Random MS3 Chat Thread

[loki]

Nothing wrong with the JBR stuff as far as I can tell

[loki]

Depending on how hard you drive your car and in what conditions you may never push these parts to their limits

[mickey_g]

Agreed...I have a few parts from him and they have all been working perfectly

[loki]

Especially if your mods consists of a shift knob and an intake, unless you just haven't updated your signature

Although your signature includes parts not even on your car (88 duro RMM)

[loki]

On another note, how much are Bilsteins going for these days?

I've had enough of Koni

[DLYDRVN]

On another note, how much are Bilsteins going for these days?

I've had enough of Koni

Curious about this too. I think i'm gonna shift off coils and back to spring/strut setup again. Love the bilsteins on our rx8, which i think are a variant of the B6 HD stuff

[S.F.W.]

On another note, how much are Bilsteins going for these days?

I've had enough of Koni


Curious about this too. I think i'm gonna shift off coils and back to spring/strut setup again. Love the bilsteins on our rx8, which i think are a variant of the B6 HD stuff

Looks to be about $1250 CDN plus tax for the set.

[DLYDRVN]

Looks to be about $1250 CDN plus tax for the set.

And that's shocks alone right? Still need a set of springs on top of that. So another $400ish.

[shift8]

And that's shocks alone right? Still need a set of springs on top of that. So another $400ish.
So about $1900 with taxes plus install (if not doing yourself) plus alignment. So I guess about $2k... Ouch :)

[DLYDRVN]

Enh.. I'd never pay to have them installed. Suspension swaps are dead easy, and I've changed the setup on this car enough now that I can do it faster than book time ;-)

[loki]

I should have bought them when they were cheap

[shift8]

I should have bought them when they were cheap
Dollar is brutal right now. I should have bought them when I was being paid in US dollars.

[loki]

I got my konis for $575 all in so seemed like a good ide at the time

At that time the Bilsteins were just under $1100 all in

[DLYDRVN]

The dollar is killing me in so many ways. Most of my suppliers for my own shop are american and equivalent parts aren't easily available here. I just get hosed so bad.

[DLYDRVN]

Getting better now. Creeping up there

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160330/f45be522d723d6c55a3f353661fe5240.jpg

[patrickdominick]

tips and tricks for cleaning stock intercooler for the sp33ds?

degreaser then wash and dry?

[fywdyl]

Any interest in wrenching this weekend? I have 1-2 spots on my driveway.

[crasth]

Having hesitation/stuttering at low rpms(mostly 2nd gear) when the car is cold. Any ideas? Plugs are fairly new

[shift8]

Any interest in wrenching this weekend? I have 1-2 spots on my driveway.
Interest, but warm enough?

[fywdyl]

Interest, but warm enough?

Prob not, haha. -2C on Sat.

[shift8]

Need to get some new rear end links. Don't need adjustable, so looking at OEM or Moog. I like the idea of being able to grease the Moog but have recently heard of some quality issues with Moog.

Recommendations between the two, or something else I'm not seeing in research?

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[SomeGuy]

OEM for sure...the Moog are awful.

[shift8]

Thanks that's what I suspected

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[ricola]

I have Moog on my mz3 and ms3 and no complaints yet.

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[patrickdominick]

Moog comes with lifetime warranty as well but yeah I heard it's not that great quality wise anymore.

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[rzapata]

What sorts of issues were you all having with the MOOG endlinks?

I installed the endlinks about 2 years ago now and no issue or anything so far. It does look beefier than the OEM links though.

[AstralBody]

I installed Moog endlinks as well. No issues on my end. Granted it's only been since November.

I like the lifetime warranty, and the install method vs OEM. Lord knows I had a hell of a time removing my driver side endlink with the rusted nut and Allan key slot.

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[shift8]

Have my coilovers installed now and have fronts set fairly low. Already tired of scraping.

What heights do people like in the front for form and function? I plan to do some autocross, but probably no track days this year.

2008.5 gen 1.

[DLYDRVN]

I keep my coils just slightly lower than stock. If your preload is set properly then handling should be basically the same across the height range. This assumes your coils have height adjustment that is independent of spring/shock adjustment.


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[DLYDRVN]

Just a small update on the CS turbo... After a few weeks of crap weather, and swamped with work etc... we've finally gotten most of the kinks worked out of the tune and things are getting smoother and more reliable. Enjoying the learning experience and a great many thanks to SomeGuy for the hours of work in getting the tune refined.

Latest pulls are pretty consistent. 350 is in sight and we're making 20+ psi reliably on less than 20% wdgc. Crazy efficient. Car feels fast, drives very well on the hwy and in the city.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160514/35c63b1733f0cdc7f3ba9fcc84bea97b.jpg

[SomeGuy]

You know what's fun about that plot...it's at CF 1.01. On DynoJet it's 337whp/348wtq :) we're consistently up in that power range now and not even pushing things hard yet.
DLYDRVN go get a 3 bar already so we can run more boost :)

[shift8]

You know what's fun about that plot...it's at CF 1.01. On DynoJet it's 337whp/348wtq :) we're consistently up in that power range now and not even pushing things hard yet.
DLYDRVN go get a 3 bar already so we can run more boost :)
What could go wrong?!

[DLYDRVN]

What could go wrong?!

With my car? Pretty much everything. >_<

[SomeGuy]

With my car? Pretty much everything. >_<

Clutch will start slipping, synchros will be completely shot, injector seals will go...we've got work to do.

[MikeTheCheek]

Hopped on team Corksport turbo. Got it installed today running the base map from Justin at Freektune. I'll wait for the first revision to give some real impressions of the power since I'm only getting 14psi right now. Definitely feel safer driving with this thing though than my k04 with cracked compressor wheel...

[DLYDRVN]

Hopped on team Corksport turbo. Got it installed today running the base map from Justin at Freektune. I'll wait for the first revision to give some real impressions of the power since I'm only getting 14psi right now. Definitely feel safer driving with this thing though than my k04 with cracked compressor wheel...

I've been very happy thus far. It's pretty amazing what such a small housing can turn out. 25psi pretty effortlessly, and almost exactly the same spool time as the k04. Smooth power delivery as well. Very responsive.

I think you'll enjoy it. What are your power targets?

[MikeTheCheek]

I've been very happy thus far. It's pretty amazing what such a small housing can turn out. 25psi pretty effortlessly, and almost exactly the same spool time as the k04. Smooth power delivery as well. Very responsive.

I think you'll enjoy it. What are your power targets?

330-350 seems like a good number for me. Part of the reason I went with this turbo since I have no want to go past that in a fwd car. The wastegate pressure tune definitely feels smooth though right now. Sent the logs in last night so now it's just a waiting game

[DLYDRVN]

330-350 seems like a good number for me. Part of the reason I went with this turbo since I have no want to go past that in a fwd car. The wastegate pressure tune definitely feels smooth though right now. Sent the logs in last night so now it's just a waiting game

Yea running on spring pressure gave me smooth a silk curves all day long. I think this turbo shines in that 350 area. Sounds damn cool too. My modified audi/k04 had a smooth whistle to it, this thing sounds like a jet taking off when it spools!

[shift8]

Yea running on spring pressure gave me smooth a silk curves all day long. I think this turbo shines in that 350 area. Sounds damn cool too. My modified audi/k04 had a smooth whistle to it, this thing sounds like a jet taking off when it spools!
Did you sell your hybrid turbo? It was the one built by Cherry Turbos right?

Would love a long term review, especially vs CorkSport turbo.

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[DLYDRVN]

Yea. It blew up. Leaked oil like it was it's job.

Not Cherry's fault.. the rebuild kit i supplied was crap, and i was running it harder than a K04 should run. I will admit that it flowed better than stock and held a bit more up top at slightly lower bats.. but compared to the CS turbo? Couldn't even blow out the candle the CS was holding, let alone hold it's own candle.....

I was running nearly 95% WGDC to get 20-ish psi.... The CS will do 25psi at like 22%WGDC and pull all the way to redline. No question, in a similar situation, considering cost ($600CAD to rebuild including the new wheel, plus $100 for the rebuild kit i supplied) it's simply not worth it. A K04 is not worth rebuilding period. I should have gone S3 at the time or CS now. I'm quite sold on the CS at this stage. If reliability is good I think it's the S3/4 killer for the price and what it includes.

Right now, self-tuned (well SomeGuy tuned) I'm making an average of 310/330ish smoothly. And we're on fairly conservative tables. I'm not intending to build the engine right now, so I'll probably stick here or a bit more. CS has my vote.


Did you sell your hybrid turbo? It was the one built by Cherry Turbos right?

Would love a long term review, especially vs CorkSport turbo.

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[DLYDRVN]

Yea. It blew up. Leaked oil like it was it's job.

