Time To Go Forged

[BlueStreak]

For those of you who have been following my big turbo build (http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f498/bluestreak-goes-bt-84080/), you will have noticed that recently I hit a bit of a snag. In short, cylinder 3 is down on compression causing serious misfires. Running some diagnostics, it seems like the rings in that cylinder have seized and are no longer properly sealing against the cylinder bore.

Key Pictures (taken today)
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6079/6110434887_640c603493_z.jpg
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6184/6110433397_f39d31d67e_z.jpg


To get at the rings, the entire bloody engine has to come out to replace them since we can't pull the piston/rod combo out the bottom. Even so, that specific cylinder would most likely need to be honed to help the new rings properly seat.

Which brings me here.

Having the engine misfire every single time I hit boost and seeing .35KR through every damn pull was driving me crazy so ignoring was out of question. The fix required lots of surgery so while I was at it, I figured I might as well go forged.

The Forged List
- Wiseco Pistons
- Carillo Rods
- ARP Main/Head Studs
- Cometic Head Gasket
- OEM Bearings
- Assorted Lubes (ARP for the studs, some cam lube and KY for good measure).

Parts were ordered from Stefan at Eagle Motorsport. Customer service is great and PM turn around is incredibly quick.

Engine Builder
The engine builder will be Competition Automotive. They are a full service engine builder (that's all they do) and have been responsible for:
- Building the Porsche engines in the Rothmans Cup
- Servicing (don't know about building) the supercharged K Series motors in the Ariel Atoms for TMI Motorsports.

They took me on a tour of the place and were in the process of building various motors including:
- 2JZ-GTE engine for a Toyota Supra (Car was there and final parts were being installed)
- 2 Dodge Viper engines. One chassis was there with the engine removed.
- Corvette Z06. The intake valves on that head are e.n.o.r.m.o.u.s.
- Various Honda engines.
- Nissan inline 4s. The Silvia motor... I forget the engine code. RB20DETT?
- V12 from an older model Ferrari.
- Various N/A Porsche engines.

Its a really nice place. Heaven for your hardcore engine builders with CNC machines, lathes, kilns, flow bench and other crap which I have no idea what I'm looking at. The smell reminds me of an airplane hangar, though.

Moving along...

Now, here's something interesting. I have been running the CPe SAFE Seals for about 10K KMs now and this is what they look like. Photos are in order from left/right or top/down (cyl 1-2-3-4).

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6087/6110972016_090b6a2d6e_z.jpg
I wiped down injector 4 before taking the picture hence the clean tip.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6208/6110974398_9e8cd97d15_z.jpg

Now here's the head.
Cyl 1
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6206/6110962114_60f211fc2c_z.jpg

Cyl 2
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6210/6110420293_aedfb48978_z.jpg

Cyl 3
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6064/6110967510_326d93aa13_z.jpg

Cyl 4
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6083/6110424927_686fdde51d_z.jpg
Note: The dark area under the injector port was there before I installed the CPe seals. Obviously it was leaking, I just didn't have the good sense to clean it then. Fail.


From time to time when the engine was misfiring (under WOT only), it would throw a CEL. For the most part, it was a P0300 (random cylinder misfire) but on occasion, it would also throw a P0303 (misfire in cylinder 3).

If you look at the seal on injector 3 and cylinder 3 in the head, you'll notice that they are spotless. I'm wondering if this issue was creeping up even before I did the seals. (The seals were done this past March while I was still on the K04). My thoughts are that cylinder pressures in number 3 have been far less than the others for quite some time before the seal install which isn't causing any fuel to sneak past the seal over time.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Teardown has begun in the garage. I have almost gotten to the point where I just have to pull the motor and will finalize things tomorrow. Then I just have to grab a hoist to pull the thing out from the top.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6071/6110976864_d52d3045b8_z.jpg

The engine will be taken apart and all anomalies/findings will be documented here.

Expect a bit of a twist as the build continues. :booty:

Stay tuned,
Dave

[Booter22]

this... is going to become a monster :worship

[Thrizzl3]

ahh you and alex...always up to nooo god lol

[Sean80]

Better invest in a neck brace, you're gonna need it when this is done!!!

[SomeGuy]

How are you going to even be able to put all this power to the road? I mean a speed with just bolt on's has enough power to overwhelm the tires in 1st and 2nd and sometimes going into 3rd...how are you going to deal with that?

[-cj-]

If you're overwhelming the tires in 1st, 2nd and 3rd, with a k04, you probably need better tires. (or stiffer suspension) :chuckle

With an electronic boost controller, you can fine tune the car to ensure you aren't sitting at the line spinning your tires. Same way that the car comes from the factory, but obviously more tweaked.

Dave, you're my hero... Please keep track of all costs and document even non-anomalies :D Step by step would surely help those who might be doing this in the future... :chuckle

The injector leakage puzzles me... It almost seems like your problems can be traced back to the injector seals... Shouldn't the area around the injectors be spotless if the seals are doing their job? (I guess since it wasn't cleaned after replacing the seals, we won't know if it was leaking after the CPe seals). It is interesting that cyl3 doesn't seem to be pulling it's weight. Did you ever try moving the injectors around and seeing if the CEL followed the injectors? (I'm pretty sure you mentioned doing this before?)

[SomeGuy]

cj ... wasn't talking about me personally. Mine with just intake/inlet and a stage 1 accessport OTS map on the stock dunlops will break them loose in 1st and sometimes 2nd if I'm angry lol but I imagine those with a few more mods (say TBE, FP and Stage 2) would have more trouble then me. I just can't imagine running 350-400 whp in one of these cars lol it would be insane.

[BlueStreak]

How are you going to even be able to put all this power to the road? I mean a speed with just bolt on's has enough power to overwhelm the tires in 1st and 2nd and sometimes going into 3rd...how are you going to deal with that?

The Speed's ECU is quite the unit from the factory. It allows us to dial in boost per gear. So, in first gear I can target 10PSI, in second I can target 15PSI and so forth.



Dave, you're my hero... Please keep track of all costs and document even non-anomalies :D Step by step would surely help those who might be doing this in the future... :chuckle

The injector leakage puzzles me... It almost seems like your problems can be traced back to the injector seals... Shouldn't the area around the injectors be spotless if the seals are doing their job? (I guess since it wasn't cleaned after replacing the seals, we won't know if it was leaking after the CPe seals). It is interesting that cyl3 doesn't seem to be pulling it's weight. Did you ever try moving the injectors around and seeing if the CEL followed the injectors? (I'm pretty sure you mentioned doing this before?)

Let me get everything running before we start handing out medals of valor. :chuckle

I'm not sure the injector seals are the blame primarily because if I really turned up the boost, I would get a misfire code in cylinder 3. On top of that, cylinder 3 is down on compression which can cause misfires since air is squeezing past the rings and into the crankcase (and filling my intake with oil... ugh) which throws off fueling for that specific cylinder. If air/fuel was squeezing past the seal in cylinder 3, I would expect large oil discolouration on the block. It was the cleanest of the bunch, though.

At this point, its just speculation though. I'll find out more and let everyone know what's up once the engine gets taken apart.

By the looks of it, the CPe injectors seals don't form a perfect seal at the port since there is that discolouration going up the seal to the injector body. However, the injector itself also forms a seal against the head which prevents further leakage. In conjunction, the seal with the injector body seem to do a pretty good job.

I didn't try moving the injectors around but I did move around the (and stretched) coilpacks.

[Fobio]

hey Dave...I noticed on MSF, it might even have been Dustin, they use RTV seal when installing the injector seals. You think it might help?

[BlueStreak]

I was thinking of doing the same. I will be PMing Dustin when I put everything back together.

[BlueStreak]

*UPDATE*

Spent all of yesterday and part of today getting the motor out. The hardest part by far was removing the driver's side axle from the transmission. I ended up separating the block from the tranny on the ground then pulling the engine out. I'll have to get some sort of tool to pry the damn axle off. Stubborn as hell.

Mop holding up the hood? NATOR Toronto represent. :headbang
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6186/6117394572_74ca36d217_b.jpg

Where the engine used to be.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6202/6117397528_e223dd928c_b.jpg

Alex out Pedobearing the Pedobear.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6078/6117428632_7eec25d5b4_b.jpg

I'm currently removing all the peripherals from the block and will be bringing it to Competition Automotive tomorrow. They're quite busy at the moment and expect to get started on the machining in about two weeks.

[Kappa]

sub... because i want to be apart of this madness of a build

[Fobio]

dave...you gotta take the obligatory "I took the engine out so I can sit in the engine bay myself" pic...

[Kiyomi]

looks good, cant wait to c final product, in time for nxt cscs event?

[BlueStreak]

dave...you gotta take the obligatory "I took the engine out so I can sit in the engine bay myself" pic...

I'll get one as soon as there's someone else to hold the camera. Besides, I look like hell right now. I gotta powder my face.


looks good, cant wait to c final product, in time for nxt cscs event?

Unfortunately, no. I'm done for the season. This is going to take a while. I'm hoping to be back online in October.

[-cj-]

dave...you gotta take the obligatory "I took the engine out so I can sit in the engine bay myself" pic...


LOL, I said the exact same thing over on MSF, I swear I just saw this...

[-cj-]

I'll get one as soon as there's someone else to hold the camera. Besides, I look like hell right now. I gotta powder my face.

Sounds like you could use an extra hand! Now that It looks like your engine is out, do you need some help man?! =)

All kidding aside, if you need an extra hand lemme know! I'm back soon.

[BlueStreak]

Engine is packaged and ready to go. The boys over at Competition Automotive reallllllyyy wanted to take the engine apart themselves so they can study its story. It's their first ever MZR build so they're excited. Once the engine is in pieces, they will be calling me in and will report on what the teardown revealed.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6063/6118038617_77d6cdcab1_b.jpg

I will also be leaving specific instructions on what I'd like measured and looked at so I can report back to the forums with respect to the health of my motor and the MZR DISI in general.


Sounds like you could use an extra hand! Now that It looks like your engine is out, do you need some help man?! =)

All kidding aside, if you need an extra hand lemme know! I'm back soon.

You got it, Jerry.

[Fobio]

LOL, I said the exact same thing over on MSF, I swear I just saw this...

lol...now I see your post over on MSF...GTFO my head!...

Dave: you gonna do the MAP sensor too soon?

