Replacement Clutch

[5_Alive]

Okay so I'm having my throw-out bearing replaced under warranty.
The dealer is giving me the option to replace the clutch, so I said go ahead, no worries. They gave me a great price on the parts. Its just the clutch kit, which is pilot, clutch cover(no idea wtf this is) and the clutch disc.

The flywheel is good, apparently on the MS3's you don't machine them. The pressure plate is good.

Here's my thing.. they said the clutch only has about 10k worth of life to it, but it grabs fine and hold's like a mother..
The car has 63k on it, and it seems odd that the clutch would already be on its way out.

I also asked if the throw-out bearing being gone to all hell would cause the clutch to wear, and it was a no from Mazda's end.

Any input/thoughts? I wish I had more time so I could have at least put in an aftermarket clutch in there. Hopefully I'm not over-paying.

$437, tax included.

Moe

[Karen Lee-McNair]

In most cases, the dealer or shop will offer the option to replace the clutch at the same time - it's just an opportunity for you to take advantage of.

This is the thing, if you require a clutch in 25,000 km from now, hey - you saved yourself money, if you don't - then you don't

who is to know?

It is a great option for customers to save money this way, but it's always up to the customer. 63,000km is tricky, it all depends on the driver. Some people are more aggressive drivers than others.

It's really up to you, here's hoping you made the best decision!

[Karen Lee-McNair]

why can't you supply the aftermarket clutch parts? if it is the same process, most dealers still won't charge you, but they will not warranty the parts either (fyi)

[gabbygenier]

why can't you supply the aftermarket clutch parts? if it is the same process, most dealers still won't charge you, but they will not warranty the parts either (fyi)

i vote for this also. if they have it apart. y not put a performance clutch it in.

[5_Alive]

The reason I'm not going performance is because I can't get it in time. He called me today at 12pm and said my deadline is 3pm to order anything from Mazda for it to come in tomorrow. The car was going to get put back together tomorrow afternoon.

I called a few shops and went looking online and couldn't find anything that I could have for tomorrow before 12pm.
So I called him back and had them go ahead and order the kit through Mazda, which I don't mind either.

It was a time line issue, not a parts issue. Correct on the warranty part with aftermarket, no doubt.

This dealer has always been great to me and I've never had an issue with them.
Even years ago when they did my Protege5, they gave me the option to replace the clutch but recommended I didn't because it still had 60% left.

My only concern is how was the car driven prior to me owning it. I don't beat my car nor ride the clutch or slip it. But it is what it is; I'm saving $800+ in labor a few months or a year down the road, and I don't mind that at all.

[gabbygenier]

all makes sense. at least you thought of it and tried haha

[5_Alive]

Lol oh yea I did. He even gave me the option, but warned if something happened, I'd have to pay the labor to remove and re-install if I chose to go back to the dealer if something went wrong.
The team has been great and I cannot complain at all. But strange how the clutch is so fantastic, yet has so little life left on it.
I'm just hoping originally it wasn't broken in properly.
Now if the clutch dies, I'm the one to blame.

[gabbygenier]

ya, i had to replace my clutch at 40000kms. same with me. i was moving to ottawa the next day so i have absolutely no time to look for after market cause they gave me the option too. told myself if it goes again im doing it haha.

i got the car used also so who knows how the ppl before drove it, if even they knew how to drive it. cost 1200 on a regular 3 so i bet its more for the speed. and now ive had that clutch in for 90000kms on it and still good.

[5_Alive]

Well, the labor is $800+ tax. The clutch kit is a bit more, but he gave me a discount for $437 tax included. At least I get my car tomorrow, and I break it in now.
Hopefully it'll hold until I'm done with the car.
Better to pay the $400 now then the $1500 or more later.

On a side note, a flywheel for the Speed3 is $941!! :bang

[gabbygenier]

thats awesome that you get it back so quick and a good deal. i didnt get a deal:flaming but it was done the next day though. thats all that matered to me

[5_Alive]

I can understand. They took it all apart today and let me know. Its not their fault, Mazda wont pay for that car to sit on the hoist, and other cars are waiting for them to make money off of.

So, out of my pocket tomorrow will come $437. I'm not happy, but again, better safe then sorry and costing me more in the long run.

