RPM Jumps, No Acceleration

[Halogen]

I've been noticing a change in the behavior of my 3 lately. I will hit the gas pedal like I would normally to give the car a quick boost, which you can instantly feel as the car accelerates, usually this is in 2nd gear, 3,000-5,000 rpm range. I have a CAI, so I'm not expecting huge gains in the low rpm range, but lately, whats been happening, throughout the rpm range is, that I will hit the gas pedal like before, except now, the rpm's will jumps up very very quickly, like from 2,000 right to 5,000 (noticeable revving sound of the engine, like as if in neutral) and the car will just linger then slowly pickup speed. Sometimes, it sort of sling shots up to the speed in relation to the rpm gauge. I no longer feel the comforting acceleration pull like before, and I'm sure there is something wrong, maybe an air leak in the manifold, or possibly a MAF sensor issue, i really can't pinpoint what it is, can you guys help me out. thanks

[Default User]

possibly a vaccuum leak
however I have a feeling it's something stupid silly like the recent heat and humidity we've been getting.

[stevenma188]

Is your car automatic or manual? If it's manual, it might be your clutch.

[Halogen]

Its 5 speed manual, 102,000 km and I drive it pretty hard too, so that could be a likely cause

are there any solid indicators or tests I can do that would determine without a doubt that it is clutch ware ?

I should add, I was having MAF problems recently too (CEL 2188, 2178) and it was the ground wire issue, which I fixed yesterday, was sort of hoping it would eliminate this problem, but it didn't, just the CEL.

[Default User]

clutch slipping test - (IIRC) from a dead stop, put it into 3rd and try to accelerate. If it stays put, your clutch is slipping.
Try resetting the ECU.

Also - is this happening with the AC on?

[Halogen]

I'll reset the ECU before going to work today, and I'll do the test you suggested.

Also, I pretty much leave the A/C on permanently during the summer months, I'll shut that off too and see what happens.

Thanks for the help so far.

[Donutz]

The clutch test is usually done while rolling. From about 20 or 30 kms/hr shift to 4th gear. When the clutch is engaged hammer the throttle. If your clutch is good the car should accerlerate slowly and might bog. If it's bad your RPMs will increase and your car will not accelerate at the same rate. The RPMs either fly up quickly, or in a choppy motion.

[bluemazda3]

+1 probably the clutch..

[RECREATIONAL_ANXIETY]

If the RPM increases, while in gear, and the vehicle speed doesn't increase proportionally then you're looking at a clutch problem.

[Donutz]

You have to be in the correct gear to do the test. If you spin your tires it will exhibit similar characteristics as a slipping clutch.

[blankets3]

+1 probably the clutch..

i think so 2

[Halogen]

I don't want to believe it, but I think you are right...*cue mozzart music

excuse me for a second...( screaming with windows closed )

So, could low transmission oil cause excessive clutch ware ? Maybe the levels are low, I did switch to Amsoil last year, about 4 jugs of it were drained and its synthetic and that shit can burn off sometimes right ? I'll grab another jug maybe and top it up. I'm just curious, are there any temp solutions for resolving clutch ware issues like this ?

I think what I'll do first is see if I can get this covered under extended warranty cause I got worn out parts option, hope these mofo's are legit and cover cost, my prediction, it will probably be a battle and a long wait for anything to come through, including saving up the money to upgrade it myself.

Thoughts ??

[RECREATIONAL_ANXIETY]

Transmission fluid has absolutely nothing to do with the clutch. The clutch is dry and is between the engine and transmission. The only "wear" that low transmission fluid could cause is to the internals (gears, bearings, synchro's). As far as getting a clutch covered under warranty, good luck with that. I've never heard of that happening after the initial manufacturers "wear parts" warranty expires. Does your warranty also cover the cost of tires, brakes, windshield wipers, light bulbs, and all other wear parts? If so, let me know what this warranty program is, because I want it too. Somehow I think the person who sold the warranty was blowing smoke if they promised replacement of wear parts.
Oh, and no, tranny fluid cannot "burn off" as the transmission is completely sealed. The only way for it to get out is a leak... or removing the drain plug of course. There are no temporary fixes for a worn out clutch. You can probably get a little more life out of it if you're really easy with every shift (especially starting in first) and accelerating very slowly. Higher speeds would cause the most problems for a worn clutch, since you need to push the accelerator down much more to get any increase in speed - this is where you'd get the most slippage. Also, hills would be an issue, especially on the highway.
..... just take your car in and have it repaired ASAP, cause you're just delaying the inevitable. Plus, you may have to add a tow charge to your bill if you keep driving.

[Halogen]

Is there such thing as possibly getting an adjustment done instead of a complete replacement ? Already seems pretty ****ing costly to repair without considering labour.

[RECREATIONAL_ANXIETY]

NO !!! - Can you adjust your brakes after the pads wear out? Can you adjust your piston rings when your engine starts burning oil? Can you adjust your shocks when the seals start leaking? Can you adjust a light bulb once it burns out? There is no band-aid solution for a worn out clutch. You need to face the reality that your car needs a proper repair, unless you start taking the bus.

