My Logs

[Booostin]

What do you guys think? BTW car has a stock tune.

[loki]

you never put the accelerator right down to the floor.

to do a proper log you need to go WOT from about 2500 rpm.

i.e. Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) will read 99% and the Throttle Position (TP) will read around 75%

edit: you will also need to log the following parameters in addition: BAT, Calc. Load, LTFT (helps show the car is in open loop when it reads as 0.16).

and you can get rid of vehicle speed because that's not doing anything.

[Booostin]

Maybe I loaded the wrong log because I definitely floored it both gears. I will check into that tomorrow.

Thanks

[BlueStreak]

I should've read your post better before diving into the datalogs. I looked at it and thought WTF, this can't be more than the stock tune. And well, it is.

Looks fine for a stock tune. Now turn it up! I see tons of potential, here. :-)

[BlueStreak]

Oh and Chris, that is a WOT pull. The stock tune just doesn't open up the throttle all the way.

[loki]

Oh and Chris, that is a WOT pull. The stock tune just doesn't open up the throttle all the way.

Oh my bad. I learn something new everyday :)

[Booostin]

I should've read your post better before diving into the datalogs. I looked at it and thought WTF, this can't be more than the stock tune. And well, it is.

Looks fine for a stock tune. Now turn it up! I see tons of potential, here. :-)

Sweet. So that KR in the 4th gear log is nothing to worry about? I am still waiting for my downpipe before I start tuning.

[Booostin]

So what is a safe boost target for me? Only mods is a SRI for now but more stuff on the way. I want to squeeze as much as I can out of it for now lol. My boost target is 16psi right now holding steady but I was hoping to go for 17.5-18psi.

[loki]

So what is a safe boost target for me? Only mods is a SRI for now but more stuff on the way. I want to squeeze as much as I can out of it for now lol. My boost target is 16psi right now holding steady but I was hoping to go for 17.5-18psi.

it's winter time now though, so tuning is going to become difficult.

have you switched over to winter tires yet?

I'd say stick with the current tune for now, since you know it works, and then start tuning again in the spring.

that's just my opinion tho.

[Booostin]

it's winter time now though, so tuning is going to become difficult.

have you switched over to winter tires yet?

I'd say stick with the current tune for now, since you know it works, and then start tuning again in the spring.

that's just my opinion tho.

Yeah you are right... but its so exciting tuning on access tuner with this AP. When you and others said its the best bang for buck you werent kidding. And yeah... I am running winter tires now lol. Spinning like a mofo !

Also, noticed the boost levels are a bit more sporadic but I am assuming that has alot to do with it being winter and the air levels being more dense? I feel like the speeds optimal comfort zone is between 12-16degrees but I could be way off.

edit... I think I messed that up... less dense air (high altitude or hot air in 100 degree heat), and humid air (less air molecules due to added water) decrease our boost and engine performance. More dense air (sea or below sea level, cold air), and dry air (maximize air molecules) increase boost and engine performance. Do I have that right?

[loki]

Yeah you are right... but its so exciting tuning on access tuner with this AP. When you and others said its the best bang for buck you werent kidding. And yeah... I am running winter tires now lol. Spinning like a mofo !

Also, noticed the boost levels are a bit more sporadic but I am assuming that has alot to do with it being winter and the air levels being more dense? I feel like the speeds optimal comfort zone is between 12-16degrees but I could be way off.

edit... I think I messed that up... less dense air (high altitude or hot air in 100 degree heat), and humid air (less air molecules due to added water) decrease our boost and engine performance. More dense air (sea or below sea level, cold air), and dry air (maximize air molecules) increase boost and engine performance. Do I have that right?

yes.

plus your winter tires won't help with the logging in terms of accurate results, traction, anything.

as hard as it is, it has reached that time of the year where you just have to wait.

[rzapata]

So that's what the stock tune looks like... Boost really drops that much eh? I've never seen a stock tune log before. :)

I guess, with the AP you can let it hold a sustained boost of perhaps around 16psi till red line right?

