Car shakes while idling

[Sinisa]

Hey I was wondering if anyone was having the problem I have.

My 2005 Mazda 3 GT sedan shakes while I am at a red light or when I am stopped and the engin is still running. It shakes once every 20 to 30 seconds and the RPM jumps to 1000rpm from 500rmp.

Did anyone eles have a problem like this or might know what is wrong?

[EvilEric]

You are not alone:

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=9846&highlight=rough+idle

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=23332&highlight=rough+idle

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=9909&highlight=rough+idle

Depending on how bad the shaking is, it could be a variety of possible things.

People have looked into Motor mounts, not pressing brakes hard enough, brake problem, need oil change, etc etc

[notoriousb]

Hey I was wondering if anyone was having the problem I have.

My 2005 Mazda 3 GT sedan shakes while I am at a red light or when I am stopped and the engin is still running. It shakes once every 20 to 30 seconds and the RPM jumps to 1000rpm from 500rmp.

Did anyone eles have a problem like this or might know what is wrong?

exact same problem I had , it ended up throwing a code eventually it was a misfire -- changed spark plugs it was gone.

[Sinisa]

exact same problem I had , it ended up throwing a code eventually it was a misfire -- changed spark plugs it was gone.

About how many KM did you have on ur car when you changed them?? I am at about 84000km

My check engin light also came on now!!

Hopefully new spark plugs will fix the problem!!

[TheMAN]

if it's doing the rpm bouncing, then I'd try replacing the spark plugs first... if it still doesn't fix it, it maybe a bad ignition coil

make sure you replace the plugs with the mazda ones.... they are NGK iridium plugs that last a long time and to make sure the car runs right

[notoriousb]

About how many KM did you have on ur car when you changed them?? I am at about 84000km

My check engin light also came on now!!

Hopefully new spark plugs will fix the problem!!

yeah mine is around 50 000.

[Sinisa]

Turns out the solinoid vacume pump wasnt working propertly! got that replaced and now the car runs perfectly!!

[Go_Habs_Go]

nice! glad to hear you got it worked out.

[trademark83]

I wish I had found out about this vacuum pump problem earliar, my warranty just expired. My car hasn't stalled again, only happened once, but I have seen the low shaky rpm.

[zedtech]

I've been having the same problem even after a spark plug change. I gotta look into this solenoid. DId you get it replaced under warranty?

[Sinisa]

No I just went to a mechanic I knew because Mazda wanted me to pay for them to check it again before they fixed it.

The part cost about $130 plus tax i think.

[jcutner]

im getting this again on my car :(

before, it was some hose or something that went into the stock airbox, but since it was fixed, the stock airbox is gone, and there is a CAI, and it seems like the shaking is resurfacing

[Darkfrosty7]

i had this and i replaced the engine mounts and it was fine after that

[jcutner]

i had this and i replaced the engine mounts and it was fine after that

how much does it cost to do this? and did you go with aftermarket (stronger?) mounts?

[rawbz]

i'm wondering how serious the shaking you guys experienced is? I have an 09 with only 19,000 km on it and have been experiencing something like this since practically day one.

Its not all the time.. maybe when the car is colder but it seems to just shudder every so often at red lights.

Asked the dealership about it and they said its just the car trying to run as 'lean' as possible.. is what you guys experienced a lot worse than what I'm describing? at least my car has never stalled from the dips in revs..

[CanSpeed 3]

Ive had this same problem for nearly a year. Got so bad my rpm dipped so low it actually stalled but kicked back up before it died completely, but only at a stop. Seemed to be worse if you were driving, then made a dead stop (red light). So today i went and bought a new purge valve from mazda 139.99 plus tax. Must be called the solinoid vacume pump to some. Idles better now. Easy to install yourself.

Any questions please pm, do ont get mazda to install it yourself if you have a set of wrenches at home :winner

[TheMAN]

it never is always the purge valve
a throttle body clean should be attempted first as they have been known to stick and cause stalling issues... also an ECU flash update has been out to help alleviate that problem

[CanSpeed 3]

Cleaned a week ago :chuckle


it never is always the purge valve
a throttle body clean should be attempted first as they have been known to stick and cause stalling issues... also an ECU flash update has been out to help alleviate that problem

[BoostieMonster]

i'm wondering how serious the shaking you guys experienced is? I have an 09 with only 19,000 km on it and have been experiencing something like this since practically day one.

