Brake pads + rotors

[cSPEED]

Time for some new brake pads.. Looking for the following and hoping someone can help:
Quiet (not those train noise Hawk pads)
Close to OEM functionality
Cheaper than stock

I don't need crazy performance as I don't track my car enough to warrant it.

Looked into stock, it was too expensive for me even with the TM3 discount($300 for pads wtfaaaaaak). Same criteria for rotors and pads.

Rotors I guess I'd spend a little more since its a mechanical part and I'd want it to last. DBA is too expensive for me so I doubt that's an option.

Little of a tight budget considering I have my transmission/clutch to worry about right now as well.

Any help would be awesome.

[Fobio]

Hawk Ceramics are not bad...stock rotors are actually quite cheap in comparison...

[cSPEED]

I never even checked pricing on stock rotors as I thought they would be a little expensive as the brake pads were. Are there better rotor options for the same price as stock?

[Shinglez]

I have a connection for a full set of pads and rotors (regular/drilled/drilled & slotted). I got them all for $220. If you're interested send me a PM with your car's info (year & model) and I can get a set made for you. They are as close to OEM as possible, and you can get the rotors made however you like with no added cost.

[Cab0oze]

Time for some new brake pads.. Looking for the following and hoping someone can help:
Quiet (not those train noise Hawk pads)
Close to OEM functionality
Cheaper than stock

Rotors I guess I'd spend a little more since its a mechanical part and I'd want it to last. DBA is too expensive for me so I doubt that's an option.
Rotors are rotors. There really isn't much to them. Get yourself some blanks (low risk of failure, and much quieter), and paint the hub if you like with BBQ paint or equiv and you're good. You could also look into getting your OEM rotors resurfaced.... just because you replace pads doesn't mean you need to replace rotors.

Spend your money on pads. Pad material varies a lot between brands etc and some work well, some dont. OEM is best, otherwise get whatever 'street' replacement you can afford that is made by a reputable manufacturer.

Also note that hawks are not ALL actually noisy as fobio mentioned. I've used HPS and I never got more squeaks or other noises with them than i did with OEM. Only time i heard them was when it was rainy and cold (rusty rotors) and I used my brakes for the first time.
If yours were noisy, it was likely due to a poor installation job.
Hopefully that post made sense, was in a bit of a rush writing lol


Few years ago, I replaced my brakes for 200 bucks using ontario made parts (bought from ebay, but maybe the same manufacturer as Shinglez was talking about...). The pads did not work when they were cold and I almost died a few times on the highway. Would not recommend. DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON BRAKE PADS. cant stress that enough.

[greyseason]

I have a connection for a full set of pads and rotors (regular/drilled/drilled & slotted). I got them all for $220. If you're interested send me a PM with your car's info (year & model) and I can get a set made for you. They are as close to OEM as possible, and you can get the rotors made however you like with no added cost.
what a freekin awesome deal. i priced out stoptech rotors 4 for $400 on sale

[cSPEED]

what a freekin awesome deal. i priced out stoptech rotors 4 for $400 on sale

I've pmed him but the comparison you made is apples to oranges as we know nothing about the product.

[McGuyver_3]

Rotors are rotors. There really isn't much to them. Get yourself some blanks (low risk of failure, and much quieter), and paint the hub if you like with BBQ paint or equiv and you're good. You could also look into getting your OEM rotors resurfaced.... just because you replace pads doesn't mean you need to replace rotors.

Spend your money on pads. Pad material varies a lot between brands etc and some work well, some dont. OEM is best, otherwise get whatever 'street' replacement you can afford that is made by a reputable manufacturer.

Also note that hawks are not ALL actually noisy as fobio mentioned. I've used HPS and I never got more squeaks or other noises with them than i did with OEM. Only time i heard them was when it was rainy and cold (rusty rotors) and I used my brakes for the first time.
If yours were noisy, it was likely due to a poor installation job.
Hopefully that post made sense, was in a bit of a rush writing lol


Few years ago, I replaced my brakes for 200 bucks using ontario made parts (bought from ebay, but maybe the same manufacturer as Shinglez was talking about...). The pads did not work when they were cold and I almost died a few times on the highway. Would not recommend. DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON BRAKE PADS. cant stress that enough.

Just stop right there. Rotors are not just rotors. Trust me I made the biggest mistake in putting aftermarket rotors on my moms Murano. They were supposed to be "premium" rotors. Yeah bullshit. they warped and rusted really easily. Not going aftermarket again
I also had crosdrilled rotors aftermarket on my 05 and they warped really easily to.

