Random MS3 Chat Thread

[bilinz]

Hope this isn't a stupid question but whats the differnce between the following...MS3 and MZ3.

Is it...
MS3 = Mazdaspeed3
MZ3 = Mazda 3

[loki]

Hope this isn't a stupid question but whats the differnce between the following...MS3 and MZ3.

Is it...
MS3 = Mazdaspeed3
MZ3 = Mazda 3

Yes

[DLYDRVN]

Hey guys, heard back from mazda.. looks like my head is cooked. Because of the labour involved in swapping the valve train into a new head the dealer is looking potentially at sourcing a used engine. Anyone know of a local source of built used or crate engines?

If i'm in for a penny in for a pound at this point. Esp if the price is comparable/cheaper. I'm just looking to be prepared for what they come back with tomorrow so I have enough info to make an informed choice.

[Mr Wilson]

Are they covering it, or are you?

[DLYDRVN]

I am preparing for the worst case that I will be covering it or trying to go through insurance.

[fywdyl]

I am preparing for the worst case that I will be covering it or trying to go through insurance.

How are you able to go through insurance? I doubt the issue was caused by an accident.

[pwdunmore]

How are you able to go through insurance? I doubt the issue was caused by an accident.

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o580/pwdunmore/spongebob-imagination-o_zps7634d88b.gif (http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/pwdunmore/media/spongebob-imagination-o_zps7634d88b.gif.html)

[DLYDRVN]

Yea... basically ;-) Was a long shot, but wanted to see if they would cover it under my comp... No so much. At any rate, still trying to research options. I talked to Graveyard Motorsport in MI and he roughly estimated rebuilding the head, and block for up to 450hp would probably run under $6k

[pwdunmore]

Yea... basically ;-) Was a long shot, but wanted to see if they would cover it under my comp... No so much. At any rate, still trying to research options. I talked to Graveyard Motorsport in MI and he roughly estimated rebuilding the head, and block for up to 450hp would probably run under $6k

Unless you plan to go BT I wouldn't bother going with a built motor but if you have the money to spend go for it.

I would get a 2nd gen engine for reliability and cost. You will still be able to make lots of power if you plan to stay with the K04.

[DLYDRVN]

Going to stick with k04 for now, but had entertained thoughts of BT in the (distant) future. Basically I'm looking at if I'm going to have to lay out $4500 to get exactly what I have now anyway, an extra $1500 to build a better (possibly more reliable) engine seems like a reasonable idea.

[pwdunmore]

Going to stick with k04 for now, but had entertained thoughts of BT in the (distant) future. Basically I'm looking at if I'm going to have to lay out $4500 to get exactly what I have now anyway, an extra $1500 to build a better (possibly more reliable) engine seems like a reasonable idea.

Nothing risked = nothing gained

So all the power to you! Literally lol... Good luck with the car, hopefully this is the worse case scenario. Let us know when you find out more info from mazda.

[DLYDRVN]

Yea... the pain right now is the waiting! Seriously... Its looking like a week or more before I'll see my baby back at minimum... It's killing me!

[DLYDRVN]

And I am evidently the latest zoom zoom boom victim... Except with very little zoom zoom and a pretty pathetic boom.

Head is fubard, block may be compromised. Given the costs involved dealer is thinking a new gen2 engine is the most economical. Of course the engine is back ordered so it'll me two weeks likely that I'll be driving my loud and obnoxious mz2...


If anyone knows of a better solution, I'm all ears, but I'm leaning towards new, no mileage engine. $8000 later....

[Mr Wilson]

That's shitty news. Have they figured out a cause?

Aren't replacing because of mods?

[DLYDRVN]

They're positive the cause was the overheating caused by the loss of coolant. Because i suspect i had been loosing coolant slowly till right when i threw the codes on the highway its possible a lot of heating and cooling cycles may have contributed.

I'm going to get some clarification on the warranty thing. Dealer implied that Mazda canada would see a head that badly warped and just refuse it outright, esp as the coolant failure was not 'defect' related, but I'll check today when we talk to come up with a plan of action.

My family and I have a great relationship with Kieswetter in KW, so that might contribute, but to their great credit they are going out of their way to do everything they can to minimize how painful this will be. The service manager, parts manager and dealership owner are all meeting specifically to discuss and see how they can help. I know some people on the board have had less than stellar experiences there, so I feel it's worth mentioning.

[pwdunmore]

:( This sucks a big bag of dicks... so sad to hear all of this after giving you all the JBR stuff too

[SomeGuy]

They're positive the cause was the overheating caused by the loss of coolant. Because i suspect i had been loosing coolant slowly till right when i threw the codes on the highway its possible a lot of heating and cooling cycles may have contributed.

I'm going to get some clarification on the warranty thing. Dealer implied that Mazda canada would see a head that badly warped and just refuse it outright, esp as the coolant failure was not 'defect' related, but I'll check today when we talk to come up with a plan of action.

My family and I have a great relationship with Kieswetter in KW, so that might contribute, but to their great credit they are going out of their way to do everything they can to minimize how painful this will be. The service manager, parts manager and dealership owner are all meeting specifically to discuss and see how they can help. I know some people on the board have had less than stellar experiences there, so I feel it's worth mentioning.

A failed coolant hose to me would be a defect...within the 5 year powertrain warranty those should never fail. If the car did not throw any warnings at you prior to it blowing up, you didn't contribute to any outside influence, then I would think it should honestly be covered. It's not as though the engine blew as a result of anything you did to the vehicle.

[DLYDRVN]

True, but remember the coolant hose didn't fail.. It got eaten by a Grue. :-\

At any rate, it's done. Looked at a ton of options in the last couple days including a fully forged rebuild, but in the end decided the most cost effective option was to buy a new engine. There was just no way to guarantee the integrity of the existing block in the long run, and I plan on keeping this car for as long as possible. Add to that the fact that it'll have the VVT fix etc... and it just seems like the safest option.

The guys at Kieswetter just came up with far too good of a deal to turn down. They went seriously above and beyond for me on labour and the cost of the engine and parts.

Looks like I'll be in the 2 for another couple weeks, but after that I'll have my baby back, with a 0km engine in her. The upshot is, of course that if I want to look to build the engine down the road, I'm doing it on a rock solid engine whos history I will know completely.

[DLYDRVN]

:( This sucks a big bag of dicks... so sad to hear all of this after giving you all the JBR stuff too

Not to worry! It all went on ok, and it'll all go back on again ;-) Actually I might be able to get them to install the TIG for me when they reassemble ;-)

[BillyBoy]

Hey guys amd gals IM A proud new owner oI a 2013 MS3....
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Im a noob to this
Forum so bare with me.............

[pwdunmore]

Hey guys amd gals IM A proud new owner oI a 2013 MS3....
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Im a noob to this
Forum so bare with me.............

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?58425-*MSpeed*-Mod-Path-Series

Read post #1 in that thread go to the links about the "Power Path Series", it talks about safe ways to upgrade and there is also an Mazdaspeed Oil Thread.

Oil Thread:
http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?45691-MS3-Engine-Oil-Threads

[BillyBoy]

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?58425-*MSpeed*-Mod-Path-Series

Read post #1 in that thread go to the links about the "Power Path Series", it talks about safe ways to upgrade and there is also an Mazdaspeed Oil Thread.

Oil Thread:
http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?45691-MS3-Engine-Oil-Threads

Thanx!

