Spark plug removal/installation

[Xerox]

Can someone confirm this is correct - specifically the torque spec.

SPARK PLUG REMOVAL/INSTALLATION [LF] [2.3 MZR]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

B3E011801009W08

Caution
• If a spark plug that is not as specified is installed, sealing performance will be deteriorated. Install only the specified spark plug when replacing.

1. Remove the battery cover.

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

3. Remove the plug hole plate.

4. Remove the ignition coil.

5. Remove the spark plugs using a plug-wrench.

6. Install in the reverse order of removal.

Tightening torque
10-14 N·m {1.1-1.4 kgf·m, 8-10 ft·lbf}

[bubba1983]

looks right..make sure to check the gap before you install your plug so that it is in spec!

[Halogen]

what plugs are you installing ? I hear the Bosche Platinum +4's are really good, I'm buying a set very soon.

[Xerox]

Thanks, Adam.

Halogen, I'm just gonna replace them with OEM iridium spark plugs through Flipdaddy.

[Xerox]

Anyone know where I can get a torque wrench that can measure something this low (8-10 ft·lbf)?
I've got one to do tighten lugs but it's rated for 30+ ft·lbf.
I checked Canadian Tire website and they don't seem to have anything that can measure lower.
Or should I just go by feel?

[MajesticBlueNTO]

Anyone know where I can get a torque wrench that can measure something this low (8-10 ft·lbf)?
I've got one to do tighten lugs but it's rated for 30+ ft·lbf.
I checked Canadian Tire website and they don't seem to have anything that can measure lower.
Or should I just go by feel?

you will need to find a torque wrench that measures in INCH-POUNDS (in-lbs) and then do the conversion from ft-lbs (or convert ft-lbs to N-m as all torque wrenches have N-m values). CT sells 3/8" drive torque wrenches that measure in in-lbs (http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/Wrenches/SpecialtyWrenches/PRD~0588561P/Mastercraft%252BMaximum%252BTorque%252BWrench/CROSSSELL~0588557%20Mastercraft%2BTorque%2BWrench. jsp?locale=en)

Princess Auto also sells 1/2" drive torque wrenches that go from 10 ft-lbs to 150 ft-lbs. they're cheap but do the job.

[MajesticBlueNTO]

what plugs are you installing ? I hear the Bosche Platinum +4's are really good, I'm buying a set very soon.

For your Mazda engine, stick with NGK (or Denso) plugs. There are reviews where people have put the Bosche Platinum+4 in the 2.0 or 2.3 and have it run like crap. The OEM plugs are iridium anyway so why "downgrade" to platinum?

[Fobio]

if you can not get a trq wrench (NOTE: I'm not advocating this over MBNTO's advise), you can always hand tighten and then add "1/4 turn"...some ppl also resort to tightening it with your pinky...goal is to NOT over-torque...

[Xerox]

I'll probably pickup the torque wrench at CanadianTire when they go on sale. I don't trust myself to hand tighten.

Thanks all.

[mazda lover]

found this another forum, general info

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1964332&nt=2&page=1

[mazdilla]

Keeeeeeeeeeeee-riced!

This is anal.

You don't need a torque wrench to install plugs.

Torque it 'til its seated and snug. That's somewhere between 10 & 35 ft/lbs.; depending on your strength.

Dun.

[JaYson]

I suspect Im being paranoid. but is it possible that I could get a little engine knocking/spark knock from over tightening spark plugs? (NGK Laser Iridium)

I don't have a 3/8" torque wrench, or a spark wrench. I tried to do the whole: hand tighten + 1/8 turn + 1/2 turn + 2/3 [of a quarter] turn (as per the instructions) But i suspect i mucked up the first plug i installed and first under torqued then over compensated when i tried to 'fix' it

engine starts up normally, no CELs, not sure if its legit knocking, or im paranoid... ideas?

[dentinger]

I suspect Im being paranoid. but is it possible that I could get a little engine knocking/spark knock from over tightening spark plugs? (NGK Laser Iridium)

I don't have a 3/8" torque wrench, or a spark wrench. I tried to do the whole: hand tighten + 1/8 turn + 1/2 turn + 2/3 [of a quarter] turn (as per the instructions) But i suspect i mucked up the first plug i installed and first under torqued then over compensated when i tried to 'fix' it

engine starts up normally, no CELs, not sure if its legit knocking, or im paranoid... ideas?

Paranoid.

I always install plugs 2 fingers tight. Put 2 fingers on the ratchet, then pull towards you. I've always used that technique, and never had a problem or comeback.

