Help. Broken shock mount. Dealership wants me to change whole shock absorber system.

[Tarique]

Hi,

I have a problem with my car, a Mazda 3 GS 2005 sedan, with the left rear side making a banging sound. I took it to the Mazda dealership. They told me that the problem was that the rear left shock mount was broken.

Here is the estimate they gave. They said a shock mount doesn't come individually, but along with a shock absorber. So, I'd have to get the shock absorber + shock mount on my left rear side replaced which would cost me 315$. Also, as i was getting my rear left side shock system replaced, I should get my rear right replaced other wise my car would be really unbalanced. so that's another 315$. And I'd need to spend another 120$ for tyre tuning after that. So that is a grand total of 750 for a broken shock mount. :bang

Is there a way i can get just the rear shock mount changed ? Can anyone recommend a garage where i could take my car for it? Or any other suggestion/advice?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

[Thrizzl3]

talk to Joe (FLIPDADY) for parts. See Jimmy at Street performance for installation (http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?17212-Street-Performance)

[chan7]

talk to Joe (FLIPDADY) for parts. See Jimmy at Street performance for installation (http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?17212-Street-Performance)

+1

[DumpInfo]

+2 :agree

[S.F.W.]

The dealership is providing you correct information on the mount not being sold separately from the shock. Regarding replacing both shocks at once, it does make some sense, but if the other shock is functioning properly, I don't see a need to replace both. No idea what the $120 tire tuning is though..

[swales]

I had the exact same problem about 1 month ago and it's true, you can only get the rear mount with the stock shock so your best bet is to try and find a used one. Not sure what stock is like now, but I checked every scrap yard from TO to Ottawa and no one had a used rear shock for sale. Luckily a dealer in Gat QC had blown shock that I could get the mount from

[gabbygenier]

set of Koni FSD shocks for 250 here used. be a good deal.
http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?50374-Goodies-for-sale.-Priced-to-GO!

[swales]

^Still needs the mounts though

[gabbygenier]

^Still needs the mounts though


oh ya. sorry. forgot they didnt come with. my bad

[FLIPDADY]

Voila!
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y226/AJBOY_99/jan24003.jpg

Cost it $49/ea plus tax and in stock.

[Thrizzl3]

well what do you know..JOE to the rescue!

[rage2021]

i have the exact same problem..mechanic said the same thing about replacing both shocks..how does it break off like that ...like wow. anyways he said its going to be a couple of hours of labor, is this correct?

[rage2021]

and do I REALLY need to do the other shock? its just the rear driver side shock that mount broke off.

[Olestra]

You probably don't need to but shops will recommend it because if the reason for replacement was a blown shock, the likelihood is that the other one is going to need to be replaced soon, so it's easier maintenance to replace both.

If you think your other shock still has a lot of life left in it, replace just one.

It looks like Joe has the mounts shown in his pic, so maybe you don't have to replace any shocks at all.

In regards to the "tyre tuning", I'd guess that's probably the wheel alignment.

[rage2021]

well the shocks probably suck too, its 2004 mazda 3 and its notorious for bad rear shocks right? might as well replace them :(

[AkitoI]

my g-friends Mazda3 has the same issue... all aftermarket versions don't come with the mount...grrr!
sending a PM to Joe now...

[AkitoI]

Joe came through and I got the replacement part on Saturday. My girlfriend and my wallet thanks you!

Install took me all of 20 mins with an impact gun. The original threads and bolts were very tight even with a good amount of PB blaster to loosen things up. I would not have wanted to try taking these off with just a ratchet. The nut was tight all the way down.

[acrossthec]

Okay, this may sound like a stupid question, but did you guys drive around with the shock mount broken?

I *just* broke mine this morning around Woodbine and Queen. It's a real piss-off, because the car was in for Trailing Arm Bushings on weds. Timing is everything right?
Just wondering if you drove to the shop to get the work done, or if you went with a tow? It sounds pretty nasty the three blocks I had to drive to get home, not sure I want to go too far on it.

[shadytreetek]

I just installed one of these on my car. I got one from Rock Auto for about $16 (Dorman Part No. 924-412).



http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

[shagra]

last time i drove on a broken shock, it cut my tire open...

[afretes]

Noob here : )

The rear left upper mount on my 3 broke. Apparently there's a way of replacing it without having to replace the whole shock. I know that Rock Auto has them, but I've read about FLIPDADY. Perhaps he can help. I've PMed him. Any other suggestions? Quick one?

TIA

[stevenma188]

Only other option I can think of is go to the wreckers.

[afretes]

Only other option I can think of is go to the wreckers.

Thanks, I'll give that a try.

