Keyless entry problem - intermittent

[ZAX-3]

I looked through several pages of threads for similar problems but didn't find any that matched.

My keyless entry will work sometimes and then other times not work.

I've noticed that when it is not working, and I open my door (car off/keys out of ignition), the car makes the "ding ding ding" noise - same noise as it makes when you don't put your seatbelt on, but this dings indefinitely I think. Headlights aren't left on either.

I was just realizing as I wrote this that maybe something is wrong with the ignition "thingamajig" or other...because, if I'm not mistaken, typically the fob WILL NOT work if the key is still in the ignition, correct? Also, if I'm not mistaken, if the key is in the ignition and the door is opened it will "ding", correct?

So is my car "thinking" that there is still a key in the ignition sometimes even after I've taken the key out? And if so, what could cause this problem? ....OR am I even correct in this line of thinking?

[sas]

This theme is well covered in mazda forums.
I think it’s all what you should know.
http://www.coremazda.com/tsb/mazda3/09-032-06-key-reminder-keyless-entry-inoperative.pdf

[ZAX-3]

awesome! Thank you!!

Would this, by the way, have any thing at all to do with the car intermittently not starting? That may be another problem altogether, but just wondering...I'm a total car noob.

[sas]

As you can see there are no complains about start, even more, exists mod when this contact is simply disconnected.
http://www.ozmazdaclub.com/forums/3-323-how-tos/214-mazda-3-permanent-disable-key-reminder-beep.html
Your car is discovery for TSB lovers.
You can take a look on these TSBs.
http://www.coremazda.com/tsb/mazda3/01-018-07-no-start-frozen-relay.pdf
http://www.finishlineperformance.com/pdf/mazda3/bulletin/01-037-08-1960a.pdf
And third tsb is 05-012/08 ,cant find it quickly ,for auto transmission in P-range position.
Look, what is more applicable in your situation.

[tinman]

I was having the same problem on my 06 3 and came across this post a few weeks back. Unfortunately most of the links were gone since it was last posted back in 2011 and it was not conclusive. I have been searching for answer since then with no avail and decided to take it to TM to see if they can help with couple hundred $. The tech reported the "key slot assembly" not working and it will cost another $450 P & L to replace it. My warranty was long expired and their was no recall for this issue per TM service advisor. I didn't have that kind of $, bite the bullet, pay for the $120/hr diagnostic and left.
I e-mailed Mazda Canada trying to convience them it's a saftey issue and should be a recall. Argueing any part of ignition switch failure would result in no start, which Honda has a recall to replace the ignition switch on my Odyssey afew year back. But heard nothing so far after the 1st respond saying they are reviewing it.
Fast forward to last weekend, by luck & persistence I came across the attached link to the other forum, tried it and it have been working for a day already. I am so estatic & relief that the fix was so easy and saved me big $, and like to share it with all who have the same problem.

"http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2010-12-mazda-3-discussion/3719-key-removed-ignition-hear-beeps-doors-wont-lock-2.html"

Just want to add that the ignition lock cylinder must be seated all the way in while adding the "wedge" or shim on the above post. It seems to me a good old bad contact issue causing all these fuss.

Good luck!

[tinman]

The dilemma continued... the fix of wedging the key cylinder just lasted couple of days and the problem came back. After playing with it some more, I have a hunch that I was on the right path. When I pushed the key cylinder and I noticed that the electrical module to the left of the column was moving a little bit as well. Later I found out that’s actually the ignition switch.
After I popped it out (it was a lot simpler than I thought), opened it up, checking the contacts were dirty and somewhat worn out. After cleaning them up, applied fresh contact grease, put them back and it ever working since. Evidently it was the center aluminum contacts getting dirty and worn out that caused the problem. You can either replace it right out for $50, or try to clean it up if the contacts are still in useable condition. Either way, it’s an easy job for a DIYer.