Intake Resonator replaced (pics inside)

[Skarbro]

UPDATED: Version 2 of this mod can be found in this post below. (http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showpost.php?p=180236&postcount=14)

Inspired by this post (http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=46560.msg777646#msg777646), I modified my stock intake. Works well! Do you guys think I've positioned it too close to the fender vents? Here are the pics...

I used a 3" coupler, a 3" 90 degree bend and a 3" 45 degree bend.
http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/4408/dsc00169ps6.jpg

http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/1908/dsc00171ja9.jpg

It's positioned near the vents in the fender well.
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/2995/dsc00170xw6.jpg

Picture from the outside.
http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/8878/dsc00172sk5.jpg

Shot from above. It points toward the fender.
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/9928/dsc00174tr8.jpg

I also removed the after-filter intake resonator and capped it off.
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/7771/dsc00173or4.jpg

Shot of the stock resonators
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/4956/dsc00175jq6.jpg

[m_a_t_r_i_x]

pardon the ignorance and my laziness in searching about this....but what does this mod do to your car? im not diggin having a pvc pipe inside the engine bay, looks weird and ugly...

[FLIPDADY]

It's not all about how the system looks but the function. Skarbro has a K&N drop-in filter and looks like he wanted a direct air flow into it. I too have a set up like this minus the pvc pipe which is a great idea.(off to Home Depot tomorrow) :)

So that's what you were doing under your car today.

[KenYork]

I don't know about having the opening towards the fender vents. Lots of water thrown around there when wet. Probably best to have the pipe opening close to where the resonator opening was.



btw.. looks good.

[Skarbro]

pardon the ignorance and my laziness in searching about this....but what does this mod do to your car? im not diggin having a pvc pipe inside the engine bay, looks weird and ugly...

Well yes it looks ugly, but you can't see it at all in the engine bay with everything back together (the battery air intake covers up everything.) Besides I could give a rat's ass what it looks like. :) What does it do? Eliminates the restrictive stock resonators and makes the airflow way more efficient.


So that's what you were doing under your car today.
Heh.. I was wondering if you noticed the car up on ramps.


I don't know about having the opening towards the fender vents. Lots of water thrown around there when wet. Probably best to have the pipe opening close to where the resonator opening was.
Thanks for the input. I was wondering the same thing. I highly doubt water will make it up to the filter though - although it is certainly possible that drops will - and if I drive through wet mud, then that's possible as well. However, don't aftermarket CAI's essentially put the filter in the same spot? The nice thing about this install is that I can change it if I want very easily. I welcome more input.

[FLIPDADY]

I thought you were doing another oil change. lol

Maybe put a screen door mesh at the pipe opening? I've seen it done on some DIY ram air set-ups.

[sp3GT]

It might be just a bit too close to the vent, I installed my Fujita 2 days ago and the filter is not that close.
I kinda did this before I got my fujita except mine wasn't as great as yours, but the sound it produces is kinda similar to an aftermarket CAI.

[majic]

how's the butt dyno? :chuckle

[cwp_sedan]

Holy crap that's a big resonator. Did it make a difference at all with the resonator removed? Sound/performace any better? I'm not expecting much but ya never know. I would maybe rotate you PVC tubing to point down so that it wouldn't be as direct access to the vents, or just make it a little shorter.

Overall looks good!

[Skarbro]

I thought you were doing another oil change. lol

LOL I did change the oil as well. :)


It might be just a bit too close to the vent, I installed my Fujita 2 days ago and the filter is not that close.
I kinda did this before I got my fujita except mine wasn't as great as yours, but the sound it produces is kinda similar to an aftermarket CAI.
Yeah I'm going to go and adjust it again so that it isn't pointing directly at the vent. Maybe I'll leave it in relatively the same spot, but pointed away from it.


how's the butt dyno?
Heh... Well I only took it for a spin around the block. It feels like its pulling better with no loss of low end torque. I still have to reset the ECU though. I'll be doing that today.


Holy crap that's a big resonator. Did it make a difference at all with the resonator removed? Sound/performace any better? I'm not expecting much but ya never know. I would maybe rotate you PVC tubing to point down so that it wouldn't be as direct access to the vents, or just make it a little shorter.
It pulls a little better according to the butt-dyno. The sound - I'm not really sure because my car already growls because of the Street Unit mount. I have to take it on the highway. And yeah you and I have the same idea. I'm going to point it in a different direction. It shouldn't impede the airflow too much by doing that.

