Rear pads & rotors

[steph]

I went to Avante to get my 05 mazda3 hatch serviced and they told me that my rear pads and rotors have less than 5% left on them (and have a lot of rust) and that my fronts are still okay. Is it normal for the rears to wear faster than the fronts?? I have 48,500 km on my car. They quoted me $460 for pads and rotors (rear only)...is that reasonable??

Also, is there a particular brand/type of pads & rotors I should be looking at. I've been looking at the stickies but I'd still like some opinions. Thx!

[Flagrum_3]

I went to Avante to get my 05 mazda3 hatch serviced and they told me that my rear pads and rotors have less than 5% left on them (and have a lot of rust) and that my fronts are still okay. Is it normal for the rears to wear faster than the fronts?? I have 48,500 km on my car. They quoted me $460 for pads and rotors (rear only)...is that reasonable??

Also, is there a particular brand/type of pads & rotors I should be looking at. I've been looking at the stickies but I'd still like some opinions. Thx!

It seems to be a normal occurance on the 3's for the rear pads to wear sooner then the fronts :loco ...But what you should be questioning is why they (the rear pads) are worn down to less than 5% at such low a mileage! You must have a problem there somewhere; either with the caliper(s) or possibly parking brake assembly....which are both still covered under warranty, (if you are under 3 years that is.)...You should discuss this 'problem' with the service advisor because less then 5% at 48k~is not normal wear.

If the dealer does not agree to replace the components under a warranty issue then I would suggest going with Magnum rotors and Hawk pads, they are cheaper then oem and IMO, better quality.


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[steph]

It seems to be a normal occurance on the 3's for the rear pads to wear sooner then the fronts :loco ...But what you should be questioning is why they (the rear pads) are worn down to less than 5% at such low a mileage! You must have a problem there somewhere; either with the caliper(s) or possibly parking brake assembly....which are both still covered under warranty, (if you are under 3 years that is.)...You should discuss this 'problem' with the service advisor because less then 5% at 48k~is not normal wear.

If the dealer does not agree to replace the components under a warranty issue then I would suggest going with Magnum rotors and Hawk pads, they are cheaper then oem and IMO, better quality.


_3

I questioned the dealer the brakes have worn down so low already and why the rear wears quicker than the front and they said that it was normal. I think I'm going to talk to them again.

Would having subs in the trunk increase the rate of brake wear??
Also, what is the average normal mileage that the brakes should be changed at?

[Flagrum_3]

I questioned the dealer the brakes have worn down so low already and why the rear wears quicker than the front and they said that it was normal. I think I'm going to talk to them again.

Would having subs in the trunk increase the rate of brake wear??
Also, what is the average normal mileage that the brakes should be changed at?

I have my Sub and amps in the back and I replaced my pads at around 72k and there was still life left in them, so I don't think the subs would affect it much, if at all.

I can't say whether 'my' brake life span is "average/normal", but I feel safe in saying your 48k is definitely too early....but the rear pads will (and this is from myself and other members) wear faster then the fronts~that is normal.

Did they show you the pads last time? Was there uneven wear in the pads ie; inside to outside pads or from left (driver side) to right (Passenger side)?...that would be a tale-tell sign that something was askew. I'd have them check your calipers and parking brake for any problems, because there is definitely something wrong...If they still give you the BS, take it somewhere else.


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[Wild Weasel]

If it were front brakes, then I'd say 50k is a reasonable amount of mileage to have to change them. I share your confusion about the rear brakes though. There's no reason for the rear brakes to wear faster than the front, but it seems to be a regular occurrance with the 3. I suspect it may have a little more brake bias toward the rear than one would expect, and the size difference means they wear out quicker.

Most of the braking power comes from the front, so logic dictates that those should wear out first, but there's also more meat up there to last longer.

[06Touring3]

I just changed all 4 pads (and front rotors) at 74k and my rear pads had probably 80% left still while my fronts had around 5%...so i don't encounter the same problem that is apparently "normal".....

My rear pads are still wearing off the break-in coating that EBC pads have while my fronts have been fine for weeks now...so it seems i have the exact opposite scenario as other people

[steph]

I have my Sub and amps in the back and I replaced my pads at around 72k and there was still life left in them, so I don't think the subs would affect it much, if at all.

I can't say whether 'my' brake life span is "average/normal", but I feel safe in saying your 48k is definitely too early....but the rear pads will (and this is from myself and other members) wear faster then the fronts~that is normal.

