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Mr Wilson
04-30-2012, 01:58 PM
This thread was created to provide basic and how to information on OCC as well as discussion or issues that may arise. Keeping all OCC discussion in one place benefits us all!

What is an Oil Catch Can?

An oil catch can is used in turbo applications, or high-performance race applications where excessive blow-by (leakage past the piston rings) of air and fuel vapor occurs. This creates a positive pressure in the crankcase. Engine manufactures have placed a valve on the engine block which releases this pressure. This valve is known as a PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve.

During engine operation, blow-by gases, as well as oil mist from the rotating components of the engine, pass through the PCV valve and are routed back into the intake for the engine to burn off. However, some of the oil mist and other products settle along the engine intake and over time form a "gunk." The oil catch can collects the oil mist and condenses the fuel vapors while allowing "cleaner" gases to be passed back into the intake.

Typically the blow-by gasses are passed through a wire mesh, which give the vapor droplets something to adhere to. Since the oil catch cans condense the vapor portion of the gasses, they will need to be drained periodically of all the oil, fuel and other contaminants.

*PICTURE IS FOR REFERENCE ONLY.*
http://www.saikoumichi.com/PhotoBorderTemplateStage2.png

Here's a pic of wha the OCC looks like on the inside to make it effective:

http://www.saikoumichi.com/REV_C_SECTION_publish.jpg

Install Links

http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=131262.0

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123711318-How-to-MS3-Catch-Can-Install-with-tons-of-pics.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f33/how-mazdaspeed-3-catch-can-install-tons-pics-7216/

http://www.jamesbaroneracing.com/support/JBR_MAZDASPEED_3_Oil_Catch_Can_Installation_Instru ctions.pdf

Things to Note


Guys, a few things.

- I wouldn't recommend making your own catch can unless you use proper materials. Making one out of beer cans creates the likelihood that it'll collapse when cruising in vacuum.
Plastic is also out of the question because the oil/fuel mix will eat thru the plastic. Next thing you know, you're stuck on the side of the road with a massive air leak and have to take it out in order to get home. A few weeks ago, I emptied my catch can into a plastic cup and let it separate on a bench. An hour later, the contents of the cup were all over the floor with the bottom of the cup fused to the bench. If you use other plastics, it'll just delay the rate of decay of your setup. The end result is the same; massive air leak and a car that will run like crap or leave you stranded.

- This is for a MZ3, correct? I would say a check valve is not necessary. Your intakes do not see positive manifold pressure so it isn't needed. Chances are your crankcase already has a pcv valve. That will suffice.

- Get a catch can that is baffled. Cans with a simple in/out setup and no baffling internals are junk. Your intake manifold will still get coated in crap. I ran one temporarily before I got my Saikou Michi and my manifold looked like hell. All the work to clean my valves was lost in 6K KMs of driving. It happened that quick...


It was brought to my attention that when you install the outlet hose that dips below the actual outlet, it creates a spot where fluids may collect after the car cools and moisture/oil condensate.
to prevent this, you must angle the outlet hosing slightly going higher than the outlet that it's leaving from. this way, when moisture in the system collects, it'll drain back into the catch can to be collected.


Misc installation tips:

- Remove the dip stick. It'll give you way more room to work with.
- (For gen2) When mounting the bracket to the car, use an open-ended 10mm wrench with some tape stuck to it to hold the nut in place, and then you can slip the wrench behind the mounting point


a primary catch can is needed to catch blow-by going into the intake manifold and gunking up the intake valves.

a secondary catch can will help catch oil venting out of the valve cover which gets sent back thru the TIP/TIH.

most just run the primary catch can. but as you can see, there are benefits to running the second one as well.

Install Review


After reading up on how the Mazdaspeed 3 operates I realized that it would be a smart idea to install the Mspeed OCC kit. I did this to help protect my motor from harmful blow-by that can cause internal damage over time.

Seeing the steps to install this kit kind of made me think it's going to be a piece of cake..but some parts weren't..especially when it came to taking the clamps off. If you have skinny hands the install should take no longer than 1.5-2 hrs. My install took 2.5 hrs because i had a stubborn hose to remove but in the end i got it out.
The provided hoses perfectly suit the application as well as the check valve which was updated with the elbow fitting on the end which proved to make the install 10x easier. Overall the install is pretty straight forward I'm sure the NATOR people can lend a hand if you are in need of assistance.

