How are your Angel Eyes wired up?

[yearoftherat]

I'm almost finished modding an extra set of headlights with CCFLs and clear lenses and have a few questions to ask of the members who already have Angel Eyes installed on their car.
How are your angel Eyes wired up to your car and why did you choose this method.
Right now I'm running my HID's with the ant-flicker cap.
Can I hook up the CCFL's to the relay/anti-flicker mod/headlight harness and use them as DRL's ? I know going this way I will have hook my HID's to the front parking signal wire for them to work.
If so can I hook them up to work in conjunction with the indie fog mod?

[Gizzmo_jr]

Switch in one of the blanks on the dash. Power comes from the blank that people normally use under the hood. On only when key in ON, it's a fuel fuse. Buy for $4 one of those mini add-a-circuits from Canadian tire, nice and clean, easy and fully fused.

[yearoftherat]

When you say mini-circuit, do you mean the wiring that has a built in fuse holder?

[Iceman_F1]

Voted for "No friggen clue" option only cause I'm not 100% sure HOW it's wired. Just know that it's wired that when the car is on the "ON" position (natural rest after car starts...2nd click), the lights are on. No switch or anything to control the on/off of them. Takes some time for them to turn off after stopping the car but that's how I wanted them wired in the first place. Basically on all the time when driving...have had them for over 1 year now no issues.

[yearoftherat]

Takes some time for them to turn off after stopping the car but that's how I wanted them wired in the first place.

From what I've read on the MZ3 forum, when you wire it up straight to the fuse box, they stay on for a while after you turn the car off. Similiar to the indie fog mod which also uses a blank spot in the fuse panel.

[Iceman_F1]

From what I've read on the MZ3 forum, when you wire it up straight to the fuse box, they stay on for a while after you turn the car off. Similiar to the indie fog mod which also uses a blank spot in the fuse panel.

Yup, that's correct. I have both the indie fog mod and that doing the same thing. Wasn't 100% sure it was done the same way.

[Gizzmo_jr]

When you say mini-circuit, do you mean the wiring that has a built in fuse holder?

http://store.42draftdesigns.com/assets/images/electrical/add-a-circuit.jpg

Yup, and I did my fog mod through the same.

[btown-mazda]

I have mine wired to the parking lights. I've been thinking about wiring them to a switch. Anyone know where I can get this switch from?

[Noisy Crow]

From what I've read on the MZ3 forum, when you wire it up straight to the fuse box, they stay on for a while after you turn the car off. Similiar to the indie fog mod which also uses a blank spot in the fuse panel.


The nice thing about doing it this way is that it is dead simple. Run the wires to the fuse box, crimp on the fuse extender wire, stick a fuse in the holder and put the extender in the fuse slot. Done. If you like it, great. If not, they you can think about running a wire inside the car, installing a switch etc.

The 2nd easiest way to do this is to tap into the parking lights. There is a tutorial around here or M3F showing how to do it, but basically you pull the connector off of the parking light bulb socket, stick the trigger wire from the angel eyes into the socket, reinsert the bulb and then put everything back together. No cutting or splicing required.

[Noisy Crow]

I have mine wired to the parking lights. I've been thinking about wiring them to a switch. Anyone know where I can get this switch from?

Sayal (Matheson & Dixie) has a nice selection.

[yearoftherat]

Thanks for the pic Matt..Are your CCFL's also hooked up to a relay or straight to the switch/fuse box via circuit?

[WeatherB]

Thanks for the pic Matt..Are your CCFL's also hooked up to a relay or straight to the switch/fuse box via circuit?

Hook it up to the independent fog light spot in the fuse box if you have a NA 3. Put a 5A fuse in front of it and you're done.

[Riftler]

I got my Angel Eyes wired up as my DRL's with a switch and cut my DRL's since my first idea was to have my colored angel eyes be turned on by it self when I wanted it to, w/o the ugly yellowish DRL color getting in the way.

[yearoftherat]

The 2nd easiest way to do this is to tap into the parking lights. There is a tutorial around here or M3F showing how to do it, but basically you pull the connector off of the parking light bulb socket, stick the trigger wire from the angel eyes into the socket, reinsert the bulb and then put everything back together. No cutting or splicing required.

OK dumb asian moment ....What I don't understand is if you are running an aftermarket HID kit and you've already tap the front signal/parking light. How does the above method work? Don't both HID's and CCFL's come on when you turn on your parking lights?

