shu5892001
04-04-2011, 02:55 PM
Hi guys,
As some of you may know I just changed to HP+ and the squealing is killing me (although not anymore) I have came across this article when I was researching the proper way of bedding brakes.
Full article here: http://www.powerbrake.co.za/tech_info/tech_02_bedin.htm
Pre Bed-in Cycle:
Drive slowly for 1 week (at least 300km’s) after fitting new discs and pads. Use moderate brake applications during this time and try to avoid long brake applications from speeds in excess of 100 kph. Normal urban commuting, using your brakes from moderate speeds about once per kilometre is ideal. Long stretches of open road driving do not count, as the brakes are not being used. Increase following distances during this time making provision for “green fade” in an emergency stop. Never left foot brake or drag the brakes! None of the MTR temperature recording paints should have changed during this period.
At the end of the first week it should be clearly visible that the pad friction material has achieved maximum contact area with the disc surface. The ‘pad track area’ of the disc should have none of the silver disc coating left on it and should be an even light-grey colour.
Bed-in Cycle:
1 Drive slowly for a few kilometres, using the brakes gently to bring them up to a moderate operating temperature.
2 Perform 6 consecutive brake applications of increasing intensity from 100 km/h down to 30 km/h. If wheel lock-up (or ABS activation) is referred to as a 100% brake effort then you should be aiming to build up to a 60 - 70% brake effort for the last 2 applications. The applications should be performed consecutively, accelerating normally back up to 100 km/h after each application, before braking again.
3 If possible, do NOT come to a complete stop throughout the 6 brake applications described above. Doing so canl result in ‘pad etching’ during which friction material is unevenly deposited onto the brake disc causing DTV and brake judder. The will be visible as the outline of a brake pad on the disc surface. (To learn more about pad etching and DTV click here)
4 It is normal to experience a strong smell and even see a small amount of smoke rising from the brakes from the 4th application onwards. This is not a problem. Be prepared to experience “green fade” from the 4th application onwards.
5 Drive on, using the brake as little as possible, for a number of kilometres allowing the brakes to cool substantially in the air-stream before parking the vehicle and allowing the brakes to cool completely. This cooling cycle is important.
6 Gradually build up your driving style over the next 500 - 700 km's while keeping an eye on the MTR temperature measuring paints on the discs. If the red paint turns white, you are running your discs over 610 deg C and disc life will be reduced as a result.
Is it really necessary? I mean is bedding the brakes this much of a hassle? On the HAWK boxes, they just tell you to do 6-10 stops with moderate pressure from 30-35 mph and 3 hard stops from 40-45 mph (which is what I did).
Thanks,
Shu
As some of you may know I just changed to HP+ and the squealing is killing me (although not anymore) I have came across this article when I was researching the proper way of bedding brakes.
Full article here: http://www.powerbrake.co.za/tech_info/tech_02_bedin.htm
Pre Bed-in Cycle:
Drive slowly for 1 week (at least 300km’s) after fitting new discs and pads. Use moderate brake applications during this time and try to avoid long brake applications from speeds in excess of 100 kph. Normal urban commuting, using your brakes from moderate speeds about once per kilometre is ideal. Long stretches of open road driving do not count, as the brakes are not being used. Increase following distances during this time making provision for “green fade” in an emergency stop. Never left foot brake or drag the brakes! None of the MTR temperature recording paints should have changed during this period.
At the end of the first week it should be clearly visible that the pad friction material has achieved maximum contact area with the disc surface. The ‘pad track area’ of the disc should have none of the silver disc coating left on it and should be an even light-grey colour.
Bed-in Cycle:
1 Drive slowly for a few kilometres, using the brakes gently to bring them up to a moderate operating temperature.
2 Perform 6 consecutive brake applications of increasing intensity from 100 km/h down to 30 km/h. If wheel lock-up (or ABS activation) is referred to as a 100% brake effort then you should be aiming to build up to a 60 - 70% brake effort for the last 2 applications. The applications should be performed consecutively, accelerating normally back up to 100 km/h after each application, before braking again.
3 If possible, do NOT come to a complete stop throughout the 6 brake applications described above. Doing so canl result in ‘pad etching’ during which friction material is unevenly deposited onto the brake disc causing DTV and brake judder. The will be visible as the outline of a brake pad on the disc surface. (To learn more about pad etching and DTV click here)
4 It is normal to experience a strong smell and even see a small amount of smoke rising from the brakes from the 4th application onwards. This is not a problem. Be prepared to experience “green fade” from the 4th application onwards.
5 Drive on, using the brake as little as possible, for a number of kilometres allowing the brakes to cool substantially in the air-stream before parking the vehicle and allowing the brakes to cool completely. This cooling cycle is important.
6 Gradually build up your driving style over the next 500 - 700 km's while keeping an eye on the MTR temperature measuring paints on the discs. If the red paint turns white, you are running your discs over 610 deg C and disc life will be reduced as a result.
Is it really necessary? I mean is bedding the brakes this much of a hassle? On the HAWK boxes, they just tell you to do 6-10 stops with moderate pressure from 30-35 mph and 3 hard stops from 40-45 mph (which is what I did).
Thanks,
Shu