Its not all the time.. maybe when the car is colder but it seems to just shudder every so often at red lights.

Asked the dealership about it and they said its just the car trying to run as 'lean' as possible.. is what you guys experienced a lot worse than what I'm describing? at least my car has never stalled from the dips in revs..

I have the same thing man, not a Rough idle as my RPM's do not change, just like you said, a slight shudder at the light. Its funny how everyone is getting different reasons from the dealership. One says "oh they're all like that don't worry", another says "trying to be lean", another says "The engine is just working in", "program needs updating".

[Google]

Ditto here as well. I've had it off and on since I got my 3. It appears certain conditions need to be present but I havent nailed them down. I've also had situations where the car would want to stall/die at a stop or red light. Dealer always comes back with No Fault Found. I'll just have to put up with it as I've got just another year or so before I trade my 3 in for something else.

[RNUOVR]

Chances are it's the purge valve - that was the case with mine - my car sounded like it has a .600 lift cam in it, almost stalled at every light, no CEL, nothing. I spoke to a local dealer who told me that they rarely clean out the throttle body as it's very rare that it's the cause of hte rough idle. I was told that 85% of the time this issue arrises it's the front Purge Valve. I cleaned out the Throttle Body never the less as I had the car in my buddys heated shop. I also swapped the plugs out, mine had 80k on them & the dealer told me that I could go to 120k on them, but after swapping out the purge valve on friday there was still a slight miss in the car that cleaned right out after swapping the plugs.

[Google]

In my case, it wasn't that constant. The dealer did clean out the throttle body under warranty. I never got the warranty paper on that. How long did it take you to clean it out? I imagine it must be a PIA process and expensive.

SInce mine isn't constant and the dealer isnt able to recreate the problem, they wont replace the purge or egr valve.

[urbanjoe]

Chances are it's the purge valve - that was the case with mine - my car sounded like it has a .600 lift cam in it, almost stalled at every light, no CEL, nothing. I spoke to a local dealer who told me that they rarely clean out the throttle body as it's very rare that it's the cause of hte rough idle. I was told that 85% of the time this issue arrises it's the front Purge Valve. I cleaned out the Throttle Body never the less as I had the car in my buddys heated shop. I also swapped the plugs out, mine had 80k on them & the dealer told me that I could go to 120k on them, but after swapping out the purge valve on friday there was still a slight miss in the car that cleaned right out after swapping the plugs.

Agreed. Mine had the same problem and it was the purge valve. Once I put a new one in it stopped shacking and the RPM where a lot smoother.

[Woodman316]

My 09 20,000 runs great.

[m_bisson]

this also happens if the freon in the a/c is at the wrong pressure. In the defog mode the a/c automatically turns on and off, causing the RPMs to spike or stall the car.

[xdutrax]

this also happens if the freon in the a/c is at the wrong pressure. In the defog mode the a/c automatically turns on and off, causing the RPMs to spike or stall the car.

This seems to be the case for my car. The car sometimes shutters while idling, but as soon as I turn the A/C off, it shutters and then stops. Once I turn it back on, it shutters and then continues afterwards.

[Buro]

My 2006 70000km Mazda 3 has also the same problem with shaking (rough idle) during stop on red light. Idle rpm drops down approximately to 600-650rpm; the problem is that it happens only 60-70% of the time which makes it difficult to troubleshoot.
Here are couple things I have noticed;
1. If I put the transmission in neutral while pressing on brake pedal the idle rpm is normal and there is no shaking?
2. when I leave the transmission in drive, pull the parking brake and remove my foot from the brake pedal, again the rpm rises to normal and there is no more shaking., if in the mean time I push the brake pedal again without releasing the parking brake the shaking comes back. Basically I could control my idle (or shaking) with brake pedal??
These two tests indicate to me that something is intermittently wrong with the vacuum system or/and computer program which controls idle rpm when the power brake is applied or released during red-light stop??
Only Mazda could definitely answer this rough idle question.

[07m3gt]

happens to my car too when i press the brake in drive the RPMs dip but the car doesn't shake. I told Mazda about it they said it could be the gas, temperature all kind of bull crap No Cel light oo nothings wrong with it.