Not Cherry's fault.. the rebuild kit i supplied was crap, and i was running it harder than a K04 should run. I will admit that it flowed better than stock and held a bit more up top at slightly lower bats.. but compared to the CS turbo? Couldn't even blow out the candle the CS was holding, let alone hold it's own candle.....

I was running nearly 95% WGDC to get 20-ish psi.... The CS will do 25psi at like 22%WGDC and pull all the way to redline. No question, in a similar situation, considering cost ($600CAD to rebuild including the new wheel, plus $100 for the rebuild kit i supplied) it's simply not worth it. A K04 is not worth rebuilding period. I should have gone S3 at the time or CS now. I'm quite sold on the CS at this stage. If reliability is good I think it's the S3/4 killer for the price and what it includes.

Right now, self-tuned (well SomeGuy tuned) I'm making an average of 310/330ish smoothly. And we're on fairly conservative tables. I'm not intending to build the engine right now, so I'll probably stick here or a bit more. CS has my vote.


Did you sell your hybrid turbo? It was the one built by Cherry Turbos right?

Would love a long term review, especially vs CorkSport turbo.

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[SomeGuy]

DLYDRVN Definitely a bit more...new MAP sensor means time for more boost ;)

[shift8]

Yea. It blew up. Leaked oil like it was it's job.

Not Cherry's fault.. the rebuild kit i supplied was crap, and i was running it harder than a K04 should run. I will admit that it flowed better than stock and held a bit more up top at slightly lower bats.. but compared to the CS turbo? Couldn't even blow out the candle the CS was holding, let alone hold it's own candle.....

I was running nearly 95% WGDC to get 20-ish psi.... The CS will do 25psi at like 22%WGDC and pull all the way to redline. No question, in a similar situation, considering cost ($600CAD to rebuild including the new wheel, plus $100 for the rebuild kit i supplied) it's simply not worth it. A K04 is not worth rebuilding period. I should have gone S3 at the time or CS now. I'm quite sold on the CS at this stage. If reliability is good I think it's the S3/4 killer for the price and what it includes.

Right now, self-tuned (well SomeGuy tuned) I'm making an average of 310/330ish smoothly. And we're on fairly conservative tables. I'm not intending to build the engine right now, so I'll probably stick here or a bit more. CS has my vote.
Thanks so much for the review. This is definitely useful data.

Are you gen1 or 2? Also is your engine healthy? (Consistent readings across cylinders.)

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[DLYDRVN]

Gen1, but a gen2 engine with ~50k on it. Compression healthy across all 4. 190+. Within 5psi.


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[shift8]

Gen1, but a gen2 engine with ~50k on it. Compression healthy across all 4. 190+. Within 5psi.


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Ah nice. Seems a reasonable route. Trying to decide what to do with my gen 1. Run it as is to the ground, save for engine rebuild/replace, or keep just long enough to get something else. Have one cylinder a little low last time I checked. Dreaded cylinder three lower compression.

Anyways, thanks for the feedback!

[rzapata]

Ah damn...

Who wants some paper weight?

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160614/2682e320f04b9cb733a6297967480b05.jpg


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[SomeGuy]

A little rusty but it doesn't look broken?

[rzapata]

A little rusty but it doesn't look broken?

Oh, it's broken alright. It snapped at the weld point there. 3 piece I guess is not the best kind. I gotta find a one piece soon. Hotchkis seems to be about the same size as the JBR...

[ricola]

Oh, it's broken alright. It snapped at the weld point there. 3 piece I guess is not the best kind. I gotta find a one piece soon. Hotchkis seems to be about the same size as the JBR...
Crunchy munchies... I heard that's a weak point

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[SomeGuy]

Oh, it's broken alright. It snapped at the weld point there. 3 piece I guess is not the best kind. I gotta find a one piece soon. Hotchkis seems to be about the same size as the JBR...

Ahh ya, common failure point. I just got an email that corksport is having a 10% off sale starting tomorrow, their bar is a solid design now which wouldn't have this flaw.

[rzapata]

Crunchy munchies... I heard that's a weak point

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Yup, you'd think that they would have thought of that and made sure it's fail proof somehow. I guess not...


Ahh ya, common failure point. I just got an email that corksport is having a 10% off sale starting tomorrow, their bar is a solid design now which wouldn't have this flaw.

Hmm, these are solid pieces right? I may consider this.

[SomeGuy]

Yup, you'd think that they would have thought of that and made sure it's fail proof somehow. I guess not...



Hmm, these are solid pieces right? I may consider this.

Yeah, their current bars are solid. I had one of the old bars with the ends like yours that bent on me too but replaced it.

[DLYDRVN]

I'm running CS front and rear, i think 3 years now and zero issue or wear.

The brackets are another story.... >_<


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[rzapata]

Yeah, their current bars are solid. I had one of the old bars with the ends like yours that bent on me too but replaced it.

Hmm, being it's aluminum, it could be light. Don't know for sure. But a hollow design will have better resistance to buckling (probably not much in terms of application to our cars).

Hmm, I was set on the Hotchkis hollow one piece, but I might still read some stuff here and there.

[rzapata]

I'm running CS front and rear, i think 3 years now and zero issue or wear.

The brackets are another story.... >_<


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Do you have the billet brackets?

[DLYDRVN]

Not yet. I busted one of the zinc ones.


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[loki]

Anyone have the brackets for JBR rear sway bar?

Mine have snapped....bar is hitting the frame

Before I order the brackets and those locking rings online


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[DLYDRVN]

Is it the same dimension as the CS bar?


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[rzapata]

Anyone have the brackets for JBR rear sway bar?

Mine have snapped....bar is hitting the frame

Before I order the brackets and those locking rings online


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You can have mine but may need to wait a bit until I get the replacement RSB.


Is it the same dimension as the CS bar?


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JBR is 32mm, I believe CS is 28.5mm or something?

[loki]

rzapata what do you mean replacement sway bar?


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[rzapata]

rzapata what do you mean replacement sway bar?


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I'm trying to source out the Hotchkis RSB, who knows when that'll come in. When it does, and you still need the bracket, you can have mine.

[loki]

I'm trying to source out the Hotchkis RSB, who knows when that'll come in. When it does, and you still need the bracket, you can have mine.

Ok thanks I'll let you know

Probably won't be able to wait that long


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[rzapata]

Ok thanks I'll let you know

Probably won't be able to wait that long


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Yeah, probably at least 2 weeks to wait on these parts if anything.

But yeah, will let you know once I have a definite date.

[SomeGuy]

Amazon.ca has the Energy suspension bushings that they use...just order a set with fast shipping. They're like 30 bucks.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CNB4XW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[MS3_]

Ah damn...

Who wants some paper weight?

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160614/2682e320f04b9cb733a6297967480b05.jpg


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JBR strikes again lol, hopefully this wont happen to me, have my JBR RSB for a year now and no issues so far

[rzapata]

JBR strikes again lol, hopefully this wont happen to me, have my JBR RSB for a year now and no issues so far

I've seen a few with the same failure as mine had. I mean, it's a 3 piece welded bar so it's likely that this can happen.

Their products are not too bad in my opinion. I have all their mounts (except for the rear engine) and everything seems to work fine. Had it for more than 2 years now I think...

[rzapata]

Well looks like JBR will be sending me a replacement bar.

Sorry loki, will have to keep the hardware though. They'll only send me the bar itself...


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[loki]

Amazon.ca has the Energy suspension bushings that they use...just order a set with fast shipping. They're like 30 bucks.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CNB4XW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ordered thanks!

[MS3_]

I've seen a few with the same failure as mine had. I mean, it's a 3 piece welded bar so it's likely that this can happen.

Their products are not too bad in my opinion. I have all their mounts (except for the rear engine) and everything seems to work fine. Had it for more than 2 years now I think...

yeah, i have bunch of jbr parts and no issues. i got the mounts as well but not installed yet, hopefully soon

[ricola]

yeah, i have bunch of jbr parts and no issues. i got the mounts as well but not installed yet, hopefully soon
I'm the third owner of the jbr trilogy mount set I have installed on my speed. Aside from the finish coming off they are awesome.

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[SomeGuy]

Well that was fun...coming to a stop sign, brakes are working fine and then suddenly let go and pedal goes to the floor. Nursed it to a stop and then up to a parking lot. No leaks, fluid reservoir is full. Restart the car, pump the pedal a few times and it feels firm again and drive a few feet and it's okay. Towed up to Mazda waiting diagnosis now (wasn't risking it).

Thoughts? Master cylinder internal seals going?

[Flagrum_3]

Well that was fun...coming to a stop sign, brakes are working fine and then suddenly let go and pedal goes to the floor. Nursed it to a stop and then up to a parking lot. No leaks, fluid reservoir is full. Restart the car, pump the pedal a few times and it feels firm again and drive a few feet and it's okay. Towed up to Mazda waiting diagnosis now (wasn't risking it).

