First Oil Change?

[VectorForFood]

Hey guys,

When I had my 2009 Mazdaspeed3, I was told by the dealer never to use synthetic, I have since found out why they told me that lie.

I have also heard that some say, you shouldn't use synthetic until 10,000KMs, does this actually apply? The reason I heard was that it helps the engine "break in" using regular oil, which considering what synthetic oil is, that doesn't really make sense to me, but I'm no oil expert.

I'm planning on changing the oil every 4000KM's in my 2010 Mazdaspeed3, and I'm sitting at 3850 KM right now.

As a side note, I've ordered Corksports SRI/Turbo Inlet Pipe combo, and motor mount yesterday, probably won't put them on until March or so...

This is the first and last time I drove a Mazdaspeed in an Atlantic Canada winter, and it will be the last for sure... with the deep snow we have around here, and sometimes driving to/from work at odd hours I find this thing is a pig in the deep snow.

I will say our 2010 Mazda3 Sport is fantastic in the snow for a 4 banger FWD anyway... just more ground clearance I guess.

[laksman91]

Your car requires synthetic, pretty sure the manual says so.

[VectorForFood]

Your car requires synthetic, pretty sure the manual says so.

I'll admit, I haven't read that part yet, considering its the same engine as the 09, and the dealer told me I could never use synthetic I figured they'd say the same again.

All that being said I don't go to the dealership for work outside of warranty work.

I will be doing my own oil changes once it's not -11tybillion outside.

[Elusivellama]

This is the first and last time I drove a Mazdaspeed in an Atlantic Canada winter, and it will be the last for sure... with the deep snow we have around here, and sometimes driving to/from work at odd hours I find this thing is a pig in the deep snow.

Did you get winter tires? The stock tires are Dunlop SPs. As for breaking the engine in, that's fine for N/A Mazda 3s, but our DISI engines do something called fuel dilution, which effectively drops the viscosity of your engine oil down to some degree. I wouldn't dare to break the engine in on regular 5W-30 after hearing that.

Also (at least what I've read), the owner's manual never states that synthetic is required, it simply says that it needs SAE 5W-30 oil. Read the oil thread on this forum (sticky) and go with one of the oils listed. I personally use Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 because several used oil analyses (from BITOG forums) indicated that it is resistant to fuel dilution.

[VectorForFood]

Did I get winter tires? Hehe...

I guess I should state again I live in Moncton, NB these days...

Everybody has winter tires or you die... I'm running on Hankook Ice Bears, on 17" steelies.

The car is good fun on regular winter roads, but when it's heavy snow down, unplowed roads, if you stop, you're done... too much torque on the front wheels with or without DSC turned on...

[VectorForFood]

And sorry, thanks for the tips on the oil... I'll definately have a read!

[Elusivellama]

Yeah, the oil thread distills it down to about 4 oil choices. And I did wonder if I had made a mistake changing the oil early at 1200+ km, but I concluded that the engine is probably broken in already, and all I'm really doing is cleaning the shavings and other crap out, might as well give it excellent protection from the start with quality synthetic.

[Zoom Zoom Boy]

Comments in red.



Hey guys,

When I had my 2009 Mazdaspeed3, I was told by the dealer never to use synthetic, I have since found out why they told me that lie. So, why did they tell you that?

I have also heard that some say, you shouldn't use synthetic until 10,000KMs, does this actually apply? The reason I heard was that it helps the engine "break in" using regular oil, which considering what synthetic oil is, that doesn't really make sense to me, but I'm no oil expert.A lot of different opinions on this subject. Some people, such as 'The Man' on here, claim that Mazda ships all news cars with a special break-in oil to help the seating of the rings, pistons and valves and you shouldn't switch to synthetic until the 1st regular service. I've asked a few Mazda folks this question, including a Mazda Master tech and they have never heard of this special break-in oil before. This doesn't mean that it isn't true. Another theory is that synthetic is too thin by nature to allow proper seating of the rings. Anyway, do some reading and make your own conclusions. I've switched all my recent cars, inlcuding my MS3, to full synthetic (Amsoil 5W-30) between 2-3K. Just make sure that you do some WOT pulls and full vacuum release to allow everything to seat properly.

I'm planning on changing the oil every 4000KM's in my 2010 Mazdaspeed3, and I'm sitting at 3850 KM right now.
Even with the fuel dilution problem, this is probably overkill if you are using a good full synthetic. I do tend to change mine every 4-5K as well, but it can be 4-6 months before I put that mileage on the car, which is why I do it. If you are driving regular mileage on a good synthetic and not tracking the car, you could stick to the 8K intervals. In the end, do what makes you the most comfortable.

As a side note, I've ordered Corksports SRI/Turbo Inlet Pipe combo, and motor mount yesterday, probably won't put them on until March or so... I'd stick with just the SRI on a stock tune. If you have an AP, then go for it becasue you can tune for it. Plenty of stuff on MSF forums about this.

This is the first and last time I drove a Mazdaspeed in an Atlantic Canada winter, and it will be the last for sure... with the deep snow we have around here, and sometimes driving to/from work at odd hours I find this thing is a pig in the deep snow.

I will say our 2010 Mazda3 Sport is fantastic in the snow for a 4 banger FWD anyway... just more ground clearance I guess.
Did you have winter tires? If not, then yes, the MS3 comes with summer only tires and would be horrific in the cold and snow. With winter tires, I actually find it handles just as well as our 05' hatch in the snow and perhaps better because of the DSC engaging when you really slide her. On the flip side, you have to really be light on the throttle and keep the boost off or at a minimum. Too much power on snow and ice just means plenty of wheel spin.

