Motomaster Eliminator 12V - Problems Already

[Halogen]

Ok, I replaced the stock battery in the M3 today with a CT bought Motomaster Eliminator. Car started good with lots of juice, went out driving for awhile and after in total like 50 mins engine running time, I rolled into my parking lot and noticed my rpm gauge was jumping from 1000 to 1500 at idle in neutral, and my lights were dimming intermittently, my heater set @ 4 was also fading out in phase. I don't know what to think. Is the battery just not strong enough ? Is the cold weather affecting the current supply ? Is it possible I may have a parasitic drain somewhere in the system ? I never noticed this behavior with the stock battery when it was charged and running good.

I'll probably get the new battery tested tomorrow, then try to hunt down a Delco. Yet, I don't want to give up on the Motomaster battery just yet, what should I do in this situation ?

[eqlso]

If your car is running with a new battery, and the lights are dimming, its probably more your alternator than your battery.

[Malcolm991]

If your car is running with a new battery, and the lights are dimming, its probably more your alternator than your battery.

+1

[Walrus]

Agreed. Your alternator is going, or you have a bad connection/dirty terminals. Maybe your old battery was fine.

[PlatMS6]

It's your alternator.... you probably didn't need a battery in the first place.

[Halogen]

Well, the Jap battery was completely dead and wouldn't start the car, so I replaced it and the car started first turn, so at least I can drive again. The terminals looked clean and all wires looked in good condition. I'm sure the battery will charge up back to normal, will any old battery charger work ?

If the alternator is going, I should be able to monitor a drop in battery voltages or monitor current from alternator ? Thanks

[Donutz]

Jumping RPM sounds like the ECU is relearning. The dimming lights sounds like others have described; alternator problems.

[eqlso]

I agree with the others; your old battery may have been fine. It probably died because your alternator didn't charge it back up as you were driving, but the battery itself can still hold a charge. The new battery will start up first turn because it is fully charged already.

If your car sudden dies or you can't start the car due to no power, try jumping it from another car. If the car starts, but dies right afterwards, then its definitely the alternator.

If you can't start your car, and you jump from another source, but it runs fine after the engine is on, then its your battery not being able to hold a charge.

[SonicBoy]

Bring the car into a shop and have them diagnose the problem. Like others stated, it's probably the altenator but only test equipment will be able to tell you.

As part of the diagnosis they will test both batter and Altenator. You'll get your answer one way or another and it could be something else totally.

[Dave_The_BMXER]

Nah, easy way to check without shop diagnose.

Start car, let it run, unhook the battery.

If it dies its your alternator.

[queens49]

If you have a voltmeter, just measure the voltage across the battery terminals when the car is running. It should be reading over 13V. If it's not, the alternator isn't working like it should.

[Flagrum_3]

Well, the Jap battery was completely dead and wouldn't start the car, so I replaced it and the car started first turn, so at least I can drive again. The terminals looked clean and all wires looked in good condition. I'm sure the battery will charge up back to normal, will any old battery charger work ?

If the alternator is going, I should be able to monitor a drop in battery voltages or monitor current from alternator ? Thanks

Don't be retarded man, bring the fark'n thing in to the shop and have it tested!! IF the alternator is on it's way out; it won't charge fark'all! ....Your tempting fate here!! Wanna have the thing die on you on a 400 series hiway? in these temps and conditions??....that would be fun wouldn't it lol.


_3

[Halogen]

Tempting fate...Wow, how many times in a lifetime have you done that and for what reasons ? Your right tho, my dad said the same thing.

I'll get another multi-meter, do the voltage test to be accurate, if the alternator is showing life, I'll swap the old battery in and get it boosted correctly. The Motomaster will sit in trunk for emergencies. If the battery doesn't hold a charge after a drive into Toronto tomorrow. I'll get full value under warranty. If it does hold a charge and all is well with the system, I'll return the Motomaster, even though I don't like to do business that way, warranty or no warranty.

