German Castrol?

[Mazda3X2]

I was just wondering if anyone is using GC in a MS3? And if you are, what are your thoughts?

I am fast approaching my 3rd oil change and am thinking of using GC this time. My 1st change was with Amsoil which I found picked up a really strong solvent smell. The 2nd I used RP, no complaints. But I have heard and read many great things on the GC and want to give it a whirl. A common theme seems to be that not every car likes the stuff though. I also like the thought of running a 0W30 oil throughout the winter.

Any thoughts or experiences?

[alhope34]

I was just wondering if anyone is using GC in a MS3? And if you are, what are your thoughts?

I am fast approaching my 3rd oil change and am thinking of using GC this time. My 1st change was with Amsoil which I found picked up a really strong solvent smell. The 2nd I used RP, no complaints. But I have heard and read many great things on the GC and want to give it a whirl. A common theme seems to be that not every car likes the stuff though. I also like the thought of running a 0W30 oil throughout the winter.

Any thoughts or experiences?

Been using it for about 16,000kms now. It has only been great in my car. Nothing negative to say at all.

[Flagrum_3]

Don't have a Speed3 but switched to GC and running on it for 11k now...Seems to make the engine run smoother and more importantly 'quieter' then before!! Also I haven't noticed any loss in fuel economy as was anticipated by the 'thicker' 30 weight (especially since GC is closer to a 40 weight at normal operating temperature.)

I would think GC would be an excellent oil to use with the turbo and best part is it's actually a bargain compared to most 'True full synthetics' sold out there, @ $8.99 a litre and periodically on sale for $7.99L

Can't hurt to try it :)


_3

[Garu]

Don't have a Speed3 but switched to GC and running on it for 11k now...Seems to make the engine run smoother and more importantly 'quieter' then before!! Also I haven't noticed any loss in fuel economy as was anticipated by the 'thicker' 30 weight (especially since GC is closer to a 40 weight at normal operating temperature.)

I would think GC would be an excellent oil to use with the turbo and best part is it's actually a bargain compared to most 'True full synthetics' sold out there @ $8.99 a litre and periodically on sale for $7.99L

Can't hurt to try it :)


_3

Where do you find it at that price?

[OILm.ca]

Amsoil Solvent Smell ? - Who is your dealer ? * was it from me ?
Why you didn't contact your dealer asap ?

What Amsoil you used ? - What smell it was ?

If you got legit product ... I can't see anything like this happening .. could you please provide batch number of the oil that you used ...


GC Is great OIL .... but some of the UOAs don't look to color-full ....
One thing that its really thick 0w30 its close to being 0w40


OILM.ca

[Flagrum_3]

Where do you find it at that price?

Crappy Tire, Kingston Rd. & St.Clair.


_3

[Mazda3X2]

Amsoil Solvent Smell ? - Who is your dealer ? * was it from me ?
Why you didn't contact your dealer asap ?

What Amsoil you used ? - What smell it was ?

If you got legit product ... I can't see anything like this happening .. could you please provide batch number of the oil that you used ...


GC Is great OIL .... but some of the UOAs don't look to color-full ....
One thing that its really thick 0w30 its close to being 0w40


OILM.ca

I was using the Amsoil 5W30 ASL.

After about 1-2000km the oil smelled really strongly. Not like fuel, but like that of a solvent. It also went dark fairly quickly.

I contacted Amsoil online about the smell. They assured me that the smell was nothing and not to worry about the colour.

I never noticed anything in engine noise and never bothered getting a UOA. It still seemd to be doing its job.

[Flagrum_3]

I was using the Amsoil 5W30 ASL.

After about 1-2000km the oil smelled really strongly. Not like fuel, but like that of a solvent. It also went dark fairly quickly.

I contacted Amsoil online about the smell. They assured me that the smell was nothing and not to worry about the colour.

I never noticed anything in engine noise and never bothered getting a UOU. It still seemd to be doing its job.