Thoughts? Master cylinder internal seals going?

Sure sounds like the Master Cylinder, if ofcourse your sure there's no leaks. Usually an outgoing MC will give you signs such as; If at a stop with brakes applied the peddle will drop slightly but still hold.

Slightly probable; It could also be an air pocket in the system, but this is usually accompanied by spongy brake feel. Have you had brake work done lately where the system could have been compromised?

_3

[SomeGuy]

Sure sounds like the Master Cylinder, if ofcourse your sure there's no leaks. Usually an outgoing MC will give you signs such as; If at a stop with brakes applied the peddle will drop slightly but still hold.

Slightly probable; It could also be an air pocket in the system, but this is usually accompanied by spongy brake feel. Have you had brake work done lately where the system could have been compromised?

_3

Brakes haven't been touched since the service I did last year on slides/pins. Only could check for leaks as best I could at the roadside, but fluid reservoir being full helps me think there's no external leaks. Brakes haven't felt spongy or weird or anything leading up to this either. They were working perfectly fine, I was braking and then it felt like a little pop and the pedal went soft and down to the floor. I figured for sure it was a brake line the way it felt when they let go.

The worst thing for me today is Mazda finding nothing wrong...I'd rather them say I need $1000 of work done. I won't trust the car ever again unless I know it's fixed.

[SomeGuy]

LoL figures, they couldn't recreate or find any issues.

I asked they check with Mazda Canada and if nothing comes of that, throw a new master cylinder on it anyway.

[Reddie1337]

Did you do a search of any bulletins? Or do you know if the dealer did it?


-Reddie

[SomeGuy]

Did you do a search of any bulletins? Or do you know if the dealer did it?


-Reddie

I didn't...not sure if the dealer did, they were supposed to look into it more.

Can you search them?

[KidRambo]

Ah damn...

Who wants some paper weight?

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160614/2682e320f04b9cb733a6297967480b05.jpg


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So this exact same thing happened to me...noticed them while trying to install my h&rs with MikeTheCheek

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[rzapata]

So this exact same thing happened to me...noticed them while trying to install my h&rs with MikeTheCheek

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Was it moving a lot and you heard clunking on bumps I guess?

Contact Jamie, they sent me a replacement. They just asked for the transaction number, where you bought it or something to verify.

You'll need to keep the hardware though.


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[KidRambo]

Was it moving a lot and you heard clunking on bumps I guess?

Contact Jamie, they sent me a replacement. They just asked for the transaction number, where you bought it or something to verify.

You'll need to keep the hardware though.


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That's exactly what was happening...I can get that from @thrizzle; I got them from him. Thanks

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[Reddie1337]

I didn't...not sure if the dealer did, they were supposed to look into it more.

Can you search them?

I'll take a look on Alldata and see if anything comes up.

Looked and didn't see anything. There are only 3 bulletins with brakes in the title.

They are:
"Brakes - Noise, Judder, Dragging Diagnosis and Service"
"Interior/Brakes - Crack On Parking Brake Lever Cover"
"Brakes - Front Brake Judder/Vibration On Application"

[SomeGuy]

I'll take a look on Alldata and see if anything comes up.

Looked and didn't see anything. There are only 3 bulletins with brakes in the title.

They are:
"Brakes - Noise, Judder, Dragging Diagnosis and Service"
"Interior/Brakes - Crack On Parking Brake Lever Cover"
"Brakes - Front Brake Judder/Vibration On Application"

Yeah, those sound typical...sticking calipers and warped rotors. Thanks for checking.

In the end I just told them to do a master cylinder anyway and a full flush/bleed. I figure there isn't much else that could have caused it and it's worth just changing it out if it helps make me feel better about the cars brakes being ok.

[shift8]

Yeah, those sound typical...sticking calipers and warped rotors. Thanks for checking.

In the end I just told them to do a master cylinder anyway and a full flush/bleed. I figure there isn't much else that could have caused it and it's worth just changing it out if it helps make me feel better about the cars brakes being ok.
Also just requiring them to go full service might cause another set of eyes to go over the whole thing. With the master cylinder out maybe some thing will be more obvious as well.

[SomeGuy]

Great, master cylinder is back ordered...so they can't do anything for most of the week.

Opened a case with Mazda Canada and the guy just said he'd call the dealer and get some information, that's all I was promised...so utterly useless.

Feeling more and more like it's time to ditch the car and buy something else...

[S.F.W.]

Great, master cylinder is back ordered...so they can't do anything for most of the week.

Opened a case with Mazda Canada and the guy just said he'd call the dealer and get some information, that's all I was promised...so utterly useless.

Feeling more and more like it's time to ditch the car and buy something else...

What do you want MCI to do for you ? Find and fix an issue they can't replicate ? Magically find you a master cylinder ?

[SomeGuy]

What do you want MCI to do for you ? Find and fix an issue they can't replicate ? Magically find you a master cylinder ?

If I were trying to figure out what failed, I'd go through the braking system in more thorough detail. Great the tech checked for leaks and did a road test and maybe hooked up a computer to check for codes or faults...how about dissect the existing master cylinder and see if it's worn or out of spec or something? Run the system through more thorough testing procedures? I doubt they put all the gauges to measure balance and pressures on it through the various components. They have engineers that are there to find out the root cause of problems.

And yes, they should magically find me a master cylinder or expedite part replacement...if it usually ships via ground, get it here via air. Am I supposed to just not have a car for weeks on end while they **** around? Sure I have the Rav4 but my fiance needs it too.

Point is Ami, I had a braking system failure...the brakes DID NOT work for several stops in a row before they came back. This was just normal street driving, at the speed limit, normal braking, and no warning they were going to fail. So should I just say "oh well" guess it was a fluke and keep driving the car? What happens if next time they fail it's on the highway and I crash into someone? Or driving down a residential road and a kid runs out in front of me and they don't work? An intermittent and/or one time issue with the braking system is one too many and has to be solved.

[S.F.W.]

If I were trying to figure out what failed, I'd go through the braking system in more thorough detail. Great the tech checked for leaks and did a road test and maybe hooked up a computer to check for codes or faults...how about dissect the existing master cylinder and see if it's worn or out of spec or something? Run the system through more thorough testing procedures? I doubt they put all the gauges to measure balance and pressures on it through the various components. They have engineers that are there to find out the root cause of problems.

And yes, they should magically find me a master cylinder or expedite part replacement...if it usually ships via ground, get it here via air. Am I supposed to just not have a car for weeks on end while they **** around? Sure I have the Rav4 but my fiance needs it too.

Point is Ami, I had a braking system failure...the brakes DID NOT work for several stops in a row before they came back. This was just normal street driving, at the speed limit, normal braking, and no warning they were going to fail. So should I just say "oh well" guess it was a fluke and keep driving the car? What happens if next time they fail it's on the highway and I crash into someone? Or driving down a residential road and a kid runs out in front of me and they don't work? An intermittent and/or one time issue with the braking system is one too many and has to be solved.

Did you push the dealer at all ? Escalate to the service manager ? I agree the braking system issue is a major concern, but you should push the dealer as hard as you push MCI.

[SomeGuy]

Did you push the dealer at all ? Escalate to the service manager ? I agree the braking system issue is a major concern, but you should push the dealer as hard as you push MCI.

Yes I have. I talked to him a couple times on Friday both when I showed up with the car after it was towed and when they didn't find anything wrong. He's not in today (at some training thing) which is why I couldn't push for the part to be expedited (the service adviser just called me to say it was backordered today but it's really out of his hands) and is back tomorrow at which point I will continue to work with the dealer. The general manager of the dealership was also out at the training, hence I couldn't even escalate further at the dealership and nobody could authorize a loaner or similar.

I really don't want to go all week without my car and it must be safe before I drive it again...hence, I really need Mazda to step up and do everything in their power to get it sorted. The MCI rep was just like k I'll make some calls and get back to you tomorrow, f*ck that...they should have said, ok let me get one of our guys out there today to look at it and make a recommendation on what to do. With the part back ordered and nobody doing much, odds are I won't have my car back until after the long weekend at the rate they're going.

[SomeGuy]

And FYI, they couldn't even make a recommendation on what to do about it at the dealer. They said we didn't find anything, not much we can do if we can't recreate the problem. I asked they take another closer look at it, they did, same results. I then asked them to change the master cylinder and do a full flush/bleed myself as it made the most sense about what could have failed (which they agreed) and I am eating that cost out of my pocket in hopes it fixes the problem (ie better than doing nothing). I'm not looking for Mazda to cover it in any way since the car is out of warranty...all I want is my car back and safe.

[Bully Dog Racing]

What do you want MCI to do for you ? Find and fix an issue they can't replicate ? Magically find you a master cylinder ?

