Camber adjustment possible w/o camber kit

[Google]

My 3 isn't lowered but it's got enough wear on the inside of the tire. The wear is around 5/32 around 90% the tire but the inside 10% is about 3-2/32.

When I had my alignment done last year, the spec showed my camber was out -1.5 degrees on the left front and -1.0 on the right front. The alignment shop said the wear is within spec. Too me, that seems like a lot.

Any ideas what's causing the camber to be out like that? I recall years ago the dealer did something under warranty and they also did an alignment. Maybe something was messed up then?

Does anyone know the specs or tolerances for the camber on our 3s? I imagine they all should be about the same. And is it possible to tweak the suspension to help offset the high negative camber?

[Thrizzl3]

stock cambers are non adjustible.

[S.F.W.]

correction Phil. Stock front camber is adjustable, rear is not.

[Thrizzl3]

correction Phil. Stock front camber is adjustable, rear is not.

well it will most likely be the rear wheels as the front is taking on the weight of the engine and stuff..that was my first thought lol

[Google]

If it's the rear wheels, then why didn't the alignment shop give me a print-out of the rears? I only got a print out of the fronts.

I also did a seach online and I am not able to find front camber kits for the 3. but I did find camber kits for the rears.

S.F.W, are you saying the fronts are adjustable withOUT a camber kit?

[Thrizzl3]

If it's the rear wheels, then why didn't the alignment shop give me a print-out of the rears? I only got a print out of the fronts.

I also did a seach online and I am not able to find front camber kits for the 3. but I did find camber kits for the rears.

S.F.W, are you saying the fronts are adjustable withOUT a camber kit?

fronts come adjustable from factory yes.

[Google]

Thank you. Every shop I called said they are not...wtf?

[Thrizzl3]

they don't know squat lol. only the rears require aftermarket camber kits for proper adjustment

[Google]

Obviously not...I got one more place to call tomorrow. They do alignment for the cops and are very reputable so I'll try them instead of the online referrals I've been getting.

[bubba1983]

straight up, your front camber can be adjusted. Your rear camber cannot be adjusted on stock suspension, there is no camber adjusting bolt.

[S.F.W.]

Obviously not...I got one more place to call tomorrow. They do alignment for the cops and are very reputable so I'll try them instead of the online referrals I've been getting.

If you are in the GTA, I suggest going to either Agincourt Mazda(they have a very nice Hunter alignment machine), or to Alltech.

[marvin24k]

If you are in the GTA, I suggest going to either Agincourt Mazda(they have a very nice Hunter alignment machine), or to Alltech.

+1 Both of these shops will help you out. Just tell them you're from the TM3 Forum.

[Google]

Thanks guys. One more question. Just of curiousity, how is the camber adjusted on the fronts? Do you have to remove the strut?

[S.F.W.]

Thanks guys. One more question. Just of curiousity, how is the camber adjusted on the fronts? Do you have to remove the strut?

you do not need to remove the strut. There is a camber bolt.

[Google]

Thank you!!

I just dont believe how the aligment shops y rip people off into getting extra parts when doing an alignment, that's just incredible. I wish the owner's manual would mention this important bit of info.

[condor888000]

Hum, this is the first mention I've heard of this and there is no mention of it in the shop manual. Which bolt is it exactly?

[Noisy Crow]

Hum, this is the first mention I've heard of this and there is no mention of it in the shop manual. Which bolt is it exactly?

I really should be sleeping!

Front camber and caster are both adjusted by moving the top of the struts around after removing the bolts. Toe-in is adjusted by rotating the tie-rod ends.

[Noisy Crow]

Hum, this is the first mention I've heard of this and there is no mention of it in the shop manual. Which bolt is it exactly?

I really should be sleeping!

Front camber and caster are both adjusted by moving the top of the struts around after removing the bolts. Toe-in is adjusted by rotating the tie-rod ends.

Rear camber and caster are not adjustable, just toe-in via a cam-bolt. (Note: adjustable after-market camber arms are available; apparently they are a PITA to adjust though).

[Google]

On the Mazda3s is there any disadvantage in having a bit more of a camber toward the positive? Apparently, the specs for the front are -1.7 to +.3. Mine is -1.5 and one alignment shop said that that's way too much, despite what the "book" says.

[condor888000]

-1.5 is fine. Just be sure to have them set slight toe in (1/32" each side, 1/16" total), or 0 toe. If there is any toe out get it fixed immediatly.Toe is what will really wear tires quickly.

For the record, toe in is when the front of the tires are slightly closer together than the rear of the tires. Toe out is when the rears of the tires are slightly closer together. Toe out is not an alignment you want on the street, as it makes the rear of the car twitchy, and apt to step out under trail braking or if there is a sudden lift off the throttle.

Noisy Crow, indeed it is adjustable in the way you describe, but that's not a camber bolt setup. A camber bolt generally refers to another separate bolt which attaches the strut to the knuckle. When turned it adjusts the camber. This is not the setup the 3 has, although it is found in various other cars, including several different models of Civic's as well as the RSX.

In addition, there is no rear caster, caster only being measured on the steering wheels.

Bottom line. There is no camber bolt to adjust front camber. You have to monkey around with the strut, which is not the same thing. It's also something some shops don't like to do or flat out won't do. If the shop is telling him that -1.5* of rear camber is too much, then the odds of them being willing to screw with the strut seem quite low.

And really, if they don't know that it's possible to adjust in that way, I wouldn't get them to touch the strut, just in case.

I just realized no one posted the stock specs for camber, toe, or caster. I'm at school and without my last printout, but when I get home I'll post up.

[Google]

After reading Condor's post, I am even more confused. I went to one alignment shop today that told me without actually putting it on the machine but they did measure the tire with this large thing, for the lack of a better description, a large caliper. My camber is fine, within spec but I was told the toe should NOT be a 0. In my case, they tell me that I should have about 3/32rds on the fronts. The diagram I got from the alignment shop shows nothing about the rears.

[condor888000]

3/32nds is higher than I like, max spec is 4/32nds(1/8"). It will help the car track straight, but at the expense of steering response. If you're not driving hard, it's ok, its at the high end of the specs, but the important thing is it's still within spec. Most important is to get the toe equal from side to side.

Still, I say go 1/32" or 2/32" toe IN on each side, both front and rear axles. Either spec works out to being basically dead center in the specified range. 0 toe is great for steering response and rear rotation, but is not great when you're on the highway. I just drove 3 hours back home from Picton, and it's a bit annoying. Car likes to dart from side to side, you're always correcting. I like it, but it's a bit much for most.

Mazda Specs

Front
Camber: +0.3* to -1.7*
Toe: +1/8" to -1/32"

Rear
Camber: -0.3* to -2.3*
Toe: +1/8" to -1/32"

[Google]

How does one get the alignment shop to adjust the toe when it's still within spec?

[Fuman]

easy, tell them its your driving preference.
-1.5 Camber is fine. Negligible camber wear.
Bulllock city will do zero toe if you tell them you want zero toe.
Check the sticky for places to do alignment.

[condor888000]

Man...Google you need to put in your sig, in huge letters that you live in BC. Check out BCMazda3 actually, they might know a good shop which is local to you.