Random MS3 Chat Thread

[shift8]

I have an 07 and it was in front of the drivers tire

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Haha I read this as "in side the drivers tire" :)

I figured it was in that area. You can't see it from the engine bay can you?

I ask because horn isn't working and I'm pretty sure it'll be an electrical connection / clip issue. I've validated the relay clicks when pressing the horn button so it's probably not that (or a fuse).

[ricola]

Haha I read this as "in side the drivers tire" :)

I figured it was in that area. You can't see it from the engine bay can you?

I ask because horn isn't working and I'm pretty sure it'll be an electrical connection / clip issue. I've validated the relay clicks when pressing the horn button so it's probably not that (or a fuse).
Haha. It's located on the outside of the frame. You have to pull the bumper off.

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[shift8]

Haha. It's located on the outside of the frame. You have to pull the bumper off.

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I was afraid you were gonna say that...

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[Reddie1337]

Just have to take the fender liner off at the bottom of the bumper, you should be able to reach up and fix it from there, instead of pulling the WHOLE bumper off.

[SomeGuy]

Just have to take the fender liner off at the bottom of the bumper, you should be able to reach up and fix it from there, instead of pulling the WHOLE bumper off.

This...drivers front inner fender cover, same way you'd get to the fog light bulbs. It's just up a little bit.

Although taking the bumper off isn't a big deal either.

[ricola]

While you're at it buy these 😍 http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=83842

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[MikeTheCheek]

Horn randomly just stopped working on mine a couple weeks ago. Just had to touch the horn to make it work again. I believe the horn itself is the ground?

[shift8]

Horn randomly just stopped working on mine a couple weeks ago. Just had to touch the horn to make it work again. I believe the horn itself is the ground?
Yea I figure it's a connector because had the same issue with my starter. Once I reseated the connection I've had no issues.

Just a corrosion thing.

[SomeGuy]

Horn randomly just stopped working on mine a couple weeks ago. Just had to touch the horn to make it work again. I believe the horn itself is the ground?

The horn's bracket grounds to chassis.

[trance|ghost]

my car is driving me bonkers lately...

once again my vac at idle is reading low to mid 9s and drops to almost 7s when the defrost kicks on.... can't seem to find any vac leaks anywhere... ever since I started modding this thing a whole wack load of issues came up.

[loki]

That's the way it goes


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[pwdunmore]

I have noisy wheel bearing... Funny thing is it took me a week to start noticing it because racecar lmao...

Rockauto to the rescue though :) I hear MS6's can chew through these so I got a back up

[trance|ghost]

I made another video of the annoying transmission in this car

sound can be heard at 15 and 21 seconds, the wawawa... was hoping it was tires but def mechanical


https://youtu.be/fvQjqZ33eq0

[Reddie1337]

I made another video of the annoying transmission in this car

sound can be heard at 15 and 21 seconds, the wawawa... was hoping it was tires but def mechanical


https://youtu.be/fvQjqZ33eq0

If you are free Wednesday, I work late. I could probably throw it up if you're able to be in Cambridge by 6.

[SomeGuy]

I made another video of the annoying transmission in this car

sound can be heard at 15 and 21 seconds, the wawawa... was hoping it was tires but def mechanical


https://youtu.be/fvQjqZ33eq0

Are you sure it's transmission? Could be CV's or bearings too. Although it does sound a lot like gear noise.

[trance|ghost]

I am free only after 5!

It is def gear noise, from visual inspection the cv boot looks fine and no real serious play... noise doesn't change while swaying the car from left to right and the wheels itself have no play

most def gear noise! and most def annoying, only happens at lower speeds, the dealership won't help me because the car drives fine, other then the crazy noise.

I've been told the ford fluid is a poor choice the genpus so I might try something else, but the sound has been present since the day I purchased the car.

[SomeGuy]

The ford fluid is funny with the diff, but nothing with the gears. That doesn't even sound like diff noise, it sounds like what you'd get from straight cut gears or at least poorly meshed gears.

[Reddie1337]

I am free only after 5!

So are you able to make it Galt in Cambridge by 6? PM me if you'd like.

[shift8]

The ford fluid is funny with the diff, but nothing with the gears. That doesn't even sound like diff noise, it sounds like what you'd get from straight cut gears or at least poorly meshed gears.
Could synchros being worn cause that kind of poorly meshed gearing?

[trance|ghost]

the only sounds I can find similar is the newish tacomas that were recalled from rear differentials have bad pinion gearing set... so I was thinking it could be a diff problem, its speed dependant, and only happens while ON throttle, its louder at lower speeds and most prevalent in 4th gear, its also louder when its colder... I drove the car today shortly and it was much quieter when the car has been driven over some time.

[trance|ghost]

I have not spoken to the dealership about it, the car has factory ext warranty for a while... I just know with most dealerships, they won't fix things until its actually broken.

[loki]

I have not spoken to the dealership about it, the car has factory ext warranty for a while... I just know with most dealerships, they won't fix things until its actually broken.

you won't know until you call them

[SomeGuy]

the only sounds I can find similar is the newish tacomas that were recalled from rear differentials have bad pinion gearing set... so I was thinking it could be a diff problem, its speed dependant, and only happens while ON throttle, its louder at lower speeds and most prevalent in 4th gear, its also louder when its colder... I drove the car today shortly and it was much quieter when the car has been driven over some time.

It doesn't sound like the diff, those usually have a pulsating sound and you'll hear it when turning. It really sounds like poor gear meshing, so could be from some damaged gear set. Synchro issues usually only happen when shifting.

[loki]

Can you tell which door mine sits in front of?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170529/59b5b0fe8a82f857b19122f8d17fdfcb.jpg


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[trance|ghost]

It doesn't sound like the diff, those usually have a pulsating sound and you'll hear it when turning. It really sounds like poor gear meshing, so could be from some damaged gear set. Synchro issues usually only happen when shifting.

hmmm well hopefully the dealership gives it a listen, I almost want to send an email to the service manager and get him to listen.. but I also don't want to be that guy the fluid did look pretty crusty when I swapped it for the ford stuff!

it shifts like butter and drives really good.. other then the strange noise it makes... is there anyway possible a bad carrier bearing could cause this noise? on the pass side axle?

[DLYDRVN]

Oh hai.

Any of you fine gents who have worked with a pro-tuner mind sharing your experiences with regards to turnaround times between sending logs and receiving revisions? The tuner I'm dealing with right now seems pretty slow- like I'll send logs on a Tuesday and they'll tell me there's to much knock and find better fuel on the following monday... (like... at least LOOK at the logs. If they're shit you can tell me right away rather than me wasting a week when i could have been logging) Or i'll wait a week before getting a revision after sending clean logs.

I know this is a busy time of year for them so it could just be down to that, but I'm a little disappointed with the way communication has been happening and the length of the process. The tunes/revs themselves have been great so no complaints there. I'm just curious if i'm being a whiny shit and this is normal, or if other people usually experience faster turnaround.

[shift8]

Oh hai.

Any of you fine gents who have worked with a pro-tuner mind sharing your experiences with regards to turnaround times between sending logs and receiving revisions? The tuner I'm dealing with right now seems pretty slow- like I'll send logs on a Tuesday and they'll tell me there's to much knock and find better fuel on the following monday... (like... at least LOOK at the logs. If they're shit you can tell me right away rather than me wasting a week when i could have been logging) Or i'll wait a week before getting a revision after sending clean logs.

I know this is a busy time of year for them so it could just be down to that, but I'm a little disappointed with the way communication has been happening and the length of the process. The tunes/revs themselves have been great so no complaints there. I'm just curious if i'm being a whiny shit and this is normal, or if other people usually experience faster turnaround.
So I think you probably nailed it. Busy time of year. Think all you can do is give constructive feedback in a nice way re: communication and hope it works out.

At least I'm applying my logic as a consultant for 10 years, and that when you get overwhelmed two things apply:

* biggest accounts take priority
* noisiest account usually gets feedback (then end of line)
* those providing constructive criticism in a positive manner might get bumped

No idea if others work that way. Used Stratefied Tuning for OTS+ (which clearly has a much faster and less intensive turn around) but results were fast. I was also off peak season (fall).

GL!

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[trance|ghost]

I had a slight issue with my tuner.....

He got upset with me when I told him I would like to run 91, I'm not into searching for 94 if I'm travelling.... so he basically got all disgruntled and told me he would tune my car for shitty gas... I'm probably going to go with Freektune next.

[mickey_g]

When I did my tune they would let me know within 1 business day if there was anything pressing with my logs...otherwise it would take 3-4 business days for revised map. I had my tune done couple years ago around this time as well

[ricola]

I'm days away from starting engine break in and I'll be heading back to Fobio to get dyno tuned.

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[DLYDRVN]

Ok. So they're not too bad on turnarounds, its just the lack of communication on issues with the logs that i'm still a little annoyed with tho.

For the record my tuner is Stratified, tuning for u94 but I asked about 91 and they had no issues working with a 91 oct tune for my power goals.


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[pwdunmore]

I need touch up paint for my MS6, 27A red.

Anyone have suggestions? I wanted to get a Dr.Colourchip kit but they do not sell in Canada (anymore) and a trip to the US is a bit excessive for just this one thing.

[S.F.W.]

I need touch up paint for my MS6, 27A red.

Anyone have suggestions? I wanted to get a Dr.Colourchip kit but they do not sell in Canada (anymore) and a trip to the US is a bit excessive for just this one thing.

Napa or CarQuest can mix up a custom can for around $25 based on your colour code.

Could also look at this http://www.chipfixx.ca/

[Como]

How much do you require pwdunmore? I too am going to need some, maybe. Had one of those stupid bubbles forming under the vinyl on drivers door. So now in the process of doing the vinyl delete except it hasn't been warm enough to make the job easy. Undecided whether to leave that area black ie. paint it black or to paint it to the body color which is same as yours 27A.

[pwdunmore]

How much do you require pwdunmore? I too am going to need some, maybe. Had one of those stupid bubbles forming under the vinyl on drivers door. So now in the process of doing the vinyl delete except it hasn't been warm enough to make the job easy. Undecided whether to leave that area black ie. paint it black or to paint it to the body color which is same as yours 27A.

I need enough paint to do lots of small rock chip touch ups.

Do you have pics of what is happening to your vinyl? Como

[Como]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170628/a463422f313c8d93600d86d66fa3857c.jpg

See there's a rust spot. It was bubbling up and pushing out he vinyl. So I pulled vinyl off in that area. Now just trying to remove all of the vinyl. Then decide whether to leave it red or paint it black again after.

Wanted to address it quickly as my 3 has that issue and it took off out of control.


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[Mazdy]

anyone running Damond Motorsports PMM?

if so..how is it?

[ricola]

Does anyone have experience installing a bung on the 90* coupler off the turbo for a 3 port ebcs? I'm having trouble finding anything. Thanks.


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[loki]

Does anyone have experience installing a bung on the 90* coupler off the turbo for a 3 port ebcs? I'm having trouble finding anything. Thanks.


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I did it.

Picked up the piece from JRP for around 20 bucks I think...installed it and also put copper gasket maker around it to seal it better
ricola


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[loki]

Call first because I got lucky they only had one left when I showed up


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[ricola]

I did it.

Picked up the piece from JRP for around 20 bucks I think...installed it and also put copper gasket maker around it to seal it better
ricola


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Thanks!


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[shift8]

So time to replace the shocks and struts. I'm pretty sure I'm going to go Bilstein B12 w/ ProKit springs (vs Sport which is the more aggressive and lower option). Not really looking for drop, but a firmer ride from stock (I swapped back to stock from my Corksport coilovers due to them mostly failing over the winter). Doing some research for the price point I want (< $1500), seems like the B12 are a good all around kit that would firm up the ride, but be still pretty good for a daily driver. I take my kids to school a couple times a week, but otherwise I park the car as I work from home.

I do want to do an occasional autox and maybe one (or two) track days a year.

Thoughts? Could do the Koni Yellow + springs combo, but thinking the Bilsteins with matched springs (whatever that really means) might just be the easier set it and forget it option. I'll be installing myself.