[bhrm]

I'm going through this problem right now.

Its driving me nuts.

[timezwasting]

I have a 2005 70k gt

If it's purge valve, what code would CEL be throwing?
- Would you say this is a beginner DIY type replacement? If not, recommendations on garages to go to and how much it will cost?

If it's spark plugs, same as above, beginner DIY? garage/cost to replace?

I'm out in the AJAX area
Thanks!

[BlueJoe]

I had this problem aswell, get your engine mounts checked out! I had to replace all of them and one cost me $295 and the other was significantly cheaper but still expensive :bang

[Willow]

We had this issue. We brought it in the hooked it up to their computers. They said it was fixed. Nope! Brought it back in they gave our car a tune-up and changed the spark plugs and it's been good ever since.


Hey I was wondering if anyone was having the problem I have.

My 2005 Mazda 3 GT sedan shakes while I am at a red light or when I am stopped and the engin is still running. It shakes once every 20 to 30 seconds and the RPM jumps to 1000rpm from 500rmp.

Did anyone eles have a problem like this or might know what is wrong?

[whodaman]

I've had this problem for quite some time now and have been trying to troubleshoot as well. I have an additional problem that i think might be related (or not!). Mine is a manual, and at a light the car will shake and the rpms will drop from 1000 to 500...same as the OP. so now when this happens (and its intermittent), when i launch from the light the car starts to accelerate, but it bogs down quite significantly to the point where i have the ride the clutch because it feels like its going to stall out. I've tried to check the resistance in my coils, they are all within range, but i didn't get any resistance reading when i was testing the insulation of the boot..could this be the problem? I've cleaned the throttle body, checked my engine mounts, replaced the plugs and this problem is still present. Any suggestions??

[07m3gt]

I've had this problem for quite some time now and have been trying to troubleshoot as well. I have an additional problem that i think might be related (or not!). Mine is a manual, and at a light the car will shake and the rpms will drop from 1000 to 500...same as the OP. so now when this happens (and its intermittent), when i launch from the light the car starts to accelerate, but it bogs down quite significantly to the point where i have the ride the clutch because it feels like its going to stall out. I've tried to check the resistance in my coils, they are all within range, but i didn't get any resistance reading when i was testing the insulation of the boot..could this be the problem? I've cleaned the throttle body, checked my engine mounts, replaced the plugs and this problem is still present. Any suggestions??


Did you check your Maf wires? sounds like that to me

[whodaman]

Did you check your Maf wires? sounds like that to me

well i removed the MAF and cleaned it with some electrical contact cleaner, it was pretty dirty...also I've cleaned my K&N filer recently as well.....I also forgot to mention that i seem to be going through about a liter of Oil every 2500Km or so (not sure how i forgot to mention that)

[07m3gt]

ya some these Mazda`s drink oil does it smoke a lot it ? Sometimes the wire harness to the Maf get shorted and cause bogging very common problem.

[whodaman]

ya some these Mazda`s drink oil does it smoke a lot it ? Sometimes the wire harness to the Maf get shorted and cause bogging very common problem.

nope no smoking. what is the best way to check if the wires to the MAF are shorting out? just check to see if there is continuity?

[07m3gt]

what most people do is start the car and play with the wires to the maf and listen for a change in the engine sound. Or even let someone rev the car not to much and play with them if the engine changes in sound its one of the wires

[09GT]

I have this issue as well that has been driving me nuts. As whodaman says, you really have to give it more gas or ride the clutch slightly longer because of the low rev idle. I took it to the dealer this morning (for an oil change, and to fix a squeaky clutch pedal as well), and they could not replicate the idle issue...They said that they drove it for 20km and could not replicate or get any codes from the car. I am picking it up in about 2 hours....if it idles strange when I take it home, somebodygonnagetahurt realbad ;)

Any pictures/steps to replace the purge valve? Part numbers?

Thanks!

PS - My car only has 17,000 km on it, and the rough idle has been present since about 12,000 km.

[09GT]

I found the Service Manual...disregard my previous question!

[philipfreire]

sorry a bit off topic but.. squeaky clutch pedal? like u can hear the clutch depressing on the inside or outside of the car?

[09GT]

sorry a bit off topic but.. squeaky clutch pedal? like u can hear the clutch depressing on the inside or outside of the car?

