lack of power till high RPM

[CanSpeed 3]

So this exact samething happend to me last year after i installed my Fujita F5 CAI.

If im coming on the highway in 2nd gear and try to hit 3rd in a high rpm (lets say 5-6000rpm) when i switch to 3rd the motor seems to fall on its face. Rmps wont go up very fast, and you can kinda hear the motor holding back and it will slowly rev to 5000 rpms again, then it pulls hard like normal.

So incase thats confusing.. once i hit 3rd its sluggish, till 5000rpm and it will pull normally.

Car hasnt done it in a long time, but it did happen for a few days back last summer, if i remember right it was after i put my CAI on. Then ran great untill today whenit started again.

Only serious motor mods i have is Fujita F5 CAI and Magnaflow CBE with TWM shortshift, running 89 octane. It almost feels like its not getting enough air, but filters pretty clean and i cant see how 2.75" pipe would restrict any air.

Anything you guys can think of would be great, as i would kill to figure it out since im not even sure where to start looking. Id like to go down the road (on a clean sunny day) without intake to see if its restricting but it wont run without sensor. Im thinking it could possibly be my clutch maybe? or possibly my cat is clogged. Any opinons would be helpful guys!

[CanSpeed 3]

Just another thought ive replaced my spark plugs about 40-50k ago with irdiums NGK for the mazda 3. Not sure if they had the right gapping but thought id mention that.

[sas]

I’m thinking about your case but can’t find a reasonable explanation of that behavior.Spark plugs should cause the same at first and second speeds too, and usually it’s associating with damp weather. The torque converter should cause a shock at such high rpms. Not much like on the throttle position sensor. Pay attention to the engine sound , maybe there is a knock in moment of shifting.

[JayJay18]

So this exact samething happend to me last year after i installed my Fujita F5 CAI.

If im coming on the highway in 2nd gear and try to hit 3rd in a high rpm (lets say 5-6000rpm) when i switch to 3rd the motor seems to fall on its face. Rmps wont go up very fast, and you can kinda hear the motor holding back and it will slowly rev to 5000 rpms again, then it pulls hard like normal.

So incase thats confusing.. once i hit 3rd its sluggish, till 5000rpm and it will pull normally.

Car hasnt done it in a long time, but it did happen for a few days back last summer, if i remember right it was after i put my CAI on. Then ran great untill today whenit started again.

Only serious motor mods i have is Fujita F5 CAI and Magnaflow CBE with TWM shortshift, running 89 octane. It almost feels like its not getting enough air, but filters pretty clean and i cant see how 2.75" pipe would restrict any air.

Anything you guys can think of would be great, as i would kill to figure it out since im not even sure where to start looking. Id like to go down the road (on a clean sunny day) without intake to see if its restricting but it wont run without sensor. Im thinking it could possibly be my clutch maybe? or possibly my cat is clogged. Any opinons would be helpful guys!

Samething with me just mine is Tiptronic. I thought it was the ebrake cable but then also realized that when i hit high rpms at that point it speeds up fine.
If it was a misfire you would have a check engine light on same thing with the air/fuel percentage, the sensor would make the check engine light come on.
Spark plugs are definetely something that COULD affect your engine hesistation but if you said you got new ones then im not quite sure.

I would try plugs first, then maybe your throttle body might be a little dirty

[CanSpeed 3]

I’m thinking about your case but can’t find a reasonable explanation of that behavior.Spark plugs should cause the same at first and second speeds too, and usually it’s associating with damp weather. The torque converter should cause a shock at such high rpms. Not much like on the throttle position sensor. Pay attention to the engine sound , maybe there is a knock in moment of shifting.



Checked, trannys mint. Its manual btw (for jayjay18) and ive cleaned my throttle body a number of times.

It feels like its either not getting enough fuel, or its lacking air intill it hits that rpm. And its very noticable! I just dont get it!!! so mad after all this work.

[sas]

I was confused by fact that you use the second gear on the highway. So, it’s the manual transmission. I suppose, you already have restored the “brains”. The fuel pump with poor performance must throw a CEL when moving at high speed. I think there is something with MAF readings , but I’m afraid it can’t be checked without recording the engine data.