[BlueStreak]

As soon as it gets here, it's going in. I just have to find the right plug on the harness to cut now. Its off a GIANT harness from the ECU plugs all the way to the alternator.

[-cj-]

LOL @ Fobio. Great minds and all that.

Dave, what I was thinking is, buy a cheapie map sensor and destroy it. Use it as a harness/plug.

1) Broken map plugs into oem harness, leaving exposed pins for soldering.

2) The actual harness that can be bought online gets soldered in the right order to broken map end.

3) other end of harness plugs into new upgraded map sensor.

That's how I see it going down in my head. You're obviously looking at it. Do you think it's doable?

[BlueStreak]

Ah so you don't want to cut out the OEM plug?

I'll have a look at the harness after work today and will upload a photo.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kappa]

this is sweet.. you should see if they will take some snaps of the engine rebuild.. would be cool to see what they do

[BlueStreak]

I'll look into that. I'm interested as well.

[-cj-]

Yup. I hate cutting things if I can avoid it. If this method works, it'll be a pricey plug and play option.

[Kappa]

I'll look into that. I'm interested as well.

sweet keep me posted i would love to do a little write up for Mod for life

[BlueStreak]

sweet keep me posted i would love to do a little write up for Mod for life

That would be neat.

[BlueStreak]

Yup. I hate cutting things if I can avoid it. If this method works, it'll be a pricey plug and play option.

Since my harness is out, I'm just going to solder it in, throw some shrink wrap tubing over the joints and call it a day. I've come to a point where stocking out won't be an option if I sell the car (don't want to, really) so might as well.

I'm sure you could solder yours in and make it look clean if you wanted. It would just be a little tricky getting at the MAP sensor from within the engine bay. Come to think of it, you could pull out the harness far enough to solder it from a more convenient location without unplugging too many connectors from the engine.

EDIT: I'll post a picture of the harness showing the location of the MAP sensor connector relative to the rest when I get some free time.

[BlueStreak]

Alright, here's the location of the MAP sensor connector in relation to the primary harness. (see red boxes)

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6182/6125359293_69a1b2fb49_z.jpg
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6080/6125904094_9be339ab17_z.jpg
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6081/6125903776_da480ae256_z.jpg

With the IM off, all you have to do is unplug the crank position sensor, alternator, power steering and VVT connector and you should be able to get the MAP sensor connector up high enough that you can work with it.

[BlueStreak]

*MINOR UPDATE*

Some parts have slowly started trickling in. This is a Bosch 3BAR MAP sensor.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6208/6130223337_186791c4e7_z.jpg

Replacing the stock 2.5BAR MAP sensor with this new unit will allow the ECU to "see" boost up to 30PSI (as opposed to ~22-23PSI). As a result, it allows me to turn up the boost but more importantly, utilize some of the safety features built into the ECU like boost cut and load cut.

Once the connector for the new sensor comes in, I'll be splicing it onto the harness. Shouldn't be too difficult since the harness isn't in the car. :chuckle

Stefan at Eagle Motorsport is still waiting on all the engine internals to come in so he can ship them out. Hopefully I won't have to wait too long.

[SpelingChampian]

*drooool*

Now you just need to come done to Montreal and help me lol!

[BlueStreak]

Haha. It's a little far.

I definitely would've lent a hand if you were still local.

[BlueStreak]

Engine teardown starts tomorrow. Photos of carnage will follow as soon as they're available. :bana

[BlueStreak]

So I didn't get a call from Competition Automotive to come inspect the engine. I can only assume they didn't get around to it. Anyways...

*drumroll*
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6178/6145605873_d3d7455f52_z.jpg

- No that isn't the engine from my Speed.
- Yes it is a Speed engine.
- Yes it is mine.
- Yes its getting forged.
- Yes it'll be an exact replica of mine.
- Yes it'll be up for sale for a fair price once its built.

Cheers,
Dave

[iGOzoom]

So you have 2 speed engines? lol :loco

Definitely can't wait to see the end result and the numbers this thing pulls.

[SomeGuy]

So you have 2 speed engines? lol :loco

Definitely can't wait to see the end result and the numbers this thing pulls.

Clearly he's going to mount one engine up front and one in the rear and then do 4 wheel drive.

[BlueStreak]

I'm thinking of starting a collection and will run one depending on: desired power, boost, time of day, weather, what kind of underwear I chose (thong = engine with pink valve cover) and how many times I sneezed that morning.

:P:chuckle

[taz4432]

So, to clarify, you're doing 2 identically built engines - all componentry being the same between them?

Did you score some kind of wicked deal on parts or do you just know that Fobio will want one ;)

[BlueStreak]

Correct. Both with be exactly the same; save for mine having a red anodized MazdaSpeed oil cap on the valve cover and the second one having the black plastic one. :P

There's a bit of a volume discount from approaching an engine builder and saying "I'll take two of everything, please."

[taz4432]

Correct. Both with be exactly the same; save for mine having a red anodized MazdaSpeed oil cap on the valve cover and the second one having the black plastic one. :P

There's a bit of a volume discount from approaching an engine builder and saying "I'll take two of everything, please."

Typically the discont for buying '2 of everything' is negligible at best, from my experience and that of others I know. Besides, the labour is just double what one engine would cost...maybe a slight discount. Maybe you were just paying super marked up prices :P Haha...either way, just keep one engine as a spare.

Actually, I think it would be better to spend the money getting your head done up too. How sweet would it be to be able to rev to 10k reliably all day long? :D Throw on a GT35R and you would have a RIDICULOUS beast.

[BlueStreak]

Typically the discont for buying '2 of everything' is negligible at best, from my experience and that of others I know. Besides, the labour is just double what one engine would cost...maybe a slight discount. Maybe you were just paying super marked up prices :P Haha...either way, just keep one engine as a spare.

Actually, I think it would be better to spend the money getting your head done up too. How sweet would it be to be able to rev to 10k reliably all day long? :D Throw on a GT35R and you would have a RIDICULOUS beast.

Ssshhhh... Don't go stealing my thunder. ;)

Aside from that, there's no way we could rev this engine to 10K RPM because the engine is direct injected. We would need secondary fueling to make it happen. On top of that, this is a long stroke motor so it produces alot of torque and generally doesn't rev very high.

[rzapata]

Any chance of you taking one engine to the absolute tuning limits??? :) Go up to 600 horses (if it's even possible).. :)

[BlueStreak]

I definitely won't be doing it.

There is a huge expense involved prepping a setup to hit 600hp beyond a forged engine and a bigger turbo. The engine(s) I'm building would be able to support that, though.

[loki]

Any chance of you taking one engine to the absolute tuning limits??? :) Go up to 600 horses (if it's even possible).. :)

you hiding a money tree somewhere?

can you spare me a cutting so I can grow my own too?

lol

[Darkice]

Lol like really , id spare me a tree to , id like to turbo my mazda to , sleeper sedan 3 no one would recognise it llol



you hiding a money tree somewhere?

can you spare me a cutting so I can grow my own too?

lol

[rzapata]

you hiding a money tree somewhere?

can you spare me a cutting so I can grow my own too?

lol

I wish I did!! Imagine the freedom.......:drool :chuckle Just an idea that's all.. All these Fast & Furious is getting to my head. Haha!

[BlueStreak]

So I swung by the shop to have a look at my motor all dismantled and was taken to the back where the magic happens. Overall, the guy that took it apart said that the motor was quite clean and in very good shape.

First off, we stopped by the head. It was completely taken apart. Everything looked normal. No pictures yet.

Then, we went over to the pistons and conrods.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6166/6148266059_df9868ed7e_b.jpg

His words. "I was hot tanking the motor and everything looked fine; couldn't see anything wrong with it. Then we noticed this..."

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6078/6148264781_72619ef2b1_b.jpg
Do you see it?

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6180/6148267233_c95675e17d_b.jpg
How about now?

Yessir, a 2" chunk of the ring land in cylinder 3 cracked right off. It was held in between the rings the entire time. At this point, I thought "OH shit! My bore is fooked!" But no, it was perfectly fine. Thank the car gods...

So, a back track now. If you look at my injector seals, cylinder 3 is perfectly clean (with additional loss of compression which was due to the cracked ring land). I installed the seals back in March 2011 and have put the car through its paces including WOT runs, multiple tuning runs with the K04 and the GT3071, autocross and time attack. I can almost bet a limb that this issue was festering before that and really became evident once the big turbo went in. Like I said before, the engine idled perfectly and drove around town without a hitch. It was only until recently that the engine started misfiring with the big turbo under WOT.

I am damn glad that piston held up for so long (however long that was - maybe it was a progressive failure). It could've really done some damage and I could've been shopping around for a new block. I am keeping that piston as a memento at my office.

Competition Automotive will be taking photographs of everything and documenting bore size, rings etc. More info to come on the torn down motor!

Dave

EDIT: I will also be putting up the rest of the piston/rod combos for sale at $40 a pop as some cool paper weights. Stay tuned.

[taz4432]

I definitely won't be doing it.

There is a huge expense involved prepping a setup to hit 600hp beyond a forged engine and a bigger turbo. The engine(s) I'm building would be able to support that, though.

Actually...there's really not. Built motor + a bigger turbo is 75% of the way there. All you really need after that is the fuel system capable and perhaps upgraded cooling (FMIC), both of which I believe you have already. You also already have the upgraded exhaust, etc. so it's not an issue.

Hitting 600HP really isn't all that hard, at least not with any engine worth spending money on ;)

You did get pretty lucky with the ringland...put that on a necklace or hang it somewhere =P

[BlueStreak]

Actually...there's really not. Built motor + a bigger turbo is 75% of the way there. All you really need after that is the fuel system capable and perhaps upgraded cooling (FMIC), both of which I believe you have already. You also already have the upgraded exhaust, etc. so it's not an issue.

Hitting 600HP really isn't all that hard, at least not with any engine worth spending money on ;)

You did get pretty lucky with the ringland...put that on a necklace or hang it somewhere =P

Let's crunch some numbers.

In the world of turbos, the GT3071R is medium-big sized. In the world of big turbos, mine barely makes the cut. So, a legitimate big turbo will be needed. Expect to pay $1200-1500 on that alone.

Then, you'll need a manifold with a T3 or T4 flange and preferably twin scroll so you can have the turbo spooling before you fall asleep. $1k

Add to that, twin wastegates and dump tubes. $1k

Because the turbo is so large, I would recommend a 4" downpipe and exhaust. $1.5k

Next, let's look at the head. Stock, ours flows like crap. Between labour, off the shelf parts and custom pieces, you're looking at $2k+ before cams.