[Fack_Dude]

Hey guys amd gals IM A proud new owner oI a 2013 MS3....
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Im a noob to this
Forum so bare with me.............

Keep it stock.

[Fack_Dude]

Hey guys amd gals IM A proud new owner oI a 2013 MS3....
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Im a noob to this
Forum so bare with me.............

Better yet go big turbo.

[BillyBoy]

Thanx guys..... I pick it up tommorow looking forward
To the meets.............

[fywdyl]

What's that metal piece that holds the rsb to the car called? Mine broke today and will need to order new ones. TIA.

P.s. Moving sucks balls.

[loki]

What's that metal piece that holds the rsb to the car called? Mine broke today and will need to order new ones. TIA.

P.s. Moving sucks balls.

Chassis

[pwdunmore]

What's that metal piece that holds the rsb to the car called? Mine broke today and will need to order new ones. TIA.

P.s. Moving sucks balls.

http://www.jamesbaroneracing.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=46_224_67&products_id=297

They are sway bar brackets/bushings

[fywdyl]

Chassis

Nah, that would only be on mikey's car.


http://www.jamesbaroneracing.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=46_224_67&products_id=297

They are sway bar brackets/bushings

Thank you very much sir. Shall I go JBR again or whiteline or something else?

[pwdunmore]

Nah, that would only be on mikey's car.



Thank you very much sir. Shall I go JBR again or whiteline or something else?

If you by/bought it from JBR he warranties the bracketes.

[loki]

Mine are rusted to shit

[Karmaspeed]

maybe a JBR group order is due???

[loki]

:loki2

[mikey32235]

am i missing something here fywdyl ?

[fywdyl]

am i missing something here fywdyl?

Nope.

Ordered the brackets and bushings and Jamie refunded the money for the brackets as part of the warranty. Gonna spray it with some rust paint before installing this time.

[dexter]

Just got my AP last Friday. Running an OTS Stage 1 - 93 Octane (no mods) map. Just ran 2 logs and in 3rd gear and throttle position is showing 75.27 for the whole log. Should it not say 99?

edit: through searching - possibly because I was a noob and left DSC on?

[Fack_Dude]

Just got my AP last Friday. Running an OTS Stage 1 - 93 Octane (no mods) map. Just ran 2 logs and in 3rd gear and throttle position is showing 75.27 for the whole log. Should it not say 99?

edit: through searching - possibly because I was a noob and left DSC on?

mat must be in the way of the gas pedal..**** 3rd gear pulls do 4th gear pulls

[loki]

No 75%

[dexter]

Been reading more on MSF (Abilor's Tuning Guide) and it would seem that throttle position at 75(ish)% is pretty normal for logs and that it's the accelerator pedal position that should be 99(ish)%. Now to find out why my AP didn't seem to log my APP... Back to reading.

[SomeGuy]

Because you didn't enable it.

I see 76% throttle position which is what the ECU uses anyway.

[dexter]

Thanks, SomeGuy. Just read about that and enabled it. I'll have to redo my logs when I get a chance and make sure to do 4th gear logs to keep Fack_Dude up there happy. :chuckle

[loki]

Your car is slow enough to do 3rd gear logs. No offence.

also why would you need to redo logs? You either had your foot to the floor or you didn't. Don't need the AP or a column in excel to tell you that

[loki]

Also alot of stuff has changed since that guide was written

its a good read but don't take it as gospel

[pwdunmore]

Just got my AP last Friday. Running an OTS Stage 1 - 93 Octane (no mods) map. Just ran 2 logs and in 3rd gear and throttle position is showing 75.27 for the whole log. Should it not say 99?

edit: through searching - possibly because I was a noob and left DSC on?

That is the throttle position, the pedal position should show as 99 and the throttle as 76 or so... you are fine.

Watch your AFR and Fuel pressure.

LTFT should be dialed in with a MAF calibration to as close to +/-5% if possible.

Knock will pop up here and there but as long as you don't get spikes on pulls your engine is most likely healthy.

[loki]

Ltft at WOT should read zero or what will show up in the table 0.16 car is in open loop


unless you're just talking about cruising around in closed loop then sure

[pwdunmore]

Ltft at WOT should read zero or what will show up in the table 0.16 car is in open loop


unless you're just talking about cruising around in closed loop then sure

Ya, closed loop cruising should be dialed in to +/-5% (ideally). Thanks for the clarification, forgot that people new to reading the data can get confused sometime lol...

[fywdyl]

Ordered a new set of bushings. Jamie took care of the warranty for the brackets.

p.s. Anyone know what size the 14mm bolts are? I'm thinking of replacing those too as they're prob rusted to sh!t too.

[SomeGuy]

M10's 1.25 I think? That sad thing is the bolts are exposed on the back side of the welded nut...so long as you get the bolt out though, the threads clean themselves up.

*edit* found a thread:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f425/jbr-rsb-bushing-clamp-broke-145229/

M10 1.25 x 30mm

[fywdyl]

M10's 1.25 I think? That sad thing is the bolts are exposed on the back side of the welded nut...so long as you get the bolt out though, the threads clean themselves up.

*edit* found a thread:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f425/jbr-rsb-bushing-clamp-broke-145229/

M10 1.25 x 30mm

Thank you good sir.

[Fobio]

Anyone know if copycat10/Steve got a new number? He Pm'd me but I can't get a hold of him....

And yeah, I'll be getting back on TM3 regularly soon...I've been away...

[dexter]

Your car is slow enough to do 3rd gear logs. No offence.

also why would you need to redo logs? You either had your foot to the floor or you didn't. Don't need the AP or a column in excel to tell you that

No offence taken. I know the potential of the car and understand that at Stage 1 with no mods it's not what most of the guys on this forum would consider fast. I was mostly just going to redo them so that I know for sure they were done properly and the pedal was at 99% the whole time.


Also alot of stuff has changed since that guide was written

its a good read but don't take it as gospel

Ok cool, thanks for the heads up. Any other recommended readings while I'm at it?


That is the throttle position, the pedal position should show as 99 and the throttle as 76 or so... you are fine.

Watch your AFR and Fuel pressure.

LTFT should be dialed in with a MAF calibration to as close to +/-5% if possible.

Knock will pop up here and there but as long as you don't get spikes on pulls your engine is most likely healthy.

Thanks Pat. Fuel pressure should be at what? 1650-1700+ at WOT? What should my AFR be reading on stock trim?

So far knock is all reading 0 which is seemingly good.

Thanks for the help guys.

[SomeGuy]

Depends on the map but AFR is around 11 at WOT, might taper a bit richer towards redline.

Fuel pressure needs to be 1600+ always, doesn't really matter so long as it always stays above that line on stock fuel pump.

[pwdunmore]

No offence taken. I know the potential of the car and understand that at Stage 1 with no mods it's not what most of the guys on this forum would consider fast. I was mostly just going to redo them so that I know for sure they were done properly and the pedal was at 99% the whole time.



Ok cool, thanks for the heads up. Any other recommended readings while I'm at it?



Thanks Pat. Fuel pressure should be at what? 1650-1700+ at WOT? What should my AFR be reading on stock trim?

So far knock is all reading 0 which is seemingly good.

Thanks for the help guys.


Depends on the map but AFR is around 11 at WOT, might taper a bit richer towards redline.

Fuel pressure needs to be 1600+ always, doesn't really matter so long as it always stays above that line on stock fuel pump.

