Battery recommendation?

[soccerboy1491]

Hey everyone,
had my battery tested by Mr Lube and it failed pretty bad (tested at 550cca and results were 395cca) :P so I need a new one (works fine tho lol ) to help stuff I have installed are; HID headlights and fogs, interior led lighting, upgraded sound system (deck, all door speakers, 12" sub and amp)
Any help would be great thanks.

[Impressive]

Red or Yellow top batteries sold at one of our local sponsors should cover you and all your electrical necessities.

[Takumi616]

+1


Red or Yellow top batteries sold at one of our local sponsors should cover you and all your electrical necessities.

[Ogata]

What makes the Optima's more superior than say the OEM battery? I'm still confused...search is not my best friend today.

[DumpInfo]

:pop

[soccerboy1491]

Red or Yellow top batteries sold at one of our local sponsors should cover you and all your electrical necessities.

What sponsor?

[soccerboy1491]

What sponsor?

Nvm i found a great deal by garage 16 :)

[Kiyomi]

What makes the Optima's more superior than say the OEM battery? I'm still confused...search is not my best friend today.

dry cell

[Flagrum_3]

What makes the Optima's more superior than say the OEM battery? I'm still confused...search is not my best friend today.

First of all if anyone is pondering getting a Optima battery and have any extra electronics in their car, I would suggest going Yellow top.

Optima Batteries are superior because;

-They are dry cell, meaning no liquid.
-Will maintain charge in cold temps.
-Need no maintenance.
-Will retain charge under load superior to wet cell batteries.
-Drain slower.
-Cannot leak.
-They are bullet proof, literally :D

_3

[Cab0oze]

Whatever you do do NOT BUY A BATTERY AT CANADIAN TIRE NO MATTER HOW GOOD OF A DEAL IT IS.

>2 dead batteries that wouldn't charge, 1 severely leaking battery, many big messes and 3 returns later...<

[yearoftherat]

For those wondering yellow vs red:

RedTop: Use this for normal engine starting where an alternator immediately monitors the state of charge and provides energy to the battery whenever it is needed. This would describe most stock vehicles.


Automotive and RV under-hood starting
Heavy equipment where starting is the primary function
Diesel powered vehicles with no aftermarket electronics


YellowTop: Use this when electrical loads are higher than average, or when the discharge cycle is more than typical engine starting, such as vehicles without alternators. This also includes vehicles with significant electrical loads that may exceed the average alternator output (for example aftermarket audio system, GPS, chargers, winch, snowplow, inverters, drag cars). This can also include vehicles that have a lot of electronics from the factory, such as a minivan with power sliding doors and a DVD player, especially if the DVD player is used when the engine isn’t running.


Racing vehicles without a charging system (alternator or generator)
Dedicated drag racing vehicles
Diesel powered vehicles with aftermarket electronics
Car audio/video applications exceeding 250 watts over the OE system
Vehicles or heavy equipment with inverters, hydraulics, winches or other accessories
Electric vehicles



Red Optima specs:

part number: 35 (8020-164)
RedTop®; Battery; UNBOXED; Group 35; Cold Crank Amps 720; Crank Amps 910; Reserve Capacity 90; Ampere Hour 44; Top Terminal; L-9 5/16 in.; W-6 3/4 in.; H-7 5/8 in.;


Yellow Optima specs:

part number: D35 (8040-218)
YellowTop®; Deep Cycle Battery; UNBOXED; Grp. D35; Cold Crank Amps 620; Crank Amps 770; Reserve Capacity 100; Amp Hour 48; Top Terminal; L-9 5/16 in.; W-6 3/4 in.; H-7 5/8 in.;
corner

[Impressive]

YOTR just killed it for anyone trying to decide on which battery best suits their needs.

Might as well sticky+lock after that comment :chuckle

[Cab0oze]

Kinda looks like a copy/paste from their website or something lol...

[Nova 3 GT]

Does converting ALL of your headlight to HIDs (two 55W kit and one 35W kit) require the use of the Yellow-top or it just a little overkill?

[Impressive]

Does converting ALL of your headlight to HIDs (two 55W kit and one 35W kit) require the use of the Yellow-top or it just a little overkill?

Overkill, but not necessarily a bad idea if you plan on increasing the electrical load on your car in the future.

[Takumi616]

LMAO!


Kinda looks like a copy/paste from their website or something lol...

[yearoftherat]

Kinda looks like a copy/paste from their website or something lol...

