How to install HIDs on 04-06 Mazda 3

[stevenma188]

In case you aren't already aware of this, the 04-06 Mazda 3 uses the same bulb for the low-beam headlight as well as the Daytime Running Lights (DRL). This causes some problems with the installation of aftermarket HID kits, causing the bulbs to flicker. There are several workarounds, including splicing into the parking lights, disabling DRL, using a premade anti flicker device etc. After much research, I found that you can use a DIY solution, all while retaining DRL function, and no splicing of stock wiring.


Required things:
1. HID Kit with Relay Harness - I ordered mine from Import Tuning (sp3GT)
2. 4700 µF Capacitor - I used a 16V one, although 35V will also work
3. ~1hr time

Part 1: What is included in the HID kit, and a review of the Import Tuning kit
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/StevenMa188/TM3/IMG_0761.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/StevenMa188/TM3/IMG_0766.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/StevenMa188/TM3/IMG_0768.jpg
2 Slim ballasts - I was surprised how "slim" the ballasts were. Most pictures I've seen of other kits came with much larger ballasts.


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/StevenMa188/TM3/Harness.jpg
Relay Harness


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/StevenMa188/TM3/IMG_0762.jpg
Bulbs x 2 - I ordered 8000k


Part 2: Prep work
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/StevenMa188/TM3/Harness.jpg
Relay Harness



http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/StevenMa188/TM3/Bulb.jpg
Bulb - You need to cut up the rubber piece holding the 4 wires together, separating the bulb from the other set of wires. You will only need the wires off one bulb, but keep both rubber pieces and use them as bulb spacers. Slip the rubber piece behind the back of the bulb in lieu of the H7 bulb spacer.

[stevenma188]

Part 3: Actual Installation
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/StevenMa188/TM3/IMG_0770.jpg
Stock Halogen lighting (with fogs on)

1. Run red power wire into the battery compartment using existing opening (do not connect yet).
2. Plug in the signal wire taken from the bulb into the battery side stock headlight plug. Wrap the capacitor leads around the plugs. Be aware of polarity on the plugs (Black to black), as well as the polarity of the capacitor (Side with stripe and "-" sign is negative). Wrap the whole thing with electrical tape.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/StevenMa188/TM3/IMG_0772.jpg
3. Plug signal wire into harness, plug ballasts into harness, Mount the ground terminals to any bolt on the car that is in contact with something metal on the car. It is up to you where you mount it for ease of running the cables. Plug bulbs into ballasts. (I forgot to take a picture of my wiring, I will probably do that later)
4. Attach the positive terminal of the harness onto the positive terminal on the battery
5. Test it out.
6. Tidy up all your wiring.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/StevenMa188/TM3/IMG_0776.jpg
End result (With Nokya Hyper Yellow fogs)


Installing Nokya Hyper Yellow H11 Bulbs
As for installing the Nokya Yellow bulbs, I had a total brain fart today. I undid the panel and the wheel well, and got access to the bulb, but for the longest time couldn't figure out how to remove the bulb. I found a guide for changing the bulb, and briefly looked at the pictures. For some reason I couldn't turn the bulb. I got frustrated and ended up pulling the entire front bumper off. Turns out, you can't turn the bulb unless you unplug them first. :bang:bang:bang:bang:bang:bang:bang:bang:bang:bang :bang:bang:bang
Otherwise, changing the fog bulbs would be super easy, just be prepared to get a bit dirty when you reach under to get at the bulb. (I don't know why I can't find the guide for changing the bulb right now, I believe it was from M3F. I will look for it when I get home and check my history)


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/StevenMa188/TM3/IMG_0775.jpg
Here is a picture with the Nokya installed in the left, and stock in the right. Although the camera wasn't able to pick up the difference, the Nokya were very yellow.

[yearoftherat]

Nice write up..FYI the premade anti-flicker device is also a capacitor.
If you see my write-up here: LINK (http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=34422) its basically the same...no splicing of stock wires,etc.

Also in regards to installing the H11 fogs, I've never had to remove the bumper/ unplug them to swap the bulbs.

[stevenma188]

Ya, I was just being stupid and didn't figure out that you have to pull the plug first before twisting the bulb out.

[urbanjoe]

I have an 05 with HIDs and the only problem I have with flickering is when I put it to the "auto" function. If you don't mind turning the lights on manually every time then you wont have a problem with flickering, or as already stated put in a relay or anti-flicker.

[stevenma188]

Ya, basically my method is to DIY an anti-flicker device.

[stevenma188]

As promised, pictures of my ballast placement:



http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/StevenMa188/TM3/IMG_0779.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/StevenMa188/TM3/IMG_0782.jpg
Driver Side


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/StevenMa188/TM3/IMG_0781.jpg
Passenger Side


Here are some more pictures of the lighting:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/StevenMa188/TM3/IMG_0783.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/StevenMa188/TM3/IMG_0785.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/StevenMa188/TM3/IMG_0787.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/StevenMa188/TM3/IMG_0788.jpg

[Rob23]

i still dont understand how these fit into your headlights do you have to modify them?

[stevenma188]

^ sorry are you referring to the rubber piece I used as a bulb spacer?

[Rob23]

the bulb, do you remove that clear plastic cap off it or somthing?

[stevenma188]

Ya that clear plastic cub is only used to protect the bulb during transit.
http://www.imazda.com/mazdaracer/Mazda3/HID/HID20.jpg
That picture shows it a bit better. For our car, see, the black piece behind the bulb, thats a required spacer. I just used the rubber piece that came with the bulb instead of buying one.


http://www.supplierlist.com/photo_images/126122/H7_HID_Xenon_Lamp.jpg
Here is what the bulb looks like without the protective case.

[Rob23]

so the bulb fits in the same way, with the pin to lock it down and the ruber seal and plug?

[stevenma188]

Yup it fits in the same way. However, there will be a gap between the metal base of the HID bulb and the retainer clip, hence the need for a spacer.

[Rob23]

im just using the regular hid h7s and they always burn out in like 6 months, drives me crazy. will the bulbs that come with the kit last at least a couple years?

[stevenma188]

Your "regular HID H7" are actually just normal Halogen bulbs with a bluish tint on it. These should last longer than those fake HID bulbs. My kit came with 18 month warranty.

[sp3GT]

im just using the regular hid h7s and they always burn out in like 6 months, drives me crazy. will the bulbs that come with the kit last at least a couple years?

I sold this kit to Steven, and I can assure you it will last a few years for sure.

And all our kits come with a 1.5 yr warranty, so you won't be disappointed.

[Rob23]

Your "regular HID H7" are actually just normal Halogen bulbs with a bluish tint on it. These should last longer than those fake HID bulbs. My kit came with 18 month warranty.

i know they're not real HID, very much considering this tho. thanks for the info


I sold this kit to Steven, and I can assure you it will last a few years for sure.

And all our kits come with a 1.5 yr warranty, so you won't be disappointed.

sounds good, ill probably be gettin this for my next mod.

[htc***]

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/StevenMa188/TM3/Harness.jpg

I just curious.

1) How many relay harness do you install? 1 or 2.
2) Does your HID also use at a DRL for daytime and regular headlight for nightime/whenever you turn on the light.

Thanks.

[yearoftherat]

1) You only need one relay harness.
2) B/C he used a DIY capacitor, the HIDs are now his DRLs. The output will the same when you turn the light switch on.

[stevenma188]

Thanks YOTR.

