Replacing Ignition Wires

[mido]

Im having a problem of rpm's dropping and im loosing some power. I was told by a mechanic that i should maybe look into replacing ignition wires as he had someone in for it last week with the same problem and it was his ignition wires. Is this an easy thing to do? Is there a tutorial i can find online somwhere with some pictures? Or is this a idiot proof fix?

[W_L89]

it's pretty easy to do, just take ur time and dont mix up any wires and you should be fine.

not sure if there is a how to posted on the board but search always helps

[Default User]

the mechanic could've done a quick check right then and there, to see if it was the problem before you go and buy the parts

[mido]

My car isnt with me at the moment, but i happen to notice from somethings ive been reading online, is it true that the mazda 3 doesnt have ignition wires? Only the 2.3's do?

[Cosmo77]

Well actually none of the Mazda3's have ignition wires. Only the 2004-2005 Mazda6 2.3L motors and some Tribute motors had ignition wires.

Cosmo

[TheMAN]

looks like he needs another mechanic if the dude didn't even know it doesn't have plug wires

I'd replace the spark plugs first and if it still has the same issue, then you'll have to replace whichever faulty coil there is... there is one coil PER cylinder/spark plug, that's why there's no wires

if everything is good afterwards and there's a stalling issue, look into a dirty throttle body, bad ECU programming (just a simple flash update from the dealer will fix that), or sticky evap purge solenoid

[Default User]

Check for vaccuum leaks.

Let the car idle...and start pushing and tugging on all the vaccuum lines (GENTLY!!!)
listen for changes in RPM, hissing, hesitation, etc.

I would check by the TB.

[mido]

On monday its going into the dealer for chaning of the belts, along with update for ECU. Hopefully this update will do the trick. If not, then they are gonna have to look into the rest. The cars under warranty, so i assume plugs throttle body etc are all covered am i wrong?

[mido]

When tugging and pushing on vac lines, if i hear a change in RPM's , this means i gotta leak ?

[Default User]

Most likely yes

a vaccuum leak will cause RPM dips/jumps and power loss
just make sure that the hoses are connected securely where they are supposed to

if it's not a leak - it could def be ignition - bad coil, faulty plugs, etc.

[mido]

ill definetly check the hoses tomorrow although i have no clue where they are located in the engine bay. Would you have a picture or routing diagram jsut so u can point me int he right direction? Im guessing is just a thin rubber/silicone tubeing?

[mido]

Now that i think about it, would i be throwing a check engine light if it was sucking in air from somewhere? Even the smallest nick in the hose would throw a light..

[TheMAN]

since your car is under warranty, LEAVE IT ALONE
let the pros handle it and you don't have to worry about it.... the last thing you want to do is goof around under the hood and accidentally break something which will cost you money when your car could've been all taken cared of free to begin with! :)

[slam525i]

That's funny. Reminds me of the time I had to bring in my old 1992 Bimmer for Drive Clean. The grease monkey couldn't find any ignition wires, so he concluded it was a diesel, but couldn't find a diesel 5-series in his database. I face-palmed. I tried to explain the idea of coil-on-plug to him but I don't think he understood.

[mido]

LOL, the problem is, the dealer near me is a bunch of jokes, seems as if i have to find the source of the problem, report to them and they fix it because otherwiese "WE CANNOT REPLICATE THE PROBLEM" whcih is a bunch or horse**** as it happens everytime, all the time, when driving the car. The dealer closest after them is pretty far away and they dont have a shuttle to bring back since i dont live in that area. (so im stuck with these clowns)

[TheMAN]

That's funny. Reminds me of the time I had to bring in my old 1992 Bimmer for Drive Clean. The grease monkey couldn't find any ignition wires, so he concluded it was a diesel, but couldn't find a diesel 5-series in his database. I face-palmed. I tried to explain the idea of coil-on-plug to him but I don't think he understood.
funny he couldn't find a diesel 5 series in the computer because they exist..... in europe :chuckle

[TheMAN]

LOL, the problem is, the dealer near me is a bunch of jokes, seems as if i have to find the source of the problem, report to them and they fix it because otherwiese "WE CANNOT REPLICATE THE PROBLEM" whcih is a bunch or horse**** as it happens everytime, all the time, when driving the car. The dealer closest after them is pretty far away and they dont have a shuttle to bring back since i dont live in that area. (so im stuck with these clowns)
well if you really want anything done and done right so you won't have to keep going back (which wastes your time), you really should go to any of the good dealers that people talk about here

[mido]

Today i had my belts changed out along with the ecu updated and re flashed. Now i noticed that when coming to stop, rpm's fluctuate, and the car is almost about to die, then goes back up, and so forth until it settles. So this for sure is vaccuum leak? Where are the vac hoses? I found some hoses near the back but im not sure if this is it or not.
Thanks For the Help Everyone

[Donutz]

It's normal. You will find loads of info on this topic if you search for 'reset ECU'. Your ECU is still learning; the fluctuations will stop in a day to a couple of days, depending on how you drive, and how often or long. Don't pull on those hoses. If you are not comfortable with how low your revs drop just step on the clutch and gently rev it. I reset mine on Saturday and in 20 minutes the revs stopped dipping low, and after another drive they stopped fluctuating completely.

[mido]

Thing is, even before the reflash, it was getting this the odd time i look at the meter. I notice it happens when i bring it up to 2000 it will go down to 1500 then back up to 2000 then go back again. Its weird, and then again, at high speeds it will drop to around 1500-1900. And when i start to accelerate, the rpm's dont move from there, its as if its stuck, the only way to get it to move and to start to really accelerate, is to really step on the pedal.

Is there a way to incraese idle RPMS ? Or is this something programmed into ecu ?

[Donutz]

I believe idle is programmed into the ecu. Your RPM's shouldn't fluctuate that much while the ECU is relearning. Yes, it is possible that you have vaccuum leak.