Did they show you the pads last time? Was there uneven wear in the pads ie; inside to outside pads or from left (driver side) to right (Passenger side)?...that would be a tale-tell sign that something was askew. I'd have them check your calipers and parking brake for any problems, because there is definitely something wrong...If they still give you the BS, take it somewhere else.


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They didn't show me anything, but it was written on my inspection sheet that I have .2 mm left on one side and .3 mm left in the other in the rear. I think I have 3 mm left on both sides in the front (I'm at work & don't have the sheet with me). So, I guess that means that there is uneven wear in the back but they didn't say anything to me.

I've been looking at Wagner ultra quiet pads... are they any good??

[steph]

I just changed all 4 pads (and front rotors) at 74k and my rear pads had probably 80% left still while my fronts had around 5%...so i don't encounter the same problem that is apparently "normal".....

My rear pads are still wearing off the break-in coating that EBC pads have while my fronts have been fine for weeks now...so it seems i have the exact opposite scenario as other people

Wow, that's weird that its totally opposite for our cars.
Where did you get your brakes done and what kind did you get? If you don't mind me asking....

[06Touring3]

My friend did my brakes he's a mechanic....and I have EBC front rotors and EBC greenstuff pads all around

[bhadreshl]

I just purchased Magnum X-Drilled Rotors mainly because they were one of the cheapest I could find. Cheaper than dealer or OEM's at other stores.
It cost me $130 for all four.

My Hawk HPS pads just came in the other day so just a few more days til rotors arrive.

[Noisy Crow]

Make sure your parking brake is releasing properly.

[steph]

Make sure your parking brake is releasing properly.

I told my dad's mechanic about it and he's going to take a look at the parking break for me.

Is anybody using Raybestos brake pads and/or rotors??
That's what I'm probably going to end up getting seeing how that's what my dad's mechanic uses and he's going to be working on my car.

[Flagrum_3]

I told my dad's mechanic about it and he's going to take a look at the parking break for me.

Is anybody using Raybestos brake pads and/or rotors??
That's what I'm probably going to end up getting seeing how that's what my dad's mechanic uses and he's going to be working on my car.

Get a price on them first and then compare with what you can get thru here; for instance you can get Hawk HPS all around for about $180 taxs in....and Raybestos do not compare in quality....IMO. :)

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[steph]

Get a price on them first and then compare with what you can get thru here; for instance you can get Hawk HPS all around for about $180 taxs in....and Raybestos do not compare in quality....IMO. :)

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He quoted me $386 for parts and labour ($150 for labour). I think the pads are around $76 for the pair and $115 for the rotors. Who would I get the Hawk pads from through here??

[WeatherB]

He quoted me $386 for parts and labour ($150 for labour). I think the pads are around $76 for the pair and $115 for the rotors. Who would I get the Hawk pads from through here??

$150 is too much for labour. Changing the pads takes less than 1/2 hour.

[bhadreshl]

He quoted me $386 for parts and labour ($150 for labour). I think the pads are around $76 for the pair and $115 for the rotors. Who would I get the Hawk pads from through here??

I ended up buying Hawk HPS front and rear pads from Gary @ bigbrakparts.net. It cost me $177 (including $30 shipping).

[bhadreshl]

$150 is too much for labour. Changing the pads takes less than 1/2 hour.

I talked to Jimmy @ StreetPerformance recently. He claims he can do for 1/3 of that price.

[karsia323]

There is a difference between just changing pads/ rotors with changing pads/rotors PLUS servicing the brakes. The ongoing rate for changing 4rotors/4pads with servicing the calipers should go for about $130-$140 while some mechanics are willing to change just front and rear pads for $50.

[karsia323]

Well... just to be fair, some garages have more overheads than others, and so they have to charge more.

[nicker]

that is totally odd that the rears went faster then the fronts, I personally have never heard or seen that before. Either way for that price Id get complete set of slotted/drilled roters and pads and do the install your self.

[Cozwell]

I had the same with my rears @ 92k i just replaced all 4 pads and rotors...

[Wild Weasel]

There is a difference between just changing pads/ rotors with changing pads/rotors PLUS servicing the brakes. The ongoing rate for changing 4rotors/4pads with servicing the calipers should go for about $130-$140 while some mechanics are willing to change just front and rear pads for $50.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but "servicing" the brakes doesn't generally include bleeding them, right?

If that's the case... then what do you think they're doing other than blowing off dust and putting some lube on the sliders?

[shootemup]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but "servicing" the brakes doesn't generally include bleeding them, right?

