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sktest
04-12-2006, 10:32 AM
Hi everyone,

Does any of you think the auto head light feature harms the (aftermarket) HID? The situation is: the auto head light engaged when crossing under the bridge during day time. The HID just turn on for like 5 sec then off.

any idea??

sktest

Xenon
04-12-2006, 11:36 AM
I\'m not so concerned about going under bridges. Infinitis, Chryslers, BMWs, Mercedes... if you follow them through, they all do it.

My concern is starting the car, in dark situations. When you crank the engine to start up you car, the HID always turn on before the engine turns over. This momentarily decreases the voltage to your HIDs, making them flicker or dim. This, in my opinion, is much worse then having them come on at full power (with constant voltage, since your engine is running) and then shut off again.

Here\'s a tip when starting your car at night or in dark areas: Pull your headlight control stick towards you when you start your car (as if you were hi-beaming someone). Then turn the key and start the engine. Through some sort of weird wiring or programming, your low-beams (HIDs) WILL NOT turn on until you let go of the controls. This way, you hibeams get the undervoltage, and not you HIDs (which is fine, since they are halogen bulbs... assuming you haven\'t changed them). When you let go, your HIDs will come on, with full voltage and power.

Note this does not work if you push the control stick away from you (as to leave on your high-beams).

I\'ve already shown a few members this trick. It will save your HIDs and prolong their life compared to if you don\'t use it.

SIM SIMMA
04-12-2006, 12:21 PM
^^

Xenon scolded me when he saw me start my car without doing this first... :p

I have started doing this by habit, so hopefully it does prolong the life of my HIDS.

** Note I have gotten a dirty look when I high beamed the person across from me in a parking lot

Fuman
04-12-2006, 01:47 PM
xenon\'s right but I don\'t bother using the auto-light feature anymore.
I installed Devin\'s prolumen kit w/ relay harness, my auto-light feature works fine.
But I don\'t use the feature for the reason that xenon said.

sktest
04-12-2006, 06:43 PM
Originally posted by Xenon


I\'m not so concerned about going under bridges. Infinitis, Chryslers, BMWs, Mercedes... if you follow them through, they all do it.

My concern is starting the car, in dark situations. When you crank the engine to start up you car, the HID always turn on before the engine turns over. This momentarily decreases the voltage to your HIDs, making them flicker or dim. This, in my opinion, is much worse then having them come on at full power (with constant voltage, since your engine is running) and then shut off again.

Here\'s a tip when starting your car at night or in dark areas: Pull your headlight control stick towards you when you start your car (as if you were hi-beaming someone). Then turn the key and start the engine. Through some sort of weird wiring or programming, your low-beams (HIDs) WILL NOT turn on until you let go of the controls. This way, you hibeams get the undervoltage, and not you HIDs (which is fine, since they are halogen bulbs... assuming you haven\'t changed them). When you let go, your HIDs will come on, with full voltage and power.

Note this does not work if you push the control stick away from you (as to leave on your high-beams).

I\'ve already shown a few members this trick. It will save your HIDs and prolong their life compared to if you don\'t use it.

Thanks for the advice. :)
I\'ll do it as my practice from now on.

Xenon
04-19-2006, 10:53 PM
For the record, I do use the Auto-Light feature. There\'s some sort of satisfaction and pride when following an Audi, BMW or Mercedes under a bridge... Then their lights come on... and then so do yours.

Once I was beside an Audi, going under the 401/Yonge St. Bridge. i was turning left to get on 401, the Audi was going straight. We ended up stopped beside each other because of the light. the Audi\'s auto-light kicked in the same time mine did. He looked surprised for some reason. He had this \"Huh?\" look on his face and was staring at the HID reflection in the car in front of me...

FLIPDADY
04-20-2006, 09:04 AM
Originally posted by Xenon


Once I was beside an Audi, going under the 401/Yonge St. Bridge. i was turning left to get on 401, the Audi was going straight. We ended up stopped beside each other because of the light. the Audi\'s auto-light kicked in the same time mine did. He looked surprised for some reason. He had this \"Huh?\" look on his face and was staring at the HID reflection in the car in front of me...
He was probably wondering why he had to buy a $40,000+ car when he could have got an economical Mazda3.:p

bluntman
04-20-2006, 09:49 AM
Originally posted by Xenon




Here\'s a tip when starting your car at night or in dark areas: Pull your headlight control stick towards you when you start your car (as if you were hi-beaming someone). Then turn the key and start the engine. Through some sort of weird wiring or programming, your low-beams (HIDs) WILL NOT turn on until you let go of the controls. This way, you hibeams get the undervoltage, and not you HIDs (which is fine, since they are halogen bulbs... assuming you haven\'t changed them). When you let go, your HIDs will come on, with full voltage and power.