It was just a pedal sqeauk from inside the car. When I picked up the car, they stated that they lubed it, and the noise was gone. I go in the car, and the &&*#&$* pedal now CLICKS (like a pen click) twice on each press and depress. Totally more annoying and unacceptable. I march back in and speak with the service manager, and explain how deaf or lazy the tech must be to leave it like that, make it worse, and write it's resolved in the invoice.

I ended up having to wait 2 hours for them to replace the clutch pedal assembly. No more noise.

...the shake at idle is still apparent though. Their tech did not notice this when he went for the test drive. Not sure what else to do. The car is not showing any codes, and they (well at least they say they did) inspected for vacuum leaks, purge valve, throttle body. Not sure what else to do..

Cheers!

[Squib]

I just had my car serviced for shaking at idle. Had them look at the engine mounts which were fine so they suggested a throttle body/maf sensor clean. Pulled off the throttle body and it was really dirty. Car doesn't shake anymore.

[dj_adamix]

Ive had this same problem for nearly a year. Got so bad my rpm dipped so low it actually stalled but kicked back up before it died completely, but only at a stop. Seemed to be worse if you were driving, then made a dead stop (red light). So today i went and bought a new purge valve from mazda 139.99 plus tax. Must be called the solinoid vacume pump to some. Idles better now. Easy to install yourself.

Any questions please pm, do ont get mazda to install it yourself if you have a set of wrenches at home :winner


True, had the same issue with my mazda 3.
cleaned TB- issue still there,
Replaced purge selenoid - fixed 'almost stalling' problem

It seems better now but car still shakes on idle. I dont know what the problem could be, maybe EGR valve ???

At least it doesnt stall anymore, purge was bad and im sure of it, after replacing it it was stuck open i could blow air right through it.

[Squib]

True, had the same issue with my mazda 3.
cleaned TB- issue still there,
Replaced purge selenoid - fixed 'almost stalling' problem

It seems better now but car still shakes on idle. I dont know what the problem could be, maybe EGR valve ???

At least it doesnt stall anymore, purge was bad and im sure of it, after replacing it it was stuck open i could blow air right through it.

Did you get your engine mounts checked? If not, that may be the issue.

[dj_adamix]

No i havent checked em, but i think that might be it, it didnt shake that much when i got the car 6 months ago, now it seems worse at lower rpm, so it has to be it,
But regardles how bad engine mounts are my rpm shouldnt dropp to 500-600rpm.

while vehicle is in motion and i put it in neutrat rpm stays around 800-900, then soonest i stop after maybe like 10 sec it drops to 500-600.
Bad engine mount wouldnt cause it to drop.

[rockhead]

Got the same problem. Cleaned the TB and MAF which solved the idle hunting between 750 - 500 prm, but car shakes while idling and suddenly drops down to below 500 rpm before the ECU kicks it back higher - almost stalls. Went to the local dealer parts guy, but he insists that a bad purge valve would throw a code, which mine hasn't yet. The engine mount SEEMS to be ok as you cannot feel any engine vibs at the bolt locations, but I may replace based on results from replacing purge valve. BTW does anyone know where I can find a good parts dept in the GTA? The guy at Ajax Mazda doesn't seem to know what part no. will fit my '05 2.3?

[zmz3]

Got the same problem. Cleaned the TB and MAF which solved the idle hunting between 750 - 500 prm, but car shakes while idling and suddenly drops down to below 500 rpm before the ECU kicks it back higher - almost stalls. Went to the local dealer parts guy, but he insists that a bad purge valve would throw a code, which mine hasn't yet. The engine mount SEEMS to be ok as you cannot feel any engine vibs at the bolt locations, but I may replace based on results from replacing purge valve. BTW does anyone know where I can find a good parts dept in the GTA? The guy at Ajax Mazda doesn't seem to know what part no. will fit my '05 2.3?

This might be a little late, but Mazda of Toronto has a great parts department and you can save up to 20%. Good luck!

[mazda3girl]

Hey Same problem here, Car Shakes and idles low then jumps then drops. Was stalling, tried running some premium fuel and fuel injector cleaner, ran a little better for a while, eventually started stalling again. Also has very hard time starting after filling up gas...

Cleaned EGR valve and replaced Evap purge valve
Doesnt seem to be stalling right now, only the shudder and floating RPM's are still happening when not in gear and at idle.