[loki]

Don't buy Koni


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[loki]

Koni is the one thing I hate about my car


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[shift8]

Koni is the one thing I hate about my car


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That's been the general impression I've gotten in research. No one seems to get fired for buying bilstein :)

[S.F.W.]

Look at the Swift Spec-R instead of the Prokit.

[shift8]

Look at the Swift Spec-R instead of the Prokit.

Well, the B12 comes with the Eibach springs, so not much option there. And I've heard that before, but could you elaborate? Random brand pimping is useless without backing data :)

[shift8]

Well, the B12 comes with the Eibach springs, so not much option there. And I've heard that before, but could you elaborate? Random brand pimping is useless without backing data :)

Quick research seems to suggest the Spec-R are a bit stiffer, and maybe better suited to track/cross. I'm likely going to leave the ProKits on initially, see how they feel with some work, then decide if I need to change springs. What is more likely is that I do the whole corner balancing thing, match springs rates to the corner weights for a better harmonic front/rear, and then if necessary, look into some sway bars if I find things are still a little all over the map.

[loki]

I was on prokits and switched to Swift R

Good stuff, but either would be fine I'm sure


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[shift8]

I was on prokits and switched to Swift R

Good stuff, but either would be fine I'm sure

FYI I fully expect to drive around for about 2 weeks and realize that I want something with a higher coil rate :) I'll either be finding a set of corner scales or finding a place to get the corners measured, then order some springs. Thanks all for the feedback! Just looking for best deal now. Currently Garage16 seems to have the best price online that I can find.

[shift8]

Bilstein B12 ordered. Can't wait to install them. Curious how the ProKits will feel after they break in. Either way I expect suspension to feel better than my old and busted stock suspension :)

Rears are fine but pretty sure the fronts are original. No leaks, but still pretty soft.

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[Dave_The_BMXER]

So my smoking turbo is (surprise) not getting any better. So I am leaning toward S3 or CS turbo (wise financial choices and wife me damned)

If anyone is getting rid of supporting mods later summer HMU.

[Reddie1337]

Funny enough, I was just about to come in here and ask about Turbo issues.

My 2012 Speed with 187k on it is losing oil, like 1-1.5L per 2500km. I am seeing zero smoke, nothing abnormal. Thought it might be a clogged PCV, so I changed that, and I am still going through oil.

I was thinking maybe the turbo is leaking oil only into the exhaust side of the turbo and it would be going straight though my exhaust without causing smoke. Has anyone else seen this before? Just incase people are wondering, compression is good, no leaks on the outside of the engine from anywhere. So its internal, but I am not actually burning the oil. That's what's confusing me so much.

Thanks!

[SomeGuy]

I'd expect the catalytic converter would be enough to burn any oil leaking hot side of the turbo...you should get smoke. Get the vehicle up to temp and idle it for a while, that's usually where smoking turbo's show. There's really only two places for the oil to go, on the ground or burnt out the exhaust....but I'd expect you to know that anyway.

[loki]

Maybe his car vapes


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[Reddie1337]

I wish!

Normally I'd agree with you, I am only seeing the regular black smoke when you stomp on it, I do remote start my car every time, after letting the turbo timer shut it off 1-3 minutes after driving. And I never see smoke when I'm walking out to it. I always check.


-Reddie

[pwdunmore]

I wish!

Normally I'd agree with you, I am only seeing the regular black smoke when you stomp on it, I do remote start my car every time, after letting the turbo timer shut it off 1-3 minutes after driving. And I never see smoke when I'm walking out to it. I always check.


-Reddie

You tuned? You done a compression or leak down test?

That type of oil consumption is something not to be taken lightly on a stock engine. Forged engines burn a little bit because of the extra clearances but I don't even burn that much from 5000km on a forged engine.

I would suspect a cracked ringland...

[shift8]

You tuned? You done a compression or leak down test?

That type of oil consumption is something not to be taken lightly.
Did someone say part out?!

[pwdunmore]

Did someone say part out?!

Lmao... that's mean but very true for most cases when this happens.

[shift8]

Lmao... that's mean but very true for most cases when this happens.
I'm a natural jerk. Gotta use what you got.

Alternatively it's a great reason to go full built!

[Reddie1337]

You tuned? You done a compression or leak down test?

That type of oil consumption is something not to be taken lightly on a stock engine. Forged engines burn a little bit because of the extra clearances but I don't even burn that much from 5000km on a forged engine.

I would suspect a cracked ringland...

Stock internals, I have an Accessport with an OTS map. CAI, autotech hpfp, hollowed second cat, straight pipe resonator, and hollowed muffler. 2/3 mounts.

Nothing super crazy, and compression, perfect numbers. No issues with that. That's what made me think turbo.


I'm a natural jerk. Gotta use what you got.

Alternatively it's a great reason to go full built!

For me, I would just be buying a wrecker engine, throw it in. I daily this car, Oakville to Cambridge daily. I am going for reliability, not full out speed. This is just 100x better than my Sky was for the fun factor. That's why I haven't gone huge power with it.

[shift8]

Stock internals, I have an Accessport with an OTS map. CAI, autotech hpfp, hollowed second cat, straight pipe resonator, and hollowed muffler. 2/3 mounts.

Nothing super crazy, and compression, perfect numbers. No issues with that. That's what made me think turbo.

For me, I would just be buying a wrecker engine, throw it in. I daily this car, Oakville to Cambridge daily. I am going for reliability, not full out speed. This is just 100x better than my Sky was for the fun factor. That's why I haven't gone huge power with it.

We're in a similar boat. I daily'd mine for 3 years until recently. Similar setup but I'm all stock exhaust. I've recently decided to invest in a proper suspension, mild drop, but better handling than my shitty old stock setup :)

Good luck, hope it's something that can be fixed relatively inexpensively.

[Como]

Might be worth investing a little cash to try a restricter bolt?

Normally that second cat with ‘hide’ a smoking turbo.


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[Sycoa]

Found Penzoil Platinum 4.78L for $26.88 at Walmart. Photobucket doesn't work but here's a link (https://m.canadiantire.ca/products/productDetail/1992072P?storeClearance=false&selectedSku=1992073&isNonOnline=false&isAutomotive=false&isBarcodeValue=false&serverName=ATLAS&quantity=1), CT is almost double the price. Is it only the Ultra that's any good, or is this the "next best T6" for a pretty good price?

[Sycoa]

Meant to type 4.73L, my mistake.

[SomeGuy]

Both Platinum and Ultra are fine.

Keep in mind one jug won't do a full change on a MS3.

[Sycoa]

Figure if a 5L jug is around $50 off promo, and you still need more after that anyway, buying two of these works out to not a bad deal. It's not on their website so maybe they're just trying to clear them out.

[pwdunmore]

Anyone know a machine shop in the west end that can mill a flange flat on my exhaust manifold?

I found a leak and will likely need it done to fix the issue unless I just have bad luck with a faulty gasket.

[shift8]

Anyone with experience around the P2101 CEL? Basically means issue with throttle body / ECM unable to change position where it wants.

No issues until car sat in garage for a few weeks. I've cleaned the grounding plate and cleaned the contacts in the throttle body wiring harness. I'm relatively sure at this point it's not that.

Leaves me with a couple things:

* throttle body control unit died
* actuator in TB died
* carbon build up causing plate to be stuck

Next step is to clean the TB with TB cleaner (likely needs done anyways).

Thoughts on most likely issue? No other CEL are present. I have a U2064 as well but think that has to do with the EGR delete and block off. I have that CEL deleted in the tune I'm running.

[MikeTheCheek]

There was someone I was talking to that had the the control unit die on his TB I believe. Didn't mention if he threw a code but he did say he had to replace the whole throttle body. That was around $500 at cost...

Are there any other issues? Is the car drivable?

[shift8]

There was someone I was talking to that had the the control unit die on his TB I believe. Didn't mention if he threw a code but he did say he had to replace the whole throttle body. That was around $500 at cost...

Are there any other issues? Is the car drivable?
Car is undrivable. Currently in limp / safety mode. Will not run above 2500 rpm and prefers to stall.

I was afraid of the throttle body being toast. That's worst case scenario.

The car unfortunately almost requires it being fixed since the price of working MS3s is already quite low :)

Hoping a thorough throttle body cleaning will resolve it, but I think it's 50/50.

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[SomeGuy]

Car is undrivable. Currently in limp / safety mode. Will not run above 2500 rpm and prefers to stall.

I was afraid of the throttle body being toast. That's worst case scenario.

The car unfortunately almost requires it being fixed since the price of working MS3s is already quite low :)

Hoping a thorough throttle body cleaning will resolve it, but I think it's 50/50.

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Take the thing apart first before you go replacing parts...something obvious might jump out while servicing it (dirty, frayed wires, something jammed up, etc)

[shift8]

Take the thing apart first before you go replacing parts...something obvious might jump out while servicing it (dirty, frayed wires, something jammed up, etc)
Oh that's the plan. Since it was fine before storing for about 4 weeks, I'm wondering if the throttle plate is just a bit stuck. I'm hoping a clean up will be enough.

I've already checked all the wires etc while I was doing the electronics clean up and everything looked clean (except the grounding plate which I've cleaned up now).

Im going to do a check of the throttle body controller to make sure there isn't an open circuit (per the shop manual). Hoping once I take it off and clean it up that things will be fine.

Keep you posted. There can't be too many things to look through I don't think.

In other news, the screws holding the shroud to my CPE TMIC are very tight and the one cap has started to stretch out, which is going to make taking it out a huge PITA...

[Sycoa]

Anyone able to chime in for advice on these? I don't track the car, mostly just highway and a bit of spirited driving, so I don't need anything super fancy. Not much in the way of reviews for these pads though, but $420 shipped ain't bad.

http://www.tdotperformance.ca/ebc-brakes-s20k1758-s20-kits-ultimax-and-plain-rotors-incl-rotors-and-pads-front-and-rear-rotor-dia-12-6-in.html

[SomeGuy]

In other news, the screws holding the shroud to my CPE TMIC are very tight and the one cap has started to stretch out, which is going to make taking it out a huge PITA...


They're a pretty standard thread size, so get some replacement bolts (rather than hex cap screws) to replace them. If you get stuck, grind a slot head into the top of them and use a big ass screwdriver to remove.

[shift8]

They're a pretty standard thread size, so get some replacement bolts (rather than hex cap screws) to replace them. If you get stuck, grind a slot head into the top of them and use a big ass screwdriver to remove.
Haha that was my backup plan :) Have the Dremel packed up and ready to head down to Streetsville after chiro.

Sprayed some penetrating fluid last time I was there, so hopefully that'll help. Not too worried about the screw itself, more worried about it snapping off in the hole.

Can't wait to get the car home and do a proper tear down and engine bay corrosion clean up. Now that it's my third car I can actually do a more thorough tear down than when it was my daily.

[SomeGuy]

Haha that was my backup plan :) Have the Dremel packed up and ready to head down to Streetsville after chiro.

Sprayed some penetrating fluid last time I was there, so hopefully that'll help. Not too worried about the screw itself, more worried about it snapping off in the hole.

Can't wait to get the car home and do a proper tear down and engine bay corrosion clean up. Now that it's my third car I can actually do a more thorough tear down than when it was my daily.

Snapping off won't be the end of the world. The shroud will come off then, which means you can get the TMIC off, which means you should be easily able to drill out or depending on the TMIC, thread the rest through from the back with vise grips.

Hopefully they come out clean though :) I always use a cordless impact on them, less chances of breaking stuff than using hex keys or a ratchet I find.

[shift8]

Snapping off won't be the end of the world. The shroud will come off then, which means you can get the TMIC off, which means you should be easily able to drill out or depending on the TMIC, thread the rest through from the back with vise grips.

Hopefully they come out clean though :) I always use a cordless impact on them, less chances of breaking stuff than using hex keys or a ratchet I find.
Yea unfortunately I don't think I have the proper size hex for my cordless impact. Always some sort of bit to buy :)

But you're right not end of the world, and I have a tap and die set at home incase I needed to retap it. Important part is getting access to the throttle body tonight anyways.

