Hard to shift in cold weather any suggestions ?

[Jim94]

Hi everyone my name is Jim I am new to this site and had a question.

I recently purchased a used 2010 Mazda 3 GT Sedan 6 speed/manual its at 65000 km

When I get out to go to school in the morning its impossible to shift from 1st to 2nd it feels like theres a brick wall but its fine to put it in to 3rd

Any suggestions or does it happen to anyone else

I extremely happy with my purchase I just want to make sure I don't break anything or strip the gears.

Thanks for your time

[peterm15]

It's just cold.


You could switch your tranny fluid to something like MT90 or other good synthetics it may help.

As long as your not grinding or burning your clutch you'll be fine.

[Jim94]

Thanks Ill try that and is it possible to get a remote starter for manual M3? because I have to put the clutch in to start

[peterm15]

Thanks Ill try that and is it possible to get a remote starter for manual M3? because I have to put the clutch in to start

It is for sure possible. It's some sort of override.

Check out the sponsor section for lockdown security or audio haven. Personal experience with both and both great to deal with.

[silverstarmazda]

let the car idle for a minute or two. let it get some heat.

[Flagrum_3]

Letting the car warm up a couple of minutes helps somewhat, but unless you switch over to synthetic, you'll always have an issue with hard shifting in cold temps. Synthetic is the only way to solve the issue, atleast about 90% anyways. Until then, (and if, you decide to switch to syntheitic) a good practice is to shift slower when the transmission is still cold, giving the synchros time to mesh.

_3

[Cab0oze]

Double clutch until your trans is warmed up, it makes worlds of difference, at least in my car

[boo-ninja]

Letting the car warm up a couple of minutes helps somewhat, but unless you switch over to synthetic, you'll always have an issue with hard shifting in cold temps. Synthetic is the only way to solve the issue, atleast about 90% anyways. Until then, (and if, you decide to switch to syntheitic) a good practice is to shift slower when the transmission is still cold, giving the synchros time to mesh.

_3
And don't go into the high rpms, untill its warm. help the engine and your tranny!

[5_Alive]

Double clutch until your trans is warmed up, it makes worlds of difference, at least in my car

Same here.. sounds silly but it makes things smoother.

Also +1 on the synthetic fluid like everyone else suggested..

[Simon99]

http://s9.postimage.org/5blwakoj3/247611_421118501277264_781255941_n.jpg

[sarujo]

OP should be using synthetic trans oil. Use the product selector tool on the Redline website to pick the appropriate oil.

http://www.redlineoil.com/application.aspx

[Zuluwun]

Been running MT-90 for just over 2 years now and I'm not convinced it makes that much of a difference when cold. Once it warms up a little, it's great, but cold? I find it to be a very marginal improvement over stock in my experience.

I've made a habit of granny shifting on cold mornings till it warms up a bit (which only takes a few km realistically).

[Flagrum_3]

Been running MT-90 for just over 2 years now and I'm not convinced it makes that much of a difference when cold. Once it warms up a little, it's great, but cold? I find it to be a very marginal improvement over stock in my experience.

I've made a habit of granny shifting on cold mornings till it warms up a bit (which only takes a few km realistically).

Been using Redline 75W-90NS for years now and fine it smooths out shifting almost 100%, (90% being more accurate), even in the coldest temps. Mind you I always let the car warm up; warm-up time relative to the temperature.

_3

[wmzda5]

2 things you need to do.
1. Change transmission gear oil.
2. On a really cold day try pumping the pedals before you shift and before running the engine.

Im sure you have not change the transmission gear oil yet. change it as soon as possible. It will help in lining those synchronizers.

[sarujo]

I'm using slightly thinner MTL, which is the Redline recommended fluid for the 2010+. My car sits outside at work, but underground at home. Whenever I leave work and it is cold outside, the first few shifts aren't as smooth. After a minute or two it smooths out nicely again. I only idle a couple of minutes before *slowly* driving off. Car warms up faster this way and wastes less fuel.

If you are 2010 or newer, the MT-90 may be slightly too heavy, thus giving you degraded cold shifting. TheMan and Booter22 have both posted TSB info about MT fluids in other threads. In a nutshell: if you use a slightly heavier oil than spec'd, cold weather shifting may suffer; if thinner, wear and whine are possible.