[MazdaTree]

The sound - I'm not really sure because my car already growls because of the Street Unit mount.

It adds a growl?

are you sure the growl isn't from your resonator being removed?

[sp3GT]

The growl should be from the resonator when I had mine removed, it sounded like I had an intake.

[3GFX]

I'm impressed, for relatively little money you've got an efficient airbox. Its still a little restrictive but so much better than stock. Very clean job to Skarbro. I know you the motor mounts will increase noise, but I'm sure if you listen closely, you can hear the intake sucking air in with a tap of the gas. I think it would sounds good, deep.

I think it's a little close to the fender, but in all honesty you should drill a hole or something at the elbow so that if water by chance gets in, it could just drain right out.

[Skarbro]

Version 2!

I changed it around to make it safer. I also reset the ECU this time. The thing pulls great! I'm very satisfied. Total cost ~$20. :) Pics...

I used a second 45 bend.
http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/9654/dsc00176oa4.jpg

http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/1995/dsc00177db3.jpg

http://img240.imageshack.us/img240/3186/dsc00178tj6.jpg

I drilled a hole for drainage this time. (3GFX - honestly I did it before seeing your post! :) )
http://img240.imageshack.us/img240/6416/dsc00179kd5.jpg

Now it points in a safer direction - away from the fender vents
http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/5930/dsc00180jj7.jpg

http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/8674/dsc00183yv4.jpg

Shot from above
http://img127.imageshack.us/img127/746/dsc00184vo4.jpg

And a shot of my engine. Except for the hood props, everything looks bone stock.
http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/692/dsc00185cr5.jpg

[-RJ3-]

NiceWork Skarbro,

I'm gonna get shot for this question... What if you put a cone at the end of your pipe and remove the K&N, does it act the same, as a CAI?

I need to clean my CAI myself.

[Skarbro]

NiceWork Skarbro,

I'm gonna get shot for this question... What if you put a cone at the end of your pipe and remove the K&N, does it act the same, as a CAI?

I need to clean my CAI myself.

Well technically it is a CAI. ;) But to answer your question - I don't think it would make a difference at all since the air still has to go through the stock airbox, which is the only real thing left that is restrictive. I would have to eliminate the stock airbox to get any further improvement.

[garboui]

i did the same thing to mine last summer. after taking off the resonator and driving around to HD with the open airbox it was nice and loud and growly but was groany on the highway. at HD i picked up the rubber coupler and one 90deg elbow and about 8" of pipe.

the open pipe sits right in front of the vents. i have had no problem with water or snow even in storms; never had a cel from it. because theres no filter there water cant be trapped and accumulated.

one interesting thing that happened was that as soon as i added the elbow and the pipe it went down to being almost as quiet as stock again. the butt duno approves though, esp for highway acceleration.

[azn_outlaw]

Nice sleeper style intake......

to introduce or maximize more air flow....shall I suggest a BpI flow stack..

oh hold on a minute just like this...

*NOTE* Teaser Pic...(I have more pics of it on my car but stay tuned)

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/210/498337973_4b79b88c4e.jpg

Great idea and excellent job with the intake...

[KenYork]

I also removed the after-filter intake resonator and capped it off.
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/7771/dsc00173or4.jpg


Is that a 1 1/2" or 2" cap?

[Skarbro]

1 1/2" cap.

[KenYork]

thanks

[Wild Weasel]

I seem to have missed this thread. :)

So now that it's been a couple days, do you still think it's the mount that's giving you the noise or do you think it's a little louder under the hood now?

[Skarbro]

I guess it's a little louder. But 80-90% of the noise is because of the mount.

[majic]

I guess it's a little louder. But 80-90% of the noise is because of the mount.

HTF does a mount make noise??!?!! :loco

[vblanche]

nice...I'd like to do the same but I have no tool here (just one screw driver LOL)...and what do you need except pvc parts? where would I have to bring my car to do similar installation?

anyone interested to set up this great CAI on my car? LOL

thanks

PS: is the process reversible?

[cwp_sedan]

nice...I'd like to do the same but I have no tool here (just one screw driver LOL)...and what do you need except pvc parts? where would I have to bring my car to do similar installation?

anyone interested to set up this great CAI on my car? LOL

thanks

PS: is the process reversible?

