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VELAN
04-24-2011, 01:59 PM
I have had rust repairs done in the wheel-well area twice and recently signs of rust have re-appeared in the same areas *sigh*.

Nonetheless, for those that have been affected and/or are interested, there is an open investigation with the APA (Autmobile Protection Association) regarding this topic:

"Mazda 3 2004-2006
The APA has determined that many 2004 and 2005 Mazda 3s have corrosion problems, notably on the rear fenders where they meet the bumper cover, the trunk, hatchback and welds where the outer door skins attach to the inner door. The APA is seeking Mazda 3 corrosion complaints from consumers whose cars are showing signs of corrosion. If you have had repairs done or your car is rusting, please complete the complaint form (http://www.apa.ca/complaintform.asp)."


-V-

rzapata
04-24-2011, 03:04 PM
If you've tried to inquire about the repairs but was denied due to a technicality (VIN says 2005 but car made in 2004), will this apply as well?

Burner
04-24-2011, 10:08 PM
Knowing what the APA is about, it looks like they might be gathering information for a class action lawsuit. A case could be made for a loss in resale value as well as other things. The only way they'll move forward with anything is if they have enough complaints so everyone on the forum with a 04-06 should take a few minutes to fill out the form. Might be worth while.

shu5892001
04-24-2011, 10:35 PM
I filled out

aris
04-25-2011, 01:21 AM
.....

rzapata
04-25-2011, 08:41 AM
I would love to fill the form out, but it's only for those who had done the repair.. :(

Burner
04-25-2011, 09:06 AM
I would love to fill the form out, but it's only for those who had done the repair.. :(

It's for anyone who's car is rusting so you can fill it out.

rzapata
04-25-2011, 09:16 AM
Filled it out... Didn't realize that it will allow me to submit even though I did not have it repaired.. :)

DumpInfo
04-25-2011, 10:44 AM
Filled out.

OP, bring this across to a moderator to correct the years for everyone to fill out the application.

Thrizzl3
04-25-2011, 11:08 AM
Filled out

acrossthec
04-25-2011, 11:22 AM
Filled out

shu5892001
04-25-2011, 11:37 AM
also vote for sticky so EVERYONE signs it lol

ismail_alikhan
04-27-2011, 08:45 AM
STICKY!!!

rzapata
04-27-2011, 09:04 AM
Sticky too!!! :)

hali83
05-06-2011, 04:42 PM
Filled out :) Had rust fixed in November 2010 and as my car was getting oil changed/winter tires removed in April I noticed the bottom of the driver door is starting to bubble :(

rsquared
05-10-2011, 10:05 AM
I'm filling out the form but not sure how I find out my car's production date and in-service date. Also, under ownership, there doesn't seem to be a "owned by private party" option.

yuro
05-14-2011, 07:25 PM
I filled out this form... Yes, Mazda did "fix" the original issue, but the rust came back within a year, probably worst bodywork ever and it was done under warranty by an official dealership.... hopefully APA will be able to push for a class action lawsuit against Mazda....

NaturalMystic
05-16-2011, 02:14 PM
As soon as I gather the info needed (VIN, etc) I'll complete the form also. Thanks for this, hopefully something comes of it.

Kwokalobster
05-17-2011, 12:52 PM
Filled out..

RustyMazda3
06-05-2011, 01:40 PM
I have a 2005 Mazda3 with rust on the wheel wells, rockers, and taillights. I have been through a very frustrating ordeal with Mazda to try to have them repair it and am in the process of taking the matter to small claims court.

I have also been in touch with the APA and, the investigation into the Mazda3 corrosion issues that has been mentioned in this thread, was back in 2008. Apparently several members on a forum got together and the APA wrote a letter to Mazda Canada on their behalf. The result was favourable but I don't believe the investigation is still ongoing.

I have set up a website where those interested can read about my experience with Mazda in detail. I will also be posting updates as things progress.

http://RustyMazda3.ca/

Thanks.

Marta
04-18-2012, 11:54 AM
Has there been any recent updates/news on this issue? Has Mazda responded to the complaints?
Thanks!