[Noisy Crow]

OK dumb asian moment ....What I don't understand is if you are running an aftermarket HID kit and you've already tap the front signal/parking light. How does the above method work? Don't both HID's and CCFL's come on when you turn on your parking lights?

Well... if you have your HIDs triggered by the parking lights: yes.

The reason people use the parking lights to trigger HIDs is to avoid DRL flickering.

It looks like you need to decide what combination(s) of lights you want to be able to have going, and then figure out the best way to connect things up.


Examples:

Everything off (HIDs, parking lights, angel eyes) with the car running
Parking lights only
HIDs and parking lights
Angel eyes and parking lights
Angel eyes only all the time
HIDs, angel eyes and parking lights
HIDs are the DRLs and are on all the time except when parking brake is applied (add a flicker suppressor capacitor)
Etc.
For my car, when I install the angel eyes I am going with "always on when the car is running" and disable headlight DRLs and use the angel eyes for my DRLs. I might add an override switch at a later time when I am running other wires through the firewall.

(I am also going to add a wire going to the parking lights in case I change my mind... save having to pull the bumper off again to make the change... factory HIDs are nice, but it the large housing blocks access to the parking light bulb.)

[yearoftherat]

Me understand Grasshopper....

This is what I have planned:

Angel eyes as DRLs
Indie Fog mod (possibly run same time as DRL Angel Eyes)
Turn on parking lights at same time with HID's

[JayJay18]

If you have an aftermarket alarm tapping the signal lights to your HIDs is a bad idea because when you lock/unlock your car, your HIDs will go on an off with the signal lights

[Noisy Crow]

I have been thinking about this a bit....... we can use a capacitor on the headlight wire to prevent pulsing and keep the relay in the "on" state. What about doing the reverse... only letting the relay turn on when it sees steady current. We are basically just talking a low-pass filter...... Then the relay would ignore the DRL pulsing, but turn on when it gets the steady 12v-14v when the headlights are turned on............

[yearoftherat]

I have been thinking about this a bit....... we can use a capacitor on the headlight wire to prevent pulsing and keep the relay in the "on" state. What about doing the reverse... only letting the relay turn on when it sees steady current. We are basically just talking a low-pass filter...... Then the relay would ignore the DRL pulsing, but turn on when it gets the steady 12v-14v when the headlights are turned on............

Huh ?!?!?

[Noisy Crow]

Huh ?!?!?

Something that eats the the current when it is pulsing but lets it through to trigger the HID relay when the current is steady.

[Noisy Crow]

Okay, I've thought about this a bit more.

Simple to way to kill your DRLs, and have your HIDs activated by the parking lights without them blinking when you lock your car:

Connect up your HIDs using a relay harness and an anti-flicker capacitor. Normally this would have your HIDs full bright all the time.
But instead of running the +ve lead from the battery harness directly to the battery, run it through another relay. Connect up the second relay is activated by the parking lights.

When both light switch is set for headlights the parking lights , your HIDs are on. When the switch is set to just parking lights are on, only the parking lights are on. When you lock your car and the alarm flashes the parking lights, your HIDs won't activate (unless you left your lights on -- nothing's perfect :) )

Finally, you can also use the +ve output of the second relay to also power your halos. They will be on when the parking lights are on.

[yearoftherat]

Interesting...I'lll have to think about that one.

So I'm all set to install and wire them up. I figured out the connections on the back of the protege5 fog switch. Now my next questionis does anyone know who sells this cable covering?


http://www.electriduct.com/assets/images/black_expando-fr-plus-s.jpg

It's by Bentley-Harris and is an expandable wire covering. More info here:
http://www.electriduct.com/Bentley-Harris-Expandoreg-FR-Plus_p_537.html&catid=156

Canadian Tire just sells the plastic wire covering stuff in the automitive section but I need something smaller in diameter.

[Noisy Crow]

Now my next question is does anyone know who sells this cable covering?

Canadian Tire just sells the plastic wire covering stuff in the automotive section but I need something smaller in diameter.

I use ¼" PVC tubing:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PVC-Tubing-Wire-Conduit-1-4-inch-Black-10-ft-roll-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5886d1fa65QQitemZ38021 9030117QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear

They will sell you longer lengths if you ask -- I bought a 40' length last time I ordered from them.

I have used it to protect the wires for my trunk popper, mirror wiring, etc.