How long after recharging a battery can you tell if it can hold a charge or not ? Or is that variable ? Would recharging it outside for a day, then throwing it back in the car a day later be a good test ?

Thanks for the help guys, I'll talk to a tech tomorrow and run my own tests tonight. I want to get this Jap battery charged up too though, any good methods alternative to the car's charging system ?

I should have just jumper cabled it to begin with...ha

[Walrus]

I don't think you get it..

[Halogen]

Alternator is pushing in 14.4 volts running (slow rpm)
Starter Motor is pushing 11.~ volts

Stock Panasonic is fully charged again and currently being used as Emergency backup battery. No problems with the Motomaster, car is running good, but lights still dim when opening windows and cranking heater. Not sure, but it seems like normal behavior. It's a good car.

[mazda lover]

Alternator is pushing in 14.4 volts running (slow rpm)
Starter Motor is pushing 11.~ volts

Stock Panasonic is fully charged again and currently being used as Emergency backup battery. No problems with the Motomaster, car is running good, but lights still dim when opening windows and cranking heater. Not sure, but it seems like normal behavior. It's a good car.

how much do the lights dim?
Are you still having problems?
Did you replace the alternator?
Just curious how it worked out...

[kevcol74]

Nah, easy way to check without shop diagnose.

Start car, let it run, unhook the battery.

If it dies its your alternator.

Old school, cars will quit when the battery dies, even if the alt is working. Even my brother's old 93 Escort GT died when the battery quit, but alt was fine.

To check you alt, although 14.4 is right on where it should be, turn on your light, heater on high, rear defroster on and anything else that can drain power. Check your multi-meter on the battery again. It shouldn't drop below 13 volts with all the drain. Even have someone roll down a window while you are taking a reading. If it drop below under load, then you have a alternator issue. Take it in some where and get an AVR Test done (Alternator and Voltage Regulator Test), and they will give you accurate results, including on the battery.

[Dave_The_BMXER]

My BMW (85) would run with the battery disconnected.

[kevcol74]

My BMW (85) would run with the battery disconnected.


Like I said, "Old School"...lol My 66 Mustang would run that way too, but with the computer on board now, they don't work that way anymore. For that matter, I think my 86 Mustang would run with no batt.... and it was fuel injected!
Trust me, I was shocked when my brother said his car quit while driving, and it turned out to be just the battery. I though for sure it was the alt! :pop

[Dave_The_BMXER]

Lousy new fangled doo a may bobs.

[kevcol74]

Lousy new fangled doo a may bobs.

I prefer old school too! :chuckle

[Halogen]

Nah man, New school Rocks the house with precision...haha

Well, it feels like -20 C outside right now @ 3 am and it cranks just fine with lots of power...So, that's a check for the motomaster.

Kevcool74 - Good info, will do. Except, most of these tests you guys are suggesting are for the alternator, how can I test the battery properly and under what specific conditions ?

For instance, how many times can you use the power locks before the battery dies ? Stupid question, but might be useful. Even rigging up a dashboard battery charge meter would be cool, you'd know right away if there were problems with the electrical system.

[kevcol74]

Its hard to do a self test on a battery... best would be to hook up your multi-meter and see what voltage drop you get when you crank over the engine. Its shouldn't drop below 10V for the crank cycle. That will give you and idea of a load test, but won't help you with a stamina test.
To properly test your battery, you need an AVR, or take it into a qualified guy behind the parts counter some where, like a veteren at CT, or Part Source. They have the proper equipment, usually just not the properly trained guys (I was one of the properly trained guys behind the counter, a "Parts Pro")
I'll be honest, there is nothing wrong with Motomaster batteries, in fact, bang for the buck, they are just behind the Costco batteries. They have a great warranty, and with the right people behind the counter, warranty claims are easy. Will you get bad one? Hell yes. If you worked in a larger CT store and saw the amount of batteries they go through, you'd have to imagine there will be some defects! Especially in the winter!

[HYPER GEAR]

how much is an sock alternator?