Thrizzl3
04-18-2012, 12:16 PM
mazda offered a 7yr corrosion warranty on earlier models. I had my 2005 sedan done in 09.

Marta
04-18-2012, 03:59 PM
Gahhh, thats useless to me. But thank you.

Gloomfrost
04-19-2012, 12:35 AM
Yeah damn.. my '04 is a little too old for that 7yrs... BULLOCKS!

Flagrum_3
04-19-2012, 01:45 PM
mazda offered a 7yr corrosion warranty on earlier models. I had my 2005 sedan done in 09.

Was that 7 or 6 years? If it's 7 for sure, I'm still covered till this summer, although still no signs of rust, (knock on wood).

_3

mazdabetty
04-19-2012, 01:55 PM
6 years ;)

But certain dealerships (or more the service managers) made SOME exceptions. Had to really fight for it though.

fumoffu
04-19-2012, 02:02 PM
6 years?

hmmm I got denied for my car is not cover by rust. 2006 Mazda 3. I spend 2 days running around with Mazda Canada and different Mazda dealerships.
http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/2981/img0783th.jpg

Flagrum_3
04-19-2012, 02:09 PM
6 years ;)

But certain dealerships (or more the service managers) made SOME exceptions. Had to really fight for it though.

So howz yours look'n so far? You had it done last year didn't you?

_3

Flagrum_3
04-19-2012, 02:12 PM
6 years?

hmmm I got denied for my car is not cover by rust. 2006 Mazda 3. I spend 2 days running around with Mazda Canada and different Mazda dealerships.
http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/2981/img0783th.jpg

Well I'd suggest you sign the APA complaint form here, if you haven't yet. If it leads to a class action suit you may be covered in the end.

_3

Thrizzl3
04-19-2012, 02:14 PM
Was that 7 or 6 years? If it's 7 for sure, I'm still covered till this summer, although still no signs of rust, (knock on wood).

_3

ya 6...hit the 7 by accident..:p

mazdabetty
04-19-2012, 04:11 PM
So howz yours look'n so far? You had it done last year didn't you?

_3

Yeahhhhh. 5th time bringing it in? Maybe 6th? I've lost count :( I had it fixed last May and it's coming back already. *SIGH* The bodyshop guaranteed me 2 years so I'll bring it back again this fall, but, my car is being eaten alive again slowly.


6 years?

hmmm I got denied for my car is not cover by rust. 2006 Mazda 3. I spend 2 days running around with Mazda Canada and different Mazda dealerships.

The 6th year was an additional year added for 2004-2005 mazda3's only, as far as I was told by one dealership. And it only covered the wheel wells and trunk lid I think, rocker panels and doors I was SOL for.

Flagrum_3
04-19-2012, 05:31 PM
ya 6...hit the 7 by accident..:p

Must have been all that grease and sticky fingers ;-)


Yeahhhhh. 5th time bringing it in? Maybe 6th? I've lost count :( I had it fixed last May and it's coming back already. *SIGH* The bodyshop guaranteed me 2 years so I'll bring it back again this fall, but, my car is being eaten alive again slowly.



The 6th year was an additional year added for 2004-2005 mazda3's only, as far as I was told by one dealership. And it only covered the wheel wells and trunk lid I think, rocker panels and doors I was SOL for.

That sucks bigtime! I'm guessing they never replaced the panels, just worked them. CheapAss mother ******'s. Maybe it's time to consider getting something else (after they've fixed it again)???

_3

mazdabetty
04-19-2012, 06:10 PM
Actually, Mazda Canada gave my dealership the budget to do a cut and weld on my wheel wells, but when the bodyshop saw that they said they could guarantee the rust would come back in a couple of years anyway, and that I was better off doing the standard shave and paint, and spend the rest of the budget fixing other areas such as my door sills, trunk lid, etc.