And they have this, too:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fire-Rated-Braided-Expandable-Wire-Sleeving-10ft-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5887b60224QQitemZ38023 3974308QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear

[yearoftherat]

Almost done....
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/cjlee9/Miscellanous/IMG_1135.jpg
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/cjlee9/Miscellanous/IMG_1137.jpg

Whats left to do:

Wire them up to the switch.
Install HID fogs and wire them up too.
Put everything back together...whew a long day!!

[Noisy Crow]

Your Hellas are showing! :chuckle

What kind of switch did you end up using? And how did you run it through the firewall (Hood release grommet? Throttle cable blank?

[Gizzmo_jr]

Hood latch gromet I found was easiest when I did mine.

[yearoftherat]

Your Hellas are showing! :chuckle

What kind of switch did you end up using? And how did you run it through the firewall (Hood release grommet? Throttle cable blank?

I ended up buying a protege5 fog switch from MOT ( NOT CHEAP..damn OEM fetish ) and ran the wires thru the hood release grommet.

[GGood]

I've sent a PM to Gizzmo already asking this, and I know this is long after the fact, but I was wondering if someone could elaborate on how he's saying he has things wired? The "fuel fuse" pictured only has one wire going to it, so I'm trying to figure out how this works? Wouldn't it need a wire to the lights and another from the fuse box under the hood to the switch inside? And would the switch allow you to turn off the "always on" (with key ON) functionality?

I have a set of Orion V2s on the way and would like to be able to wire them up as soon as they get here (and hopefully avoid buying the $30 wiring harness, if possible) and I don't like the idea of tapping into the parking lights because even with the parking light delete mod it would still light up my LED tails, and I've worked to strip as much color from my car as possible. TIA!

[yearoftherat]

The fuel fuse/ circuit will power your angel eyes. For my setup,my wiring is like this:
- The extra circuit is located in the fuse box under the hood.
- I have the OEM switch which is wired to the extra circuit.
-This will route power from the circuit through the switch to the angel eyes.
The switch gives me the option of when I want the angel eyes on.
I'm running the indie-fog mod so my fogs are now my drls. My aftermarket HIDs get the trigger signal from my parking lights.

[yearoftherat]

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/cjlee9/Miscellanous/IMG_1154.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/cjlee9/Miscellanous/IMG_1152.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/cjlee9/Miscellanous/IMG_1141.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/cjlee9/Miscellanous/IMG_1155.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/cjlee9/Miscellanous/IMG_1158.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k22/cjlee9/Miscellanous/IMG_1139.jpg

[LordSpawn]

whats the cheapest option for getting angel eyes installed?

[GGood]

The fuel fuse/ circuit will power your angel eyes. For my setup,my wiring is like this:
- The extra circuit is located in the fuse box under the hood.
- I have the OEM switch which is wired to the extra circuit.
-This will route power from the circuit through the switch to the angel eyes.
The switch gives me the option of when I want the angel eyes on.
I'm running the indie-fog mod so my fogs are now my drls. My aftermarket HIDs get the trigger signal from my parking lights.

Thanks YotR. Just to clarify though, you have a wire running from the extra circuit in the fuse box under the hood through the firewall and inside to the switch and also a wire running from that same extra circuit to your halos? Because in that fuel fuse thing Gizzmo has pictured, I only see one wire... If the halos aren't in fact wired into that extra circuit, what are they tapping into? Also, with the switch in ON position, do the halos just come on automatically with the key in ON position? But you can turn off the auto ON functionality with the switch? I have OEM fogs so no need for me to run the indie fog mod btw, so that's not a factor.

[yearoftherat]

whats the cheapest option for getting angel eyes installed?

Not trying to be a smart-ass but installing them yourself is the most obvious answer.




Thanks YotR. Just to clarify though, you have a wire running from the extra circuit in the fuse box under the hood through the firewall and inside to the switch and also a wire running from that same extra circuit to your halos? Because in that fuel fuse thing Gizzmo has pictured, I only see one wire... If the halos aren't in fact wired into that extra circuit, what are they tapping into? Also, with the switch in ON position, do the halos just come on automatically with the key in ON position? But you can turn off the auto ON functionality with the switch? I have OEM fogs so no need for me to run the indie fog mod btw, so that's not a factor.

The circuit supplies the power to the switch which is wired to the positive wires of the angel eyes. With the switch depressed/on position, the halos come on automatically.When the switch is depressed one more time/off position, the halos are off.