Most aftemarket companies won't even touch our cams because of the direct injection lobe on the intake cam. Nonetheless, one offs have been made here and there. $750+

To get the proper airflow out of a turbo to push 600whp, you'll need to raise the redline considerably as we only have a 2.3L engine. This has implications for fueling as the injection window decreases as revs increase. You'll need larger or at least ported injectors. Larger ones haven't been found for our platform and only a few will port a direct injection injector. $$$

Now we're in bleeding edge territory... $$$$$$$

Assuming you could source a reliable larger or ported injector, you'll need a pressure relief valve that supports ~2300psi. Custom ones have been made but have failed recently. $$$

Even so, you would need to run a port injection system with an extra fuel rail, injectors, pump, controller etc. to provide the additional fuel necessary to reach the target goal. $$$

FMIC shouldn't be too expensive but expect to pay 1k for a core and pipe setup made by you that can support the additional airflow for 600hp. It has to be very large with at least 3" piping.

Then there's the clutch. None exists for our platform for that much power. $$$

And finally, replacing all the stuff that will inevitably break as a result of pushing other stock parts way past their limits. $$$ I know a guy with a 2g DSM who split his transmission case open at 500awhp despite the car having a reputation for making big power. Stuff breaks.

This is in addition to all the parts already on the car.

Definitely not 75% of the way there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MajesticBlueNTO]

Let's crunch some numbers. ...
Definitely not 75% of the way there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

shit man, you typed that all on your iPhone!?!

[BlueStreak]

shit man, you typed that all on your iPhone!?!

Sadly, yes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[fywdyl]

Let's crunch some numbers.

In the world of turbos, the GT3071R is medium-big sized. In the world of big turbos, mine barely makes the cut. So, a legitimate big turbo will be needed. Expect to pay $1200-1500 on that alone.

Then, you'll need a manifold with a T3 or T4 flange and preferably twin scroll so you can have the turbo spooling before you fall asleep. $1k

Add to that, twin wastegates and dump tubes. $1k

Because the turbo is so large, I would recommend a 4" downpipe and exhaust. $1.5k

Next, let's look at the head. Stock, ours flows like crap. Between labour, off the shelf parts and custom pieces, you're looking at $2k+ before cams.

Most aftemarket companies won't even touch our cams because of the direct injection lobe on the intake cam. Nonetheless, one offs have been made here and there. $750+

To get the proper airflow out of a turbo to push 600whp, you'll need to raise the redline considerably as we only have a 2.3L engine. This has implications for fueling as the injection window decreases as revs increase. You'll need larger or at least ported injectors. Larger ones haven't been found for our platform and only a few will port a direct injection injector. $$$

Now we're in bleeding edge territory... $$$$$$$

Assuming you could source a reliable larger or ported injector, you'll need a pressure relief valve that supports ~2300psi. Custom ones have been made but have failed recently. $$$

Even so, you would need to run a port injection system with an extra fuel rail, injectors, pump, controller etc. to provide the additional fuel necessary to reach the target goal. $$$

FMIC shouldn't be too expensive but expect to pay 1k for a core and pipe setup made by you that can support the additional airflow for 600hp. It has to be very large with at least 3" piping.

Then there's the clutch. None exists for our platform for that much power. $$$

And finally, replacing all the stuff that will inevitably break as a result of pushing other stock parts way past their limits. $$$ I know a guy with a 2g DSM who split his transmission case open at 500awhp despite the car having a reputation for making big power. Stuff breaks.

This is in addition to all the parts already on the car.

Definitely not 75% of the way there.




Sounds like a Mastercard commercial...

"Still not being able to hit 600whp and having your car blow up, priceless."

[SomeGuy]

The other thing is how practical is 600hp in a fwd platform anyway? I mean at that point he might as well do an awd conversion too.

[n00bMeiSter]

I'm thinking of starting a collection and will run one depending on: desired power, boost, time of day, weather, what kind of underwear I chose (thong = engine with pink valve cover) and how many times I sneezed that morning.

:P:chuckle

This right here is key.

:chuckle


This looks like it's going to be a crazy ass build!

[loki]

shit man, you typed that all on your iPhone!?!

dude, I couldn't even read it on my blackberry. I had to come into the office to read it on full size monitor.

and I've seen Dave's fingers. they're not small. that's some serious skills right there my friend, or you've got the autocorrect on the iphone mastered!

[BlueStreak]

I'm skilled with my hands.

Hide your wives and (age appropriate) sisters!

[stevenma188]

Ahaha this is an epic build. When your done, come give me a hand with my M50 into E30 swap :)

[BlueStreak]

I'm thinking after this, I won't want to pick up a tool for the whole damn winter!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Those passages on the left are getting mighty large, don't you think? :chuckle
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6163/6151665324_341b467980_b.jpg

Hmmm... I wonder what's going to happen here?
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6169/6151666396_a2bd2f0a61_b.jpg

[loki]

you port and polishing these yourselves?

[BlueStreak]

Definitely not. This is being done at competition automotive.


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[BlueStreak]

Gents,

The engine is coming apart as I type this. If you want to swing by and have a look, text me at 647.272.8440.

Dave


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Darkice]

What area do u live in ?


Gents,

The engine is coming apart as I type this. If you want to swing by and have a look, text me at 647.272.8440.

Dave


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[-cj-]

I got a chance to see the engine.. Dave makes it look, and sound, as simple as changing ones oil. ;)

Good luck with the build buddy.... Can't wait to see this monster up and running. You've got some really cool ideas!!

[BlueStreak]

Thanks, Jerry.

Engine pr0n pictures coming later today.

I'm in Richmond Hill btw :-)


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[Darkice]

Not to far im in brampton , lol engine pron pics, one day il come by this is a interestimg build



Thanks, Jerry.

Engine pr0n pictures coming later today.

I'm in Richmond Hill btw :-)


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[BlueStreak]

As promised. Engine pr0n.

Keep in mind, this is the second motor. My motor was taken apart by Competition Automotive.

Overall, this engine is in great shape. Pity it had to be dismantled. :D
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6186/6158564455_7a41db8d84_b.jpg

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6177/6159106898_97d69e40cd_b.jpg

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6066/6159109450_fd23170de9_b.jpg

The piston tops had your typical carbon build up. When I say typical, I mean moreso with direct injection as this motor has maybe 50,000KM on it. Whoever buys this, I will stress the importance of running an oil catch can. The majority of the buildup can be attributed to the PCV system.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6210/6158571773_035845de85_b.jpg

Cheers,
Dave

[bubba1983]

piston coolers? sweet

[BlueStreak]

Teh pr0nz is trickling in.

Ported and polished intake manifold. Painted standard aluminum colour.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6169/6164045999_97ea0a741a_b.jpg

Note to self. Next time, when JB welding meth nozzles to manifold, remove manifold from racecar.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6180/6164043379_e04d5cf442_b.jpg

Botched JB weld job aside. It is sexy.

And because MS3 pr0n isn't enough. Behold a twinscroll setup for a MKIV Toyota Supra Turbo. The Supra is on the hoist in the background above the Viper. Sadly, you can't see the supra at all in this shot.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6160/6164044777_39118e6105_b.jpg

Dave

[Mr Wilson]

Thanks for all the pics!

:worship the Supra setup

[BlueStreak]

*UPDATE*

So, here's a list of the things that they will be doing to the bottom end:
- Jet clean cylinder block
- Crankshaft install trial assembly #1 piston and rod to deck and compression ratio check
- Bore cylinder block
- Hone cylinder block
- Balance/Blueprint crank to piston/rod combo for each individual cylinder. *very important*
- File fit piston rings
- Micro polish crankshaft journals and jetclean crankshaft for final assembly.

Now some more pr0n. Exhaust side is being gasket matched which should mate beautifully to the steedspeed manifold.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6162/6171966729_aa314ceb7b_b.jpg

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6167/6172496994_4448b8ee2a_b.jpg

Dave

[stevenma188]

HAWTNESS!

[SpelingChampian]

Mmm, the 2JZ is becoming more and more tempting...

[BlueStreak]

Mmm, the 2JZ is becoming more and more tempting...

DO IT

[MajesticBlueNTO]

Mmm, the 2JZ is becoming more and more tempting...

overnight parts from japan!

[Fobio]

Obligatory 2JZ swap with NOS pic.

http://www.news-cars-insight.info/images/2jz-swap%20(1).jpg

[CoolColombian]

Mmm, the 2JZ is becoming more and more tempting...


There you go; 2JZ (http://toronto.kijiji.ca/f-2jz-engine-cars-vehicles-auto-parts-tires-engine-engine-parts-W0QQCatIdZ318QQKeywordZ2jzQ20engine)

[r4BBiT]

This is going to be one sick build. Jealous :P

[n00bMeiSter]

Why 2JZ over other motors? Why not an RB30, or an R33 or something?

[BlueStreak]

*UPDATE*
Swung by Competition Automotive to speak with them about some work to be done.

Head pr0n below.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6167/6186965480_fa734635c6_b.jpg

Intake port from the manifold side.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6157/6186440061_eec2e417e5_b.jpg

Intake port from the chamber side.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6169/6186439001_5663e5a71e_b.jpg

Exhaust port from the manifold side.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6161/6186961290_717de9cfbb_b.jpg

Exaust port from the chamber side.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6177/6186435987_1899c61a56_b.jpg

And a little preview of what's to come.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6177/6186443527_7c9037fbf2_b.jpg

Cheers,
Dave

[speed77]

Just curious, are you planning to leave the intake ports with the "rough" texture from the sanding rolls? With port injected motors this seems to be the standard practice to help maintain atomization of fuel in the ports. With the direct injection motors, would mirror polished ports help prevent some of the build up commonly found in the ports and valves?

[SpelingChampian]

I see the light at the end of the tunnel (or ports lol)! Looking sweet!!

[Kiyomi]

awesome stuff!

[bunchi]

will be tuning in to this one too... good luck on the build! :headbang

[BlueStreak]

Thank you gents.


Just curious, are you planning to leave the intake ports with the "rough" texture from the sanding rolls? With port injected motors this seems to be the standard practice to help maintain atomization of fuel in the ports. With the direct injection motors, would mirror polished ports help prevent some of the build up commonly found in the ports and valves?