Been running MT-90 for just over 2 years now and I'm not convinced it makes that much of a difference when cold. Once it warms up a little, it's great, but cold? I find it to be a very marginal improvement over stock in my experience.

I've made a habit of granny shifting on cold mornings till it warms up a bit (which only takes a few km realistically).

[Booter22]

I'm using slightly thinner MTL, which is the Redline recommended fluid for the 2010+. My car sits outside at work, but underground at home. Whenever I leave work and it is cold outside, the first few shifts aren't as smooth. After a minute or two it smooths out nicely again. I only idle a couple of minutes before *slowly* driving off. Car warms up faster this way and wastes less fuel.

If you are 2010 or newer, the MT-90 may be slightly too heavy, thus giving you degraded cold shifting. TheMan and Booter22 have both posted TSB info about MT fluids in other threads. In a nutshell: if you use a slightly heavier oil than spec'd, cold weather shifting may suffer; if thinner, wear and whine are possible.

true, and i use motul 75W90. for 50,000km. not so nice when cold but once it warms up its ok. girlfriends car has ford syncromesh. same deal. its just the fluid is cold and "thicker" then if it was warm. put me out side in cold weather and ask me to move at normal speed. i will take a while too until im warmed up. no way around it.

[nuttygent]

As you know the days are colder of late, be prepared to shift your gearbox much slower in anything colder than -2 to-3C. ALWAYS let the car warm up at least a few minutes on these days. I have switched to Amsoil synthetic gear lube with noticeable improvement, but any of the good synthetics will suffice...good luck.

[Flagrum_3]

As you know the days are colder of late, be prepared to shift your gearbox much slower in anything colder than -2 to-3C. ALWAYS let the car warm up at least a few minutes on these days. I have switched to Amsoil synthetic gear lube with noticeable improvement, but any of the good synthetics will suffice...good luck.

Well I've mentioned this many times on here; Synthetic is the only way. But which synthetic is also a good question. As I've also mentioned I switched to Redline 75w-90NS mainly because of the fact it lacks friction modifiers to help slow the syncros, which I believed was the problem with our trannys. Anyways, I can honestly say with this gear oil I am very pleased and notice very little to no issues with changing gears, especially in this type of cold. As an example when I first started my car today it had sat for atleast a day and a half, so everything was quite cold. Started it and let it warm up for approximately 1 & 1/2 minutes, drove off and seriously had no problems...Shifting was smooth as silk, with no word of a lie...I highly recommend people with first generation Mazda 3s' switch to the Redline 75W90 NS for exceptional performance.

Check it out on the Redline site, and if anyone wonders, I've been using this gear oil for near 5 years now with no issues.

_3

[Genpu_Mz3]

i have a 2010 mazda 3, all i do is let it idle for a couple mins before i go anywhere and it shifts fine, just hoping in the car and taking off will take a bit to shif, and also, its not always the fluid thats too thick, you gotta take your shifter linkage into perspective too, its plastic and metal, shit will freeze or become stiffer from the cold weather, (just like if you left a soccer ball out side in the snow it becomes hard, but once you warm it up, it goes back to normal) but as you work it in it becomes easier. i still have the stock fluid in my car, i have 63,000km on it, and its fine. dont worry about your fluid soo much. on that note, if you let you car warm up and your still having a hard time shifting and or getting it into gear, then you may wanna look more into your fluid. but be prepared to fork over some $$$$$

just my 2 cents.

[sarujo]

According to Redline's site, the 75w90 NS is a GL-5 spec'd oil:

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=47&pcid=7

I know that the 2010's (regular 3's) and newer require GL-4 oil. You should not use a GL-5 oil in a GL-4 spec'd transmission, as it can damage the brass synchros.

Are you sure the Gen 1's will take GL-5?