And your analysis about cool air and hot air sounds about right. :thumbsup

[Booostin]

I guess, with the AP you can let it hold a sustained boost of perhaps around 16psi till red line right?



Right... give or take about 1-1.5 psi +/- as stated on the AP but I guess that is where the fine tuning comes into play. The biggest thing I noticed is boost not falling flat after 5000rpm and the boost hits harder at 3000rpm.

[BlueStreak]

Like Chris said, I'd stick with the "choon" you have right now.

I take it you still have the stock HPFP?

One thing to take into account (especially in the winter) is what loads you are hitting as opposed to boost. For the same amount of boost, you will hit higher loads (and make more power) in the winter. Airflows in the winter can increase by 20+g/s; if you have the stock HPFP, you may run into fuel pressure problems in the winter whereas you wouldn't in the summer (at 16PSI).

[Booostin]

6187

This is the latest log on my current tune. Is anything out of wack?

[loki]

6187

This is the latest log on my current tune. Is anything out of wack?

I've mentioned this to another member before as a suggestion, when saving and then posting your logs, it's a good habit to have the date, tune and fueling listed.

example: 11Dec08 - Stage 1 + SF 91 Oct - Log 1

it makes it very easy for anyone who looks at it to right away know what they're opening and what to look for.

couple things I noticed.

- your fuel pressure dips below 1600psi from 3400 - 4000rpm, as low as in the 1400 range, is that terrible? someone with more experience will have to comment, but from what I hear thats how it starts in terms of the fuel pump going. correct me if I'm wrong.

- your WGDC is maxed out from about 5200rpm and onward

- what AFR are you targetting? have you adjusted the tables or just using the stock values? It does lean out a bit in the middle there when compared to a V210 values

- slight knock as the turbo begins to spool, but my car does that too, and then some...

[Booostin]

I've mentioned this to another member before as a suggestion, when saving and then posting your logs, it's a good habit to have the date, tune and fueling listed.

example: 11Dec08 - Stage 1 + SF 91 Oct - Log 1

it makes it very easy for anyone who looks at it to right away know what they're opening and what to look for.


couple things I noticed.

- your fuel pressure dips below 1600psi from 3400 - 4000rpm, as low as in the 1400 range, is that terrible? someone with more experience will have to comment, but from what I hear thats how it starts in terms of the fuel pump going. correct me if I'm wrong.

- your WGDC is maxed out from about 5200rpm and onward

- what AFR are you targetting? have you adjusted the tables or just using the stock values? It does lean out a bit in the middle there when compared to a V210 values

- slight knock as the turbo begins to spool, but my car does that too, and then some...

I will definitely add that info next time. It is a stage1 + sure auros V2 sri 91 oct

I noticed the fuel pressure drop as well but I also dont know if thats terrible lol... definitely not good.

I havent adjusted the afr tables so they are stock for now.

I know that alot of people who post logs show some knock but its usually .35 -.7

I am going to start saving for a fuel pump lol

[BlueStreak]

Some people say a pressure drop to 1600psi is acceptable.

I say, any pressure drop is unacceptable. You're not always watching fuel pressure when going WOT so there's no guarantee things are always running like they should.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Booostin]

Here is my latest log

quite a bit of knock

[Fobio]

A partial throttle log (max 60% throttle) doesn't really help ppl see any problems if there are any...

Furthermore, can't tell if you're being sarcastic about knock...

However, if you had the throttle pegged to the floor in this log...

[Booostin]

I was in fourth gear and I punched it at around 2000RPM. I saw knock up to 2.45 around 5000RPM.