I've heard of this before, read it on some forum and the person had contacted Amsoil too, with the same response.If I remember correctly the smell may have had something to do with the Amsoil mixing with the remnants of the previous oil, but on the next oil change the smell dissipated somewhat.But don't quote me on it :chuckle


_3

[TheMAN]

I use this stuff in my 3... works great and haven't had any problems with it with my 12000km drain intervals... I'm using this because it doesn't ever get driven hard so there's no sense is putting the really expensive stuff in there... my protege gets the red line goodness :D

[OILm.ca]

That only means that Amsoil was doing it best ... it went dark fast because it was doing some cleaning after previous oils....

I'm sure with next changes it would stay cleaner longer ...

If he provide me batch number we could trace exactly this oil that he used... Amsoil keep sample of the batch ... for future reference like this ...

I'm sure that your oil was fine ... Just don't smell it if you are worried contact your dealer ... Get a UOA done ...

TheMan :) If you shop smart you can get amsoil cheaper .. then GC ;)

There are some oils one the markets that are smelling like fruits :P If you like nice smelling oil :) Let me know its not a joke ;)

[TheMAN]

actually no... amsoil is still more expensive than GC here... and no offense, I don't like amsoil even though I agree it is a good oil

[OILm.ca]

actually no... amsoil is still more expensive than GC here... and no offense, I don't like amsoil even though I agree it is a good oil


I Guess that you are from US ? I'm not sure how much GC costs back there ...

That's fine ... There are heaters and lovers ... heaters they don't have anything to back up that Amsoil makes bad oils :) And lovers are lovers ...

I like all OIL company's ... Some less some more :) I like Amsoil because it makes outstanding products ....

[OILm.ca]

Redline products are expensive .. And Redline does not say anything about extending drive intervals ... So its so so expensive ...

But I have to Say Redline Is top of the Line with Amsoil

Quality of the Products and Communications with Customers ...

[TheMAN]

I Guess that you are from US ? I'm not sure how much GC costs back there ...

That's fine ... There are heaters and lovers ... heaters they don't have anything to back up that Amsoil makes bad oils :) And lovers are lovers ...

I like all OIL company's ... Some less some more :) I like Amsoil because it makes outstanding products ....
I guess I'm neither one :)
I said amsoil is a good oil, but it doesn't mean I like it either ;)

[TheMAN]

I'd love to put Redline in my MZ3 but it's expensive as hell here....Like $16 a litre, SOB :chuckle


_3
I get redline at wholesale price here :)

[OILm.ca]

I get redline at wholesale price here :)

And here anyone can get Amsoil at Wholesale price .. :)

And that ...http://www.performancemotoroil.com/AMSOIL_vs_Redline/image002.jpg

So I think I will stick with good old Amsoil :)

[Fuman]

And here anyone can get Amsoil at Wholesale price .. :)

And that ...http://www.performancemotoroil.com/AMSOIL_vs_Redline/image002.jpg

So I think I will stick with good old Amsoil :)
thats American Castrol

[Krisekca]

That was about Redline ... Should make it Clear ...

[MajesticBlueNTO]

And here anyone can get Amsoil at Wholesale price .. :)

And that ...http://www.performancemotoroil.com/AMSOIL_vs_Redline/image002.jpg

So I think I will stick with good old Amsoil :)

the test was conducted in January 1995 ....anything more recent?

[oneurt]

I just buy mobil1 and I don't complain.

[Mazda3X2]

This thread wasn't supposed to turn into a discussion on synthetic oils. That has been done, over and over again and to death.

I just wanted people's opinions on German Castrol who have used it or are currently using it. From what I have read on line it is one of the better synthetic oils out there that I have not had any experience with as of yet.

Thanks for the input guys.

[Fobio]

This thread wasn't supposed to turn into a discussion on synthetic oils. That has been done, over and over again and to death.

I just wanted people's opinions on German Castrol who have used it or are currently using it. From what I have read on line it is one of the better synthetic oils out there that I have not had any experience with as of yet.

Thanks for the input guys.