This problem is driving me nuts, its a manual 2004 with 108k on it.

Any other thoughts? Im going to look into the MAF and the throttle body...

[dj_adamix]

Hey Same problem here, Car Shakes and idles low then jumps then drops. Was stalling, tried running some premium fuel and fuel injector cleaner, ran a little better for a while, eventually started stalling again. Also has very hard time starting after filling up gas...

Cleaned EGR valve and replaced Evap purge valve
Doesnt seem to be stalling right now, only the shudder and floating RPM's are still happening when not in gear and at idle.

This problem is driving me nuts, its a manual 2004 with 108k on it.

Any other thoughts? Im going to look into the MAF and the throttle body...


heyyy i had the same issue.

Turned out it was my purge selenoid valve that was stuck open so every time i filled up gas it would stall righ away. test it, you can have it running and take out your gas cap, if it starts dropping rpm and almost stalling, thats where your problem is.
If not then look into your throttle body and clean it with canadian tire cleaner in spray. that stuff just dissolves all the gunk.

i did all of it and wazs able to fix the problem but my rpm still idles around 500-700. im not worried about that, lower idling rpm means less gas used so w.e .

[dj_adamix]

Got the same problem. Cleaned the TB and MAF which solved the idle hunting between 750 - 500 prm, but car shakes while idling and suddenly drops down to below 500 rpm before the ECU kicks it back higher - almost stalls. Went to the local dealer parts guy, but he insists that a bad purge valve would throw a code, which mine hasn't yet. The engine mount SEEMS to be ok as you cannot feel any engine vibs at the bolt locations, but I may replace based on results from replacing purge valve. BTW does anyone know where I can find a good parts dept in the GTA? The guy at Ajax Mazda doesn't seem to know what part no. will fit my '05 2.3?

Hey my purge selenoid vlve did not throw a code for a long time. it did after a month of stalling so you dont have to have a code thrown at you. there is a easy way to check it which i described in my previous post. other way to check it would be disconnecting the hose that goes from the valve to your heat shield and see if you can feel the vacuum . if you can then its bad. but again those valves do work 60% of the time even if they are faulty so sometimes it would close how it supposed to and sometimes it would become stuck. you can try taking it out and cleaning it with some gunk cleaner , just spray some inside and it might help for a bit. but i know there have been many revisions of that valve because of this problem. so its recomended you get a newest part straight from the dealer. its not worth byin it from anywhere else cuz u might get older revision which will do the same thing after few months.

[dcox]

My 2005 Mazda 3 80,000 was stalling when idling low.( red lights, stuck in traffic )
The only way to prevent stalling was to drop it into neutral and bring the rpms up. I bought the Purge Valve from autopartswarehouse.com for 70.95. I changed the part in about 15 minutes. It couldn't have been easier to do. The dealer wanted at least one hour plus 120 for the part.

[zmz3]

My MZ3 2007 GX was rough idling at red lights and stop signs. Mileage was around 81,000km's, I read and searched here, it seemed the cheapest thing to do at the time to see if it works, is a Throttle Body clean. Got that done, and the rough idle is gone.

I will update if anything changes and/or the rough idle resumes.

[hfdayc]

i got same problem few months ago.

i search the web and find the Thread.


Just change the #3engine mount, i got from dealer around $120, changed at Street Performance. Problem solved

[thepik]

Hey guys,

Recent I got a 2004 Mazda 3 with 74,000 KM.

Over the past few days I realized while I am at a red light or stop sign the cars rpms hover just under 1000 (maybe 7-800 and sometimes around 5-600) and it sort of starts to shake and run rough.

During drive its fine and idling while in park seems to be fine although I haven't really monitored it.

Thanks
Shawn

[Aenema]

I had the same issue about 18 months ago and did a throttle body service along with my oil change. That fixed the problem.
Its happening again now, not sure if i need to a TB done again or perhaps its the engine mount that needs to be changed. Will be taking the car in for service and will advise.

[stefanb]

What's the part # for the valve?

[DumpInfo]

i got same problem few months ago. Just change the #3engine mount, i got from dealer around $120, changed at Street Performance. Problem solved

+1 - I had the same problem when I had my 3 could be the engine mount!

Mine still shakes now but it's a deeezeeel!

