New Mazda 3 hatch owner worried about oil filter....

[DjEclipse]

Hi all,

I we just got a 05 mazda 3 hatch last night. I was just looking here for visual differences between the 2.3L and the 2.0L engine and came across the thread about the 2.3L plastic oil filter housing being prone to failure = not so good.

What was Mazda thinking putting a plastic part on one of the most important systems of the engine? Especially with our cold climate, plastic going through heat cycles etc.

I read that there was a nice kit that converted the oil filter housing to the screw on type with the added bonus of an oil cooler built in to it.

http://www.streetunit.com/Spin_On_Oil_Filter_Conversion_Kit_MS6_MS3_CX7_p/sums6soofc.htm

What is the general consensus with this kit? Is this what everyone is using, is there something better out there? This kit seems pretty reasonable 60.00 for the piece of mind that the oil will stay in my engine where ti belongs.

Any feed back will be great.

Also, are there any other things, common problems etc. I should know about.

thanks,
Vince

[DjEclipse]

Also, is there a shop manual out there in PDF form for the mazda 3? I know back in the days when I used to have my Talon there was a down loadable shop manual in PDF format, it was great for torque specs etc.

[cwp_sedan]

You can try this online manual. http://www.ozmazdaclub.com/manuals/mazda3techmanual/

PM FLIPDADY (Joe) and ask him. You can get the spin on conversion kit from most dealerships (try one of our sponsors though for a discount).

[DjEclipse]

You can try this online manual. http://www.ozmazdaclub.com/manuals/mazda3techmanual/

PM FLIPDADY (Joe) and ask him. You can get the spin on conversion kit from most dealerships (try one of our sponsors though for a discount).

Thanks for the reply, and the link to the manual online.

I PM'd Joe.

Is the spin on conversion kit the same one I posted above with the oil cooler, or a different unit?

Is Joe one of the sponsors?

Thanks.

[JSI]

came across the thread about the 2.3L plastic oil filter housing being prone to failure = not so good.



What thread, I swear I read it somewhere before but couldn't find the thread while searching?

How common an issue is this?

Jeremy

[DjEclipse]

What thread, I swear I read it somewhere before but couldn't find the thread while searching?

How common an issue is this?

Jeremy

Just search for 2.3L oil filter

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=30318&highlight=2.3l+oil+filter

Plastic on any part of the car that goes through heat cycles (cold, to hot and back) is not good. regardless of how common it is I don't want to take the chance of having that piece of plastic fail. For 50.00 I feel it's better to be safe and do the conversion.

The thing that sucks is it just had an oil change before I picked it up yesterday, lol

What is the recommended oil and filter for the 2.3L? Also I assume you can use regular octane gas?

[JSI]

Just read through the thread. I think I'll get the spin on conversion done when I'm close to going out of warranty. (May 2010)

I would go to Mazda of Toronto and talk to Joe to get the work done.

Jeremy

[DjEclipse]

Just read through the thread. I think I'll get the spin on conversion done when I'm close to going out of warranty. (May 2010)

I would go to Mazda of Toronto and talk to Joe to get the work done.

Jeremy

I would, but I live in Niagara Falls. I am thinking I'll just order it form him and either install ti myself or have it installed by my mechanic.

[JSI]

Yeah North York is a bit far from Niagara.

[FLIPDADY]

PM replied.

That link you posted is the spin-on option for turbo models. I can get those as well if any speed owners are interested.

[DjEclipse]

PM replied.

That link you posted is the spin-on option for turbo models. I can get those as well if any speed owners are interested.

Thanks for the reply, and helping me out with the PM's.

I will probably order it form you as long as shipping isn;t to expensive.

[DjEclipse]

Here are pics of my car on the lot at the dealer.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y278/djeclipse/05%20Mazda%203/rear-1.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y278/djeclipse/05%20Mazda%203/front-1.jpg

[js1268]

the plastic filter housing is a terrible design.... i live in New England, and every oil change I've had the filter eventually would leak at the change of season from hot to cold, or vice-versa

it's september, and it just started leaking a week ago due to the abrupt change in temperature.... so i'm ordering a conversion unit

[js1268]

just changed out the filter and housing on my 2.3 for the conversion kit with spin on filter...very easy job, and well worth it!

[Gizzmo_jr]

I used the Mazda accessory oil wrench on my cartridge housing until my warranty went up. ASAP I converted to the spin on style.

I would highly suggest it, for peace of mind and saving your engine (literally).

[Dreamliner]

The infamous Downsview Auto Mazda3s. Was your's high mileage/rough condition by any chance?