[JayJay18]

I was confused by fact that you use the second gear on the highway. So, it’s the manual transmission. I suppose, you already have restored the “brains”. The fuel pump with poor performance must throw a CEL when moving at high speed. I think there is something with MAF readings , but I’m afraid it can’t be checked without recording the engine data.

Well i have an auto transmission but use tiptronic all the time

[Default User]

Air/fuel or timing.

Your plugs could be worn - iridiums are great for wearing out before 60K
Filter's clean, so double check the MAF
check your coilpacks also, a little moisture can mess everything up.
Re-set your ECU

I can't even remember if my CEL even works LOL!

[Donutz]

Its a stretch, but have you looked at the flaps in the intake mani? I wonder if maybe they've seized up and don't completely open until higher rpm.

[JayJay18]

Air/fuel or timing.

Your plugs could be worn - iridiums are great for wearing out before 60K
Filter's clean, so double check the MAF
check your coilpacks also, a little moisture can mess everything up.
Re-set your ECU

I can't even remember if my CEL even works LOL!

ECU reset does nothing tried it already

all filters are clean seeing as they were are replaced recently, now the plugs i will change in a couple days and see how that goes and coilpacks ill try if sparks fail.

Jason did make a good point thought because a couple months ago Mazda said i should get and Air/fuel service to clean the muffler, throttle body and etc.
So it could as well be that ill post if any of this works

[CanSpeed 3]

I was confused by fact that you use the second gear on the highway. So, it’s the manual transmission. I suppose, you already have restored the “brains”. The fuel pump with poor performance must throw a CEL when moving at high speed. I think there is something with MAF readings , but I’m afraid it can’t be checked without recording the engine data.

Would going to the dealership be the best idea to get it recorded? I reset ECU last night and its driving great again, but im sure after 300km it will set back in.

Ive check/cleaned intake flap. Everythings fine there.
Will check coils and plugs tonight and see whats going on there.

So i did notice something, with my short shifter if im banging gears faster than normal. It almost seems like the gears get changed to fast before the throttle body can adjust to the new RPMs. Think it makes any sense? Noticed switching normally i dont get the problem as much.

NO CEL btw.

sas use that mazda brain of yours, I know you can figure this one out!

[sas]

Dealer is able to find the problem without recording and analyzing the data by hand,his tool has a special testing routines and access to all engine parameters. All depends on how dealer is “interested” in results.For amateur recording can be used elm327 with scanmaster or proscan software.The graph can shed some light on this problem. Possible, if problem is in the CAI, you will need in dealer, in any way, to recalibrate the MAF (seems to me this function also is in dealer’s tool).Since that problem is dependant on the “learning” process there is something with one of the “analogue” sensors. Pedal position and throttle position are duplicated by two sensors,so most like the problem is linked to the MAF sensor. Possible the MAF cleaning can help slightly. It’s just my opinion, who knows what it is in reality.

[CanSpeed 3]

Dealer is able to find the problem without recording and analyzing the data by hand,his tool has a special testing routines and access to all engine parameters. All depends on how dealer is “interested” in results.For amateur recording can be used elm327 with scanmaster or proscan software.The graph can shed some light on this problem. Possible, if problem is in the CAI, you will need in dealer, in any way, to recalibrate the MAF (seems to me this function also is in dealer’s tool).Since that problem is dependant on the “learning” process there is something with one of the “analogue” sensors. Pedal position and throttle position are duplicated by two sensors,so most like the problem is linked to the MAF sensor. Possible the MAF cleaning can help slightly. It’s just my opinion, who knows what it is in reality.

Hmm that reminds me. My CAI pulled my maf sensor wires apart. Orillia Mazda told me if i cant find any at the wrecking yard to use one from a protege5 since they are the exact same. Any chances tha could be my problem? If i reset ecu its fine for a week or 2 then sets in again

[RECREATIONAL_ANXIETY]

Hmm that reminds me. My CAI pulled my maf sensor wires apart. Orillia Mazda told me if i cant find any at the wrecking yard to use one from a protege5 since they are the exact same. Any chances tha could be my problem? If i reset ecu its fine for a week or 2 then sets in again

I would definitely say that could be your problem. If the MAF wires are not recording airflow accurately, the ECU is going to be altering the fuel delivery to match the airflow it "thinks" is entering the TB.