Buy quality is all I can say

[cSPEED]

Just stop right there. Rotors are not just rotors. Trust me I made the biggest mistake in putting aftermarket rotors on my moms Murano. They were supposed to be "premium" rotors. Yeah bullshit. they warped and rusted really easily. Not going aftermarket again
I also had crosdrilled rotors aftermarket on my 05 and they warped really easily to.

Buy quality is all I can say

Yep, that's why I made this post.

[McGuyver_3]

I've pmed him but the comparison you made is apples to oranges as we know nothing about the product.

Stoptech are rather high end products and IMO worth the money

[S.F.W.]

If you are on a budget, but still want quality, go with OEM Rotors and Hawk HPS pads. Go to an affiliate dealer for the rotors and get a good discount.

[trulankan]

Rotors are rotors. There really isn't much to them. Get yourself some blanks (low risk of failure, and much quieter), and paint the hub if
Few years ago, I replaced my brakes for 200 bucks using ontario made parts (bought from ebay, but maybe the same manufacturer as Shinglez was talking about...). The pads did not work when they were cold and I almost died a few times on the highway. Would not recommend. DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON BRAKE PADS. cant stress that enough.

i know what you mean...i paid $400 for my rotors and pads from JR Auto (a sponsor). THey were good in the summer and fall weather but now in winter i dont feel safe with them. If it gets really cold and icy I will not be able to stop on the first brake. I have to make sure I press down on the brakes a couple of times to warm them up before I start moving if the car has been sitting outside for awhile. The brakes look great because they are drilled and slotted but they dont feel safe for winter driving. If you tend to drive without using the brakes alot like me then it makes it even worse when you actually need to stop. I have also notice they are are now pulsating when I come to a stop. I'm pretty sure the damn rotors are warped. I've had them for less than a year too!! :flaming

[SomeGuy]

Just replace with OEM...I made the mistake on my old car to try to save a few bucks and they were terrible. At the time I did the nextmod special, magnum rotors and hawk hps pads, absolute junk. I suspect it was the rotors that were junk, but the pads didn't fit all that great either, they were a bit snug in the rails.

That said, the pads didn't squeal...just load up on the anti-squeal on the back of the pads when you install and they'll be fine.

[Jackal]

If you are on a budget, but still want quality, go with OEM Rotors and Hawk HPS pads. Go to an affiliate dealer for the rotors and get a good discount.

I am using oem rotors with hawk hps pads and they work great. Actually doesn't squeal when I reverse on these pads after some rain the day before.

[Zuluwun]

Same boat Phil, I'll need new ones by summer at the latest.

I was planning to go OEM rotors or Centric blanks (quoted at around $140 by 2 sponsors) and probably the Stoptech Posi-quiet Ceramic pads (same two sponsors quoting me around $140). I'd say that's pretty good bang for buck right there.

I have my doubts about whether the pads will hold up to/perform well enough for the occasional autox session (one of the sponsors informed me that they "can be tracked") but for your purposes, I'd say those would definitely get the job done.

[standsideways]

I can vouch for the centric rotors(slotted), i liked them quite a bit on my sedan!

Pads i cant help, i run hp+ year round squeakin up a storm around town lol.

EDIT: i can safely say regular mz3 oem pads DO NOT work on track. I did a track day with oem REARS on my sedan and i cooked them VERRRY fast.

The oem SPEED3 pads are actually surprisingly good on the track...for about 4 laps lol

[SomeGuy]

I can vouch for the centric rotors(slotted), i liked them quite a bit on my sedan!

Pads i cant help, i run hp+ year round squeakin up a storm around town lol.

EDIT: i can safely say regular mz3 oem pads DO NOT work on track. I did a track day with oem REARS on my sedan and i cooked them VERRRY fast.

The oem SPEED3 pads are actually surprisingly good on the track...for about 4 laps lol

I'd imagine we could shut those hp+'s up quite a bit with some anti-squeal.

[standsideways]

Ryan you are THE anti squeak/squeal man!

They need lubed after every track day, the heat just incinerates that stuff.(high high temp version?)

[SomeGuy]

Just did some searching...seems they have some highish temp caliper lube (http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24115-Caliper-Hi-Temp-Silicone/dp/B000HBGKH4/ref=pd_sbs_auto_4) out there which you can apparently use as anti-squeal on the back of the pad but no actual anti-squeal. Shucks.