[sp3GT]

Just wondering if you're using the capacitor in place of the relay harness, can that be wired somehow to use high beams as DRL for 04 - 06 cars?

Or would you still need a 2nd relay to achieve that?

[yearoftherat]

Just wondering if you're using the capacitor in place of the relay harness, can that be wired somehow to use high beams as DRL for 04 - 06 cars?

Or would you still need a 2nd relay to achieve that?

IIRC, he used the cap with the relay. Look at my thread to see how its hooked up: LINK (http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=34422)

AFAIK no one has tried to hook up their High beams as DRL on 04-06 cars.

[stevenma188]

Ya, I hooked up the cap to the relay.

[sp3GT]

IIRC, he used the cap with the relay. Look at my thread to see how its hooked up: LINK (http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=34422)

AFAIK no one has tried to hook up their High beams as DRL on 04-06 cars.

I thought RedRaptor did?

[Thrizzl3]

I thought RedRaptor did?

he did..and steven has that mod too..

[stevenma188]

wait, the mod to make my highbeams my DRLs? I do not have that.

[yearoftherat]

he did..and steven has that mod too..

Rob had the high beam DRL mod IIRC, he no longer had it.

[htc***]

I still confuse and I just want to make it clear.

Parts:

1) 2 ballasts and 2 bulbs for each side.
2) 1 relay hardness.
3) Capacitor (How many do you use? 1 or 2)


Installation on passenger side:

1) Bulb goes to light housing
2) Connect bulb wiring to ballast.
3) Connect ballast to stock wiring.
4) Anything else ??????


Installation on driver side:

1) Same #1 and #2 on passenger side.
2) Connect ballast to relay.
3) Connect relay to capacitor.
4) Connect capacitor to stock wiring.
5) Which wiring to connect to battery terminal ???


This is the way you had installed you HID or vice versa. Please correct if I have made a wrong connection. I will do it later and thanks all of you help.

[stevenma188]

Parts:

1) 2 ballasts and 2 bulbs for each side.
2) 1 relay hardness.
3) 1 4700uF Capacitor


Installation on passenger side:

1) Bulb goes to light housing
2) Connect bulb wiring to ballast.
3) Connect ballast relay harness


Installation on driver side:

1) Same as step #1 - 3 on passenger side.
2) Connect relay signal wire to stock harness on driver side. Then take the capacitor and connect it in parallel to the relay/stock harness
3) Connect the red power cable of the harness to the positive terminal of car battery
4) Connect the ground point to any metal part of the car. For my relay, there are 2 separate grounding points, one for each side. I just undid a bolt on the front of the car, and put the terminal underneath and redo the bolt.

[htc***]

Thanks again for all your help. I will try to install it later.

[htc***]

I have a CAP like this one http://www.aurora.com.hk/HID/warning_canceller02.jpg

and how do I hook it up to the relay hardness ?

[stevenma188]

Since u are using a relay harness, attach the CAP to the signal source plug of the harness, and then attach the other end to the stock headlight plug.

[htc***]

Your signal source's plug is different of mine (my plug look like small electrical household plug) that why I'm little bit confuse but I think I get it now. Thanks again.

[stevenma188]

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/StevenMa188/TM3/Bulb.jpg

Use the other wire from the bulb, and plug the 2 pronges into the stock plug, and then plug where it says "To relay harness: Signal Source" into the anti-flicker device.

[htc***]

One more thing, you only use 1 side of OEM halogen harness and the other you left un-touch. Right?

[stevenma188]

That is correct.i good idea would probably wrap the other side up with tape or something to prevent water from getting in there.

[Souls]

Hello Everyone,

I'm a virgin to Mazda, been with VW 10 yrs, please forgive my ignorance as I've just join the site.

I've read this thread, but I can't figure out where this spacer goes, does anyone have a pic? or maybe this night shift is messin' with me and I can't think straight. Wiring it up is a cake walk. Are no other mods to the housing required? the cutoffs look hot, but I thought the arc in the HID bulb might put it in a slightly different position than where the halogen filament is placed? if not, I'm all over this when my 06 sport GT is ready next week. :hawt

[htc***]

Hello Everyone,

I'm a virgin to Mazda, been with VW 10 yrs, please forgive my ignorance as I've just join the site.

I've read this thread, but I can't figure out where this spacer goes, does anyone have a pic? or maybe this night shift is messin' with me and I can't think straight. Wiring it up is a cake walk. Are no other mods to the housing required? the cutoffs look hot, but I thought the arc in the HID bulb might put it in a slightly different position than where the halogen filament is placed? if not, I'm all over this when my 06 sport GT is ready next week. :hawt


Take a look at this video then you know where you should put the spacers or you can use the one came with the bulbs.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uK-Ys5D4GHw

[Souls]

LOL well DUH!! of course that's where it goes! <slaps head> That vid explained it perfectly..

Thanks!

[JaYson]

I have a CAP like this one http://www.aurora.com.hk/HID/warning_canceller02.jpg

and how do I hook it up to the relay hardness ?

how much was this capacitor?

[Rob23]

they are like less than $5 for 2 of them,

[htc***]

how much was this capacitor?

I bought it from Ebay for less than ($4.60 + $10 S/H) $15US for 2 capacitors and you can share with your friend because you only need 1 for your car.

link (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2x-HID-Warning-Canceller-Capacitor-Kit-Computer-Error-/320520517209?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4aa082f659)

[JaYson]

I bought it from Ebay for less than ($4.60 + $10 S/H) $15US for 2 capacitors and you can share with your friend because you only need 1 for your car.

link (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2x-HID-Warning-Canceller-Capacitor-Kit-Computer-Error-/320520517209?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4aa082f659)

are basically all the capacitors on ebay the same thing? they all look the same at least, so i should just take the best price?

[stevenma188]

Pretty much, as long as the specs are the same it should be ok.

[htc***]

Pretty much, as long as the specs are the same it should be ok.

+1.



are basically all the capacitors on ebay the same thing? they all look the same at least, so i should just take the best price?

Another for $11 US free S/H

link (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-Car-Bulb-HID-Anti-Flicker-Capacitor-Error-Cancellers-/150436247530?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2306b2f7ea)

[JaYson]

I'm thinking about this one, seems cleaner
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270577123619&_trkparms=tab%3DWatching

[htc***]

I'm thinking about this one, seems cleaner
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270577123619&_trkparms=tab%3DWatching

It cost you $16US.

[JaYson]

It cost you $16US.

its true

[htc***]

Just get the cheap price because they're all the same. BTW it hide under your hood and nobody see it.

[JaYson]

Just get the cheap price because they're all the same. BTW it hide under your hood and nobody see it.

but I"LL SEE IT!
lol but really...you make a valid point...I'll hide it real nice so i don't even have to see it hah

[Rob23]

why don't you just get the indi fog mod then you don't have to worry about the compacitor? just run your fogs during the day.

[gularti]

What does the capacitor do for the HID install?

[htc***]

What does the capacitor do for the HID install?

04-06 Mazda3 use DRL on low beam and need capacitor to ensure HIDs which run voltage correctly and solve the flickering issue. It also help the ballast last longer for 04-06. 07 and later model won't need it because it uses hi-beam for DRL. See another thread

Antiflicker-capacitor thread (http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?41856-where-can-i-buy-a-antiflicker-capacitor)

[JaYson]

i just bought an HID kit, but noticed that are some smuges and Cr*p on the bulb....

should/how should i clean the bulb without making it explode when i install them?