Pics of the installed product.

http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/qq273/guranteed_justice/IMG_0428.jpg

http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/qq273/guranteed_justice/IMG_0431.jpg

For those who are interested in buying a kit i highly recommend it as i've seen what is blown back into the intake tract.

- Phil

Update


So it has been 3 weeks or so since i have installed my catch can and i noticed that my lines started to show signs of oil flowing through them. I gave it some time before i chose to empty the catch can and here is what i seen...

http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/qq273/guranteed_justice/IMG_0513.jpg

all that crap was being blown into my intake system WTF!!!!!!! after 3 weeks??? so happy i got this catch can.

http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/qq273/guranteed_justice/IMG_0514.jpg

Thank you Mspeed!

Btw..i installed the catch can a few days after i got the oil changed. You won't notice any fluid flowing through until the oil has sheared down enough to come into the valve train.

gar_lei
04-30-2012, 02:08 PM
Thanks for great info

fywdyl
04-30-2012, 02:08 PM
Sweet deal! Good job Mr. Wilson!

Misc installation tips:

- Remove the dip stick. It'll give you way more room to work with.
- (For gen2) When mounting the bracket to the car, use an open-ended 10mm wrench with some tape stuck to it to hold the nut in place, and then you can slip the wrench behind the mounting point

p.s. Vote for sticky!

loki
04-30-2012, 02:09 PM
PM already sent. Sticky in the works.


good work, Paul.

Mr Wilson
04-30-2012, 02:12 PM
FYWDYL thanks for the info!

Is there anything else that is missing?

Thrizzl3
04-30-2012, 02:19 PM
Sweet Paul! nice job!

Turok
04-30-2012, 02:19 PM
Nice job Mr Wilson!

+1 For Sticky

2zoom
04-30-2012, 02:23 PM
Thanks Paul, nice write up

boyracer
04-30-2012, 02:46 PM
Awesome work Paul

sammifan
04-30-2012, 02:52 PM
Good stuff, gotta get this done with MSpeed next time I'm in T.O.

Booostin
04-30-2012, 03:12 PM
source : http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_an_oil_catch_can

lol

good job :)

Mr Wilson
04-30-2012, 03:22 PM
;)

VertigoM
04-30-2012, 03:30 PM
Great summary. Very helpful.

I still haven't gotten around to getting an OCC for my car. My main concern is still with it freezing in the winter if I park my car outside for extended periods.

In the event that it does freeze: How will I know if it's frozen? What is the impact? How can it be thawed out?

loki
04-30-2012, 03:32 PM
Great summary. Very helpful.

I still haven't gotten around to getting an OCC for my car. My main concern is still with it freezing in the winter if I park my car outside for extended periods.

In the event that it does freeze: How will I know if it's frozen? What is the impact? How can it be thawed out?

as mentioned before, the OCC is located in your engine bay, and as the car heats up it should thaw out if for whatever reason it does freeze.

this is canada. adapt. :)

Fobio
04-30-2012, 03:37 PM
Wilson, please feel free to cut and pasta the 2 diagrams from the Saikou-Michi GB. The 2 pics should illustrate to those that never attended the Ownership & Maintenance Seminar the beenfits of a properly designed catch can and how it'll address PERCEIVED issues such as "freezing".

Just curious...has anyone actually seen frozen oil? Frozen gasoline?

hmm.....

SomeGuy
04-30-2012, 03:41 PM
Wilson, please feel free to cut and pasta the 2 diagrams from the Saikou-Michi GB. The 2 pics should illustrate to those that never attended the Ownership & Maintenance Seminar the beenfits of a properly designed catch can and how it'll address PERCEIVED issues such as "freezing".

Just curious...has anyone actually seen frozen oil? Frozen gasoline?

hmm.....