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[shift8]

Welp got everything apart, cleaned the Tb (which wasn't actually as bad as thought and secretly hoped. Thanks OCC and EGR delete).

No bueno. Think it might be electrical but ran out of time to start probing via shop manual. At this point unfortunately quick tow to the shop for a debugging session.

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[shift8]

Welp got everything apart, cleaned the Tb (which wasn't actually as bad as thought and secretly hoped. Thanks OCC and EGR delete).

No bueno. Think it might be electrical but ran out of time to start probing via shop manual. At this point unfortunately quick tow to the shop for a debugging session.

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So quick update in case anyone cares. I was somewhat on the right track with it being electrical. Turns out I was doing the right thing but in the wrong area.

After a bunch of debugging at the dealership (more thorough update Friday when I can get back down to pick up the car and talk to the tech), I understand the issue had to do with corrosion, likely with grounding, in a different area than I was working.

Over the winter I'll be putting the car on jack stands and pulling a bunch of stuff off and doing some corrosion clean up and repair, then try and do some sort of sealing to reduce it in the future.

The nice thing going forward is this car will no longer be seeing winter driving while it remains in my possession. However long that is :)

More to follow. Would have been likely I would have resolved it myself if the car had been in my garage and I could have more easily worked on it here. C'est la vie.

[shift8]

So quick update in case anyone cares. I was somewhat on the right track with it being electrical. Turns out I was doing the right thing but in the wrong area.

(snip)

More to follow. Would have been likely I would have resolved it myself if the car had been in my garage and I could have more easily worked on it here. C'est la vie.

So ordering a new fuse block due to a bunch of corrosion. Looking at the diagnostics the voltage is really low in a lot of spots. A bit better with replacement of a few fuses but still really rough idle.

Hopefully this will sort out the electrical. Also looking like new turbo soon due to a whine I'm hearing, and tech noted a lot of shaft play.

Pretty sure I'm gonna go BNR S1. I don't really have much interest in big turbo upgrade. Might also look into the Corksport turbo which from what I've read seems to be well received.

Suggestions or pointers to used would also be welcome.

[SomeGuy]

So ordering a new fuse block due to a bunch of corrosion. Looking at the diagnostics the voltage is really low in a lot of spots. A bit better with replacement of a few fuses but still really rough idle.

Hopefully this will sort out the electrical. Also looking like new turbo soon due to a whine I'm hearing, and tech noted a lot of shaft play.

Pretty sure I'm gonna go BNR S1. I don't really have much interest in big turbo upgrade. Might also look into the Corksport turbo which from what I've read seems to be well received.

Suggestions or pointers to used would also be welcome.

The CS turbo is a fair bit bigger than the k04 or even the BNR S1...you probably would be better served finding a good condition used k04.

[MikeTheCheek]

Love my CS turbo. Not really sure what the price is of the bnr s1 but if they're comparable and you want something that can give you quite a bit more hp down the road, go CS. If strict k04 and nothing more, then BNR is definitely still a great option

[shift8]

Love my CS turbo. Not really sure what the price is of the bnr s1 but if they're comparable and you want something that can give you quite a bit more hp down the road, go CS. If strict k04 and nothing more, then BNR is definitely still a great option
Basically price is 899 vs 1099 USD between BNR S1 and CS...

Not sure I'm looking for a HP upgrade for fear of resulting in engine rebuild, but I'm probably already in that territory at 185k :)

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[shift8]

Love my CS turbo. Not really sure what the price is of the bnr s1 but if they're comparable and you want something that can give you quite a bit more hp down the road, go CS. If strict k04 and nothing more, then BNR is definitely still a great option
Also I'll have to look at the power curves of the various turbos as I don't really want to introduce any additional turbo lag :)

I really should have just sold the MS3 a while ago and bought an NB Miata as a dedicated track car :)

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[mickey_g]

Not sure if you saw this...but Edge has an aftermarket OE replacement turbo worth looking at if you are not looking for increased power and saves you some coin over the BNR

http://edgeautosport.com/oe-aftermarket-turbocharger-kit-mazdaspeed-3-2007-2013-mazdaspeed-6-2006-2007/

[shift8]

Not sure if you saw this...but Edge has an aftermarket OE replacement turbo worth looking at if you are not looking for increased power and saves you some coin over the BNR

http://edgeautosport.com/oe-aftermarket-turbocharger-kit-mazdaspeed-3-2007-2013-mazdaspeed-6-2006-2007/
My googling didn't find that. I'll check it out thanks!

[loki]

Gt3071r as a minimum


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[loki]

I have an extra one that needs rebuilding


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[Como]

Has anyone done their own valve cleaning? Was just wanting to try the b12 with picks and wire brushes technique. Walnut shells are supposed work amazing but I don’t really have the equipment for that.

Tempted to do mine either just before or maybe while my car is in hibernation.

[shift8]

Well, we're home. Fuse block not changed because price I got was a mistake. Price was just for the plastic box :)

FYI never need to replace the fuse box. About 3200 bux brand new (I did not replace it).

Got all the fuses replaced and some mild cleaning. I'll have to finish it off so that things sty clean and keep working.

Now to look into turbo replacements. Getting quite a bit of whine now. Will follow up shortly but basically whine sounds like it's coming from where I'm pointing in the picture. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170826/7fcbf8dc11667bb1667658097e7aad08.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170826/0366f44028b196047f38fcf3efe7d259.jpg

[SomeGuy]

Uhm, that's right by the HPFP...

[shift8]

Uhm, that's right by the HPFP...
The fuel pump is a bit further back right? It's really weird. It's like a higher pitch whine, almost like something is leaking air around a rubber gasket.

Have autotech HPFP internals, bought new around 145k, car has 185k now, so I'd be surprised if there is a failure there.

I'll try and get a video and audio recording of what I'm hearing. Wasn't doing this until I let the car sit for 5 weeks. It's crazy how many problems popped up by parking in a garage for just over a month. I'm sure they were there and have just manifested now :)

[shift8]

The fuel pump is a bit further back right? It's really weird. It's like a higher pitch whine, almost like something is leaking air around a rubber gasket.

Have autotech HPFP internals, bought new around 145k, car has 185k now, so I'd be surprised if there is a failure there.

I'll try and get a video and audio recording of what I'm hearing. Wasn't doing this until I let the car sit for 5 weeks. It's crazy how many problems popped up by parking in a garage for just over a month. I'm sure they were there and have just manifested now :)
https://youtu.be/WdrDLADQBYM

Listening again it actually sounds like it's coming down from near the throttle body, not at the top.

Since I removed the throttle body, I'm starting to think maybe a leak around the gasket?

[SomeGuy]

Yes HPFP is just slightly back of where you are pointing...but given you were thinking turbo and where you were pointing, it was closer.

That doesn't sound like a leak though, would be more periodic with each combustion. There isn't much moving in that location though, I mean under throttle body your basically at the transmission...pilot bearing/throw out bearing below. The fan is in front. Mechanically internally to the engine there isn't much either, everything else is on the left side (timing chain, belt drive, etc). Sort of reminds me of the sound my spill valve would make at cold start...known issue with aftermarket hpfps at cold start/idle. If you blip the throttle does it go away when you do it?

[shift8]

Yes HPFP is just slightly back of where you are pointing...but given you were thinking turbo and where you were pointing, it was closer.

That doesn't sound like a leak though, would be more periodic with each combustion. There isn't much moving in that location though, I mean under throttle body your basically at the transmission...pilot bearing/throw out bearing below. The fan is in front. Mechanically internally to the engine there isn't much either, everything else is on the left side (timing chain, belt drive, etc). Sort of reminds me of the sound my spill valve would make at cold start...known issue with aftermarket hpfps at cold start/idle. If you blip the throttle does it go away when you do it?
Yea I'm a bit confused too. At first thought it was the pipe on top which does have air moving but listening again in the garage instead of outside it sounds a lot more like by the throttle body.

Blipping the throttle doesn't seem to make it go away. When I recorded it the engine was cool(ish) so the rad fan wasn't running (not an electric motor whine from the rad fan).

Seemed to do it even once I was home after driving an hour so didn't seem to go away after things warmed up.

Also when I increase rpm from like 900 to 1400 or so you can hear the whine change tone a bit. After a certain rpm you can't really hear it any more but I think that's because the engine just gets a lot louder.

I've never really heard that sound before. Also if it matters clutch in or out doesn't cause any change to the sound.

[shift8]

Also the mechanic mentioned the turbo when I pointed out that whine but now that I'm pin pointing it to the front of the engine I'm much less convinced the turbo has anything to do with this.

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[ricola]

Hey guys. Anyone that can weigh in on the Damond fost intake manifold? It looks so nice.


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[shift8]

Hey guys. Anyone that can weigh in on the Damond fost intake manifold? It looks so nice.

Was going to look into it if they ever figured out the TMIC setup, or order one and try to figure it out with my brother in law as he has access to a pipe bender...

[shift8]

Also the mechanic mentioned the turbo when I pointed out that whine but now that I'm pin pointing it to the front of the engine I'm much less convinced the turbo has anything to do with this.

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Made myself up a boost leak tester today. Good news is I've isolated a boost leak to the same area that is making the whining noise.

More to follow. Gonna pull the IC off and determine if I have some loose connections or if there is a crack in some tubing.

[shift8]

Sigh. Had the throttle body apart when I was diagnosing P2101 issues. Put it back just enough so it wasn't going to be an issue during tow.

Long story short, told techs a couple times about the throttle body and other clamps are mostly just tight enough to not fall off. They tightened everything, but didn't put the 2 rear throttle body bolts in.

Found them in the trunk still. Put them in, no more whine.

In other news, checked the IC and its super clean. No oil bypass. Nothing in the hoses either, so that's something. I'll have to pull the TIP out in a couple weeks and double check the play in the turbo to determine if it's something I need to bother with over the winter.

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[shift8]

OK, so finally got a bit of time to play around and start working on the suspension again. Last time I did this I had camber plates and coilovers, so things were simpler. This time I'm doing struts, and I've run into something I'm not sure about.

I have the top hats off the stock struts after compressing the spring and pulling everything apart. Doing some try fitting of the top hat, insulator, and the dust boot, and that's where things are confusing me. I don't have much thread out of the top, so there is no way to really attach things together. Couldn't really find any one else doing the Bilstein install, so here I am. There is a small kind of rubber/plastic sleeve under the insulator that seems to be hanging things up. Not sure if that is intended to stay or come out?

B12 on the left, stock on the right:

http://i.imgur.com/NxQJu1Wh.jpg (https://imgur.com/NxQJu1W)

http://i.imgur.com/xGRpy9hh.jpg?1 (https://imgur.com/xGRpy9h)

http://i.imgur.com/tt41slNh.jpg?1 (https://imgur.com/tt41slN)

http://i.imgur.com/OhtAM0kh.jpg?1 (https://imgur.com/OhtAM0k)

[shift8]

Ok think I got it. The B12 has internal bump stops, so looks like I need to pull the bump stops from the spring insulator.

Things look much better. In other news, the bump stop was destroyed :) My buddy says that should buff right out though.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170909/02b22dcc2580e1690d09c71d0ea54b0e.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170909/8e0a8176d995760020e465e54f2c9371.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170909/a8cdc784243ed1ba2a61375877b98ae0.jpg

[pwdunmore]

Can anyone recommend a good dash cam? Looking for one for myself and as a gift to a friend.

[DLYDRVN]

Can anyone recommend a good dash cam? Looking for one for myself and as a gift to a friend.

I'm running a Thinkware F770 with rear cam. Great camera, decent moble connectivity and software. All the features, plus good picture quality. Whatever you get go with a hardwire kit as it makes it completely set and forget. I got mine from BlackBoxMyCar.com as they are Canadian and I got excellent service from them over the phone.