If that's the case... then what do you think they're doing other than blowing off dust and putting some lube on the sliders?

Dismantaling the sliders, cleaning off rust, filing down any uneaven wear that may hang up the pads and cause them to jam, lubricating everything... He is right, there is a BIG difference in a $50 job and a $150 job.

[cereal83]

^ Your right, for $150 you think they do the job properly but just switch the pads and bleed them and then give you your car back. They are there to make money, thats it!

[shootemup]

That's why you go to a trusted mechanic. I go to the shop I used to work at because I know the owner well and trust his workmanship. With my old car, I had to get my rear brakes serviced at least once a year or they would seize and it would be about $120 for them.

Oh, and Wild Weasel, I forgot to specify... No, a brake service does not include bleeding of the lines. It is just a servicing of the hardware (calipers, bracets, sliders, auto adjusters). They only bleed the lines if they open the lines somewhere, exposing the system to air. That or they do a brake fluid change, which is a seperate service.

[karsia323]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but "servicing" the brakes doesn't generally include bleeding them, right?

If that's the case... then what do you think they're doing other than blowing off dust and putting some lube on the sliders?

Of course, "servicing" the brakes doesn't include bleeding them and you would expect cleaning the hardware properly though. At the same time, I don't expect charging $50, thus $25 per front/rear, will give you a brake job other than just changing the pads. The normal mechanic rate is about $60-$70/hour, and charging $25 means you are expecting to spend less than 20 minutes doing both sides. How good a brake job can it be? Well.... if one is working from his own garage with little or no overhead, or if he is just fine doing it for fun or for a case of beer, that is a different story. Charging $150 for just changing the pads and rotors will be a bit on the high side, but different shops have different overhead and not everyone is willing to drive a long way to get things done. Convenience has its costs too. Anyways, it is just like someone will do a 17" tire change for $20, while others won't do it for anything under $80. :)

[Wild Weasel]

Dismantaling the sliders, cleaning off rust, filing down any uneaven wear that may hang up the pads and cause them to jam, lubricating everything... He is right, there is a BIG difference in a $50 job and a $150 job.

Dismantling sliders? You need to take them out to replace the pads anyway. Then you just wipe them off and lube them. Cleaning off rust? From an aluminum caliper?

Sorry... I just don't see the extra value.

[06Touring3]

Dismantling sliders? You need to take them out to replace the pads anyway. Then you just wipe them off and lube them. Cleaning off rust? From an aluminum caliper?

Sorry... I just don't see the extra value.

I was wondering the same thing when I did my brakes

[joker]

Did anyone heared of SR performance rotors from Etopline ?

[Flagrum_3]

Dismantling sliders? You need to take them out to replace the pads anyway. Then you just wipe them off and lube them. Cleaning off rust? From an aluminum caliper?

Sorry... I just don't see the extra value.

Actually, and not to be argumentative :chuckle There is quite a difference between just exchanging parts and a 'Good Brake Job' as is the case in almost anything! ...Aluminum doesn't rust? that's funny cause I see alot of rust on people's calipers! but the point is that the calipers and hangers are made from castings which have uneven areas, high points and even burrs to a lessor extent...These areas should be examined and ground and cleaned before re-assembly as Shootemup mentioned to eliminate 'any possible' Hang-Ups....studs and axle backing plates should also be wire brushed and cleaned to promote good seatment, sliders and sleeves should be examined for any scouring, proper lubrication on specific areas etc; etc; ...so as you can see there is a right (and more costly) way and then a fast-easy (less-expensive)way of doing brakes.


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[06Touring3]

Actually, and not to be argumentative :chuckle There is quite a difference between just exchanging parts and a 'Good Brake Job' as is the case in almost anything! ...Aluminum doesn't rust? that's funny cause I see alot of rust on people's calipers! but the point is that the calipers and hangers are made from castings which have uneven areas, high points and even burrs to a lessor extent...These areas should be examined and ground and cleaned before re-assembly as Shootemup mentioned to eliminate 'any possible' Hang-Ups....studs and axle backing plates should also be wire brushed and cleaned to promote good seatment, sliders and sleeves should be examined for any scouring, proper lubrication on specific areas etc; etc; ...so as you can see there is a right (and more costly) way and then a fast-easy (less-expensive)way of doing brakes.


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does the dealership do all these things when servicing the brakes?

if not paying them is pointless but i agree it's good preventative maintenance

[shootemup]

does the dealership do all these things when servicing the brakes?

if not paying them is pointless but i agree it's good preventative maintenance

They should!