I was definitely WOT

[loki]

I asked this question already, and BlueStreak pointed out that the stock tune does not open the throttle fully

I don't see any knock in that log

[Booostin]

I asked this question already, and BlueStreak pointed out that the stock tune does not open the throttle fully

Its a stage 1 tune OTS

[Booostin]

Shit I put the wrong log on ... try this one fobio... sorry bout that

7196

[breakfasteatre]

that knock is something to worry about, do you consistently get it at that point every time?

as well, you want to log AFRs

[Booostin]

that knock is something to worry about, do you consistently get it at that point every time?

as well, you want to log AFRs

Yeah I do :(

Here are two other logs I did a few weeks ago... shows the same ****ing KR

[Thrizzl3]

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f9/kr-explained-102609/

[VertigoM]

Are you running 94 octane? If not then try it and see if it helps.

[Booostin]

Are you running 94 octane? If not then try it and see if it helps.

Running 91 now I will fill up with 94 today as I am almost empty.

[loki]

need to log AFR, throttle position, LTFT (shows your car transition to open loop), actual load, and boost air temp, to name a few


get rid of vehicle speed

[Booostin]

need to log AFR, throttle position, LTFT (shows your car transition to open loop), actual load, and boost air temp, to name a few


get rid of vehicle speed

I will get on that tonight and do a new log. Thanks

[Booostin]

Here are two new logs I did this morning. I put Ultra 94 in the car last night and it looks like it helped get rid of some of the knock.

[fywdyl]

Looks like it helped a lot with the knock.

Some advice: you should take out some of the variables that you don't need for tuning and that should give you better resolution.

[Booostin]

Yup other than that everything else looks ok

[VertigoM]

Definitely looks like the Ultra 94 helped.

Just curious, which map are you running? Stage0 stock or Stage1 stock?

I'm no expert but here are my observations:

1) In the datalog6.csv there was a slight boost spike to 17PSI after spool up, nothing major but you may want to reduce your WGDC values in the 2500rpm range.
2) It looks like your car isn't transitioning to Open Loop. The LTFT should go be going to "0" in OL.
3) Already mentioned but you need get a higher resolution log to really see what's going on.
4) Are you targetting 11.7 AFR?

[Booostin]

Definitely looks like the Ultra 94 helped.

Just curious, which map are you running? Stage0 stock or Stage1 stock?

I'm no expert but here are my observations:

1) In the datalog6.csv there was a slight boost spike to 17PSI after spool up, nothing major but you may want to reduce your WGDC values in the 2500rpm range.
2) It looks like your car isn't transitioning to Open Loop. The LTFT should go be going to "0" in OL.
3) Already mentioned but you need get a higher resolution log to really see what's going on.
4) Are you targetting 11.7 AFR?

I am running stage 1 tune with TIH/SRI 91oct

Should be getting downpipe next week

[VertigoM]

I am running stage 1 tune with TIH/SRI 91oct

Should be getting downpipe next week

Ok, guess you don't need help with the tune.

[loki]

you should not need 94 octane on a 91 octane map to solve your problems. You're only masking the problem.

You need to find out the root of the knock. i.e. is it true knock, or just some noise being picked up as knock. The fact that some of the knock went away with the 94 means that it is probably true knock.

installing the downpipe could compound the problem

[Booostin]

you should not need 94 octane on a 91 octane map to solve your problems. You're only masking the problem.

You need to find out the root of the knock. i.e. is it true knock, or just some noise being picked up as knock. The fact that some of the knock went away with the 94 means that it is probably true knock.

installing the downpipe could compound the problem

ic... pretty darn sure it is true knock... after all.. my engine will blow up soon right? :chuckle

[breakfasteatre]

is this vlads car?

[Thrizzl3]

yup

[Booostin]

So my engine blew... shit

[loki]

So my engine blew... shit

hope you're joking

[rzapata]

So my engine blew... shit

Premonition from few posts above.. It's hard to tell if people are trolling these days. Let's see what happened and how...

[Fobio]

Auto-ban if troll?

[Booostin]

Ended up having multiple misfire in engine which at first led me to believe I blew my shit. Changed spark plugs and cleaned throttle body seemed to do the trick. I was running in limp mode for a while so I had to floor the gas pedal to get anywhere.