View Full Version : New clutch possibilities.
alhope34
06-01-2010, 07:02 PM
Well, I'm coming up to 100,000kms soon. I want to change out my clutch by 120k kms at most, but I don't know what I want to do yet. If I catch it early enough, it is alright to reuse the original flywheel? Ours are dual mass and not machinable as most of you know. It also costs $960 plus taxes new. Our OEM clutch is only about $560 plus taxes from what I was told. If possible, I'd like to just get the OEM clutch and put it on the original flywheel. Would there be any possible problems if I do this? If I have to change the flywheel, I'll probably get the 11lb Fidanza purely based on price.
My other option is to get the ACT 4 or 6 puck clutch and flywheel kit. Anyone have any experience with ACT clutches/flywheels? Are they any good? Do they last as long as OEM? Will the extra grab work my motor mounts too hard?
Anyone know what other parts I will need to order along with the clutch and flywheel? Pilot or throw-out bearings?
bluecraze07
06-01-2010, 08:57 PM
Any reason why your setting a limit to yourself as to when you want to replace the clutch? Is it not grabbing well anymore?
alhope34
06-01-2010, 09:07 PM
Taught a dozen or so people to drive manual on it, I've burnt it a few times doing full throttle shifting, launching it hard quite often. I don't want it to get metal on metal or to the point where I'm stuck somewhere with it not grabbing enough to even drive. By the end of my 94 Probe GT's life the clutch was getting pretty bad and a couple times scared me when it would slip in 4th or 5th gear going up hills.
So do you have any experience or opinions about what I should get?
bluecraze07
06-01-2010, 09:12 PM
Taught a dozen or so people to drive manual on it, I've burnt it a few times doing full throttle shifting, launching it hard quite often. I don't want it to get metal on metal or to the point where I'm stuck somewhere with it not grabbing enough to even drive. By the end of my 94 Probe GT's life the clutch was getting pretty bad and a couple times scared me when it would slip in 4th or 5th gear going up hills.
So do you have any experience or opinions about what I should get?
Teaching them on a Mazdaspeed 3 was probably a bad idea haha. The clutch on the speed 3's are so sensitive as it is already, sometimes even experienced manual drivers have problems with it. Anyways, if I were you, I would go for an Exedy clutch, either OEM, stage 1 or 2 depending weather or not your running more power than stock. I would also go for the lightweight flywheel while your at it. This way if you do need a new one later down the road, you would save on the labour by getting it all done at once. Just my two cents
alhope34
06-01-2010, 09:22 PM
Alright, well Exedy doesn't make a clutch for the MS3, I just checked their site. I know they make the OEM clutches for the regular Mazda 3 that Mazda uses, but the Mazda 3 and MS3 clutches and flywheels are completely different.
On a side note, there were only 2 or 3 people who had problems with driving my car. 95% of the ability to learn manual is the teacher. My fiance is a good example. My MS3 is the first car she has ever driven, and she has never over-rev'd it or stalled it starting from a stop. She has only stalled twice at the very beginning forgetting to put the clutch in when coming to a stop.
Anyways, back on topic! I need more opinions! Fobio, you have anything to say about this topic?
Fobio
06-01-2010, 11:53 PM
not much and not enough...
I'm nearing 80K and I did the clutch test in 5th and 6th and mine is fine...mind you I don't abuse my clutch nor have any non-males ever driven my car...so....lol...
anyway, do the clutch test first...replacing the clutch shouldn't be limited by the number of miles you have, but if you're towing then yeah, upgrade...
most ppl do their clutch while they have other things to do in there...otherwise, labour should be your MAJOR concern, not parts...
for parts, try and catch guys in the states fire selling due to platform switch or blow-up...lotsa guys have shit sitting there, like a clutch and flywheel and not install it due to cost of labour...then their cars blows, cuz they drive their car to the point where they need a back up clutch sitting there...haha...
hey, any links on the hitch? I might make a up-tilt tire rack that uses a hitch.
doughboyr6
06-02-2010, 08:05 AM
is there a mazdaspeed clutch for the speed3?
i got the mazdaspeed clutch for the regular 3 and i love it.
very driveable, a little stiffer and a more prounounced grab.
alhope34
06-02-2010, 04:12 PM
No, I don't believe there is. From what I head just after I bought the car back in '07, the MS3 came stock already with the Mazdaspeed stage 2 clutch for the normal MZ3.
Sean80
06-02-2010, 05:55 PM
I wouldn't switch out the clutch unless you need to. Clutches last depending on driving style. My mom has a '99 protege that my brother and I learned to drive on, it has 260,000kms, and still has the original clutch. It was the first car that both my brother and I drove on our own as well ( 16-17 years old = driving the shit out of it lol). You will know when your clutch is starting to go, so I'd wait until then unless you have money to burn.
MRT_MS3
06-02-2010, 09:27 PM
I wouldn't switch out the clutch unless you need to. Clutches last depending on driving style. My mom has a '99 protege that my brother and I learned to drive on, it has 260,000kms, and still has the original clutch. It was the first car that both my brother and I drove on our own as well ( 16-17 years old = driving the shit out of it lol). You will know when your clutch is starting to go, so I'd wait until then unless you have money to burn.
+1 If you plan on changing the flywheel and clutch, definitely wait til it starts slipping. If your worried that it could go around the 120K mark, then bank some money for the clutch just incase it does go.
Unoriginalusername
06-03-2010, 05:07 PM
clutches give you warning, I'd wait until you start seeing the signs of a slipping clutch before worrying about it.
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