[Zoom Zoom Boy]

Did I get winter tires? Hehe...

I guess I should state again I live in Moncton, NB these days...

Everybody has winter tires or you die... I'm running on Hankook Ice Bears, on 17" steelies.

The car is good fun on regular winter roads, but when it's heavy snow down, unplowed roads, if you stop, you're done... too much torque on the front wheels with or without DSC turned on...

You answered one of my questions. The Icebear is a performance winter tire. It isn't really designed to handle deep snow, so yah, I can understand what you mean. Being in the maritimes, you'd be better off with Ghislaved Nordfrost5's, Nokian Hakkapellita's, Hankook iPike 409's or some other tire with an aggressive deep snow design and tread pattern. You will just lose handling and the ability to put gobs of power down on the dry days, which is where the Icebear's really excel. Great tire on an MS3 in Toronto,not so much for an MS3 in the Maritimes and you guys are getting pounded with snow this year...

[Elusivellama]

I have the Hankook w409s, excellent tire for snow, very confident in it. Not the best tire for WOT pulls and handling, but not bad either. Anyway, I bought them for the snow and they excel in that respect.

As for what ZZB said, go visit msf.org and look for the intake thread, or the "holy moly love my Cobb sri" thread, there is a really good post there about the top 5 mods to do. In a nutshell, one of their more knowledgeable modders recommended getting a rmm, Sri/cai, jbarone shift plate and bushings, and a couple other things. He also specifically said that the combo of the Cobb sri and tip would cause problems with CELs unless you also have a Cobb AP

[Mazda3X2]

I just got rid of a set of Ice Bear W300s and switched to Blizzak WS60s. Quite a big difference. I'm in Greenwood, NS and we have been getting nailed here with snow too. I didn't like the way the W300s were handling the East Coast winter so I made the switch about 3 weeks ago. For NB get some real winter tires and I think you'll feel more confident, I do.

[SomeGuy]

Had a 2006 MZ3 GS 5 speed with BF Goodrich Winter Slaloms and it was ok in the snow. My new 2010 MS3 with XIce2's is way better...I find the limited slip diff is a huge help as you don't end up with one wheel burn outs. The traction control definitely keeps things from getting carried away, you can actually floor it on a slippery road and it won't just let the revs pin to the limiter.

[fywdyl]

Lol, oil change thread got changed into a winter tire thread.

[Tokay444]

Yeah, the oil thread distills it down to about 4 oil choices. And I did wonder if I had made a mistake changing the oil early at 1200+ km, but I concluded that the engine is probably broken in already, and all I'm really doing is cleaning the shavings and other crap out, might as well give it excellent protection from the start with quality synthetic.

If you have shavings in your oil, there's more to worry about than sytheticn.

[Mazda3X2]

Lol, oil change thread got changed into a winter tire thread.

There are so many threads on these forums about oil I just couldn't bring myself to comment about it.

[VectorForFood]

Thanks for all the info guys.

I might just get a beater next year, if I don't I will need new winter tires regardless, these are third season, came off my 09 Mazdaspeed.

As for the question on why the dealer tells you here to not use synthetic... more frequent oil changes means more $$ in their pockets, their take on synthetic or regular oil I imagine is still close to the same.

[McGuyver_3]

mazda uses a semi synthetic oil anyways. But i suggest you do synthetic sooner then later. I do oil changes every 2000km (synthetic) but i drive my car hard and rack up the mileage in about 1 month. (2000-3000) For regular intervals I bring it to the dealer 8,16,24 etc etc just to keep up the warranty. I just supply my own oil

[Kris"Speed3"CWP]

I am using Amsoil XL synthetic with their oil filter I change every 6,000km but my fuel dilution is real high so running stock trim now to figure out problem. Only thing that is saving my engine with such high fuel dilution,(aka viscosity breakdown) is the synthetic.

Also had X-ice2 17" on my car, they sucked ass took them off after 1st snow in 2009 had them on for 3 weeks, and bought real tires Nokian Hakapalitta's R's. They are the best and they got their technology from ice racing and tire are made for Russia and and the Nordic regions of Europe, can you say 120km/hr in unplowed deep stuff with one hand not even trying on the highway and stopping is and turning awesome!

Wish I could buy the Hakka 5's with studs but the $1,000 fine not worth it!!!

[VertigoM]

Going for my first oil change tomorrow! Gonna put in Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 along with a Mobil1 filter I picked up from CT.

I'm at just under 3,000km.

[Zoom Zoom Boy]

Going for my first oil change tomorrow! Gonna put in Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 along with a Mobil1 filter I picked up from CT.

I'm at just under 3,000km.

Suggest you use the OEM filter. Mazda can be fussy when it comes to aftermarket filters and if you have a related issue they will most likely give you a hassle about the aftermarket filter where warranty is concerned. Just a heads-up...

[Elusivellama]

Going for my first oil change tomorrow! Gonna put in Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 along with a Mobil1 filter I picked up from CT.

I'm at just under 3,000km.

Make 100% sure that it isn't overfilled, not even by 1mm above the top circle, and check it every couple days on a completely level surface to make sure that it isn't filling up via fuel dilution.

[VertigoM]

Thanks for the tips guys.

One of the reasons why i brought my own filter is because it's higher capacity compared to the OEM replacement. Its the same size as the factory filter. Therefore the chance of overfilling is lower.

Hopefully the mobil1 filter doesnt cause any issues -- it should be fine right??