Thinkware now has an F800 and F800 Pro as well. I would not hesitate to recommend Thinkware at all.

https://www.blackboxmycar.ca/collections/thinkware/products/thinkware-f770-dash-cam?variant=42929200336

[natspriceless]

Can anyone recommend a good dash cam? Looking for one for myself and as a gift to a friend.

GoLuk T1 - great for the price. Clear pics and videos even at night

Got mine from Lockdown Security a few years ago

[pwdunmore]

Anyone have a Boost leak tester made up already in the GTA?

I bought some stuff to make one but I wanted to see if anyone had one laying around I could borrow.

[shift8]

Anyone have a Boost leak tester made up already in the GTA?

I bought some stuff to make one but I wanted to see if anyone had one laying around I could borrow.
If you wanna come to my place in Alliston I have one.

Boost leak and leak down kit. I just built mine from parts made at Lowes and wrapped it in some fibre tape to fill up any space.

[shift8]

Hey lazy web! Wanna pull my rear adjustable camber arms and put the stock ones back in.

What is the minimum amount of disassembly I can do? Possible to remove them on both sides without undoing anything else?

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[Polish_Eagle]

Hey lazy web! Wanna pull my rear adjustable camber arms and put the stock ones back in.

What is the minimum amount of disassembly I can do? Possible to remove them on both sides without undoing anything else?

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Take the wheel off, remove the two control arm bolts, swap arms, now reinstall. That's all I did and the total install time was about 15 minutes a wheel.

[shift8]

Take the wheel off, remove the two control arm bolts, swap arms, now reinstall. That's all I did and the total install time was about 15 minutes a wheel.
Gen1 or Gen2. I feel like remembering on my Gen1 not having enough space to pull the bolt out fully.

Will give a shot this weekend though. My rear arms are seized so want to pull them out and get them fixed.

Thanks!

[shift8]

Does anyone in the Barrie(ish) area do valve cleaning? Honestly, I don't think I want to bother doing it myself and purchasing the tools etc, and would prefer to just take it to someone and drop the car off for a couple days if necessary.

Would probably also request installation of my new injector seals at the same time.

[SomeGuy]

Not Barrie but I know DLYDRVN and I have been talking about doing valve cleaning on his car, be nice to do a couple at once. I have the equipment to do it.

[shift8]

Not Barrie but I know DLYDRVN and I have been talking about doing valve cleaning on his car, be nice to do a couple at once. I have the equipment to do it.
Oh really. I'd definitely be up to head over and do a bunch together. You're in Kitchener right?

[SomeGuy]

Oh really. I'd definitely be up to head over and do a bunch together. You're in Kitchener right?

Yup. Ideally we do a bunch same day so I only have to clean up the blasting mess once lol

[shift8]

Yup. Ideally we do a bunch same day so I only have to clean up the blasting mess once lol
Totally down. Just let me know!

[pwdunmore]

I'd be down to help SomeGuy shift8

I don't need it because my forged engine is still fresh but this would be handy to know the process. I would help wrench whoever's cars are being done.

I've taken my intake manifold off many times but I have not done the TDC rotation + cleaning.

[shift8]

So, when we doing this thing? :)

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[SomeGuy]

Need to hear from DLYDRVN lol

[shift8]

Need to hear from DLYDRVN lol
Thinking maybe mid/late November on a weekend? We'll see what dly has to say :)

[SomeGuy]

Sent him a text...he's going to see when he's free on a weekend.

[MS3_]

Yup. Ideally we do a bunch same day so I only have to clean up the blasting mess once lol

would be down to watch coz i wanna do mine as well lol

[Como]

I might be interested too if it would fit into my somewhat hectic schedule.


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[Polish_Eagle]

Gen1 or Gen2. I feel like remembering on my Gen1 not having enough space to pull the bolt out fully.

Will give a shot this weekend though. My rear arms are seized so want to pull them out and get them fixed.

Thanks!

I have a Gen 2, but the bolt won't come out on the one side if you pull straight out. What I did was unbolt it, and when you try to remove it you need to angle the control arm so the bolt is angled too and can be removed. Though, be sure to remove the one connected to the hub first.

[shift8]

I have a Gen 2, but the bolt won't come out on the one side if you pull straight out. What I did was unbolt it, and when you try to remove it you need to angle the control arm so the bolt is angled too and can be removed. Though, be sure to remove the one connected to the hub first.Cool yea was a hit more of a problem on the gen1 because there is some part of the fuel system in the way. Had to bend the bracket back which gave me just enough room to get the bolt out (after freeing my gear wrench :))

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[shift8]

What is under the black metal plate in the upper right corner? I assume it is something in the fuel system.

It seems to have an electric whine that I didn't notice until I stripped the rear :) https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171025/d606975d397696e5f384c8e23ee89f77.jpg

[MikeTheCheek]

Wouldn’t that be where the fuel pump would go?

[shift8]

Wouldn’t that be where the fuel pump would go?Indeed that would definitely make sense. Just wasn't exactly sure how to figure it out :)

[911onFire]

Can anyone recommend a good dash cam? Looking for one for myself and as a gift to a friend.

Check Amazon. I spent about $30 and I'm happy.

[pwdunmore]

Cobb knob for anyone looking:
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.html?adId=1316071766&requestSource=b

[loki]

My panic alarm keeps randomly going off throughout the night...

I was looking out the window just now and it went off by itself..

Any ideas why this would happen?


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[pwdunmore]

This can happen with a low battery or a hood latch sensor that is going bad. loki
I had this happen when I had a MS6 as a parts car in my driveway.

I fixed it by unplugging the hood latch sensor because I didn't want to change a battery on a parts car.

[loki]

Yeh I smashed in the back right of the car, maybe it’s throwing something off

Thanks!


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[loki]

I’m assuming the same goes for the trunk


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[loki]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171220/380f5d65a70065b541cc07d47237ccd5.jpg


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[pwdunmore]

What happened??? loki

[loki]

Exhaustion...

Backed into a column on a day I should have been at home sick in bed


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[SomeGuy]

Oh man lol

[loki]

Yeh it was a rough week


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[SomeGuy]

I'd say...body shop will probably end up being $1000-1500 to fix that too :(

[breakfasteatre]

Might as well write it off

[SomeGuy]

https://youtu.be/4KAizV0BGTk

Time lapse of myself and DLYDRVN finding and fixing a crankcase pressure issue on his car...oil puked out of his dipstick and valve cover breather into the intake, car was misfiring and smoking badly. Amounted to pulling the entire intake tract (manifold and all), cleaning out all the oil that had puked into it, replacing the PCV valve, doing a compression test, replacing the valve cover (with 2nd gen version), removing the OCC lines/routing (which was the main cause of the problem we think from freezing up), new plugs (old ones were badly fouled with oil), oil change, and a few other odds and ends.

Longer day than we expected but car runs great again now.

[DLYDRVN]

Seriously, it looked like a mob hit:

http://amplexusmusic.com/galleries/misc_pics/IMG_2248.jpg
SomeGuy deserves a lot of thanks for taking me in last minute during his holiday!


https://youtu.be/4KAizV0BGTk

Time lapse of myself and DLYDRVN finding and fixing a crankcase pressure issue on his car...oil puked out of his dipstick and valve cover breather into the intake, car was misfiring and smoking badly. Amounted to pulling the entire intake tract (manifold and all), cleaning out all the oil that had puked into it, replacing the PCV valve, doing a compression test, replacing the valve cover (with 2nd gen version), removing the OCC lines/routing (which was the main cause of the problem we think from freezing up), new plugs (old ones were badly fouled with oil), oil change, and a few other odds and ends.

Longer day than we expected but car runs great again now.

[loki]

I unplugged my horns


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[loki]

Couldn’t take any more panic alarms non-stop


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[Flagrum_3]

https://youtu.be/4KAizV0BGTk

Time lapse of myself and DLYDRVN finding and fixing a crankcase pressure issue on his car...oil puked out of his dipstick and valve cover breather into the intake, car was misfiring and smoking badly. Amounted to pulling the entire intake tract (manifold and all), cleaning out all the oil that had puked into it, replacing the PCV valve, doing a compression test, replacing the valve cover (with 2nd gen version), removing the OCC lines/routing (which was the main cause of the problem we think from freezing up), new plugs (old ones were badly fouled with oil), oil change, and a few other odds and ends.

Longer day than we expected but car runs great again now.

After watching that video, I have only one thing to say; Damn you guys are slow. ; )

Happy New Year.


_3

[Flagrum_3]

I unplugged my horns


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My horns were acting up too. I'm guessing its just from the cold, or maybe corroded connectors. I'll have to check it out on Tuesday when I can get it on a hoist.

_3

[SomeGuy]

After watching that video, I have only one thing to say; Damn you guys are slow. ; )

Happy New Year.


_3

LoL we definitely weren't working our hardest...but there was a LOT of cleaning of parts as we went that killed a ton of time.

[Polish_Eagle]

That's a sweet garage setup you have. I always wanted a lift in my garage, I've been on the fence for a quick jack.

[shift8]

That's a sweet garage setup you have. I always wanted a lift in my garage, I've been on the fence for a quick jack.I asked SomeGuy about his lift like that. The quickjack is very appealing for the price vs what SomeGuy paid and had to do.

[Flagrum_3]

LoL we definitely weren't working our hardest...but there was a LOT of cleaning of parts as we went that killed a ton of time.

Well the sarcasm went to waste...

i.e 2minutes 47seconds to complete the job. ; )


_3

[SomeGuy]

That's a sweet garage setup you have. I always wanted a lift in my garage, I've been on the fence for a quick jack.

I asked SomeGuy about his lift like that. The quickjack is very appealing for the price vs what SomeGuy paid and had to do.

Do it. Even the quick jack is world's better than jacks/jack stands. My lift was expensive to buy/install in the end I'm somewhere around $6000-7000 out of pocket to get things setup when you count the lift itself (around 4-4.5 grand shipped), concrete work, tools to install that I didn't already have, fluids, custom hydraulic lines to position the console where I wanted it, air feed with dedicated filter/regulator/lubricator, etc.

I'd do it again though, although probably not a Bendpak given how much of a PITA it was to deal with them and how long it was delayed. The lift is just so incredibly useful and makes working on vehicles so much better. The other option out there is a maxjax that would be cheaper and give you similar lift height to what I have. I had to do concrete work regardless because my builder screwed up and saw cut my slab right where I planned for the posts to go...so at that point I decided I would do a flush mount lift so it was never in the way. I can still squeeze two vehicles in my garage which would never happen with a 2 post installed.


Well the sarcasm went to waste...

i.e 2minutes 47seconds to complete the job. ; )


_3

LOL I didn't even catch that...I thought you were looking at the timestamp in the video and saw how many hours we spent futzing around with this god forsaken car.

[pwdunmore]

So all this talk in the part out thread for the MS3 is making me want to part out the MS6 I just inherited.
I just want the longblock as it slipped timing and I have parts to do a stock engine rebuild.

I wanted to gauge interest to see if anyone wants anything and can help with the part out if not I will do it myself. If you help you can keep some parts to sell.
The quarter panels are rusted like most mazdaspeed6's but the rest of the car is in good condition.

If I wanted to make the car good again it needs rust repair + rebuilding the engine doesn't make sense considering the value of the car @ 280k

[SomeGuy]

So all this talk in the part out thread for the MS3 is making me want to part out the MS6 I just inherited.
I just want the longblock as it slipped timing and I have parts to do a stock engine rebuild.

I wanted to gauge interest to see if anyone wants anything and can help with the part out if not I will do it myself. If you help you can keep some parts to sell.
The quarter panels are rusted like most mazdaspeed6's but the rest of the car is in good condition.

If I wanted to make the car good again it needs rust repair + rebuilding the engine doesn't make sense considering the value of the car @ 280k

LoL double part out madness?

[pwdunmore]

LoL double part out madness?

I am down if others are, I was going to pay a shop to take out the engine then sell the rims + bumpers to cover the costs.

[SomeGuy]

I am down if others are, I was going to pay a shop to take out the engine then sell the rims + bumpers to cover the costs.

Where abouts are you?