[M3-ZOOM]

hey so im going to install hids in my fogs but i already did the indy fog mod. so will i still need a relay and a capacitor? or would i just need the relay?

[Thrizzl3]

are they not plug and play?

[sp3GT]

why don't you just get the indi fog mod then you don't have to worry about the compacitor? just run your fogs during the day.

I don't think it's a good idea to run fogs all the time because they get really hot and aren't really meant to be ran at full power all the time.


hey so im going to install hids in my fogs but i already did the indy fog mod. so will i still need a relay and a capacitor? or would i just need the relay?

If you HID Fogs, it should be simply plug and play, no Relay needed.

Indy fog mod just gives you full control of your fogs... it doesn't disrupt power.

[M3-ZOOM]

^ no no right now they are halogens, but the indy fog mod is done so i dont know if i need a relay harness and what not. i dont really mess around with electrical lmfao

[blazex2]

does anyone know where to buy these capacitors other than ebay?? i was thinking the source?

[stevenma188]

Any electronics components store will carry them. The Source DOES NOT carry these.

[mcordy]

So, I installed the cap as suggested in this post and it blew within the first day. I used a 25v 47000mf. But strangely it does not flicker with the blown cap installed i guess its not completely blown but is extremely swollen. :( Any ideas as to why this would happen or how I could prevent it?

[aznives3]

hey guys im new here. just installed some 6000K HID's into my gf's 05 mazda 3 Sport GS, and im having a few issues. Firstly, the beam doesn't seem to be projecting far at all. Seems like the projectors are pointed straight at the ground and only go out like 5 or 6 feet. I did cut the rubber shroud to use as a spacer, instead, all i used was the plastic ring that comes in the bulb plastic casing, slip it over the back, and i THOUGHT it was enough to seat the bulb as it seems to be in there pretty sturdy. i'll have to recheck that. if that looks okay, is there anything else you guys can mention to adjust the headlight levels? i looked for that white knob but could not find it for the life of me.

Also, im getting the flickering of course. my bad for not reviewing this more beforehand. For now im just getting her to turn on her headlights right away, but would ultimately like to solve the issue. I see that i can buy PnP capacitor kits for error/flickering, is that my easiest option? if anyone knows where to get capacitors locally in canada, i could try that too, however, i did not install a relay harness. Can the capacitor be done safely without the relay? or is the relay absolutely essential?

thanks!

[Templar Knight]

to my understanding, the relay is to prevent the flickering....and to adjust the angle of the beam, there is a white gear on the back of the headlight with lots of teeth (you'll only be able to see half the gear) the screw you see thats screwed right into the middle is the screw you will need to turn to turn the gear thus adjusting the beam, there is a thread on here i believe that shows you with pics. Use the search feature.

[Templar Knight]

check out this thread, i know its for a 2010, but the gear/screw your looking for is similar

[aznives3]

to my understanding, the relay is to prevent the flickering....and to adjust the angle of the beam, there is a white gear on the back of the headlight with lots of teeth (you'll only be able to see half the gear) the screw you see thats screwed right into the middle is the screw you will need to turn to turn the gear thus adjusting the beam, there is a thread on here i believe that shows you with pics. Use the search feature.

i thought the relay was to draw power directly from the battery, and the capacitor was what curbs the flickering issue with the DRL's. what im wondering is, since i have not installed a relay, just done the regular PnP of the kit, can the capacitor still be installed somewhere in the line safely or do i really need to get a relay. If i have to buy a relay + capacitor, i think i might just go and buy the PnP capacitor kits on fleabay for a few bucks and wait a couple weeks for it to get here to save some effort.

on the other hand, i drove alongside my gf today and the beams literally only look like they fire out as far as fog lights, just going straight down. Again, for the "spacer" i used the white O-ring that comes in the bulb packaging, just flipped over onto the backside of the base. It seems to be locked down nice and tightly in the housing clip, however i'll double check that tonight. Could this be the culprit as to the terrible throw of the lights?

[Templar Knight]

Whoops, i forgot to include the url.... http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?15794-How-To-Aim-Your-Headlights&highlight=beam+adustment.....that should show you the white gear you should be able to adjust beam....i really doubt having the plastic casing clipped in isnt the problem, i'm pretty sure it would be the angle of the beam, i could be wrong, trial and error. Most ppl tho use the rubber. By my understanding, a capacitor could be put in and a relay is essential to prevent flickering, i dont have one either and i will be getting one asap. I'm going through nextmod in our sponsers section to buy a relay. Someone correct me if any of my info is wrong, it was just to the best of my general knowledge. i Hope this helps

[aznives3]

that looks to be for 2010's. i did do the search and found what the adjusting screw looks like on a halogen setup, however, when i took a quick glance at my gf's mazda, i could not find the adjuster for the life of me. i'll have to look again but, the aim of the headlights right now is just appalling. i wonder if maybe i have them clipped in wrong even and the bulb is being tilted forward, however, when i shine them on a wall the cutoff for both lights is even, so it would seem they are put in correctly, perhaps just aimed too low.

as far as the relay & capacitor goes, lets see if someone else can clarify this 100%, do we ABSOLUTELY need the relay to install the capacitor or can the capacitor go in somewhere else without using a relay? What about just buying those premade "HID capacitor" kits, around $20ish for PnP?

In the meantime, is there a way to bypass the parking brake into making the car thinking its always engaged so that the DRL's stay off? doesn't matter to me if the light on the dash is on (as long as it doesn't beep), as a temporary fix for now?

[Templar Knight]

Yes it is for a 2010, but what your looking for is similar, i drive a 2005 and i've had to adjust them too, the part looks similar. Try typing in relay or capacitor into the search feature, thats what i'll be doing now to find out 100%. But i'm like 95% positive a relay will solve the flickering issue as i need one and found a thread telling me that a relay would fix it. Don't know anything bout bypassing, hopefully another member can shed some light on it or try and search, i'm sure its come up before

[aznives3]

Yes it is for a 2010, but what your looking for is similar, i drive a 2005 and i've had to adjust them too, the part looks similar. Try typing in relay or capacitor into the search feature, thats what i'll be doing now to find out 100%. But i'm like 95% positive a relay will solve the flickering issue as i need one and found a thread telling me that a relay would fix it. Don't know anything bout bypassing, hopefully another member can shed some light on it or try and search, i'm sure its come up before

i just decided to do a little more searching (thought i had done it all already), and it seems if i get a relay harness, that i can bypass the DRL's altogether. I think this is what i'll do, and i'll just hold off on doing the capacitor mod to keep the DRL's. I'll probably do the Indy fog mod sometime later in the summer when its warmer to work on the car, but for now i just want to get rid of the flickering in the easiest way possible and this seems to be by just installing a relay! so i guess you were right then, that a relay should stop the flickering.

how i understand it now

Relay only = bypass DRL. No DRL, No flicker
Relay + capacitor = HID DRL, no flicker

[dj_adamix]

i just decided to do a little more searching (thought i had done it all already), and it seems if i get a relay harness, that i can bypass the DRL's altogether. I think this is what i'll do, and i'll just hold off on doing the capacitor mod to keep the DRL's. I'll probably do the Indy fog mod sometime later in the summer when its warmer to work on the car, but for now i just want to get rid of the flickering in the easiest way possible and this seems to be by just installing a relay! so i guess you were right then, that a relay should stop the flickering.

how i understand it now

Relay only = bypass DRL. No DRL, No flicker
Relay + capacitor = HID DRL, no flicker



Hey man,

Relay kit = waste of money
special "pnp" capacitors ( i think youre refering to a PNP transistor, or some special anti flicker capacitor which is nothing else but a regular capacitor lol), = waste of money
lol

All you need is a 4700uF (micro Farads) electrolitic (cylinder like with two pins + and -) capacitor.