[TheMAN]

if you don't trust or know your own strength, use a torque wrench! I know some strong guys who don't know their own strength and constantly snap bolts off their cars... they're so strong, they just can't feel what "snug" is

normally, you only need a torque wrench for something that requires precision, like wheels, engine internals, and transmission for example

[JaYson]

Thanks guys.


I def. didn't over torque to the point where it might snap anything, (shouldn't seize anything up either).

I was mostly concerned about that compression gasket on the edge of the plug. that I "over" flattened it or something.... i will now begin the process of forgetting i ever changed the plugs at all lol

[Jackal]

Bumping.
How many spark plugs are there? Thinking of picking up up some NGK plugs (on sale) at CT and changing them.

[peterm15]

Bumping.
How many spark plugs are there? Thinking of picking up up some NGK plugs (on sale) at CT and changing them.

4 cylinder, 4 plugs.

[sarujo]

Are you at ~90k to 100k km's on your 2010 already? If not, why are you wasting money changing your plugs ??


Bumping.
How many spark plugs are there? Thinking of picking up up some NGK plugs (on sale) at CT and changing them.

[TheMAN]

exactly... spark plug intervals is every 120000km for non-turbo or every 96000km for turbo engines
these engines come from the factory with NGK Laser Iridium spark plugs, that's why they last so long... replacements should also be the same things or Denso equivalents in order to keep the same performance, fuel economy, and clean emissions from your car

[peterm15]

exactly... spark plug intervals is every 120000km for non-turbo or every 96000km for turbo engines
these engines come from the factory with NGK Laser Iridium spark plugs, that's why they last so long... replacements should also be the same things or Denso equivalents in order to keep the same performance, fuel economy, and clean emissions from your car

What's your view on servicing Mazda 3 plugs? ie. removal cleaning and regapping.

Something I have always done having been raised with older cars. Is it needed with the oem plugs and Mazda 3?

[TheMAN]

you risk breaking off or bending the very fine iridium tips... NGK nor Denso recommends gapping any of their iridium tipped spark plugs at all and I would have to agree unless you are skilled at doing so
so my recommendation is to LEAVE THEM ALONE

I just changed a set on a friend's 5 last week... it had 115000km on it... I checked the gap and it only increased 0.05mm... well within acceptable factory tolerances... I would dare taking those plugs up to 140000km if I wasn't afraid of them seizing into the engine! Iridium plugs aren't called "long life" without a good reason!

[peterm15]

Thank you.

I haven't done it yet but was debating about it as my plugs have about 90k on them. So I guess I don't need to.

Thanks again.

[killerbichon]

Trusting a mechanic to torque appropriately is a lot to ask. I watched as my snow tires were intalled last week... the guy didnt hand torque my precioius lock bolt by hand... and the lil black valve stems covers were lose!! I lost a valve stem cover and im very pissed off!

[TheMAN]

tire shop monkeys doesn't mean they're mechanics

[Jackal]

Are you at ~90k to 100k km's on your 2010 already? If not, why are you wasting money changing your plugs ??

Just over 70k. Happens rarely but when I used to start the car a second time within a few minutes it had a hard time starting the second time. I replaced the battery with a yellowtop so it's better now but still struggles when I start it a second time in quick succession. So I thought this might help. Could also be the alternator isn't as efficient as it used to be.

[Default User]

Just over 70k. Happens rarely but when I used to start the car a second time within a few minutes it had a hard time starting the second time. I replaced the battery with a yellowtop so it's better now but still struggles when I start it a second time in quick succession. So I thought this might help. Could also be the alternator isn't as efficient as it used to be.

Alternator - not at 70K
plugs - maybe
could be a bad/dirty starter ground

[Booter22]

Thank you.

I haven't done it yet but was debating about it as my plugs have about 90k on them. So I guess I don't need to.

Thanks again.

but the recomendation from factory is 5 years or 120,000km, so if your not there yet. it might even be a good idea just to remove them if its going to be another 2 years before your at 120,000 km to make sure they are not seized in by the time you want to remove them.


Just over 70k. Happens rarely but when I used to start the car a second time within a few minutes it had a hard time starting the second time. I replaced the battery with a yellowtop so it's better now but still struggles when I start it a second time in quick succession. So I thought this might help. Could also be the alternator isn't as efficient as it used to be.

do you mean you would start the car, it wouldnt warm up. the engine would be turned off and then started shortly after? like say you needed to move it a short distance, from the road to your drive way or in and around to move cars and what not?

