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stock3
05-27-2012, 09:08 AM
It’s a possible fix because some parking brake cables may be frozen (read rusted) beyond repair.

My parking brake cable has been frozen for about a year now so I decided that it's finally the time to take a look at it. Basically if I used the parking brake, the handle would have no cable tension for about one click. After one click you could feel the resistance again. The cable wasn't retracting all the way.
So here is the arrangement.

http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv330/krzysiekz1981/My%20Car%20Stuff/2012-05-26083318.jpg

First order of business is to take that spring off. You can use vice grips or adjustable pliers. Just grab the spring end that is facing you and push it away from the notch it sits on.

http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv330/krzysiekz1981/My%20Car%20Stuff/2012-05-26083351.jpg

Once the spring is off, the brake cable can be easily pulled off from the lever. I don't have a picture of that procedure, but I used the screwdriver to push the lever to the left slightly, and then move the cable away from me.
Here is how the cable looked like. As you can see it's pretty rusty.

http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv330/krzysiekz1981/My%20Car%20Stuff/2012-05-26083631.jpg

But this rust is not really causing the cable to stick. It is the sleeve that the cable was wrapped in all the way to the end. What happens is that this plastic sleeve gets brittle and peels away. Unfortunately it only peels away to the point where the rubber grommet starts, since it's protected from elements after that point. This sleeve catches on the grommet or maybe the plastic flange whenever it passes that point when the parking lever is released.
Here is the pick of it.

http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv330/krzysiekz1981/My%20Car%20Stuff/2012-05-26084332.jpg

What I did was pull the cable as far out as I could and cut off the plastic sleeve. This way the end of the sleeve no longer travels over the end of that plastic flange and won't catch on it. In order to pull the cable that far, however I had to release all the tension on the parking brake lever. Just turn the tensioning nut all the way until it reaches the top. Before you do that, however you should measure or just visually remember how far the bolt was sticking out before you turned the nut.
Here is a pic of the nut after I loosened it all the way. Before I loosened the nut you could see about an inch of the bolt, but it may be different for everyone.

http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv330/krzysiekz1981/My%20Car%20Stuff/2012-05-26084118.jpg

After I exposed as much of the sleeve as I could, I simply cut it with a utility knife. Don't go too crazy, though because you may be cutting into the cable itself. After that I lubbed the cable with some chain lube. I sprayed a little each time into the plastic grommet hole and moved the cable by hand to work in the lube. You can use some other lube like ATF or regular oil, but I find that chain lube is best for this sort of thing because it's thin when sprayed but becomes tacky after a while, so it will stay in place. I would avoid white grease, silicon spray and other general lube sprays as they will not last long in this case.

http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv330/krzysiekz1981/My%20Car%20Stuff/2012-05-26085300.jpg

This is about it. The parking brake works like new again. One thing I forgot to mention is that this happened only on driver's side of the car, the other side moves freely. Also, since the plastic sleeve is now gone the cable is now exposed to elements and will rust, so I expect that I will have to inspect it annually or so and re-lube as necessary. Still, better than replacing the whole thing.

Campin
06-22-2013, 12:37 AM
Hey stock3.. how is this fix holding up and how often do you check it? My parking break partially-seized last summer, I would get resistance for the first about 100 meters then I would feel it fully release.. Since then I just haven't used it, afraid it has fully seized by now but I'm thinking of trying your fix.. cheaper then a new cable...

silverstarmazda
06-22-2013, 01:06 AM
hmm, this is going on my to do list! is using this okay?? my experience with the green can is that its pretty much like thin grease. plus it also stays in place when it gets wet and its pretty much lube... only problem i would see is if it starts attracting debris and ill have to clean them again.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AutoBodyRepair1/AutoBodyRustControl/PRD~0477921P/Rust+Check+Coat+%26+Protect.jsp?locale=en

stock3
06-22-2013, 09:32 AM
The fix is holding up great. I checked it once before winter when I was changing to winter wheels and once again this spring when i was changing back to summer wheels. Everything looked good and i didn't even have to lube it again. But I will lube the cable every winter though, to keep things free.
Also, the exposed and lubed up portion of the cable did not attract as much dirt as I thought. There is a slight layer of dust on it, but it is not impeding with the cable operation in any way. Parking brake works nice and smooth and releases with no problems.
I will be rust proofing the car soon, so I will try and take some pics how it all looks like after a year.