SomeGuy is right, just watch to make sure you are close to AFR targets, you can check in ATR what it is set to and then see what you are actually hitting on pulls.

You will be off slightly (hitting 10.8 instead of 11, that is normal and can be changed so you hit targets) mainly because you aren't dialed in yet which will take some MAF calibrations with 2nd gear and some WOT calibrations to adjust the rest of the power band.

Rich spikes will lower FP, KR dumps fuel to reduce knock also reducing FP so just keep and eye out for it falling below 1600 @ WOT, if you get some internals for the HPFP I am happy to help you install them. Done 3 pumps and I got the tools already so it's became routine for me lol.

[dexter]

Depends on the map but AFR is around 11 at WOT, might taper a bit richer towards redline.

Fuel pressure needs to be 1600+ always, doesn't really matter so long as it always stays above that line on stock fuel pump.

Great, thanks for the help!


SomeGuy is right, just watch to make sure you are close to AFR targets, you can check in ATR what it is set to and then see what you are actually hitting on pulls.

You will be off slightly (hitting 10.8 instead of 11, that is normal and can be changed so you hit targets) mainly because you aren't dialed in yet which will take some MAF calibrations with 2nd gear and some WOT calibrations to adjust the rest of the power band.

Rich spikes will lower FP, KR dumps fuel to reduce knock also reducing FP so just keep and eye out for it falling below 1600 @ WOT, if you get some internals for the HPFP I am happy to help you install them. Done 3 pumps and I got the tools already so it's became routine for me lol.

Thanks for the extra insight into AFR targets - I'd love to check in ATR... Too bad they don't have it for Mac yet. I'll have to look into finding a PC to put it on. I'll keep an eye on my logs regarding AFR and FP and I'll definitely keep you in mind for the internals install when the time comes (probably not until the spring), thanks for the offer!

[mickey_g]

Use bootcamp to install windows and then you can have ATR

[fywdyl]

Man just one thing after another...

I think my clutch is slipping. I'm not sure, because I've never experienced it before, but I was rowing through the gears and the rpm would shoot right up and I'd have to switch gears pretty fast to keep from over-revving. I was from 0 to about 100 km and I was already in 4th gear. Any clutch/flywheel recommendations? OEM or aftermarket?

TIA again.

[pwdunmore]

Man just one thing after another...

I think my clutch is slipping. I'm not sure, because I've never experienced it before, but I was rowing through the gears and the rpm would shoot right up and I'd have to switch gears pretty fast to keep from over-revving. I was from 0 to about 100 km and I was already in 4th gear. Any clutch/flywheel recommendations? OEM or aftermarket?

TIA again.

My recommendation:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f10/new-southbend-clutch-stage-3-installed-152140/

He mentions a three of brands (CP-e, ACT and SBC) so you could see if any of them fit your needs, I doubt you need this stage 3 like he installed but you could get one of the lower staged ones.

I haven't heard great things about ACT drivability (I could be wrong so it would be better if someone spoke from experience) but they do put down the power, these OEM clutches aren't that bad considering they are OEM. You have a tough choice to make and I'm really interested in what you choose and your results. Sucks that it's already slipping but you are putting out numbers that would cause that lol...

[Fobio]

Depending on weather, I've had experienced what I thought was clutch slip...it happened once and I thought it was that [there's a bit of weird pride/irony/sad faced involved....you're happy you're making enough power to slip the clutch...yet it'll cost you $$ to replace...]

However, I was not able to replicate it again, and it came down to a slightly slick surface on an otherwise dry road, low evening temps and older tires.

Do the clutch slip test...

http://www.wikihow.com/Diagnose-a-Slipping-Clutch-in-Your-Car

I believe my upgraded clutch is the Spec Stg3+. After break-in, it has a nice stock-like feel and I know it can take anything I'm capable of throwing at it.

[SomeGuy]

With traction control turned on, would it blink (gen 2's have an indicator not sure about 1's) from the clutch slipping or only when the tires actually slip? If so, could be an easy way to see if it's the road or not.

[fywdyl]

My recommendation:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f10/new-southbend-clutch-stage-3-installed-152140/

He mentions a three of brands (CP-e, ACT and SBC) so you could see if any of them fit your needs, I doubt you need this stage 3 like he installed but you could get one of the lower staged ones.

I haven't heard great things about ACT drivability (I could be wrong so it would be better if someone spoke from experience) but they do put down the power, these OEM clutches aren't that bad considering they are OEM. You have a tough choice to make and I'm really interested in what you choose and your results. Sucks that it's already slipping but you are putting out numbers that would cause that lol...

Thanks Pat. I quickly read through that and it seems like SBC is well liked by those that own it. I will do further research on that and report back when I have decided.


Depending on weather, I've had experienced what I thought was clutch slip...it happened once and I thought it was that [there's a bit of weird pride/irony/sad faced involved....you're happy you're making enough power to slip the clutch...yet it'll cost you $$ to replace...]

However, I was not able to replicate it again, and it came down to a slightly slick surface on an otherwise dry road, low evening temps and older tires.

Do the clutch slip test...

http://www.wikihow.com/Diagnose-a-Slipping-Clutch-in-Your-Car

I believe my upgraded clutch is the Spec Stg3+. After break-in, it has a nice stock-like feel and I know it can take anything I'm capable of throwing at it.

It happened a few times in the past before, but that was def weather/tires related, but last night right after it happened I had burning clutch smell. In the past I thought I was just over reacting because it doesn't slip when I do a single gear pull. Last night was prob one of the first times I actually went through all the gears HARD, ha ha.

I will give the clutch test a try tomorrow. Thanks for the info and the link Vince!

p.s. - I will get back to logging as soon as I fix up the sway bar brackets. Have been super busy with moving and studying and my road in Mexico being closed.


With traction control turned on, would it blink (gen 2's have an indicator not sure about 1's) from the clutch slipping or only when the tires actually slip? If so, could be an easy way to see if it's the road or not.

Yeah, I didn't dare try again because of the burning smell, but will report back once I have done those tests.

Thanks for all your help gentlemen.

[MajesticBlueNTO]

Man just one thing after another...

I think my clutch is slipping. I'm not sure, because I've never experienced it before, but I was rowing through the gears and the rpm would shoot right up and I'd have to switch gears pretty fast to keep from over-revving. I was from 0 to about 100 km and I was already in 4th gear. Any clutch/flywheel recommendations? OEM or aftermarket?

TIA again.

Try the clutch slip test first to confirm.

Vince and I have the -->Spec Stage 3+ Self-Ratcheting (http://www.edgeautosport.com/spec-stage-3-clutch-kit-self-ratcheting-ms3-1/)<-- clutch mated to the stock Dual Mass flywheel.

Something to consider, if you go with a clutch kit that mates to the dual mass flywheel, you will need to either 1) get your stock DMF machined or 2) get a new OEM DMF ($1400). Like a brake rotor, for optimal performance, the flywheel surface should be new or machined to get the clutch material to mate properly. Seeing as the cost is so high for a new OEM one, the easiest thing is to get a shop to machine the DMF.

Which is also why kits that come with a single mass flywheel are more popular. You don't have to worry about machining or replacing the stock DMF....and, overall, they are cheaper.

Then there's the argument of keeping the DMF for driveability as the weight of it keeps the interia higher so the engine rpms don't fall as fast during shifts...there is also the fact that the DMF absorbs some of the torque, reducing shift shock to the transmission.