Put it plus to plus and - to - to your harness right before the ballast.

That works with 35W setup.
If you have 55W then you need a bigger cap or two of those connected in parallel.

Total cost= 2.50 x2 caps = 5 bucks at any riado shack, or electronic components store. (eg. Sayal).

This eliminates any flickering.

When it comes to your bubs, just try thicker washers so its stuck there for good. it should be alligned like your old bulb. sometimes its hard to get it click in properly in right way.

[dj_adamix]

Just make sure afterwards to tape it with electrical tape or even shrink tube so pins dont cross.
Also dont mix up polarities, it will blow up your cap lol.

[aznives3]

im going to be getting some of those caps later today, found a nice store closeby that sells all sorts of electronic stuff.

anyone know if i have to get a certain Voltage cap? i see their website lists a 40V one, will that work?

Also, as far as wiring it, does it have to go onto the wires of the STOCK harness, or can it go onto the HID harness that leads into the ballast, AFTER it connects to the stock headlight plug with the spades? i would much rather cut into the HID aftermarket harness than into the stock one which is seriously hard to work with lol

[yearoftherat]

im going to be getting some of those caps later today, found a nice store closeby that sells all sorts of electronic stuff.

anyone know if i have to get a certain Voltage cap? i see their website lists a 40V one, will that work?

Also, as far as wiring it, does it have to go onto the wires of the STOCK harness, or can it go onto the HID harness that leads into the ballast, AFTER it connects to the stock headlight plug with the spades? i would much rather cut into the HID aftermarket harness than into the stock one which is seriously hard to work with lol


See my guide here: http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?34422-How-to-keep-your-stock-DRL-s-with-aftermarket-HID-s

[Rob23]

I don't think it's a good idea to run fogs all the time because they get really hot and aren't really meant to be ran at full power all the time.

ive been doing it for over a year with no problems at all, and i have lamin-x on my fogs and ive never had them burn or melt. i run them all the time.

[Default User]

are they not plug and play?

I just got in on the G16 Group Buy for these "Plug-and-Play" (http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?51696-G16-Day-10-HID-KITS!!!) HID Kits

Do I still need a Capacitor or relay to combat the flicker?



I tried reading through the 100 threads regarding the issue - but for some reason, I feel that it's out-dated info seeing as they all go back to 2007

[stevenma188]

Because you have a 2005, you will need a capacitor and relay. 2007 and newer do not need relay and cap.

[Default User]

Thanks stevenma
are all HID relays the same, or are they specific?


http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-auto-parts-tires-other-parts-accessories-HID-Relay-Harness-W0QQAdIdZ268922849
http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-auto-parts-tires-other-parts-accessories-HID-XENON-PLUG-PLAY-RELAY-HARNESS-ELIMINATE-FLICKERING-W0QQAdIdZ266311480

[cwp_sedan]

They are, or at least should" be the same. I have yet to come across one that is different unless it was made for a specific application. They all function the same way by supplying power, ground and "turn-on" signal to the lights, etc.

[Default User]

muchos gracias senors!!!

kinda BS when they sell a kit that's Plug and Play, but yet - you still need to get a harness, etc.

[cwp_sedan]

muchos gracias senors!!!

kinda BS when they sell a kit that's Plug and Play, but yet - you still need to get a harness, etc.

Yep!

[Default User]

Yep!

apparently this kit doesnt need a relay

I dunno - can anyone tell from the pic
http://www.garage16.ca/v/vspfiles/photos/OLLOH1-2.jpg

[ST3ALTH]

I want to get that same kit for my fogs. But im not sure what color temp to grab to match my OEM HID's

[stevenma188]

OEM is 4300K.

[dj_adamix]

you guys should research the difference between cheap dc ballasts and quality ac ballasts. if anyone interested my buddy sells them

[dj_adamix]

not all of em work the same lool, remember u get what u pay for!

[Default User]

If I opted not to use the Capicitor method, what would happen?

what did everyone do for the past 5-6 years

[sp3GT]

^ You have an 05 right? So that means your lowbeams acts as your daytime running lights.

If you don't use a capacitor, you will have to disable your DRL via turn signals method. There's that guide somewhere in the How-To as well. (Capacitor method is easier)

Or alternatively, you can manually turn you switch to Headlight "ON" 24/7 and run them full power at all times.

If you simply just plug and play, your headlights will flicker and die pre-maturely.

[ParsM3GT]

Has anyone tried these capacitors?

http://cgi.ebay.ca/HID-KIT-UNIVERSAL-COMPATIBLE-ERROR-CANCELLER-CAPACITOR-/330549964597?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cf6502f35

[rzapata]

^ You have an 05 right? So that means your lowbeams acts as your daytime running lights.

If you don't use a capacitor, you will have to disable your DRL via turn signals method. There's that guide somewhere in the How-To as well. (Capacitor method is easier)

Or alternatively, you can manually turn you switch to Headlight "ON" 24/7 and run them full power at all times.

If you simply just plug and play, your headlights will flicker and die pre-maturely.

I second that...

I did the install on my HIDs myself and had that flicker problem before I installed a relay + capacitor.. You'll just have to install the capacitor on the wire directly (wire that will be connected to the OEM wire harness).. I did not open the wires on the relay, just attached the capacitor into the wire tip that goes in to the OEM wire harness...

Very simple stuff, anybody can do it.. Also, electrical tape might be handy in my opinion, just to protect the wiring and to clean it up just a little bit.

If anyone needs help, let me know, I'd be happy to provide my input and possibly some pictures as well..

[ParsM3GT]

I second that...

I did the install on my HIDs myself and had that flicker problem before I installed a relay + capacitor.. You'll just have to install the capacitor on the wire directly (wire that will be connected to the OEM wire harness).. I did not open the wires on the relay, just attached the capacitor into the wire tip that goes in to the OEM wire harness...

Very simple stuff, anybody can do it.. Also, electrical tape might be handy in my opinion, just to protect the wiring and to clean it up just a little bit.

If anyone needs help, let me know, I'd be happy to provide my input and possibly some pictures as well..

Where did you get your capacitor?

[sp3GT]

^ The caps are available at The Source (Radio Shack)

[rzapata]

Where did you get your capacitor?

I got it here.. http://www.sayal.com/ or
http://www.a1parts.com/

Check out their contact information, there might be a store close to you..

Capacitor's should not be expensive, probably about $3 or just a little bit less or more.. Forgot sorry..

There's different kinds so it might a little confusing which one to take.. For myself, I took a typical electrolytic RADIAL capacitor 4700uF, 25V... It's just like a simple small canister like capacitor, about 2 inches long with a diameter of a little less than an inch, with the wires coming out on the same end (hence the radial - check this out http://www.sayal.com/ActionIndexP.asp?ID=204321).. I think the 25V is just the capacity; like how what the maximum voltage it can handle (not sure about this so if anyone knows, feel free to join in).. I chose radial because it's easier to work with, depending on what the relay wiring is... There's also an AXIAL capacitor where the wires come out on both ends of the capacitor (check this out http://www.sayal.com/ActionIndexP.asp?ID=171524).