[-cj-]

Nice deal... I doubt the clutch goes at 40k... They simply gave you guys the option of replacing it while in there. Not like your clutches were slipping right? I'm at 18k and it feels like I got the car yesterday... I can't see the clutch dying in another year..

So what's up with the fly wheel not needing maching? And what's that clutch cover?

[gabbygenier]

I doubt the clutch goes at 40k...

so ur calling me a liar haha. i saw them take it out of the car and show it to me. watched them so i know it was my clutch and not another cars

[5_Alive]

Nice deal... I doubt the clutch goes at 40k... They simply gave you guys the option of replacing it while in there. Not like your clutches were slipping right? I'm at 18k and it feels like I got the car yesterday... I can't see the clutch dying in another year..

So what's up with the fly wheel not needing maching? And what's that clutch cover?

Apparently on the MS3's you don't machine the flywheel. You simply leave it or replace it if its damaged (if the clutch rubs on the flywheel).

The clutch cover is the piece that sits between the clutch and flywheel I believe, something along this line.

I'll have the parts in about 1.5 hours when I go pick the car up. I'll keep you guys posted..

[alhope34]

So what's up with the fly wheel not needing maching?

We have a dual mass flywheel, which cannot be machined. If you need a new one you're out $940 plus tax.


That being said I'm now at 63,600kms, taught many, many people how to drive stick in my car, I'm the original owner, for the first 1600kms I made sure to make no hard starts and I never shifted above 3000rpm. Still holds like new.

[Malcolm991]

40k and 63k seem very premature for a clutch to be going!

[gabbygenier]

40k and 63k seem very premature for a clutch to be going!

i got the car used also so who knows how the ppl before drove it, if even they knew how to drive it. cost 1200 on a regular 3 so i bet its more for the speed. and now ive had that clutch in for 90000kms on it and still good.




My only concern is how was the car driven prior to me owning it. I don't beat my car nor ride the clutch or slip it. But it is what it is; I'm saving $800+ in labor a few months or a year down the road, and I don't mind that at all.



i guess were both liars if you dont believe us but both of us got the cars used so who knows

[Flagrum_3]

40k and 63k seem very premature for a clutch to be going!

It is very premature, but as the posters mentioned; 'Previous owners', which undoubtably did not know how to drive stick or use a clutch.

In 5_alive's case the bearing was toast meaning the previous owner liked to hold the clutch pedal down all the time, which is one way to kill a throw-out bearing very rapidly....

Great price on the clutch replacement by the way!

Did they replace the fork also or altleast inspect it closely?....these will wear oddly if the throw-out bearings are toast.


_3

[5_Alive]

Yep I made sure to have them check, re-check and check again. He said it was fine, same with the flywheel. The fork was all but $25, and he said it was good and there was no need to have it replaced. The clutch still had quite some life left on it, not too close to the screws/rivets, whatever the hell they are. But I'm not complaining either way. The car shifts MUCH better and engagement is a lot smoother than before.

As for the throw-out bearing, yea, weird. I never stay on the pedal at all. If I'm in the tunnel for example, Windsor-Detroit, I'll wait until there is enough room to get going on the up hill slant before getting on the clutch. There is hardly any roads in Windsor with rising slants.

The clutch cover is what I thought it may have been; the pressure plate. I guess some people use different names. The pressure plate wasn't even glazed or worn, the forks were still good as well. Kind of wish they hadn't replaced this as it was $200 for the part and it was still in good shape, but whatever.

All in all, it was a good deal. The clutch pedal is also a little bit softer now (in a good way). I was told it may stiffen up as the clutch breaks in, but who knows.

[-cj-]

so ur calling me a liar haha. i saw them take it out of the car and show it to me. watched them so i know it was my clutch and not another cars

LOL, no, not calling you a liar... I meant it as "Most MS3's won't fail that early". Clearly it was premature wear, probably (As you said) because the previous driver didn't know how to drive properly.