Going to give this a try. My car is parked in the garage and every morning my HIDs turn on (auto light feature enabled) until I reverse out of the garage.

McGuyver_3
04-20-2006, 12:14 PM
my moms murano starts up and the xenons come on and dont flicker and the same with my dads bmw 645. Non of them flicker because of comming on befor the engine starts

Xenon
04-20-2006, 01:27 PM
Originally posted by my_mazda3


my moms murano starts up and the xenons come on and dont flicker and the same with my dads bmw 645. Non of them flicker because of comming on befor the engine starts

That is because the car (both the Nissan Murano and the BMW 645i are designed to have Xenon HID systems. The ECU is smart enough not to send power to the headlights until voltage stablizes. My Dad\'s Pacifica does the same thing. His HIDs don\'t flicker because it delays the Auto-Headlight by about 20 seconds after the engine starts. It is also smart enough not to turn on the headlights if the engine isn\'t running and the key is in the ON position.

The Canadian-spec Mazda3 Auto-headlight system isn\'t designed for HIDs, which is why the US-spec doesn\'t come with an Auto-Headlight when HIDs are equipped. So since the system isn\'t designed for HIDs, undervoltage to the headlights (which stock, are halogen) doesn\'t matter, hence the system shouldn\'t need to worry about it.

That is the reason why people who put aftermarket HIDs in their Mazda3 with Auto-Headlights have to take precautions.

majic
04-20-2006, 01:38 PM
Originally posted by Xenon

The Canadian-spec Mazda3 Auto-headlight system isn\'t designed for HIDs, which is why the US-spec doesn\'t come with an Auto-Headlight when HIDs are equipped. So since the system isn\'t designed for HIDs, undervoltage to the headlights (which stock, are halogen) doesn\'t matter, hence the system shouldn\'t need to worry about it.


so how come my dad has auto lights on his 3s grand touring? :sarc

click on exterior (http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/displayPage.action?pageParameter=modelsSpecs&vehic leCode=M3S)

McGuyver_3
04-20-2006, 02:06 PM
I dont intend to insult your post but in my mazda 3 i have the hid mod and do not have the auto lights. If i leave the switch on by mistake and start the car my lights do not flicker. If you state that they flicker with the autolights then why wouldnt they flicker with my setup? Although i do have a direct connection to the battery with my hid kit






Originally posted by Xenon



Originally posted by my_mazda3


my moms murano starts up and the xenons come on and dont flicker and the same with my dads bmw 645. Non of them flicker because of comming on befor the engine starts

That is because the car (both the Nissan Murano and the BMW 645i are designed to have Xenon HID systems. The ECU is smart enough not to send power to the headlights until voltage stablizes. My Dad\'s Pacifica does the same thing. His HIDs don\'t flicker because it delays the Auto-Headlight by about 20 seconds after the engine starts. It is also smart enough not to turn on the headlights if the engine isn\'t running and the key is in the ON position.

The Canadian-spec Mazda3 Auto-headlight system isn\'t designed for HIDs, which is why the US-spec doesn\'t come with an Auto-Headlight when HIDs are equipped. So since the system isn\'t designed for HIDs, undervoltage to the headlights (which stock, are halogen) doesn\'t matter, hence the system shouldn\'t need to worry about it.

That is the reason why people who put aftermarket HIDs in their Mazda3 with Auto-Headlights have to take precautions.

Xenon
04-20-2006, 03:05 PM
If you are directly connected to the battery... your HID system will, by logic, always have full power since it has a direct connection.

I don\'t think autolight has a direct connection. It has to go through some sort of controller what tells the ECU when to send power and when not to.

I\'m not a electronics specialist on the Mazda3, and I\'m not saying I\'m right. I just know, from experience, that using Auto-Light, there is a drop in available power to the etire headlight system. I also know taht undervoltage to an electronic discharge system, like HIDs can damage the system. And I was just simply giving fellow Mazda3 owners an easy bypass to the problem.