Ultimately, drive one with an aftermarket clutch and a SMF and also one with a DMF and decide which one is more to your liking. You can always give mine a try, just give me a heads-up as it is parked right now ;)

[fywdyl]

Try the clutch slip test first to confirm.

Vince and I have the -->Spec Stage 3+ Self-Ratcheting (http://www.edgeautosport.com/spec-stage-3-clutch-kit-self-ratcheting-ms3-1/)<-- clutch mated to the stock Dual Mass flywheel.

Something to consider, if you go with a clutch kit that mates to the dual mass flywheel, you will need to either 1) get your stock DMF machined or 2) get a new OEM DMF ($1400). Like a brake rotor, for optimal performance, the flywheel surface should be new or machined to get the clutch material to mate properly. Seeing as the cost is so high for a new OEM one, the easiest thing is to get a shop to machine the DMF.

Which is also why kits that come with a single mass flywheel are more popular. You don't have to worry about machining or replacing the stock DMF....and, overall, they are cheaper.

Then there's the argument of keeping the DMF for driveability as the weight of it keeps the interia higher so the engine rpms don't fall as fast during shifts...there is also the fact that the DMF absorbs some of the torque, reducing shift shock to the transmission.

Ultimately, drive one with an aftermarket clutch and a SMF and also one with a DMF and decide which one is more to your liking. You can always give mine a try, just give me a heads-up as it is parked right now ;)

Awesome info! So much stuff to learn in just a few short posts from you guys. You guys ROCK!

[pwdunmore]

Ya, thanks for the info guys. MajesticBlueNTO Fobio

Just reading this stuff myself gives me some information to start researching on my own about all these different types of cluthes and flywheels.

[DLYDRVN]

I'm late to the party on this, so I don't have much to add. I will say that I have an ACT clutch kit on my other car, and find the drivability just fine. Actually I found it much easier than the stock clutch. I've been impressed with the quality and performance of it as well, so I can certainly recommend ACT as a brand from my own experience.

[fywdyl]

OK, took it for a drive just now, doesn't seem like it is slipping from the slip tests:

1) Change in the clutch pedal height where the driver feels the clutch begin to engage. (this does feel a little "off", but I drive it everyday, so I may be getting used to the subtle changes)
2) Still smells
3) Has a bit of travel, so it's fine
4) Can't do this, need to take it apart
5) Did the 3rd to 2nd gear thing, rpms do go up, so no issues there
Did the parking lot test, popped it in 2nd, slowly let the clutch out and it brought the rpms down and wanted to stall, so seems fine to me

I'll have to see if I can replicate it again when the road dries up a bit.

[optiklenz13]

I can join in this chat again.. yay!!

Having said that.. I placed an order for an AP, autotech.internals, intake and TIP.. pretty stoked.. ;)

[Mr Wilson]

^^^ AP V3?

[optiklenz13]

Yes sir..

[loki]

I want V3

[Mr Wilson]

It's so pretty.

[Fack_Dude]

I want V3

You can have mine for $700.00.

[loki]

You can have mine for $700.00.

Ok

when can we meet up?

[Fack_Dude]

Ok

when can we meet up?

tonight. Bring 20's no 100s or 50s.

[Mr Wilson]

Ok

when can we meet up?

Then stop by with my shift knob ;)

[DLYDRVN]

I'm starting to get the shakes from Boost withdrawal... Should have my speed back by the end of this week if all goes well.

Anyone else had to deal with extended separation from their speed? It'll be 4 weeks on thursday...

[SomeGuy]

I get unhappy going more than a couple days...I don't think I've been away from it more than monday until friday in a week (away for work).

[optiklenz13]

I was separated with my first speed for 11 months.. lol..

I couldn't take it, picked up another. Lol.

[loki]

I'm starting to get the shakes from Boost withdrawal... Should have my speed back by the end of this week if all goes well.

Anyone else had to deal with extended separation from their speed? It'll be 4 weeks on thursday...

It's called vacation

[ETOMS3]

Yea same here when i went on Vacation to Europe... Couldnt wait for Boost again!!

[mikey32235]

yup, it will be about a month by the end of the week lol. motor build is taking longer than i thought!

[Marko_C]

Hey guy
Ive been an on and off reader here for quite sometime and ive finally decided to join, mainly because im on the verge of a new purchase. I currently own a 2006 m3 gx. I drove the hell out of it as my work used to require travel. Bought it in 2010 with 76,000 and it now has 210,000 :D. I love the car minus a few standard things that I've read about here over the years, one being rust! Not a lot but its there, Seems inevitable in the old gen mazdas.


I currently have my eye on a 2011 ms3 tech package and im going to check it out on tuesday. My main conern is rust. My buddy works at a body shop here in Ottawa that deals with mazda warranty stuff. He says the shop is full of mazdas old and new. Parts having to be replaced because of rust. I got to thinking, is this what i want to spend 20+ grand on? I also thought could this be due to poor maintenance by the casual owner? The guy ill be getting it from hasnt driven it in the winter, is the original owner and has rust proofed it with Krown.

I would appriciate if anyone could provide me with some insight on THEIR experience with rust on the new gen. Im willing to fight the fight against rust for this car, but i will drive it in the winter and if rust is something that simply cant be avoided i will have to reconsider.

Thanks a lot in advance

[captobvious75]

I have a 2010 mazdaspeed3 and I have no rust and winter drive. I'm going in for round 2 of krown this week.

Honestly, if you wash your car and take care of it, rust shouldn't be an issue. When I see rusty Mazda 3s, I look at the people in it and their own personal condition and am not surprised.

[SilentJay]

It takes 5+ hours to install remote starter on this car? :/

Someone in Markham, please come save me :p

[SomeGuy]

Lazy ****er, just go out and start the damn vehicle.

[Fack_Dude]

Lazy ****er, just go out and start the damn vehicle.

He's lazy, and you are a complainer.

[SilentJay]

Lazy ****er, just go out and start the damn vehicle.

New job has outdoor parking and I don't have the luxury of a winter beater :(

[mikey32235]

Call Chris or Ian at Noiseboys audio in aurora. they do the best work ive seen for audio and remote starters. quick, and cash deals too.
SilentJay

[breakfasteatre]

Call Chris or Ian at Noiseboys audio in aurora. they do the best work ive seen for audio and remote starters. quick, and cash deals too.
SilentJay


Mikey has like 19 years experience with this sort of thing... or was that, he is 19 years old? my memory is going!

[SilentJay]

Went and got it done at Audio Heaven before I read the message :P

Clean install, just took a really long time :)

[dexter]

Anyone ever ordered anything from JBR and not get any form of tracking for the shipment? I ordered my SRI and TIP a couple of days ago and it says that the order has shipped but I don't have tracking info or even know who it shipped with (their site says "Best Way" under shipping when you select the Canada option). I'm not too overly concerned so I haven't contacted them about it I just didn't know if anyone who's ordered from them had any insight.

[optiklenz13]

I could have ordered it with you.. save on shipping. :/

[Mr Wilson]

dexter, you on msf?

He's pretty much always on the forum, nice guy and will respond fairly quickly.

[dexter]

I could have ordered it with you.. save on shipping. :/

Ah damn, I probably should have made a thread or something to see if anyone else wanted to buy stuff. Did you order yet?


dexter, you on msf?

He's pretty much always on the forum, nice guy and will respond fairly quickly.