My $0.02.

A major car manufacturer should NOT have any service parts on back order...what, don't they have an ERP to avoid this situation and a binding agreement with their suppliers to prevent this?

Not acceptable at all!! :(

[SomeGuy]

My $0.02.

A major car manufacturer should NOT have any service parts on back order...what, don't they have an ERP to avoid this situation and a binding agreement with their suppliers to prevent this?

Not acceptable at all!! :(

Back orders happen...not ideal but if they can have it in a week (what I was told), it probably means the local/regional supplier doesn't have one but nationally they do. Which means it should be able to be expedited. Beyond that, it's the we'll get back to you tomorrow answer that pisses me off with MCI. Get things moving and have a plan within the hour.

At my work when it comes to supporting customers, we'll have people responding within 15 minutes, automatic escalations if it's a serious issue, and will get the people involved that need to be involved immediately. I already did the first line on Friday (ie going to the dealer AND asking they get a master cylinder), since they didn't find anything they should have had MCI out looking at the car today (part or no part). I asked about involving MCI engineering on Friday to the dealer but didn't push it, probably should have.

[KidRambo]

Amazon.ca has the Energy suspension bushings that they use...just order a set with fast shipping. They're like 30 bucks.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CNB4XW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks. Just ordered a set. Getting my coils installed Thursday at Jimmy's. Will get him to toss these in as well

[Flagrum_3]

Back orders happen...not ideal but if they can have it in a week (what I was told), it probably means the local/regional supplier doesn't have one but nationally they do. Which means it should be able to be expedited. Beyond that, it's the we'll get back to you tomorrow answer that pisses me off with MCI. Get things moving and have a plan within the hour.

At my work when it comes to supporting customers, we'll have people responding within 15 minutes, automatic escalations if it's a serious issue, and will get the people involved that need to be involved immediately. I already did the first line on Friday (ie going to the dealer AND asking they get a master cylinder), since they didn't find anything they should have had MCI out looking at the car today (part or no part). I asked about involving MCI engineering on Friday to the dealer but didn't push it, probably should have.

Master cylinders I would think are not something that go everyday or a very uncommon occurrence, so I'm surprised there're back-ordered...

Have you considered getting one from a wrecker? You'd probably find one in a day.


_3

[SomeGuy]

Master cylinders I would think are not something that go everyday or a very uncommon occurrence, so I'm surprised there're back-ordered...

Have you considered getting one from a wrecker? You'd probably find one in a day.


_3

I'd much rather a new OEM Mazda one.

I would think the only time master cylinders are changed are from accidents in reality. These things aren't supposed to fail.

[Reddie1337]

I'd much rather a new OEM Mazda one.

I would think the only time master cylinders are changed are from accidents in reality. These things aren't supposed to fail.

Another alley you could look into is a vacuum leak. If you have a vacuum leak, that would make your pedal soft and not work properly.

Had it on an old diesel. No brakes, has a vacuum leak at the master line.


-Reddie

[SomeGuy]

Another alley you could look into is a vacuum leak. If you have a vacuum leak, that would make your pedal soft and not work properly.

Had it on an old diesel. No brakes, has a vacuum leak at the master line.


-Reddie

They've checked for that.

But wouldn't a vac leak make the pedal hard? Since you'd lose the vacuum booster which is your assist?

You know how when you retract your caliper pistons to change brake pads? Then once you start the car back up and you pump the pedal a few times to get them back in position how those first couple pumps the pedal is really soft...that's what it felt like but more drastic (pedal went further). And it happened mid braking, it wasn't right at the initial application but when I was part way through coming to a stop that the pedal let go.

[SomeGuy]

Current update is they've talked with MCI, have inspected the car again following a mazda procedure and agree it's likely the master cylinder. Once they have the part they'll tear down the master cylinder on the bench to see if they can find indications of wear/internal issues. They are hunting for the part somewhere in Canada but don't have any stock, are going to try some back stock the MCI themselves keep for their fleet and/or ask all dealers for inventory. Worst case 3-4 days for a part from Japan. Either way if they can't fix it this week they'll give me a demo vehicle until it's fixed up.

Frustrating to try to get a hold of them all morning and not get the guy (service manager) on the phone. I had my sales rep hunt him down and get him to call me after the service advisers and receptionist didn't yield results. He finally called me back just after lunch with the update.

[Bully Dog Racing]

Good news...at least it sounds like there is some progress and that Mazda Canada is showing some accountability.

[SomeGuy]

Well sorta lol part is now 3rd week of July because it's getting SHIPped. Forbes is putting an aftermarket one on if they can get it on Monday, and I'll have my car back until the OEM part arrives and they'll swap out then.

In the meantime they've got me rocking a 2015 Mazda 6 for now lol

MCI hasn't been much help at all, they keep saying it's up to the dealership to do anything about this...they helped find out that the part is more than 3 weeks out, that's about it. Such a cluster.

[Flagrum_3]

They've checked for that.

But wouldn't a vac leak make the pedal hard? Since you'd lose the vacuum booster which is your assist?

You know how when you retract your caliper pistons to change brake pads? Then once you start the car back up and you pump the pedal a few times to get them back in position how those first couple pumps the pedal is really soft...that's what it felt like but more drastic (pedal went further). And it happened mid braking, it wasn't right at the initial application but when I was part way through coming to a stop that the pedal let go.

Vacuum loss will definitely make the pedal hard; Years ago doing some maintenance on my dad's '69 Olds 455, I inadvertently knocked the brake boost hose slightly out of place, and when I took it out for a test drive, holy shit I had to stand on the brakes to get her to stop. Peddle was hard as a rock!

Your description sounds exactly like a MC failure.... It's very disconcerting when your brakes act up weird, hopefully the new MC fixes it all up, including your piece of mind.

_3

[Reddie1337]

Vacuum loss will definitely make the pedal hard; Years ago doing some maintenance on my dad's '69 Olds 455, I inadvertently knocked the brake boost hose slightly out of place, and when I took it out for a test drive, holy shit I had to stand on the brakes to get her to stop. Peddle was hard as a rock!

Your description sounds exactly like a MC failure.... It's very disconcerting when your brakes act up weird, hopefully the new MC fixes it all up, including your piece of mind.

_3

All I can tell you is the brakes on that truck went to the floor. They did not get harder. I understand why it should, but it didn't.

[Flagrum_3]

All I can tell you is the brakes on that truck went to the floor. They did not get harder. I understand why it should, but it didn't.

I didn't post in opposition of what you mentioned, just stated my experience.


_3

[pwdunmore]

I went on vacation for a week in the Maritimes, drove my car yesterday after it sitting. Got a CEL P0069... but I was still getting boost and vacuum readings.
Reset code... Came back after driving like a grandma... Reset again, drove a litter harder... Code came back.

So I changed the MAP sensor because I had a spare laying around, problem solved.

Just thought you all should hear about my fun repair stories. The End.

edit: I will post pics of said "pooched" MAP sensor, it looked pretty dirty/corroded, not sure if a little MAF cleaner may bring it back to life.

[loki]

Used about 18 litres of meth at the track on Saturday

Hopefully that gave my valves a nice shine


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[MikeTheCheek]

Used about 18 litres of meth at the track on Saturday

Hopefully that gave my valves a nice shine


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if you or anyone else needs to purchase some methanol, talk to me before going to Home Depot or wherever you're getting it from

[patrickdominick]

Hate how noisy nankang ns2r's are. SHEEEEESH

also, any ms3's running magnaflow catback 15557? i'm purchasing one next week and i'd like some opinions!

[loki]

Hate how noisy nankang ns2r's are. SHEEEEESH

also, any ms3's running magnaflow catback 15557? i'm purchasing one next week and i'd like some opinions!

They are cheap

[MS3_]

Hate how noisy nankang ns2r's are. SHEEEEESH

also, any ms3's running magnaflow catback 15557? i'm purchasing one next week and i'd like some opinions!

theyre not bad for the price, try it out at the track and see how they grip.

and about the magnaflow, i heard theyre pretty quiet lol

[patrickdominick]

theyre not bad for the price, try it out at the track and see how they grip.

and about the magnaflow, i heard theyre pretty quiet lol

im fine with a bit quiet, as long as it's not cop worthy.

Just want it to be a little louder at WOT, which i've read that is is.

im also looking at UR (ultimate racing) catback but no used ones on the market so far.

[MS3_]

im fine with a bit quiet, as long as it's not cop worthy.

Just want it to be a little louder at WOT, which i've read that is is.

im also looking at UR (ultimate racing) catback but no used ones on the market so far.

goodluck finding one and i have a UR turboback, love it

[BlueStreak]

Used about 18 litres of meth at the track on Saturday

Hopefully that gave my valves a nice shine


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Buy N54. More power than MS3 and no need for meth, Mr. White.