[Flagrum_3]

does the dealership do all these things when servicing the brakes?

That all depends on who is doing the job!! A good mechanic will take the time to do the 'needed extras' because they have pride in thier work and a reputation to withhold, others will just try to cut corners and get the job thru as that's how they make their money in the 'Flat rate System'.


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[06Touring3]

That all depends on who is doing the job!! A good mechanic will take the time to do the 'needed extras' because they have pride in thier work and a reputation to withhold, others will just try to cut corners and get the job thru as that's how they make their money in the 'Flat rate System'.


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so i'm going to assume no then

[Flagrum_3]

so i'm going to assume no then

Well I won't argue that, as I've seen it myself but there are exceptions, I 've watched a particular Technician at Scarboro Mazda do all the neccesary steps, but I guess that's why he's the master mechanic there, an ol' timer with pride in his work.....times change! Used to be during all brake services bleeding the system for instance was common practice, but now forget it, they'll just try to charge you for a brake system flush and not even truly flush the system :chuckle


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[steph]

Hey, so I had my brakes done and I guess the $150 to change the rotors & pads was somewhat reasonable because they bled the lines and inspected the brakes as well. I ended up just going with the raybestos setup because it was the easiest and quickest for me.
So far I have no complaints. Its quiet and seems to be working well.

[yuro]

Dismantling sliders? You need to take them out to replace the pads anyway.

just a quick question... i'm not too clear on what the sliders are... are they those two bolts that attach the caliper to the mount? (hex key needs to be used to take them out)???

[Flagrum_3]

just a quick question... i'm not too clear on what the sliders are... are they those two bolts that attach the caliper to the mount? (hex key needs to be used to take them out)???

Yup that's them they serve two purposes in our 3's; as the mounting bolts and sliders.

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[3_SoMe]

I just did my complete brake job on my car at 72000 because the rears were actually grinding metal on metal. I did a lot of pricing and found that to do the performance upgrade over all OEM parts cost me around $30 more.

I bought M-sport slotted and drilled rotors (which is a canadian company) and Hawk HPS pads all around. Power slots were only $20 more a rotor for those that know them. I am very impressed with my braking power so far plus they look amazing on the car. I have already had a lot of complements on them already from random people that have seen them. They are fully zinc coated with a chrome type finish. We will see how long that lasts after the winter.

Full set up cost me $586 with me and a few friends doing the install. Trust me it is worth it to do it yourself. So easy and worth the $270 plus taxes the dealership is going to charge you (I priced it). Only problem I had was removing the old rotors from the hub, but when I called in for back up (friends with a bigger hammer) they came off pretty easy.

[alexg]

Contributing to this discussion...

My M3 has about 50k on it. Canadian Tire quote me some crazy shit...

$50 x4 for pads
the guy wanted to machine the rotors instead of replacing

asked $220 for labor... just a quick search online shows this to be pretty crazy... i doubt he's quoting me higher quality pads.

anyways, can anyone recommend a place (preferably downtown) to get my brakes done?

and how much should i expect to pay for regular pads, rotors and labor?

[Cousin Dave]

It seems to be fairly normal for the rear brakes to wear out quickly. I knew that was inevitable, since I was getting all sorts of brake dust building up on my rear wheels.

When I changed my rear pads and rotors (with "high end" Raybestos parts) at approx 46,000km I have never had brake dust build up. My car has now 130,000 kms and I am still on the original front brakes that came with the car, as well as the Raybestos parts on the rear. Checked pads on the car about 2 weeks ago and there is still quite a bit of life in them.

As for which to go with, that Depends on what you are looking for (high performance for street/track, or good performance for the street).

As for the price that is pretty expensive, I can recommend a reputable shop who can do your brakes at a better price. PM me if you want their contact info.

[Nuno416]

I've got an '05 Mazda3 Sport with a 5yr extended warranty and just over 24k. During my last two oil changes I was told that my rear rotors and pads would need to be replaced as soon as possible and was quoted about $400 for the repairs. This took me by complete surprise seeing as I've put very little kms on the car and I told them I couldn't afford the repairs at the time. I also inquired whether this would be covered under warranty and was of course told that it was "normal wear & tear" so wouldn't be covered. I haven't noticed any squeaking under braking.

I'm due for an oil change so I'm sure the dealer will once again tell me the rear brakes need replacing so I'd like to know if this should be covered by warranty because of the low kms? At this rate, by the time I hit 100k, I will have had the rear brakes replace 4 times! That can't be normal. Until I notice a difference in stopping distance or hear the brakes squeaking, should I just put it off?