Ok cool, thanks. I do have an account on there I'm just not a very active poster. Maybe I'll shoot him a message and see what's up if it doesn't get here soonish.

Thanks

[pwdunmore]

Ok cool, thanks. I do have an account on there I'm just not a very active poster. Maybe I'll shoot him a message and see what's up if it doesn't get here soonish.


He normally responds super fast and my orders from him normally take slightly over a week to get from his new location, which he just moved into so he might be busy but he is really good with customer communication.


Anyone got their winters on yet? It frosted here this morning so I am contemplating putting them on this week/weekend.

[loki]

will switch to winters on the weekend

[Mr Wilson]

Thinking about doing the same.

[dexter]

He normally responds super fast and my orders from him normally take slightly over a week to get from his new location, which he just moved into so he might be busy but he is really good with customer communication.


Anyone got their winters on yet? It frosted here this morning so I am contemplating putting them on this week/weekend.

Perfect answer, thanks Pat!

On the topic of winters, we had we snow and slush up here this morning so I'll probably end up doing mine this weekend as well.

[optiklenz13]

Ah damn, I probably should have made a thread or something to see if anyone else wanted to buy stuff. Did you order yet?



Ok cool, thanks. I do have an account on there I'm just not a very active poster. Maybe I'll shoot him a message and see what's up if it doesn't get here soonish.

Thanks

Not yet, still looking for options on shipping.. I'm looking to place an order soon though.

For anyone wanting to order, let me know.

[mickey_g]

@optiklenz if you wanna wait until end of november then I will be placing an order (probably through edge)...black friday sales FTW!!!

[optiklenz13]

mickey_g sounds good with me bro.. I'm in no rush at all..

[S.F.W.]

will switch to winters on the weekend
likely do the same early next week..
probably dismount tires from wheels..think I will have the wheels re-finished this winter.

[bilinz]

The cold is hurting my fuel economy. Ive gone from an avg of 7.6-7.8 to about 8.7 this week with the change in weather. My driving habits haven't change. Pretty much mostly city with some highway here and there.

Anyone else notice this when the weather gets cold? Do any of you do anything special to prep your engine for the winter?

[Karmaspeed]

winters are on already since Monday

[Pacman]

The cold is hurting my fuel economy. Ive gone from an avg of 7.6-7.8 to about 8.7 this week with the change in weather. My driving habits haven't change. Pretty much mostly city with some highway here and there.

Anyone else notice this when the weather gets cold? Do any of you do anything special to prep your engine for the winter?

City driving In a speed? That's low. What gypsy magic is that?

[optiklenz13]

Sorcery..

[loki]

The cold is hurting my fuel economy. Ive gone from an avg of 7.6-7.8 to about 8.7 this week with the change in weather. My driving habits haven't change. Pretty much mostly city with some highway here and there.

Anyone else notice this when the weather gets cold? Do any of you do anything special to prep your engine for the winter?

This is the mazdaspeed3 section

[miako]

likely do the same early next week..
probably dismount tires from wheels..think I will have the wheels re-finished this winter.

I'll probably change to winters in 2 weeks... and remove the front lip :(

[pwdunmore]

Sorcery..

that made me lawl...

[Mr Wilson]

Car needs gas, I put more in.........that's about it.

[Thrizzl3]

Car needs gas, I put more in.........that's about it.

3 weeks with out filling up.

[SomeGuy]

Meh, I'd wait another week or two for winters...the temperature isn't supposed to drop yet.

[bilinz]

This is the mazdaspeed3 section

Well now...I feel dumb lol

[S.F.W.]

Meh, I'd wait another week or two for winters...the temperature isn't supposed to drop yet.
anything below 10 on a regular basis is cold enough for winters. Last few AM's when I leave it's been 3-5 degrees.

[rzapata]

Wow, what's going on in Toronto that you all are needing winters this early?

It was 20 degrees in the ice mountains today. Next week comes the crapload.

[Mr Wilson]

Like a light switch Riz, like a light switch.

Went from being great to shite in no time. I'll put the spring/fall wheels on and see how the weather holds out.

[pwdunmore]

Wow, what's going on in Toronto that you all are needing winters this early?

It was 20 degrees in the ice mountains today. Next week comes the crapload.

I was talking to my boss in Calgary and he said it was beautiful there the this week, not fair... :s It's starting to get cold here.

Sliding around with big fat summer tires in slush is probably my least favourite thing to do in a car I have only owned a year. Looking at the 14 day forecast and how cold it gets at night means I will probably put on winters soon but it sucks...

[rzapata]

Like a light switch Riz, like a light switch.

Went from being great to shite in no time. I'll put the spring/fall wheels on and see how the weather holds out.

Probably gonna be the same out here. This feels literally like the calm before the storm. :chuckle


I was talking to my boss in Calgary and he said it was beautiful there the this week, not fair... :s It's starting to get cold here.

Sliding around with big fat summer tires in slush is probably my least favourite thing to do in a car I have only owned a year. Looking at the 14 day forecast and how cold it gets at night means I will probably put on winters soon but it sucks...

Sliding sounds fun. :chuckle

But yeah, all this good weather is just bonus, until the mountains dump the crapload in no time. :chuckle

[DLYDRVN]

I have finally got my baby back! 6 freaking weeks....

Just in time to switch to snows.... >_<

[SomeGuy]

Hahah about time!

[Fack_Dude]

I have finally got my baby back! 6 freaking weeks....

Just in time to switch to snows.... >_<

Keep that motor stock son.

[DLYDRVN]

Where's the fun in that....

[pwdunmore]

Where's the fun in that....

If its a new motor its probably best to take it easy on it for a bit.

You probably know that already though, stay in vacuum and vary the rpms for a bit before going boost happy.

[DLYDRVN]

Yup. Keeping it city driving last few days. Went a little boost happy for about half an hour yesterday after I got my gauge installed, but otherwise trying to keep it varied and conservative.

On all stock fluids tho... Will do the change to rotella and redline mtl90 at around 1000kms.

[loki]

Organizing my furnace room...

[Thrizzl3]

Organizing my furnace room...

How much boost is the furnace running right now? -cj- wants to know

[Fack_Dude]

How much boost is the furnace running right now? -cj- wants to know

Does your car start still?

[Thrizzl3]

Does your car start still?

Ill let you know when I get6 home

[loki]

Does your car start still?

Hahha

No one has more stuff in their basement than MajesticBlueNTO

[MajesticBlueNTO]

Hahha

No one has more stuff in their basement than MajesticBlueNTO

Speaking of which, I should put up some of those parts for sale :D

[loki]

Speaking of which, I should put up some of those parts for sale :D

The hole you just crawled out of misses you

[MajesticBlueNTO]

The hole you just crawled out of misses you

/heads back to lurking..... The N54 forums

[rzapata]

Ill let you know when I get6 home

What happened to your car? Been gone a while, missed out on a lot of stuff. Ah, I miss Toronto.

Hopefully my car starts later. Been sitting pretty all week not getting enough boost nutrients... :chuckle

[Thrizzl3]

Does your car start still?

ya it started.

[Thrizzl3]

What happened to your car? Been gone a while, missed out on a lot of stuff. Ah, I miss Toronto.

Hopefully my car starts later. Been sitting pretty all week not getting enough boost nutrients... :chuckle

out of the country for 3 week. just got back tonight. started like a charm lol

[pwdunmore]

Any guys with a PNP(VCTS delete) intake manifold get a "too lean at idle" CEL or multiple other CEL's?

