PDA

View Full Version : Latest flash for a 2008 MS3



Stew69
01-21-2011, 12:51 PM
Can any tell me what the latest CPU flash is for a Mazdaspeed 3? I took it in for the service bulliten 01-022/08 to correct codes P2177/P2187. On the bulliten it says to reprogram with SW-L39SED000 but they put in SW-L39SEA000. 1 Day later I had the same codes come up again. It would be logical that the letter "D" in the program would be newer than the one with the letter "A". All Mazda says is I need to replace my fuel pump and o2 senser at the cost of $2000!!!!!! I asked the service guy if they put in the correct code and just said "I'm sure the tech did"...ERRRRR. I phoned other mazdas and they won't tell me anything without brining the car to them, and I'm sure they will want to charge me more for checking. :bang

Thanks Stephen

MPS
01-21-2011, 12:56 PM
2008 and no warranty ?

Stew69
01-21-2011, 12:59 PM
Ya , its a rebuild status :(

MPS
01-21-2011, 01:01 PM
that sux
try mazdaspeed forums for a used pump they sell for about $150
or ebay
and then have Jim @ street performance do the install its about $75
so its way less then $2000
and if your warranty is done stop going to dealer

Stew69
01-21-2011, 01:34 PM
Or can someone give me a number for a mazda tech that will actually help and give a real answer not just what they are told to say?

McGuyver_3
01-22-2011, 04:21 PM
how did you find out what software they put in it? and just because they programmed it with A instead of D doesn't mean anything. manufacturers have a strange way of doing things

WeatherB
01-22-2011, 04:28 PM
Any mods?

I did a quick google search for those codes and got this thread, it may help you. I didn't really read though it.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f293/p2177-p2187-p2097-p2195-65933/

Cosmo77
01-22-2011, 11:02 PM
There may still be a fault with your vehicle. That particular update was to make the parameters for setting the code wider so as to prevent "phantom codes"

Cosmo

Stew69
01-22-2011, 11:19 PM
I talked to a service rep yesterday that I could really talk to and found out the program they put in is correct. It's so nice to be able to talk to somone who gives you real answers. So next is to change the air/fuel (o2) sensor but it's $394!!! Ouch but it must be done. The car was really bad today. It would run ok sometimes, sputter somtimes and stalled a couple times. I'm in Vancouver and the closest place there is one is in Toronto, non in all of BC!!! Doe. No after maket either.

Stephen

MPS
01-22-2011, 11:28 PM
try this first


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gd640ImE9Ec

Stew69
01-22-2011, 11:36 PM
Thanks for that link, I will do that tomorrow. I was wanting to take off the intake to see if it has an air straightener in it. The last owner put a COBB intake in it.

Stew69
01-23-2011, 12:01 AM
I can't complain too much for some repairs as I only paid $14k for it with 30K km, OZ rims and cobb intake, tinted windows and in great shape. I hate driving other cars after driving the MS3, it soooo much fun to drive. Too bad is my wifes car.

Any opinion on if iridium plugs would make a differance? Not looking to spend a lot on making faster as it's fast already but I was wanting to check the plugs after this problem and if I have them out I might as well change them.

McGuyver_3
01-23-2011, 12:18 AM
the 2 codes that you have did a quick check on them on the net and they are lean codes. if you have a stock intake for the car put that in have the codes cleared by nappa or your own scanner etc etc and see if that makes a difference. Could also be your maff wires on the intake as they tend to stretch with engine movement

Stew69
01-23-2011, 12:47 AM
After cleaning the MAF I will change the O2 sensor. This what mazda said was wrong, seems to check out with the codes I'm getting and the problem happened pretty fast. I don't have the stock stuff.

McGuyver_3
01-23-2011, 12:58 AM
dont change the 02 yet it sounds to weird that right after a reflash your 02 goes bad. If i recal correctly though the cobb intakes would cause cels to come on every now and then. The mazda 6's no matter what intake you put on would throw the same codes. Came across alot of 6's with this code while searching google and a friend of mine who used to have a 6 had the same problem. Sounds to me like the parameters before your flash were more tolerable to what they are now. My money is on the intake as the dealer is somewhat confusing. Going from a fuel problem 2000$ to fix all the way to an 02 sensor. It doesnt make sense to me. This may be completely whack but i would suggest you try and find someone in your area who would lend you a stock intake for a week or 2 and see how that goes

Stew69
01-23-2011, 02:14 AM
I will give you the whole story. About a few weeks ago the car started to make a few jitters. It started to get worse and I started to look in to it. the codes were P2177, P2178,P2097,P2195. I was coming up with possible problems, MAF, O2 sensor,fuel pump, & PCM program. There was a service bulliten that described my problems. So I took it to mazda for a PCU flash. This was suppost to increase the power to the pump and speed them up. So it has been doing this before the flash. The next logical thing is to check the MAF, then the O2 sensor.