Yep, the intake ports will remain rough as this method allows for better airflow over smooth passages. Exhaust ports are always a mirror finish though to reduce the possibility of soot buildup.

Think of the rough finish on the intake port as a golf ball. Golf balls are dimpled so they fly farther and faster through the air. There was also an episode on myth busters where they covered cars in clay then dimpled the entire exterior; fuel mileage improved drastically.

[n00bMeiSter]

What's the purple stuff on the manifold?

[BlueStreak]

It's marker or some type of ink.

What they do is colour around the ports and overlay the appropriate gasket. Once the gasket is centered, they scribe in the outline of the gasket to give them a starting point to open up the ports.

Once they're done, they clean off the ink.


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[speed77]

What's the purple stuff on the manifold?

I think they call it "Machinist's Dye" or something to that effect. Comes in a spray can, I've always seen it blue, first time I've seen it purple

....water, sugar, purple :chuckle :chuckle

[loki]

I think they call it "Machinist's Dye" or something to that effect. Comes in a spray can, I've always seen it blue, first time I've seen it purple

....water, sugar, purple :chuckle :chuckle

yeh it's just the "purple stuff" from the Sunny Delight commercials.

[VectorForFood]

I don't know near enough about cars to truly understand what the hell is going on... I just know ME WANT

[BlueStreak]

*UPDATE*

Christmas has come.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6154/6192255255_5240dee45a_b.jpg

Wiseco Pistons in the nude.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6024/6192252719_9d8f99c0a3_b.jpg

Carillo H-Beams semi in the nude. Good for 1000hp ftw! Haha.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6167/6192254147_8028359a1c_b.jpg

Thanks again to Stefan for the parts hookup.

[rzapata]

Lovin your thread sir! :thumbsup How much for all those stuff? They look a lot smoother than the stock pistons. :) Good stuff I say!

[BlueStreak]

Thanks. Glad you like it :-)

I'm keeping prices on the down-low. It's a pretty high-profile build so the cost is up there :-)

[rzapata]

Thanks. Glad you like it :-)

I'm keeping prices on the down-low. It's a pretty high-profile build so the cost is up there :-)

Fair enough. :) I can't wait to see what the finish product will be. I guess there should be a new name for your car once it's been completed. Mazdaspeed3 becomes MazdaSUPERspeed3. :thumbsup

[SpelingChampian]

Smexyyyyyyy!

[BlueStreak]

Damn you, Alex. This is all your fault.

- "Dave, build your motor blah blah blah."
- "No way am I doing that shit..."

Here I am...

[Darkice]

very interesting build cant wait to see the end product, i wanna build my car and but a turbo in it but not sure..

[loki]

Damn you, Alex. This is all your fault.

- "Dave, build your motor blah blah blah."
- "No way am I doing that shit..."

Here I am...

and then fate intervened and said "F@ck you cylinder No.3"

and here you are...

[Fack_Dude]

very interesting build cant wait to see the end product, i wanna build my car and but a turbo in it but not sure..

trade your car in for a speed........

[SpelingChampian]

Damn you, Alex. This is all your fault.

- "Dave, build your motor blah blah blah."
- "No way am I doing that shit..."

Here I am...

LOL - I'm in the same boat cause of you!

[BlueStreak]

and then fate intervened and said "F@ck you cylinder No.3"

and here you are...

*sigh* Yes...


very interesting build cant wait to see the end product, i wanna build my car and but a turbo in it but not sure..


trade your car in for a speed........

Agreed. The easiest way to turbocharge a car is to start with a turbocharged car. Doesn't have to be a Speed. It'll save you ALOT of hassle in the long run.

[BlueStreak]

LOL - I'm in the same boat cause of you!

Pfft... What did I do? :P

[Darkice]

naw id rather be steathy by ppl not knowing theres a turbo in it ;)


trade your car in for a speed........

[loki]

naw id rather be steathy by ppl not knowing theres a turbo in it ;)

this thread has gone temporarily off topic, however to answer the whole stealthy thing.

The majority of the public using the roads have no idea what a mazdaspeed3 or mazdaspeed6 is. This is evidenced by the fact that I made some ass in a prelude eat my dust the other day as he was trying to push me up the road. really...push me? Vtack Vfack

secondly, those that do know what a speed3 is can barely tell the difference between a speed3 and a regular 3 anyway, and this is made harder by the fact that everyone with their 3 hatch just makes it look like a speed3. I'm not calling them posers because at the end of the day, I like the styling of the speed3 and the hatch is essentially the same car with a smaller hood, so it looks good. Not like they're adding fake front mount intercoolers or anything.

It comes down to this: a turbocharged car was made to be turbocharged and and a N/A car isn't, so just bolting on a turbo isn't ideal as Bluestreak has already pointed out. And I have already done a junkyard turbocharging project on one of the first cars I owned and the result is that car is in a junkyard as much fun as it was for a short period of time. It's just not worth the hassle, but not to say it can't be done, as there are a few out there who have bolted a turbo to their 3, you just have to fork out the funds to do it right and safely (we're talking 5 grand plus here and that's on the low side)

But I have realized that saying you're thinking of putting a turbo on your car is quite the trend right now...

Anyway, enough threadjacking. It's taking away from this masterpiece of a car that Bluestreak is developing. If you want further information, then creat a thread with the title - "GI : should I turbocharge my 3 sedan?" and I will be thoroughly entertained by the responses. Please do it.

back on topic.

[BlueStreak]

^^^ This.

Now back on topic.


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[Kiyomi]

haha looks like christmas, easter, halloween, new years, and bday came early!!! :D

[BlueStreak]

*MINI UPDATE*

In addition to the pistons/rods I picked up, I ordered this.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6172/6205898049_4aafa5f5f3_b.jpg
CXRacing Heat Exchanger for L2AIC setup.

Mounted.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6029/6205858095_1724470cca_b.jpg
I had to mount it upside down to provide better clearance. I didn't want to cut the crash bar so part of the under tray will have to be trimmed.

It looks like a front mount!
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6157/6205860519_11997dc9e1_b.jpg

The L2AIC was shipped later as CXRacing didn't have it in stock. I'll post more pictures as soon as I get it.

[BlueStreak]

*MINI UPDATE*
The first block is ready to be bored and honed. Work will start tomorrow.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6059/6217776943_a2d89edc14_b.jpg
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6227/6218296532_a4f05cf7e3_b.jpg

Valvecovers, oil pans and tensioner covers have been cleaned and are ready for powdercoating.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6052/6217778403_efab7042f9_b.jpg

It's been a little over a month since I pulled my motor and the build began. Things are progressing rather quickly!

Dave

[TheMAN]

Thank you gents.



Yep, the intake ports will remain rough as this method allows for better airflow over smooth passages. Exhaust ports are always a mirror finish though to reduce the possibility of soot buildup.

Think of the rough finish on the intake port as a golf ball. Golf balls are dimpled so they fly farther and faster through the air. There was also an episode on myth busters where they covered cars in clay then dimpled the entire exterior; fuel mileage improved drastically.

any benefits are useless once your intake ports build up with crap like many direct injected motors... just ask how thrilled VW/Audi owners are seafoaming their 2.0T motors every oil change
if I were you, I'd get everything smooth as baby's bottom just to be on the safe side

[Booostin]

:drool

[BlueStreak]

any benefits are useless once your intake ports build up with crap like many direct injected motors... just ask how thrilled VW/Audi owners are seafoaming their 2.0T motors every oil change
if I were you, I'd get everything smooth as baby's bottom just to be on the safe side

That won't be an issue. Stay tuned :-)

[BlueStreak]

*MINI UPDATE*

After installing a fellow TM3 member's Stage 2 Snow Performance Kit, I fell in love with the simplicity and functionality of the meth controller.

On a side note, this TM3 member went on to make the highest stock turbo whp figure on last Saturday's dyno day with some love from an MSpeed tune and meth :D:chuckle

Back on track here...

And so began the hunt for said controller...

Behold, a MAP/MAF based methanol injection controller!

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6163/6232508301_b945ff674d_b.jpg
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6214/6233027780_13251c5a83_b.jpg

This is the BEST type of setup you can have especially for people flowing high volumes of meth. MAP based are good but MAF is better IMO; hands down.

With this kind of tunability comes a very very large caveat. Setting the start spray value to a meth voltage equivalent to idle or less WILL cause you to spray meth at idle and possibly grenade your motor. Use with caution.

[SpelingChampian]

STAGE 3!!!

[BlueStreak]

I wanted to buy yours but you got rid of it before I could grab it :P

[BlueStreak]

*MINI UPDATE*

Some bad news.

Last week, Competition Automotive sent down a set of valves, springs, retainers etc to Ferrea for measurement and production for the two motors. The plan was to go with oversized valves on the exhaust side. Turns out, on mild builds (my build is considered mild. Haha), going with a larger exhaust valve will decrease exhaust gas velocity and slow down turbo spool, according to the rep at Ferrea. Furthermore, we were told that I may not see the gains I was expecting unless I went with a 700hp build.

So, I decided not to oversize anything. On top of that, since I wasn't going to put an aftermarket exhaust valve (if I did do the exhaust side, I would've put in OEM sized intake valves as well), I decided to leave the valves all stock.

Which brought me to the next hurdle; springs. I wanted to upgrade the springs so the head would be ready for cams whenever they get released by whomever. Well, Ferrea doesn't make springs for our head (as most of you know) and only makes them in batches of 300. Long story short, I'll upgrade the springs/retainers when I drop the cam in. I'm aware Supertech makes parts that can be swapped in but meh.

Even longer story short. The build just got quite a bit cheaper in the short run but less cool. Both heads will be fully ported and polished with a multi-angle valvejob, stock valvetrain and a DCR VVT actuator to tie things off.

Dave

[Mr Wilson]

Sad to hear you aren't just going to go with the 700hp build.

Any updates on the oil/oil pump issue?

[rzapata]

When you say larger valves, do you mean the actual diameter of the thing?

[BlueStreak]

If I went with a 700hp build, the car wouldn't be streetable. I'd also get pissed off at all the turbo lag the car would have. But before all that, I'd go bankrupt trying to get there. Haha.

The goal was always much less than that. It'll still be stinkin fast just not "make you crap your pants because of the g-forces acting on your intestines fast".

With respect to the oil, I'll go with a 5w40 or 5w50. There are some forged guys running 5w40 without issue so I should be good.



When you say larger valves, do you mean the actual diameter of the thing?