[Halogen]

Sigh....your right. :sad

I guess its time to start selling some of my shit... :chuckle

[bluemazda3]

lol damn.. good luck dude.. he is right

[McGuyver_3]

had this clutch in my last 3 when i replaced it
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Exedy-OEM-Clutch-Kit-Mazda-3-04-06-2L-5-2-3L-/140413900276?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20b15215f4
did the instal myself but mind you i had a hoist readily available

[Halogen]

Ok, so I this is what I was quoted from a mechanic I know.

$300 - OEM Clutch
$300 - Labour
$100 - Flywheel Machining

My questions now are; should I go OEM ? are those decent rates ?

[stevenma188]

I believe those are fairly "standard" prices. Have you thought about upgrading the clutch? Aftermarket clutches are almost the same price, and since you are doing it, might as well put in a good performance clutch in there.

[Halogen]

Time my brother, time is not on my side...If I could wait another week or 2 for the part I would, but I can't as my car is barely moving now.

[stevenma188]

Fair enough. Back when I was looking to buy a car, I was looking at a Golf 1.8T that needed a new clutch, and got quotes similar to what you got. Have you tried asking StreetPerformance for a quote? Their prices seem to be lower than anyone else.

[McGuyver_3]

Fly Wheel machining is a waste unless the rivets off of the clutch are touching the flywheel then yes you will need machining done. Difference between oem clutch and the link I posted you get the release bearing pilot bearing and pressure plate which IMO should always be replaced when doing a clutch. Talk to Peter Aka next mod he can probably get you the stuff in a few days

[gabbygenier]

Ok, so I this is what I was quoted from a mechanic I know.

$300 - OEM Clutch
$300 - Labour
$100 - Flywheel Machining

My questions now are; should I go OEM ? are those decent rates ?

thats actually not bad, i paid 1200 for a new oem clutch installed at the dealer. i had no choice since i was moving from guelph to ottawa the next day so i needed the car and they were able to put me in there to do it. if i had time i would of gotten the one mcguyver posted but noone caries it in stock local so i would of had no car for a while and had to go back to guelph to get it.

i would go aftermarket if i was you. if mine ever goes again (125 000kms on it now) im going with aftermarket.

[Halogen]

I picked up my car today with new clutch repair/replacement...I have to say, I can't believe the difference in the drive now; how much smoother the gears shift and how light and smooth the pedal works. The car just acts and feels very different, feels much stronger. The only downside I've observed so far, is when the clutch engages, she jerks noticeably. I'm already pretty good at rev matching the speed, but the times when its not perfect, you can definitely feel when it engages, which is alright with me, the car is a GT sport.

Anyways, I was told the part was OEM, but the box manufacturer and model was the Exegy clutch (http://www.streetunit.com/Exedy_Stage_1_clutch_kits_Mazda_3_04_06_p/10809.htm), so maybe it was after market after all, just built to OEM standards.


Fly Wheel machining is a waste unless the rivets off of the clutch are touching the flywheel then yes you will need machining done.

Ya, that is what held up the repair for another 5 hours, waiting for the flywheel to come back from the shop. I really don't know much about the clutch systems, but I took a look at the one they pulled and this thing was wore down past the material and the bolt rivets.

[stevenma188]

I think you basically got what McGuyver posted.

[McGuyver_3]

I picked up my car today with new clutch repair/replacement...I have to say, I can't believe the difference in my drive now; how much smoother the gears shift and how light and smooth the pedal works. The car just acts and feels very different now, and feels much stronger. The only downside I've observed so far, is whn the clutch engages, she jerks noticably, but I'm already pretty good at rev matching the speed, but teh times when its not perfect, you can difinately feel it engage, which is alright with me, the car is a GT sport.

Anyways, I was told the part was OEM, but the box manufacturer and model was the Exegy clutch (http://www.streetunit.com/Exedy_Stage_1_clutch_kits_Mazda_3_04_06_p/10809.htm), so maybe it was after market afterall, just built to OEM standards.



Ya, thats what held up the repair for another 5 hours, waiting for the flywheel to come back from shop. I really don't know much bout the clutch systems, but I took alook at the one they pulled out and this things was down past the material and the bolts were being grinded down from the looks of it. lol

If thats the actual kit that they installed then yes exedy makes oem standard parts and from the looks of the kit you got all the necesary extras which is good. Now that you mentioned the clutch was in that bad a shape then from the sounds of it yeah you needed the machining lol. I was lucky when I did mine my rivets hadnt worn down that bad yet. I just had to scuff mine up a little with sand paper and it was good to go

[lewis]

I have a mazda 3 2010 i (I believe the canadian equivalent is GS). I have about 28 000 miles on it. lately I noticed that shifting gear is not nearly as smooth as it used to be. Actually I have to press on the accelerator more while I release the clutch, which usually result in a less than normal acceleration. Moreover, while parked I find it strange that i can shift gears without stepping on the clutch. To my understanding, it is what you guys call RPM Jump, No acceleration.

