2010 MS3 first mods

[VertigoM]

So after a year of procrastinating I've finally decided to start modding my car.

I have an Accessport and Corksport SRI on the way. Based on the research I've done thus far, I plan on starting with the OTS Stage 1 map and then doing a MAF calibration followed by tweaking the AFR and boost targets (basically following Alibor's noob tuning guide on Mazdaspeed.org).

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that my stock fuel pump will hold up but if not then I guess I'll have to get internals next.

Anyway, other than fuel pressures dropping below 1600 is there anything else that I should be aware of or on the look out for? The last thing I want is zoom zoom boom!

My goal is not to get the max power out of my car but to improve performance while keeping everything relatively safe.

[Elusivellama]

So after a year of procrastinating I've finally decided to start modding my car.

I have an Accessport and Corksport SRI on the way. Based on the research I've done thus far, I plan on starting with the OTS Stage 1 map and then doing a MAF calibration followed by tweaking the AFR and boost targets (basically following Alibor's noob tuning guide on Mazdaspeed.org).

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that my stock fuel pump will hold up but if not then I guess I'll have to get internals next.

Anyway, other than fuel pressures dropping below 1600 is there anything else that I should be aware of or on the look out for? The last thing I want is zoom zoom boom!

My goal is not to get the max power out of my car but to improve performance while keeping everything relatively safe.

Sounds exactly like my goal, it's my DD and I can't afford to have it blow up on me. The big thing was the fuel pressure, and I have upgraded internals even though I may not even need them at this point (stage 1, same intake/TIH as you). Someone on msf (fortressofcomfort) reported fp in the range of 750 - 800 with just stage 1 mods, so it's definitely worth getting the hpfp upgrade out of the way early. The CPE pump is recommended around here for the lifetime warranty... I went with the Autotech internals personally, but CPE would be a better choice.

Also... oil catch can seems to be a necessary mod, talk to Fobio about getting one (on the sponsors > MSpeed forum). Catches the crap that shoots out the PCV valve back into our intakes.

[VertigoM]

Sounds exactly like my goal, it's my DD and I can't afford to have it blow up on me. The big thing was the fuel pressure, and I have upgraded internals even though I may not even need them at this point (stage 1, same intake/TIH as you). Someone on msf (fortressofcomfort) reported fp in the range of 750 - 800 with just stage 1 mods, so it's definitely worth getting the hpfp upgrade out of the way early. The CPE pump is recommended around here for the lifetime warranty... I went with the Autotech internals personally, but CPE would be a better choice.

Also... oil catch can seems to be a necessary mod, talk to Fobio about getting one (on the sponsors > MSpeed forum). Catches the crap that shoots out the PCV valve back into our intakes.

How does the car drive with the SRI and Stage 1 map? Did you notice a noticeable increase in power?

Thanks for the heads up on the oil catch can. I'll definitely look into that.

[Fack_Dude]

How does the car drive with the SRI and Stage 1 map? Did you notice a noticeable increase in power?

Thanks for the heads up on the oil catch can. I'll definitely look into that.

Don't look into it. Just buy it.

[Elusivellama]

There is a noticeable increase in power, but I would not say it is 'huge'. It could be that I'm already getting used to the additional power, so take what I say with that in mind. The really noticeable gains should come from stage 2, upgraded intercooler and a pro-tune.

As for the oil catch can, like fast_dud says, don't even look into it, or consider it, or whatever - just buy the Saikou-Michi kit from Fobio and get it installed. This is not an optional mod, it's mandatory because of the way direct-injection engines work.

Long story short, the crap which gets shot through the PCV hose goes right back into your intake manifold, this is by design because Mazda figures most owners wouldn't even notice or care. This will lead to increased crap built up on your cylinder heads and valves. The OCC catches most of this shit before it gets back into the intake manifold - it's a bandaid solution to a problem, but a very effective one if you've ever seen the shit that it catches (which I've seen first-hand from Phil's car).

[VertigoM]

Looks like I just missed an OCC group buy... Damn.

Any issues with OCC freezing in the winter? How often does it need to be emptied?

[breakfasteatre]

oily sludge. i would say it would have to be pretty damn cold for it to freeze, and it would only be a problem if your cc is full

[MarineMazda]

oily sludge. i would say it would have to be pretty damn cold for it to freeze, and it would only be a problem if your cc is full

It only drains as slow as molasses in the winter hahahaha Mind you I have heard of peoples freezing

[Elusivellama]

Paul (CelestSpeed3) said that the OCCs are designed to sit against a radiator hose which runs by where you'll be mounting it. This radiator hose should provide enough heat in the winter to help keep the stuff in the can fluid.