All you are doing is unbolting the stock resonator and adding some pvc piping off the airbox using clamps. No cutting or extreme modification is required and is 100% reversible. :)

[vblanche]

thanks :) , except for the little hole for drainage...:chuckle

[Skarbro]

HTF does a mount make noise??!?!! :loco
Have you ever been in a car with a stiffer aftermarket engine mount? The vibrations (and sound) that would be normally dampened by the soft stock rubber mount are no longer dampened as much with the new stiffer mount. It's not the mount itself that makes the noise - but the engine, which is no longer dampened as much. :)

[KenYork]

Thanks Scarboro, just finished this mod. There's a definitely a gain in power since the car doesn't feel sluggish anymore with the weight of the 17's I have on. Slightly louder too.

[Skarbro]

Thanks Scarboro, just finished this mod. There's a definitely a gain in power since the car doesn't feel sluggish anymore with the weight of the 17's I have on. Slightly louder too.

Hey glad to hear it worked well for you also. :)

[vblanche]

ok...so I can get these PVC pieces at Home depot, right?

anyone would be ok to lend me a drill??

[Skarbro]

Yup. Everything was bought at the Ho-po.

[vblanche]

so, basically, you get these 3 PVC pieces, glue them as wanted, put in place...and that's it...

Do you need any other mod? will it work with stock engine? filter?

[vblanche]

Please, if any of you guys is doing this mod soon, could I come and have a look how you're doing it?

many thanks

[KenYork]

don't really need to glue since the pieces fit snugly together. You will also need a 3" rubber coupling to connect the pipe to the air box. Total cost should be about $20~ plus tax. The coupling is just under $10, while the other pieces are between $3-4 each.

Just follow Scarboro's pics.
the pipe should look like this:
http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/1995/dsc00177db3.jpg
look at post #14 for other pictures to help you install.
The hardest part is removing the resonator.

[Skarbro]

Yeah the pieces fit very snuggly. I did use a little super glue though as a backup just in case it wants to loosen up in extreme temperatures or rough terrain.

And like KenYork said, the hardest part is removing the resonator, which isn't hard at all - there are other threads on how to do this.

[vblanche]

You will also need a 3" rubber coupling to connect the pipe to the air box.

Do you mean that black part (red circle)?

http://img455.imageshack.us/img455/8099/dsc00180jj7lx1.jpg

and why not put nothing?

[-RJ3-]

Don't forget the cap on this picture:

http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/7771/dsc00173or4.jpg

[vblanche]

wanted to ask about that and forgot...thanks. where do I get such a cap?

[-RJ3-]

HO-PO!!! lol

[vblanche]

I also reset the ECU this time.

what about that?

[Chuckie]

hmm i should do something like that..

[FLIPDADY]

I think this should be a sticky!

Will try this on the weekend.

[KenYork]

Chuckie.. anytime...

vblanche post37: it keeps the pipe connected to the airbox with those clamps... you could do without if you can find a way to keep em together.

post 39: yep ho-po!

post 41: you don't have to.. i didn't.

[vblanche]

so basically ho-po will provide me everything...but who is this guy? LOL

what's the purpose of ECU reset?

KenYork, Skarbro, did you remove the front bumper?

[KenYork]

I think resetting the ECU allows it to adapt better to the new airflow.

[Wild Weasel]

The car will lean on its own how to deal with the new airflow parameters... but resetting the ECU will jump-start that process. Just means unhooking the battery for some period of time and then hooking it back up.

[Skarbro]

Removing the bumper is not necessary - but will make removing the stock resonator a little easier.

And just like Weas said - resetting the ECU is easy. Just disconnect the battery (ONLY DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE CABLE - DO NOT REMOVE THE POSITIVE) for like 30 minutes and you're good to go.

Oh and don't forget to write down your radio settings. :)

[vblanche]

thanks

[Walrus]

Well, I just did it tonight, but of course I had to do it differently. I used a 3" to 4" rubber coupler, 4" 90deg elbow, 4" 45deg spigot elbow.

Why 4"? Because if 3" is big, 4" is huge!
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y27/WalrusWalrus/DSCF0220.jpg

I pointed it half way between the louvers on the wheel well splash shield, and the fog light.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y27/WalrusWalrus/DSCF0221.jpg

Pic from above:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y27/WalrusWalrus/DSCF0222.jpg

3"-4" rubber coupler - $10.99
4" 90deg - $4.85
4" 45deg spigot - $5.96

[vblanche]

you guys have all tools, etc... to do these mods...I don't :blush . anyway, still want to try...