13114

[Elusivellama]

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?82861-Rotella-T6-on-sale-at-CT-18-9L-tub&p=1336357#post1336357

Rotella T6 on sale, $100 per 18.9L tub after MIR. Roughly $26 / 5L.

[boyracer]

Buy N54. More power than MS3 and no need for meth, Mr. White.

13114

:thumbsup So much more fun

[BlueStreak]

:thumbsup So much more fun

Awwww yyyeeaaaaahhhh

[MajesticBlueNTO]

:thumbsup So much more fun
how to have more fun...

1) Android phone with USB-OTG cable

2) MHD https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mhd.flasher.n54

3) INPA cable http://www.one-stop-electronics.com/shop/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=16 (you can also get a $20 on from eBay but the One Stop cable is guaranteed to work)

[boyracer]

how to have more fun...

1) Android phone with USB-OTG cable

2) MHD https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mhd.flasher.n54

3) INPA cable http://www.one-stop-electronics.com/shop/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=16 (you can also get a $20 on from eBay but the One Stop cable is guaranteed to work)

But I haz a iPhone.

[MajesticBlueNTO]

But I haz a iPhone.
get a cheap Android device.. doesn't have to be a phone... just has to support USB OTG

"device running Android 3.2 and up, USB OTG compatible."

I should read the updated app description [emoji2]

MHD now recommends this cable http://bimmersoftware.com/Cables

It's cheaper than a Cobb AP overall and there is active development on MHD and the unlocking of tables available for tuning.

[boyracer]

get a cheap Android device.. doesn't have to be a phone... just has to support USB OTG

"device running Android 3.2 and up, USB OTG compatible."


It's cheaper than a Cobb AP overall and there is active development on MHD and the unlocking of tables available for tuning.

Damn you Neil for putting these thoughts in my head. So the modding bug starts again. lol

[loki]

This thing automatic?


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[KidRambo]

how to have more fun...

1) Android phone with USB-OTG cable

2) MHD https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mhd.flasher.n54

3) INPA cable http://www.one-stop-electronics.com/shop/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=16 (you can also get a $20 on from eBay but the One Stop cable is guaranteed to work)
Trust me....go for a ride in Neils car and you will convert. Two days after riding in his car, I sold the speed. I got my cable on amazon for around 30 bucks and it works great.

[boyracer]

Trust me....go for a ride in Neils car and you will convert. Two days after riding in his car, I sold the speed. I got my cable on amazon for around 30 bucks and it works great.

I'm at that point in my life where I don't really want to go down that rabbit hole again. I'm happy with the 135i as is. With 2 kids, I have other priorities. That being said... You bastards are making this decision much harder. lol. Damn it! It may happen.

[MajesticBlueNTO]

I'm at that point in my life where I don't really want to go down that rabbit hole again. I'm happy with the 135i as is. With 2 kids, I have other priorities. That being said... You bastards are making this decision much harder. lol. Damn it! It may happen.

with the exception of a K&N drop in, a bolt-on FMIC, and catted downpipes, my car's all stock...factory fresh.

1) K&N drop-in with Stage 1 tune - 340-360 whp

2) K&N drop-in, FMIC with Stage 1+FMIC tune - 360-375whp

3) K&N drop-in, FMIC, downpipes with Stage 2 tune - 380-400 whp

best bang for your buck with installation cost included (e.g. free or minimal) is the drop-in filter+FMIC, especially if you get a stock c-clip FMIC.

That kind of power in the weight of a 135, there's no need to go down a rabbit hole. no need to change turbos (unless you want to chase 500+ whp); no need to get stupid with suspension; no need to touch the engine (unless you want to chase 900+ whp)

[boyracer]

with the exception of a K&N drop in, a bolt-on FMIC, and catted downpipes, my car's all stock...factory fresh.

1) K&N drop-in with Stage 1 tune - 340-360 whp

2) K&N drop-in, FMIC with Stage 1+FMIC tune - 360-375whp

3) K&N drop-in, FMIC, downpipes with Stage 2 tune - 380-400 whp

best bang for your buck with installation cost included (e.g. free or minimal) is the drop-in filter+FMIC, especially if you get a stock c-clip FMIC.

That kind of power in the weight of a 135, there's no need to go down a rabbit hole. no need to change turbos (unless you want to chase 500+ whp); no need to get stupid with suspension; no need to touch the engine (unless you want to chase 900+ whp)

SOLD!!! lol, you're quite the sales man. I'm coming to live with you when my wife throw's me out.

[loki]

He serves quail on a nightly basis

Good eats


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[loki]

I'll revisit this ongoing conversation when my wife buys her SUV


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[loki]

But I am still in love with my speed3


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[boyracer]

But I am still in love with my speed3


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I loved the speed as well. I love the 135i more. It's just a better machine.

[loki]

I love my speed more


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[loki]

Gen1 > Gen2 so I understand


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[boyracer]

Gen1 > Gen2 so I understand


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This grade school shit again!

[loki]

This grade school shit again!

It never ends


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[loki]

Tapatalk is so much shite. If it wasn't for the ability to post pics I would not open it


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[loki]

It's like vaping. If you're gonna smoke just f****ing smoke


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[boyracer]

It never ends


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That's unfortunate


Tapatalk is so much shite. If it wasn't for the ability to post pics I would not open it


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Agreed

[MajesticBlueNTO]

N54 > Gen1 > Gen2 so I understand


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fixed

[loki]

fixed

LOL


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[BlueStreak]

Simon. Come for a ride in my 135 or in Neil's 335. You'll take care of the rest yourself.

[boyracer]

Simon. Come for a ride in my 135 or in Neil's 335. You'll take care of the rest yourself.

lol, that's what I'm afraid of.

[BlueStreak]

lol, that's what I'm afraid of.

Ssshhhhh... Don't fight it....

[BlueStreak]

This thread needs to be renamed to Random BMW Chat Thread.

[MajesticBlueNTO]

with the exception of a K&N drop in, a bolt-on FMIC, and catted downpipes, my car's all stock...factory fresh.

1) K&N drop-in with Stage 1 tune - 340-360 whp

2) K&N drop-in, FMIC with Stage 1+FMIC tune - 360-375whp

3) K&N drop-in, FMIC, downpipes with Stage 2 tune - 380-400 whp

best bang for your buck with installation cost included (e.g. free or minimal) is the drop-in filter+FMIC, especially if you get a stock c-clip FMIC.


yes I'm quoting myself because after much thought, the best bang for your buck is getting the MHD bits (android device $100; cable $40; MHD flasher license ~$200?!) for a total of less than $400, changing zero (0) hard parts, and you're looking at 340-350 whp.

in a car with the 3.46 rear end...and at 3200 lbs.... it'll f-ing rip

[MajesticBlueNTO]

and that's 350+ usable whp with Right Wheel Drive

if you miss 350+ whp in an MS3, I can always sell you mine :D

[boyracer]

Ssshhhhh... Don't fight it....

This brings back nightmares of you and Jerry. I still cry at night.

[BlueStreak]

This brings back nightmares of you and Jerry. I still cry at night.

That's because you forgot to bring the Rotella.

[SomeGuy]

Good machine shops in Toronto? Friend of mine is asking for some non-speed related work.

[pwdunmore]

Good machine shops in Toronto? Friend of mine is asking for some non-speed related work.

Rainbow Engines (Markham), built my engine and it's smooth as butter.

[patrickdominick]

She might be for sale in the next week or two...

[pwdunmore]

Stocked out this weekend, will post up a for sale thread this week when I have the time.

Lots and lots of MS3 parts for anyone still looking for parts... the end of an era... :(

[shift8]

So, over the last couple of weeks I've noticed a slight "knocking" sound that typically shows up at idle, but isn't consistent. Long story short, something on the AC compressor (bearing, clutch... something) is knocking around at idle, so looks like i need a new AC compressor.

I mostly bring this up, as I'm considering doing an AC delete. Not for any particular reason other than it's going to be winter soon, and I'd like to defer this until after we move in March if possible. Unfortunately I need to do "something" before something more catastrophic happens.

I don't even know if that's a thing on the MS3. I know there is an AC delete pulley for the Miata. Probably not the same, and not sure I even really want the situation where I can't defog the front windows.

I started looking through RockAuto.com for the compressor, but there are several, and not sure which one is ideal. All seem to be in the $400 CAD range + the AC condensor (another $100 or so). Had someone start looking at prices from a shop, and they were telling me something like $900 for some units!

Here are units from RockAuto: http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mazda,2008,3,2.3l+l4+turbocharged,1442059,heat+&+air+conditioning,a/c+compressor+&+component+kit,17507

Anyone else have to deal with this and have better suggestions than RockAuto for a new compressor and condenser?