That's what I don't get...why would people think that liquids used in their engine in the dead of winter would magically freeze outside of the engine? The only tricky part would be draining the catch can if the oil was feeling thick, but then you can always just do it after the car has been running for a while or take a heat gun/hair drier and gently warm it up.

breakfasteatre
04-30-2012, 03:45 PM
http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/qq273/guranteed_justice/IMG_0513.jpg

Duck my.baby looked good

Mr Wilson
04-30-2012, 03:53 PM
Wilson, please feel free to cut and pasta the 2 diagrams from the Saikou-Michi GB.

Done.

Alex, RIP Gen 1 Unicorn

VertigoM
04-30-2012, 04:08 PM
as mentioned before, the OCC is located in your engine bay, and as the car heats up it should thaw out if for whatever reason it does freeze.

this is canada. adapt. :)

So to answer my questions:

How will I know it's frozen?
--> I wont

What is the impact?
--> None (?) Does it cause a blockage of some sort? Sorry for my lack of knowledge but will a frozen OCC cause a car to not be able to start?

How can it be thawed out?
--> Engine bay will warm up and thaw it out

rzapata
04-30-2012, 04:18 PM
Cool stuff Paul (Mr. Wilson)! Thanks for the write up and to all the contributors (Fobio, BlueStreak, Thrizzle3, fywdyl) and to MSpeed for organizing! :thumbsup

Fobio
04-30-2012, 04:21 PM
So to answer my questions:

How will I know it's frozen?
--> I wont

What is the impact?
--> None (?) Does it cause a blockage of some sort? Sorry for my lack of knowledge but will a frozen OCC cause a car to not be able to start?

How can it be thawed out?
--> Engine bay will warm up and thaw it out

None of your questions nor answers are truly valid, when it comes to a superior designed OCC like the Saikou-Michi can...

Take in those glorious relief holes...they address 90% of your concerns.

If you don't drain your catch can, and let it fill past the outlet hose, then you'd deserve to deal with the consequences due to lack of care and owner negligence.

CelestSpeed3
04-30-2012, 06:28 PM
So to answer my questions:

How will I know it's frozen?
--> I wont

What is the impact?
--> None (?) Does it cause a blockage of some sort? Sorry for my lack of knowledge but will a frozen OCC cause a car to not be able to start?

How can it be thawed out?
--> Engine bay will warm up and thaw it out

1. The water vapor may freeze, however the water is suspended in oil, so i doubt it will even freeze.

2. A full catch can will operate as if you had no catch can at all. Nothing bad will happen to your motor. Yes it will be able to start no problem.

3. Yes you can thaw it out which is why the can is placed up against the rad hose as close as I could fit it with what the brackets and cans allow. Either way you should be changing your oil when warm as well as draining the can so don't worry about it.

mazdaspeedemon3
04-30-2012, 07:24 PM
Kudos Wilson! kind of a noob question but is it required to have either a SRI or CAI to run a OCC?

Mr Wilson
04-30-2012, 07:30 PM
No, just dependant on the location of the tubing for the CAI, the support for the can itself may have to be modified (not a big deal anyways).

Elusivellama
05-01-2012, 11:59 AM
Should pour that stuff from the OCC into a used tin can, stick it in the freezer overnight and see if it solidifies. I doubt a mixture of oil and fuel will turn into a solid at our winter temperatures.... I can see it happening in Siberia or some super cold ass place, but not here in the GTA.

Mr Wilson
05-16-2012, 10:10 PM
After about 400km I decided to see what the can had, as well as trying to see if I could re-route some of the lines. Had about half the liquid that phil had in the above photo. Due to the FMIC piping the lines have quite a 'U" shape to them. The inlet line to the OCC had quite a bit of liquid in it, but so did the outlet line (clear liquid). Not really sure what could be in the outlet line? gas vapour that had condensed?

Ended up getting sidetracked and didn't change the lines + wanted to know if I was catching more 'stuff'.

Overall super happy with the can (cheers MSpeed). Seeing the crap that goes through the system and gets caked on the valves is quite the sight, nice to know I can catch most everything now.

pwdunmore
08-01-2012, 01:32 PM
So I am trying to decide on a OCC... JBR, CorkSport or Saikou? Any quality issues with any of them? I wanted to install a SRI(prolly JBR since its a turbo inlet also but it won't be till next summer) I know the OCC location can have a influence on the SRI.

