someone please help.

[m3mtl]

I have a 2004 mazda 3 HB with 115 000km. I had my rear calipers replaced. Since they were replaced the dealer said a brake bleed was required. They did the bleed multiple times. The pedal feels spongy and when Im at a red light the pedal at times sinks with little resistance. The stopping feels okay but what bothers me most is the lack of firmness at a red light. I read somewhere when you bleed the brakes you are not suppose to push the pedal all the way down is that true?? Is it possible the mechanic damaged my master cylinder while bleeding my brakes????

[Thrizzl3]

did you take it to some random mechanic or one you are familiar with? sounds like you still have air pockets in your lines

[S.F.W.]

I have a 2004 mazda 3 HB with 115 000km. I had my rear calipers replaced. Since they were replaced the dealer said a brake bleed was required. They did the bleed multiple times. The pedal feels spongy and when Im at a red light the pedal at times sinks with little resistance. The stopping feels okay but what bothers me most is the lack of firmness at a red light. I read somewhere when you bleed the brakes you are not suppose to push the pedal all the way down is that true?? Is it possible the mechanic damaged my master cylinder while bleeding my brakes????

I doubt he damaged the master cylinder. It does take time for the pressure to rebuild in the brakes. I recall after changing my rotors/pads, and brake fluid it took about two weeks until the brakes felt normal again. Every day it got a little bit better as I used the brakes a bit more.

[Kevin@nextmod]

did you take it to some random mechanic or one you are familiar with? sounds like you still have air pockets in your lines

Phil is possibly right here. The mechanic probably didn't bleed it properly. When i had my Civic and STI brakes done, the grab was felt right after the car was pull out from the shop. I would definitely either go back to the shop and get the guy to do it again for you or go to another reputable shop to do it again for you.

In Ami's case, he got new pads and rotors, the rotors and pads needs braking in. What i do is (i know its unsafe) when i get new pads or rotors, I find a quieter street with less cars, drive it to approx 80km and then brake hard to 40km then let go and brake to 0 again. I usually do that 2-3 times and then start using it. Basically almost the same thing as tires. New tires always have a layer of rubber on top that is very slippery. You'll have to drive it for a week or so then the tires get more grippy.

[Zoom Zoom Boy]

The bigger question is why you needed to replace rear calipers at 115K? What was wrong with the calipers? Pads or rotors I can understand, but if you were doing regular maintenance on this car and assuming it was performed properly, no way you need to replace your calipers this early...

[Kevin@nextmod]

Well unless his pads were really worn and never bother to replace it for the longest time and the caliper seized up.

[m3mtl]

I replaced the calipers because the wirey pins that hold the caliper/pad in place broke. A little piece got stuch in both rear caliper wholes. The mazda dealer said I had to replace the calipers. Anyone know what Im talking about

[taz4432]

I replaced the calipers because the wirey pins that hold the caliper/pad in place broke. A little piece got stuch in both rear caliper wholes. The mazda dealer said I had to replace the calipers. Anyone know what Im talking about

I know exactly what you're talking about. How did that spring clip manage to break and did they even try to get it out or did they just recommend new calipers and call it a day?


I doubt he damaged the master cylinder. It does take time for the pressure to rebuild in the brakes. I recall after changing my rotors/pads, and brake fluid it took about two weeks until the brakes felt normal again. Every day it got a little bit better as I used the brakes a bit more.

If the person who did the breaks didn't keep the fluid topped up he could've gotten air in the master cylinder/booster assembly which is a bitch and a half to get rid of. Air in the lines can also cause spongy pedal feel but that's a lot easer to get rid of.

The brake pedal should never feel firmer than right after your brake fluid is changed/bled - there is no 'rebuilding pressure in the brakes'. As for pads and rotors, they should be bedded in right away for best/safest performance. Even if not bedded in properly, within a few days of normal city/highway driving they should be fairly nice and bedded (i.e. biting fully).