Hope these help.. :)

[rzapata]

^ The caps are available at The Source (Radio Shack)

Hmmm, I hope The Source has it... That was the first place I went to to buy them but did not have any luck. I even checked out different locations... I'm not sure, maybe the guys I talked to did not know what I was talking about or they were just out of stock at that time.. Sayal and A1 Parts are safer in my opinion.. :)

[ParsM3GT]

I tried The Source and they had capacitors but not the right voltage, but I think they had a 25v capacitor. I didn`t think it would work.

Thanks for the help. I`ll take a look at the links you provided.

[rzapata]

I tried The Source and they had capacitors but not the right voltage, but I think they had a 25v capacitor. I didn`t think it would work.

Thanks for the help. I`ll take a look at the links you provided.

No problem!! Glad to help out. :)

[ParsM3GT]

Could you link me to the actual capacitor that you bought?

[rzapata]

Could you link me to the actual capacitor that you bought?

http://www.sayal.com/ActionIndexP.asp?ID=204321

CER-346-1
CEAFM1A472M

I think that's the one.. The specs are the same but mine looks a little different (colour wise).. I'll take a picture of mine and send it to you when I get home, later in the afternoon.. I hope that's ok..

[ParsM3GT]

Thanks again for your help.

[rzapata]

Ok, I have the pictures but I'm not sure how to post it here without going to a photo hosting website...

[ParsM3GT]

Here`s a picture of the capacitor I purchased today.

Thanks to rzapata for showing me where he bought his capacitor. This is a big store. I think they have anything you need in electronics. Also this place is almost next door to Tires23.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b42/wolverine29/Mazda%203%20parts/DSC00098.jpg

[rzapata]

Glad I could help.. :thumbsup

[6strings]

This seems too complicated :(

[cwp_sedan]

This seems too complicated :(

It's quite easy but if you find it difficult you might be smarter to have a professional do the install for you.

[6strings]

yep, with my luck. i will find a way to screw it up.
gonna seek help with it so its a successful mod.

[Default User]

One of the problems is that there are sooo many threads on this, that ppl are using different things, for different cars (04 to 06 vs 07+)

Honestly, the hardest thing is where to mount the ballast and hiding the wires
the trick is to lay everything out and label what goes where.

Steven's write up is great - just wish there were more pics.
I might attempt to take step-by-step pics this weekend.

[rzapata]

yep, with my luck. i will find a way to screw it up.
gonna seek help with it so its a successful mod.

Trust me, anyone can do this. :) I have no real professional mechanical or electrical training whatsoever (plus I really hate electrical, even in school), I've just read a lot of stuff that people do and incorporate those ideas into my process... The main thing you should be worried about when doing this is your own safety, and carefully manipulating the car's electrical wiring and stuff. :) Other than that, very simple and easy mod. :):)

[6strings]

i'll give it a shot. or just ask one of the members on here to assist me.

[ismail_alikhan]

This thread I actually found really helpful as far as the capacitor goes...this wasn't something that was widely known when I tried to do my own install about a year and half ago.

Also if your doing this the first time, it might be helpful to have someone there who has done it before, because they can tell u what not to do.

What I also found when doing the install was the hardest thing was mounting the wires properly so they dont move around, because bouncing connections will cause a short and your lights to go on and off.

Also hiding the wires is fairly difficult, labelling and laying it out is probably your best bet.

The biggest thing that I found to be the most difficult was that the relay I got with my Kit was too short.....

[ParsM3GT]

^If you don't use a capacitor, you will have to disable your DRL via turn signals method. There's that guide somewhere in the How-To as well. (Capacitor method is easier)

I did this a few years ago with my first set of HID`s. Even though this method will stop the flickering your relay harness will have a loud buzzing sound. So loud you can hear it over the engine running. At least this is what happened to me.

With my new HID`s that were installed this week, I ran into the same problem even with the new relay harness. And the lights flickered cause I didn`t disable the DRL`s. A 25 volt capacitor solved both of these problems.

[klym]

I did this a few years ago with my first set of HID`s. Even though this method will stop the flickering your relay harness will have a loud buzzing sound. So loud you can hear it over the engine running. At least this is what happened to me.

With my new HID`s that were installed this week, I ran into the same problem even with the new relay harness. And the lights flickered cause I didn`t disable the DRL`s. A 25 volt capacitor solved both of these problems.

I never had an issue with the relay buzzing at all, and I have done the install on two different mazda 3's...


Either way definitely a very easy install.

[ismail_alikhan]

I want to re-install mine as well.....I have the kit sitting at home right now...If anyone wants to help we can do like a group install if 6strings would like....

[stevenma188]

Where are you guys located?

[ismail_alikhan]

I'm in richmond hill...think hes in Sauga....

[ismail_alikhan]

Would anyone be able to help some newbs do an HID install?

[stevenma188]

I would but I'm a bit far from the GTA. I might be coming to the GTA in the near future and would be happy to help you if you still haven't found someone by then.

[6strings]

i dont mind the drive.
I'll meet up wherever for some help on this.

[stevenma188]

London?

[ismail_alikhan]

Yeah i'm down too..although London is like 2 hours from Richmond hill....I dont mind somewhere in between though like cambridge or Milton if u guys are up for it?

[stevenma188]

Depending on how things go, I might be able to do Guelph some time over Easter weekend.

[ismail_alikhan]

Thanks man that would be amazing..just gotta wait for strings to get his parts...is he gets them maybe we can set something up...

Depending on how things go, I might be able to do Guelph some time over Easter weekend.

[Default User]

Willing to help TM3ers in the Scarborough/Pickering area also

Just make sure you have a relay kit and a capacitor

[ismail_alikhan]

Thanks man....Quick question...where did you pick up your capacitor from?



Willing to help TM3ers in the Scarborough/Pickering area also

Just make sure you have a relay kit and a capacitor

[Default User]

Thanks man....Quick question...where did you pick up your capacitor from?

VP and Gordon Baker.
Active Electronics
http://www.yelp.ca/biz/active-electronics-toronto-north-york

I grabbed a 35V 4700uF for about $5

[Strongjag]

Okay, Im not 100% sure where the Capacitor is supposed to go... you wrap the prongs around the terminals coming from the headlight harness?

[rzapata]

Okay, Im not 100% sure where the Capacitor is supposed to go... you wrap the prongs around the terminals coming from the headlight harness?

Check this diagram out.. I made it for another member here.. :) It should show you where to place the capacitor...

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4682&d=1302564822

By the way, this is assuming you have a relay already right?? I tried to wrap it around the relay as I did not want to cut through the OEM harness...

[JaYson]

have a look at page 5 of this thread.

I assume that you just got a "capacitor" literally the capacitor alone. not one of those capacitors with the built in plugs? like this:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/2-HID-Xenon-Error-Code-Canceller-Capacitor-Anti-Flicker-/110654624713?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c38793c9

If you only have the capacitor alone. basically what you want to do is have it installed anywhere between the stock plug and your relay harness (if you're using one)

what i assume you've done is used one of the "extra spade wires" from your HID bulbs and jammed it into the stock plug, then plugged the other end into the "signal source" on the relay harness.

in any case you can see from the below that you can even have it wired in in front of the stock plug, but basically you just want to have it installed before the ballasts and the relay.

what the capacitor does is acts like a battery and stores up power, so that in the event that there's a shortage (which is what causes the "flicker") the reserve that's been stored in the capacitor will fill in the missing power, thus preventing a flicker.

hope that helps.


http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=120616.0

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/StevenMa188/TM3/IMG_0772.jpg

[Default User]

Okay, Im not 100% sure where the Capacitor is supposed to go... you wrap the prongs around the terminals coming from the headlight harness?