If it is my clutch: how come it's worn out so early. I actually came across a lot of complains for the same model about bad clutches from the manufacturer after goggling around. I highly doubt it's my driving habit but I don't leave it out of the equation.

What are the steps to take to have it fix fast, well, and cheap in the GTA. Please recommend me a good shop with your dignity on the line?

I just bought the sickest wheels/tires (yes probably better than yours, I looked at every single pictures of rims on this forum lol) it kinda annoy me that it had to happen now of all time. Is it time to sell the car after I install the new clutch? I need reliability

Or is there a car God who's taking care of things and I shouldn't worry too much ?

Please your input is more than welcome

[Ps3alltheway]

I have a mazda 3 2010 i (I believe the canadian equivalent is GS). I have about 28 000 miles on it. lately I noticed that shifting gear is not nearly as smooth as it used to be. Actually I have to press on the accelerator more while I release the clutch, which usually result in a less than normal acceleration. Moreover, while parked I find it strange that i can shift gears without stepping on the clutch. To my understanding, it is what you guys call RPM Jump, No acceleration.

If it is my clutch: how come it's worn out so early. I actually came across a lot of complains for the same model about bad clutches from the manufacturer after goggling around. I highly doubt it's my driving habit but I don't leave it out of the equation.

What are the steps to take to have it fix fast, well, and cheap in the GTA. Please recommend me a good shop with your dignity on the line?

I just bought the sickest wheels/tires (yes probably better than yours, I looked at every single pictures of rims on this forum lol) it kinda annoy me that it had to happen now of all time. Is it time to sell the car after I install the new clutch? I need reliability

Or is there a car God who's taking care of things and I shouldn't worry too much ?

Please your input is more than welcome\

it is normal that you can put in gears while the car is parked

[cSPEED]

I have a mazda 3 2010 i (I believe the canadian equivalent is GS). I have about 28 000 miles on it. lately I noticed that shifting gear is not nearly as smooth as it used to be. Actually I have to press on the accelerator more while I release the clutch, which usually result in a less than normal acceleration. Moreover, while parked I find it strange that i can shift gears without stepping on the clutch. To my understanding, it is what you guys call RPM Jump, No acceleration.

If it is my clutch: how come it's worn out so early. I actually came across a lot of complains for the same model about bad clutches from the manufacturer after goggling around. I highly doubt it's my driving habit but I don't leave it out of the equation.

What are the steps to take to have it fix fast, well, and cheap in the GTA. Please recommend me a good shop with your dignity on the line?

I just bought the sickest wheels/tires (yes probably better than yours, I looked at every single pictures of rims on this forum lol) it kinda annoy me that it had to happen now of all time. Is it time to sell the car after I install the new clutch? I need reliability

Or is there a car God who's taking care of things and I shouldn't worry too much ?

Please your input is more than welcome

If you need to give more gas to have the clutch catch I'm pretty sure your clutch is slipping and needs to be replaced. At 28K miles (dont know why you'd put miles on a Canadian forum) seems too early, but it's more likely user error than the car IMO. There is no "cheap and quick" fix for your clutch. It'll run you ~300-500 (depending on the clutch) in parts and ~200-300 in install. There is no need to replace the car, because your clutch went - it's a maintenance thing on manual cars and you'll have to get used to it no matter what car you buy after. Fix it, learn to drive it better, and your clutches will last you more than 1/2 their life.

Again, assuming the clutch is your problem.

Putting your car into gear with no clutch while your car off can be done on any car I think. Any manual car that I've ever driven anyway.

[midnightfxgt]

To test your clutch:

Drive at a normal speed for 2nd gear. Shift into 4th and step on the gas all the way. If the car slowly picks up speed, its normal. If the RPMS jump up, and the speed isnt increasing the same way, the clutch is slipping.

These cars have great clutches IMO. I had 150K KM on mine when I replaced it. 100K normal driving and 50K KM while boosted, and it didnt even NEED to be done, I did it to be preventative.

[ferrarifan]

I believe that if the car is driven properly, the clutch should never need changing. My wife has 260000 on her car and the clutch is still fine. No slipping. Can't say the same about the body though. F'ing rust bucket.

[slam525i]

If it is my clutch: how come it's worn out so early. I actually came across a lot of complains for the same model about bad clutches from the manufacturer after goggling around. I highly doubt it's my driving habit but I don't leave it out of the equation.

I just bought the sickest wheels/tires (yes probably better than yours, I looked at every single pictures of rims on this forum lol) it kinda annoy me that it had to happen now of all time. Is it time to sell the car after I install the new clutch? I need reliability

Clutch wear is 99.99% of the time a driver issue. I have twice as many miles on mine with an original clutch, AND my GF drives it. Actually, I taught her to drive on it, which resulted in me smelling clutch smoke a few times. :bang

Always drive with your left foot on the dead pedal unless you're actually shifting. A lot of people "rest" their foot on the clutch pedal, thinking they're not actually pressing on it, but it lightens up the friction on the clutch and allows it to slip. Slip = wear.

Rev match your down shifts. Always.

In general, if you're smooth and you're not slipping the clutch too much, you're probably doing it right.