[CanSpeed 3]

I would definitely say that could be your problem. If the MAF wires are not recording airflow accurately, the ECU is going to be altering the fuel delivery to match the airflow it "thinks" is entering the TB.

But saying that, its apparently the exact same maf as the mazda3. Was told this by the mazda parts group, and i know these guys know there stuff, delt a lot with them.

[RECREATIONAL_ANXIETY]

But saying that, its apparently the exact same maf as the mazda3. Was told this by the mazda parts group, and i know these guys know there stuff, delt a lot with them.

Oh, so you actually did replace the MAF? You didn't make that clear in your last post. I wonder if it could be a throttle position sensor issue. If it's not reading correct position, the fuel ratio will be off which would be more noticable at lower rpm. The ECU is capable of making corrections for a faulty sensor, based on the information it receives from the other sensors - but it takes longer to do so... do you experience any issues in any other gears?

[CanSpeed 3]

Oh, so you actually did replace the MAF? You didn't make that clear in your last post. I wonder if it could be a throttle position sensor issue. If it's not reading correct position, the fuel ratio will be off which would be more noticable at lower rpm. The ECU is capable of making corrections for a faulty sensor, based on the information it receives from the other sensors - but it takes longer to do so... do you experience any issues in any other gears?

Well same sypmtoms in all gears since its an rpm issue, i dont notice it in first because it revs so quickly. How do i fix or adjust the sensor, where is it even located? Any info on this would be awesome!

[sas]

I heard that the protégé uses the same sensor as Mazda 3. The location of sensors follows from their names, throttle pedal and throttle body. MAF is installed on the intake manifold.
I always knew that there should be something more serious than a bit inaccurate MAF.
Mazda was born as a reliable car , problems usually happen when people apply their hands.
Most like you have a crimped or soldered MAF wires, examine them visually and move and hold the harness with working engine in different positions, you need in 20-30 seconds to make the PCM to register an error. As it happens on all speeds, the spark plugs and coils are remaining
among suspected, but I think it’s something more “global”. Look carefully in the engine compartment , maybe there is something wrong, even low coolant level can to cause such problem.

[CanSpeed 3]

I heard that the protégé uses the same sensor as Mazda 3. The location of sensors follows from their names, throttle pedal and throttle body. MAF is installed on the intake manifold.
I always knew that there should be something more serious than a bit inaccurate MAF.
Mazda was born as a reliable car , problems usually happen when people apply their hands.
Most like you have a crimped or soldered MAF wires, examine them visually and move and hold the harness with working engine in different positions, you need in 20-30 seconds to make the PCM to register an error. As it happens on all speeds, the spark plugs and coils are remaining
among suspected, but I think it’s something more “global”. Look carefully in the engine compartment , maybe there is something wrong, even low coolant level can to cause such problem.

Gonna rip into the motor tonight and take a look at everything. Starting with plugs/coils.

[JayJay18]

Went to Mazda today and figured out that the Handbrake cable on both wheels at the back were seized so try and check your cables.

[sas]

Yes, look the all, cracks, hoses, wires (especially strained) ,connectors. There already was a thread. We were dancing around spark plugs and misfiring, in the end it was a bad ground wire of the MAF.There should be a changing rpms when you move the MAF harness.
I even have a theory why it happens, but too long to explain and this is just a theory.

JayJay, I’m glad you figured it out .I’m not ignoring you I just had no idea what was your problem there was no information to do any conclusion. And I’m very limited in time now, before my vacation.

[CanSpeed 3]

Thanks sas ill see what i can come up with

[JayJay18]

Yes, look the all, cracks, hoses, wires (especially strained) ,connectors. There already was a thread. We were dancing around spark plugs and misfiring, in the end it was a bad ground wire of the MAF.There should be a changing rpms when you move the MAF harness.
I even have a theory why it happens, but too long to explain and this is just a theory.

JayJay, I’m glad you figured it out .I’m not ignoring you I just had no idea what was your problem there was no information to do any conclusion. And I’m very limited in time now, before my vacation.

Thats fine its does seem to be a little sluggish at times still so this thread is helping me check all those things just in case lol

Thanks