Edit:
I also performed this fix for a friend of mine last year, end of summer. His parking brake was siezed solid on both sides to the point where they would not grab at all, also the slider pins were seized. I fix the parking brake cable just as i did mine and lubed up the caliper slider pins. His brakes work fine to this day, although he needs new pads and rotoras by now.

Campin
06-23-2013, 01:20 AM
Thx for the reply.. I'm going to give it a try...

tinman
09-23-2013, 07:18 PM
Thanks stock3, safe me hundreds of $$$. Awesome!

Cab0oze
09-23-2013, 10:15 PM
Good how to, I'm sure it'll help quite a few people as this is a common problem on older 3s in canada.

stock3
10-27-2013, 09:45 PM
I was changing to winter wheels today and doing something else, bonus points to anyone who can guess what:P and I snapped a pic of the parking brake cable. I have not touched or re-lubricated the cable since I did the fix and as you can see there is no rust, only a bit of dirt that got stuck to the lube. So the fix works long term as well.;)

http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv330/krzysiekz1981/My%20Car%20Stuff/IMAG0273_zps2ca6849c.jpg (http://s696.photobucket.com/user/krzysiekz1981/media/My%20Car%20Stuff/IMAG0273_zps2ca6849c.jpg.html)

Cab0oze
10-27-2013, 10:42 PM
Good to hear, and weird that you updated this thread today, this morning I had to dig to find it to share with someone on M3F who was having the same problem

Booter22
10-27-2013, 10:57 PM
I wonder if a cable lubricator would have made it easier and cable lube should be on the maintenance list every few years..

brucewayne
10-27-2013, 11:21 PM
in for knowledge

stock3
10-28-2013, 08:40 AM
I wonder if a cable lubricator would have made it easier and cable lube should be on the maintenance list every few years..

It's hard to say because my passenger side is fine and I have not touched it since new. Only the driver's side was sticking and that's the only side I had to fix. Having said that, an annual inspection and lubrication of the cable is certainly a good idea. Extra lube never hurt anything in these types of situations

I'm still a firm believer that the root cause of this problem on Mazdas is the plastic coating on the cable that gets brittle and starts to peel off. Then it catches on the grommet and the cable never retracts all the way. Like I mentioned earlier, my passenger side is fine and that's because, for whatever reason, the cable still has the coating intact.

kimchisoup
11-09-2013, 03:23 AM
Wow,
thanks a lot for helpfull thread!!

just when I thought my Mazda3 didn't have any more problems...
discovered I have exact same issue with e-brake.

vertigo
01-26-2014, 08:42 PM
My right rear caliper has seized up... But when I yank the e-brake handle normally, it still clicks as many times and feels as it always has. Is it still possibly the e-brake cable or is it more likely the whole caliper itself? The ABS light is on in the dash too.

stock3
01-27-2014, 07:13 PM
My right rear caliper has seized up... But when I yank the e-brake handle normally, it still clicks as many times and feels as it always has. Is it still possibly the e-brake cable or is it more likely the whole caliper itself? The ABS light is on in the dash too.


Sounds like it's not the cable. When tha cable is seized, or sticking, you will feel no resistance when pulling the parking brake.

Caliper sticking is definitely a possibility, but more likely the caliper pins are siezed or sticking. In any case, both calipers and pins should be thoroughly inspected and lubed. If that is not enough, they should be replaced.

m_bisson
02-02-2014, 09:58 AM
A wire brush can do wonders, as can a file. It may not need replacing.

brucewayne
06-26-2014, 03:50 PM
howd you guys free the cable to even get in there to remove the plastic coating/wrap? if the strong and consistant spring doesn't move the cable, im wondering how you guys manage?

rcmasterj
11-01-2015, 09:08 PM
Thanks so much!! This helped alot. Super simple to do and half a can of wd-40 later it was all freed up. The passenger side was fine but the drivers side couldn't move. I cut the casing alittle bit so the lubricant could flow down easier. I found that if you twisted the cable with a pair of pliers slowly back and forth freed it up. I finished it off with a thin bicycle cable lube. This saved me hundreds of dollars!

ryan2.3
11-01-2015, 10:44 PM
FD22 this is what i was talking about we could try for your car. i think your problem is that it's not releasing all the way so you're getting that noise