Correct. Larger valves = more airflow in and out of the cylinder.

[SpelingChampian]

If I went with a 700hp build, the car wouldn't be streetable. I'd also get pissed off at all the turbo lag the car would have. But before all that, I'd go bankrupt trying to get there. Haha.

The goal was always much less than that. It'll still be stinkin fast just not "make you crap your pants because of the g-forces acting on your intestines fast".

With respect to the oil, I'll go with a 5w40 or 5w50. There are some forged guys running 5w40 without issue so I should be good.




Correct. Larger valves = more airflow in and out of the cylinder.

Do 700hp :D

Then we can BOTH have unstreetable cars lol!

[Mr Wilson]

The lag would be epic (is that word still cool?)....wait for it, wait for it, wait for it, wait for it, wait for it, tire smoke.

[BlueStreak]

If you choose the right engine (HINT HINT :P), yours will be much more streetable than mine could ever be at 700hp.

[rzapata]

Correct. Larger valves = more airflow in and out of the cylinder.

Why not go with larger valves on both sides? I guess the reason why you would lose air velocity is due to the unbalanced flow of air in the intake and exhaust (intake being smaller than the exhaust). Or am I just babbling here... :)

This is going to be LEGEN..... wait for it.....




DARY!! :chuckle

[BlueStreak]

The intake valves are so close together that there wasn't enough room between the two for the builder to feel comfortable that I wouldn't have any problems.

In terms of flow, there are flow bench numbers that show the exhaust side being a limitation at a certain lift on the cam.

[BlueStreak]

Here's some info from a vendor that chimed in after I posted on MSF.


Ferrea is correct. If you oversize your exhaust valves and port that side of the head you will be losing exhaust velocity which will harm spool time on your turbo and push your curve right. However velocity only makes up about 20% of the energy to spool a turbo the rest comes from heat energy about 80%. The benefit to increasing your exhaust valve side would be more flow in higher rpms. This could also be over come by increasing the A/R of your turbine housing. Long story short your saving money and doing the right thing by not touching the head right now.

[rzapata]

Hmm, I guess "Bigger is Better" does not always apply. :)

[BlueStreak]

*MINI UPDATE*

It turns out the exhaust valve guides are worn on both motors (possibly something to look out for on all MZR DISIs). Since we are sticking the stock valvetrain, I need OEM guides to replace them; 16 in total (2x8=16).

Unfortunately, there aren't anymore in North America and they are back ordered to the end of the month.

Effing road blocks.

[SpelingChampian]

*MINI UPDATE*

It turns out the exhaust valve guides are worn on both motors (possibly something to look out for on all MZR DISIs). Since we are sticking the stock valvetrain, I need OEM guides to replace them; 16 in total (2x8=16).

Unfortunately, there aren't anymore in North America and they are back ordered to the end of the month.

Effing road blocks.

Urgh - hopefully it gets sorted soon!

[BlueStreak]

About 40 mins ago, I got a call from the powdercoaters. The stuff was ready. I decided it was a good time to take a break from work and drove over. ;)

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6119/6260985717_5fafbe9998_b.jpg

Not too shabby!

[rzapata]

Very nice! Not too shabby at all sir. :thumbsup

[n00bMeiSter]

Damn that looks nice!

[CelestSpeed3]

What's wrong with Supertech?


Are the blocks and heads going to be black as well?

[BlueStreak]

What's wrong with Supertech?
Nothing. It just doesn't make me excited in my jeans :-P


Are the blocks and heads going to be black as well?
:)

[BlueStreak]

Alright, so this day didn't turn out to be so bad, I guess.

Pictars
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6236/6261386593_9bbe70a25c_b.jpg

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6159/6261910870_691fb2c471_b.jpg

I'll be moving soon so the schedule is getting tight as I don't want to tow the car to the new house. Because the guides are on back order, I will have the bottom end assembled as soon as possible then will drop it in the car. When the head is ready, I will install it. Overall, it'll be more effort but it'll move things along quicker.

Dave

[CelestSpeed3]

Did you change the compression with the pistons or is it the stock size?

[BlueStreak]

Stock 9.5:1


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[CelestSpeed3]

What kind of ceramic coating did you get on the pistons?

Are you using the same coating for the valve faces as well?

Are you going with a single, 3 or 5 angle valve seats?

What would cause the guides to be worn out on the exhaust side? Is the valve getting too hot and expanding too much? If that's the case would it be worth an inconel valve replacement?

[BlueStreak]

What kind of ceramic coating did you get on the pistons?
You mean the brand? I don't know.


Are you using the same coating for the valve faces as well?
No coating on the valves.


What would cause the guides to be worn out on the exhaust side? Is the valve getting too hot and expanding too much? If that's the case would it be worth an inconel valve replacement?
Good question.

Its a possibility that heat is the cause. I'm suspecting that it is a platform issue since the same wear was exhibited on both motors.

[BlueStreak]

I did some mild port work on the turbo and shimmed the WGA so it isn't acting on the flapper at such a high angle.

I also did some prep work on the valvecovers. I call on the power of WalMart blue!
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6225/6262416999_35cbb7310c_b.jpg

[BlueStreak]

Are you going with a single, 3 or 5 angle valve seats?

Whoops, forgot to answer this. Its a multi-angle valve job. In other words, enough angles to get the valve to seat perfectly.

[Dan Da Man]

sweet.

[BlueStreak]

I've been studying the GT3071 compressor map over and over trying to figure out where I'll end up. This is what the numbers are telling me.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6043/6267640888_b83217580a_b.jpg

The plan is to hit:
- 20PSI by 3K RPMs (The best I've managed was 20PSI at 3.3K RPMs. May not be possible but its plotted).
- 23PSI by 3.5K RPMs (Should be possible. Don't know yet).
- 25PSI to redline (IWG and tiny hotside don't fail me, baby!)

I plan to rev the engine out to 7K RPMs by the time everything is said and done if there is still usable power to be made.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6168/6267115645_96e093c795_b.jpg
This airflow calculator (based off Garrett's info on their site) is what I used to make my estimates. According to the calculations, I should be at close to 500hp at the crank by 7K RPMs (assuming max power was linear which it isn't). I'll be happy with 430whp on VD(1.09 correction) or a Dynojet. Judging by plots that I've seen out there with other turbos, the GT3071 should get me there fairly easily. Maybe I can pull off 450whp with some wicked timing; that would be sweet. I should get torque in the 400s rather easily.

Some things that may cause me to miss these targets:
- BAT estimates are off. (higher BATs will reduce airflow)
- Volumetric efficiency estimate is off.
- I run out of WGDC to maintain 25PSI to redline.
- I run out of fuel.
- The airflow calculator assumes there is a linear correlation between airflow and horsepower (which there isn't).
- Much more.

Some things to note:
- The engine is forged (see thread title. haha)
- The head is fully ported and polished.
- The intake manifold is ported and polished.
- The CPe TMIC will be swapped out for a L2AIC. No reservoir this year tho.
- I'm running a ton of meth. (I'll start off with blue WWF then change to 70/30 mix if I'm KR/fuel limited). There's an E85 station about 100KM west of here. I wouldn't mind giving it a shot but they only sell to FlexFuel vehicles. Fail. I'll try begging and offering sexual services in exchange for corn if I can't get there with meth.

This max whp attempt will just be for "let's see what it can do". I'll back it off a tad once I can't get any more out of it.

For daily driving, I'll be running pretty much full power on a hybrid tune (target mild wheel spin in every gear until it hooks up). For time attack, I'll be turning it down substantially until I can upgrade the radiator and other items that require extensive cooling.

*fingers crossed*

[CelestSpeed3]

Wow, looks like you wont be selling the gt3071 then.


I had a few questions for you though, what was Vincents duty cycle at the last dyno? Was he near the edge of running out of fuel?

Also would you consider the ATP external wastegated housing if you do run out of duty cycle?

I was pondering the exhaust valve situation and I'm thinking this is why people had smoking turbos, any ideas on that?

While I do like the L2A setup have sourced a heat exchanger yet? Mostof the ones I've seen are too big for our hood clearance.

[CelestSpeed3]

Whoops, forgot to answer this. Its a multi-angle valve job. In other words, enough angles to get the valve to seat perfectly.

One angle is enough to seat it perfectly.

The idea of multiple angles is to allow the air to "curve" over the valve seat into the combustion chamber. But the more angles the less of a service life it will have since the seats get smaller and smaller. I think Doug would probably do a 3 angle to maintian a streetable service schedule of around +50,000km or so.

[Fobio]

At around 350 - 360 whp w/ ~22psi, I'm nowhere near close to the limit of stock fueling...basically, the simple line that distinguish tuning a built engine for high out-put vs. tuning a stock block for medium output. However, as Dave has pointed out, some relationships are not linear and when you get down to it, it's not just about more fuel with DI but also delivering it at high enough PSI to achieve air charge cooling. With Dave's plan to run lotsa meth, some of that cooling capacity can be addressed by the meth...remember that the water in the water/methanol we inject absorbs more heat than the actual meth.

Personally, I think there comes a decision point where you kinda have to decide whether to run meth as fuel to limit knock...or run meth (with water) to cool the charge. Basically, with Dave's port injected delivery, he can choose either...and in fact the only safe way to deliver meth as fuel, if one decides to do so. The way I run meth, strictly as a cooling agent for the air charge, as most ppl do, makes it problematic to run it as fuel, since it's impossible to ensure a even delivery of meth/fuel to all 4 cylinders.

Dave's throwing the book at this build...power will ultimately fall on turbo choice, in my opinion, since the block can take all the power we can throw at it. And identifying roadblocks beforehand when you can see all the bits ultimately makes tuning more efficient.

[CelestSpeed3]

So does one now need higher than high compression fuel pump? Or is the stock fuel manifold and injectors reaching there service limits?

Can you not also tap a set of port fuel injectors into the manifold as well as the meth and run both? Controlling the extra injectors might be a bit of an issue but nothing is out of reach.

Personally I think 400whp is more than a good spot to be with this car. After all a fully bolted on E90 M3 does just shy of 400whp.

[BlueStreak]

Paul, I'll answer your questions tomorrow.
------------------------------------------------------
Spent a few more hours working on the car. Got my meth switches and indicator light hooked up. I'll run it to the engine bay next time I'm in the garage.