McGuyver_3
01-23-2011, 03:27 AM
DTC P2195 OXYGEN (A/F) SENSOR SIGNAL STUCK LEAN BANK 1 SENSOR 1
DTC P2097 post-catalyst O2 sensor reading too rich
DTC P2178 Ststem Too Rich Off Idle
DTC P2177 System Too Lean Off Idle

Your 02 sensor codes have not come back which again points to the intake as seen here on these threads
http://forum.mazda6club.com/3-0l-v6/176032-cels-p2177-p2179.html

http://forum.mazda6club.com/2-3l-i-4/162779-2-3l-engine-cel-p2177.html

Or this thread if you read through it states the purge valve
http://forums.beyond.ca/showthread/t-312818.html

here it turns out to be a high pressure fuel pump (this is probably the 2000$ repair the dealer is talking about)
http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=145729.0

not finding any results to 02 sensors here

Stew69
01-23-2011, 02:04 PM
I just cleaned the MAF and it was dirty, but no change. It seems to do the problem randomly. It can do it at idle, 2000rpm 6000rpm. Other times it's fine and has full power right to redline. I just remembered when the codes came up, it was about a month ago but the car wasn't jolting like it is now. Over the last couple weeks it has gotten bad. I don't think it's the COBB intake as we have about 10K km on it with no codes or problems.

Stew69
01-23-2011, 02:05 PM
Oh and I checked the purge valve last week and it seemed fine

Cosmo77
01-23-2011, 02:36 PM
I never even noticed that this is a MazdaSpeed3 at the top. If you are driving or accelerating at a light throttle, does it feel as if the car is surging at times?Does if feel like there is not enough power when you do give it?

Cosmo

Stew69
01-23-2011, 06:33 PM
Not really, it just looses power once in a while. I doesn't matter what speed or load for the most part. Although on the hwy I think it seems worse when you are cruising and then accelerate, but it's hard to say since it's so random. Today after I cleaned the MAF I punched it on the hwy on ramp and got to 150km/h with no hesitation but it did it many times on the short trip. At one point I was pulled over and I had the peddle mashed and the rpm was low and would go up and dpwn every second or two, then it came back to life as normal.

McGuyver_3
01-23-2011, 06:38 PM
Do you have any history as to how bad the car was hit and what was done on the repairs?

MPS
01-23-2011, 08:31 PM
is it choking when you give it gas ?
kinda like pop pop pop




Not really, it just looses power once in a while. I doesn't matter what speed or load for the most part. Although on the hwy I think it seems worse when you are cruising and then accelerate, but it's hard to say since it's so random. Today after I cleaned the MAF I punched it on the hwy on ramp and got to 150km/h with no hesitation but it did it many times on the short trip. At one point I was pulled over and I had the peddle mashed and the rpm was low and would go up and dpwn every second or two, then it came back to life as normal.

Stew69
01-23-2011, 11:49 PM
Rarely does it backfire, it just has no power. I can't say for sure as to what was done to the car but by what I can see the back left and the front right were hit. The back hatch wasn't removed, still has oem sealant. The frame has been straightend. There apears to be no damage to the engine. I had it checked out before I got it and they said it was good.

Cosmo77
01-24-2011, 06:14 PM
Sounds like a air/fuel ratio sensor going bad.

Stew69
01-27-2011, 01:16 AM
Well it did turn out to be the air/fuel o2 sensor. Car runs great again!!! Thanks everyone for your ideas.:headbang

sickmsp3
04-14-2012, 09:32 PM
Hey i seem to be having the same problem you had with your speed. car will just ramdomly loose power(pedal to the floor and no go) CEL P2187 and P2177. Cleaned the MAF sensor and looked for leaks and nothing, i hate that light on my dash. warranty is up and dont want to give the dealer any of my money if i can fix it myself. you mentioned taht it turne dout to be trge air/fuel o2 sensor, is that the first (before cat) or second one(afte cat)?

PLEASE HELP I CANT DRIVE ANOTHER DAY WITH THAT LIGHT!!!

Impressive
04-16-2012, 01:00 PM
Hey i seem to be having the same problem you had with your speed. car will just ramdomly loose power(pedal to the floor and no go) CEL P2187 and P2177. Cleaned the MAF sensor and looked for leaks and nothing, i hate that light on my dash. warranty is up and dont want to give the dealer any of my money if i can fix it myself. you mentioned taht it turne dout to be trge air/fuel o2 sensor, is that the first (before cat) or second one(afte cat)?

PLEASE HELP I CANT DRIVE ANOTHER DAY WITH THAT LIGHT!!!

Check your MAF wiring more thoroughly, but it could also be your A/F o2 sensor as mentioned earlier.
We'd probably be able to help you better if you translated that last sentence into comprehendible english for us.