MSCAI2 vs COBB SF Intake

[-cj-]

Hey gang,

Looking to grab a CAI... I was trying to figure out which one to go with. The Cobb intake or the MSCAI. I was looking at the 103 93 Octane Map notes and noticed something odd:


Stage1+SF 93 v103: Boost targets: ~18psi, tapering down to ~16psi by 6700 rpm. +/- 1.5psi. Power output: +7.6% / +12.3% lb-t. (Results may vary)

vs

Stage1+MSCAI2 93 v103: Boost targets: ~18.5 psi, tapering down to ~16.5 psi by 6700 rpm. +/- 1.5psi. Power output: +7.6% HP / +12.3% lb-ft. (Results may vary)

Why is it that the MSCAI, running .5 psi more boost makes the same power (in theory) as the Cobb SF intake?

Does this mean the Cobb intake is more efficient, or that they messed up the numbers?

Also, the Cobb intake seems to be a WAI / SRI vs Mazda's CAI... Does the MS3 perform better with short intakes?

[Unoriginalusername]

i've had both, go for the sri. either cobbs or cpe's. the cob sri is easier to install, clean and no hydro lock issues. cheaper as well, probally enough so that you could add the turbo inlet pipe and gain even more power

[CanadaGTO]

I've got a great deal on the CP-e SRI at the moment. If you're interested, shoot me a PM.

[stormin84]

i've had both, go for the sri. either cobbs or cpe's. the cob sri is easier to install, clean and no hydro lock issues. cheaper as well, probally enough so that you could add the turbo inlet pipe and gain even more power

+1 well i never had the mscai but do agree with everything else UOU says

[007]

CAI vs SRI on the Speed 3 are about the same in real world driving.
Just consider your driving habits.
I would recommend a CAI if you are doing lots of City/traffic driving. This will help reduce heat soaking.

Otherwise, SRI is as good.

CAI a bit more difficult to install, but once it is in, your are done.
Hydro locking: you would have better luck winning lottery. Most hydro locking stories I've heard were about driving in a flooded road.

So, pick the one that suits your needs.

[alhope34]

I have the MS CAI with air straightener and I still run the stage2+SF 93 v103 map, runs fine. I can definitely feel the car is lacking some power when I change the CAI to SRI for winter.

[Unoriginalusername]

I have the MS CAI with air straightener and I still run the stage2+SF 93 v103 map, runs fine. I can definitely feel the car is lacking some power when I change the CAI to SRI for winter.

Changing the MS CAI into a short ram by sticking the filter onto the end of the first section isn't the same as a proper short ram lol.... besides you're probally just feeling the imediate ECU re-learning followed by the crappier weather which would effect the car anyways.


CAI vs SRI on the Speed 3 are about the same in real world driving.
Just consider your driving habits.
I would recommend a CAI if you are doing lots of City/traffic driving. This will help reduce heat soaking.

Otherwise, SRI is as good.

CAI a bit more difficult to install, but once it is in, your are done.
Hydro locking: you would have better luck winning lottery. Most hydro locking stories I've heard were about driving in a flooded road.

So, pick the one that suits your needs.

Ever open the engine bay up after city driving and grabed hold of the cai pipe? Its hot as a tea kettle... the air going into it might be colder but after going through that convection oven i doubt it. Look at your cobb ap or dashhawk... once moving the intake temps are basically identical

[ovillems3]

Ive got the Cobb sri and the abient temp is the same as my iat temp when Im moving.

[alhope34]

Changing the MS CAI into a short ram by sticking the filter onto the end of the first section isn't the same as a proper short ram lol.... besides you're probally just feeling the imediate ECU re-learning followed by the crappier weather which would effect the car anyways.

Can you please elaborate why it is different? I said I have the air straightener, and the cpe/cobb SRI looks to me is a short tube with an air straightener and a filter stuck on the end. My CAI in SRI mode looks exactly the same, a short tube with a straightener and a filter.

It COULD be the ecu relearning, I did not reset the ecu for the record, but I felt the difference the same day, same weather. Took 20 minutes to convert it, lol. I still felt the car was slower even well after it would have re-learned with similar temps and humidity.

Also, I've seen dynos and the most I've seen the Cobb SRI pick up (compared to 100% stock) is 14 whp peak. I have also seen the MS CAI dyno 22 whp peak over stock. But then, this can be classed as hearsay.

[Unoriginalusername]

Can you please elaborate why it is different? I said I have the air straightener, and the cpe/cobb SRI looks to me is a short tube with an air straightener and a filter stuck on the end. My CAI in SRI mode looks exactly the same, a short tube with a straightener and a filter.

It COULD be the ecu relearning, I did not reset the ecu for the record, but I felt the difference the same day, same weather. Took 20 minutes to convert it, lol. I still felt the car was slower even well after it would have re-learned with similar temps and humidity.

the intake diameter of the MS CAI is not the same as the Cobb SRI, so even when you add the AEM airstraightner that doesn't make it identical to a SRI. Thats why the map for the MS CAI from cobb is different let alone the lean problems some of the cars have had.