[Como]

So all this talk in the part out thread for the MS3 is making me want to part out the MS6 I just inherited.
I just want the longblock as it slipped timing and I have parts to do a stock engine rebuild.

I wanted to gauge interest to see if anyone wants anything and can help with the part out if not I will do it myself. If you help you can keep some parts to sell.
The quarter panels are rusted like most mazdaspeed6's but the rest of the car is in good condition.

If I wanted to make the car good again it needs rust repair + rebuilding the engine doesn't make sense considering the value of the car @ 280k

I may have some interest in a part out. You don’t by chance have a rear diff mount on that car do you?? Lol.
Is it a GT model?


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[pwdunmore]

I may have some interest in a part out. You don’t by chance have a rear diff mount on that car do you?? Lol.
Is it a GT model?


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It's a stock MS6 so it would be a stock diff mount FYI. GT model.

[Como]

Did that group valve cleaning in the fall ever happen?
I’d like to do mine still. In spring I guess as my car is parked in my garage for now.
pwdunmore
How’s the interior on that ms6 you’re considering parting out? My drivers seat has a huge cut/Rip in it.


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[SomeGuy]

Nope, never got to it.

[shift8]

I've decided if my car doesn't sell in the next little bit that I'm going to go full stupid and just have the engine rebuilt, so I'll deal with valve cleaning then...

[pwdunmore]

Did that group valve cleaning in the fall ever happen?
I’d like to do mine still. In spring I guess as my car is parked in my garage for now.
pwdunmore
How’s the interior on that ms6 you’re considering parting out? My drivers seat has a huge cut/Rip in it.


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The whole interior is in good condition. No rips or major scratches. I was hoping to sell all the seats as a set.
I don't have the space to store it for long, my girlfriend will get annoyed with a MS6 interior in our condo.

If you are willing to take them all I would give you a break on the pricing.

Any funds recovered on this MS6's body part out are going rebuild the engine so I have a spare rebuilt block which will go to me or whoever wants to buy it if they blow their's up.

Trans and diff are up for grabs but if no one wants them I will keep it in the car and scrap it, as I have a spare diff already and my trans is good with less kms.

[pwdunmore]

MS6 is on kijiji for part out FYI.

If anyone wants anything let me know, discounts for forum members.

[shift8]

I've been just doing a bunch of clean up to the car, and one of the issues I've had is around low voltage through everything. I generally think it's a grounding issue, and I'll be doing some more things here soon to clean all of that up.

However, when I was at a Mazda dealership recently to have some of this diagnosed (when I couldn't solve the issues after the car sat in my father-in-laws garage for too long), on his laptop he had some software that showed line graphs of the various voltages for the sensors in the car.

It seems like something that would be incredibly handy, but I have absolutely no idea what software it might have been. Could have been Mazda dealer/mechanic specific software, but it'd be nice to find something that would show me the voltage outputs across the various sensors for debugging purposes.

Anyone know of something like this?

[ricola]

I've been just doing a bunch of clean up to the car, and one of the issues I've had is around low voltage through everything. I generally think it's a grounding issue, and I'll be doing some more things here soon to clean all of that up.

However, when I was at a Mazda dealership recently to have some of this diagnosed (when I couldn't solve the issues after the car sat in my father-in-laws garage for too long), on his laptop he had some software that showed line graphs of the various voltages for the sensors in the car.

It seems like something that would be incredibly handy, but I have absolutely no idea what software it might have been. Could have been Mazda dealer/mechanic specific software, but it'd be nice to find something that would show me the voltage outputs across the various sensors for debugging purposes.

Anyone know of something like this?

I’d like to see this. I’ve been chasing gremlins since day one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SomeGuy]

I've been just doing a bunch of clean up to the car, and one of the issues I've had is around low voltage through everything. I generally think it's a grounding issue, and I'll be doing some more things here soon to clean all of that up.

However, when I was at a Mazda dealership recently to have some of this diagnosed (when I couldn't solve the issues after the car sat in my father-in-laws garage for too long), on his laptop he had some software that showed line graphs of the various voltages for the sensors in the car.

It seems like something that would be incredibly handy, but I have absolutely no idea what software it might have been. Could have been Mazda dealer/mechanic specific software, but it'd be nice to find something that would show me the voltage outputs across the various sensors for debugging purposes.

Anyone know of something like this?

Just need a high quality scan tool with graphing.

[Polish_Eagle]

Mazda VCM2 with their IDS software. I have a high quality clone that I've been using for a while and it definitely is a helpful unit to have.

[shift8]

Just need a high quality scan tool with graphing.I guess just something like Torque Pro and an ODB2 adapter you mean? (for example)
Mazda VCM2 with their IDS software. I have a high quality clone that I've been using for a while and it definitely is a helpful unit to have.Ah cool! Honestly half of what was bothering me was just knowing the name :)

[SomeGuy]

I guess just something like Torque Pro and an ODB2 adapter you mean? (for example) Ah cool! Honestly half of what was bothering me was just knowing the name :)

Torque won't scan all modules but might be a start.

Interestingly VCM2 is still also used by Ford products as well. The clones are ~$100-200. I have the equivalent for my Toyota/Lexus (Mini VCI + TechStream).

[shift8]

Torque won't scan all modules but might be a start.

Interestingly VCM2 is still also used by Ford products as well. The clones are ~$100-200. I have the equivalent for my Toyota/Lexus (Mini VCI + TechStream).Yea I noticed that too. Knew torque wouldn't get everything but better than nothing. The VCM2 clones look pretty interesting. Might have to splurge if I end up having my engine built...

[shift8]

Ok so I'm in the process of starting an engine build (pending), with the purposes of moving towards track car/occasional driver (I have 2 daily cars for wife and I).

Likely going K1 rods and Wiseco pistons (9.5:1 compression, no change there from stock). I'm targeting OTA so being careful of what PIPs I'm taking on. Purpose of build is for reliability, fix cyl 3 compression issues, and will effectively "detune" what the engine is capable of. Target under 300 hp.

Part of the build is considering what to do about the clutch and flywheel. Is going to a lighter flywheel worth it? What do I have to worry about with on the MS3 platform when I do that? Does shifting get weird? I'll likely be driving to the track for the first season before I flip over to trailering in a year or two.

Any other tips around engine builds, things to worry about now, parts to swap now?

As I said, this isn't a max HP approach, but rather a consistent high RPM in a track setting approach. OTA is the current target so changes need to be carefully thought here.

Depending on condition of my k04 I may run that a bit longer, and just worry about how I tune it to keep temps to a reasonable value as much as possible.

Eventually I may consider the Damond Ford intake swap (better air distribution) and better exhaust manifold to get the hot air away from the engine faster. Those require PIPs so will be (maybe) done after a couple seasons of running and seeing where I land. Based on research I believe a lot of the cyl 3 issues has to do with uneven air distribution at the intake and exhaust. Some have said the balance shaft could play a part. Plan to do BSD and balance everything else.

Was originally going to try and sell the MS3, but between the low value here, it being a paid off car for several years, enjoying the platform, and the cost of Miatas and the like right now, figured I'd just go the forged internal approach, for better or worse.

Experience and info welcome :)

[trance|ghost]

Who do I keep spotting in waterloo with the black gen2 white steelies red mudflaps and a Cobb sticker on front bumper ?

I see stock exhaust tips but your car sounds so good and I want to know the setup

[shift8]

Who do I keep spotting in waterloo with the black gen2 white steelies red mudflaps and a Cobb sticker on front bumper ?

I see stock exhaust tips but your car sounds so good and I want to know the setupMaybe downpipe and stock exhaust or a race pipe?

Inquiring minds wish to know!

[pwdunmore]

Ok so I'm in the process of starting an engine build (pending), with the purposes of moving towards track car/occasional driver (I have 2 daily cars for wife and I).

Likely going K1 rods and Wiseco pistons (9.5:1 compression, no change there from stock). I'm targeting OTA so being careful of what PIPs I'm taking on. Purpose of build is for reliability, fix cyl 3 compression issues, and will effectively "detune" what the engine is capable of. Target under 300 hp.

Part of the build is considering what to do about the clutch and flywheel. Is going to a lighter flywheel worth it? What do I have to worry about with on the MS3 platform when I do that? Does shifting get weird? I'll likely be driving to the track for the first season before I flip over to trailering in a year or two.

Any other tips around engine builds, things to worry about now, parts to swap now?

As I said, this isn't a max HP approach, but rather a consistent high RPM in a track setting approach. OTA is the current target so changes need to be carefully thought here.

Depending on condition of my k04 I may run that a bit longer, and just worry about how I tune it to keep temps to a reasonable value as much as possible.

Eventually I may consider the Damond Ford intake swap (better air distribution) and better exhaust manifold to get the hot air away from the engine faster. Those require PIPs so will be (maybe) done after a couple seasons of running and seeing where I land. Based on research I believe a lot of the cyl 3 issues has to do with uneven air distribution at the intake and exhaust. Some have said the balance shaft could play a part. Plan to do BSD and balance everything else.

Was originally going to try and sell the MS3, but between the low value here, it being a paid off car for several years, enjoying the platform, and the cost of Miatas and the like right now, figured I'd just go the forged internal approach, for better or worse.

Experience and info welcome :)

I would go for some 4032 alloy pistons instead of the 2618. http://www.speedperf6rmanc3.com/products/mahle-4032-powerpak-piston-87-5mm-std-bore-w-210-h13-wall-pin-for-mazda-mzr-disi.html

They are can take well above the power level you plan to be at and they will wear a lot better. With upgraded rods and pistons you can go with stock everything else minus the balance shaft and be well in the safe zone. I was planning to do a similar build that would be good for around 450hp once I get the block out of the MS6 I am parting out.

Upgraded 4032 Pistons + Upgraded Rods + Stock bearings + Stock bolts

I would get a South Bend Clutch. My Cp-e Stage 1 is very touchy and will be swapped out once it's done.

A turbo will make the build complete but add cost. At 300hp the K04 is a flamthrower and is gonna wear out sooner than a BNR S2 or S3.

Manifolds are not needed and are expensive but they will help with the better AFR's per cylinder... not gonna deny that. I would spend the money on the intake manifold before the exhaust. Do not get a cheap exhaust manifold... save up for a good one. Cheap ones crack over time... and you pay more over time lol... shift8 lots of edits

[shift8]

I would go for some 4032 alloy pistons instead of the 2618. http://www.speedperf6rmanc3.com/products/mahle-4032-powerpak-piston-87-5mm-std-bore-w-210-h13-wall-pin-for-mazda-mzr-disi.html

They are can take well above the power level you plan to be at and they will wear a lot better. With upgraded rods and pistons you can go with stock everything else minus the balance shaft and be well in the safe zone. I was planning to do a similar build that would be good for around 450hp once I get the block out of the MS6 I am parting out.

Upgraded 4032 Pistons + Upgraded Rods + Stock bearings + Stock bolts

I would get a South Bend Clutch. My Cp-e Stage 1 is very touchy and will be swapped out once it's done.

A turbo will make the build complete but add up quickly will only be needed if you want north of 300HP.

Manifolds are not needed and are expensive but they will help with the better AFR's per cylinder... not gonna deny that.

Thanks for the info. We weren't ordering pistons until after the block was sent to the machine shop so we knew if we needed 87.5mm or 88mm, so I still have time to change. I'm not tied to any particular brand.

I think we're going to replace the bearings anyways since we're already there. A bit of future proofing in case what I run the car in requires a bit more tune.

Turbo I'm hoping to not need to replace (especially as it'll cost PIPs and be another $1000...). Manifolds we'll see about after I do some runs and get some temp data. That's not an immediate need.

Thanks for the tip on the clutch. I'll do some more looking around. I have seen Southbend mentioned several times in various forums so seems worth a look.

[shift8]

I would go for some 4032 alloy pistons instead of the 2618. http://www.speedperf6rmanc3.com/products/mahle-4032-powerpak-piston-87-5mm-std-bore-w-210-h13-wall-pin-for-mazda-mzr-disi.html

They are can take well above the power level you plan to be at and they will wear a lot better. With upgraded rods and pistons you can go with stock everything else minus the balance shaft and be well in the safe zone. I was planning to do a similar build that would be good for around 450hp once I get the block out of the MS6 I am parting out.