What type of capacitor dis you get?
There are 2 styles - does it have 2 or 4 prongs?

If you got two - just match up which is the negative terminal and wrap it or tap into, the appropriate terminal going into the OEM headlight plug harness

[JaYson]

i got the ebay ones i linked below...you only need one if you're using a relay harness. so i split the cost with a friend and we got 1 each. makes life easier b/c the plugs are wired in and everything, and you dont have to fiddle with too much in terms of finding where to put it and how to protect it etc.

makes for a cleaner look at the very least.

but it does cost a few bucks more than a single capacitor, and you have to wait for shipping.

[rzapata]

Also, you might want to make sure you match up the negative and positive terminals.. Don't know for sure if this matters but that's what I did anyway... Positive is the longer wire and negative is the shorter wire on the capacitor..

[Strongjag]

Okay thanks, this does help :)

Yeah, I went to an electronic supply store and picked up two small 4700microfarad caps. I think I get the install portion now that I just need to have the cap in line before the ballast and relay. Just have to make sure its all secure and wrapped up well. It was just hard to tell from the pictures what was where.

[sp3GT]

i got the ebay ones i linked below...you only need one if you're using a relay harness. so i split the cost with a friend and we got 1 each. makes life easier b/c the plugs are wired in and everything, and you dont have to fiddle with too much in terms of finding where to put it and how to protect it etc.

makes for a cleaner look at the very least.

but it does cost a few bucks more than a single capacitor, and you have to wait for shipping.

We have some of those stocked too now but I didn't want to send StrongJag a product I've never seen work in person.

Damn, Sorry Strongjay would have made your life a lot easier.

[Strongjag]

Heh, no worries Kelvin. I appreciate the concern and understand you not wanting to send a product you arent familiar with. I'll figure it out anyways, its good to learn.

Jason

[Delete]

are you guys using HIDs as your DRLs? My mechanic told me its a bad idea as itll burn out so I was hesitant to do it.. How is the life span, could you guys share how long youve had your HIDs as your DRLs?

[rzapata]

are you guys using HIDs as your DRLs? My mechanic told me its a bad idea as itll burn out so I was hesitant to do it.. How is the life span, could you guys share how long youve had your HIDs as your DRLs?

I'm running my HIDs on DRL.. I've had it since October of last year I believe and the bulbs hadn't burnt out.. The only problem that I had was a faulty ballast which was replaced under warranty.. The only way I think it could be a problem is when you do not have a relay harness and a capacitor along with it because lights will keep flickering on DRL.... And that cannot be good for the bulbs... :)

[Default User]

are you guys using HIDs as your DRLs? My mechanic told me its a bad idea as itll burn out so I was hesitant to do it.. How is the life span, could you guys share how long youve had your HIDs as your DRLs?

Got my HIDs at Garage16 which came with a 18 month warranty. Runnin them to my DRL's also.
The only problem I can see is the bulb burning out faster as it basically keeps them ON at all times. But then again, what bulb wont burn out?

IMHO, i don't really care considering the cost of a set of replacement bulbs vs the effectiveness and benefits of HID's.

[Delete]

okay, so what relay harness should i get. Do they all function the same?

[Strongjag]

Most kits come with one

[rzapata]

Most kits come with one

Hmmm, not sure if they come with one... I had to buy the relay and the capacitor separately... usually it's just the bulbs, ballasts and wiring....

[sp3GT]

^ Ya it's kind of a optional item now since most new cars no longer require them and people generally are too lazy to install them.

[Default User]

^ Ya it's kind of a optional item now since most new cars no longer require them and people generally are too lazy to install them.

+1
I have to admit - I didnt get one right away just out of pure laziness.
But at the end of the day - I grabbed one from a local shop for $20 and glad I did

[sp3GT]

^ HID relay harness for $20?

[Default User]

^ HID relay harness for $20?

http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-auto-parts-tires-other-parts-accessories-Wire-Relay-Harness-All-Type-HID-Kits-LED-Bulbs-Strip-Light-W0QQAdIdZ287202555

[JaYson]

Does anyone have any solutions/ insight into my (new) issue -->

new issue: the passenger HID seems to be flickering, not fully on and off, but it is flickering


background: I bought my HIDs about a year ago, from SP3GT everything has been great until about a month or 2 ago when my Passenger side HID would sometimes not turn on when i turned my car on. If it didnt turn on, i'd have to shut the lights off (by either turning off engine, or pulling up hand break while in day mode) then turn them back on again, then they'd usually fire up and stay on. the lights dont have an issue with turning off while driving, once they turn on they stay on until i turn off the engine.

I installed the HIDs with a Relay Harness and a Capacitor

After trying different grounding points, the problem kept coming back every now and then. So at this point SP3GT replaced the "faulty ballast" under warranty.



which leads us to the new problem: its been a few months now and i noticed today that my passenger side HID (same as replaced) his now flickering, i checked the bulb + mount and everything's locked in and solid.

I've been instructed to try another Grounding point.




anyone else have any ideas what the problem might be, or what a solution might be? thanks in advance

[yearoftherat]

Well since the ballast was replaced under warranty, I would check the bulb. Swap it with the driver side to see if it still happens.

[JaYson]

Good thinking, will do.


Well since the ballast was replaced under warranty, I would check the bulb. Swap it with the driver side to see if it still happens.



anyone else got some more insight? or anyone experience a similar issue?

[Default User]

Try swapping ballasts.

Could also be an arched wire in the relay harness. Possibly rubbing or burning on the rad hose, fan, etc. Check the loom and see if there are any rub or burn marks.

[sp3GT]

^I think this just might be it, because the ballast we thought was bad ended up being good through further testing.

Jay, keep me posted.

[JaYson]

Yeah this is a very very odd and unfortunate situation.

well changing the ballast did fix the initial problem i was having, I haven't experienced the light not turning on since we swapped it out.


I'll have a through look at the wiring when i get a chance, I have everything snugged down (not too tight) i zip tied the shit outta everything to keep it all tucked away, but we'll see what i can find......

[Darkice]

Does anyone have any solutions/ insight into my (new) issue -->

new issue: the passenger HID seems to be flickering, not fully on and off, but it is flickering


background: I bought my HIDs about a year ago, from SP3GT everything has been great until about a month or 2 ago when my Passenger side HID would sometimes not turn on when i turned my car on. If it didnt turn on, i'd have to shut the lights off (by either turning off engine, or pulling up hand break while in day mode) then turn them back on again, then they'd usually fire up and stay on. the lights dont have an issue with turning off while driving, once they turn on they stay on until i turn off the engine.

I installed the HIDs with a Relay Harness and a Capacitor

After trying different grounding points, the problem kept coming back every now and then. So at this point SP3GT replaced the "faulty ballast" under warranty.



which leads us to the new problem: its been a few months now and i noticed today that my passenger side HID (same as replaced) his now flickering, i checked the bulb + mount and everything's locked in and solid.

I've been instructed to try another Grounding point.




anyone else have any ideas what the problem might be, or what a solution might be? thanks in advance

check ur relay and capacitor , cause when u dont have that it flickers

[JaYson]

OKAY ALL! I NEED YOUR BRAINS! (again)

Old Problem:

Passenger side light sometimes would not come on, I would start my car and the Driver side would always fire up but the passenger side would sometimes not turn on. When I manually turned the lights off either by turning the car off, or by raising the hand break then lowering it, the light would usually then fire up and turn on.