[Cab0oze]

Just stop right there. Rotors are not just rotors. Trust me I made the biggest mistake in putting aftermarket rotors on my moms Murano. They were supposed to be "premium" rotors. Yeah bullshit. they warped and rusted really easily. Not going aftermarket again
I also had crosdrilled rotors aftermarket on my 05 and they warped really easily to.K well i've replaced quite a few rotors in my time and have never had an issue with warping. Had lots of pad issues, caliper issues, but never rotor issues (especially warping... what were you doing to them lol)

I had cheap ontario made xdrilled rotors with no issues, but they look crappy rusty, and I wouldn't go that route again. Also leaves you more prone to cracking issues.


Just did some searching...seems they have some highish temp caliper lube (http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24115-Caliper-Hi-Temp-Silicone/dp/B000HBGKH4/ref=pd_sbs_auto_4) out there which you can apparently use as anti-squeal on the back of the pad but no actual anti-squeal. Shucks.

Huh? I'm pretty sure even cantire sells anti-squeal products for brakes...

[SomeGuy]

Huh? I'm pretty sure even cantire sells anti-squeal products for brakes...

Yes obviously, I have some of the standard fair permatex stuff. I was trying to find some high temp stuff that wouldn't get smoked on a track day.

[standsideways]

K well i've replaced quite a few rotors in my time and have never had an issue with warping. Had lots of pad issues, caliper issues, but never rotor issues (especially warping... what were you doing to them lol)

I had cheap ontario made xdrilled rotors with no issues, but they look crappy rusty, and I wouldn't go that route again. Also leaves you more prone to cracking issues.



Huh? I'm pretty sure even cantire sells anti-squeal products for brakes...

Warping isnt what you think...

Its not the actual solid mass of the rotor that gets warped, that would be nearly impossible with even the best racing brake pad you could get.

The face of the rotor is what "warps" and it is super super common with cheap rotors, the veins in the cheap rotors seem to create hotter spots and the pad cannot do its job of heating up and transferring a perfect layer of pad material onto the rotor face, leaving a "warped" surface rather than a perfectly bedded pad/rotor face

The term "warped rotors" is just interpreted wrong all the time.

And yes cantire sells anti squeal but it turns to dust in a few laps on track, and so does the HAWK lube they supply.

[tmpz]

I went with Mazda rotors $235 and Hawk HPS pads $160. I got Jimmy to install for about $220 which included labour for all 4, brake fluid and drain/fill.

I'm happy with them so far. The Hawk pads has lower bite compared to OEM and takes some time to get use to. They don't squeal, but they're still new.

[MajesticBlueNTO]

I'd imagine we could shut those hp+'s up quite a bit with some anti-squeal.


Ryan you are THE anti squeak/squeal man!

They need lubed after every track day, the heat just incinerates that stuff.(high high temp version?)

not sure if you guys are joking around like in the other thread but anti-squeal won't help HP+

anti-squeal gets applied to the back of the pad and makes it tacky. the tackiness causes the pads to stick to the "fingers" in the sliding caliper. by sticking to the calipers, the pads don't rattle or drag against the rotor.

The HP+ pad compound contains iron, which is what causes the squeal when the brakes are applied cold. no amount of anti-squeal applied to the back of the pad will alleviate the "cold" or slow speed squeal.

the only solution to preventing the squeal with HP+ is to get some heat in the pads...braking hard and fast solves that problem :)

[McGuyver_3]

K well i've replaced quite a few rotors in my time and have never had an issue with warping. Had lots of pad issues, caliper issues, but never rotor issues (especially warping... what were you doing to them lol)

I had cheap ontario made xdrilled rotors with no issues, but they look crappy rusty, and I wouldn't go that route again. Also leaves you more prone to cracking issues.



Huh? I'm pretty sure even cantire sells anti-squeal products for brakes...

Yes, I have replaced numerous amounts of rotors in my time as well. The OEM rotors never seem to come back, however the aftermarket rotors cause more problems then they are worth. Just buy quality brakes all the time. This plus the tires are the things you should spare NO EXPENSE on

[cSPEED]

I'm thinking of going oem rotors and some sort of minimum decent pads. The hawk seem reasonably priced so I may just try those. Should I get new lines while I'm at it?

[Mr Wilson]

Not needed. Can if you want, but not needed.