Corksport = Least $
JBR = Middle $
Saikou = Most $

rzapata
08-01-2012, 01:46 PM
Actually, if you factor in shipping, the JBR kit will most likely be more than the Saikou Michi kit (provided you get the Saikou Michi kit off MSpeed). I'm not sure how the JBR and Corksport cans look like on the inside so who knows which one is actually better.

pwdunmore
08-01-2012, 01:57 PM
Actually, if you factor in shipping, the JBR kit will most likely be more than the Saikou Michi kit (provided you get the Saikou Michi kit off MSpeed). I'm not sure how the JBR and Corksport cans look like on the inside so who knows which one is actually better.

Thanks Rzapata :)... Shipping + Brokerage is a biatch!
I saw a group buy on the OCC for Saikou but I'm not sure if the order went in or not. I will talk to Vince once I meet up with him to get my group buy stuff from JBR.

Fobio
08-02-2012, 02:19 AM
After about 400km I decided to see what the can had, as well as trying to see if I could re-route some of the lines. Had about half the liquid that phil had in the above photo. Due to the FMIC piping the lines have quite a 'U" shape to them. The inlet line to the OCC had quite a bit of liquid in it, but so did the outlet line (clear liquid). Not really sure what could be in the outlet line? gas vapour that had condensed?

Ended up getting sidetracked and didn't change the lines + wanted to know if I was catching more 'stuff'.

Overall super happy with the can (cheers MSpeed). Seeing the crap that goes through the system and gets caked on the valves is quite the sight, nice to know I can catch most everything now.

Thanks Paul. I didn't even see the glowing review until now. At the end of the day, I'm more happy that your car is happy. =) Any problems with the lines you're using?


Thanks Rzapata :)... Shipping + Brokerage is a biatch!
I saw a group buy on the OCC for Saikou but I'm not sure if the order went in or not. I will talk to Vince once I meet up with him to get my group buy stuff from JBR.

Our kits were arrived at with the best possible parts that any typical owner would get for their car to perform on street and track. Of course, in an ideal world, my dealership-sponsor would run braided stainless steel lines w/ AN-fittings through-out and carbon fibre catch can lined with super light unobtainium and $130/per laboratory grade check valve. [There are $130 USD check valves...I know.] After that, we priced our kit at a point that remains competitive regardless of USD exchange rates. Think of it more as a hook-up than just another option.

Mr Wilson
08-02-2012, 08:25 PM
Thanks Paul. I didn't even see the glowing review until now. At the end of the day, I'm more happy that your car is happy. =) Any problems with the lines you're using?

NP! No issues with the lines and actually like that they are ribbed (for her pleasure), I'm sure that helps with the overall performance of the system. Due to check and see what's in there. Been a while since the last empty.

pwdunmore
08-03-2012, 11:40 AM
Our kits were arrived at with the best possible parts that any typical owner would get for their car to perform on street and track. Of course, in an ideal world, my dealership-sponsor would run braided stainless steel lines w/ AN-fittings through-out and carbon fibre catch can lined with super light unobtainium and $130/per laboratory grade check valve. [There are $130 USD check valves...I know.] After that, we priced our kit at a point that remains competitive regardless of USD exchange rates. Think of it more as a hook-up than just another option.

Unobtanium eh?!?!? I was hoping for Adamantium, Wolverine would have been proud lol. Jokes aside, sounds like an awesome set up Vince, can't wait to get the order in so I can have a nice clean intake for a while.

fywdyl
08-18-2012, 05:34 PM
I decided to try emptying my catch can after seeing what came out of Phil's today. Drove about 5,000-5,500 KM since last oil change and here are the results:

http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad78/fywdyl/MS3/th_DSC_0037.jpg (http://s923.photobucket.com/albums/ad78/fywdyl/MS3/?action=view&current=DSC_0037.jpg)

http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad78/fywdyl/MS3/th_DSC_0038.jpg (http://s923.photobucket.com/albums/ad78/fywdyl/MS3/?action=view&current=DSC_0038.jpg)

http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad78/fywdyl/MS3/th_DSC_0039.jpg (http://s923.photobucket.com/albums/ad78/fywdyl/MS3/?action=view&current=DSC_0039.jpg)

Will check back in a few days to see it separate. Look at that nasty stuff that's going into your engine. Thanks MSpeed for putting together this awesome kit.