[smallv]

So my friend asked me to take a look at his broken shock mount on his Mazda 3. My original hope was just to hold things in place long enough for him to research the lowest cost on parts. However the fix turned out such that it looks stronger than a new part might be. The part in question is essentially an aluminum tube with two flimsy tabs. There are holes in each tab and those tabs are mounted with two vertical bolts/studs to the under carriage of the car. Those tabs look like they are designed to corrode and break as soon as the warrantee is up. Here is how to fix it:

Step 1:
Go to Canadian Tire and buy a kit of large diameter washers. They are called fender washers. The outside diameter is about an inch and a half. The inside diameter is about 1/4 inch. I bought a 78 piece kit for $12.00 (62-3128-0). However, you only need between 2 and 4 washers and they come in a kit of 10 (LESS THAN $5.00). The 78 PIECE KIT part number will at least guide you to the right type of washer so you can spot what you need on the rack. I noticed they had a stainless steel version and that's what we'll probably switch over to now that the fix looks so permanent.

Step 2:
Jack the rear end of the car up by jacking under the transaxle. Use Axle stands, blocks of wood, tire blocks and other means to securely stabilize the vehicle. Now Remove the Tire. Locate the two vertical studs and lubricate them with penetrating oil.

Step 3:
Using a 13 Millimeter deep socket, remove the two nuts from the two long vertical studs. The broken tabs will probably fall to the ground. If not, pry them loose with a screw driver or use the pry portion of your tire iron.

Step 4
Place a log or axle stand underneath the brake rotor and swing arm. Lower the trolley jack while a colleague guides the shock mount into its original position. Use the weight of the car to bind the shock mount into its position between the two vertical studs.

Step 5:
Position the two fender washers on a 45 degree angle with one edge against the body of the shock mount and the other edge sitting against the frame of the car. Naturally, the long threaded studs should be running through the center of the fender washers. Now tighten the original nuts down onto the fender washers. It’s a lot faster if you have a cordless impact wrench doing the work for you. The nut will deform the fender washer into a tight fitting metal clamp that binds against both the side of the shock mount and the remnants of the broken tab. We performed this repair with the mild steel fender washers. I'm quite certain the Stainless steel washers would deform as easily as the less expensive "metal fender washers". However, the malleability of the stainless steel washers is just a guess at this point. Obviously stainless steel would offer more longevity. The repair described above locked the shock mount into place with impressive stability. It really does not look like it will break any time soon and could easily out last the flimsy aluminum tabs of a replacement mount (or the 9 year old car for that matter). If you wanted to go all out, you could remove the nuts, place a third and fourth washer into position and repeat the process of deforming the washers via nut tightening.

The 16 dollar mounts proposed by another poster also seem like a pretty good solution.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
(Dorman Part No. 924-412).


The part is not not hard to navigate to on the web site. Just navigate to the car model and then type in "shock mount" into the search window.

So if you want to order the replacement mounts, the fix above will certainly lock things in place long enough for you to drive around while the parts are on order.

Some words of caution. Any time you are working with a car jack, please be extremely careful. Work on a solid surface. Use axle stands. Block the tires. Throw the removed tire underneath the frame of the car near where the tire has been removed as an extra precaution. Dropping a car on you hand, foot or head would really suck and its very easy to do if you don't take all the necessary precautions.

The procedure described above involves working in and around the wheel well so an unstable staging of the vehicle would be very dangerous.

Take care.
pk

[TheMAN]

some pics would be great if you're doing this again

[smallv]

www.l3prime.com\images\IMGA0238.JPG

Here is a picture of the deformed fender washers clamping the aluminum shock mount into place. The picture understates how solid the mounting is. The tabs on the shock mount break off very close to the studs. What is left behind is a half inch of aluminum surface that is pinned between the deformed washer and the frame of the car. You know it occurs to me that since most of these shock mounts are probably going to break on a 8 to 10 year old Mazda that it might not be a bad idea to add a stainless steel or aluminum washer on to the top surface of one that has not broken yet. Adding a steel washer is going to weaken the mount over time because aluminum and steel react. Just a thought… If the failure of the part is inevitable, why not do something preventative.

[TheMAN]

pic didn't work

[smallv]

http://www.l3prime.com/images/IMGA0238.JPG

http://www.l3prime.com/images/IMGA0238.JPG

The image is there, I tested it. Just copy and paste into your browser address.

[TheMAN]

so essentially, what you did was use fender washers to force everything back in place? :whoa

[stevenma188]

Doesn't seem exactly safe.......

[peterm15]

Doesn't seem exactly safe.......

+1.
Not something I would do.

[stevenma188]

Step 3:
Using a 13 Millimeter deep socket, remove the two nuts from the two long vertical studs. The broken tabs will probably fall to the ground. If not, pry them loose with a screw driver or use the pry portion of your tire iron.

Also, FYI, it's a 12mm nut. You will strip it if you use a 13.

[smallv]

Doesn't seem exactly safe.......