[Flagrum_3]

i know what you mean...i paid $400 for my rotors and pads from JR Auto (a sponsor). THey were good in the summer and fall weather but now in winter i dont feel safe with them. If it gets really cold and icy I will not be able to stop on the first brake. I have to make sure I press down on the brakes a couple of times to warm them up before I start moving if the car has been sitting outside for awhile. The brakes look great because they are drilled and slotted but they dont feel safe for winter driving. If you tend to drive without using the brakes alot like me then it makes it even worse when you actually need to stop. I have also notice they are are now pulsating when I come to a stop. I'm pretty sure the damn rotors are warped. I've had them for less than a year too!! :flaming

There is nothing wrong with the brakes you purchased at JR, I have the same set-up and no issues. Actually they stop really well. You must remember you have ceramic pads and they take a couple of applications to heat up


cSpeed: Are you talking flex hoses or lines? SS Flex hoses may be a worthy purchase if you track the car.


_3

[Zuluwun]

Do people find that SS lines make a noticeable difference or is it one of those things that's only obvious on the track?

[McGuyver_3]

Do people find that SS lines make a noticeable difference or is it one of those things that's only obvious on the track?

I've had them on 2 cars now and they did not make any noticeable difference

[Flagrum_3]

Do people find that SS lines make a noticeable difference or is it one of those things that's only obvious on the track?

No improvement 'may' be noticed, and even on the track in most cases. Some people have said they noticed slightly less fading during track use, but thats about it. The point though is that it will make your braking system that much more reliable and stable when needed.

_3

[Zuluwun]

Yeah, I understand the concept of what they do and why that's good, I'm just trying to guess at cost/benefit. Anyway, nuff threadjacking from me

:bot

[Cab0oze]

I've had them on 2 cars now and they did not make any noticeable difference
+1

[Flagrum_3]

Yeah, I understand the concept of what they do and why that's good, I'm just trying to guess at cost/benefit. Anyway, nuff threadjacking from me

It's not thread jacking, as the OP asked about brake lines and whether it was worth it. Whom hasn't bothered to amswer the question wheter he was speaking about lines or flex hoses.
:bot

It's not thread jacking, as the OP asked about brake lines and whether it was worth it. Who also hasn't bothered to answer the question whether he was speaking about brake lines or the brake flex hoses.

There is a benefit to changing out the brake flex hoses to SS even if you don't track the vehicle, as it will as I mentioned, add that much more 'integrity' to the brake system as a whole. Whether it is cost effective is up to the person. If or when my flex hoses have deteriorated to the point they need replacing, I will definitely make the move to SS flex hoses.

_3

[Zuluwun]

Fair point. It seemed like a bit of an aside to me. The main question being what setup would provide reliability, value and OE performance etc..

When the hoses NEED replacing, then of course, why not go SS for a few bucks more? I meant upgrading them before that for some performance benefit.

Not to make excuses for him or anything but I know cSPEED can get busy (don't we all?). Besides, the question was only posed yesterday lol.

[leungalv]

I got J&R auto to install the brakes with cross drileed rotors and pads for $300 total. I still have the rotors, but had to change the pads, I now have Akebono pads.

If you go the route of J&R I have said in the past to buy the set from them and have Jimmy install it. They're decent brakes, I drive a between Windsor and Toronto almost weekly and put probably more than 60,000km on them before I changed the pads.

[cSPEED]

It's not thread jacking, as the OP asked about brake lines and whether it was worth it. Who also hasn't bothered to answer the question whether he was speaking about brake lines or the brake flex hoses.

There is a benefit to changing out the brake flex hoses to SS even if you don't track the vehicle, as it will as I mentioned, add that much more 'integrity' to the brake system as a whole. Whether it is cost effective is up to the person. If or when my flex hoses have deteriorated to the point they need replacing, I will definitely make the move to SS flex hoses.

_3

So unnecessary. You gave me less than 24 hours to respond haha.

Also, the question I asked was "should I change my lines"
And the question you asked was "are you talking about lines or hoses?"

I feel that doesn't require my input.

I think I'm going to go with OEM rotors (they're really well priced from Mazda) + hawk brake pads. I love the oem setup, best brakes I've ever experienced but I guess I've never driven a car with a top of the line aftermarket brake setup.

Had I not been having transmission problems right now I would have definitely gone DBA + OEM pads but it's not in the budget currently.

[Flagrum_3]

So unnecessary. You gave me less than 24 hours to respond haha.

Also, the question I asked was "should I change my lines"
And the question you asked was "are you talking about lines or hoses?"

I feel that doesn't require my input.