Here's Phil hard at work "milking" his catch can.

http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad78/fywdyl/MS3/th_DSC_0036.jpg (http://s923.photobucket.com/albums/ad78/fywdyl/MS3/?action=view&current=DSC_0036.jpg)

P.S. - if nothing comes out, give it a nice shake and it'll come flowing out.

Thrizzl3
08-18-2012, 05:43 PM
should have taken a pic of mine..damn that was alot

Turok
08-18-2012, 06:51 PM
should have taken a pic of mine..damn that was alot

I still have the coffee cup ill take a pic and post it.

Fobio
08-19-2012, 01:13 AM
I still have the coffee cup ill take a pic and post it.

be careful if you guys empty the crud into a plastic cup. the gas/oil combo might melt plastic and leak all over.

loki
08-19-2012, 02:02 AM
be careful if you guys empty the crud into a plastic cup. the gas/oil combo might melt plastic and leak all over.

Not might, it will melt it

Turok
08-19-2012, 08:08 AM
be careful if you guys empty the crud into a plastic cup. the gas/oil combo might melt plastic and leak all over.

Fak!!! my driveway.... Brb gonna go check and dispose of it.

Update - No leaking or mess in the driveway but it was soaking through the timmies cup nicely :)

Mr Wilson
01-20-2013, 07:36 PM
Make sure to check your occ. 6000 km of winter driving it was pretty full.

http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee491/pdubniak/IMG033_zps9ce85dff.jpg

Thrizzl3
01-20-2013, 07:56 PM
thats it lol?

Mr Wilson
01-20-2013, 08:29 PM
That's half a large Second Cup frozen coffee cup. OCC must have been at least 3/4 full!

2012speed3
01-20-2013, 08:34 PM
I need a catch can setup asap!

Fack_Dude
01-20-2013, 10:38 PM
I need a catch can setup asap!

Yeah. You better hurry up.

pwdunmore
01-21-2013, 12:05 AM
Make sure to check your occ. 6000 km of winter driving it was pretty full.


That's a lot! I get maybe 100ml each time I empty mine at 5000km intervals. And that's with shaking the OCC too lol.

2zoom
01-21-2013, 10:08 AM
Decided to empty mine a few weeks back and also surprised how full the OCC was. This is roughly about 6000 km

http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/9859/photo4fz.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/16/photo4fz.jpg/)

loki
01-21-2013, 10:12 AM
That's a lot! I get maybe 100ml each time I empty mine at 5000km intervals. And that's with shaking the OCC too lol.

you need to shake it more, and wait, then shake it some more. It's in there.

Elusivellama
01-21-2013, 11:49 AM
Make sure to check your occ. 6000 km of winter driving it was pretty full.


I recognize that cup! Too bad the contents don't look all that different from the iced frappuchino you were drinking earlier in the day :P

2012speed3
01-21-2013, 05:00 PM
Any thoughts on this kit? http://www.damondmotorsports.com/DMocc-ms3-2.html

loki
01-21-2013, 05:02 PM
Any thoughts on this kit? http://www.damondmotorsports.com/DMocc-ms3-2.html

looks pretty similar to the Mspeed kit

2012speed3
01-22-2013, 08:29 PM
looks pretty similar to the Mspeed kit

ordered one

TJ905
03-27-2013, 07:20 PM
Where can i get a good kit? Whats the usual cost? I never realised the stuff that was floating around my motor.... :(

Fobio
05-27-2014, 10:50 AM
It has come to my attention that cars that recently had their OCC serviced ran into problems afterwards.

A shop had problems with draining the gunk from the OCC [likely to due to infrequent drainings...or impatience] and apparently, the can itself was torched to loosen the gunk. As part of the procedure, the fittings and hosing were loosened but were not reassembled correctly. The result of this is the fittings/hosing would detach. The two instances I speak of, one was the day after, and the other happened two weeks later. Both instances were reported after a hot day of driving around town.

