Cleaning the Cobb SRI Filter

[-cj-]

Since I have two Cobb filters, I decided to buy the cleaning kit from Cobb. I followed the instructions and oiled my filter.

My question is, they warn you on the bottle not to over soak the filter. How do you know if you over did it? I imagine if the filter was dripping oil, I over did it... But I tried to get every "white" spot on the filter "blue" (oil covered), but now I'm wondering if there's too much or not enough. How do you know?? I don't want to suck up any of this oil onto my MAF sensor.

[Tokay444]

If you see any pooling in the corners or around the bottom rim, that would be a good indication there's a bit too much. Clean it up with a lint free cloth and wait few more hours to see if anymore has pooled.

[Tokay444]

If not, then slap it in and lay a couple strips like only 31 extra hp can allow.

[-cj-]

Hah... Thanks for the tips, I'll check the corners and see. Hopefully a "new" filter helps out my LTFTs....

[Fobio]

hey man...when I cleaned my Cobb filter, I decided to also get the AEM Dry Flow, so I didn't have to have down time. After that, I remembered that when I had the SVT, I over oiled before and ****ed my MAF...

so this time, I didn't bother reinstalling it since I got the AEM, but I still oiled it...just in case...

after oiling it tho, I let it sit to drain for 24 hrs...THEN I wrapped a clean rag around it for 1 week to soak up any extra oil.

[horto]

After how many thousand km's are you supposed to clean the Cobb filters? Or just eye it, when it's dirty... ?

[-cj-]

Thats a good idea Fobio... All of it. Unfortunately ive got two Cobb filters, so it's too late to swap to a dry filter for me. Esp now that I've invested in TWO Cobb filter cleaning kits lol. Im going to wrap it up just to be safe... Last thing I need is to damage the MAF.

Horto: If it's no longer blue, clean/replace it. The oil is blue, so if you're seeing white you are running with just the dry cotton.

[horto]

Good stuff. Mine is still blue. But I've got an AEM dryflow on standby for the spring!

[chan7]

Just wanted to add my :.02, but not sure if it will apply.

When I reoiled my K&N filter, I was paranoid about over oiling the filter as well. If in doubt, K&N had told me to do was leave it to dry in room temperature for 24-48 hours.

[Tokay444]

Stick your wife's hair dryer on high, inside for 6-12 hours. Done in half the time. :maybedodgybutmaybenot:

[chan7]

Stick your wife's hair dryer on high, inside for 6-12 hours. Done in half the time. :maybedodgybutmaybenot:

I was advise not to use a hair dryer but to let it naturally dry because the oil might go inside the filter and for sure cause a problem with the MAF. Correct me if I'm wrong

[Tokay444]

Your sarcasm detector is broken. Besides, everyone knows you put the hair dryer into the the filter to blow the oil outward.

[chan7]

Your sarcasm detector is broken. Besides, everyone knows you put the hair dryer into the the filter to blow the oil outward.

Lol

[-cj-]

I know everyone was just being sarcastic, but the real reason why you don't use a hair dryer is because the filter will ( might ) shrink.

I installed my re-oiled filter tonight after running a towel around the whole thing to ensure there was no oil build up. By the way, I think getting oil on the black silicon/rubber (the opening that attaches to the intake) might damage it because the directions tell you to avoid doing it. So anyone who does this, whether it really damages it or not, I suggest wiping it up ASAP before letting the filter naturally dry...

I did two things to the car today: Replaced the filter and replaced a clamp on my FMIC (The one off the turbo that goes to the hot pipe across the top of the engine) and now my LTFT's (and most of the time my STFTs) are hovering around 0-0.8. I doubt it was the filter, but hopefully I found the source of my trouble. Buying a used FMIC was the worst thing I ever did on my car...