As for Majic\'s post, I read on M3F that the US-Spec Auto-Headlight system was changed for 2006 to adapt for the HID. However, since 2006 Canadian models still don\'t come with HIDs, we don\'t get the hardware upgrade.

MajesticBlueNTO
04-20-2006, 09:55 PM
Originally posted by bluntman



Originally posted by Xenon




Here\'s a tip when starting your car at night or in dark areas: Pull your headlight control stick towards you when you start your car (as if you were hi-beaming someone). Then turn the key and start the engine. Through some sort of weird wiring or programming, your low-beams (HIDs) WILL NOT turn on until you let go of the controls. This way, you hibeams get the undervoltage, and not you HIDs (which is fine, since they are halogen bulbs... assuming you haven\'t changed them). When you let go, your HIDs will come on, with full voltage and power.



Going to give this a try. My car is parked in the garage and every morning my HIDs turn on (auto light feature enabled) until I reverse out of the garage.

if your HIDs were installed with a relay that is triggered by the parking lights, the method described by Xenon won\'t work.

reason being, the HIDs are no longer triggered by the Lowbeam wire, which cuts out when flashing the highbeams.

sktest
04-21-2006, 12:05 PM
Originally posted by MajesticBlueN



Originally posted by bluntman



Originally posted by Xenon




Here\'s a tip when starting your car at night or in dark areas: Pull your headlight control stick towards you when you start your car (as if you were hi-beaming someone). Then turn the key and start the engine. Through some sort of weird wiring or programming, your low-beams (HIDs) WILL NOT turn on until you let go of the controls. This way, you hibeams get the undervoltage, and not you HIDs (which is fine, since they are halogen bulbs... assuming you haven\'t changed them). When you let go, your HIDs will come on, with full voltage and power.



Going to give this a try. My car is parked in the garage and every morning my HIDs turn on (auto light feature enabled) until I reverse out of the garage.

if your HIDs were installed with a relay that is triggered by the parking lights, the method described by Xenon won\'t work.

reason being, the HIDs are no longer triggered by the Lowbeam wire, which cuts out when flashing the highbeams.

Hi MajesticBlueN,

The method that Xenon provided works to me. My HID is triggered by the parking light and has a relay with it.

Does anyone has a similar HID config but the method does not compromise?

Xenon
04-21-2006, 02:13 PM
A note, When you pull the high beam before starting he car... the entire headlight system, including the parking lights, shouldn\'t come on untl you release the headlight controls. Hence the process works.

I have my trigger hooked up to the parking lights.

M Cube
06-15-2006, 02:13 PM
I have aftermarket HID in my Mazda3 as well. Isn\'t it simplier by just turning your auto-on feature off before starting your car?

I installed mine long before the \"DRL bypass trick\" exist so my mechanic switch the fog light and low beam power output to make it work. Therefore my DRL is link to the fog light and the fog light switch activates the low beam (HID)

Xenon
06-15-2006, 09:12 PM
Originally posted by M Cube


I have aftermarket HID in my Mazda3 as well. Isn\'t it simplier by just turning your auto-on feature off before starting your car?


Not if you are like me and turn off the car with the switch in AUTO. There\'s no point in turning the switch all the way back to Off, since you will be turning on the headlights on your way to do that anyways. (Switch would go from AUTO > ON > Parking Lights > OFF)

autobuff
01-27-2007, 07:15 PM
I\'m not so concerned about going under bridges. Infinitis, Chryslers, BMWs, Mercedes... if you follow them through, they all do it.

My concern is starting the car, in dark situations. When you crank the engine to start up you car, the HID always turn on before the engine turns over. This momentarily decreases the voltage to your HIDs, making them flicker or dim. This, in my opinion, is much worse then having them come on at full power (with constant voltage, since your engine is running) and then shut off again.

Here\'s a tip when starting your car at night or in dark areas: Pull your headlight control stick towards you when you start your car (as if you were hi-beaming someone). Then turn the key and start the engine. Through some sort of weird wiring or programming, your low-beams (HIDs) WILL NOT turn on until you let go of the controls. This way, you hibeams get the undervoltage, and not you HIDs (which is fine, since they are halogen bulbs... assuming you haven\'t changed them). When you let go, your HIDs will come on, with full voltage and power.

Note this does not work if you push the control stick away from you (as to leave on your high-beams).

I\'ve already shown a few members this trick. It will save your HIDs and prolong their life compared to if you don\'t use it.