Also, will this "CAI" stay in place? no risk of detachment?

What happens with these parts in red? gone?

http://img108.imageshack.us/img108/8952/b3e0113w104li2.png

and what should I do with these connectors (red circle)
http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/4161/cimg1040ox6.jpg

[-RJ3-]

Vblanche, If you take the above circled pics, you end up making a true CAI, but you need to have the MAF sensor intact, and the blue tube that connects to the stock intake box. Also, seeing that the airbox is also a question, you need to have a cone at the end of your intake.

If you want to get rid of the airbox, my suggestion is to not remove #2 circled diagram, and add a cone at the end of your pipe.

Hope this helps you out

[Walrus]

No. You are only removing items 4 and 8.

[sp3GT]

You don't touch anything you see when you open the hood genearly except you take out 4 and replace it with a cap.
Then after that you just gotta take out the resonator, I think skarbro replaced his OEM filter with a K&N drop-in so if you don't plan to get a real CAI you should prob get one of those too.

[Skarbro]

Yeah I only got rid of items 4 & 8 which are the intake resonators. Everything else is intact. And yes I recommend getting a K&N drop-in filter, although I'm sure you can get away with the regular filter.

Vblanche - The parts are solid. I didn't even need to put any extra support because the piping is really light and the coupler is really strong.

Walrus - Looks great! I can't help feeling that there is a phallic notion in there somewhere. And the fact that you have a "Woody's" decal on your toolbox doesn't help either. LOL

[vblanche]

Now, I'm a bit confused...where did you connect the PVC pieces? on #7 instead of #8? (red circle image below)

LOL...thought it was on #9...because of installation of CAI (fujita, etc...)

http://img452.imageshack.us/img452/1153/airintakesys2cn3.png

[Skarbro]

Now, I'm a bit confused...where did you connect the PVC pieces? on #7 instead of #8? (red circle image below)

LOL...thought it was on #9...



You're removing #8 and connecting the 3" coupler to #7 where your red oval is. Essentially you are replacing #8 with the new piping.

[vblanche]

ok...thanks.

[cwp_sedan]

Now, I'm a bit confused...where did you connect the PVC pieces? on #7 instead of #8? (red circle image below)

LOL...thought it was on #9...



It would be connected to #8. You aren't replacing the filter box and stock tubing connected to the throttle body. You are only replacing the stock resonator (#8) with some PVC tubing. The PVC connects to #7. You would also be removing #4 completely and capping it off as well.

Yeah what he said...lol

[vblanche]

it doesn't seem easy w/o removing the bumper...

[Zubbie]

I wish I woulda tried something like this before I got my intake.

[KenYork]

it doesn't seem easy w/o removing the bumper...

It takes a bit of work to get it out just because of the bolt locations.

[sp3GT]

I wish I woulda tried something like this before I got my intake.

Zubby, the fujita CAI is worth it. This just isn't the same.

[Zubbie]

Zubby, the fujita CAI is worth it. This just isn't the same.

Oh I know, I love it...
But I wish I woulda tried this just to see the difference it makes

[queens49]

There's a link on M3F where someone took out the resonator and ran it on the dyno, and there was a decline in HP and torque. The guy dyno'd his car multiple times with different things added/removed.

[Skarbro]

Well this is a little more than just removing the resonator. But it would be best to get dyno comparisons.

BTW, I can't find the link on the other board. Do you have it?

[vblanche]

BTW, I can't find the link on the other board. Do you have it?
+1

[sp3GT]

There's a link on M3F where someone took out the resonator and ran it on the dyno, and there was a decline in HP and torque. The guy dyno'd his car multiple times with different things added/removed.

I actually wouldn't be suprised, before I got the Mazda 3 I had a civic si (05) and it loses power after resonator is removed.

[Gizzmo_jr]

It can't be a serious amount, and my K&N has got to help somewhat. If anything what is lost is gained? For me, while i'm working in the engine...the sound without the resonator is totally worth it. Can't knock a free mod:bana

[KenYork]

When I first removed the resonator I felt the loss in power as well. When I saw Skarbro post this mod up I figured this may work. Just like someone mentioned(I don't remember who), look at how a retail CAI is shaped and designed. The opening(filter) is in a location of the engine compartment where cooler air resides(about where the resonator opening is), as opposed to where the airbox opening is (next to the engine).

From where i look at this, it's not much different from a retail CAI just that it has the filter in a different location.

