Brake work DIY

[rzapata]

Hello all,

I was just wondering if there's a thread here with step by step instructions on how to disassemble/clean the brake calipers and/or replace the brake pads and rotors?? Oh, and what tools are needed??

I heard that it's not that hard but time consuming for the first time doer..

On that note, any good places to buy quality rotors and pads in Scarborough??

Thanks!

[Nick]

shop around, try crappy tire, nascar pads are pretty good and sometimes on sale. i also call napa and collins auto parts. collins carries mostly ac delco which is oem for GM which is decent quality.

[Jackal]

North of Scarborough. Try NextMod. DBA rotors are on sale and also get a set of Hawk HPS brake pads. Check our sponsors.

[Kappa]

its pretty easy. just take the wheel off... compress the piston in the caliper, unbolt and remove the caliper.. hit rotor with big hammer.. remove break pads with flat head.. replace? did i miss anything?

[rzapata]

Thanks for all the info.. I'll try to contact Nextmod when it's time to do my brakes.. I'll wait 'till it gets warmer.. Right now I'm just trying to collect all materials and tools that I'll need. So far, I have a socket set and ratchet for spark plugs and probably these plugs will work on the brake job as well (I hope)..

My next priority is to get coilovers because I think my shocks are slowly dying.. Thanks to Kappa for the instructions, it's appreciated.. :) Although, the tools aren't specified?? ;)

Speaking of coilovers, anyone know of Megan Racing coilovers?? Sorry to get sidetracked..

[WeatherB]

If I remember correctly you need a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, a 7mm allen, a C-clamp, and either a rear caliper compression tool or a needle nose plier.

You should look around for the Mazda 3 shop manual. It'll have all the instructions and torque specs.

Here's a guide for the rear, front is very similar: http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=25476.0

[rzapata]

Pretty cool DIY instructions.. Will keep this handy when the time comes to replace my brake pads and rotors!!

Thanks WeatherB!!

[McGuyver_3]

when screwing in the rear caliper with pliers be very careful, if you slip off their is a good chance you will rip the boot and fluid leaks will be possible. You must also put pushing force on it while turning. Try to keep the brake line as straight as possible for the fluid to go back with least resistance possible

[peterm15]

Crappy tire has a socket set on sale right now that should come with all you need. including the allen.

A chilton or hayes( or haynes i forget) is the best thing you can get, There usually about 20 bucks at CT as well.
If you dont have the tools a brake job can be quite expensive, seeing as if your missing one tool youll need to go get one, and tools can be costly, but after the first time doing it it will be a breeze.

good luck

[Shawn]

its pretty easy. just take the wheel off... compress the piston in the caliper, unbolt and remove the caliper.. hit rotor with big hammer.. remove break pads with flat head.. replace? did i miss anything?

Yeah, Clean. Clean caliper slide pins and lub. Clean hub, and apply thin amount of anti-seize. Put on rotor. Anti-seize for rim.

[rzapata]

Thanks again for all the info... Just a noob question, I recently purchased a Permatex copper anti-seize lubricant... Is that the one you were referring to about the lub anti seize?? I was gonna use this when I replace my spark plugs this weekend...

Also, that piston in the calipers, I've never actually seen it first hand, I guess I'll search you tube or something to get myself more familiar with that..

As for the socket set at CRAPPY TIRE (I assume you meant Canadian Tire; sorry, new to these terms), I got to go back and get them.. I had just bought other tools for replacing spark plugs and 52 piece socket set.. I'm not sure if that set came in with what I need for the brake job, but yeah, I'll be researching about that still.. :)

Again, thanks to all for the responses. This forum is really great especially for people just beginning to work on their cars by themselves for the first time.. :)

[Shawn]

Yep. Copper should work, semi-synthetic is good.

[peterm15]

Thanks again for all the info... Just a noob question, I recently purchased a Permatex copper anti-seize lubricant... Is that the one you were referring to about the lub anti seize?? I was gonna use this when I replace my spark plugs this weekend...

Also, that piston in the calipers, I've never actually seen it first hand, I guess I'll search you tube or something to get myself more familiar with that..

As for the socket set at CRAPPY TIRE (I assume you meant Canadian Tire; sorry, new to these terms), I got to go back and get them.. I had just bought other tools for replacing spark plugs and 52 piece socket set.. I'm not sure if that set came in with what I need for the brake job, but yeah, I'll be researching about that still.. :)

Again, thanks to all for the responses. This forum is really great especially for people just beginning to work on their cars by themselves for the first time.. :)

it may. but if not just get the proper size allen attachment, you dont have to buy a whole new set.
Like i said the first time is tough but its a brease after that.

and yes crappy tire is Canadian tire.