LOL...cut and paste is your friend.:)

[p-o-g-i]

For those wondering yellow vs red:

RedTop: Use this for normal engine starting where an alternator immediately monitors the state of charge and provides energy to the battery whenever it is needed. This would describe most stock vehicles.


Automotive and RV under-hood starting
Heavy equipment where starting is the primary function
Diesel powered vehicles with no aftermarket electronics


YellowTop: Use this when electrical loads are higher than average, or when the discharge cycle is more than typical engine starting, such as vehicles without alternators. This also includes vehicles with significant electrical loads that may exceed the average alternator output (for example aftermarket audio system, GPS, chargers, winch, snowplow, inverters, drag cars). This can also include vehicles that have a lot of electronics from the factory, such as a minivan with power sliding doors and a DVD player, especially if the DVD player is used when the engine isn’t running.


Racing vehicles without a charging system (alternator or generator)
Dedicated drag racing vehicles
Diesel powered vehicles with aftermarket electronics
Car audio/video applications exceeding 250 watts over the OE system
Vehicles or heavy equipment with inverters, hydraulics, winches or other accessories
Electric vehicles



Red Optima specs:

part number: 35 (8020-164)
RedTop®; Battery; UNBOXED; Group 35; Cold Crank Amps 720; Crank Amps 910; Reserve Capacity 90; Ampere Hour 44; Top Terminal; L-9 5/16 in.; W-6 3/4 in.; H-7 5/8 in.;


Yellow Optima specs:

part number: D35 (8040-218)
YellowTop®; Deep Cycle Battery; UNBOXED; Grp. D35; Cold Crank Amps 620; Crank Amps 770; Reserve Capacity 100; Amp Hour 48; Top Terminal; L-9 5/16 in.; W-6 3/4 in.; H-7 5/8 in.;
corner

I thought this would be pretty clear cut, but isn't the yellow top suppose to cost more than the red top?!?!?!

Again, I thought this would be pretty clear cut, but I've been checking in with various sponsors and other places who sell these batteries...... and some indicate that yellow top is more expensive, while others indicate red top being more expensive.

To make it even more confusing, comparing prices between various shops is a margin of about $60.... ?!?!?!

[TheMAN]

it sometimes is cheaper to order optima (or other AGM) batteries online... since they are sealed and don't have fluidic acid, they don't leak and isn't a shipping hazard

[zoomahh]

For those wondering yellow vs red:

RedTop: Use this for normal engine starting where an alternator immediately monitors the state of charge and provides energy to the battery whenever it is needed. This would describe most stock vehicles.


Automotive and RV under-hood starting
Heavy equipment where starting is the primary function
Diesel powered vehicles with no aftermarket electronics


YellowTop: Use this when electrical loads are higher than average, or when the discharge cycle is more than typical engine starting, such as vehicles without alternators. This also includes vehicles with significant electrical loads that may exceed the average alternator output (for example aftermarket audio system, GPS, chargers, winch, snowplow, inverters, drag cars). This can also include vehicles that have a lot of electronics from the factory, such as a minivan with power sliding doors and a DVD player, especially if the DVD player is used when the engine isn’t running.


Racing vehicles without a charging system (alternator or generator)
Dedicated drag racing vehicles
Diesel powered vehicles with aftermarket electronics
Car audio/video applications exceeding 250 watts over the OE system
Vehicles or heavy equipment with inverters, hydraulics, winches or other accessories
Electric vehicles



Red Optima specs:

part number: 35 (8020-164)
RedTop®; Battery; UNBOXED; Group 35; Cold Crank Amps 720; Crank Amps 910; Reserve Capacity 90; Ampere Hour 44; Top Terminal; L-9 5/16 in.; W-6 3/4 in.; H-7 5/8 in.;


Yellow Optima specs:

part number: D35 (8040-218)
YellowTop®; Deep Cycle Battery; UNBOXED; Grp. D35; Cold Crank Amps 620; Crank Amps 770; Reserve Capacity 100; Amp Hour 48; Top Terminal; L-9 5/16 in.; W-6 3/4 in.; H-7 5/8 in.;
corner

Hey yotr, thanks for the info on the battery thing, my rides going on 4 1/2 years on the same battery and I got my annual checkup at the "stealer" errrr I mean DEALER, so maybe I'll have em test it while I'm there.

[zoomahh]

CRAP!!!! after reviewing my post, I realized this SHOULD be in the modding section under interior lights....sorry guys :blush feel free to move this post n hit me with the proverbial newspaper.... :rolleyes

[Dave_The_BMXER]

My yellow top has never let me down.

Prior to that I always ran CT batteries that would pop after a couple years and I would warranty after a varying amount of a hassle.