I am planning on getting a hid kit myself and was wondering what about pulling the hand brake up, (when starting the car) not sure if that would work cause I don't know how the kits are wired up

Cheers
Chris

majic
01-28-2007, 01:51 AM
I am planning on getting a hid kit myself and was wondering what about pulling the hand brake up, (when starting the car) not sure if that would work cause I don't know how the kits are wired up

Cheers
Chris

if i understand correctly, it would work (i did that for a while before i got my DRL bypass).. but it's a PITA and you'll forget the odd time here and there.. just do the DRLs yourself.. it's very easy... or take it to a shop and they'll install it and wire it up properly..

Mazda3_06
01-30-2007, 10:17 PM
i dont know about the rest of you guys but dont you put your hand brakes up when you park your car?
i know that i do

majic
01-30-2007, 11:05 PM
the parking brake is a bandaid solution.. just disable the DRLs and you won't have to remember it all the time

Xenon
01-31-2007, 04:44 PM
I agree. The fact that you may overpull the handbrake and start driving around with the brakes constantly applied would be a very bad thing.

queens49
02-06-2007, 09:56 AM
Hey,
I just installed HIDs from Devin over the weekend, and they look great. It may just be me, but the driver side bulb looks slightly more yellow compared to the passenger side.

Anyway, I have a question about the auto light. I've installed the HID's directly to the battery w/ the signal light as the signal to turn the HID's on. In previous installation methods, you said you had to keep them off or turn on the high beams when starting to prevent the HIDs from flickering when starting the car. Do I need to do this with the way I installed my HIDs?

Thanks

MPS
02-06-2007, 10:04 AM
.........



Hey,
I just installed HIDs from Devin over the weekend, and they look great. It may just be me, but the driver side bulb looks slightly more yellow compared to the passenger side.

FLIPDADY
02-06-2007, 10:53 AM
Hey,
I just installed HIDs from Devin over the weekend, and they look great. It may just be me, but the driver side bulb looks slightly more yellow compared to the passenger side.

Check both bulbs and make sure they are the same temperature.

queens49
02-06-2007, 11:06 AM
sounds like 1 more victim of fake bulbs

What?!? Please say you are kidding. I got the Prolumen kit from Devin, thinking it was a safe bet since, the majority of users on the forums have the kits.
It's not a major difference, but I notice it. I'll try to take photos of it.

queens49
02-06-2007, 11:08 AM
Check both bulbs and make sure they are the same temperature.

I remember your post and how you had a 6k and a 8k bulb, so I made sure to check that both bulbs said 5k on them before installing them.

MPS
02-06-2007, 11:16 AM
please take pick of the bulb and the wires on the bulb

queens49
02-06-2007, 11:23 AM
please take pick of the bulb and the wires on the bulb

This is the exact kit that I got,

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=16289

MPS
02-06-2007, 11:24 AM
.............

Xenon
02-06-2007, 02:47 PM
Firstly there is an "burn in" period for HIDs. Generally this is the first 10-20 hours the bulb is on. It takes time for the bulb to reach it's true colour. Generally if you drive an hour a day, at night, your burn in period will be up in about 2 weeks. Most colour differences would be corrected by then. Take note, that it is normal to have HID bulbs slowly change colour over time. Higher quality bulbs do this, but at a slower rate than the lower quality ones. For example. my HIDs have gone from more of a blueish tinge to a white/purple/blue tinge over time. If you have ever seen the first generation Acura 3.2 TL, many of their HIDs are now pinkish, instead of the usual bluish/white.

Secondly, you have to make sure the bulb is seated correctly. Although Devin has done many installs, no one is perfect. Check to make sure the bulb is seating correctly, and the holding clip is securely fastened. Signs of a mis-seated bulb are usually one light is brighter than the other, cutoff is distorted, odd colour difference around the cutoff.

Lastly, if both of those cases do not happen, you may have faulty equipment. Either bulbs are different temperatures, or either your igniter or ballast is defective. Most HID kits have at least a one year warranty. Make sure you get any defective equipment replaced within that time period.

queens49
02-06-2007, 03:24 PM
Firstly there is an "burn in" period for HIDs. Generally this is the first 10-20 hours the bulb is on. It takes time for the bulb to reach it's true colour. Generally if you drive an hour a day, at night, your burn in period will be up in about 2 weeks. Most colour differences would be corrected by then. Take note, that it is normal to have HID bulbs slowly change colour over time. Higher quality bulbs do this, but at a slower rate than the lower quality ones. For example. my HIDs have gone from more of a blueish tinge to a white/purple/blue tinge over time. If you have ever seen the first generation Acura 3.2 TL, many of their HIDs are now pinkish, instead of the usual bluish/white.

