Hawk Ceramics and Goodridge SS Brake lines

[mleblond]

Hey I got the stuff from Pat and I will install it tonight. I just wanted to know if I have to drain the whole master cylinder?

it says to "Remove wheels and drain the system brake fluid as per manufacturer recommended method"

What is the manufacturer recommended method? Any help is appreciated I am doing this in about 3 hours...

[06Touring3]

i believe what it means is you have to bleed the brakes...

basically loosen the bleed nut and compress (push back in) the piston which will bleed the fluid out of the cylinder

otherwise you will not be able to put the caliper back on with the new pads as it will not be wide enough

someone correct me if i'm wrong

[mleblond]

But I have to change the brake lines too so I will be in a brake fluid mess?

[06Touring3]

lines i'm not sure about but here's a link to WildWiesels site with a write up on changing lines

http://www.wildweasel.ca/HowTo/Auto/Mazda3/BrakeInstall.aspx

"Bleeding the Brake System If you are only replacing the pads and rotors, you will not normally have to bleed the system unless you've found your pedal feel to be mushy and suspect there is air in the lines.
If you are replacing the lines though, or otherwise opening any parts of the system which may let in air (this does not include removing the reservoir cap) then you will have to bleed the lines to purge any air. Generic instructions for doing so can be found here (http://www.wildweasel.ca/HowTo/Auto/BleedBrakes.aspx)."

[06Touring3]

just a note (didn't want to add it to the same post)

When i changed my rears i had a HELL of a time compressing the pistons it took a lot of force to get it to compress. For a while we didn't think it was working then eventually one solid push and turn and out came the fluid and in went the piston

also be sure to purchase some brake fluid to replace what you take out when you bleed them

[mleblond]

Nice Find, Thanks

[WeatherB]

just a note (didn't want to add it to the same post)

When i changed my rears i had a HELL of a time compressing the pistons it took a lot of force to get it to compress. For a while we didn't think it was working then eventually one solid push and turn and out came the fluid and in went the piston

also be sure to purchase some brake fluid to replace what you take out when you bleed them

The Hawk Ceramics are fantastic and produce very little brake dust.

Compressing the rear is actually easy once you understand how they work... You need to take a pair of needle nose pliers and stick them into the two holes on the caliper piston, then push in while turning the piston clockwise. I had no problems with it on my last two Mazdas.

[silvermist99]

make sure you bleed the brakes really well after you have the SS line on or you will have air in your brakes and the it will feel really weird/slow respond. Also WEAR GLOVES. Brake fluid will burn thru your skin.

Not going into details but this should be the steps, open master cyclinder, change all lines, change pads, then last step would be bleed brakes.

When you bleed the brakes you will need two person to do it, one to hold the caliper valve close and the other person to pump and hold pedal, then release the caliper valve while having the foot on the brake and repeat. Make sure you don't let the master cyclinder run empty of fluid or you'll get air in the system.

be careful removing the factory brake line... I stripped that nut on my old car it was horrible getting it off.

follow ww's instruction on the rest thats it!

[06Touring3]

you can purchase little cups with tupes that connect to the bleed hole which will avoid the fluid spilling anywhere...i think crappy tire has them

[06Touring3]

The Hawk Ceramics are fantastic and produce very little brake dust.

Compressing the rear is actually easy once you understand how they work... You need to take a pair of needle nose pliers and stick them into the two holes on the caliper piston, then push in while turning the piston clockwise. I had no problems with it on my last two Mazdas.

yeah i don't know what the problem was....maybe i'm just weak but it took a while to compress it (wth a needle nose and sheer manpower!!! lol)

[mleblond]

I will let you all know how it goes....starting in 40 mins :)

[06Touring3]

how did it work out for you?

[mleblond]

Dusk came too quickly. Ended up not doing it and having my dealer do it for me :(

I could not get the front caliper off and the back caliper I could not compress enough to have it fit the new pads. I also had to do other work on the car at the same time so no dice it's at the dealer right now getting an oil change, 24k service and the brakes done.

Here's another 300$ in the hole...

[WeatherB]

Dusk came too quickly. Ended up not doing it and having my dealer do it for me :(

I could not get the front caliper off and the back caliper I could not compress enough to have it fit the new pads. I also had to do other work on the car at the same time so no dice it's at the dealer right now getting an oil change, 24k service and the brakes done.

Here's another 300$ in the hole...

That sucks... The actual caliper sliders should only be torqued to 20 ft/lbs so sounds like someone overtightened them last time...

Did the dealership give you any grief about installing the ceramic pads?

[06Touring3]

yeah the back calipers take a LOT of effort to compress the piston

[AutoXRacer]

yeah the back calipers take a LOT of effort to compress the piston

Have you guys checked to make sure they are not like the Miata rear brakes that requires an allen wrench to loosen them up? On the Miata rear brakes, there is a 10mm plug, behind it is an allen head that retracts the piston.

[mleblond]

lol too late 375$ later they are installed