[Gizzmo_jr]

The circuit supplies the power to the switch which is wired to the positive wires of the angel eyes. With the switch depressed/on position, the halos come on automatically.When the switch is depressed one more time/off position, the halos are off.

Same answer different wording;

The Add-a-circuit introduces another fuse to an existing spot, hence the single wire coming off. The circuit, fuel fuse, is within the fuse box itself with the main wiring harness.
That positive connection goes through the firewall, into a switch. The switch will act like a 'master override' from the fuel fuse circuit, which is only powered when the car is on.

YOTR's switch, is an older Mazda OEM one, much nicer. I used a cheap rocker switch.

[LordSpawn]

Not trying to be a smart-ass but installing them yourself is the most obvious answer.


i meant cheapest/good quality ones to buy didnt mean for installation itself didnt word it right my bad

[yearoftherat]

i meant cheapest/good quality ones to buy didnt mean for installation itself didnt word it right my bad

There are a a couple of sets up for sale on the classified section that might interest you


http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=71085


http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=69944

[GGood]

Thanks guys. I'm a wiring newb, the most complicated wiring I've done so far is the low-note horn mod. Is this how it's wired and if not what are the differences? And what amperage fuses should I use? The 10 and 20 like in the picture Gizzmo posted? (I assumed it was a stock photo.) Thanks!



http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/ZuumZuum/Wiring_02_zps34a22074.jpg

[GGood]

mmkay, apparently I can't post anything with HTML, URLs, or images... I keep getting awaiting moderation and it never gets posted... It would really be much easier to explain with the technical drawing I did but here goes, fourth try:

Thanks guys. I'm a wiring newb, the most complicated wiring I've done so far is the low-note horn mod.

So I get that I should run the wire from the mini circuit to the switch's (power?) lead now, and I should probably wire all the halos' positives to a longer wire to run through the firewall and to the switch's accessory lead? I'm also not sure how I'll splice this (4 small wires to one larger one); I don't imagine a tap splice would work? And I just run the ground/negative from the halos to something nearby? Does the switch itself need a negative/ground as well? I was thinking of using an illuminated LED switch and it has 3 prongs/leads, and I'm not sure if I need to run the halos' grounds to that, one just from the switch itself, or whether a ground is necessary at all to or from the switch? This would all be so much easier with technical drawings...

I was also wondering what amperage fuses should I use? The 10 and 20 like in the picture Gizzmo posted? (I assumed it was a stock photo.)

[yearoftherat]

You basically have it right.
I bought an OEM Protege switch which has 4 prongs/leads: 2 are used for the wiring from the halo and mini circuit, 2 are used for the dash illumination. I grounded the halos on a separate wire to a fender bolt.

I went the extra mile and used 9005 male and female connectors:

http://i21.ebayimg.com/04/i/001/42/59/dce4_35.JPG

The connector allow me to remove the whole headlight assembly w/o having to cut/reattach the halo wiring.

[GGood]

Thanks YotR, I think I get it now. Picking the brains of a couple local guys at O'Reilly's and the local hardware store's electrical dept. (they employ retired pros from the relevant fields) helped me get most of it. I think I'll use bullet connectors to attach the halos so they're easily removed if necessary, and I think the Orion V2s may even come that way already? I'll post a detailed technical drawing (assuming I can ever actually post any photos/URLs...) including all connectors and everything once I'm done for future DIYers.

The one thing I still don't know is what size fuses I need to use. I was told something like 2-2.5 x the amperage of the LEDs or something?

[yearoftherat]

I tried the bullet connectors and in my personal experience, they were a pita to disconnect (could be just me though).
Looking at the Umitza website, I don't think they come with conectors.
Since LED's don't take much power to light them up, the fuse that's included with the mini circuit should be enough to handle the load.

[GGood]

Most mini circuits I've looked at didn't come with fuses but the kit I ended up buying did. Thing is, it's got a complete set of low amp fuses; 3, 5, 7.5, and 10. I'll probably just go with the 3A.

Also, it looks like Umnitza didn't even have the halos in stock (contrary to their website) and even though the guy I ordered from said they'd ship early this week I just found out their shipment won't come in until the 14th. :(

As far as the connectors on the Orion V2s I've seen them on a BMW install here: http://www.fastm.com/m3/angeleyes_orionv2.html. Assuming they're the same it may make things easier. Kinda sad you have to go to a 3rd party to even see pics of the connectors for the product you're ordering, LOL... Not to mention no install manual either, which would be handy to have prior to install. Not what I'd expect of the "premiere" Angel Eyes company.