[DjEclipse]

The infamous Downsview Auto Mazda3s. Was your's high mileage/rough condition by any chance?

It only seems to be "infamous" from people that didn't actually buy from them. People that have actually bought from them seem to have a much different opinion than yours.

Let me guess, you haven't actually bought form them yet you feel free to voice your misinformed ignorant opinion about them.

Here is my experience with Downsview Auto having actually purchased form them I believe my review holds 10x more weight than yours based on rumor and falls nothing short of slander.

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showpost.php?p=480037&postcount=161

Cheers.

[DjEclipse]

just changed out the filter and housing on my 2.3 for the conversion kit with spin on filter...very easy job, and well worth it!

Do you know the torque for the bolts holding the oil filter housing on? I bought the spin on oil filter kit and will be doing the conversion the next oil change.

Thx.

[DjEclipse]

Also, why can't I edit any of my posts??? I would think 30+ posts and a month or so here warrants the privilege of being able to edit the post.

Is there someone I have to talk to about this or do I have to post whore till i reach a higher number of posts?

[insaini]

50 posts to edit

[js1268]

Do you know the torque for the bolts holding the oil filter housing on? I bought the spin on oil filter kit and will be doing the conversion the next oil change.

Thx.

I checked everywhere i could "DjEclipse"....found nothing....local dealer didn't have a clue, either.... i bought mine from Mazdastuff.com...i emailed them but haven't heard back.... i went ahead and did it, anyway... i just made sure i tightened (didn't crank it, obviously) each bolt down consistently and used a cross pattern

....holding up just fine

[Cosmo77]

:pop

[DjEclipse]

I checked everywhere i could "DjEclipse"....found nothing....local dealer didn't have a clue, either.... i bought mine from Mazdastuff.com...i emailed them but haven't heard back.... i went ahead and did it, anyway... i just made sure i tightened (didn't crank it, obviously) each bolt down consistently and used a cross pattern

....holding up just fine

Ya, I looked at some of those online manuals and didn't find anything about the oil filter housing bolts (torque specs), in fact I couldn't even find a pic of the housing. I am wondering what goes in the other hole on the side of the housing, is it an oil line?

[DjEclipse]

Ok I found some written instructions with torque specs, cana nyone verify that these torque secs are correct?


I wrote this to a member in a PM, I hope it helps:

There are four (4) 10mm bolts that hold the cartridge oil filter housing onto the aluminum block (use a six point 10mm socket to remove these bolts, as they are on fairly tight, and the 6 point socket will prevent rounding off of the bolt head). Remove the stock housing and steel gasket (take note of how the little prongs around each of the 4 bolt holes are located.....Do they point into the housing, or into the block??) There is an oil psi sensor (7/8" I think) that is screwed into the oil filter housing. First you unplug the connection, then you remove the sensor from the housing while the housing is on your work bench.

At this point the old filter housing is off, and the new one replaces it. Clean off the mounting area with a clean rag and brake/carb cleaner. There will be no gasket material to clean off, because the gasket is made of steel.

First, use some teflon tape (found in the plumbing section at any hardware store) on the oil psi sensor's threads (two wraps max) this will prevent any leaks from occurring. Tighten the psi sensor onto the housing before the housing is installed to the block.

Next, use the new metal gasket that came with the kit, and install it the same way the other gasket came off regarding the little prongs around the bolt holes........You'll know it when you see it! along with the 2.0 filter housing onto the aluminum block. Lightly tighten the four (4) 10mm bolts, with no thread locker, because using thread locker will cause the bolt to seize since the block is aluminum and the bolts are hardened steel . Then torque each bolt down to 14ftlb's. (REMEMBER, YOU ARE TIGHTENING THE BOLTS INTO AN ALUMINUM BLOCK!!) Just take your time, and don't bear down on the 4 bolts like they are lug nuts! I have had no leaks in 30,000 miles, and I tightened mine by feel, and not a torque wrench. Reconnect the electrical connection for the oil psi sensor (just a plug in type connector) and you're done!

1) Ramps or jack and jack stands (never use just the jack while you're under the car!)
2) 6 point 10mm socket with ratchet and extensions to remove/install filter housing bolts
3) Teflon tape for installation of oil psi sensor
4) Crescent wrench, or 7/8" wrench (I think) to remove/install oil psi sensor
5) torque wrench, or a very good feel for bolt tightness by hand!!


Good luck, and it's not that bad at all. Should take under 1/2hr to make the swap.

Found it here http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=74254.0