He personally guaranteed me 2 years, which is why I'll be bringing my car back in the fall for the final fix, but unless panels are completely replaced, it's inevitable that the rust will return :(

Will be getting rid of the car as soon as it's paid off lol

DumpInfo
04-19-2012, 06:36 PM
Actually, Mazda Canada gave my dealership the budget to do a cut and weld on my wheel wells, but when the bodyshop saw that they said they could guarantee the rust would come back in a couple of years anyway, and that I was better off doing the standard shave and paint, and spend the rest of the budget fixing other areas such as my door sills, trunk lid, etc.

He personally guaranteed me 2 years, which is why I'll be bringing my car back in the fall for the final fix, but unless panels are completely replaced, it's inevitable that the rust will return :(

Will be getting rid of the car as soon as it's paid off lol

Get it fixed and move on!

Gloomfrost
04-19-2012, 08:52 PM
Can anyone suggest the CHEAPEST way to repair/hide rust? I have an old '04 Mazda, and the plan is to get a new car within the next year or two max. Having said that, I have a growingly large rust patch around the rear wheel wells, and under the gas tank where the bumper meets the top shell. I was thinking just tape+spray. I don't want to pay for it since it's not worth fighting at this point (the doors on the inside are also rusted, it would be $1000+ job to repair properly), and it'll probably come back too.

Any ideas?

coriolis
04-19-2012, 09:22 PM
I'm thinking of ways myself. I looked into the OEM wheel arches but can't find them for a decent price, and I really don't want to spend more money on the car right now, especially since I drive about 400~ km a month.


Is it this bad? No, not mines, but I saw this a few weeks back and just facepalmed.

http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/5373/20120406123513.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/269/20120406123513.jpg/)

Flagrum_3
04-19-2012, 10:28 PM
Can anyone suggest the CHEAPEST way to repair/hide rust? I have an old '04 Mazda, and the plan is to get a new car within the next year or two max. Having said that, I have a growingly large rust patch around the rear wheel wells, and under the gas tank where the bumper meets the top shell. I was thinking just tape+spray. I don't want to pay for it since it's not worth fighting at this point (the doors on the inside are also rusted, it would be $1000+ job to repair properly), and it'll probably come back too.

Any ideas?

To both you guys above. Just do it yourself! Believe me it's not that hard, you'll be amazed how fast you pick it up as you go. You'll need to get some supplies at CT or Princess. Instead of me going thru the whole drill here though, just Google it. But you'll want to use fiberglass, bondo....Cheapest way and it can actually turn out not too bad.

Try Youtube- Body work and repair for videos.

Thats my 2c worth.

_3

DumpInfo
04-21-2012, 09:55 AM
Why not go to a scrap yard and try finding it's replacements? Might be cheaper...

Dave_The_BMXER
04-21-2012, 11:01 AM
Packing it with fiberglass/bondo without treating the rust is just a band aid... you know all those civics you see with hazy rear quarters?

I mean it helps sort of I guess.

Flagrum_3
04-21-2012, 05:58 PM
Packing it with fiberglass/bondo without treating the rust is just a band aid... you know all those civics you see with hazy rear quarters?

I mean it helps sort of I guess.

I think you've misunderstood. First; you always remove all the rust first, always down to good metal then you start with the metal treatment, fiberglass then bondo. Watch a couple of videos to get an idea what I'm talking about. I also don't think (from their comments) that they expect a class 'A' job, just something decent to get them along and 'Cheap' ;)


_3

Dave_The_BMXER
04-21-2012, 08:35 PM
No I have a pretty good idea lol. But treating the rust properly requires cutting it out ideally, anything else comes back (time frame just depends on prep).

All that being said I am doing what you described (sans bondo and glass as it was not necessary) to my passenger side rocker right now. Thankfully it is covered by the side skirt so I can use rocker guard.

Flagrum_3
04-22-2012, 12:00 PM
No I have a pretty good idea lol. But treating the rust properly requires cutting it out ideally, anything else comes back (time frame just depends on prep).

All that being said I am doing what you described (sans bondo and glass as it was not necessary) to my passenger side rocker right now. Thankfully it is covered by the side skirt so I can use rocker guard.