Both reported trouble with idling and low throttle. Both cars drove fine at normal cruising speeds.

The point of this post:

1. The orientation of the drainage nipple can be confusing. Always double check it's tightened after draining.
2. The gunk in the OCC can be difficult if not drained regularly:
a. Drain your can regularly
b. You can stick a straw or even a thicker zip tie thru the bottom drain to loosen the gunk.
c. TRY to avoid using a blow torch. If you do...be careful...contents are flammable.
d. Remember to reattach all hoses and fittings.
3. Feel free to bring this issue up with *ANY* shop that will service your OCC.
4. It's easier to drain if the car's warm after a drive.

I hope this helps others.

m_bisson
07-06-2014, 06:41 AM
Are these worthwhile on engines without turbos?

Flagrum_3
07-06-2014, 11:07 AM
Are these worthwhile on engines without turbos?

I'd say Nope!


_3

greyseason
07-06-2014, 11:49 AM
Are these worthwhile on engines without turbos?
They can be beneficial on a DI motor

TheMAN
07-06-2014, 10:25 PM
all that work... I rather have the Mann-Hummel oil separator can and just plumb it back into the oil pan... no worries about draining it/heating it up/running out of oil in the motor
the crap will get boiled off anyway... would you rather have less to no oil in the engine or always have basically full level?

https://www.mann-hummel.com/fileadmin/user_upload/service/catalogues/pdf/ProVent_en_2013.pdf

JSharrmz
01-07-2015, 11:23 PM
Leave it to me to ressurect a dead post , but my can is fkn frozen right now lmao I'm trying to let it idle to warm it up as my engine stays cold af when I drive and my bats are literally 15 when I step on it.. -23 right now..

miako
01-08-2015, 06:16 AM
I used a hair dryer to warm things up gently. Target the surroundings and let it warm up while parked in the garage, say 30 mins, then drain it. I have had bad experience with heat gun, I now take my sweet time.

Elusivellama
02-16-2015, 10:23 PM
Make sure you drain your oil catch can at least every 2 weeks during the winter, you will not believe how much water and other crap is inside that can after only 15 days. I just cleaned my Saikou Michi oil catch can 2 weeks after an oil change, and it had enough crap inside to almost fill up a Tim Horton's L cup.

I also use a hair dryer to warm things up, I just blast it directly at the catch can for about 10 mins or so, then I open the valve up and lightly knock the can with my knuckles to get as much out as possible. I don't bother with a hose or any of that shit, too much ****ing work, just put a cup / bottom half of a milk carton under the can (sitting on the mud guard) and let it drain directly down into it.

ecbehrens
02-24-2015, 03:18 PM
Make sure you drain your oil catch can at least every 2 weeks during the winter, you will not believe how much water and other crap is inside that can after only 15 days. I just cleaned my Saikou Michi oil catch can 2 weeks after an oil change, and it had enough crap inside to almost fill up a Tim Horton's L cup.

I also use a hair dryer to warm things up, I just blast it directly at the catch can for about 10 mins or so, then I open the valve up and lightly knock the can with my knuckles to get as much out as possible. I don't bother with a hose or any of that shit, too much ****ing work, just put a cup / bottom half of a milk carton under the can (sitting on the mud guard) and let it drain directly down into it.

Definitely second this. I installed the Corksport OCC on Dec 21st thinking I would be ok for at least a month of driving (I do about 20km a day). Around January 15th I noticed white smoke coming out the back intermittently and at first thought it was condensation. Checked the Can on the weekend and it was full and frozen with water. The line coming in was also backed up and frozen. Long story short it started building pressure and oil had to go somewhere. I warmed it up and emptied. 2 weeks later same issue but this time it was worse, as soon as I noticed it I went to check the catch can again, my Oil dip stick popped out and oil had come up and sprayed the engine bay. 2 weeks!! Catch can was full again with a little oil and a lot of frozen water.

I'm seriously debating taking the whole thing out but will probably keep it and checking it every two weeks. Will be easier to maintain and drain when its not -20C outside. I made a small 3" hole on the splash tray right under the can for easy access with an allen key to drain it.