Indicator light turns on when meth sprays. I goofed on the mock up and mounted it too low. Darn.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6106/6270591214_b2580b0113_z.jpg

Toggle switch for meth. The LED light will turn on when the meth system is activated (switch to ON position).
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6120/6270592404_4625d0ea74_z.jpg

I'll also be running one of these (http://www.aquastealth.com/pressureswitch.aspx) set to 2PSI to ensure the pump never sprays under vaccuum (idle and cruising) as I'm running meth off the MAF.
http://www.aquastealth.com/ProductImages/injection/switch3.jpg

[Fobio]

Shit dude. I have one of those pressure switch. Maybe you can test it for me.

Gonna do anything about evac pump?

[BlueStreak]

I still wasn't satisfied with the shimming work I did on the WGA so I decided to have at it once more.

This time, I enlarged the bolt holes in the WGA bracket giving me some room to better position the WGA. In this image, the right hole was kept unchanged to show the difference.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6099/6274646653_9413f74f35_b.jpg

I then reinstalled the WGA with shims on the left hand side only to tilt it. Before doing so, when attaching the WGA arm to the flapper, the arm would make contact with the mounting bracket and would still require more force to get it to seat onto the flapper. I suspect that the diaphragm would end up being at such a high angle that it could potentially leak boost and prevent me from reaching my targets efficiently (or not at all) OR force the EBC to run a higher WGDC to overcome the friction of the arm on the bracket.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6230/6275169088_cf2d2f103c_b.jpg

As you can see now, the WGA arm no longer makes contact with the mounting bracket. The nuts were threadlocked for good measure.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6239/6275170824_c73f1cfa48_b.jpg

I tightened the arm about 3-4 half turns when reattaching the WGA to the flapper to mitigate against exhaust pressure from blowing the WGA open when trying to command 25PSI to redline.

[BlueStreak]

Shit dude. I have one of those pressure switch. Maybe you can test it for me.

Gonna do anything about evac pump?

Sure, I'll test the switch. Bring it over whenever.

I'm still torn about that. I have a few other ideas that I'm mulling over as well. The evac pump just seems like one more mechanical thing to fail despite the fact that I like the idea of it.



So does one now need higher than high compression fuel pump? Or is the stock fuel manifold and injectors reaching there service limits?

Can you not also tap a set of port fuel injectors into the manifold as well as the meth and run both? Controlling the extra injectors might be a bit of an issue but nothing is out of reach.

Personally I think 400whp is more than a good spot to be with this car. After all a fully bolted on E90 M3 does just shy of 400whp.

Running out of fuel is highly dependent on fuel targets (how lean do you want to run) and fuel grade (how lean you can run). If I were to fill up 10L of E85 and the rest with Ultra 94 for instance, I would be able to lean out the mixture to 12.5-13.0 and still have fuel to make more power longer in the RPM band (assuming the turbo is up for the task).

Vince alluded to using meth as a fuel as well.

At the end of the day, it all depends. We'll see what I can pull off.

Secondary port injection has been done. The 500whp Speed on MSF is using 4x500cc injectors to make that much power. Its not my goal, though. The most I'll ever run is a maxed out GTX3071 setup. It's a perfect balance between fast spool and wicked top end.



Wow, looks like you wont be selling the gt3071 then.

Also would you consider the ATP external wastegated housing if you do run out of duty cycle?

I was pondering the exhaust valve situation and I'm thinking this is why people had smoking turbos, any ideas on that?

While I do like the L2A setup have sourced a heat exchanger yet? Mostof the ones I've seen are too big for our hood clearance.

I'll still sell the 3071 to somebody if they buy it within the next two days or so :) After that, I'm keeping it. I'll consider selling it at a later date if I still want more from my setup.

The ATP external wastegate housing doesn't appeal to me. If I were to swap hotsides, I'd go with a T3 .63 or .82 A/R.

The smoking turbo problem has to do with the banjo bolt opening; its too big and ends up flowing too much oil into the CHRA. Swapping the banjo bolt to a smaller one solves the problem at the root.

The heat exchanger is already mounted up front. I'm assuming you're talking about the intercooler? I ordered one, I just have to pick it up from across the border. I'm confident it'll fit.

[loki]

The heat exchanger is already mounted up front. I'm assuming you're talking about the intercooler? I ordered one, I just have to pick it up from across the border. I'm confident it'll fit.

Loki: what's this? *picks up aluminium piping*

Blue: that's for the intercooler, I'll show you where it goes.
*takes piping over to loki's engine bay and holds in place*

Loki: wow that's cool so the intercooler goes right there next to the intake? That's gonna be tight..

Blue: yeh the intake will be tucked back like this *tucks back loki's intake* and it'll go right here.

Loki: man, that is gonna be tight, you do a mock up?

Blue: that was the mock-up....

Loki: ........

:pop

[BlueStreak]

HAHAHAHAHA!

This is what it'll look like. Next year, I'm going to look into switching the mounting points of the intake and intercooler.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/attachments/f11/1309d1222016841-air-water-intercooler-installed-almost-100_0233_small.jpg

[SpelingChampian]

Your write ups are way more in depth than mine :P

I am jealous lol!

[BlueStreak]

You should be able to write a novel with your build :P

[BlueStreak]

*MINI UPDATE*
I had the blocks alignment honed in addition to all the work done thus far. Because I am using studs to hold the girdle to the block, the clamping force is so great (more than the OEM bolt style) that it actually twists the block by half a thou (.005"). What they do is mount the girdle with the main bearings (and possibly the crank) in place, tighten the whole thing down with the ARP studs then hone the block. This ensures that all bores will be perfectly straight when the engine is assembled.

The result of all this is that there won't be any side loading on the bearings.

On another note, the replacement OEM rod bearing clearances were 2.7 thou (.0027") where an acceptable value is around 1.5 thou (.0015"). Had the clearances not been checked, the engine would've hemorrhaged oil from the rod bearings and eventually would've suffered the Zoom Zoom Boom. We already have a plan of attack to fix this issue. Glad they checked it out. Phew!

I should have another update by the end of the week.

[Mr Wilson]

Are you finding many of these same issues on the second motor?

[loki]

Are you finding many of these same issues on the second motor?

I would assume they're identical. He also mentioned he had this work done to both blocks.

[BlueStreak]

I wouldn't say they're issues. Using studs on a block that came with bolts from the factory require alignment honing in order for things to be perfectly straight (irrelevant of the block choice - Mazda, Toyota, Honda, etc.) It's not something that is absolutely necessary but it is highly recommended. I just don't want to have a motor knowing that something is mildly crooked as it spins to 7K RPM. Nor would I feel comfortable selling the second motor knowing that as well.

The bearing clearances are a bit of an issue. Because aftermarket support sucks for the MZR DISI Turbo, we cannot order different sized bearings to fit the clearances. We have to buy OEM and work with them. At the end of the day, the resolution will have things running perfectly so I'm not worried.

[Mr Wilson]

Thanks for the info.

You're right issues was not the proper word. Just interested in the differences and similarities you are finding in terms of wear on the two engines + all the challenges faced with limited to no 'support' on some parts.

[BlueStreak]

No worries. :)

[Kiyomi]

u guys gonna bring ur beastly ms3s to the track next spring?

[SpelingChampian]

Need pics!

[BlueStreak]

u guys gonna bring ur beastly ms3s to the track next spring?

Hells yeah.


Need pics!
Soon ;)

[BlueStreak]

BAM!!!

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6232/6289885305_5ba64f67e0_b.jpg

More pr0n pictures to come by tomorrow at the earliest. I'm busy for the rest of the night and will be anti-social for the next few days getting things back online.

Hopefully, I'll get it fired up by next weekend.

WOOOOHOOOOO!

[loki]

@%&*ing right!!!

[rzapata]

Damn, all that good stuff in there.. :drool

Best of luck to you sir! :thumbsup

[BlueStreak]

Gents, this is where I left off. I have a bunch of high res photos on my camera but you'll have to live with my cell phone pics until I upload the good ones.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6099/6293931142_952cb79b98_b.jpg

I'll get back to it tomorrow morning.

[Kiyomi]

looks awesome

[BlueStreak]

*SUPERMEGAF**KINGUPDATE*

The last two days were wicked busy.

tl;dr - See pics below.

Work station prepped and ready.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6106/6298946280_550a67ac7f_b.jpg

Block with heat dissipating paint. 35-40% more effective at transferring heat than a non coated surface.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6112/6298416965_d9818cefa3_b.jpg

Parts.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6228/6298950524_15294a0fbc_b.jpg

Wiseco, meet Carrillo.
Thick conrod is thick. Makes the piston look tiny.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6227/6298952236_9de1fdb192_b.jpg

Crankshaft micropolished and balanced to within .1 gram.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6224/6298954268_2320928f46_b.jpg

Moar parts!
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6040/6298956224_e05189d401_b.jpg

The crank in its home.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6054/6298958034_a751591df6_b.jpg

Strapped down.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6220/6298959708_8d6870c9af_b.jpg

Anybody else want to bone that hone?
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6053/6298430481_16ee86a9a0_b.jpg

Pistons rods in their new home.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6105/6298432055_747751d07b_b.jpg

Cometic joins the party.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6035/6298434139_ef7953583f_b.jpg

More motor like.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6234/6298967946_334543b6be_b.jpg

Yo, DCR VVT. Jump on my lowrider and let's rotate these tires.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6236/6298438615_4518d992f3_b.jpg

Timing the motor.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6228/6298972374_1e05f86e91_b.jpg
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6228/6298974052_3ce60cedaf_b.jpg

Starting to look more nomz.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6054/6298444337_8cc0c98144_b.jpg

My gad!
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6108/6298445949_1618a16e11_b.jpg

Back shot.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6218/6298978834_5329851cbc_b.jpg

Stud/Nut combo on injectors.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6108/6298457117_f1cbd58cb1_b.jpg

Wiring it up.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6046/6298980720_e195d15e43_b.jpg

Moar!
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6223/6298450947_880a0e5e57_b.jpg

Turbo! I love this picture.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6213/6298452977_73c417f919_b.jpg

Tranny is on. Ready for transplant.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6096/6298455037_f475e6f55e_b.jpg

Engine is back where it belongs :dance:
Cell phone pic.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6227/6299001952_9b0cd815f5_b.jpg

Still tons to do. The hardest part was dropping the motor in with all the peripherals mounted. It was a bitch.