Well that goes without saying, cut grind whatever, any visible rust should be taken out before doing anyhting else, if not whats the use? You could also use sheet metal instead of fiberglass/bondo, but that requires much more skill.

_3

Dave_The_BMXER
04-22-2012, 01:51 PM
There in lies the rub lol, if you remove a lot of material you have to fill it with something but bondo doesn't expand and contract the same metal does so eventually it cracks.

Life sucks, one day I will take an autobody course.

Flagrum_3
04-22-2012, 10:46 PM
There in lies the rub lol, if you remove a lot of material you have to fill it with something but bondo doesn't expand and contract the same metal does so eventually it cracks.

Life sucks, one day I will take an autobody course.

That only happens if you haven't done it right, the trick is to use very little bondo. As little as possible; with thin layers. The fiberglass is the key! proper number of layers for size of area being covered, and proper forming....did alot of bodywork in my early years and took autobody in school and had an awesome teacher. Our class totally rebuilt the teachers 32 Ford, took us 3 years. We used mostly metal but bondo was still needed.

_3

Dave_The_BMXER
04-23-2012, 07:38 AM
Any tips on blending panels?

Filling holes aside I find that the hardest part.

Flagrum_3
04-23-2012, 12:08 PM
Any tips on blending panels?

Filling holes aside I find that the hardest part.

Blending in what way; Colour or smoothness of panels? If you mean seemless matching of panels thats the hardest part of the process and takes alot of practice and experience. It would take a while for me to explain the process here. But as a tip; Lets say your trying to match the wheel well section right next to your rear door, you've cut out or ground the rust completely off the metal. now if you just go putting glass and bondo on now you will end up slightly higher then the door on the well section. Trick is to tap with a hammer and block of wood or a ball-peen hammer, the section your going to 'fill' and slightly indent it to a depth you would figure once glass/ fill and sanding are done would bring it level with the door....I hope that makes sense. THis is where pics or videos would help alot lol.

_3

Dave_The_BMXER
04-23-2012, 12:19 PM
Paint texture, though the hammer trick method I did use on my e30 in a small spot before I knew it was a method lol.

Flagrum_3
04-23-2012, 12:38 PM
Paint texture, though the hammer trick method I did use on my e30 in a small spot before I knew it was a method lol.

Painting was never my forte lol, but a proper prepping is always one major key to a good paint job. Meaning a nice smooth base finish; a couple of coats of primer with light sanding to smooth it out, clean and paint. A good match in colour is all up to the paint you have, your application experience and how badly the paint has faded on the vehicle. I would suggest 3 or more light coats of paint, wet sanding in between and then clearcoat.

_3

Gloomfrost
04-24-2012, 04:20 AM
Just to clarify what I originally wanted; it should take <2 hours, and be <$100.

I bought my car used from a relative for a ridiculously good price, and because mechanically, it's flawless. However, she got herself a bad case of the rusties, which would be too expensive to repair properly. I was asking for the quickest, cheapest way to just make it look less noticeable than it does now. Orangey rust colour doesn't match with grey...

It won't need to last more than a year or two MAX, as that's when I'll be getting a new car. By that time, the resell price on an '04 with 200+kms will be too low to justify any fixing.

So yes, let's hear the most cost and time-effective means to just 'hide' the rust, not really repair it (as that takes more time and $). In other words, I can see the rust right now from 30m away. I want to hopefully reduce that down to 5-10m lol.

Flagrum_3
04-24-2012, 12:06 PM
If you insist on going cheaper then the suggestion I made earlier then may I suggest; DUCT TAPE and Cheap Crappy Tire paint? ;)


_3

D4deez
04-27-2012, 11:34 AM
I'd like to sign the form as my car is starting to show symptoms. Would I qualify if mine is a 2006? Also, I bought it used, rather than from a dealership.

zmz3
04-27-2012, 12:12 PM
I'd like to sign the form as my car is starting to show symptoms. Would I qualify if mine is a 2006? Also, I bought it used, rather than from a dealership.