Kelvin from ImportTuning replaced the passenger side ballast and the problem was solved, the passenger side always fires now and the problem was fixed. this was the case for a few weeks/ a month


New Problem:

Now the same problem has started up again but with the DRIVER SIDE, instead of the passenger side. The same problem is happening, I turn on the car and the passenger side will turn on but the driver side will not turn on, however if i lift the ebrake then lower again it will turn on (usually).

the only new issues are as follows:

1) its happening with much more frequency than when it was the passenger side, now the driver side only turns on properly maybe 50% of the time

2) when the light DOES fire up (either on its own or when i make it) it takes more than twice as long to fire up almost 6-7 seconds to come to full power, as opposed to make 2-3 seconds with the passenger side (which is the working side now)



What I have done to try to fix this:

1) I have already tried 2 Grounding points, as I had moved it trying to fix the problem the first time

2) I disconnected my Capacitor and wired the source straight into the Relay Harness

3) I've tried switching the bulbs from one side to the other


Notes:
my setup is with:
1) relay harness
2) Capacitor



any help would be great, thanks in advance.

[Donshaw]

Hey man this happens to me all the time... all I need to do is engage my parking brake and then dis engage is and my second light (which ever one decided not to go on this time) will then turn on .. happens to me probally 50% of the time ... just learnt to check every time now...


OKAY ALL! I NEED YOUR BRAINS! (again)

Old Problem:

Passenger side light sometimes would not come on, I would start my car and the Driver side would always fire up but the passenger side would sometimes not turn on. When I manually turned the lights off either by turning the car off, or by raising the hand break then lowering it, the light would usually then fire up and turn on.

Kelvin from ImportTuning replaced the passenger side ballast and the problem was solved, the passenger side always fires now and the problem was fixed. this was the case for a few weeks/ a month


New Problem:

Now the same problem has started up again but with the DRIVER SIDE, instead of the passenger side. The same problem is happening, I turn on the car and the passenger side will turn on but the driver side will not turn on, however if i lift the ebrake then lower again it will turn on (usually).

the only new issues are as follows:

1) its happening with much more frequency than when it was the passenger side, now the driver side only turns on properly maybe 50% of the time

2) when the light DOES fire up (either on its own or when i make it) it takes more than twice as long to fire up almost 6-7 seconds to come to full power, as opposed to make 2-3 seconds with the passenger side (which is the working side now)



What I have done to try to fix this:

1) I have already tried 2 Grounding points, as I had moved it trying to fix the problem the first time

2) I disconnected my Capacitor and wired the source straight into the Relay Harness

3) I've tried switching the bulbs from one side to the other


Notes:
my setup is with:
1) relay harness
2) Capacitor



any help would be great, thanks in advance.

[JaYson]

jeeze...that's not comforting... :bang


Hey man this happens to me all the time... all I need to do is engage my parking brake and then dis engage is and my second light (which ever one decided not to go on this time) will then turn on .. happens to me probally 50% of the time ... just learnt to check every time now...

[yearoftherat]

Must be frustrating to say the least but have u tried replacing the ballast on the driver side?

[JaYson]

Must be frustrating to say the least but have u tried replacing the ballast on the driver side?

Well that fixed the problem last time. but ImportsTuning doesn't really want to give me another ballast apparently.
They replaced the passenger side when I had the same problem on the passenger side, but they don't think its the solution for the driver side...

I've been talking to SP3GT a lot trying to figure out what the problem is, he thinks its likely a grounding issue, but i've tried 3 grounding spots now (2 of which were stock mazda points), and ontop of it one of my bulbs are going from 6000K to closer to 3000K....

and this morning, the driver side wouldn't stay on at all, even when I pull the e-brake to turn off the lights then drop to turn them on again, the driver side would fire up for a min (at most) then it would flicker and turn off.... (lol the car in front of me probably thought i was tail gating, the whole time i was trying to watch my lights in the reflection of their trunk)



so yeah...its frustrating to say the least....

[sp3GT]

^I don't mind meeting up with you to test ballast if you really think it's a ballast issue. We have to meet up for new bulbs anyways.

Just PM me!

[JaYson]

^I don't mind meeting up with you to test ballast if you really think it's a ballast issue. We have to meet up for new bulbs anyways.

Just PM me!

that would be great

[Kris"Speed3"CWP]

go to www.xenondepot.com buy your kits here you will have no problems, been dealing with them for 8yrs! plus you can buy replacement bulbs in the pair for $25-30 in their clearance section. Bought complete 3,000k kit for my fogs and bought 6,000k clearance bulbs $25 pair with 6000k ultinon bulbs for my bi-xenon!!

Had driver side hid bulb cut out issues issue on my VW which would require re lighting it and it was bad bulb after 1,5yr, replaced in pair keep the good bulb as back up throw out bad one, 5.5yrs later passenger bulb went out put in spare in Dec 2010 had kit on VW 8yrs! Still have to put in the new pair I bought for $25 and fix my Fk angel eyes when I remove front bumper.

www.xenondepot.com kits are pretty low maintenance!

[Kris"Speed3"CWP]

I think your #1 problem is that your DRL's are not disconnected. the Ballast is not seeing constant 12v so it's trying to keep re-igniting and your burning out your ballast and screwing your bulbs. xenon depot will tell you right off the bat you cannot use H.I.D's in a DRL spot as the voltage is not a constant 12v they will tell you how to disconnect on your MAZDA3 which uses the low beam projector for DRL instead of the separate high beam?? If you must have DRL's switch the wiring to the high beam bulb and have your low beam strictly H.I.D.

P.S check you voltage with your headlight switch in off position and e-brake down see what you get? Then test again when you have your headlight on, from the actual headlight harness from the car you will see voltage differences 100% guaranteed!!

[JaYson]

I think your #1 problem is that your DRL's are not disconnected. the Ballast is not seeing constant 12v so it's trying to keep re-igniting and your burning out your ballast and screwing your bulbs. xenon depot will tell you right off the bat you cannot use H.I.D's in a DRL spot as the voltage is not a constant 12v they will tell you how to disconnect on your MAZDA3 which uses the low beam projector for DRL instead of the separate high beam?? If you must have DRL's switch the wiring to the high beam bulb and have your low beam strictly H.I.D.

P.S check you voltage with your headlight switch in off position and e-brake down see what you get? Then test again when you have your headlight on, from the actual headlight harness from the car you will see voltage differences 100% guaranteed!!


YOu're probably right. but as it stands, the lights are turning off even when I leave the light selector in Night driving Mode, where it should be 12v

The only other thing is that i dont want to go splicing the stock wiring and messing with the existing setup, in case I end up selling the car in the future.

but thanks, I'll def. take it into consideration.

[JaYson]

go to www.xenondepot.com buy your kits here you will have no problems, been dealing with them for 8yrs! plus you can buy replacement bulbs in the pair for $25-30 in their clearance section. Bought complete 3,000k kit for my fogs and bought 6,000k clearance bulbs $25 pair with 6000k ultinon bulbs for my bi-xenon!!

Had driver side hid bulb cut out issues issue on my VW which would require re lighting it and it was bad bulb after 1,5yr, replaced in pair keep the good bulb as back up throw out bad one, 5.5yrs later passenger bulb went out put in spare in Dec 2010 had kit on VW 8yrs! Still have to put in the new pair I bought for $25 and fix my Fk angel eyes when I remove front bumper.

www.xenondepot.com kits are pretty low maintenance!


thanks, I'll have to look into their products for nextime.