I think I'm going to go with OEM rotors (they're really well priced from Mazda) + hawk brake pads. I love the oem setup, best brakes I've ever experienced but I guess I've never driven a car with a top of the line aftermarket brake setup.

Had I not been having transmission problems right now I would have definitely gone DBA + OEM pads but it's not in the budget currently.

Well I wasn't trying toput any pressure on, just making a statement and also because alot of people mis-identify things. Many will use the word 'lines' when they mean 'hoses' instead. So it was just for confirmation. Anyways why would you contemplate having to change brake lines? They rarely need changing, atleast not until the car is well into it's second decade.

Good luck with your new set-up.

_3

[Polish_Eagle]

I personally just stuck with OEM rotors and OEM pads since they lasted me pretty long (even with track use) and no issues with warped rotors. Also, I have a decent discount on mazda parts from my local dealer, so it just makes it sweet in the end.

[CelestSpeed3]

I personally just stuck with OEM rotors and OEM pads since they lasted me pretty long (even with track use) and no issues with warped rotors. Also, I have a decent discount on mazda parts from my local dealer, so it just makes it sweet in the end.

That's because you drive with the cruise control on the track. . . . Set to 40kph. . . .

[zmz3]

I'm thinking of going oem rotors and some sort of minimum decent pads. The hawk seem reasonably priced so I may just try those. Should I get new lines while I'm at it?

I know this forum is a little biased towards OEM rotors and HPS Hawks pads and I made the decision to go with it and all I can say is it's not all that great or quality its made to be. The initial bite isn't there which might make a big difference depending on the situation.

Having said that, I am still going with over 60k km and no major warp issues, just minor steering shaking but its pretty good overall. It also took a while for it to work well, even after Jimmy did the "break in".

Next time, OEM pads/rotors for me.

Good luck and never try to save on such things by going aftermarket, unless you know very darn well the quality of the parts and/or have some members' testimonials.

[Cab0oze]

Good luck and never try to save on such things by going aftermarket, unless you know very darn well the quality of the parts and/or have some members' testimonials.Agreed, but even with that everyone has their own preferences, like you pointed out yourself ("it's not all that great or quality its made to be"). I found the exact same thing... for highway driving, the initial bite isn't there and its a bit scary on the highway in the winter months.

[Polish_Eagle]

That's because you drive with the cruise control on the track. . . . Set to 40kph. . . .

Lol, don't hate, it looks like 40 because the gauge does a full spin around once and then to 40 (breaks the needle stopping pin)...... :D

It's a rocket ship.. Lol

[S.F.W.]

I know this forum is a little biased towards OEM rotors and HPS Hawks pads and I made the decision to go with it and all I can say is it's not all that great or quality its made to be. The initial bite isn't there which might make a big difference depending on the situation.

Having said that, I am still going with over 60k km and no major warp issues, just minor steering shaking but its pretty good overall. It also took a while for it to work well, even after Jimmy did the "break in".

Next time, OEM pads/rotors for me.

Good luck and never try to save on such things by going aftermarket, unless you know very darn well the quality of the parts and/or have some members' testimonials.


Agreed, but even with that everyone has their own preferences, like you pointed out yourself ("it's not all that great or quality its made to be"). I found the exact same thing... for highway driving, the initial bite isn't there and its a bit scary on the highway in the winter months.

Having run Hawk HPS pads on my previous 3 Sedan, I can agree the initial bite, is not as good as OEM. However, the Hawk pads do not fade as much as OEM, and throw much less brake dust. When you are in stop and go driving, or something similar, after a bit the OEM pads will fade, and not stop as quickly. The Hawk pads remain consistent in stopping power/distance.
I found after a few weeks with the Hawk pads, I adjusted my driving to match the pads, and was happy with performance.

[Kinn]

Have to agree with S.F.W here. OEM pads had exceptional initial bite (for an oem pad) but also fairly abrupt fade. I found it a little disconcerting so I switched over the the HAWK HPS pads which have less initial bit but very little fade (a change to higher quality brake fluid also helped.) It's time to shop rotors now and I'll just swap in OEM's with the Hawk pads again.

[fywdyl]

Will the initial bite improve as the pads heat up? (referring to HPS)

[zmz3]

Having run Hawk HPS pads on my previous 3 Sedan, I can agree the initial bite, is not as good as OEM. However, the Hawk pads do not fade as much as OEM, and throw much less brake dust. When you are in stop and go driving, or something similar, after a bit the OEM pads will fade, and not stop as quickly. The Hawk pads remain consistent in stopping power/distance.
I found after a few weeks with the Hawk pads, I adjusted my driving to match the pads, and was happy with performance.

