Installing My Rear Brakes Quick Question

[mido]

I got my rotors and pads today from CAPS.. Ive read the tutorial online seems very straight forward. Just need to get my self the piston depresser but other than that i think im all set. Only thing is that is confusing me is the pads. One is for the front that just sits on the caliper bracket, the other is for the back end of the caliper. It has some metal springs on it (3 springs i believe ; 2 squarish looking ones on the side and a t a long horizantal one on the bottom). Im not too sure what to do with these>? Do they need to be put onto something or does it just sit in there like the front pad? Any help would be great!:)

[Cosmo77]

I would usually post something to the effect that "if you have to ask, maybe you shouldn't be doing it"...but tonight I'm in a good mood. In this case you need a caliper piston depressor that turns and pushes the caliper in (in a clockwise direction)....this can also be performed with needle nose pliers and "non-engineering" girls hands.

Next if you have bought cheap pads that still have the springs that slide onto the caliper piston (that were updated to a different style 3 models years ago). You will have to slide the inner pad onto the caliper piston once you have depressed it with either the proper tool, or with the "dimple in your palm" creating pliers.

I sudgest some anit-seize on the parts of the pads sitting in the cages, and a good "caliper slide pin" lubricant on the pads where they contact the calipers (to prevent corrosion-and sqealing on the pads).....this same lubricant should be used on the pins. Do NOT use antiseixe on the caliper slide pins. Anti-seize actually causes the pins to "grip" the rubber over long periods and causes caliper hang.

This is also an excelent time to make sure your e-brake cables are ok. If before you replace your pads you feel as if the e-brake take 1-2" to have any resistance....you probably have a sticking cable. Replace the set OR just don't reattach the cables at the caliper.

Any questions? PM me and I will let you know

Cosmo

[mido]

I would usually post something to the effect that "if you have to ask, maybe you shouldn't be doing it"...but tonight I'm in a good mood. In this case you need a caliper piston depressor that turns and pushes the caliper in (in a clockwise direction)....this can also be performed with needle nose pliers and "non-engineering" girls hands.

Next if you have bought cheap pads that still have the springs that slide onto the caliper piston (that were updated to a different style 3 models years ago). You will have to slide the inner pad onto the caliper piston once you have depressed it with either the proper tool, or with the "dimple in your palm" creating pliers.

I sudgest some anit-seize on the parts of the pads sitting in the cages, and a good "caliper slide pin" lubricant on the pads where they contact the calipers (to prevent corrosion-and sqealing on the pads).....this same lubricant should be used on the pins. Do NOT use antiseixe on the caliper slide pins. Anti-seize actually causes the pins to "grip" the rubber over long periods and causes caliper hang.

This is also an excelent time to make sure your e-brake cables are ok. If before you replace your pads you feel as if the e-brake take 1-2" to have any resistance....you probably have a sticking cable. Replace the set OR just don't reattach the cables at the caliper.

Any questions? PM me and I will let you know

Cosmo


Nope, very clear directions! I guess ill see how to slide the inner pad into the piston when i open it up. Cant picture it in my mind of how it clips on. I guess we'll have to see tomorrow! Ill post let ya know how it went,

[Cosmo77]

Its easy...if the pad dont stick to the piston....then it ain't on right

[Dave_The_BMXER]

FYI you can rent the caliper depression tool or do what I did drill 2 holes in block of wood put the pliers in spaced out to those dimples and push.

[mido]

I just found a C clamp at work :D ..ill be doing it in about an hour or so ill post the results and a pic of the difference in brake pads:P

[Dave_The_BMXER]

C clamp will only work on the front pistons

[mido]

Well, i thought id be able to get em done within 1.5 hours since i had a meeting at 5:30.. NOPE! I opened it up, i got the caliper and pads off of one tire, the caliper bracket was impossible to get off because of the rust. So i changed the pads and left the rotors for another time. Did the other tire and could not get the piston to go down the full way with the c clamp.. ended up putting the old pads back in and basically did nothing on that side since i couldnt get it to fit in.

In the end, i just got back from Canadian tire, got some penetrating oil, along with the piston depresser tool. Ill be spraying the bolts down with the penetrating oil and ill let it sit overnight and work on it all of tomorrow.

Any tips for getting them off!? Its pretty easy job, just very time consuming when everything is seized up

[mido]

Call it an UNLUCKY DAY! i think soo.

Going to take off the lug nuts so i can get to that caliper bracket and spray the penetrating oil, using the special lug nut key, the whole nut cracks into peices.

Going to bring it into a garage first thing tomorrow morning to get them to take off all the special lugs and put on the normals:bang:bang:bang:bang

[Cosmo77]

I would usually post something to the effect that "if you have to ask, maybe you shouldn't be doing it"

I take that back....

[mido]

LOL , im not that bad with cars ! Ive removed my tires many many times... I guess it was just that weak.. The dealer probably torqued it too much probably using their air guns. I think i found something at Canadian tire that might get it off :D

How would you take it off ?

Thanks man!

[mido]

I went over to canadian tire this morning, the manager cut me a deal since i was in earlier doing alignment he took the nut off for 15 bucks. In the end, his mechanic messed up and scratched the heck outta the rim. (i was expecting that to happen). Anywho, i am going back on monday, he said either they will pay for the rim or send it out to be repaired no cost.

I got all my tools, going to attempt to change em buggers! Lets hope nothing gets messed up again.:D

[mido]

All done ! Finally got them on.. Those rotors where really rusted on there.. Tried hammering it out, kicking it and it wouldnt budge. I ended up using a jack hammer i found in the shed!

Thanks for all the help guys, really do appreciate it!


Now after changing my rear rotors and pads, should i feel a significant difference in braking or at the pedal? I feel no difference what soever. I havent done bleeding of the brake fluid and im at 72 k