Just wondering if its possible to pass the new emissions with a PNPed manifold.

[Fack_Dude]

Any guys with a PNP(VCTS delete) intake manifold get a "too lean at idle" CEL or multiple other CEL's?

Just wondering if its possible to pass the new emissions with a PNPed manifold... but it doens't look like it lol.

yup, but no cels for me.

[pwdunmore]

yup, but no cels for me.

How do you not have any CEL's? (turn them off with ATR?)

I was reading about people who have done it on MSF and they get two CEL's associated with being "too lean at idle" and the VCTS not working correctly because the sensor attached to the top of the manifold doesn't sense the flappers being open or closed anymore.

If you cut off the VCTS at the 1st runner and keep the actuator + keep the other sensor on top of the manifold, does it trick the computer into thinking its still there?

[fywdyl]

How do you not have any CEL's? (turn them off with ATR?)

I was reading about people who have done it on MSF and they get a two CEL's associated with being "too lean at idle" and the VCTS not working correctly because the sensor attached to the top of the manifold doesn't sense the flappers being open or closed anymore.

If you cut off the VCTS at the 1st runner and keep the actuator + keep the other sensor on top of the manifold, does it trick the computer into thinking its still there?

I think you have to turn off one of the codes and the other one gets tricked by the method you've described above.

I used to get P0300 when I start the car cold, but if you do the accel pedal trick it prevents that from happening.

[dexter]

SRI and TIP came in from JBR :headbang

inb4: slowpoke.

[pwdunmore]

I think you have to turn off one of the codes and the other one gets tricked by the method you've described above.

I used to get P0300 when I start the car cold, but if you do the accel pedal trick it prevents that from happening.

So if I choose to PNP + VCTS I will either need another manifold to swap for emissions or I will have to hook my egr back up in time for emissions lol...

[MajesticBlueNTO]

How do you not have any CEL's? (turn them off with ATR?)

I was reading about people who have done it on MSF and they get two CEL's associated with being "too lean at idle" and the VCTS not working correctly because the sensor attached to the top of the manifold doesn't sense the flappers being open or closed anymore.

If you cut off the VCTS at the 1st runner and keep the actuator + keep the other sensor on top of the manifold, does it trick the computer into thinking its still there?

If you remove the VCTS and don't plug it in, you'll get these 2 codes, P2006 and P2009, both of which you can disable in ATR.

If you remove the blades from the VCTS arm and plug the VCTS back in, you should not get those codes.

[MajesticBlueNTO]

So if I choose to PNP + VCTS I will either need another manifold to swap for emissions or I will have to hook my egr back up in time for emissions lol...

you should be able to leave the PNP+VCTSdelete manifold in for an emissions test... the disabled codes don't affect the readiness tests.

however, the EGR is another story. If you block off and leave the EGR unplugged, the readiness test for the EGR System will show "Not Complete".

If you have PNP+VCTSdelete AND EGR blocked off, the only "Not Ready/Not Complete" readiness test is the EGR System. According to DriveClean's site, you can get a 'readiness conditional pass' (http://www.ene.gov.on.ca/environment/en/category/drive_clean/STDPROD_103062.html) in this case.

[pwdunmore]

you should be able to leave the PNP+VCTSdelete manifold in for an emissions test... the disabled codes don't affect the readiness tests.

however, the EGR is another story. If you block off and leave the EGR unplugged, the readiness test for the EGR System will show "Not Complete".

If you have PNP+VCTSdelete AND EGR blocked off, the only "Not Ready/Not Complete" readiness test is the EGR System. According to DriveClean's site, you can get a 'readiness conditional pass' (http://www.ene.gov.on.ca/environment/en/category/drive_clean/STDPROD_103062.html) in this case.

Hmmm interesting, this is something I might look more into then. Thanks for all the info, I may bug you for more :P

I think I might go the route of getting another manifold just so my car isn't out of commission while getting the PNP done.
I wanted to get exhaust manifold too but need to save up so I don't break the bank all at once... trying to even out the flow going in and out of the block because as most of us MS3 guys know our manifolds are not balanced at all.

[dexter]

Any one have any good suggestions on where to buy internals and/or anyone know of a black Friday sale or something for them?

[optiklenz13]

Edgeauto.. they might have a black Friday sale..

[SomeGuy]

Preorder the corksport ones lol

[dexter]

Edge was my first thought - looked on MSF and didn't see anything about a Black Friday sale so I thought I'd see if anyone had heard anything.

Hmm, I hadn't even considered the Corksport ones. Too bad they aren't out yet so there's no reviews yet.

[optiklenz13]

Rick is doing a group buy..

[dexter]

Just saw that as well, thanks! That may work well as I won't have to pay shipping.

Are you thinking of doing internals yet?

[mickey_g]

Black Friday sales wont be up until the 3rd week of November...still kinda early for that

[dexter]

Yeah, if there's going to be a half decent deal though it may be worth waiting for. I can drive around at Stage 0 for a bit if thats the case.

[Hannamm]

Yeah I'm kinda curious myself about what there's going to be for Black Friday deals when the time comes.i contacted Corksport about a heads up on any Black Friday deals and the guy said that this year from what he knew so far, they weren't doing anything, so we'll see. I'd like to pick a few things up for my Speed3 so I hope there will be some good deals to be had.

[pwdunmore]

Yeah I'm kinda curious myself about what there's going to be for Black Friday deals when the time comes.i contacted Corksport about a heads up on any Black Friday deals and the guy said that this year from what he knew so far, they weren't doing anything, so we'll see. I'd like to pick a few things up for my Speed3 so I hope there will be some good deals to be had.

Edge is having one so who cares...
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f539/any-preview-black-friday-sales-158692/

Corksport is a special company... I will reserve my comments.

[Hannamm]

Holy, does someone have a hate on for something lol

[Mr Wilson]

Great wheel nuts

I jest, I jest.

[dexter]

Hmmm, now to see if the deal on internals is worth driving on the Stage 0 tune until then... :rolleyes

[Hannamm]

Hey Dexter question for you bud..... Friend of mine picked a JBR TIP and he says it sounds like a duck when he steps on it, anything odd like that happen with yours lol?

[pwdunmore]

Hey Dexter question for you bud..... Friend of mine picked a JBR TIP and he says it sounds like a duck when he steps on it, anything odd like that happen with yours lol?

Not normal for it to make a duck sound... sounds like installer error or something is worn out on your friends car.

TIP upgrades only let you hear the turbo on spool up more, any other sound is something that should be addressed or at least find what the cause is to see if it could be a problem.

[fywdyl]

Remove duck from engine bay.

Off topic: was there a thread on here about http://www.scrapdriveclean.ca/?

[dexter]

Hey Dexter question for you bud..... Friend of mine picked a JBR TIP and he says it sounds like a duck when he steps on it, anything odd like that happen with yours lol?

Haha, no I wouldn't say it sounded like a duck at all.

[pwdunmore]

... edit

[loki]

Remove duck from engine bay.

Off topic: was there a thread on here about http://www.scrapdriveclean.ca/?

Don't think so

[fywdyl]

Don't think so

And posted.

[dexter]

Yes you did

Wait what? Was that directed at me? Haha

[loki]

And posted.

Cool story bro

[pwdunmore]

Wait what? Was that directed at me? Haha

I effed up, thought it was the other guy hannamm posting because I never looked at the user name. Disregard my noobness, carry on with your day :P

[dexter]

Haha fair enough. That's what I though was taking place there but was very confused for a minute.