Upgraded 4032 Pistons + Upgraded Rods + Stock bearings + Stock bolts

Are you sure about the 4032 vs 2618 alloy? Wiseco says the 4032 is weaker than the 2618, and 2618 is better designed for nitrous or boost applications.


http://www.wiseco.com/Automotive/Pistons.aspx

[MajesticBlueNTO]

Ok so I'm in the process of starting an engine build (pending), with the purposes of moving towards track car/occasional driver (I have 2 daily cars for wife and I).

Likely going K1 rods and Wiseco pistons (9.5:1 compression, no change there from stock). I'm targeting OTA so being careful of what PIPs I'm taking on. Purpose of build is for reliability, fix cyl 3 compression issues, and will effectively "detune" what the engine is capable of. Target under 300 hp.

If you're targeting OTA, then you should look into using the Dyno Plot option to classify your car to avoid taking the PIP hit for certain mods.



Part of the build is considering what to do about the clutch and flywheel. Is going to a lighter flywheel worth it? What do I have to worry about with on the MS3 platform when I do that? Does shifting get weird? I'll likely be driving to the track for the first season before I flip over to trailering in a year or two.

Can't comment on the single-mass/lighter flywheel as I have not driven an MS3 with a lightened SMFW on the track.

A grabbier clutch, however, I have driven with a OEM dual-mass flywheel (DMFW). With a higher tq capacity clutch, you'll need to have some finesse during heel-toe downshifts to not buck and throw off the weight transfer/balance.




Any other tips around engine builds, things to worry about now, parts to swap now?

As I said, this isn't a max HP approach, but rather a consistent high RPM in a track setting approach. OTA is the current target so changes need to be carefully thought here.

You'll need a Power Steering cooler if you plan to do Mosport GP (big track). With high RPM turns, you will cook a Gen1 power steering pump with the stock power steering "cooler".

Also, look into an auxiliary oil cooler, in addition to the stock oil cooler, if you plan to do Mosport GP all out for more than 4-5 laps at a time.



Depending on condition of my k04 I may run that a bit longer, and just worry about how I tune it to keep temps to a reasonable value as much as possible.
At the track, the K04 is ideal for the gearing of the MS3, otherwise, exit acceleration out of low speed corners will/could be hampered. The GTX2867 that I have is close to the K04 but it is still 500 rpm behind the K04 in build up (K04 will spool 500 rpm earlier)



Eventually I may consider the Damond Ford intake swap (better air distribution) and better exhaust manifold to get the hot air away from the engine faster. Those require PIPs so will be (maybe) done after a couple seasons of running and seeing where I land. Based on research I believe a lot of the cyl 3 issues has to do with uneven air distribution at the intake and exhaust. Some have said the balance shaft could play a part. Plan to do BSD and balance everything else.

Even with the balance shaft removed, the inline 4 will still have 2nd order vibrations that you will not be able to cancel out even with an engine balance.

The only benefit with a BSD is that you can then run an oil baffle in the oil pan. An oil baffle would be beneficial for high G corners.



Was originally going to try and sell the MS3, but between the low value here, it being a paid off car for several years, enjoying the platform, and the cost of Miatas and the like right now, figured I'd just go the forged internal approach, for better or worse.

Experience and info welcome :)

Other recommendation is to run a good oil like Motul 300V (5w40) for the track days. 300V is expensive, but so is another engine, and 300V is shear stable at high temperatures.

[shift8]

If you're targeting OTA, then you should look into using the Dyno Plot option to classify your car to avoid taking the PIP hit for certain mods.



Can't comment on the single-mass/lighter flywheel as I have not driven an MS3 with a lightened SMFW on the track.

A grabbier clutch, however, I have driven with a OEM dual-mass flywheel (DMFW). With a higher tq capacity clutch, you'll need to have some finesse during heel-toe downshifts to not buck and throw off the weight transfer/balance.



You'll need a Power Steering cooler if you plan to do Mosport GP (big track). With high RPM turns, you will cook a Gen1 power steering pump with the stock power steering "cooler".

Also, look into an auxiliary oil cooler, in addition to the stock oil cooler, if you plan to do Mosport GP all out for more than 4-5 laps at a time.


At the track, the K04 is ideal for the gearing of the MS3, otherwise, exit acceleration out of low speed corners will/could be hampered. The GTX2867 that I have is close to the K04 but it is still 500 rpm behind the K04 in build up (K04 will spool 500 rpm earlier)



Even with the balance shaft removed, the inline 4 will still have 2nd order vibrations that you will not be able to cancel out even with an engine balance.

The only benefit with a BSD is that you can then run an oil baffle in the oil pan. An oil baffle would be beneficial for high G corners.



Other recommendation is to run a good oil like Motul 300V (5w40) for the track days. 300V is expensive, but so is another engine, and 300V is shear stable at high temperatures.Awesome thanks for all the info here, that's incredibly valuable. I've seen some of your other posts around brakes as well which will be useful going forward.

I'll likely just ignore the lighter flywheel for now and look more into spending in areas to keep temps lower. That was kind of my instinct anyways but thought I'd ask for any experience.

[pwdunmore]

Are you sure about the 4032 vs 2618 alloy? Wiseco says the 4032 is weaker than the 2618, and 2618 is better designed for nitrous or boost applications.


http://www.wiseco.com/Automotive/Pistons.aspx

If you were doing a something for north of 450hp I would go to the 2618 but a better designed 4032 will be more reliable long term.

All builds are different and since you don't plan to go Aux fueling + big turbo the 4032 will be fine.
It's what I would have done but the 4032 pistons were not out when I did the first engine build.

[SomeGuy]

I ran the Southbend Stage 3 Daily...I've also briefly driven DLYDRVN 's ACT 6 puck...plus of course a couple stock ones. I'd say mildly lighter single mass is the way to go for a variety of driving...something in the 18-22lb range is probably ideal. I don't think I'd enjoy one that's really light (sub 15lbs).

Also, if doing it again I would go puck design over full face...the engagement was a concern but DLYDRVN's 6 puck was easier and lighter than my Southbend was.

[MajesticBlueNTO]

Awesome thanks for all the info here, that's incredibly valuable. I've seen some of your other posts around brakes as well which will be useful going forward.

I'll likely just ignore the lighter flywheel for now and look more into spending in areas to keep temps lower. That was kind of my instinct anyways but thought I'd ask for any experience.

If you're changing your clutch, you technically should change the flywheel.

I sent you my part list in PM, a few comments with that setup:

* Koyo Rad will limit your ability to go FMIC as it is thicker than the stock/oem rad and pushes everything back 1/4" or so
* <= 300 whp, the stock oil cooler should be ok with the track. Prior to the build, I ran the stock oil cooler with no oil temp gauges and no fks were given (and I was around 280-290 whp then).

I noticed that JBR released an oil cooler kit for the MS3, http://edgeautosport.com/jbr-oil-cooler-kit-mazda-3-2004-2013-mazdaspeed-3-2007-2013/, which also says that a FMIC may not work with it.

And, to be honest, a FMIC has very little benefit over an upgraded TMIC at the track, especially once moving at speed. FMIC adds plumbing that will need to have boost "fill up" between shifts and after getting off the throttle, so cases for more perceptible lag.

going bigger than a K04, you'll have to keep that in mind too.

[MajesticBlueNTO]

north of 450 whp, the MS3 won't be competitive at OTA. You're looking at SGT1 based on Dyno Plot, or Mod3 based on PIPs that you'll need to support a "driveable" 450 whp.

at that point you're looking at a cage (at least), harness, HNR, racing suit, fire suppression....and at that point, there are better track cars (and faster stock ones) for the money.

[shift8]

If you're changing your clutch, you technically should change the flywheel.

I sent you my part list in PM, a few comments with that setup:

* Koyo Rad will limit your ability to go FMIC as it is thicker than the stock/oem rad and pushes everything back 1/4" or so
* <= 300 whp, the stock oil cooler should be ok with the track. Prior to the build, I ran the stock oil cooler with no oil temp gauges and no fks were given (and I was around 280-290 whp then).

I noticed that JBR released an oil cooler kit for the MS3, http://edgeautosport.com/jbr-oil-cooler-kit-mazda-3-2004-2013-mazdaspeed-3-2007-2013/, which also says that a FMIC may not work with it.

And, to be honest, a FMIC has very little benefit over an upgraded TMIC at the track, especially once moving at speed. FMIC adds plumbing that will need to have boost "fill up" between shifts and after getting off the throttle, so cases for more perceptible lag.

going bigger than a K04, you'll have to keep that in mind too.

Yea I have a CPe TMIC and had mostly planned to run that unless I found a need to change.

Noticed that Damond has a power steering intercooler and the JBR oil cooler. Was planning to go spin on conversion in order to add the sandwich plate and get oil temp and pressure gauges. Looks like necessary for JBR oil intercooler too.

Working on building my way up the stack and trying not to go crazy all at once. The closer I can stay to stock while keeping the engine safe is my current goal. I can always add more toys later on... :)

Next main consideration is getting brakes setup as well. There seems to be a fair amount of info in that area though so should be simple enough just doing the research.

And yes, I noticed your part list and figured it might come in handy :)

[shift8]

north of 450 whp, the MS3 won't be competitive at OTA. You're looking at SGT1 based on Dyno Plot, or Mod3 based on PIPs that you'll need to support a "driveable" 450 whp.

at that point you're looking at a cage (at least), harness, HNR, racing suit, fire suppression....and at that point, there are better track cars (and faster stock ones) for the money.

That makes a lot of sense. My plan is to try and stay in the GT1 or SGT3 classes and no higher. Right now I'm barely into SGT3 so with a dyno plot I can hopefully tune up or down between those classes.

You take a lot of PIPs just adding an AP. 3 for the AP initially (free 1 point included for upgraded HPFP), then another 3 if the ECU controls boost pressure.

It looks like forged rods and pistons provide 0 PIP as long as you don't change the compression ratio.

Also taking 4+2 PIP for my Bilstein B12 (static) suspension unfortunately. I'll likely go back to a coilover setup after a year of running and understanding how the car feels and handles and adjust from there.

Any suggestions on a reasonable class to shoot for? It looks like GT1 or SGT3 should be reasonable based on what cars sit in those classes at stock setups.

[MajesticBlueNTO]

Yea I have a CPe TMIC and had mostly planned to run that unless I found a need to change.

Noticed that Damond has a power steering intercooler and the JBR oil cooler. Was planning to go spin on conversion in order to add the sandwich plate and get oil temp and pressure gauges. Looks like necessary for JBR oil intercooler too.

Working on building my way up the stack and trying not to go crazy all at once. The closer I can stay to stock while keeping the engine safe is my current goal. I can always add more toys later on... :)

Next main consideration is getting brakes setup as well. There seems to be a fair amount of info in that area though so should be simple enough just doing the research.

And yes, I noticed your part list and figured it might come in handy :)

The JBR Oil Cooler Kit appears to use a sandwich plate that doesn't have a thermostat...for the track, that's ok as the oil will heat up fast. For the price, it's a decent deal. I don't know about JBR quality now though as I haven't paid any attention to the latest with JBR and only remember the sht slinging on Facebook a couple years ago.

The JBR Oil Cooler Kit will also allow you to run gauges as it has the bungs for the gauge units.

I have the Damond power steering cooler kit. Well put together and a PS pump saver at GP.

Brakes and tires would be your bang for buck mods. The stickier the tires the better. Time isn't made up in a straight line but, rather, how much speed you can carry through corners and that's dependent on how much Gs your tires can handle. You could have a 450 hp car but with shit tires, it can be slower than a 300 whp car around a track.