[416GXM3]

ever since I painted my rims black.. and added visors to my car.. FOR SOME F'ed up reason.. honda civics and hyudai Elantra's are constantly taunting me to race when stopped at a red light..

[416GXM3]

coz you just added 50 HP to your car and they wanna test it, you should stick a GT-R emblem as well for another 200 HP:pofl

LOL! i need that GTR emblem to scare them away from racing with me ahahahha!

[shift8]

Curious what spring rates folks are running on their coilovers, and what they like. Still daily driving, with periodic auto crossing. Mostly use it to drop off kids at daycare then working from home.

I think stock is 3.3kg/mm and I'm pretty sure what I got on these used coilovers is 12.5kg/mm which I'm finding far too rough, even at lowest damping.

Thinking maybe in the 6-8kg/mm range would be more up my alley. Thoughts?

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[Rajdeep]

hey guys can anyone tell me if 2008 mazda 6 18 rims will fit second gen speed without hitting calliper ?


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[AwAfrican]

hey guys can anyone tell me if 2008 mazda 6 18 rims will fit second gen speed without hitting calliper ?


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Considering the rim is the outside edge of your wheel, you have some big issues if it's hitting the caliper ;)

[Rajdeep]

Considering the rim is the outside edge of your wheel, you have some big issues if it's hitting the caliper ;)

i havnt put them on yet. i was looking to get them as winter wheels but im just not sure if they will fit cuz i found a set with tires for 350. mint condition https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170115/2948274965568bab7a2d9a304f936ba5.jpg


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[AwAfrican]

i havnt put them on yet. i was looking to get them as winter wheels but im just not sure if they will fit cuz i found a set with tires for 350. mint condition https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170115/2948274965568bab7a2d9a304f936ba5.jpg


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Okay to be helpful, I honestly can't confirm, but I believe they're fine

[Dave_The_BMXER]

You should be fine, I have mazda 6 17s for winter.

[Rajdeep]

You should be fine, I have mazda 6 17s for winter.

the offset is 60 on these i think. the tires touch my coils. wont go all the way in. maybe if i used spacers


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[pwdunmore]

MS3 sold, she will be missed.

Winter beater about to be purchased today hopefully.

[KidRambo]

What will you be getting? pwdunmore

I miss my ms3, and regret selling it. Although I also love the cars I have now.

[pwdunmore]

What will you be getting? pwdunmore

I miss my ms3, and regret selling it. Although I also love the cars I have now.
KidRambo It's going to be a slow turd, nothing special... lol

I'll post pics once I take it through the car wash

[shift8]

Looks like the clutch master cylinder may have gone today. Clutch to the floor, didn't always come back up.

Luckily was right around the corner or the Mazda dealership. Was test driving the Toyota Highlander. Also drove the CX-9. Both really nice.

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[SomeGuy]

Looks like the clutch master cylinder may have gone today. Clutch to the floor, didn't always come back up.

Luckily was right around the corner or the Mazda dealership. Was test driving the Toyota Highlander. Also drove the CX-9. Both really nice.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

Master? Usually the slave goes...

[shift8]

Master? Usually the slave goes...
Ah maybe I misremember what they said. This is an area I've not read much about.

Characteristic is basically clutch engages but doesn't come back up when I let go, and results in engine stall. Had to pull clutch out from back of the peddle.

No chattering, sounds, or slipping. Definitely felt like a "hydraulic" problem so we'll see.

What is the typical cost for this type of fix? Anything else I should look at doing at the same time while things are torn apart?

[SomeGuy]

Ah maybe I misremember what they said. This is an area I've not read much about.

Characteristic is basically clutch engages but doesn't come back up when I let go, and results in engine stall. Had to pull clutch out from back of the peddle.

No chattering, sounds, or slipping. Definitely felt like a "hydraulic" problem so we'll see.

What is the typical cost for this type of fix? Anything else I should look at doing at the same time while things are torn apart?

Few hundred bucks on either side...nothing really else to do while you're in there. Slave is easy to get at, front of trans...master is down under behind battery/brake stuff in that area, bit more difficult. Make sure they have new seals, don't re-use the old ones.

Will be one of the two sides, just I've never heard of a master going but the seals on the slave often blow out, especially on aftermarket clutches.

[shift8]

Few hundred bucks on either side...nothing really else to do while you're in there. Slave is easy to get at, front of trans...master is down under behind battery/brake stuff in that area, bit more difficult. Make sure they have new seals, don't re-use the old ones.

Will be one of the two sides, just I've never heard of a master going but the seals on the slave often blow out, especially on aftermarket clutches.
Thanks. All stock here but in the 181k range so we'll see. Thanks for feedback.

[pwdunmore]

Got it rustproofed late last week so I will wash it soon, but here is my little "Slow turd". A.K.A. Ford Fiesta ST

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o580/pwdunmore/114cb735-3be9-4492-9b84-1e9ba462e179_zpsmbclq6ud.jpg (http://s1148.photobucket.com/user/pwdunmore/media/114cb735-3be9-4492-9b84-1e9ba462e179_zpsmbclq6ud.jpg.html)

[DominicMS3]

Thoughts on water meth on the speed3? I'm thinking of running it this year, would appreciate any feedback or input

[S.F.W.]

Thoughts on water meth on the speed3? I'm thinking of running it this year, would appreciate any feedback or input
Stock turbo ?

[SomeGuy]

Thoughts on water meth on the speed3? I'm thinking of running it this year, would appreciate any feedback or input

Doooo it.

[shift8]

Master? Usually the slave goes...
Spot on, was the slave, and your estimate was right. $480 parts and installation. Should be getting the baby mover back today.

[pwdunmore]

Thoughts on water meth on the speed3? I'm thinking of running it this year, would appreciate any feedback or input

Do it, I ran mine for 4 out of 5 years I had my MS3. No issues other then the going zoom zoom.

I liked the fact that even when I was heat soaked in stop and go, I had full HP/TQ when it the roads got clear. The pops after going WOT are fun too.

[trance|ghost]

Who's old Speed 3 did I buy?

its from Guelph

https://scontent.fyto1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-0/p526x296/16473607_10154441033717648_2561539375642509520_n.j pg?oh=e15bacfaf67a000b7cf262c2cb23ae89&oe=59039AEB

[DominicMS3]

Stock turbo ?
yeah stock turbo, don't plan on upgrading till this one goes.

[S.F.W.]

yeah stock turbo, don't plan on upgrading till this one goes.
Some people have had ringland damage from over use of meth on stock turbo, so be a little cautious.

[shift8]

Some people have had ringland damage from over use of meth on stock turbo, so be a little cautious.
It'd be less damaging with higher compression? :)

[S.F.W.]

It'd be less damaging with higher compression? :)
Bigger turbo would not spool as often thus would not spray method as often.

It'd be less damaging with higher compression? :)

[SomeGuy]

Some people have had ringland damage from over use of meth on stock turbo, so be a little cautious.

Is it really the meth or just pushing a stock engine harder than they otherwise could without meth?

[shift8]

Bigger turbo would not spool as often thus would not spray method as often.
Ah guess that makes sense. Think someguy probably more right that of you're doing meth you're probably not feathering the peddle.

Probably less to do with turbo, but I don't know what I'm talking about :)

[trance|ghost]

Dropped in some Ford motor craft transmission fluid in my gen2 yesterday, took it for a test spin this morning

Grind seems to have gone away and shifter feels smoother !

The diff is def whirring/humming more at at high gears and lower speeds tho, might try the redline mtl next

[pwdunmore]

Some people have had ringland damage from over use of meth on stock turbo, so be a little cautious.

Some people have had ring damage without running meth so this point is not relevant.

Meth does wash the wall of the piston but so does the gasoline, having realistic power goals and the right sized meth nozzle should mitigate this.

[lazypandaa]

hi everyone, does anyone know or recommend a shop that will do walnut blasting ?

Thanks

[S.F.W.]

hi everyone, does anyone know or recommend a shop that will do walnut blasting ?

Thanks
Nor certain but worth calling quy's coating.

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[shift8]

Some people have had ring damage without running meth so this point is not relevant.

Meth does wash the wall of the piston but so does the gasoline, having realistic power goals and the right sized meth nozzle should mitigate this.
It seems reading through the forums that if you have a gen 1 MS3 with any significant kilometer value (let's say 135k+) you're in the minority if you don't have ring damage.

Almost seems like you have to factor in an engine rebuild for long term ownership.

Reading seems to suggest cyl 3 biggest culprit for rings cracking due to heat build up. What I haven't been able to find is a cause for this, and what the solution is.

Is it piston design? Intake manifold design? If so, are there modifications you can do to make the engine more reliable? I'm less interested in overall HP gains. I'd prefer a 285whp car I could mostly kick the shit out of periodically, and use as a short drive daily.