Cheers,
Dave

[loki]

wow....

where's the pic of the bucket with all the left-over parts that you ended up with....j/k

:)

[Mr Wilson]

Damn work for blocking whatever hosting site the photos are based on. Can't wait to see it all when i get home.

[caquricon]

Nice, very nice... That turbo is huge :huge smile

[Booostin]

Cant wait to see how much power this thing puts down

[rzapata]

Absolutely amazing!!! :huge smile Will you be taking people for a ride along? :chuckle

[BlueStreak]

wow....

where's the pic of the bucket with all the left-over parts that you ended up with....j/k

:)

The old parts are things of which we do not speak of. Kind've like saying Voldim...

Absolutely amazing!!! :huge smile Will you be taking people for a ride along? :chuckle

MMmmmmmaaaaybe ;-)

[horto]

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/images/smilies/bowdown.gif

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/images/smilies/banana2.gif

[-cj-]

Dude. You made the whole swap look easy... As I looked through your pictures I kept thinking to myself, "Damn, maybe I should do that!" and then I realized I have a fraction of your skill lol.

Can't wait until you fire her up... Best of luck man, you deserve it!

[loki]

Dude. You made the whole swap look easy... As I looked through your pictures I kept thinking to myself, "Damn, maybe I should do that!" and then I realized I have a fraction of your skill lol.

Can't wait until you fire her up... Best of luck man, you deserve it!

I don't need to remind you that there's two of them....(engines that is!)

and yeh Dave's skills are pretty impressive, that and his work ethic. Good role model for people interested in doing their own work.

[Booter22]

WOW, cant wait to see it if she goes to the track this year

[-cj-]

I don't need to remind you that there's two of them....(engines that is!)

and yeh Dave's skills are pretty impressive, that and his work ethic. Good role model for people interested in doing their own work.

Oh, I know! I have my eyes on the second engine...... and my wife has her eyes on me.... So I doubt that engine will end up in my ride, sadly. :)

[BlueStreak]

Sneak it in, Jerry! (the engine, not something else)

We can do the swap at another location. Done deal :P

[BlueStreak]

WOW, cant wait to see it if she goes to the track this year

If I head to the track, it'll be time attack or lapping. No 1/4 mile for me :)

[stevenma188]

Impressive work!

[Kiyomi]

If I head to the track, it'll be time attack or lapping. No 1/4 mile for me :)

+1

[bubba1983]

turbo is big, looks like the ones we run on the big trucks almost!

[cwp_sedan]

Oh man!!! Can't wait the see/hear this thing running. :thumbsup

[BlueStreak]

For those who like the nitty gritty stuff. Here are the bearing measurements.
They misspelled my last name...

Crankshaft and Mains
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6034/6302613026_41b7560537_b.jpg

Crankshaft and Rods
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6220/6302611202_a8207c24ee_b.jpg

[SpelingChampian]

Wait for me to fire her up ;D

[BlueStreak]

Friday is the planned D Day. We'll see what happens :-)

[horto]

:pop

[BlueStreak]

Listened to the Top Gear Vietnam Special about 5 times in a row tonight while working on the car. I swear, by the time this thing is back online, I would've spent around 100 hours working on it.

Anyways...

Prepped the intake manifold and threw on a brand spanking new gasket. The port job is seriously badass.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6220/6304581589_839656b6ea_b.jpg

Then I threw it on the car. I know, I know. I still have the VTCS garbage in there despite removing the flappers a long time ago. Don't judge me!
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6221/6304583799_03b8617d85_b.jpg

I also mocked up the intercooler setup.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6232/6305104068_a62a4158c1_b.jpg

I did a bunch of other stuff like fluids and wiring but its nothing worth noting.

[BlueStreak]

Alright, so I'm have this niggling feeling that I didn't tighten my flywheel down enough. For some reason, I think I put it at 50ft-lbs whereas 118ft-lbs is required.

I will be removing the tranny to double check. Better safe than sorry, I guess. Fack, its alot of work though...

[horto]

Alright, so I'm have this niggling feeling that I didn't tighten my flywheel down enough. For some reason, I think I put it at 50ft-lbs whereas 118ft-lbs is required.

I will be removing the tranny to double check. Better safe than sorry, I guess. Fack, its alot of work though...

create a checklist... and use it.... :)

[SpelingChampian]

Alright, so I'm have this niggling feeling that I didn't tighten my flywheel down enough. For some reason, I think I put it at 50ft-lbs whereas 118ft-lbs is required.

I will be removing the tranny to double check. Better safe than sorry, I guess. Fack, its alot of work though...

maybe just a litttttle bit more ;P

[loki]

Alright, so I'm have this niggling feeling that I didn't tighten my flywheel down enough. For some reason, I think I put it at 50ft-lbs whereas 118ft-lbs is required.

I will be removing the tranny to double check. Better safe than sorry, I guess. Fack, its alot of work though...

were I come from, we call that stalling!

just kidding. flywheel in the cockpit at 7000rpm is not my idea of a good time. better safe then SAWry

[BlueStreak]

Mmmaaannnn, if I created a checklist for the build it wouldve looked like Santa's wish list. :-p

I want to get this thing up and running quickly so I can start mobbing on people. You're first, Chris ;-)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BlueStreak]

I just remembered. I have something for you, Chris.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[loki]

I just remembered. I have something for you, Chris.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

will I like it?

[rzapata]

Saw this masterpiece in person today. :chuckle

[Kiyomi]

is it up and running?

[Thrizzl3]

Friday is the planned D Day. We'll see what happens :-)


Alright, so I'm have this niggling feeling that I didn't tighten my flywheel down enough. For some reason, I think I put it at 50ft-lbs whereas 118ft-lbs is required.

I will be removing the tranny to double check. Better safe than sorry, I guess. Fack, its alot of work though...


is it up and running?

read Justin read!!!!!!! lol

[Sonic31]

I like 500kms away and I will probably never see this car in action but holy fack dude I am still excited to hear how it goes when you start it up

good luck!

[turtle]

^1 you make it look/sound like it's no big deal. awesome work dude, it's gonna be killer!

[BlueStreak]

will I like it?
Ummm... You won't not like it ;)


is it up and running?
What phil said :P


I like 500kms away and I will probably never see this car in action but holy fack dude I am still excited to hear how it goes when you start it up

good luck!
Thanks!


^1 you make it look/sound like it's no big deal. awesome work dude, it's gonna be killer!
If only you saw me swearing at the car last night :P

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Spent last night pulling the transmission off to get at the flywheel. fast_dude (Derek), Fobio (Vince), MajesticBlueNTO (Neil) and -cj- (Jerry) all passed by and lent a hand through the struggle that is removing the transmission from the car. It effing sucks... big time.

Turns out the bolts were definitely not tight enough so it was good that we went back to double check. We stopped short of bolting the transmission back onto the engine so there's still quite a bit of work to be done.

At this point, I think it'll be a long shot to get the car started tonight. Saturday morning seems like the most viable date now.

At any rate, things are getting close!

[loki]

When is the next big get together, I'm coming by for sure.

Nothing like swearing at inanimate objects. Haha

If the guys are coming by tonight, lemme know and I'll come by straight fromt Stratford (stratford sucks huge amounts of balls by the way, and its full of high school skanks...)

But if the guys are coming by tomorrow then I'll go straight home.

Keep me posted.

[BlueStreak]

It's alive!

The car fired up on the 4th or 5th key turn, idled rough for a while then smoothed itself out. Stfts are at 25% so I was a liitttllleee off on my MAF scaling for the larger intake.

I still have to bleed the slave cylinder (which is proving to be a bitch), install the driver side front suspension and revert to my triple gauge setup.

The car should be road worthy by Monday. First stop on that day is to get my license plates renewed as they expired during the build.

I'll post pics tomorrow. I'll be busy for the rest of the day.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kiyomi]

awesome!!! vids are necessary!:pop

[Fobio]

I saw it start up. Not the first start. But it is a thing of beauty.

[loki]

this car will have so much powah my car will get more powah just by being parked next to it....

ok fine it won't.

This car will impregnate bitches just from driving by them. This car will make Yoda speak in coherent sentences. This car will make Fobio want to make his car faster.

[rzapata]

Nice nice!! Awesome stuff dave! :thumbsup I hope it all go well from now on, no more hiccups an whatnot. I wonder what this thing sounds like. :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kiyomi]

this car will have so much powah my car will get more powah just by being parked next to it....

ok fine it won't.

This car will impregnate bitches just from driving by them. This car will make Yoda speak in coherent sentences. This car will make Fobio want to make his car faster.

haha awesome.:bana2

[Thrizzl3]

This car will impregnate bitches just from driving by them. This car will make Yoda speak in coherent sentences. This car will make Fobio want to make his car faster.

HAHAHAHAHAH! QFT!

[BlueStreak]

Some more pr0n.

I had Competition Automotive drill and tap the oil filter housing for my pressure sending unit. I didn't care much for the spin on conversion mod which is why I went for this route.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6240/6318743169_a834058c5b_b.jpg

A pic of what I'm doing with my PCV setup. I bought an OBX racepipe and had a Vibrant cat welded on with the venturi pipe attached just after it. This setup should compliment my TXS downpipe beautifully.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6093/6318746037_97aa818917_b.jpg

Various engine bay shots.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6229/6318748361_8040a405e8_b.jpg
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6044/6319270410_9e0acceab9_b.jpg
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6110/6318753053_f594cf02c3_b.jpg

[breakfasteatre]

looks really neat n tidy! hope you can drop by this week when i do the dp even just to see the car :)

[BlueStreak]

Sure. Let me know when and where and I'll swing by (pending on other commitments for that day).
-------------------------------------------------------------

Start up vid.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nLV5njCZxLk

[Darkice]

ya really ! i cant wait to see this to


:pop

[BlueStreak]

Just finished the final round in the garage. The car is now road worthy :)

Tomorrow, it hits the streets.

[BlueStreak]

Alright, so this day started off with a mega fail. As I tried backing out of the garage this morning, the slave cylinder started leaking oil which meant I had no clutch. This was after replacing the slave cylinder with a brand new unit because the original decided to disintegrate when I removed it when pulling the engine. The leak this time is at the hydraulic line fitting; I ended up ordering a new one to get things back up to snuff.

Determined to get the car driving today, I ghetto rigged a system that would clamp down the fitting using a worm drive clamp and my left over crank pulley bolt. Worked like a charm! Haha.