[Booter22]

:super smiley

[peterm15]

but the recomendation from factory is 5 years or 120,000km, so if your not there yet. it might even be a good idea just to remove them if its going to be another 2 years before your at 120,000 km to make sure they are not seized in by the time you want to remove them.

Plugs were changed about 2 years ago, part of my car purchase ritual. fluid change, plug change and general lubrication.

I'll change them again come spring. I'm not one for following guidelines. I tend to shorten maintenance schedules. Probably a waste of money but I feel more comfortable, 5-6k km oil changes, 100k km plugs ect.

[TheMAN]

the guidelines weren't made by some cushy pencil pusher who thinks that the longer intervals are better marketing... to a very small extent it's an influence, but it's not the deciding factor.... engineers decide what is best after a careful risk assessment of weighing in different drivers habits, different driving conditions, different climates... the maintenance schedule in the manual is already VERY conservative

iridium plugs are rated by spark plug manufacturers for at least 140k... but mazda says 120k to be on the safe side... changing them any sooner makes you a paranoid fool, wasting money

[TheMAN]

Just over 70k. Happens rarely but when I used to start the car a second time within a few minutes it had a hard time starting the second time. I replaced the battery with a yellowtop so it's better now but still struggles when I start it a second time in quick succession. So I thought this might help. Could also be the alternator isn't as efficient as it used to be.

could be weak fuel pump
long cranks before start can be related to low fuel pressure... if your engine has run smoothly, it's NOT an ignition problem

[Booter22]

could be weak fuel pump
long cranks before start can be related to low fuel pressure... if your engine has run smoothly, it's NOT an ignition problem

the way Jackal said what seems to happen i get a problem when i move the car from the road to my driveway, and as it doesnt warm up when i go to start it later or in the morning it doesnt want to, i think someone covered that in another thread about carbon and gas vapors still in the combustion chamber causing a harder start. because if i turn it over it wont start right away. let it sit for a sec then try again and it will catch and then slowly rev up to warm up.

[peterm15]

the guidelines weren't made by some cushy pencil pusher who thinks that the longer intervals are better marketing... to a very small extent it's an influence, but it's not the deciding factor.... engineers decide what is best after a careful risk assessment of weighing in different drivers habits, different driving conditions, different climates... the maintenance schedule in the manual is already VERY conservative

iridium plugs are rated by spark plug manufacturers for at least 140k... but mazda says 120k to be on the safe side... changing them any sooner makes you a paranoid fool, wasting money

I'd rather waste a 100 bucks a years and be on the safe side then pay for it later.

Mistakes can happen during manufacturing. Problems with machines and materials can play a huge part. Human error is also a big problem.

To top it off I have an 07 with 180k km on it. Burning oil ( although not a major problem yet but notorious with the 3) also plays a part in my decisions to change things earlier.

Correct me if I'm wrong ( as you are trained and I am not) but oil burning will cause plugs to wear early. As well I'd rather change oil then pour another liter in at 5000km only for 2k.

[silverstarmazda]

turn the car "on" for about 2 seconds but dont start. you might hear a slight wuurrrrr-ing sound in the back. thats the fuel pump. let that put pressure, then start the car. it seems like your just inserting the key and starting the car. which is totally fine, but that might be contributing with the longer start ups. also remind you, CCA in the cold might be a little on the low side during cold weather. as batteries become less efficient with extreme temperatures.

[Booter22]

turn the car "on" for about 2 seconds but dont start. you might hear a slight wuurrrrr-ing sound in the back. thats the fuel pump. let that put pressure, then start the car. it seems like your just inserting the key and starting the car. which is totally fine, but that might be contributing with the longer start ups. also remind you, CCA in the cold might be a little on the low side during cold weather. as batteries become less efficient with extreme temperatures.

i usually dont start it until the chime stops. but who knows.

[TheMAN]

I'd rather waste a 100 bucks a years and be on the safe side then pay for it later.

Mistakes can happen during manufacturing. Problems with machines and materials can play a huge part. Human error is also a big problem.

To top it off I have an 07 with 180k km on it. Burning oil ( although not a major problem yet but notorious with the 3) also plays a part in my decisions to change things earlier.

Correct me if I'm wrong ( as you are trained and I am not) but oil burning will cause plugs to wear early. As well I'd rather change oil then pour another liter in at 5000km only for 2k.

the only thing that causes plug wear is heat combined with electric arcing
oil consumption does NOT cause plug wear.... oil gets burned along with fuel... the most you'll ever get is carbon build up, and that's only if the engine or plugs runs too cold

[peterm15]

Thanks for clarifying.