[pwdunmore]

Driving a 2013 Mazda 3 Skyactiv as a loaner while my drivers seat is being fixed because it wobbles like a mofo...

So quiet and comfy... and no balls... zero... none... nadda! Great on gas though lmao

[greyseason]

Driving a 2013 Mazda 3 Skyactiv as a loaner while my drivers seat is being fixed because it wobbles like a mofo...

So quiet and comfy... and no balls... zero... none... nadda! Great on gas though lmao

Hey they have balls. Very very small balls

[Fobio]

So...is it the guy who bought Boostin's Gen1 True Red?

[pwdunmore]

So...is it the guy who bought Boostin's Gen1 True Red?

Might be it looks like it has all the same stuff that he had on his car

[rzapata]

Might be it looks like it has all the same stuff that he had on his car

That car was cursed from way back then was it?

[Fobio]

Seems like summers still on. Too late now but sure hope he wasn't Vd'ing.

*being vague on purpose here.

[mikey32235]

Booostin who did you sell your speed to?

[miako]

Driving a 2013 Mazda 3 Skyactiv as a loaner while my drivers seat is being fixed because it wobbles like a mofo...
So quiet and comfy... and no balls... zero... none... nadda! Great on gas though lmao

pwdunmore Hey pat your seat wobbles like a mofo too? Did you have it fixed under warranty?

[Mr Wilson]

Went for a drive, forgot to put the tools back in the car. It's like I left the safety blanket at home. Terrifying......

[boyracer]

Went for a drive, forgot to put the tools back in the car. It's like I left the safety blanket at home. Terrifying......
Mr Wilson
So, where have you been hiding? We gotta meet up

[Mr Wilson]

Busy. Gotta do something soon for sure.

[pwdunmore]

pwdunmore Hey pat your seat wobbles like a mofo too? Did you have it fixed under warranty?

Ya they ordered me a new seat bracket and it fixed it.

All the work was covered under warranty. miako

[SomeGuy]

Bah P2096 code tonight...looks like my downstream o2 sensor is on it's way out :(

[Fack_Dude]

Bah P2096 code tonight...looks like my downstream o2 sensor is on it's way out :(

Your suppose to change it every 30k

[SomeGuy]

Your suppose to change it every 30k
Fack_Dude

Really? That's first I've heard of it? 42,000km on the car and about 20-25,000km with the downpipe.

[Fack_Dude]

Fack_Dude

Really? That's first I've heard of it? 42,000km on the car and about 20-25,000km with the downpipe.

Yes. When Christian from Cobb tuned my car he advised me that both sensors have to be replaced after so many kms.

[SomeGuy]

Yes. When Christian from Cobb tuned my car he advised me that both sensors have to be replaced after so many kms.

Hmm, neat, thanks...was going to change it either way but nice to know it's normal.

What about the upstream wideband sensor? How often for that one?

[Fack_Dude]

Hmm, neat, thanks...was going to change it either way but nice to know it's normal.

What about the upstream wideband sensor? How often for that one?

What I was told that they have to be changed at the same time for optimal performance.

[mikey32235]

for the past 2 days when im idling for about a minute i get the code P2187... fuel system lean at idle. does that mean i need an 02 sensor? Fack_Dude

actually, after doing some research, i see i have found the problem when i try to start the car again after filling gas. the purge valve solenoid is causing the problem. that should fix it

[pwdunmore]

for the past 2 days when im idling for about a minute i get the code P2187... fuel system lean at idle. does that mean i need an 02 sensor? Fack_Dude

You most likely have a Boost Leak/Coupler that has come loose after the MAF. Might want to check all your intake and IC piping clamps and tighten things up. Could be your primary O2 though... nvm, you answered it yourself.

[mikey32235]

actually, after doing some research, i see i have found the problem when i try to start the car again after filling gas. the purge valve solenoid is causing the problem. that should fix it

[dexter]

I'm having some minor issue with my AP today. Still live monitors fine and claimed it was logging but upon connecting the AP to the computer I found out it didn't actually store the log (0kb's even though it showed a log was taken). Thought maybe updating would help but it just keeps "Checking for Available Firmware Download…" Any thoughts?

tl;dr

AP live monitors and connects to computer fine but won't save logs or update firmware.

[SomeGuy]

Call Cobb?

Occasionally mine will disconnect and show --/-- sort of things on the display and I get a N/A file size on a log. I think they were working on fixing that bit though with a firmware update.


And you've dealt with the entire v3 thing and having to re-request ATR right?

[dexter]

I may have to do that.

After the log mine was showing 98.9/99.9 or something on the boost monitor setting. It says theres a firmware update but it won't download.

I haven't dealt with the V3 thing as I just got ATR less than a month ago so I'll assume it's not an issue for me? Also, this is just happening through AP manager.

Thanks for the reply.

[dexter]

Looks like the issue is solved. I think the log was bad because I was monitoring boost while logging which apparently can cause glitches. Updated APM and then the AP and I was good to go. 4th gear log with the new internals shows a minimum pressure of 1721 at WOT. Usually in the high 1700's and 1800's and occasionally creeping 1900+. :headbang

[SomeGuy]

Means nothing what your peak fuel pressure is, you're targeting a specific fuel pressure in your map...so as long as you maintain adequate fuel pressure for the entire pull and don't max out injector duty cycle you're fine.

[dexter]

I was more referencing the point that my fuel pressure is consistently at safe level now where before the pressure was dropping to <1000psi on the JBR's Stage 1 tune. But I see your point.

[Thrizzl3]

going though this thread..there were some epic convos...chrome on my car..**** the memories...

[Mr Wilson]

The chrome tear drops were top notch.

Anyone ever trouble shoot an ac compressor? Mine's not seeming to engage. Tried both defrost and straight up a/c, air blowing out doesn't change, nor does the load on the engine. Also noticed that the even on manual defrost (not auto) if I change the temperature the fan speed changes on its own. Checked the fuses and switched with the horn relay. Doesn't seem to be the issue.

Hoping something just froze in the cold weather and now that it's in a heated garage all will be good.

Car hates the cold so much.

[SomeGuy]

Sounds like the clutch on it is gone or frozen? Hit with hammer? LoL that's if defrosting the entire car doesn't help.

[loki]

My car hasn't started since last sunday

[Mr Wilson]

Just hoping it'll fix itself......but know it won't. Frozen is a bit of a long shot. Went in for a car wash and was car 7 in line. Everything got nice a toasty idling for 20 minutes or so.

[Mr Wilson]

My car hasn't started since last sunday

CAA to Jimmy?

[optiklenz13]

My car has been sitting in the garage since Friday night. :P

[Thrizzl3]

my oil temp gauge doesn't work..stupid cold.

[DLYDRVN]

I lost my front lip skirt somewhere in the snow in the last couple days... there's only a little bit hanging down from the drivers side....

[SomeGuy]

Just hoping it'll fix itself......but know it won't. Frozen is a bit of a long shot. Went in for a car wash and was car 7 in line. Everything got nice a toasty idling for 20 minutes or so.

Well that's a shame, it really sounds like the clutch is not engaging (assuming the belt is still turning the pulley). Should be a couple hundred for the part from mazda. Not sure if there's anything actually serviceable in it (would have to ask someone else?). On the bright side, you should be able to still blow hot air on the windows, it just won't be dehumidified and will likely frost up the inside of your windows quicker.