Is that even a practical request for this platform? I'd be prone to doing the rebuild to stock + whatever mods required to keep things reliable.

Or maybe I should part out and just find a different platform :) Love the sleeper look of a gen1 MS3 tho...

[loki]

I've had mine for 6 years with a big turbo pushing around 370whp for 5 years

Haven't checked compression, probably won't ever. Car pulls like a beast and drives great


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[loki]

Only real problem I've ever had is boost leaks


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[Husam_93]

Guys, I just wanted to get your opinion on which tune I should go with. Do you prefer e-tune by Freektune or dyno tune by Mspeed? any feedback is appreciated! :)

[S.F.W.]

Guys, I just wanted to get your opinion on which tune I should go with. Do you prefer e-tune by Freektune or dyno tune by Mspeed? any feedback is appreciated! :)
Mspeed dyno. Why risk trying 4th gear pulls on public roads?

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[Husam_93]

Mspeed dyno. Why risk trying 4th gear pulls on public roads?

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My main concern is the tuning process and the time it takes. I'm hoping a dyno tune would give me the same results if not better


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[loki]

Dyno tune is consistent tuning.

Do pull, make adjustments...repeat until tune is complete

Street tune. Take some logs...send them in...wait for tune to come back...take more logs to see how the tune does..send in results..wait...get tune back..take more logs

All that relies on your availability to go out and log. Each time the conditions outside are changing. Each time you're logging you're at risk of being charged with stunt driving


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[Husam_93]

Dyno tune is consistent tuning.

Do pull, make adjustments...repeat until tune is complete

Street tune. Take some logs...send them in...wait for tune to come back...take more logs to see how the tune does..send in results..wait...get tune back..take more logs

All that relies on your availability to go out and log. Each time the conditions outside are changing. Each time you're logging you're at risk of being charged with stunt driving


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Thank you, this was really useful info!. This is why i prefer doing it locally vs doing an etune. What's the best way to contact Mspeed?

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[S.F.W.]

Thank you, this was really useful info!. This is why i prefer doing it locally vs doing an etune. What's the best way to contact Mspeed?

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Pm fobio

[Husam_93]

Pm fobio

Thank you!

[fywdyl]

Just got back from my 3 month Asia trip and I have to renew my plate stickers. Need to do an e-test and got 2 "Not Ready": O2 sensor and EVAP. Tried to do the whole drive cycle thing last night and this morn, and still showing "Not Ready". Perhaps the weather is not cooperating. Any other ideas/suggestions I should try?

P.S. It is almost impossible to find a stretch of road to drive at 65-79 km/h on for 5 min straight, even around where I live.

[MajesticBlueNTO]

Just got back from my 3 month Asia trip and I have to renew my plate stickers. Need to do an e-test and got 2 "Not Ready": O2 sensor and EVAP. Tried to do the whole drive cycle thing last night and this morn, and still showing "Not Ready". Perhaps the weather is not cooperating. Any other ideas/suggestions I should try?

P.S. It is almost impossible to find a stretch of road to drive at 65-79 km/h on for 5 min straight, even around where I live.



404 up to Keswick at night?

Do the drive cycle for the O2 sensor, that appears to be the only one that is not weather dependent (the EVAP one is)... or just drive it around for a couple more days.

If the O2 sensor is still Not Ready, it may need changing.

When was the last time the ECU was reset/codes were cleared? (battery discharge; map flash; etc). If it's been a while, the Readiness tests should have already been completed and the Not Ready may not change.

13338

[fywdyl]

404 up to Keswick at night?

Do the drive cycle for the O2 sensor, that appears to be the only one that is not weather dependent (the EVAP one is)... or just drive it around for a couple more days.

If the O2 sensor is still Not Ready, it may need changing.

When was the last time the ECU was reset/codes were cleared? (battery discharge; map flash; etc). If it's been a while, the Readiness tests should have already been completed and the Not Ready may not change.

13338

Thanks MBNTO. I'll try the O2 sensor drive cycle again.

I had to change my batt back in Nov, then I went away on a trip for a while and the car sat for a bit.

Any idea how much it costs/amt of work to change the O2 sensor?

[shift8]

Thanks MBNTO. I'll try the O2 sensor drive cycle again.

I had to change my batt back in Nov, then I went away on a trip for a while and the car sat for a bit.

Any idea how much it costs/amt of work to change the O2 sensor?
Super easy. Did mine in an hour. Two main issues:

* Lots of PB Blaster ahead of time on the sensor. Pull it off with a wrench and deep socket. I bought the O2 sensor socket from crappy tire.

* the clip for the wire is under the car and in a super PITA spot. If you have large hands gonna be even more of a pain.

Got my O2 replacement from Rock Auto. Came quickly, and been working well over two years.



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[SomeGuy]

Super easy. Did mine in an hour. Two main issues:

* Lots of PB Blaster ahead of time on the sensor. Pull it off with a wrench and deep socket. I bought the O2 sensor socket from crappy tire.

* the clip for the wire is under the car and in a super PITA spot. If you have large hands gonna be even more of a pain.

Got my O2 replacement from Rock Auto. Came quickly, and been working well over two years.



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Yup, rock auto replacements do the job...one of them is the OEM sensor IIRC. The sensors from the dealer aren't cheap, $250ish if I remember right.

There are two o2 sensors, a primary that you can get up in the engine bay on the top of the downpipe and a secondary down past the cat. Usually the secondary goes first but check codes before changing. Usually you'll get a CEL if the o2 won't go away. Penetrating fluid can help but a torch and some heat are more effective. At very least do it while the car is hot with some good heat resistant gloves on (ie leather, mechanix gloves melt). You could also try cleaning the sensor by soaking it in some gasoline and get away without changing it for a while.

[shift8]

Yup, rock auto replacements do the job...one of them is the OEM sensor IIRC. The sensors from the dealer aren't cheap, $250ish if I remember right.

There are two o2 sensors, a primary that you can get up in the engine bay on the top of the downpipe and a secondary down past the cat. Usually the secondary goes first but check codes before changing. Usually you'll get a CEL if the o2 won't go away. Penetrating fluid can help but a torch and some heat are more effective. At very least do it while the car is hot with some good heat resistant gloves on (ie leather, mechanix gloves melt). You could also try cleaning the sensor by soaking it in some gasoline and get away without changing it for a while.
In my case it was the primary on top. P0038 or something I think.

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[fywdyl]

Thanks for the replies. No codes that I know of, I'll try the drive cycle again tonight and go from there.

[shift8]

Thanks for the replies. No codes that I know of, I'll try the drive cycle again tonight and go from there.
Anything pending? Get a cheap ODBII dongle and install Torque (or other ODB readers). Totally worth it.

[fywdyl]

Anything pending? Get a cheap ODBII dongle and install Torque (or other ODB readers). Totally worth it.

Already got me self an OBD2 scanner. No dice, o2 sensor may be pooched.

I did flash a map, but I left the stock cel codes checked off, could that be it? Just wanted to make sure before ordering the parts.

[shift8]

Already got me self an OBD2 scanner. No dice, o2 sensor may be pooched.

I did flash a map, but I left the stock cel codes checked off, could that be it? Just wanted to make sure before ordering the parts.
Just go for a drive and it'll come back. When I was debugging mine I could clear the CEL and it'd come back within 30km.

Edit: also the car was kinda bogging down and just generally not running right.

[fywdyl]

Just go for a drive and it'll come back. When I was debugging mine I could clear the CEL and it'd come back within 30km.

Edit: also the car was kinda bogging down and just generally not running right.

Sorry, that's not what I meant. I don't have any CELs right now, but in ATR these codes are unchecked by default:

P0030, P0420, P0456, P0607, P260F, U0101

My question is, would any of those impact the readiness monitors for O2 or EVAP?

[loki]

I had no issues


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[Como]

My Mazda 3 was able to pass emissions with the evap system not ready. Was ok providing I wasn't selling the car. Evap is temperature based. When it's colder out your evap recirc system isn't normally being used.

[fywdyl]

My Mazda 3 was able to pass emissions with the evap system not ready. Was ok providing I wasn't selling the car. Evap is temperature based. When it's colder out your evap recirc system isn't normally being used.

1 not ready is OK, 2 not ready is a fail.

[Mr Wilson]

Mines getting the test on Saturday.

We'll see how it goes with no butterflies in the intake and the EGR blocked off.

[SomeGuy]

Mines getting the test on Saturday.

We'll see how it goes with no butterflies in the intake and the EGR blocked off.

Oh you're screwed lol

[Mr Wilson]

Hahaha just don't care at this point. Give me a conditional and I'll deal with it later in the year.

[shift8]

Hahaha just don't care at this point. Give me a conditional and I'll deal with it later in the year.
EGR block off can pass. Have mine disabled via tune (CEL delete :)). No idea about butterfly valve.