Bridgestone RE71Rs - street tires with near R compound level grip (perhaps more grip than R compounds from 2011)

[shift8]

The JBR Oil Cooler Kit appears to use a sandwich plate that doesn't have a thermostat...for the track, that's ok as the oil will heat up fast. For the price, it's a decent deal. I don't know about JBR quality now though as I haven't paid any attention to the latest with JBR and only remember the sht slinging on Facebook a couple years ago.

The JBR Oil Cooler Kit will also allow you to run gauges as it has the bungs for the gauge units.

I have the Damond power steering cooler kit. Well put together and a PS pump saver at GP.

Brakes and tires would be your bang for buck mods. The stickier the tires the better. Time isn't made up in a straight line but, rather, how much speed you can carry through corners and that's dependent on how much Gs your tires can handle. You could have a 450 hp car but with shit tires, it can be slower than a 300 whp car around a track.

Bridgestone RE71Rs - street tires with near R compound level grip (perhaps more grip than R compounds from 2011)

I currently have Enkei 17x9 +40 (5mm spacer unfortunately for clearance but I got ones with extended hubs that match the bore size so they are almost acting like thick centering rings). ARP extended studs and open ended steel muteki lugs.

Have Continental ExtremeContact Sport tires now which I haven't gotten more than 250km on. I'll run those for a season an see where that gets me. I originally had RE71 rubber when I got the car. I liked them enough and were predictable. Issue I had was they sucked in the wet.

Overall I'll be lucky if I'm able to run more than 2 or 3 sessions a year until the kids get a bit older.

Thanks again for all the info. Much appreciated.

[MajesticBlueNTO]

That makes a lot of sense. My plan is to try and stay in the GT1 or SGT3 classes and no higher. Right now I'm barely into SGT3 so with a dyno plot I can hopefully tune up or down between those classes.

You take a lot of PIPs just adding an AP. 3 for the AP initially (free 1 point included for upgraded HPFP), then another 3 if the ECU controls boost pressure.

It looks like forged rods and pistons provide 0 PIP as long as you don't change the compression ratio.

Also taking 4+2 PIP for my Bilstein B12 (static) suspension unfortunately. I'll likely go back to a coilover setup after a year of running and understanding how the car feels and handles and adjust from there.

Any suggestions on a reasonable class to shoot for? It looks like GT1 or SGT3 should be reasonable based on what cars sit in those classes at stock setups.take a look at the OTA results from this year and years past.

https://time-attack.ca/results/

GT1 you have to contend with Carsten in his prepped M3.

SGT3, you just pray a Vette doesn't show up.

GT2 is probably where the MS3 would have a chance to be competitive.

MOD3 or higher is where the MS3 stands a chance to make top 3, sometimes just by showing up :)

[MajesticBlueNTO]

I currently have Enkei 17x9 +40 (5mm spacer unfortunately for clearance but I got ones with extended hubs that match the bore size so they are almost acting like thick centering rings). ARP extended studs and open ended steel muteki lugs.

Have Continental ExtremeContact Sport tires now which I haven't gotten more than 250km on. I'll run those for a season an see where that gets me. I originally had RE71 rubber when I got the car. I liked them enough and were predictable. Issue I had was they sucked in the wet.

Overall I'll be lucky if I'm able to run more than 2 or 3 sessions a year until the kids get a bit older.

Thanks again for all the info. Much appreciated.

sell the Contis and put the money towards RE71R or something as sticky as the RE71R.

the Contis are barely better than the PSS and get trounced by the PSS replacement PS4 in the dry. Unless you plan on going to wet track days (where it pretty much equalled the PS4 in the Tire Rack test), you will hate the Contis at the track.

Granted I don't know your level of experience at the track so perhaps the Contis are better suited for less experience as the ceiling will be lower on the Contis (the speed you can get in trouble with will be lower and a street tire will tend to sing earlier to let you know when it is approaching its limit)

[shift8]

sell the Contis and put the money towards RE71R or something as sticky as the RE71R.

the Contis are barely better than the PSS and get trounced by the PSS replacement PS4 in the dry. Unless you plan on going to wet track days (where it pretty much equalled the PS4 in the Tire Rack test), you will hate the Contis at the track.

Granted I don't know your level of experience at the track so perhaps the Contis are better suited for less experience as the ceiling will be lower on the Contis (the speed you can get in trouble with will be lower and a street tire will tend to sing earlier to let you know when it is approaching its limit)Yea all my experience is in the sim not real life so I pretty much expect this year to be a throw away /learning year. My hope is to finish at least one place above last place :)

When I started the build I expected to be daily with maybe a day or two of track time a year. Things changed for us and the MS3 was freed up as a dedicated track car, so I basically wasted a couple of decisions.

The reason for the Conti was a PSS replacement that was good in the wet. The big difference in GSM between these and PSS was that the Conti were more predictable where they would fall off vs PSS being great until they weren't.

If I could find someone to switch out I would. Maybe still worth a look to see if someone needed a set of 245/45R17 tires for daily use. I took them out a couple times on some twisty roads around here and really liked them. Could see maybe where they fall off on track though.

[shift8]

Maybe I should have started a "Prep for OTA" thread...

[rzapata]

Hey guys, anybody know who’s speed3 this was or if the person was a member before?

http://www.autotrader.ca/a/Mazda/Mazdaspeed3/Vaughan/Ontario/5_36609164_20111118092312231/?mnclk=1&showVs=1


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[Mazdy]

Hey guys, anybody know who’s speed3 this was or if the person was a member before?

http://www.autotrader.ca/a/Mazda/Mazdaspeed3/Vaughan/Ontario/5_36609164_20111118092312231/?mnclk=1&showVs=1


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saw what happen ..and glad your ok

I guess you still wanna stick on the speed huh

[rzapata]

saw what happen ..and glad your ok

I guess you still wanna stick on the speed huh

Thanks man... Yeah, it wasn’t time to let go of the car yet and I just want to get a decent one, even if used.

Saw a stock gen 2 being sold by a member but it got sold few days after the accident...


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[shift8]

Is there a recommended place to order Garrett turbos for the MS3 platform? I'm interested in a GTX28, but not sure best places to source (other than the usual online suspects + cross border fees/duties/etc)

[ricola]

Is there a recommended place to order Garrett turbos for the MS3 platform? I'm interested in a GTX28, but not sure best places to source (other than the usual online suspects + cross border fees/duties/etc)

You could talk to nextmod or jrponline. They both stock Garrett I believe


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[SomeGuy]

Is there a recommended place to order Garrett turbos for the MS3 platform? I'm interested in a GTX28, but not sure best places to source (other than the usual online suspects + cross border fees/duties/etc)

Edge is still probably one of the best choices...

[shift8]

Edge is still probably one of the best choices...Yea I just ordered from there. Likely everyone is just ordering from there and adding 5% anyways lol

[MikeTheCheek]

Is there a recommended place to order Garrett turbos for the MS3 platform? I'm interested in a GTX28, but not sure best places to source (other than the usual online suspects + cross border fees/duties/etc)

You could try giving Touge Tuning a call

[shift8]

Thanks for the info folks! I didn't even think of Stratefied at first. I'm probably going to go with them, because the prices are pretty much in line with everyone else, and it includes a tune so that I can at least get the car started somewhat safely. I'll be pretty much driving right over to a dyno for a professional tune. Plus I need a 3" intake as well, and I can get everything shipped in a single package.

[rzapata]

Sup fellas. Anybody selling a GrimmSpeed 3 port EBCS?


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[pwdunmore]

Nananananana boost leak nananananana boost leak.... boost leak... boost leak... booooooost leak... ohhh and a fuel leak around an injector O-ring

Woot modified cars...

/rant

[ricola]

Nananananana boost leak nananananana boost leak.... boost leak... boost leak... booooooost leak... ohhh and a fuel leak around an injector O-ring

Woot modified cars...

/rant

Story of my life for the past couple years. [emoji8]


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[pwdunmore]

Anyone down for a tims meet up? Just got my MS6 back on the road with a month of summer left lol...

[shift8]

Would love to but I'm diagnosing a clunk on initial launch and decel. Looking like maybe a drive shaft thing...

Anyone down for a tims meet up? Just got my MS6 back on the road with a month of summer left lol...

[pwdunmore]

Would love to but I'm diagnosing a clunk on initial launch and decel. Looking like maybe a drive shaft thing...

Want help diagnosing? I need to drive my MS6 to get enough kms to do a e-test.

[shift8]

Want help diagnosing? I need to drive my MS6 to get enough kms to do a e-test.Sure :) I'm near Alliston (south of Barrie). We do have a Tim's too lol. I could obtain some beersmif necessary.

I think it's the drive shaft but need to look at the sway bar end links and some other things just in case.

Msg me if you're interested and I'll send you my cell number to coordinate.

[pwdunmore]

Sure :) I'm near Alliston (south of Barrie). We do have a Tim's too lol. I could obtain some beersmif necessary.

I think it's the drive shaft but need to look at the sway bar end links and some other things just in case.

Msg me if you're interested and I'll send you my cell number to coordinate.

Sent you a PM, gonna try to next week if anyone else wants to meet up.

[shift8]

Sent you a PM, gonna try to next week if anyone else wants to meet up.Let me know when. Car issues seem to be solved so think I'm good for meeting up somewhere. How about the week of August 6th? Maybe a good week for the Thursday night meet in Vaughn area.

CC S.F.W.

[pwdunmore]

Anyone who has had CEL P0421 with a Catted downpipe know how to fix it?

I was going to replace the Catt and the O2 sensor but they are both expensive pieces.
If I do one before the other I want to take an educated guess if even possible...

I have a ATP catted downpipe on the car and this is the first time this have come up.

[shift8]

Delete the code with your AP :)

[TheMAN]

if the code comes on, it's usually accurate... cat is bad
aftermarket cats are made with inferior materials and usually last 2 years at best, so don't dismiss that

[shift8]

Running frequently out of stochiometric can cause the cats to burn up more quickly too. I assume this is an aftermarket high flow cat right?

I only ask due to the comment about cost. If for some reason you just need a stock one I have one for you for free.


if the code comes on, it's usually accurate... cat is bad
aftermarket cats are made with inferior materials and usually last 2 years at best, so don't dismiss that

[pwdunmore]

I have the EGR as my "not ready" for emissions so deleting that code would make my cat not ready.

I reset the codes and they didn't come back and all my e-test stufff is shown as ready.
The cat is probably on its way out or my car has gremlins.

It could be gremlins because I had other stuff happen and never come back lmao...
The cat has super low kms but a lot of WOT pulls on it. Maybe 100 tops lol... yay...

[shift8]

I have the EGR as my "not ready" for emissions so deleting that code would make my cat not ready.

I reset the codes and they didn't come back and all my e-test stufff is shown as ready.
The cat is probably on its way out or my car has gremlins.

It could be gremlins because I had other stuff happen and never come back lmao...
The cat has super low kms but a lot of WOT pulls on it. Maybe 100 tops lol... yay...Worth cleaning up all your grounding sources. I was getting similar electrical code triggers due to low voltages. Cleaning up the grounding points has helped a lot. I got one for the throttle pot in the car and some other weird ones.

[pwdunmore]

Passed emissions. Time to start logging on the CS manifold and throttle body :)

I already saw a huge drop in WGDC, hitting 26psi with @ 50%.

[shift8]

Passed emissions. Time to start logging on the CS manifold and throttle body :)

I already saw a huge drop in WGDC, hitting 26psi with @ 50%.What was the trick to passing? :)

[pwdunmore]

What was the trick to passing? :)

I believe one of the CEL's was turned off in my tune for the Cat so we had to turn them all back on except the ones for the EGR and VTCS.
The CEL from the catalytic converter came up at the same time as a low voltage for the fan circuit so that was likely from a bad ground which I tightened down, as it was clean.

No tricks involved, other than having the EGR system "not ready" but we are allowed that. The car should have passed a long time ago so I am happy I solved the stupid computer/electrical issues.

[shift8]

I believe one of the CEL's was turned off in my tune for the Cat so we had to turn them all back on except the ones for the EGR and VTCS.
The CEL from the catalytic converter came up at the same time as a low voltage for the fan circuit so that was likely from a bad ground which I tightened down, as it was clean.