Btw, I did this in my suit before leaving for work.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6109/6324500294_55d0350504_b.jpg

The part will be in on Wednesday so I'll fix it properly this weekend. Until then, my car will drive in true NATOR trim.

[breakfasteatre]

NATOR for the win. big ups brotherman

[stevenma188]

What is NATOR?

[loki]

What is NATOR?

No Action, (provides) Transportation Only...Really

[breakfasteatre]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v608/thugngr4real/NATORTOFORUM.jpg

[TheMAN]

is it me or you painted inside where the PCV valve and thermostat goes? if oil and coolant reacts with that paint and flakes off, I don't think the results will be pretty
also, painting right over where the oil filter housing goes wasn't a good idea either... there's a reason why it was machined smooth!

[BlueStreak]

Yeah, its painted in there. The paint won't react with the coolant/oil though.

I wasn't too pleased with them spraying over the machined surface for the oil filter, though. They promised it wouldn't leak and so far, my engine has managed to keep all of its oil. Woohoo!

[BlueStreak]

No Action, (provides) Transportation Only...Really

HAHAHAHAHAHA!

[TheMAN]

Yeah, its painted in there. The paint won't react with the coolant/oil though.

I wasn't too pleased with them spraying over the machined surface for the oil filter, though. They promised it wouldn't leak and so far, my engine has managed to keep all of its oil. Woohoo!

sounds like laziness on their part for not simply using some masking tape

[BlueStreak]

Plausible.


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[BlueStreak]

I learned an expensive lesson today.

I currently have a blow through setup with the MAF in front of the throttle body (due to piping constraints of the L2A). Part throttle driving is perfect with the HKS in VTA mode sounding quite nice.

I hit 15 PSI today on the highway and abruptly let off. Not a second after, the engine died and I coasted to a dignified failure at the entrance of an offramp. Trying to restart the car would result in it dying immediately after it fired. I suspected the MAF was toast.

After unplugging the MAF, the car started. I limped it over to my local Mazda dealer, bent over, took it in the butt, bought a new MAF and installed it onsite. The car ran as if nothing happened.

I'm guessing there was a very high pressure wave that bounced back -when letting off the throttle - that killed the MAF. I'm going to have to change things up before I start tuning for power.

Darn


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[loki]

oh man......

[Kiyomi]

I learned an expensive lesson today.

I currently have a blow through setup with the MAF in front of the throttle body (due to piping constraints of the L2A). Part throttle driving is perfect with the HKS in VTA mode sounding quite nice.

I hit 15 PSI today on the highway and abruptly let off. Not a second after, the engine died and I coasted to a dignified failure at the entrance of an offramp. Trying to restart the car would result in it dying immediately after it fired. I suspected the MAF was toast.

After unplugging the MAF, the car started. I limped it over to my local Mazda dealer, bent over, took it in the butt, bought a new MAF and installed it onsite. The car ran as if nothing happened.

I'm guessing there was a very high pressure wave that bounced back -when letting off the throttle - that killed the MAF. I'm going to have to change things up before I start tuning for power.

Darn


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that sounds awesome but bad... gl with finding a diff setup! cant wait to c this thing up and running properly on a track! :D

[rzapata]

Damn, I hope all goes well..

[Thrizzl3]

was it the wires or the sensor that was toast?

[BlueStreak]

was it the wires or the sensor that was toast?

It was the sensor that gave up the ghost.

[krimsalt]

please tell me this is attached to a 5, preferably 6, speed manual trans!

[Mr Wilson]

All Speeds are 6MT

[TheMAN]

I learned an expensive lesson today.

I currently have a blow through setup with the MAF in front of the throttle body (due to piping constraints of the L2A). Part throttle driving is perfect with the HKS in VTA mode sounding quite nice.

I hit 15 PSI today on the highway and abruptly let off. Not a second after, the engine died and I coasted to a dignified failure at the entrance of an offramp. Trying to restart the car would result in it dying immediately after it fired. I suspected the MAF was toast.

After unplugging the MAF, the car started. I limped it over to my local Mazda dealer, bent over, took it in the butt, bought a new MAF and installed it onsite. The car ran as if nothing happened.

I'm guessing there was a very high pressure wave that bounced back -when letting off the throttle - that killed the MAF. I'm going to have to change things up before I start tuning for power.

Darn


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I guess you found out the hard way why you shouldn't put the MAF so close to the throttle body ;)

[Fobio]

I guess you found out the hard way why you shouldn't put the MAF so close to the throttle body ;)

there's a cost to everything...

BlueStreak isn't the first to try it and make it work.

EDIT: But it's not like there's a manual or how to...in that light, I'd thank BlueStreak for his time and resources in doing something a lot of us wish could be done easily.

[BlueStreak]

It was experimental and I knew it going in.

I'm going to have a look at the old MAF and try some crude things to see if I can revive it. If I manage to do so, I'm going to give blow through one more shot.

[loki]

I'm going to give blow jobs one more shot.

fixed


ok in all seriousness, guys like you are keeping this forum interesting.

I have to scroll through 2 pages of posts about cats being good bodyguards and shit like that before I find something good.

keep up the good work!

[breakfasteatre]

mazdaspeedforums. informative posts + porn instead of led kits and stretched tires

[Mr Wilson]

mazdaspeedforums. informative posts + porn instead of led kits and stretched tires

THIS

[BlueStreak]

Haha. Chris, I've retired from giving blowies. You'll have to ask somebody else.

I may have some good news on the blow through setup. I'm running some more tests before officially saying yay/nay.


mazdaspeedforums. informative posts + porn instead of led kits and stretched tires
Or HID swaps in parking lots...

[bubba1983]

cleaned up as i see fit, i thoroughly enjoy this build thread especially b eing in the industry.. and have been following it all along..

[BlueStreak]

Thanks, bubba.
---------------------------------------------

I had a look at the old MAF last night and couldn't see why boost would kill it. There are no closed "air pockets" that an increase in pressure could cause damage. Feeling like I had nothing to lose, I sprayed the MAF with MAF cleaner and lightly pressed on the elements to see if they were broken; all was fine.

This morning, I popped the old MAF back into the car and turned the key. The engine fired and purred like a kitteh. (what the blip?) Anyways, I wasn't going to get all pissy (aside from the fact that it now seems like I have an extra MAF that I don't need...) and decided to give boost one more try on the highway.

Datalog (http://www.taketwocreations.com/downloads/datalog9.csv)

Boost hit a max of 16PSI (I tightened the WGA down quite a bit when I built the motor).

Other things to note:
- Boost readings off the AP coincides with what I'm seeing on the gauge. This means the new connector was wired properly and the scalars are spot on in ATR for the 3BAR sensor. Awesome.
- IATs are now my BATs. I have no IATs to measure since the MAF lies post turbo/intercooler. It was 6*C outside when I took this log.
- Stated BATs are higher than stated IATs which is odd since the appropriate sensors are a few inches from each other. I would chalk this discrepancy to improper scaling of the temp sensor on the MAP sensor. I have no means of correcting that and won't be logging the BAT PID for much longer.
- The MAF still isn't properly scaled in open loop. This is the second time I have hit open loop so it'll take a few revisions to get things right.
- MAF volts jump around a little. I have an airflow straightener prior to the MAF. It could be that it isn't functioning as intended or I have a boost leak just before/after the MAF (I have worm drive clamps in that area only since I ordered the wrong t-bolts; will fix that soon).
- g/s is in the 280 range (taken with a minor grain of salt) at 6K RPM at 15-16PSI. I'm winding out the motor to 7K and once I up the boost to 25-26PSI, things should get interesting.

Looks like we're back on track for blow through :-)

EDIT: The motor is at 420KMs since it first hit the road. I need to drive more...

[Mr Wilson]

I need to drive more...

If you need help with this, I am willing to skip out on the honeymoon.

[BlueStreak]

Always willing to lend a hand. You're too kind :P

[BlueStreak]

The second motor should be ready next week.

I'll have pics of something new tomorrow.

600kms down. I'm going to start adding some juice to the tune.

[bubba1983]

when do you figure first break in oil change will be at?

[loki]

The second motor should be ready next week.

I'll have pics of something new tomorrow.

600kms down. I'm going to start adding some juice to the tune.

man if you lent me the car in summer for a week could put 1500-2000km on it, to break her in.

yeh my wife and I drive my poor speed that much for work.....

[BlueStreak]

Would they be gentle miles? :P
--------------------------------------------------------
Last night was frustrating. I decided to start upping the boost (19.5PSI) and proceeded to blow off the intercooler couplers just before the MAF housing on 3 occasions. Those damn worm drive clamps can't hold for shit. I ended up having to drive home each time to fix it. By round 3, I threw in the towel and called it a night. The t-bolts should arrive on Monday.

On a side note, the blow through setup is great when popping couplers. The car is still perfectly driveable in vacuum.

One run, the car sucessfully managed to keep itself together with the engine flowing 335g/s in the mid 6K RPMs @19.5PSI. Before the build, the most I ever managed was 280g/s with this turbo; that's a ~20% increase in flow. I won't post the datalog since it still requires tons of work; fuel trimming here and there, better boost control, timing etc. but will start throwing them up as soon as things get stabilized.

Assuming I keep it to 1/2 throttle with the more aggressive map, the car is quite lively when compared to running spring pressure alone.

Ok, onto pics of the new stuff.

I bought a used 3" OBX race pipe and had a Vibrant cat and venturi system welded on. The piping from the PCV system was installed back when I dropped in the motor.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6059/6334394073_30661898d0_b.jpg
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6097/6335149136_f286abcf93_b.jpg
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6050/6335149900_ca2671027c_b.jpg

Other things on task involve swapping in a new hydraulic line for the slave cylinder and low pressure fuel line; both are currently NATORed. I am both proud and ashamed of the way they are currently running.

[BlueStreak]

when do you figure first break in oil change will be at?

At about 1K.

They mentioned to me that I can/should tune the motor with the break in oil as it offers superior protection than the post break in stuff. This way, if I goof on the tune (which I don't expect to), the motor stays protected w.r.t. lubrication.

[-cj-]

Good stuff Dave. I'm jealous. :chuckle

FYI, I popped off a coupler a while back and managed to limp home. Don't ask me how it worked! But it was the coupler just before the TB on the bottom of the car (CP-E FMIC). I had to really short shift the car and at one point I had to rapidly short shift to pick up some speed, so I could climb a small hill :chuckle Fun times!