First, before singing the peition, I'd suggest you visit a couple Mazda dealerships and see what they could do for you. It never hurts to try, if you do not get approved, then the next step of action would be the petition.

Flagrum_3
04-27-2012, 12:42 PM
First, before singing the peition, I'd suggest you visit a couple Mazda dealerships and see what they could do for you. It never hurts to try, if you do not get approved, then the next step of action would be the petition.

...and get things in writing! ...it never hurts!

_3

Dave_The_BMXER
04-27-2012, 01:41 PM
Less than 2 hours?

Don't bother honestly.

Flagrum_3
04-27-2012, 05:45 PM
Less than 2 hours?

Don't bother honestly.

You can complete quite abit of taping and spraying in 2 hours lol.


_3

Dave_The_BMXER
04-27-2012, 07:22 PM
Won't somebody think of the children (prep) :P

crystal8484
04-27-2012, 11:18 PM
I know this is for 2004's but mine's only a year older. Had the work done by Mazda Canada and it's back now. And they completely cut the rear wheel wells, welded a new one on and repainted and it's coming back. FML.

Oh well.

Flagrum_3
04-28-2012, 07:59 AM
I know this is for 2004's but mine's only a year older. Had the work done by Mazda Canada and it's back now. And they completely cut the rear wheel wells, welded a new one on and repainted and it's coming back. FML.

Oh well.

I'm guessing you meant newer ;-)

Anyways that sucks, did they give you a warranty with that work? Maybe you can have it resolved.

Anyways met a guy yesterday whilst shopping, with an '05 Hatch same as mine, he was parked next to me. Anyways his car was like completely 'gone' when it comes to rust, it was pathetic! Quarter panels, doors, hatch, everywhere was rusted too shit. He asked me where I got my body work done, lol I felt bad and said I never have I just get her prayed every year and keep her clean. He said he had it sprayed at Krown also??? I just can't figure it out. If it's not the oil-spray then what can be the difference?...Can it just be luck of the draw? Anyways felt bad for the guy, he seemed pretty upset about his car and I don't blame him. A 7 year old car should not be at that point of rusting, it's a shame, nice driving cars but rust to shit.

_3

crystal8484
04-28-2012, 10:57 AM
I'm guessing you meant newer ;-)


_3

haha yeah, I was tired :P
But also, the rust is upsetting. I also have to fix my side rocker. It chipped 3 years ago and now it's grown to be about 2 inches in chipped paint/rust. Easy to fix though as it's just surface rust. It hasn't eaten through the metal at all. I'll be doing that very soon :)

mazdabetty
04-28-2012, 11:43 AM
I know this is for 2004's but mine's only a year older. Had the work done by Mazda Canada and it's back now. And they completely cut the rear wheel wells, welded a new one on and repainted and it's coming back. FML.

Oh well.

Awww boooo that sucks... I was worried at first when I said in my previous post that the body shop guy kept telling me "spend the whole budget on cut and weld or not, the rust is going to come back regardless"... thought afterwards maybe he was trying to make it seen like he was doing me a favour and taking the extra for himself but I guess that confirms he was right.

Brutal!!!! I was looking forward to the next generation Mazda3 but man, the rust is SUCH a turn off... not so sure I'd want to buy one anymore. So sad.

Dave_The_BMXER
04-28-2012, 01:58 PM
I also have to fix my side rocker. It chipped 3 years ago and now it's grown to be about 2 inches in chipped paint/rust. Easy to fix though as it's just surface rust

I just did that lol. Twin cars again.

Impressive
04-28-2012, 02:03 PM
Anyone here with an 06 asking if they are covered, save yourselves some time - the answer is NO.



Brutal!!!! I was looking forward to the next generation Mazda3 but man, the rust is SUCH a turn off... not so sure I'd want to buy one anymore. So sad.

Agreed. I'll have to wait and see if the genpu Speed3s hold up well against rust before I commit to another Mazda, thats for damn sure.