[zoomzoom33]

Dumb question, how do you know when your clutch and or throw out bearings is gone. My speed is the First manual car I've had, though I had taken lessons on driving a stick for a few months prior to picking up my car. I'm the first owner of the car and it now has 74000ks on it since I picked it up way back on sept. 2006. I don't ride the clutch nor has the car been driven hard, meaning never past 5000rpm and most of it is hwy kms. Sorry didnt mean to thread jack

[alhope34]

Dumb question, how do you know when your clutch and or throw out bearings is gone. My speed is the First manual car I've had, though I had taken lessons on driving a stick for a few months prior to picking up my car. I'm the first owner of the car and it now has 74000ks on it since I picked it up way back on sept. 2006. I don't ride the clutch nor has the car been driven hard, meaning never past 5000rpm and most of it is hwy kms. Sorry didnt mean to thread jack


Stop on a side street somewhere with little/no traffic. Hold the clutch down, put the handbrake on as hard as you can and hold 4000-5000rpm. Release the clutch all at once at 4000-5000rpm in 4th gear. If the rpm instantly drops and the car stalls, your clutch is fine. If it takes a while for the rpm to drop, push the clutch back in right away, you need to replace it.

[Flagrum_3]

As for the throw-out bearing you'll hear it! with the engine running shifter in neutral, parking brake on, depress the clutch pedal to the floor; you should hear a slight grinding/hissing noise, which will disappear once you let the pedal back up....with a good system there should be no noise whatsoever.

You could do what Al suggested, but you'd also notice a (severly) worn clutch disc by the fact you should notice you must rev higher to let her off from a standing stop and you periodically may smell the clutch material burning.....horrid smell!


_3

[5_Alive]

Also, get to around 40-50km/h, put it in top gear (5th normal MZ3, 6th MS3), and mash the throttle. If your car starts revving up without increasing in speed, your clutch disc is worn.

The throw-out bearing will chatter when your off the clutch pedal, and when you push in, the noise will go away, at least that is what mine did on quite a few occasions.

[Unoriginalusername]

Stop on a side street somewhere with little/no traffic. Hold the clutch down, put the handbrake on as hard as you can and hold 4000-5000rpm. Release the clutch all at once at 4000-5000rpm in 4th gear. If the rpm instantly drops and the car stalls, your clutch is fine. If it takes a while for the rpm to drop, push the clutch back in right away, you need to replace it.

no need to rev it up, just put it in 6th gear while idling and dump the clutch. a good clutch will kill the engine right away, a slipping clutch will sputter.

A slipping clutch will do so in higher gears, so if you are on the highway in 6th going up a hill and you give it some gas and the tach jumps you're clutch is gone... this is normally how most people spot it

[zoomzoom33]

Not to comfortable to drop the clutch at 4000rpm in 4th, I`ll try what UOU mention. Also why 4th or 6th grear, Should it stall right away like in 1st gear with a hard jerk.

[Unoriginalusername]

Not to comfortable to drop the clutch at 4000rpm in 4th, I`ll try what UOU mention. Also why 4th or 6th grear, Should it stall right away like in 1st gear with a hard jerk.

just because the car seems like a bull in first gear thats actually not a sign of a strong clutch. because of the gear multiplier the torque is actually far higher in a 6th gear than it is in first despite not being able to move.

The engine shouldn't fight to stay alive when you drop it in 6th gear, it should quickly shut off. if it sputters for a few seconds and then stalls you could have a clutch on its way out. The car should turn off like it does when you turn off the key... just dead, no drama or hard stuff

a clutch will start slipping under load in high gears before you notice it in first/second... when it gets to that point you're almost at the part of the story where the car will no longer move at all.

the matrix xrs was plauged with clutch problems from the factory, i and every other owner had several replaced under warranty so i unfortunately have way to much experience with what a dead clutch feels like on a new car.

a broken in clutch is not a dead clutch either, if you go drive a new ms3 it will feel a lot different... this doesn't mean your clutch is dead fyi. if you're worried about it, drive someone elses with similar km to see if it feels much cripser or softer to give you an idea how yours is doing

[zoomzoom33]

so I should let the clutch out quickly and not gradually right

[Unoriginalusername]

so I should let the clutch out quickly and not gradually right

pop your foot right off it and let it spring back as quick as possible. PS - your foot is on the brakes btw. The engine should stop much like it does when you turn of the key, if its a little jerky as if it tried to go forward and then died instantly that is good too. What you want to look out for is the trying to stay running coughing and sputtering before coming to a slow drawn out death. thats the clutch sign if you get that kind of result.