+1...it'd also be nice if opinions are not biased and commercially motivated...

keep it on topic about German Castrol...no one cares about any inferior oil that anybody who knows anything about a MS3 wouldn't run ie. Mobil1.

Personally, I'm going to try an inexpensive but quality full synthetic german oil @ 0w40. I have a feeling tho that GC is the way to go. I've been using PP and tho satisfied so far, not completely happy. And yes, I staretd off with M1, and thoroughly disappointed w/ seepage and solvent odour, and smoking issue.

[TheMAN]

why is it not a good idea to run 30 weight? you're not an engineer for mazda... the european service manual as well as the japanese owner's manual clearly states that 5W30 oil is perfectly fine for both the 2.0 and 2.3 motors... and the internals of the euro/japan engines are practically the same as ours.... same cams, same valvetrain, everything... surely you don't believe in the BS that dealers tell people that the engines are "too tight" for 30 weight oil to run right?

I have 55k on my engine and it's been running GC since the very first oil change at 5k... it runs FINE

[TheMAN]

let's get one thing clear
I stated something that is straight from the manuals
the newer 2.0 in europe has VVT, just like our newer 2.0s do

like I said already, the valvetrain is EXACTLY the same between all 3 major reasons (not counting australia) with or without VVT... SAME

furthermore, since the 2.3 non-turbo is only available in north america, japan, and australia, the valvetrain system is ALSO the same between these 3 regions... save for the higher compression ratio in the japanese version, all of the engines are the same!


so spare me the BS, the only reason why 5W20 is "recommended" here is because it is barely good enough to run in these engines and therefore was used in the EPA test cars to try to eek some better gas mileage numbers... because of american law requiring that whatever was equiped in the car (that includes fluids) during testing must be done the same on a retailed car, that is the reason why only north american 3s have "5W20" written on the oil cap (which is not there on oversea versions)

the reason why the system "fails" is because the entire timing system is "press fit" installed... there are NO keyways for the cam gears or the crank sprocket... the bolts loosen and goes out of time on some engines which causes catastrophic failure


so you're right I'm not an engineer for mazda, but I damn know what I'm talking about when it comes to these cars... I'll say it again if you missed it again... I read the manuals, which is about the same as hearing something straight from the horse's mouth!

[alhope34]

5w20 is not recommended at all for the MS3, you're posting in the wrong section lol! MS3 comes from factory with 5w30 and should ONLY be run on a 30 or 40 weight oil!


Also, there is no way for timing to go out unless the timing chain skips on the cam gears (which won't happen unless the chain snaps) and I believe these engines are non-interference which would mean said chain snapping wouldn't cause the pistons to hit the valves.


I've changed a few timing chains while working at Toyota and let me tell you...it takes an hour to remove the damn chain and almost 2 hours to get them back on again. One of them coming loose enough to skip would be a one in a billion type thing.

[Krisekca]

Hi Guys,

I asked AMI to delete Mark/OIL.m Posts, from this topic.
PS thank you for messaging. me about this situation ( I will not point who rat him out lol thx)
He should be posting from his own Account about topics not related to company ( Mark can be reached via email mark.w@oilx.ca I don't like idea of him posting here anymore haha )
I will clear some things with guys/girls using this account )

I apologize for OT.

To make this topic less OT.

GC - oil is top quality Group IV oil Made in Germany!
Its the only Oil that I use in my BMW! ( under warranty ) Well priced in Canada
it is one of the best Castrol Products that are available in Canada.
Unfortunately we didn't get Castrol EDGE which is available in US

[TheMAN]

5w20 is not recommended at all for the MS3, you're posting in the wrong section lol! MS3 comes from factory with 5w30 and should ONLY be run on a 30 or 40 weight oil!


Also, there is no way for timing to go out unless the timing chain skips on the cam gears (which won't happen unless the chain snaps) and I believe these engines are non-interference which would mean said chain snapping wouldn't cause the pistons to hit the valves.