[bhadreshl]

I've got an '05 Mazda3 Sport with a 5yr extended warranty and just over 24k. During my last two oil changes I was told that my rear rotors and pads would need to be replaced as soon as possible and was quoted about $400 for the repairs. This took me by complete surprise seeing as I've put very little kms on the car and I told them I couldn't afford the repairs at the time. I also inquired whether this would be covered under warranty and was of course told that it was "normal wear & tear" so wouldn't be covered. I haven't noticed any squeaking under braking.

I'm due for an oil change so I'm sure the dealer will once again tell me the rear brakes need replacing so I'd like to know if this should be covered by warranty because of the low kms? At this rate, by the time I hit 100k, I will have had the rear brakes replace 4 times! That can't be normal. Until I notice a difference in stopping distance or hear the brakes squeaking, should I just put it off?

The stock rear pads on Mazda3's are very soft so they wear off extremely quickly. I suggest you get a set of Hawk HPS ($80 - $100 USD) and get a small shop to install them for the most efficient/economical solution possible. These will last you at least until you have to replace your front pads.

Anything to do with brakes is not covered under warranty, so you're on your own with this one unless its the parking brake cable.

Do not put off replacing your brakes. You *NEED* all 4 brakes on your car. Avoiding to do so will possibly result in more damage to your rear rotors and could cause an accident.

[alexg]

I've got an '05 Mazda3 Sport with a 5yr extended warranty and just over 24k. During my last two oil changes I was told that my rear rotors and pads would need to be replaced as soon as possible and was quoted about $400 for the repairs. This took me by complete surprise seeing as I've put very little kms on the car and I told them I couldn't afford the repairs at the time. I also inquired whether this would be covered under warranty and was of course told that it was "normal wear & tear" so wouldn't be covered. I haven't noticed any squeaking under braking.

I'm due for an oil change so I'm sure the dealer will once again tell me the rear brakes need replacing so I'd like to know if this should be covered by warranty because of the low kms? At this rate, by the time I hit 100k, I will have had the rear brakes replace 4 times! That can't be normal. Until I notice a difference in stopping distance or hear the brakes squeaking, should I just put it off?

you dont need to replace all 4 either, rears wear off much faster... i had 46kkm on 2006 m3 and stock fronts were still at 40% when rears started squeaking.

btw, what dealer is that? it's probably on my list of places to avoid anyways, but i just want to confirm :)

[kevcol74]

Wow, alot of you guys have issues! 143,000kms and still on the original rears.... Are they due? Yes... gearing down helps! (manual tranny) Fronts have been replaced, but not the rears. considering 75% of your braking happens fron the fronts, premature rear brake wear is definitely a concern. I admit the rears are usually a softer compound (organic pads), but they still don't wear THAT quickly normally. They put organics on to be easier on thr rotors and extend their life. BUt metallics or ceramic (or carbon metallics) and you'll chew up the rear rotors as fast as the pads.

[Nuno416]

The stock rear pads on Mazda3's are very soft so they wear off extremely quickly. I suggest you get a set of Hawk HPS ($80 - $100 USD) and get a small shop to install them for the most efficient/economical solution possible. These will last you at least until you have to replace your front pads.

Anything to do with brakes is not covered under warranty, so you're on your own with this one unless its the parking brake cable.


Thanks for the tips. Looks like I'll have to bite the bullet and spend the money on Hawk HPS pads, but they're telling me the rotors need replacing as well. Any suggestions for rotors? OEM or are there better/cheaper choices? I'm not that mechanical so DIY is not an option, so I think I'll buy the parts and take them a buddy's shop for installation. Any places in the GTA sell the Hawk HPS pads or do I need to order them?

I still have a problem with how they wore out in 20,000kms, that can't be normal. It's also a manual, I don't ride the brakes and gear down to slow down quite a lot. When the service rep told me they needed replacing I asked why so soon and he asked whether the car would sit for long periods of time and it has sat around quite a bit (which is why I only have 24k on it), but it's driven at least a couple of times a week. Besides, why would having the car parked affect brake pads/rotors?



btw, what dealer is that? it's probably on my list of places to avoid anyways, but i just want to confirm :)


Dufferin Mazda @ Dufferin/N of Eglinton. I'm not very happy with them in general, but unfortunately it's closest to home.

[bhadreshl]

The problem you are having is not only because the rear pads are soft, but because the calipers are sticky.

I had the exact same problem. I noticed quite a bit of brake dust in the rear and my pads were thinning.

