Voltage question

[Brookzee]

I just installed my voltage gauge today, the install was very simple, i just hooked the power/ground to my aftermarket stereo wiring harness.



When the car is on at idle with no music on, I am reading 13.5-14V

Then if i listen to my stereo like I usually do, with the subs cranked up, every time the bass hits, my voltage will drop to 11-12V, then it will jump back up to 13-14V when there is no bass hitting.

Is this normal??

I always thought, even with no music on that my voltage should be 12V not 14V?


I have 2 questions.....

1) Shouldn't my idle be a 12V not 14V? And why is mine 14V?

2) Do you think adding a 2000watt power cell will help reduce the voltage drops when the bass hits? And will it reduce my 14V idle with no music as well?


Thanks in advance,
-Adam:)

[McGuyver_3]

Your car should be charging at 13.5-13.7v regardless if you are charging any higher i would be concerned of overcharging which would mean your alternator regulator is most likely gone. What is the size of your system in the car? You may need a alternator rebuild to pump out higher voltage for your heavy duty system.
Sorry to sound like an idiot but what is a power cell?

[Brookzee]

Your car should be charging at 13.5-13.7v regardless if you are charging any higher i would be concerned of overcharging which would mean your alternator regulator is most likely gone. What is the size of your system in the car? You may need a alternator rebuild to pump out higher voltage for your heavy duty system.
Sorry to sound like an idiot but what is a power cell?

Its either called a power cell, or a capacitor....

Heres what im talking about: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i202_2---2-9-farad.html


Thanks

[McGuyver_3]

AA yes i know what a cap is thats just another name i hadnt heard used for that thats why

[xxSlidewaysxx]

Add the capacitor. The problem is that you are drawing a large spike of power to drive your subs and your charging system just cannot deliver the amount of current that your amp is trying to draw. When the current draw is larger then the supply you get a drop in voltage. The capacitor will act as a small battery for your amp and should(?) reduce or eliminate the voltage drops.

[Hives]

Adding a cap will keep more of a constant voltage flow when heavy bass notes hit. It will be better for you electrical system too. If you haven't changed the factory battery to a deep cycle, do it. The factory battery is pretty useless if your running a system.

[McGuyver_3]

what is the size of your system?? 2000rms higher lower? That is important because anything in and around this area only a cap will not do you MUST upgrade the alternator. I have a customer with this large size system and has burned through three alternators and is now getting a upgrade.

[Hives]

Rule of thumb with the amount of watts your alternator can handle:

14.4V*90amp alternator= 1296 watts RMS (you system shouldn't exceed this amount on a Mazda 3).

[Brookzee]

i have two clarions each 650RMS, so i think when i add the cap it should stabilize the system

[Hives]

i have two clarions each 650RMS, so i think when i add the cap it should stabilize the system

The bigger the cap, the more stability. Since you like to bump your music, i'd go with at least a 4 Farad. Im running one 1000 RMS amp, and have a 4 farad cap, plus a red top under the hood.

[garboui]

Rule of thumb with the amount of watts your alternator can handle:

14.4V*90amp alternator= 1296 watts RMS (you system shouldn't exceed this amount on a Mazda 3).

minus the ignition system, engine controls, headlights and accessories.

[McGuyver_3]

Do yourself a favor and upgrade your alternator you WILL run in to problems otherwise

[xxSlidewaysxx]

Do yourself a favor and upgrade your alternator you WILL run in to problems otherwise

like he said:super smiley

[JashiK]

get a cap to begin with... take it from there.