Thrizzl3
04-28-2012, 02:16 PM
haha yeah, I was tired :P
But also, the rust is upsetting. I also have to fix my side rocker. It chipped 3 years ago and now it's grown to be about 2 inches in chipped paint/rust. Easy to fix though as it's just surface rust. It hasn't eaten through the metal at all. I'll be doing that very soon :)

rust is lighter than carbon fiber...weight reduction at its finest

Darkice
04-29-2012, 02:13 AM
just use bondo and ur good sand down the rust bondo it primer paint clearcoat
To both you guys above. Just do it yourself! Believe me it's not that hard, you'll be amazed how fast you pick it up as you go. You'll need to get some supplies at CT or Princess. Instead of me going thru the whole drill here though, just Google it. But you'll want to use fiberglass, bondo....Cheapest way and it can actually turn out not too bad.

Try Youtube- Body work and repair for videos.

Thats my 2c worth.

_3

Flagrum_3
04-29-2012, 05:57 PM
just use bondo and ur good sand down the rust bondo it primer paint clearcoat

And what if you have large openings, after you've rid an area of rust? If your dealing with light surface rust, yes this will work but only if the metal has not been compromised.


_3

jordanewings
05-23-2012, 11:51 PM
would it be smart to consider fixing the rust myself? because i have a 2004 that is developing rust on the rear wheel wells and under the front doors.

bmxnwrx
06-28-2012, 09:04 AM
need to get my car looked at, anyone know how long it takes to get fixed? sorry if its been asked already

Dave_The_BMXER
06-28-2012, 10:42 AM
Both times for me it has taken about a week and a half.

They say a few days but body shops are always slow...

aris
06-28-2012, 02:19 PM
My sister in laws 2008 took a few days all 3 times they took it in for rust repair

Jl0630
06-28-2012, 06:53 PM
I have quite a bit of rust and bubbling on my b pillars, the black trim beside the side windows and it's really bugging me. Anyone know an inexpensive fix for this problem?

bmxnwrx
07-03-2012, 10:12 AM
dave i'll have to get you to check out the car for any other problem areas before i take it in

narcolepticus
08-13-2012, 06:05 PM
had the repairs done twice within a 9 month time frame, the rust is back, not to mention the dealership did a really shitty job, you can see the outline of the piece they put in... the front was going as well and is a lot worse i'll post up pics in a bit

narcolepticus
08-30-2012, 12:55 PM
Passenger Side Rear Quarter:

Here you can see where they failed to get the rear bumper facia straight and true, orange peel and rust poking through and there is no sharpness to the lines.

http://i.imgur.com/SwBTo.jpg

Another view: you can see the shit job they did, rushed it to get me outta there

http://i.imgur.com/Lb3F6.jpg

Driver's Side Rear Quarter:

Check out where the paint is actually cracking and pulling away, facia is not on correctly, uneven "new" panel and rust poking through.

http://i.imgur.com/abtN3.jpg

Another view: absolutely disgusted with this work, my daughter of 18months could have done a better job

Front Passenger Side Fender:

They did not even acknowledge this.

http://i.imgur.com/0mhtZ.jpg

Driver's Side Front Fender:

Unacknowledged

http://i.imgur.com/2QNld.jpg

You would think the second time i had it in to get these problems addressed and repaired properly they would have done a better job. I am NOT a happy customer, nor will ever go back to that dealership (that i have been doing business with for years and have family friends who work there not to mention an uncle who retired from there. Disgusting. They have yet to return my calls, emails and written letters.

My car looks like shit, worse than it did before the first time they did the repair.

zmz3
08-31-2012, 01:17 PM
Passenger Side Rear Quarter:

Here you can see where they failed to get the rear bumper facia straight and true, orange peel and rust poking through and there is no sharpness to the lines.

http://i.imgur.com/SwBTo.jpg

Another view: you can see the shit job they did, rushed it to get me outta there

http://i.imgur.com/Lb3F6.jpg

Driver's Side Rear Quarter:

Check out where the paint is actually cracking and pulling away, facia is not on correctly, uneven "new" panel and rust poking through.

http://i.imgur.com/abtN3.jpg

Another view: absolutely disgusted with this work, my daughter of 18months could have done a better job

Front Passenger Side Fender:

They did not even acknowledge this.

http://i.imgur.com/0mhtZ.jpg

Driver's Side Front Fender:

Unacknowledged

http://i.imgur.com/2QNld.jpg

You would think the second time i had it in to get these problems addressed and repaired properly they would have done a better job. I am NOT a happy customer, nor will ever go back to that dealership (that i have been doing business with for years and have family friends who work there not to mention an uncle who retired from there. Disgusting. They have yet to return my calls, emails and written letters.