[loki]

CAA to Jimmy?

May have to

[Fack_Dude]

My car has been sitting in the garage since Friday night. :P

And its still slow. :chuckle

[optiklenz13]

Faaaaccckkkk!!!!

[pwdunmore]

Checked this morning. The pulley is not rotating at all, which I'm sure is good for the belt going around it.

Cause Christmas isn't expensive enough. Hey Santa, changed my list. Bring me an ac compressor.

Just go full racecar! Delete it + add pulley + ??? = profits!!!

That really sucks though... AC compressors are not a cheap part

[SomeGuy]

Oh rough, that's even worse :(

Probably a seized bearing then.

[Mr Wilson]

^^^Was just going through the workshop manual. The outer bit on the bearing still might be turning (fingers crossed and I haven't smelled any rubber burning). It was just a quick look before work. I'll have to take a better look when I get home and have the father in law help. Hoping this is the case and I can at least drive it back home to T.O. and have Jimmy look over it.

[loki]

^^^Was just going through the workshop manual. The outer bit on the bearing still might be turning (fingers crossed and I haven't smelled any rubber burning). It was just a quick look before work. I'll have to take a better look when I get home and have the father in law help. Hoping this is the case and I can at least drive it back home to T.O. and have Jimmy look over it.

only Mr Wilson needs A/C in winter

[Mr Wilson]

Only when I was leaving the car wash yesterday. Had to drive the firt few minutes with my head out the window as the windshield wasn't defrosting. Hoping when I take a look that the plug has just fallen off and needs to be plugged back in.

[SomeGuy]

only Mr Wilson needs A/C in winter

AC compressor runs while on defrost...lol

[loki]

AC compressor runs while on defrost...lol

I don't use defrost

[dexter]

So far my only issue in the cold is the fact that my horn now sounds retarded. It's pretty quiet and sounds even pussier than it normally does.

[SomeGuy]

So far my only issue in the cold is the fact that my horn now sounds retarded. It's pretty quiet and sounds even pussier than it normally does.

Upgrade the horns!

[loki]

we can say pussier?


I have never even heard that word before. I like it.

[SomeGuy]

loki is a pussier ? hmm

[dexter]

Hahah, got love the way censorship works on here!

[loki]

loki is a pussier ? hmm

Grumpy pussier

[Thrizzl3]

loki is still grumpy?

[loki]

loki is still grumpy?

Less grumpy

[SomeGuy]

We all know loki needs pussier to be happier.

[Thrizzl3]

Less grumpy

i'm grumpy..that P2119 came again. i seriously need to clean my throttle body

[SomeGuy]

i'm grumpy..that P2119 came again. i seriously need to clean my throttle body

Takes no time to dig down there, get to it lol

[Thrizzl3]

Takes no time to dig down there, get to it lol

I'm not taking apart my FMIC piping in the cold.

[loki]

Takes no time to dig down there, get to it lol

What she said

[SomeGuy]

Well fml clutch problems, 5th and 6th gear acting up today, second time it's happened. First time was in 4th gear and the road might have been a bit slippery so I wrote it off even though it seemed weird. This time today though it was doing it relatively consistently and was able to grab a couple logs:

http://someforum.net/datalogs/datalog172.csv
http://someforum.net/datalogs/datalog174.csv

Only 42k on the car :( but still under warranty so crossing my fingers Mazda will fix it up.

[Thrizzl3]

do the clutch test....

[SomeGuy]

Explain...?

12k/12m warranty apparently, so I'm most likely out of pocket if it's really gone.

[Thrizzl3]

Put in 1st gear and put your foot on brake..let out clutch. RPM's should fall and the engine should stall out.

While driving 40km/h put it in 4th/5th (either or) and go WOT. If the RPM's jump then the clutch is on it's way out.

I had my clutch slip on me last week but i guess that's because i was givin'er good. hasn't happened since.

[Fack_Dude]

Only pussies use clutches to shift.

[SomeGuy]

Thrizzle, the two logs there are from doing wot in 5th or 6th (around 3000rpm) and watching the revs bobble around. They don't shoot way up, only about 500rpm, but I imagine it'll just get worse.

[Thrizzl3]

ahh i see it now. How often does it happen?

[SomeGuy]

ahh i see it now. How often does it happen?

Happened once a few weeks ago in town 4th gear pull up a hill passing some traffic and then again yesterday on the highway, 5th and 6th gear merging onto the 407.

I might back off on the tune slightly for the winter to help it last longer if Mazda won't do anything about it (unlikely they will but worth a try), it's only under full on WOT in the higher gears. I haven't been hard on this clutch at all and this is not my first manual mazda 3, I'm surprised it's slipping so soon. :(

[Thrizzl3]

tires cold? could have been wheel spin too

[SomeGuy]

tires cold? could have been wheel spin too

In 6th gear on a clear highway? Not a chance. I would have hoped it were wheel spin when it happened in 4th gear that first time, sorta possible. If it were wheel spin though the RPMs and Speed should have both gone up, but if the rev's go up without the associated speed then it's clutch slip. That's what the logs show, not a constant ratio between revs/speed.

[Thrizzl3]

Happens when the clutch gets too hot. that's what i noticed. once it cools it goes back to normal. Try and see if warranty will cover it though. I'll be replacing mine next year.

[Thrizzl3]

In 6th gear on a clear highway? Not a chance. I would have hoped it were wheel spin when it happened in 4th gear that first time, sorta possible. If it were wheel spin though the RPMs and Speed should have both gone up, but if the rev's go up without the associated speed then it's clutch slip. That's what the logs show, not a constant ratio between revs/speed.

could the trailer you have and the loads you pulled decreased the life of it?

[Fack_Dude]

could the trailer you have and the loads you pulled decreased the life of it?

You nailed that one on the spot.

[SomeGuy]

could the trailer you have and the loads you pulled decreased the life of it?

Given how much I did with it, I kind of doubt it, I probably have less than 100km on the trailer and maybe 20km or so with a heavy load...it's no worse than driving around with 4 people in the vehicle. You hardly notice it back there. A little extra slip getting going when fully loaded, but it's like under a second of slip needed. I've never ever smelt the clutch on this car, even when pulling the worst loads with the trailer. I had smelt the clutch on my old 3 a few times when I was still learning to drive manual.

Depending what Mazda says, I might try that grinding thing people talk about to see if it's just glazed.

*sigh* shit happens.

[Thrizzl3]

could be glazed. have you driven it this morning?

[SomeGuy]

Nah, haven't driven it since the 23rd...been stealing family vehicles lol

[loki]

How do you know if your alternator is toast?

And how difficult is it to change out and alternator?

And how much do they cost?

[loki]

I type this stranded on a street 2 blocks from my house....

[loki]

Full tank of gas which should be enough to light this car up in flames haha

[SomeGuy]

LoL loki lost an alternator?

Under a couple hundred bucks
Your battery isn't charging (car should read 14.x volts while running, if it reads 12.x volts while running then alternator isn't charging)
Loosen belt tensioner, unbolt alternator, unbolt wiring, remove alternator...reverse to install.

[Fack_Dude]

It was 400 bones for the facking alternator to be replaced.

[SomeGuy]

It was 400 bones for the facking alternator to be replaced.

How the eff?

[Thrizzl3]

It was 400 bones for the facking alternator to be replaced.

Faaaaaaacccccckkkkkkkk!