[Kris"Speed3"CWP]

really never looked into it for the Mazda3 DRL set up but if anyone knows how to disconnect them please post the how to info on here. I think I remember the guy from xenon depot telling me that the trigger wire for the wiring harness must come from the park lights to power up the xenon bulbs this way you can get around the DRL from trying to power the ballast. As with the harness you are using the the constant 12v from the battery not the factory headlight plug, so what you would have to do to keep the factory loom stock is pull out the power wire the low beam bulb would plug into when connecting to the new harness,(this is only to trigger relay to pull power from battery) and then put a jumper wire to the + side of you park light bulb to trigger your xenon bulb!! This will leave your factory harness intact and use a proper 12v source for your trigger just put your car stalk switch to auto or park or full and your xenons will work the way it was meant too! Just remember do it to both sides as you should have 2 sets of harnesses for your kit and both sides should hook up to the car battery and just hook the ground leads to the battery I have used the battery negative as it is more consistent and less prone to weathering and had no problems!

P.S your ballast is probably fried from trying to re-ignite constantly as you probably did not turn headlight on full every time your in the car! order new kit from Xenon depot talk to Steve just tell him I sent u guy with 2010 speed 3 who bought 3,000k kit and 6,000k Philips ultinon bulbs!

[JaYson]

I was thinking. correct me if im wrong. BUT!;

Because I'm using a relay harness + Capacitor; doesn't the relay harness draw power directly from the batter and a ground, thus the power source should be a good 12v source. The stock headlight harness/plug is only used to control the relay harness switch to complete the circuit to power the Ballasts.

Also, because I'm using a capacitor the capacitor should regulate the power to the relay.


does that make sense?

[sp3GT]

^Jay, your ballast are getting a constant 12V all the time because you're using the capacitors. That's what the capacitors do.

So you're correct!

[Kris"Speed3"CWP]

Never heard of a capacitor being used on an H.I.D setup as this would be for high powered hard bass hitting stereo's to prevent voltage drop.

The total H.I.D kit should have 2 complete harnesses one for each headlight. Therefore 2 positive terminal connection and two negative terminal connections along with 2 relays, plus each harness is made for the for the type of bulb for your Xenon kit ex. H7 you would have H7 trigger points for the relays to get the signal to open up the side of the relay that is connected to your battery hence no factory wires have high current draw to melt them.

Problem here is your relay is only getting a partial signal to draw from your battery when your DRL are active which could be effecting everything up stream from the relay-to-battery- to ballast-to igniter to bulb.

You would need to test the power on the relay going to the ballast to see if it was 12v as the DRLs might not be giving the relay enough juice to properly function and let it draw correctly from battery. Hence your Relay might be screwed? try taking the relay from the good side and see if it works if so replace the relay and use trigger from park light which should be constant 12v.

[Kris"Speed3"CWP]

so are your capacitors connect to your headlight trigger point before the relay?? As this would be only point that would need to ensure the 12v due to the DRL's.

Hell just get a proper kit from http://www.kbcarstuff.com/HID-Kits-s/216.htm , disconnect your DRLs as they are not even required for a safety certificate and hook up your grounds to your battery case closed problem solved!

[JaYson]

The Capacitor is connected before everything:

Stock Plug (aka.signal source) --> Capacitor --> Relay Harness --> Ballast 1&2 --> HID Bulb 1&2


this is a setup that's been used by many people, I didnt come up with it myself, its been noted many times on this forum.


also again i dont think its a signal issue, I know what you're saying about the lack of 12v signal, but thats not the case with regards to my setup due to the capacitor. also if i did not have a capacitor at all, while in DRL the lights would not turn on and/or would flicker constantly on and off (which is what you're talking about with the lack of full 12v signal source)


the setup you're talking about is for a differnt type of kit and a differnt setup than what i have. but thanks anyways

[JaYson]

Long Story short. Kelvin (Sp3GT) and the people at Importstuning, took care of me and got me the replacement ballast (again) and replaced the defective bulbs.

So far all is well and everything is working normally (knock on wood), it was a long and bumpy road but all in all kelvins a great guy to do business with and the people at ImportsTuning stand by their product/warranty

sooo...im pretty sure it was a series of bad luck with the ballasts

[Default User]

glad to hear it worked out.
Super-happy that the sponsors stepped up for you!

[speedvision3]

he did..and steven has that mod too..

I have a 2005 Mazda 3 and am about to install hidH i got a capacitor/anti flicker device off ebay does it plug into the factory harness then into the relay? like where do the red and black wires from the bulbs go if anti flicker is plugged into factory light harness? and on a mazda 3 will i still have my daytime running lights ?


Thanks

[rzapata]

I have a 2005 Mazda 3 and am about to install hidH i got a capacitor/anti flicker device off ebay does it plug into the factory harness then into the relay? like where do the red and black wires from the bulbs go if anti flicker is plugged into factory light harness? and on a mazda 3 will i still have my daytime running lights ?


Thanks

You connect each end of the capacitor to the relay harness. There's only one way it's going to work.. Sorry, I can't remember exactly how it was but I think the longer wire of the capacitor is the connects to the red, and so on. Then the red will go to the wire with the white line on it, the black goes to the black wire..

For the 05, the DRL is set to the low beams, which I assume is where your HIDs will be.. As long as you have a capacitor and relay harness, it should not flicker.

[speedvision3]

would it hook up the same as this let me know http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=g_4RlVXy99Q

[speedvision3]

so the capacitor does not plug into the factory harness ? then accessory wire from the relay ?

[yearoftherat]

so the capacitor does not plug into the factory harness ? then accessory wire from the relay ?

It does not plug into the factory harness.

[rzapata]

so the capacitor does not plug into the factory harness ? then accessory wire from the relay ?

As YOTR said, the capacitor does not have to be attached to the factory harness. Check post #2 picture 2 on this thread....

LINK (http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?40599-How-to-install-HIDs-on-04-06-Mazda-3&p=551755&viewfull=1#post551755)

That clearly shows how the capacitor should sit..

[edwinau]

sorry i am total newb! do i need a relay? or can i just stick the cap before it enters the stock source to prevent flickering?

[jabh123]

planning on installing my HID kits sometime this month, but was hoping that someone could help me out with the install, i can meet pretty much anywhere in the GTA if anyone is free/willing to help


cheers

[gq_movement]

Question guys,

so my driver side lowbeam is out. When i turn the car on and turn f the heater/music you can here this odd humming, not sure if it's from the HID balast or a connection for that.

Since the bulb doesnt show, would it be best to just swap the bulb, or check all my connections?
last few days it's been flickering, but once i start driving, the low beams would be on. now the driver is out, and the odd time passenger flickers.

[yearoftherat]

I would swap bulbs first. If the issue still persists, check your connections. I would also check the fuse in the relay. I had to replace my relay harness b/c moisture got into the connection where the fuse is. If all looks ok, sounds like the ballasts may be the problem.

[gq_movement]

I would swap bulbs first. If the issue still persists, check your connections. I would also check the fuse in the relay. I had to replace my relay harness b/c moisture got into the connection where the fuse is. If all looks ok, sounds like the ballasts may be the problem.

word will give it try. i think it might be the harness as well now, cause yesterday both my lights were out. but then late last night about 11ish, i turn on the car and my passenger side turned on with no issue. but again, i somewhat jiggled the harness as well.