[Skarbro]

I just got some limited generic information from a friend that works with engineers who design intake systems for cars. Here's what he told me:


So, I just spoke to one of our Senior Engineers who has been working with ******* for 7 years.

Resonating air does NOT improve airflow. The resonators are mainly there for noise reduction purposes. If you ripped out your stock system and just left the drop in filter you would actually have a decrease in air flow. By replacing the stock AIS system with a smooth pipe (CAI) as we all know you will obviously increase air flow, but increase engien sound as well.

Now, this is a very general statement and I'm sure it's not true for all applications. But it it interesting info nevertheless.

[queens49]

Well this is a little more than just removing the resonator. But it would be best to get dyno comparisons.

BTW, I can't find the link on the other board. Do you have it?

It's in this thread, this guy did a lot of dyno runs with different things.

http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=56566

[Walrus]

Yeah but, he removed the resonator, and didn't put something on like we are doing to bring in the cold air.

[Skarbro]

Awesome. Thanks for the link. Here's his post. The key part that we're interested in is in red:


I was a bit surprised at the results. Not only did we see a loss in low-end torque as many predicted (actually below about 1360 there's a HUGE drop in torque and whp, but we hardly care about that low of a RPM range for racing applications) but we actually saw a loss in peak whp as well (about 123 vs 126 stock)! The reason for this is pretty simple though. While you are removing some airflow restrictions, you're also pulling much hotter air as verified by the IAT sensor readings I took during the session. If you take a look at how the stock intake is setup, it actually pulls cool air from behind the headlights where other CAIs sit. If you look at the right side of the lower grill, there's small air deflector which defects the cooler outside air towards this area, hence why our cars are perfectly setup for CAIs. There is no performance benefit to be made from just removing the stock resonator and keeping the stock intake – simple as that. It just sounds cooler. Now get over it. http://www.fmvperformance.com/forum_items/Smileys/default/icon_smile.gif

This is good news for my mod. :)

[KenYork]

Yep.. i knew i read that somewhere.

[Skarbro]

Well I've got ideas for version 3 (yes there will be a version 3).

There is a large opening that channels air into the fender that is located at the end of the front grille. This seems to be the primary source of fresh air. The vent openings in the fenderliner act as air extractors - which would be funnelling air OUT of the fender from two locations - the fresh air duct in the grille and the engine (so pointing the intake away from the fender vents is the better way to do this). Obviously, we would like to isolate the cool air coming from the front and avoid the warm air from the engine. So I'm going to make the next one longer and pointed to the front opening. The grille opening a really good design from what I can see from outside the car, so I'm not worried at all about water getting in there.

Now, version 2 is already pointed in the right direction and works pretty damn well. Maybe I can get it to work a little better with version 3? Maybe another 1-2 hp? We'll see. The nice thing about this is that the parts are so freaking cheap.

Right now, I'm working on a lot of other projects around the house. I'll try to work on this soon though. Maybe as soon as this weekend if I'm lucky.

[3GFX]

lol, just make a dang ram air from the fog light!!!!

[Skarbro]

LOL.

Well I ran into a snag with the routing to the vent. I'm probably going to abondon Version 3. :) V2 works pretty well anyway.

[3GFX]

You should try a tri-opening T-joint at the end of the intake so you'd have an opening in the front, the back, and a flow through.

Speed holes anyone?

[Wild Weasel]

That would be awesome. You'd get a ram air effect no matter which direction you were going! :bana

:chuckle

[Walrus]

Skarbro, I just replaced the 4" stuff I had with 3". The 4" seemed boggy when starting out in 1st. Now with the 3", the torque is back. But.. at higher RPMs it doesn't seem as fast now.

Anyhow, I looked and saw what you were talking about with the fresh air channel. The funny thing is, the stock horn is right in the middle of it. So, I removed it, and remounted it up front beside the hood latch, and added a low tone horn while I was at it. The stock horn was too wimpy.

Now with the horn out of the way, I used 2 3" 90deg elbows, a 3" rubber coupling at the airbox, and a 3" pvc coupling at the other end of the elbows to extend the end of it into the fresh air channel a little bit. The first 90deg attached to the airbox is pointed sideways to the driver's side, and slightly to the front a little. The second is pointed directly into the air channel, with the coupling on the end to extend into the channel.

[Skarbro]

Skarbro, I just replaced the 4" stuff I had with 3". The 4" seemed boggy when starting out in 1st. Now with the 3", the torque is back. But.. at higher RPMs it doesn't seem as fast now.