My car looks like shit, worse than it did before the first time they did the repair.

This really sucks man. Get the shop to get this covered again, whomever they are or raise it with BBB. It's one thing to do a job to spec, but it's also one thing to do a complete shit job and this is what has happened here.

While Mazda has certain requirements on what needs to be done, this is not the outcome that is expected, I have seen much much better.

Second, the rust on the front fender... this is pretty rare, and I think yours is a case of stone chips, which you probbaly have heard before, but is the ugly truth. Or it could also just have been a really unlucky manufacturing defect... I have seen many Nissan/Inifinit's with similar stuff, but rarely a Mazda3...

Get back to the repair shop and ask for Manager and show him if he would accept such a sub-par, low quality, half assed job on his car! Ridiculious how body some body shops think they can get away with stuff.

All the best,

narcolepticus
08-31-2012, 06:00 PM
I have already filed a complaint with the BBB and have yet to hear so i am going to take that advice and see the manager/owner .. i cringe and am disgusted every time i look at the thing. you aren't supposed to feel that way with a car you love .. and having family that is in the business of restoring old cars and building hot rods this is absolutely unacceptable ..

i'll be at the Heart for Hearth if anyone wants to see for themselves ..

ismail_alikhan
09-11-2012, 11:32 AM
http://www.wheels.ca/feature/mazda-rust-warranty-took-driver-by-surprise/


Link to article in the Star with response from Mazda.

Highlander
09-24-2012, 12:04 AM
I just registered on this forum so I'll share my experience with Mazda. I purchased Mazda 3, 2004 GT automatic transmission, from a private seller e-tested and safety certified for $5,600 (95,000 km). It had rust spots on all four wheel wells as well as in the front, back and sides. I checked out the prices for rust repair at my mechanic and they charge about $350 for a wheel so around $1,400 or more for the full work. An alternative to that they offered to paint the rust spots with black lines thereby creating a new design for cheaper price (about $500). I've decided to repair the rust spots myself. I've purchased base coat color, primer, clear coat, rust converter, grinding wheels (I had a grinder and a drill), fiberglass with hardener and cloth, some regular caulking for water holes. I cleaned up all the rust spots along the body and even spots just under the car (by the doors). The entire work took me about two weeks. I wasn't working or going to school so I had plenty of time to invest in this rust repair work. It turned out not too bad with some of the edges where I repainted and filled up holes with fiberglass. I learned how to do the job by watching YouTube videos and reading stuff on the internet. The entire cost of repair was about $200. It didn't turn out perfectly but I think it was worth it (was my first time doing the rust repair).
The car is fun to drive but a bit more gas hungry than say Honda Civic (I owned that car before purchasing Mazda). The car looks good overall.
After purchasing I took it to my mechanic shop for inspection and it turned out the transmission oil pan was rusted out and leaking. The mechanic replaced the transmission oil pan and changed oil and air filter on it ($240).
Another problem with the car is the CD player skips. I tried playing different CD's but it still skips. I'm thinking about replacing the CD player in it as I like to listen to music in car.
The car also leans a little to the right so I'm planning to take it for realignment.
A check engine light came on one day after I left the car for a day in the parking lot (it was raining). It turned out some kind of gas vapor leakage but my mechanic didn't bother with that and said it's not that important. The check engine light didn't come on ever since.
Overall, a pretty good and reliable fun to drive car. The major issue is the rust. If you don't mind repairing the rust yourself its' worth buying a Mazda.