I've changed a few timing chains while working at Toyota and let me tell you...it takes an hour to remove the damn chain and almost 2 hours to get them back on again. One of them coming loose enough to skip would be a one in a billion type thing.
these engines are interference... I've seen a few of them blow up because the cam gears loosened and caused the engine to go out of time and valves smacked into the pistons

like I said before, these engines don't have keyways for the cam gears or crank sprocket, they are press fit... if the bolts get loosened somehow, they go out of time... no warning, nothing... you can thank ford for cheaping this out

also, I apologize for the confusion about 5W20... my previous post was just regarding the 2.0 and 2.3 non-turbo engines... like I said, 5W20 was "recommended" purely due to american laws and mazda's attempt at getting better MPG ratings from the EPA (many other auto makers have been doing this... Toyota has been one of the hold outs)... it is in no way indicative that it is the only weight oil to run and that 5W30 works fine with those engines also per non-US/canada manuals


as for the VVT actuators going bad, it is rare that it happens... I've seen only a few over the years but still less than the sprockets slipping and going out of time... it could be different in different regions but that's just what I see here.... for non-turbos, it seems to be mostly a problem on 04 and early 05 models built before December 04 (with updated parts installed afterwards)... for turbos, there were issues with the early 07 builds that has been corrected with updated parts also.... FYI, turbo and non-turbo engines uses different VVT actuators

[Fobio]

these engines are interference... I've seen a few of them blow up because the cam gears loosened and caused the engine to go out of time and valves smacked into the pistons

like I said before, these engines don't have keyways for the cam gears or crank sprocket, they are press fit... if the bolts get loosened somehow, they go out of time... no warning, nothing... you can thank ford for cheaping this out

also, I apologize for the confusion about 5W20... my previous post was just regarding the 2.0 and 2.3 non-turbo engines... like I said, 5W20 was "recommended" purely due to american laws and mazda's attempt at getting better MPG ratings from the EPA (many other auto makers have been doing this... Toyota has been one of the hold outs)... it is in no way indicative that it is the only weight oil to run and that 5W30 works fine with those engines also per non-US/canada manuals


as for the VVT actuators going bad, it is rare that it happens... I've seen only a few over the years but still less than the sprockets slipping and going out of time... it could be different in different regions but that's just what I see here.... for non-turbos, it seems to be mostly a problem on 04 and early 05 models built before December 04 (with updated parts installed afterwards)... for turbos, there were issues with the early 07 builds that has been corrected with updated parts also.... FYI, turbo and non-turbo engines uses different VVT actuators

^^^quoted for some good info right there! thanks!

[alhope34]

Hm, well you're the first person who's ever said the MZR engines are interference.

And about VVT actuators... My dad's Yaris is recommended to use 5w30 oil and he's been using Mobil1 5w30 since 3000kms and at around 30,000kms the check engine light came on and around 65,000kms he finally took it in to get the light checked and turns out it was the VVT-i actuators that stopped working. So they replaced it under warranty.

[condor888000]

Hm, well you're the first person who's ever said the MZR engines are interference.

There was a big debate on here about it in the winter, and yes, they are interference engines. Link. (http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=30772&highlight=interference)

/threadjack

[TheMAN]

I pm'd this to kevcol and this answers everything:
http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showpost.php?p=388920&postcount=38

FYI, ALL of the protege engines are non-interference, all of the other old mazda engines (with none of that ford BS involvement) are non-interference EXCEPT for the F2 2.2l engine found in the 87-92 MX6/626 and the 80s B2200 pickup truck also

the gates catalog/website is WRONG... they can stick to making belts... they don't make engines, so wtf do they know? it's another example why the aftermarket world will always be behind in information or just outright wrong... when I installed cams in my protege, I rotated them round and round with no belt installed... everything was fine... people had their timing belt break (no matter which year) and everything was still fine after a new belt went on


so let's back on topic now ;)

[TheMAN]

also to make this very clear what a non-interference engine is... my OWN 93 toyota corolla's timing belt tensioner locked up a few weeks ago and the timing belt burned up/broke... I put a new tensioner and belt on and it's been running fine since