Anyhow, I looked and saw what you were talking about with the fresh air channel. The funny thing is, the stock horn is right in the middle of it. So, I removed it, and remounted it up front beside the hood latch, and added a low tone horn while I was at it. The stock horn was too wimpy.

Now with the horn out of the way, I used 2 3" 90deg elbows, a 3" rubber coupling at the airbox, and a 3" pvc coupling at the other end of the elbows to extend the end of it into the fresh air channel a little bit. The first 90deg attached to the airbox is pointed sideways to the driver's side, and slightly to the front a little. The second is pointed directly into the air channel, with the coupling on the end to extend into the channel.

Cool. What are your impressions?

[rcd001]

Try to adjust the pipe intake so it faces the ground a little more and with a sawzall, cut in at 30 degree angle and file smooth. You will notice a huge increase in suction.

By having it like that facing out, you will actually create a bit a of "wind sheild" that will prevent air from entering it.

We use this technique a lot at the refinery. Did a test with 30 PSI steam and the results were impressive. It is old school, but works well.

If you want to get fancy, go to to plumbing store and purchase PVC pipe, what you have is an ABS mix. The pressure rated has a smoother inside.

[Kevin@nextmod]

Finally got time to read all over this 4 page thread. This seems very interesting and wants me to take my CAI out. I find that my intake causes slow response to the engine. And of course low end torque.
Scarboro, have you sat in another car with CAI? if you do, do you feel the difference between yours and the car with the CAI? I'm really looking to take my intake out and replace it with an airbox, but the autoexe one is too expensive.

[Skarbro]

Finally got time to read all over this 4 page thread. This seems very interesting and wants me to take my CAI out. I find that my intake causes slow response to the engine. And of course low end torque.
Scarboro, have you sat in another car with CAI? if you do, do you feel the difference between yours and the car with the CAI? I'm really looking to take my intake out and replace it with an airbox, but the autoexe one is too expensive.
Not another 3. I would like to feel it out witha proper CAI. Of course the best test would be to dyno all this stuff and compare to stock.

[sp3GT]

I guess I can say i've done both, before I got my Fujita I was running w/o resonator and a pipe sticking out of the stock airbox. The CAI pulls much harder I'd say. Removing the resonator seems more of a sound mod.

[KenYork]

I guess I can say i've done both, before I got my Fujita I was running w/o resonator and a pipe sticking out of the stock airbox. The CAI pulls much harder I'd say. Removing the resonator seems more of a sound mod.

i've removed the resonator before too.. but adding the pipe makes a big difference.

[sp3GT]

I had a pipe but just not as long as skarbro's.

[KenYork]

I had a pipe but just not as long as skarbro's.

so you've compared pipes :chuckle

[Skarbro]

Heh... Mines longer than yours. :D

[sp3GT]

Haha, Mines more then twice as long.

[rcd001]

I find the throtle response is much improved with Injen CAI. I appreciate it most when I have the AC on and I have to stop the car on a hill (intersection). Before the CAI, it used to sound like it was dying but now it performs a lot better.

I do find it lacking with the AC, but it is a 4 cylinder car.

Also noticed I can now go 580 Km/tank Vs 500KM which is huge for me. My driving is 98% city and 2% highway on average. I run high test fuel only.

[Gizzmo_jr]

Oddly enough, I was running with nothing on the bottom and thoroughly enjoyed the deep noise growling from under my hood. Was at Home Depot yesterday for work, so I picked up the necessary pipes to complete the PVC CAI.

Finished it today after work and what the heck? It's quiet now, external noise and in the cabin. Mind you I think the butt dyno feels more pull and car doesn't seem to bog at the lower rpm's. Gotta go for a jet onto the 401 and see what it's like through the gear box. :pop

[majic]

Oddly enough, I was running with nothing on the bottom and thoroughly enjoyed

:whoa yeah that is odd .. cover up next time would ya!?! :chuckle

[Gizzmo_jr]

oh har har :blush
Okay, I'll have to go with Skarbro's idea and keep the PVC pipes attached to the airbox. Although sounds less aggressive, there is a noticeable difference in car response and go power.

[blue3]

will this setup , in any way void my warranty , i tried thi mod and yes there is an increase is response and a nice pull , but im scared it will void my warranty

[KenYork]

will this setup , in any way void my warranty , i tried thi mod and yes there is an increase is response and a nice pull , but im scared it will void my warranty

replace resonator when going in for warranty service.