Like 5_alive had, usually through out bearings/pressure plates are equally worn as the clutch disc and you start getting a multitude of signs. a through out bearing will often make a spinning sound or like a lose piece of metal bouncing around in a can type sound when the clutch is released and or you accelerate and let off the gas in 1st or 2nd gear. the pressure plate will make the clutch feel really soft, and the clutch fork will make noise or feel awkward

[zoomzoom33]

I just did the test, and it stalled right away with a bit of a jerk. I had the brake and hand break on at the time. Thanks for the help, now i need to find out where im losing power from, thought it was my clutch at the time.

[Unoriginalusername]

I just did the test, and it stalled right away with a bit of a jerk. I had the brake and hand break on at the time. Thanks for the help, now i need to find out where im losing power from, thought it was my clutch at the time.

Glad to hear, thats what you want to happen. its the sudden arrival of summer, it'll be back in september i promise :chuckle ms3's don't like hot/humid weather or extreme cold.

[Vitamin M]

so ur calling me a liar haha. i saw them take it out of the car and show it to me. watched them so i know it was my clutch and not another cars


What a hell are these numbers.. Clutch dying out at 40 K .. ? ? ? ? I have 160 K on my 3 and i have never replaced any clutch part on it. You guys either dont know what your doing or mazda dealerships are trying to rip you guys off big time... Driving it properly a new clutch should last at least 170 K . This is non sense.

[Zoom Zoom Boy]

What a hell are these numbers.. Clutch dying out at 40 K .. ? ? ? ? I have 160 K on my 3 and i have never replaced any clutch part on it. You guys either dont know what your doing or mazda dealerships are trying to rip you guys off big time... Driving it properly a new clutch should last at least 170 K . This is non sense.

Dude, a few 'suggestions'...

One, if your clutch and components are defective, they will fail prematurely at any point. This is what defective parts do.

Two, agreed that under normal circumstances, a normal clutch with a decent driver should easily last 170K+ under street use.

Three, you are a noob to this site and I understand you want to up your post count. However, I really suggest you have a little more tact coming on here and in this section speaking in the manner you just did and implying the folks on here are essentially incapable and stupid. :AH's are given short thrift on this site.

[5_Alive]

Dude, a few 'suggestions'...

One, if your clutch and components are defective, they will fail prematurely at any point. This is what defective parts do.

Two, agreed that under normal circumstances, a normal clutch with a decent driver should easily last 170K+ under street use.

Three, you are a noob to this site and I understand you want to up your post count. However, I really suggest you have a little more tact coming on here and in this section speaking in the manner you just did and implying the folks on here are essentially incapable and stupid. :AH's are given short thrift on this site.

Thank you Sir..

Vitamin M, as discussed if you read through the earlier posts, a couple of us didn't own our cars from new. I've had many cars that were standard transmission, with no issues. But when my throw-out bearing fails, and the clutch is out, might as well have it replaced. If you read my posts, my disc still had good life left on it, and no wear to the flywheel or pressure plate, but I figured "what the hell", since everything was out and I may as well do it now to save on labour down the road.

[Vitamin M]

Dude, a few 'suggestions'...

One, if your clutch and components are defective, they will fail prematurely at any point. This is what defective parts do.

Two, agreed that under normal circumstances, a normal clutch with a decent driver should easily last 170K+ under street use.

Three, you are a noob to this site and I understand you want to up your post count. However, I really suggest you have a little more tact coming on here and in this section speaking in the manner you just did and implying the folks on here are essentially incapable and stupid. :AH's are given short thrift on this site.

I really did not say anyone is stupid.. but i have noticed that in North America driving stick seems to be more of a challenge for the majority of drivers compared to that of Europe. The thing about me being a noob is true. But the truth is i have never cared about posting anything on this forum for months. I am not trying to get any numbers up. I dont really care. I was searching on google about Exedy clutch kits and i STUMBLED across this Thread. And when i started reading i said i have to say something. 40 K seems too low but again if components FAIL.. then i guess it might happen at any millage. I wont be posting here for a while. Believe me i am not trying to get my post count up. Thats one thing you got completely wrong. :) I only post once in a while for my own interest.

Regards,

Vitamin M