Well I've mentioned this many times on here; Synthetic is the only way. But which synthetic is also a good question. As I've also mentioned I switched to Redline 75w-90NS mainly because of the fact it lacks friction modifiers to help slow the syncros, which I believed was the problem with our trannys. Anyways, I can honestly say with this gear oil I am very pleased and notice very little to no issues with changing gears, especially in this type of cold. As an example when I first started my car today it had sat for atleast a day and a half, so everything was quite cold. Started it and let it warm up for approximately 1 & 1/2 minutes, drove off and seriously had no problems...Shifting was smooth as silk, with no word of a lie...I highly recommend people with first generation Mazda 3s' switch to the Redline 75W90 NS for exceptional performance.

Check it out on the Redline site, and if anyone wonders, I've been using this gear oil for near 5 years now with no issues.

_3

[Flagrum_3]

According to Redline's site, the 75w90 NS is a GL-5 spec'd oil:

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=47&pcid=7

I know that the 2010's (regular 3's) and newer require GL-4 oil. You should not use a GL-5 oil in a GL-4 spec'd transmission, as it can damage the brass synchros.

Are you sure the Gen 1's will take GL-5?

I'm not sure about the 2010s. As for on Gen1's, GL-5 gear oil is allowed, according to the manual. Anyways, read my last sentence, been using it for approx 5 years now and 100k. I'm currently at 195k and have no issues whatsoever. My tranny runs and shifts smooth as silk.

_3

[Zuluwun]

That's kind of interesting since, reading between the lines on Redline's site, I was under the impression that NS traded smoothness for protection as compared to MT-90.

[sarujo]

Here is what is in my 2010 MZ3 manual. It only shows GL-4. Interesting note about the Gen 1's allowing GL-5.

Flagrum_3: Glad to hear your setup has worked out great! Can you post what's in your manual as well?

http://i1041.photobucket.com/albums/b411/sarujoku/MToilspec2010_zpse9fb40f6.jpg

[Flagrum_3]

Sorry sarujo, I would but my scanner is DOA. Maybe someone else can scan and post it. In the 2005 Owner's manual, info can be found on page 10-4.


_3

[Flagrum_3]

That's kind of interesting since, reading between the lines on Redline's site, I was under the impression that NS traded smoothness for protection as compared to MT-90.

Actually you are misinterpreting the discription. The NS oil has it's friction modifiers reduced, which allows the syncros to slow down. Problem with regular oil or other synthetics, is that they are too slippery and the syncros spin to fast, taking them longer to mess-up. By balancing the slipperiness and therefore slowing the syncros, it will allow for better/quicker meshing of the syncros....

Hope that makes sense.

_3

[lcianf01]

Didn't read whole thing,

But i've got mt-90 in my 05, and when i just start it up and try to go on -10 days the shifter don't wanna move at all into or out of first is day. but usually i remote start it for 10minutes so don't have that issue:)

just saying syntheic is not a guarenteed solution for an 05 anyways

[Zuluwun]

Actually you are misinterpreting the discription. The NS oil has it's friction modifiers reduced, which allows the syncros to slow down. Problem with regular oil or other synthetics, is that they are too slippery and the syncros spin to fast, taking them longer to mess-up. By balancing the slipperiness and therefore slowing the syncros, it will allow for better/quicker meshing of the syncros....

Hope that makes sense.

_3

Oh, no it does makes sense. I just hadn't considered that it could err on the side of not enough friction (ie. I didn't think it could be TOO slippery... lol, there's a joke in there somewhere)

I might just make the switch if that's the case.

[lcianf01]

-

[morganc]

AC Delco Synchromesh Transmission Fluid. It's what the dealers now use. It's fantastic.

[5_Alive]

So I'm thinking Motul 75W-90 in the 2nd gen Speed 3 is a safe bet??? Or Amsoil, or Redline?

I'm starting to get really annoyed with the shifting BS here as well..

[Flagrum_3]

So I'm thinking Motul 75W-90 in the 2nd gen Speed 3 is a safe bet??? Or Amsoil, or Redline?

I'm starting to get really annoyed with the shifting BS here as well..

I may be wrong, but I don't believe the 2nd Gen MS3 calls for 75w-90. Check out the redline site and key-in the info for your car, I believe they call for a 70w80 GL-4 for your car.

_3

[5_Alive]

I may be wrong, but I don't believe the 2nd Gen MS3 calls for 75w-90. Check out the redline site and key-in the info for your car, I believe they call for a 70w80 GL-4 for your car.