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[fywdyl]

Hahaha just don't care at this point. Give me a conditional and I'll deal with it later in the year.

I like your thinking.

[MajesticBlueNTO]

Mines getting the test on Saturday.

We'll see how it goes with no butterflies in the intake and the EGR blocked off.
you'll pass, just make sure the code for no butterflies is blocked from causing a CEL....same with the EGR.

you will get an EGR Not Ready but are fine if that's the only Not Ready

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[ricola]

you'll pass, just make sure the code for no butterflies is blocked from causing a CEL....same with the EGR.

you will get an EGR Not Ready but are fine if that's the only Not Ready

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This is good to know. I'll be in the same boat

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[loki]

This is good to know. I'll be in the same boat

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Boats don't get etested


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[shift8]

Boats don't get etested


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They just cost a lot more in gas than the MS3 :)

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[loki]

Anyone have a brand new downpipe gasket lying around before I go buy one from the dealership?

I've had a CeL for like 1yr now with running rich at idle


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[Mr Wilson]

you'll pass, just make sure the code for no butterflies is blocked from causing a CEL....same with the EGR.

you will get an EGR Not Ready but are fine if that's the only Not Ready

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Giggity

[loki]

Some kids in a GTi just tried to get me to race them in the city

It's winter, winter tires and it's raining buckets

What's wrong with these people?


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[Mr Wilson]

VAG owners

[Bully Dog Racing]

Anyone have a brand new downpipe gasket lying around before I go buy one from the dealership?

I've had a CeL for like 1yr now with running rich at idle


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I'm guessing P0172?

[fywdyl]

Jimmy's got the touch. He got my car to pass :headbang

[boyracer]

I'm so glad I don't have to worry about this shit any more. lol

[loki]

I'm so glad I don't have to worry about this shit any more. lol

And changing gears yourself.


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[loki]

boyracer


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[Mr Wilson]

MajesticBlue was correct. Passed the etest zero issues.

[loki]

I doubted MajesticBlueNTO once...

Then he created a machine, took me back into time, and convinced me otherwise...


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[shift8]

Has anyone had coilovers rebuilt? Pulling mine off this weekend (fronts done yesterday) because one of the fronts damping adjustment never tightens (probably failed seal or something) and one rear has a seized damper adjustment.

I'm located beside Brampton, so found DropTec on a few forums.

Other suggestions or things I should ask about when having rebuilt?

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[Mazdy]

Has anyone had coilovers rebuilt? Pulling mine off this weekend (fronts done yesterday) because one of the fronts damping adjustment never tightens (probably failed seal or something) and one rear has a seized damper adjustment.

I'm located beside Brampton, so found DropTec on a few forums.

Other suggestions or things I should ask about when having rebuilt?

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what kind of coils? if it's BC..i have a brand new strut assembly..so no need to rebuild

[shift8]

what kind of coils? if it's BC..i have a brand new strut assembly..so no need to rebuild
Corksport

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[trance|ghost]

finally get my car etuned!!! also who else is from kitchener waterloo? i'm seeing so many speed 3s espiecally in white

[Bully Dog Racing]

finally get my car etuned!!! also who else is from kitchener waterloo? i'm seeing so many speed 3s espiecally in white

Ima CWP gen2 MS3 in Waterloo.

[Reddie1337]

finally get my car etuned!!! also who else is from kitchener waterloo? i'm seeing so many speed 3s espiecally in white

I work in Cambridge, live in Oakville. I drive a 2012 white Speed.


-Reddie

[trance|ghost]

so there is some of us! I spotted a grey genpu in waterloo today, lowered with purple wheels...

finally someone waved too! lol... I rarely ever get a nod or wave from other speed3s, something I'm so use to in the Miata, or my old wrx...

[Como]

I'm in Guelph but I drive Speed 6. Red

It's like a white Ms3. But bigger n fatter. And redder

Don't have my Tm3 plate covers on my 6

[J_Logik]

Hey Gents (and any random lady Speed drivers),

Back from the land of the lost and a long tuning hiatus. I read back a few pages and have seen a few of the OG's have moved on to new platforms and the like, but some of the faithful still remain and many a new face are here.

Looking to finish some overdue upgrades, do some maintenance and re-tune so hoping a few of you can PM me and we'll go from there. Looking at Mr Wilson, Fobio, loki, MajesticBlueNTO and boyracer.

Hope to hear from you guys.

Take care,

J

[Thrizzl3]

Hey Gents (and any random lady Speed drivers),

Back from the land of the lost and a long tuning hiatus. I read back a few pages and have seen a few of the OG's have moved on to new platforms and the like, but some of the faithful still remain and many a new face are here.

Looking to finish some overdue upgrades, do some maintenance and re-tune so hoping a few of you can PM me and we'll go from there. Looking at @Mr Wilson (http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/member.php?u=10406), @Fobio (http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/member.php?u=5431), @loki (http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/member.php?u=14386), @MajesticBlueNTO (http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/member.php?u=3785) and @boyracer (http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/member.php?u=6069).

Hope to hear from you guys.

Take care,

J

He lives!!!!

[J_Logik]

Lol Thrizzl3!! Yeah I had to check sometimes myself. Glad to see your still around as well my man. Where is everyone....MSF?

[boyracer]

Lol Thrizzl3!! Yeah I had to check sometimes myself. Glad to see your still around as well my man. Where is everyone....MSF?

Different platforms. I blew my engine about a year ago. I do miss that speed.

[Dave_The_BMXER]

So I'm at 142km and my car smokes after extended idle (10 min or more).

I assume this means the k04 is on it's way out. Anything I can do at this point or just budget to upgrade/replace?

Car is dead stock other than short ram. Not against modifying if I have to replace stuff but I don't have any huge power goals. I hear the reliable/fun ration gets out of wack after 300whp?

[loki]

Like I said, corksport intake and corksport inlet pipe will likely solve that issue.

I created a thread or post on this somewhere with pics edited in mS paint


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[SomeGuy]

Like I said, corksport intake and corksport inlet pipe will likely solve that issue.

I created a thread or post on this somewhere with pics edited in mS paint


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eh? really? Something doesn't sound right to me about that.

If bearings are going, it's time to replace the turbo...everything else is just a short term patch on broken hardware. I'd rather replace the turbo before the bearings go and you get metal chunks flying into your engine.

[loki]

No different than the smoking turbo fix a lot of dealers do which is to swap out the turbo inlet pipe. But I think they also swapped out my engine cover


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[Dave_The_BMXER]

Yeah I seem to remember a variety of other alternatives. A CS intake and inlet pipe is something I could use later anyway if I do upgrade things too right?

The car currently drives fine.

If I were to replace the turbo, are the BNR units worth the expense?
Afaik sup mods =
HPFP
AP
Plugs
TMIC

[MikeTheCheek]

Depends which BNR you go with. S1 is just like k04 but built better. S3/S4 is where the higher hp numbers start to come in. CS turbo is similar to S3. You can run the CS turbo (and possibly the S3) on a stock car aside from tune and HPFP, although most people have a few more bolt ons when going that route.

[ricola]

Yeah I seem to remember a variety of other alternatives. A CS intake and inlet pipe is something I could use later anyway if I do upgrade things too right?

The car currently drives fine.

If I were to replace the turbo, are the BNR units worth the expense?
Afaik sup mods =
HPFP
AP
Plugs
TMIC
Do it... Do it all!!!! Intake, tip, dp, hpfp, fmic, turbo, 3 bar map. Yum yum

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[Como]

So I'm at 142km and my car smokes after extended idle (10 min or more).

I assume this means the k04 is on it's way out. Anything I can do at this point or just budget to upgrade/replace?

Car is dead stock other than short ram. Not against modifying if I have to replace stuff but I don't have any huge power goals. I hear the reliable/fun ration gets out of wack after 300whp?


I do believe the kids these days are calling that 'vaping'

[Dave_The_BMXER]

Depends which BNR you go with. S1 is just like k04 but built better. S3/S4 is where the higher hp numbers start to come in. CS turbo is similar to S3. You can run the CS turbo (and possibly the S3) on a stock car aside from tune and HPFP, although most people have a few more bolt ons when going that route.

I'd go S3. Guess that is important to mention. ricola I actually don't want a FMIC. I'd prefer to keep things lower key.

[shift8]

OK stupid question. Where is the horn on the 2008 MS3? Haven't found a good picture that points me where it is located.

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[ricola]

OK stupid question. Where is the horn on the 2008 MS3? Haven't found a good picture that points me where it is located.

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I have an 07 and it was in front of the drivers tire

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[shift8]

I have an 07 and it was in front of the drivers tire

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Not sure if serious, or trolling[fry/] heh

The maintenance manual isn't overly clear where it is located :)