I know your setup works for you or anyone who has a CAI already, but since the dashawk has proven the intake temps to be identical once moving, the fact that a sri can be had for less, no winter switch over hassle, easier to clean etc. makes it a good choice for those able to pick between the two.

Mazda discontinued the CAI anyways; SRI also sounds better IMO. :chuckle

[alhope34]

the intake diameter of the MS CAI is not the same as the Cobb SRI, so even when you add the AEM airstraightner that doesn't make it identical to a SRI. Thats why the map for the MS CAI from cobb is different let alone the lean problems some of the cars have had.

I know your setup works for you or anyone who has a CAI already, but since the dashawk has proven the intake temps to be identical once moving, the fact that a sri can be had for less, no winter switch over hassle, easier to clean etc. makes it a good choice for those able to pick between the two.

Mazda discontinued the CAI anyways; SRI also sounds better IMO. :chuckle

All valid points. To each their own, I guess. I've just always had the belief CAI was the better, which is what I will stick to. I don't seem to have any lean problems. WOT my car sits around 10.5 a/f. But I do use the SF map cause the CAI maps suck for no apparent reason.

[mleblond]

if you got money get a CAI, if your poor get a SRI :chuckle

But seriously I am pretty positive the CAI is better for the car. I remember thinking of getting the short ram to replace my CAI and a guy at one of the big name manufacturer said not to and to stick with the CAI. So believe what you want, thats my take on it.

[Unoriginalusername]

recent cai hydrolock story for ya
http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=31459

Okay .. So I was driving trew the parking lot on federal property the other morning .. It was snowing out and as I was driving accross what looked to be a cement parking lot with a light cover of snow, it turned out to be a parking lot that was actully covered with about 1cm of snow and below that about a inch of ice and below that about 2 feet of water, as I guess it was flooded out over the weekend and then started to refreeze. So anyway, of course as i`m driving across the lot my car breaks trew the ice into the water, deep enough that when I opened my car doors water just slightly started to come into the car (car is lowered with S-techs) anyway.Car died pretty much as it crashed trew the ice, I was going out 20-30km , front bumber is pretty much destroyed, the rad is kinda messed up also. I have a CAI (MS). Its pretty clear the engine sucked up alot of moisture. Once it was towed out I took it into a heated environment for the night so any water inside the engine wouldnt freeze, I then took off the CAI and brought it inside cleaned it all up etc, I went back down to the car and checked the oil just to see if water got into the engine bad enough that it mixed with the oil .. doesnt appear of to of. Playing it on the safe side I then pulled my sparkplugs and tried to crank it over to see if it will push the water out or if its completly seized. Wouldnt crank over at all. Because the plugs are so deep I couldnt really see inside to see if there is water in side. The starter appeared to be okay for the most part so I then put all the plugs back in and tried to just start it up, not having much faith as it wouldnt crank over without the plugs in, and of course it doesnt, just makes a single "click" which I assume is just the solenoid. So anyway, the only other thing I can think of trying to determine if the engine is actully completly seized would be to bring the car up to at least 30km/h and try to bump start it type deal ... dont really wanna do that though because if it doesnt work lol i`m likly to cause some damage. So I was wondering for anyother suggestions on what I should check to see how bad it is. Also the property I was on is a military base (CFB Petawawa) should they be responsible as its there property and it isnt my falut they never properly cleared the parking lot when it flooded (though after i destroyed my car they hired a civilian company within the hour which worked all day and cleared the entire lot) also if not and I go through my insurance, will they cover and if so as what, liability or comprehensive?? I`m assuming liability ... I filed a police report with the military police just after it happened. I just havent had it towed yet to a mechanic. Also I`m wondering if you think ill just get the big shaft because I have a cold air intake even though its a mazdapart.

Any thoughts and input would be alot of help!! Sorry for poor spelling and grammer. I`m in the army you cant have high expectations for that kinda stuff :P

[alhope34]

That's a pretty extreme case..

Back in the summer driving home in Nova Scotia I was in bad enough rain I could barely see at 30km/h and part of the road washed out infront of me and my car never even stumbled or anything from water intake. Had to be at least a 2" thick blanket of water over the whole highway.

This video I was slowing from 50 to 40km/h before the rain got heavy.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c63/alhope34/th_100_2263.jpg (http://s25.photobucket.com/albums/c63/alhope34/?action=view&current=100_2263.flv)

[007]

As I said, unless you end up in 2ft of water, Hydrolock is not a problem.
I drove 90,000km with an Injen CAI on a 3 hatch GT, and never had any problems driving in winter rain and associated puddles etc., and drove through torrential rain storms, and again, the car ran just fine.

I have ordered a CP-e XCel intake from Street Unit (the Shiny Silver one), which I expect receiving by end of March.
I plan on custom fabricating an air filter (water resistent) to install inside the wheel well, just behind the wheel well vents. This will filter gross particles and also prevent water from being prayed on the filter.
Will also extend filter cleaning intervals.