_3


Sweet.. I totally didn't think of it. I'm so used to my first gen and all..

[Flagrum_3]

Sweet.. I totally didn't think of it. I'm so used to my first gen and all..

Then do yourself a favour and read thru your MS3 owner's manual. Who knows what other surprises await you ;)


_3

[5_Alive]

Then do yourself a favour and read thru your MS3 owner's manual. Who knows what other surprises await you ;)


_3

Haha no kidding!
Truth be told I'm still stuck in lala land of Gen 1..

But I shall read the book..

[Core]

I would have to say that synthetic does not seem to help with shifting when cold. I would go as far to say that synthetic in cold is harder to shift than conventional. For sure getting into first and then second is difficult in the cold. However, as suggested in the thread, letting your car warm a bit helps a great deal. Synthetic in the summer is great and I have noticed smoother shifting and possibly an increase in fuel economy, or so I tell myself.

[Flagrum_3]

I would have to say that synthetic does not seem to help with shifting when cold. I would go as far to say that synthetic in cold is harder to shift than conventional. For sure getting into first and then second is difficult in the cold. However, as suggested in the thread, letting your car warm a bit helps a great deal. Synthetic in the summer is great and I have noticed smoother shifting and possibly an increase in fuel economy, or so I tell myself.

Well I'll have to disagree with you completely. Synthetic definitely makes a difference and big-time, observed by myself and many others. It's common sense why so; Regular gear-oil in very cold temps will basically thicken into almost a molassas, meaning it will not flow well in sub-zero temps, whereas synthetic is not effected quite as bad, allowing practically normal flow down to even -45C temps in some cases as with Red-line. If your gear oil can't flow and your gears and synchros are sitting in molasses, what do you think would occur? ...Poor shifting...Synthetic eliminates this issue.

_3

[Hads_Carbon3]

Didn't notice much of a difference when i switched to synthetic! But then again I let my car idle a bit before i drive off.

[Chrisinski]

Yeah I always hated leaving for work at 6am and having a hell of a time getting into 1st n 2nd for the first two stoplights of my trek lol. I asked my local Dealer about it, they told me " let er warm up ".:rolleyes

[Jim94]

Red Line recommends d4 ATF for my 2010 should I grab the D4 or the MT 90?

[Wes08M3]

Red Line recommends d4 ATF for my 2010 should I grab the D4 or the MT 90?

MT-90 is for manual transmissions only. If you have an auto, do not use it. If you have a manual, do not use the D4 ATF.

[Jim94]

Ok thanks

[Wes08M3]

Also, if you have a gen2 (with a manual trans obviously), MT-90 is not the right fluid for your transmission. You need a 75w-80 gear oil not a 75w-90 which is what MT-90 is.

Get Motul 75w-80 if you have a gen2.

[Jim94]

Yeah I have a 2010 GT 6 speed manual so thanks for clearing that up

[morganc]

Everyone, please ignore any of my claims about this fluid. I just dropped a 3rd gear synchro and will now be switching to RedLine. FML


AC Delco Synchromesh Transmission Fluid. It's what the dealers now use. It's fantastic.

[shift8]

Yeah I always hated leaving for work at 6am and having a hell of a time getting into 1st n 2nd for the first two stoplights of my trek lol. I asked my local Dealer about it, they told me " let er warm up ".:rolleyes

This.

I just take it really easy for the first 10 mins of driving. For first gear I typically have to just come to a complete stop and let things fall into place. I can force it in of course, but I prefer to let the synchro handle that part for me instead of forcing it in. Nobody likes it forced in without some lube :)

FYI, Redline MT-90.

[morganc]

Ditto, the Redline is awesome stuff and it's not really that expensive.

[Ps3alltheway]

So just to be sure owners of second gen mazda 3 should be using redline mtl which is 70w80 thats is good for 75w80 recommend cars. Is that right? So ad anyone actually tried it yet? Oh and btw im refering to the 6speed version not automatic

[sarujo]

Yes. You can double check with the Redline selector tool on their website.

[shift8]

Also listed in the owners manual in the back.