[GGood]

Most mini circuits I've looked at didn't come with fuses but the kit I ended up buying did. Thing is, it's got a complete set of low amp fuses; 3, 5, 7.5, and 10. I'll probably just go with the 3A.

Also, it looks like Umnitza didn't even have the halos in stock (contrary to their website) and even though the guy I ordered from said they'd ship early this week I just found out their shipment won't come in until the 14th. :(

As far as the connectors on the Orion V2s I've seen them on a BMW install here: (URL omitted because I CAN'T POST THEM! Google "fastm" and "orion"...) Assuming they're the same it may make things easier. Kinda sad you have to go to a 3rd party to even see pics of the connectors for the product you're ordering, LOL... Not to mention no install manual either, which would be handy to have prior to install. Not what I'd expect of the "premiere" Angel Eyes company.

[GGood]

Wow, looks like it took awhile to moderate my posts with URLs and images...

Just so people don't get confused, I think this is the right way to wire this?


http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/ZuumZuum/Wiring_03-01_zpsc89ff2c3.jpg

[yearoftherat]

Sorry for the late reply to the thread. Except for the different switches, your wiring diagram is how mine is set up.

[GGood]

Thanks! I ended up doing most of the wiring yesterday in anticipation of finally getting the halos in a week or so. I ran the ground for the LED switch to the convenient ground right there under the dash, not back into the engine compartment, which was a relief. Just running those two positives through the hood release grommet was a pain! I can't imagine how someone who's larger could even do it, though longer arms may help?

Now I just need to figure out where to ground the halos themselves and where exactly the fuse slot for the mini circuit is (I'll probably just Google "indie fog mod" for that info). Also need to figure out a better/less ugly way to run the wires in the engine compartment and dremel out the blank face plate for the switch.

[GGood]

I went with this switch, which is only slightly smaller than the face plate and which works with the "guts" of the blank which I'll epoxy it to. The fact that it's a rectangular cut should help also.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3097457


http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-4724926w345.jpg

[yearoftherat]

Thanks! I ended up doing most of the wiring yesterday in anticipation of finally getting the halos in a week or so. I ran the ground for the LED switch to the convenient ground right there under the dash, not back into the engine compartment, which was a relief. Just running those two positives through the hood release grommet was a pain! I can't imagine how someone who's larger could even do it, though longer arms may help?

Now I just need to figure out where to ground the halos themselves and where exactly the fuse slot for the mini circuit is (I'll probably just Google "indie fog mod" for that info). Also need to figure out a better/less ugly way to run the wires in the engine compartment and dremel out the blank face plate for the switch.

I ended up using a straightened metal coat hanger to thread the wires through the grommet.

Indie fog mod instructions : http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=211345

I used automotive wire looms to keep the wires together to keep the engine compartment from looking like a birds nest...lol

[GGood]

Ahh, I just jabbed the membrane a couple times with something sharp them got my arm all the way up in there, under the dash, and after much struggling eventually got both of them through.

Thanks for the link!

[GGood]

I may try to just piggyback the ¼" PVC tubing that's already existing for the airbag (or at least for what I assume is the airbag) for part of it. It's that other wire that goes through the hood release grommet.

[GGood]

I thought I had the location that I needed the mini circuit in in the fuse box down (ENG BAR 3) until I saw that the location of that fuse changes from year-to-year (possibly w/differences between "I", "S", and sedan/HB as well?) and after looking at my fuse box, I noticed that the ENG BAR 4 slot is completely empty. Should I just run the switch to that to run as DRLs instead of using a mini circuit in ENG BAR 3? Is there a way to make that connection cleanly, safely, and not rigged looking? TIA.

Here's someone else's photo I edited to illustrate, I think this box has the same layout.


http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/ZuumZuum/fuse_box_zps1d2df0eb.jpg

[GGood]

Just an update, ENG BAR 4 worked just fine for DRLs. I just put a 3 amp fuse in the top slot in the mini circuit and left the lower slot empty. It should be noted, however, that the fuse puller bracket hits the top fuse and bends it so cut the bracket down as far as you can while still maintaining its functionality.

[GGood]

Here's how I wired em.


http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/ZuumZuum/Wiring_04_zps03a887be.jpg