Secondly, you have to make sure the bulb is seated correctly. Although Devin has done many installs, no one is perfect. Check to make sure the bulb is seating correctly, and the holding clip is securely fastened. Signs of a mis-seated bulb are usually one light is brighter than the other, cutoff is distorted, odd colour difference around the cutoff.

Lastly, if both of those cases do not happen, you may have faulty equipment. Either bulbs are different temperatures, or either your igniter or ballast is defective. Most HID kits have at least a one year warranty. Make sure you get any defective equipment replaced within that time period.

I'll give them a week or so for the "burn in" to see if that helps any. I didn't have Devin do my install. I did it /w a friend and it took almost 3 hours to do, hiding everything really well. All the retention clips are in securely, and I'm pretty sure they are seated properly. Since I don't have any of the symptoms of a mis-seated bulb that you have suggested. They are about the same intensity, just the driver side bulb doesn't look as white as the passenger side when you look at the light against the wall.

FLIPDADY
02-06-2007, 06:08 PM
I believe chuckie is running the same 5000k bulb. One side seems weaker than the other.

queens49
02-06-2007, 11:26 PM
Ok, pictures seem to be out. Stupid camera phone can't seem to take proper pictures of the headlights. Sitting inside the car, the light against the fence looks fine, but the camera just takes a blur. I talked w/ the guy who helped me install and he does agree that the driver side headlight is a shade of yellow compared to the passenger side.

Xenon
02-07-2007, 02:40 AM
I'll give them a week or so for the "burn in" to see if that helps any. I didn't have Devin do my install. I did it /w a friend and it took almost 3 hours to do, hiding everything really well. All the retention clips are in securely, and I'm pretty sure they are seated properly. Since I don't have any of the symptoms of a mis-seated bulb that you have suggested. They are about the same intensity, just the driver side bulb doesn't look as white as the passenger side when you look at the light against the wall.

Oops, sorry, i was under the impression that Devin did your install. My bad.

WLS ZMZM
06-18-2007, 05:46 PM
hmmm it seems as though you did a direct re & re. The mazda 3 signals are messed from the DRL, like majic said the best thing to do is bypass the DRL module, not very hard. That is why your HID's are flickering, as the car doesn't send it a constant 12v the DRL's voltage varies. Really easy to bypass the DRL, took me more time to fiddle with the bulbs in seating them properly. As for the auto part of them, even at night when i'm starting my car they don't flicker... they just take the few seconds to warm up.... and then they are fine.... as for the ebrake... if your driving a 5spd you should be using it anyways..... and as for driving with it on... ummmmm if you don't see the big red exclamation point... maybe you shouldn't be driving... besides the car would be bucking like crazy and making all different kinds of noises!

cwp_sedan
08-28-2007, 05:44 PM
I want to bring this back to see what people are doing, if they are doing anything at all.

There is also another way to use the Auto lights and still have the HIDs intact while still prolonging the life of them. I found that before you start the car, if the lights are set to auto and you turn the key to the 'ON' position, the lights will come on and then turn the key back to 'OFF'. Then start the car. The lights will delay slightly coming on and there won't be any voltage spikes/drops at all. This was like this on my '07, so I don't know if it is setu up the same for previous years. The only thing I find hard is that I sometimes forget it's in AUTO and just start the car. :( That's why I usually just turn them off.

sp3GT
08-28-2007, 10:01 PM
I use to leave it on the Auto light but I found that my driver side one doesn't come on right away when I do that so I just turn them off now.

EvilDeadFan
08-29-2007, 12:25 PM
Of course, if you set the parking brake, and then start the car (for you automatic drivers.... :P ) then it'll kill the headlights until you take it off... problem solved. ;)

cwp_sedan
08-29-2007, 12:43 PM
^ Not true that I can recall. It only disables the DRLs when they are activated, not the HIDs at night/dark area.

tony_mz3
08-31-2007, 12:15 PM
Why worry???
I have lifetime warranty on my HID kit.

Never heard of flickering before with OEM. Aftermarket maybe due to error in installation.