Static in speakers when 12v socket is in use

[Chris RJG]

Okay so ive had this problem for ages now and am finally getting sick of it. My speakers are producing a static sound that increases in intensity and pitch corresponding to the revs of the engine. i figure it has to do with some work ive done previously so ill break it down so that someone might be able to point me to the most likely point of issue.

Sound system installed: low output converter tapped into rear speaker lines, 800w amp and capacitor.
interior lights: LEDs in all door pockets and under seats, sound sensitives under the dash
Exterior lighting: LEDs mounted behind grill

I figure that the static is coming from interference created by the extra draw from the 12v socket in the storage compartment of the centre console where i tapped into for all my interior lighting, i say this because if my 12v sockets (centre of dash or compartment) arent in use there is no static. However if i have an accessory plugged into either socket i get this static coming from all speakers including the subwoofers (which makes sense, they're getting their signal from the rear speakers). I know some people will say just dont use the sockets but i constantly use one to charge my ipod while im driving.

A friend of a friend suggested a bad ground connection, so i was wondering if maybe making the ground for the power source i tapped into a lower gauge wire would help anything, or maybe grounding my interior lights directly to the frame rather than existing ground wire of the 12v source.

the other alternative i have would be to instal another 12v socket directly from the battery as i already have one handy from an old car that was meant for custom installation.

Any and all suggestions are appreciated.

[The Wolf]

My audio is bone stock and I have the same issue

[Chris RJG]

@sawatsky, im going to be messing around double checking connections and playing with upgrading ground lines tomorrow if i find the time. ill message you if i have any success that may help you out.

[The Wolf]

I appreciate that! thanks man

[silverstarmazda]

sounds like it could be an electrical interference. i kno wen i switch over to AM to one of the clear channels. itll follower the rpm of the car. always thought its the alternator giving off magnetic interference or some witch craft like that. have you tried unscrewing the antenna and cleaning the contacts? not sure if thatll do anything... but its worth a try? :/

[rzapata]

Gots that too. I just ignore it really.

[Chris RJG]

i had been ignoring for quite some time aswell, listened to a lot of dubstep so i kind of fit in. but lately ive been listening to "cleaner" or crisper sounding music so its starting to stand out again

[k13]

Grab some ferrites and throw them around the speaker wires in the doors. Tape them down to the car so they don't rattle around when driving. That should nuke any high frequency noise on the lines

http://www.metals-b2b.com/b2b/pics/Ferrites_Core.jpg

[Chris RJG]

ill give those ferrites a shot, should be able to get them at a local electronics place i think. anyone know by chance the gauge or mm size of the speaker wires so i can buy the right size? doors are already dynomatted so i shouldnt even have to tape them. thanks for the suggestion k13

[xxSlidewaysxx]

Your lights (LED) should not create noise, best bet is check the grounding on your amp. If you can, run a new one, ideally, right back to the battery.

[trulankan]

are u listening to audio via the AUX connection and charging your device at the same time using the 12v? if so thats whats causing it cause it happened to me as well when I had my stock head unit

[TheMAN]

try a ground loop isolator... cures many problems

[zoomahh]

Your lights (LED) should not create noise, best bet is check the grounding on your amp. If you can, run a new one, ideally, right back to the battery.

Regarding grounding your amp....if mean when you say "run a length of wire ALL the way back to battery"....that's considered a no no in audio world. Apparently from each article I read about amp installs, less than 2 feet is recommended for ground wires. And even less is you can.

@ OP /\ /\ /\ Another thing, since OP didn't mention, make sure your ground wire is the same gauge as your power-line. And when you ground it (use the seatbelt bolt down) use a grinder to remove the chassis paint where your ring connector makes contact with the bolt and chassis. That could be it as well. Also, you didn't mention how you have your signal wire run. On the stereo upgrade I did on my last mz3 I owned, we ran the signal wire right alongside of the powe-line......BIIIIIG NO NO!!! and for the next 4 years, I had to listen to stereo noise whine, loud pops each time I would start and stop my car, signal light usage...This time (see my ice upgrade link in my sig, I also posted my wire diagram) I ran the sig wire beside my speaker wire and PRESTO! ! ! !no clicks, whines, pops, etc etc.... ;)
Hope this helps bro

[zoomahh]

try a ground loop isolator... cures many problems

/\ /\ what he said
Ya before you start tearing things apart, try that ;)

[zmz3]

try a ground loop isolator... cures many problems


/\ /\ what he said
Ya before you start tearing things apart, try that ;)

I have the same issue and it is annoying.

Any tips on the parts/labour (how to guide?) involved?

Thanks!

[leungalv]

try a ground loop isolator... cures many problems

+1 ... I bought a ground loop isolator for my AUX connection, now no more buzz :)

[zmz3]

Is this on Mazda3 only? I tried my mom's CR-V and no such issue... I'll try dad's Accord...

Hmmmm...

Group loop insulator is soon as I guess...

[thanu31]

i have same issue on my M3 too

[Chris RJG]

Hey sorry guys, been awhile since ive been on the forum. My audio lines are all done solidly. using minimal cable, rcas run opposite power, short length of ground to a reliable spot. Thing is though that the interference goes through all speakers, not just the subs. I did the big 3 last night, (still working out the kinks on the alternator line) and the static seems to be lessened but not entirely gone.

when i have some cash flow again ill give the ground loop insulator a shot, can anyone give me an estimate on cost? ps. i tried the ferrites mentioned early on in the thread to no avail.