[Cab0oze]

Mazda3s tend to shake a lot when idling because they want to be driving and get impatient just sitting around.






:chuckle

[Stathakos]

I just did a throttle body service today and I no longer have any shaking/idling rough

[mcf_24]

well crap I created another thread on this exact problem.


I changed my battery other day and after that in drive at stop lights RPM is dipping really low and is about to stall.

Never had problem before that. It was the original panasonic battery that came with 3 lasted good 6 years.

[sarujo]

you need to clean the throttle body and MAF sensor and then reset the ECU - disconnect battery routine...


well crap I created another thread on this exact problem.


I changed my battery other day and after that in drive at stop lights RPM is dipping really low and is about to stall.

Never had problem before that. It was the original panasonic battery that came with 3 lasted good 6 years.

[TheEngLife]

I've had this problem in my 2014 since new (Bought in June 2014, 22000 km on it now) and have been annoyed by it, but haven't said anything to the dealer yet. I am taking it in to be serviced tomorrow and maybe I will ask them to look into this issue while the car is in. It's weird that it would happen on a brand new car.

[thirdgen3]

Mazda3s tend to shake a lot when idling because they want to be driving and get impatient just sitting around.






:chuckle

El o el...

[Stathakos]

Thanks for reviving this thread. I did it about 11 months ago and I'm starting to feel the rough idle come back.

Also does anyone know if cleaning the air filter will extend the interval needed for TBC?

[Zotaga]

Thanks for reviving this thread. I did it about 11 months ago and I'm starting to feel the rough idle come back.

Also does anyone know if cleaning the air filter will extend the interval needed for TBC?

1) Passenger Engine Mount
2) Spark Plugs/Misfire
3) MAF Sensor (Clean It)

Also, when unhooking the battery, you need to turn on the car and let it idle for 5-10 minutes.. touch nothing.. let the car re-learn the idle..

That's just from my experience..

[Daylindafung]

Hey I was wondering if anyone was having the problem I have.

My 2005 Mazda 3 GT sedan shakes while I am at a red light or when I am stopped and the engin is still running. It shakes once every 20 to 30 seconds and the RPM jumps to 1000rpm from 500rmp.

Did anyone eles have a problem like this or might know what is wrong?

Mine does the same thing after a warm day one hour drive. the rpm moves up and down a bit too. I never bothered to check out on that lol

[Zotaga]

Mine does the same thing after a warm day one hour drive. the rpm moves up and down a bit too. I never bothered to check out on that lol

Passenger engine mount.. put a jack under your engine, lift the engine slightly, remove the bolts and pull it out and take a look at it.. if the rubber is separated, that's your problem.

It stops the vibration at least.. but the RPM thing will still happen.. mine drops and jumps too.. it might need an ECU upgrade..

[ssolidd]

Mine was shaking intensely along with the NOISE driver and passenger side seats feels like having a built-in back massager this is due to my upgrades jbr Duro 80a passenger side mount,jbR Duro 80a rear mount, transmission mount is stock driving it feels like nissan maxima and eats gas alot due to powerful launch and stiffer engine.

My racing days are over preferred the calm and peaceful driving downgraded to stock passenger mount again but still keep the jBr rmm now it feels like driving an accord : p :headbang:bana2:chuckle:cool .

[Charles]

After many month having this shaking problem and wasting money on expensive parts I found this,,, disconect the brake switch , press the brake and there is NO MORE Shacking,, today Im going to make some test on those brake cables, does anyone know where this brake switch goes to the computer?

[Charles]

After many month having this shaking problem and wasting money on expensive parts I found this,,, disconect the brake switch , press the brake and there is NO MORE Shacking,, today Im going to make some test on those brake cables, does anyone know where this brake switch goes to the computer?
Following the brake switch cable it goes to the fuses down the glove compartment,,, the is a red cable with yellow line and gray dot,, disconect it and the problem is gone.... Only that the shift stop working , so i believe is the PJB damage

[Rick1999]

Following the brake switch cable it goes to the fuses down the glove compartment,,, the is a red cable with yellow line and gray dot,, disconect it and the problem is gone.... Only that the shift stop working , so i believe is the PJB damage

Hello did someone found a fix, mine is doing the same thing
When I remove the brake fuse the idle is pefect in drive
Did change everything on it