No tricks involved, other than having the EGR system "not ready" but we are allowed that. The car should have passed a long time ago so I am happy I solved the stupid computer/electrical issues.

Ah yes... the dreaded poor grounding issues. Our ECU I've learned is incredibly sensitive to poor grounding issues. With all my grounds cleaned up and tightended down I've have zero false CELs.

Glad to hear you're all sorted! I have the EGR delete as well. I don't have VTCS deleted, but have cats deleted, so we'll see if I can tune those out and still pass.

[MajesticBlueNTO]

Ah yes... the dreaded poor grounding issues. Our ECU I've learned is incredibly sensitive to poor grounding issues. With all my grounds cleaned up and tightended down I've have zero false CELs.

Glad to hear you're all sorted! I have the EGR delete as well. I don't have VTCS deleted, but have cats deleted, so we'll see if I can tune those out and still pass.

guess it depends on the code(s) for the cats... the ms3 had codes P0137, P0140, P0421 suppressed and the catalyst readiness test became "ready"... the EGR was the only "not ready" for the ms3, and this is with a VTCS delete with those codes also suppressed

[shift8]

guess it depends on the code(s) for the cats... the ms3 had codes P0137, P0140, P0421 suppressed and the catalyst readiness test became "ready"... the EGR was the only "not ready" for the ms3, and this is with a VTCS delete with those codes also suppressed

Good to know! I haven't actually even bothered to attempt to suppress any codes, or look at the readiness checks. Looks easy enough :)

[shift8]

Anyone know what the bolt/screw size is for these clips? It's the one under the front bumper where the fender liners attach at the front.

It's not the same one as the undertray 10mm bolts as those are too big for this particular clip.

Car has been apart for a bit and I moved while I had stuff out so I'm missing some stuff in boxes and it's been a while since I took it apart :) https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180807/5242c31d696c479b30e8d004dbf158f8.jpg

[shift8]

Anyone know what the bolt/screw size is for these clips? It's the one under the front bumper where the fender liners attach at the front.

Nevermind, I found the clips online, and looks like it uses an M4.8 (#10) screw.

[pwdunmore]

Anyone have a gen2 valve cover for sale? I looked on kijiji and ebay but there is nothing currently.

Mine cracked by the bolt at the fill neck. It looked like I had a small leak so I wanted to tighten the bolt... and snap.
No idea how it happened since I was using a 1/4 ratchet... I guess I am strong.

I can buy a new one but wanted to test the waters first.

[SomeGuy]

Anyone have a gen2 valve cover for sale? I looked on kijiji and ebay but there is nothing currently.

Mine cracked by the bolt at the fill neck. It looked like I had a small leak so I wanted to tighten the bolt... and snap.
No idea how it happened since I was using a 1/4 ratchet... I guess I am strong.

I can buy a new one but wanted to test the waters first.


Yeah, because the torque spec on those bolts is 71-84 in-lb...so like 6ft-lbs...a 1/4 drive ratchet you can pretty easily do 20-30ft-lbs without even realizing it.

[shift8]

Yeah, because the torque spec on those bolts is 71-84 in-lb...so like 6ft-lbs...a 1/4 drive ratchet you can pretty easily do 20-30ft-lbs without even realizing it.Oh I forgot about that when I did mine. Yea basically hand tight then 1/4 to a 1/2 turn is pretty much all you need.

[pwdunmore]

Yeah, because the torque spec on those bolts is 71-84 in-lb...so like 6ft-lbs...a 1/4 drive ratchet you can pretty easily do 20-30ft-lbs without even realizing it.

I was gentle but yes I easily over did it... I am just happy I didn't break the bolt off but I goofed and paid the price...

New valve cover and gasket on the way, no used ones on the market and I want the improved flow for the PCV system.

[shift8]

I was gentle but yes I easily over did it... I am just happy I didn't break the bolt off but I goofed and paid the price...

New valve cover and gasket on the way, no used ones on the market and I want the improved flow for the PCV system.Yea I'll likely be looking st the gen2 cover st some point as well. I'll just do that over the winter along with installation of a vented catch can. Have one now but not vented. For now just have the speedperformance vented oil cap for the gen1 valve cover.

Gotta get some of that stuff cleaned up in the offseason.

[MajesticBlueNTO]

Yea I'll likely be looking st the gen2 cover st some point as well. I'll just do that over the winter along with installation of a vented catch can. Have one now but not vented. For now just have the speedperformance vented oil cap for the gen1 valve cover.

Gotta get some of that stuff cleaned up in the offseason.

do NOT run that vented oil cap for the Gen1 valve cover at the track. With no baffle under the spout, oil (not just oil vapour) will come pouring out of the filter. The repeated WOT at the track will just saturate the cap filter and the oil will just drip down the side of the motor and over the engine bay.

I was down about half a litre of oil after a 15 minute session at TMP (the one and only time I ran the vented oil cap at the track...i was just lucky that the oil didn't catch fire on the exhaust manifold)... at 24 psi and oem oil cap, I had no issues with the dipstick lifting/popping or anything so I didn't really need the vented oil cap.

A vented catch can, sure ... a vented oil cap, even with the gen2 valve cover, is a no no at the track as you absolutely do not want any oil spray going onto the exhaust manifold.

[shift8]

do NOT run that vented oil cap for the Gen1 valve cover at the track. With no baffle under the spout, oil (not just oil vapour) will come pouring out of the filter. The repeated WOT at the track will just saturate the cap filter and the oil will just drip down the side of the motor and over the engine bay.

I was down about half a litre of oil after a 15 minute session at TMP (the one and only time I ran the vented oil cap at the track...i was just lucky that the oil didn't catch fire on the exhaust manifold)... at 24 psi and oem oil cap, I had no issues with the dipstick lifting/popping or anything so I didn't really need the vented oil cap.

A vented catch can, sure ... a vented oil cap, even with the gen2 valve cover, is a no no at the track as you absolutely do not want any oil spray going onto the exhaust manifold.

Good to know. Yea, it's always been intended to be a temporary setup but looking like I need to boost the priority of the vented catch can setup. Looking like I'll just switch back to the stock oil cap then :)

(I'm only running stock boost right now, and even then, I'm not even boosting as I'm still waiting for a proper tune. Only thing is some MAF calibration in the short term.)

[MajesticBlueNTO]

Good to know. Yea, it's always been intended to be a temporary setup but looking like I need to boost the priority of the vented catch can setup. Looking like I'll just switch back to the stock oil cap then :)

(I'm only running stock boost right now, and even then, I'm not even boosting as I'm still waiting for a proper tune. Only thing is some MAF calibration in the short term.)

with the stock oil cap, at stock boost, even with a conservative 20 psi on that 2871, the worst that'll happen is oil in the intercooler piping.... and that's far better than an engine fire.

tbh, the vented oil cap wasn't an issue on the street. the fact that WOT logs on the street didn't show any signs of oil dripping out the vented cap lulled me into a false sense of security to run the vented oil cap at the track. however, it's the constant WOT on-off-on-off for minutes on end that'll lead to the issue.

[shift8]

with the stock oil cap, at stock boost, even with a conservative 20 psi on that 2871, the worst that'll happen is oil in the intercooler piping.... and that's far better than an engine fire.

tbh, the vented oil cap wasn't an issue on the street. the fact that WOT logs on the street didn't show any signs of oil dripping out the vented cap lulled me into a false sense of security to run the vented oil cap at the track. however, it's the constant WOT on-off-on-off for minutes on end that'll lead to the issue.

Thanks for the feedback based on experience! You're right. Engine fires are not ideal.

[shift8]

Ok strange question :) anyone have suggestions on how best to remove the symtech coating from under the engine bay?

Car is not a daily and sits in the garage. Won't see any more winters. It's a track car now so not looking to make it show room but the 10 year old symtech just looks like caked on grease and dirt, so I'd like to make it a bit more presentable.

[MajesticBlueNTO]

Ok strange question :) anyone have suggestions on how best to remove the symtech coating from under the engine bay?

Car is not a daily and sits in the garage. Won't see any more winters. It's a track car now so not looking to make it show room but the 10 year old symtech just looks like caked on grease and dirt, so I'd like to make it a bit more presentable.rustproofing makes you faster

[shift8]

rustproofing makes you fasterBut I like the natural speed holes...

[breakfasteatre]

The speed section is a ghost town. Who is tracking their speed?

[shift8]

The speed section is a ghost town. Who is tracking their speed?I have Ian Law track school setup for Oct 6th. Hoping to get out first time Sept 18th evening at TMP. Plan is to track a bunch next year. Build took a bit longer than I wanted but it is what it is.

Tuning with Vince tonight.

[shift8]

The speed section is a ghost town. Who is tracking their speed?Also a ghost town because everyone parting out for Miatas :)

[breakfasteatre]

I have Ian Law track school setup for Oct 6th. Hoping to get out first time Sept 18th evening at TMP. Plan is to track a bunch next year. Build took a bit longer than I wanted but it is what it is.

Tuning with Vince tonight.

How much power are you expecting and what is your experience level at the track?

[shift8]

How much power are you expecting and what is your experience level at the track?

I expect the car will make somewhere in the 340-360ish whp range, but I'll know after tonight. For track, I plan to bring that back down closer to 300-320 whp.

No track experience. Autocross runs + autocross school, and 3 years of sim racing experience on iRacing (lolz amirite?). Hence the track school in October :)

PS: you own a Speed now, so you can look at the Speed forums again (I know what car you bought! :))

[rickscw]

The speed section is a ghost town. Who is tracking their speed?

I’m getting into it. Hitting Cayuga Monday weather permitting


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[pwdunmore]

Does anyone here have an extra BPV laying around? I have a feeling my Forge V2 BPV may be the thing causing my boost leak.

It would be a huge help as it would save me from buying one just to test my theory out.

[shift8]

Does anyone here have an extra BPV laying around? I have a feeling my Forge V2 BPV may be the thing causing my boost leak.

It would be a huge help as it would save me from buying one just to test my theory out.I have a stock one here you can come try out. Shoot me a msg.

[pwdunmore]

I have a stock one here you can come try out. Shoot me a msg.

I doubt the stocker will hold 24psi+, thanks though. I ordered a service kit for the Forge V2 which apparently gets a revised piston that has an O-ring on the bottom to seal better.

I am hoping this fixes the issue and it only costed me $17.

[shift8]

I doubt the stocker will hold 24psi+, thanks though. I ordered a service kit for the Forge V2 which apparently gets a revised piston that has an O-ring on the bottom to seal better.

I am hoping this fixes the issue and it only costed me $17.Ah gotcha, makes sense lol. I also have a forge v2 that is likely in need of service. What kit did you order?

[pwdunmore]

https://www.forgemotorsport.com/Forge_Motorsport_Service_Kit--product--792.html
Then you pick from the scroll down to - FMDVMAZ3S

I put the two shims in (already have the red spring installed) it seems to hold better but still leaks. When I inspected the piston it is pretty scored on the sides.

[shift8]

https://www.forgemotorsport.com/Forge_Motorsport_Service_Kit--product--792.html
Then you pick from the scroll down to - FMDVMAZ3S

I put the two shims in (already have the red spring installed) it seems to hold better but still leaks. When I inspected the piston it is pretty scored on the sides.Thanks boss!

[pwdunmore]

Thanks boss!

The revised piston is supposed to have an o-ring at the bottom, maybe your newer valve has this feature. Mine is from the Original run of the V2's.

[shift8]

The revised piston is supposed to have an o-ring at the bottom, maybe your newer valve has this feature. Mine is from the Original run of the V2's.I'll have to look. I bought this used a while ago so it's likely the same. Do you mean the O ring on the mounting bracket that mates with the IC aluminum housing?

[pwdunmore]

I'll have to look. I bought this used a while ago so it's likely the same. Do you mean the O ring on the mounting bracket that mates with the IC aluminum housing?

No, the piston itself has an o-ring on the bottom that stops it from cracking open under higher boost.

[shift8]

Ouch... that shipping!