Interesting. I notice that with most OEM pads over time, but I still feel that the initial bite remains noticeably better than HAWK HPS especially when its winter and snowing and you have been driving for over an hour without braking then need to make a quick one maybe...

I definitely notice that it doesn't release much brake dust.

[zmz3]

Will the initial bite improve as the pads heat up? (referring to HPS)

If you are braking more often than not, then it is pretty good (ie city stop and go) but when you are on the highway or a country road and need to make a quick stop, that initial 2 seconds bite isnt there and depending on the situation it could make a difference.

Could be that the material is less rubbery than the OEM? explains the lower initial bite and less brake dust? Not exactly sure.

[McGuyver_3]

If you are braking more often than not, then it is pretty good (ie city stop and go) but when you are on the highway or a country road and need to make a quick stop, that initial 2 seconds bite isnt there and depending on the situation it could make a difference.

Could be that the material is less rubbery than the OEM? explains the lower initial bite and less brake dust? Not exactly sure.7

There is no rubber in the pads, If there was if would melt on the first time the rotors would get warm. It's simply a harder metal compound that they use. If you ever look at Porsche, Mercedes, or BMW or anything high end, the amount of brake dust is high because the brake pads are soft but it results in vey good stopping power. But you also have to change the pads and rotors more often as they burn through brakes. Aftermarket brakes on anything high end just does not come close to OEM. Moral of the story stick with OEM or invest in a good upgrade

[zmz3]

7

There is no rubber in the pads, If there was if would melt on the first time the rotors would get warm. It's simply a harder metal compound that they use. If you ever look at Porsche, Mercedes, or BMW or anything high end, the amount of brake dust is high because the brake pads are soft but it results in vey good stopping power. But you also have to change the pads and rotors more often as they burn through brakes. Aftermarket brakes on anything high end just does not come close to OEM. Moral of the story stick with OEM or invest in a good upgrade

Yep. I didn't mean rubber but I didn't know how to explain the softer compound.

What's your experience with the OEM pads and fading?

[McGuyver_3]

Yep. I didn't mean rubber but I didn't know how to explain the softer compound.

What's your experience with the OEM pads and fading?

OEM brakes do well for me and always have. I find that everytime I go after market brakes there awlays seems to be some sort of a problem. Mind you I did not go with something good name brand. I simply asked for the best one available. They always come in a white box with no label on them and at 40$/rotor being considered the best... you get what you pay for. If I was to go aftermarket again I would choose brembo blanks or stoptechs

[carbon3]

I replaced my front pads with Akebono Euro 915's, read alot of great reviews on them before my purchase. What I like most about them is the very little to almost no brake dust, plus they are completely silent. For 90$ tax inn, very happy with them.

[6strings]

What are everyone's views on EBC rotors?

[standsideways]

EBC is a very reputable brake company, i would have no hesitation using rotors from them.

I have no experience with them however.

[6strings]

Yeah. I guess there would be no sense in going with the drilled rotors.
I might as well do what most are doing, play it save and run OEM, and Hawk Pads.

[leungalv]

I replaced my front pads with Akebono Euro 915's, read alot of great reviews on them before my purchase. What I like most about them is the very little to almost no brake dust, plus they are completely silent. For 90$ tax inn, very happy with them.

+1 to Akebono ... but for some reason I'm getting a clunking noise when I apply the brakes ... dunno if the pad is lose maybe?

[Jackal]

+1 to Akebono ... but for some reason I'm getting a clunking noise when I apply the brakes ... dunno if the pad is lose maybe?

Yup. Pad is probably loose. Pad on my other ride was loose and had Jimmy tighten it up but it came back just not as bad. But after a month the sound disappeared and it's been fine.

[Rob23]

I have HPS pads with Magnum rotors and I find it has really good bite. I have had to use them in emergency once or twice and Im always surprised how much bite they have.

[SKYMP3]

I hear Magnum is nightmare, even warned by Jimmy not to touch them.
I'm getting DBA 4000 Street series to replace my OEM.

[Rob23]

I hear Magnum is nightmare, even warned by Jimmy not to touch them.
I'm getting DBA 4000 Street series to replace my OEM.

I have had absolutely no problems what so ever, almost 3 years now. What did you hear was the problem with them?
I have heard that the DBA are a good rotor as well.

[Cab0oze]

I had my cheapo xdrilled magnums for 3 yrs before selling the car, never had an issue with them.