[Skarbro]

will this setup , in any way void my warranty , i tried thi mod and yes there is an increase is response and a nice pull , but im scared it will void my warranty

No, this will not void your warranty. It will only void any repairs needed for the intake resonator - which we don't care about anyway. Don't worry, man. Your warranty is intact. They can't blame any problems with the car on this mod.

[blue3]

do you guys find the slightest amount or low end torque gone or is it just me

[KenYork]

do you guys find the slightest amount or low end torque gone or is it just me

I find a bit.

[Skarbro]

That's entirely possible, but really hard to tell. Hopefully someone will dyno it sometime.

One thing I was thinking about was replacing the small after-filter resonator to see if that changes anything. It may somehow hold a reserve of air for immediate low-end torque from idle. But that's really a huge shot in the dark.

I personally don't feel the loss of low end torque, but again it's hard to tell.

[sp3GT]

I don't have this set up anymore cause I have CAI now but before when I had a civic I've done a similar mod for it and torque is definitely gone, you can really feel it in a civic.

[vblanche]

just to get an update? is this mod still ok? I mean, you guys who did it, are you happy with it?

[Skarbro]

just to get an update? is this mod still ok? I mean, you guys who did it, are you happy with it?
Works great on my car. Can't speak for anyone else. Resetting the ECU is key.

[blue3]

also works great on my car , first gear "dead spot "is gone

[Skarbro]

Incidentally, I've since added another piece to the end with a little cutting with the Dremmel tool.

http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/3226/img0240ja3.jpg

[EvilDeadFan]

When your mount is SOLID your engine will basically push against it in a way that probably resonates off the frame etc. Every pulse and vibration is no longer absorbed through the mount.. but through the whole chassis instead.

[Skarbro]

When your mount is SOLID your engine will basically push against it in a way that probably resonates off the frame etc. Every pulse and vibration is no longer absorbed through the mount.. but through the whole chassis instead.
Um... where is this coming from? Are you referring to the posts from May? We already established this.

[blue3]

hey skarbro , with this other piece added , any difference ?

[Skarbro]

hey skarbro , with this other piece added , any difference ?
In my head, yes. I have to finish cutting it a little better (i.e., bigger cut). It acts like a catcher's mit because the air rushes in the fender from the side of the radiator.

When I reset the battery after doing this, I couldn't believe how good the throttle response and low end torque was.

Also, I checked the tubing when we had the bumper off. No issues with moisture at all. And I've driven through some rain storms.

[rcd001]

How do you reset the ECU? Just unplug the battery or is this a procedure?

[Skarbro]

How do you reset the ECU? Just unplug the battery or is this a procedure?
Disconnect the negative battery terminal for at least 15 minutes.

[blue3]

did u find a slight more mpg?

[Skarbro]

did u find a slight more mpg?
Nope.

[Jooky]

Hey guys,

Thanks Scarboro for your guide, and pictures on this mod. Just completed it tonight with a friend. Removed the bumper and the resonator was no problem to get out. Post mod, the engine growls a slight bit more, but probably not significantly enough to be noticed by someone unfamiliar with the car's sound. In the higher revs the sound is definitely smoother and more aggressive. I haven't noticed any drop or gain in power, however the engine does seem a bit more responsive now. Starting the ignition, and take off from stand still do have a bit more growl. I'll post later on the mileage averages once I've got a couple tanks under my belt. Word of advice to anyone trying this take the filter box out through the hood, bolt on the coupler and then reinstall the filter box. It'll save you a lot of frustration trying to get the coupler attached.

[blue3]

a couple times my pvc fell off. the second half , did u guys encounter this ?

[Skarbro]

a couple times my pvc fell off. the second half , did u guys encounter this ?
Nope. Mines on tight. I put a little super-glue on the joints as well.

[JaYson]

verrrrry interesting...

[Default User]

verrrrry interesting...

Did you just resurrect an old thread lol

[JaYson]

....maybe...sorry...i wanted to keep it on record so i could come back to it later one day........

or

...it was new to me?

[Default User]

Hahhaa no worries, man.

I believe, unless you connect it right to your factory airbox, it doesn't do anything.

If you have an SRI, it's better to just remove the factory intake resonator just to free up some weight.

[Chrisinski]

Once this storm is through I plan on doing this. I may add some mesh or something to replicate a filter just to keep out bugs n such!