[Cosmo77]

Anyone else thinking "if I have to ask how to do BRAKES, I shouldn;t be doing them?"

[McGuyver_3]

Anyone else thinking "if I have to ask how to do BRAKES, I shouldn;t be doing them?"

everyone has to start somewhere? i think lol

[Kappa]

^^ +1.. although i didnt do mine the first time i watched as a buddy of mine showed me what to do..

[McGuyver_3]

if you have the luxury of that i would highly aggree on it

[rzapata]

Anyone else thinking "if I have to ask how to do BRAKES, I shouldn;t be doing them?"

Well, that was my initial thought however, if you think about how much money you'd be spending on labour, it's almost double the price of parts... So, instead of paying somebody to work on stuff that I can tackle myself, better to do it on my own, learn the basics and stuff, and spend the money I'll be paying for labour on mods instead..

The plus side is that I learned something new.. And would you not prefer working on your own car instead of sending it off to the mechanic all the time?? It may just be me but, I think that it's a great feeling that I do my own mechanical work (at least on things I can do with what tools I have).. :)

[McGuyver_3]

Well, that was my initial thought however, if you think about how much money you'd be spending on labour, it's almost double the price of parts... So, instead of paying somebody to work on stuff that I can tackle myself, better to do it on my own, learn the basics and stuff, and spend the money I'll be paying for labour on mods instead..

The plus side is that I learned something new.. And would you not prefer working on your own car instead of sending it off to the mechanic all the time?? It may just be me but, I think that it's a great feeling that I do my own mechanical work (at least on things I can do with what tools I have).. :)

What i think he means is, You should have someone who has done this before watch you while you are doing the job. kind of like a mentor or tutor just in case

[CallySpd]

Just need to take you time and you'll be alright ... but someone looking over your shoulder helps too.

[rzapata]

Agree.. Oh well, as said, I'll be taking my time when the time comes... I'll make sure I have a whole day of no rain in the summer time.. :)

[wmzda5]

also be sure you have a torque wrench handy for the brake job and the wheels.

[Dave_The_BMXER]

If you can rent the compression tool do it. Plier method sucks.

[rzapata]

Torque wrench and compression tool, sounds good.. I'll put that on my list..

Thanks again for all the inputs!! :thumbsup

[Nick]

ok, so by reading this thread i've learned the rear brakes need to be turned while compressed. when you apply the brakes is the piston turning while it's coming out?

where can i rent and possibly buy this tool?

the real problem is that my rear left is not spinning freely and i cannot compress the piston, the boot is in good condition. i serviced the other 3 brakes myself and had no problems. what made me check the rear left is when i reverse i can hear a very loud squeek. my handbrake is good. i already looked at rebuilt calipers but i'm leaving them as my last option.

[JaYson]

1) Torque wrenches are currently on sale at Canadian tire 50% off

2) MAKE SURE! after you do the break job, you pump your breaks before you drive off for the first time. to make sure the pressure is built back up in the calipers


I'm likely going to be tackling this job (for the first time) too this summer.

[liquidzyklon]

ok, so by reading this thread i've learned the rear brakes need to be turned while compressed. when you apply the brakes is the piston turning while it's coming out?

where can i rent and possibly buy this tool?

the real problem is that my rear left is not spinning freely and i cannot compress the piston, the boot is in good condition. i serviced the other 3 brakes myself and had no problems. what made me check the rear left is when i reverse i can hear a very loud squeek. my handbrake is good. i already looked at rebuilt calipers but i'm leaving them as my last option.The brake caliper tool can be bought at Harbour Frieght, link. (http://www.harborfreight.com/18-piece-disc-brake-pad-and-caliper-service-tool-kit-97143.html?utm_campaign=SEO&utm_medium=Inbound_links&utm_source=linking)

I have bought the tool myself on a trip to the states but have not used it yet, so you got PM if you wanna borrow from me.

[JaYson]

anyone know how much the OEM Piston Compression tool is? (part number: 49 F043 002) (im half hoping flipdaddy sees this)

[Dave_The_BMXER]

Unless you are doing your brakes all the time you can rent from Canadian Tire/Parts Source