I agree the picture does not convey safety and confidence. So, your comments about safety is completely understandable. However…

1) The original part has aluminum tabs that could be snapped off with a thumb and forefinger, particularly after a few years of bimetallic corrosion and exposure to salt. The fact that Mazda bolts thin aluminum to steel with no stainless steel washers or rubber grommets -- at one of the saltiest and wettest points in the car is a little irresponsible--I think.
2) The broken tabs were so deteriorated that I was able to crumble them like soup crackers. So what's safer, driving a 9 year old Mazda with two shock mounts that are ready to blow at any moment or driving with those same mounts viced into place with washers that are much stronger than the original aluminum tabs.
3) There is very little strength engineered into the aluminum tabs, likely because they don't bear any suspension load. They are just there to prevent the shock mount from slipping from side to side. The suspension load is directed vertically into the frame of the car.
4) I did describe this as a temporary repair that felt much more secure than the original part. At the point I helped my friend out, he was driving around with a free floating shock mount—unable to afford the dealership propose repair. Now he can drive the car safely while he orders the $16 part.
5) Really, this is a pretty useful field repair. Things don't always break when you are right next to a garage or during business hours.
6) I think it’s useful for Mazda owners to understand how these shock mounts degrade. Adding stainless steel washers earlier in the car’s life could greatly extend the part life. Preventative replacement of the part at year six or seven might be a worth while $32 insurance policy against an unexpected, costly and potentially dangerous part failure.

[TheMAN]

or you can replace the shock mounts with aftermarket ones...
Moog sells them under part number K160229 and Dorman sells it under part number 924412... it's also a good idea to replace the shock mount to shock mounting nut, which you order from mazda under part number CEY0-28-661... if the bump stop is gone, then you can try to make do with the Mazda5 one under part number CEY0-28-1A1... there's no rear bump stop available from the 3

[smallv]

so essentially, what you did was use fender washers to force everything back in place? :whoa

Well, that's a reasonable description of what I did except that no force was required to move the part into position. The shock mount hovers right where it is suppose to be even when nothing is holding it there.

I used the weight of the car to bind the top surface of the shock mount to the underside of the car. That binding prevented the shock mount from moving while the nuts tightened and deformed the fender washers.

Without using the weight of the car to prevent movement, the part would have just slid out of the way when the nuts were tightened. The broken tabs also needed to be removed to allow proper mating of the shock mount with undercarriage. So while the steps I outlined may have seemed overly detailed, they were actually significant to the outcome.

The size of the fender washer is also significant. The strength of this field repair depends on engaging the cylindrical surface of the shock mount like a vice grips a pipe. That requires a very large washer. A regular washer would only reach the remnants of the broken tabs. Those remnants are so thin and degraded that tightening a washer down would just pulverize the aluminum.

[stevenma188]

You do realize that the reaction of the compression of the spring will be exerted on the shock mount right? Just because it sits there when the car is jacked up doesn't mean that it's not subjected to force while driving.

[yanky.ng]

Hi guys,
i need that mount too. rockauto estimate shipping is NOV-20. Where can i get that part in the GTA.
Thanks.

[TheMAN]

parts source?

[Hyperion]

Hi guys,
i need that mount too. rockauto estimate shipping is NOV-20. Where can i get that part in the GTA.
Thanks.

Rock auto often has multiple brands you can buy, each ship out of different locations. Keep on trying different ones until you get one that will be here pretty much next day. I had 2 headlights shipped to me next day for $12.

[Canadianbacon]

.

[brucewayne]

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-auto-parts-and-accessories/markham-york-region/mazda-rear-strut-mount-brand-new-30/1017666714?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

[theo575]

Dealing with this same issue, but I've decided to just bite the bullet and replace my old shocks and struts and all the mounts. Might be overkill but I don't want to be dealing with shocks and struts again. What do you guys think?

[all]

on my mazda 5 i removed broken shock then removed the top shock nut. i then made a plate cut to match shock mount and drilled holes for the two studs and the shock top as well. plate was 1/8 stiff steel. as plate is bolted to shock by the top nut and spans the small opening between the studs,there is ample support for the shock and will not break again. that said i just found car with two mounts available so i will get them but still use the steel plates as well.

[all]

failed to mention that when i bolted steel plate to shock, the mount remains on as well. there is a rubber bushing in the mount which will give a little so nut tightens securely. also with the mount tabs gone there is no more steel/aluminum deterioration and the rubber bushing in top will also separate the two metals.

[brucewayne]

Dealing with this same issue, but I've decided to just bite the bullet and replace my old shocks and struts and all the mounts. Might be overkill but I don't want to be dealing with shocks and struts again. What do you guys think?

i did the same about a month ago. i wished i had replaced the springs on the struts... i guess ill go over them again in the summer as well as the rears

my shock mounts on my 05 were fine. shock mount was sprayed with rust stuff/undercoating and the shock mount was fine but i replaced all of them anyways since i was at 157k and everything was old. spraying stuff is good