What happens is the calipers get sticky (lack of lubrication, moisture, salt, etc) and cause the pads to rub on the rotors, wearing each component out prematurely when driving. It's *like*(but not actually) driving with your parking brake engaged all the time.

So what I ended up doing is replacing all 4 rotors and pads. I didn't need to replace the front pads or rotors, but I wanted them to look the same.

What you should do tho is replace only your rear rotors and pads. You can get OEM looking rotors but do not buy OEM since they are more expensive than aftermarket. I got Magnum + Hawk (search that on forum).

[--=PsYcH0mAN=--]

I had my dealership make a recommendation to get my brakes replaced two services ago! (so that would be about 16,000KM ago.. which translates to about 1 year ago). I'm still riding on the same pads and probably need them replaced soon but I can't tell as I don't want to take the steelies off the car during the winter. :chuckle

So I'm about to go back in for an oil change and I need to replace my tranny fluid too so I figure I might as well get the rear replaced. I'm at 62,000KMs and my front brakes have quite a bit of pads left. It is really weird that the rears wear out before the fronts!

How do you know if you need to replace the rotors as well? The dealership said I would have to do both pads and calipers but I don't know if I can trust that recommendation as I've been driving perfectly fine with my original brakes for the past year now.

Also, I'm going to be replacing the parts with Mazda brakes as I'm still under warranty (bought extended) and I don't want any trouble if I end up having issues with the car.

Thoughts?

[kevcol74]

If the calipers are toast, they should be covered under warranty, so this shouldn't cost you anymore than just pads and rotors. If they try and charge you, tell them to piss off! lol
I have the NC6160 MAP warranty, and calipers list as covered up to my 160,000kms.

[Flagrum_3]

Thanks for the tips. Looks like I'll have to bite the bullet and spend the money on Hawk HPS pads, but they're telling me the rotors need replacing as well. Any suggestions for rotors? OEM or are there better/cheaper choices? I'm not that mechanical so DIY is not an option, so I think I'll buy the parts and take them a buddy's shop for installation. Any places in the GTA sell the Hawk HPS pads or do I need to order them?

I still have a problem with how they wore out in 20,000kms, that can't be normal. It's also a manual, I don't ride the brakes and gear down to slow down quite a lot. When the service rep told me they needed replacing I asked why so soon and he asked whether the car would sit for long periods of time and it has sat around quite a bit (which is why I only have 24k on it), but it's driven at least a couple of times a week. Besides, why would having the car parked affect brake pads/rotors?



Dufferin Mazda @ Dufferin/N of Eglinton. I'm not very happy with them in general, but unfortunately it's closest to home.

Do yourself a favour and use our sponsors here for the pads! Hawk are good pads and maybe $80.As for the Rotors just use one of our affiliated dealers, OEM rotors should be around $120 for both rear, if I remember correctly.

One of the problems with our rear brakes is the slider pins which get alot of dirt and grime build-up in the rear, causing severe sticking of the calipers which can wear the pads down prematurely.Funny part is not in all cases, some never have a problem (It's mentioned in the manual to have these serviced every 24k)....There has also been a problem with the parking brake mechanism in some cases, which could hold the brakes slightly on in the rear, I believe there was a bulletin on this issue!.....You might want to purchase new sliders while your at it they are not expensive, maybe $12 for the rear set and use a good synthetic grease on them too.The cheap grease most dealers use hardens and gets crusty after awhile (from the heat) and adds to the sticking problem.


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[Nuno416]

Also, I'm going to be replacing the parts with Mazda brakes as I'm still under warranty (bought extended) and I don't want any trouble if I end up having issues with the car.


I also have an extended warranty and now I'm a little worried. Can anyone that works at Mazda confirm whether getting brakes replaced with non-Mazda parts and at a different shop (not a dealer) would void any kind of warranty? I wouldn't think so, since as they've told me it's not a warranty issue.

Thanks.

[Flagrum_3]

I also have an extended warranty and now I'm a little worried. Can anyone that works at Mazda confirm whether getting brakes replaced with non-Mazda parts and at a different shop (not a dealer) would void any kind of warranty? I wouldn't think so, since as they've told me it's not a warranty issue.

Thanks.

Extended warranty or not, only the calipers themselves are covered! Rotors and pads are covered for only 12 months 24k, as they are wear items....So it does not matter what rotors or pads you use.As for voiding the warranty I highly doubt getting serviced anywhere else would cancel it, aslong as it's performed by a licensed mechanic or shop.


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