When to service brakes?

[Erica]

I know this is probably a rather basic question, but how do I know when the brakes need servicing?

I have a used 2007. I purchased it just over 2 years ago and it had 14,000 km on it. Now it has 57,000 km. Most of the driving in the last 2 years has been short-distance driving. Very low traffic in the area makes for a little less stop-and-start. It does get driven on the highway for 2 hours or so once a twice a month.

I am not sure what might need done to the brakes to maintain them nor about how much it would cost.

Also, I am not that close to a Mazda dealer. Is there any benefit to going to a Mada dealer for this work?

[Cab0oze]

No, zero benefit of going to mazda, unless you see paying extra money a benefit. Brakes are all the same, all mechanics worth half a damn should be able to change them (if required) just fine.

There is no general rule for when your brakes need to be replaced, depends entirely on how you drive. The only way to check to see if they need to be changed is to remove the caliper (an easy 5 minute job with the right tools) and measure how much pad is left. You can kindof inspect them yourself with a small mirror and by looking really close.
You should also check both sides of the rotors for unusual wear. For example, the front side of my gfs rotors (diff car, diff brakes) looked fine at 60k, but the other side of the rotor was completely destroyed for some reason.

That said, I seriously doubt your brakes need to be changed. If you're just doing low speed driving with a couple starts n stops, I bet you could make it past 100k.
I changed my brakes on my speed at 95k for the first time since I was going to start going to the track, and they still had a good 30% life left.

For the average person, I'd say dont worry about it until:
1) You start hearing strange noises from your brakes
2) Your brakes seem to be less effective than usual
3) You start to notice your steering wheel shaking when you brake.
4) One of your wheels starts becoming very dirty with brake dust - indication of a seized caliper which will ruin your brakes and is very dangerous.

When any of the above happen, get your brakes replaced ASAP.

-edit-
Sorry keep thinking of other stuff. A lot of people take their cars in for periodic checkups. At this point the garage will tell you how much brake pad you have left. They will almost always recommend that you replace them. I've heard things like "Ma'am, your brakes are at 40%, it is probably a good idea to change them very soon..... Oh yes, we can do it..... Perfect, we'll change the pads". 40% of pad left can equate to 10 years depending on how you drive, garages just try to scam everyone that doesn't know any better.

[JonsMazda]

I just check the brake pads, if it has 5mm left, I'll change it at a shop.

[Erica]

Thank you that was very helpful. It might avoid an expense that I really did not need at the moment. I will look into checking the brakes with a mirror or calipers. I will never be a do-it-yourself mechanic, but I do like the idea of being able to check on some of the maintenance issues myself. That will save money as well as help me keep the car in good shape.




No, zero benefit of going to mazda, unless you see paying extra money a benefit. Brakes are all the same, all mechanics worth half a damn should be able to change them (if required) just fine.
.

[Erica]

I just check the brake pads, if it has 5mm left, I'll change it at a shop.

Thanks. I am going to learn how to do my own checks.

[Erica]

gramatically that came out funny. I meant checking the brakes - looking at the calipers and using the mirror.

[JonsMazda]

Buy your parts either sponsors on here or a shop, roughly cost 250+ for either front or rear. Plus at least 60 bucks for the installation at a shop. Don't go for the cheap stuff, ain't worth it putting your life and others at risk.

[Nooby31]

^ya I made that mistake by going with Monroe and 3 months later I am squealing like a mofo lol.

[SonicBoy]

It is suggested that at least annually or every 20,000 KM you have the calipers cleaned and greased as routine maintenance to prevent them seizing up from all the salt.

Given that you do short distance driving, It might be warranted to have this maintenance done to prevent bigger headaches down the road. At that time, the mechanic normally inspects the pads for wear and anti seize is put on during re-assembly.

[r4mi5awi]

Mazda maintenance schedule states it as part of the 24k/12 month service. Had my brakes serviced today, all 200+ bank 'braking' dollars worth. :loki2

[r4BBiT]

It is suggested that at least annually or every 20,000 KM you have the calipers cleaned and greased as routine maintenance to prevent them seizing up from all the salt.

Given that you do short distance driving, It might be warranted to have this maintenance done to prevent bigger headaches down the road. At that time, the mechanic normally inspects the pads for wear and anti seize is put on during re-assembly.


Mazda maintenance schedule states it as part of the 24k/12 month service. Had my brakes serviced today, all 200+ bank 'braking' dollars worth. :loki2

+1

To OP, you should follow these recommendations for brake servicing, which is not the same as replacing pads/rotors that others are talking about. I would also suggest changing brake fluid every few years at least; I don't know why Mazda does not have that in their schedule, but MB for example recommends that done every two years.

Personally, I rather do this cheaper maintenance then replace my brake lines or calipers in the future.

[Cab0oze]

I just check the brake pads, if it has 5mm left, I'll change it at a shop.
Even 5mm isn't bad. You're good down to like 2-3 mm.
I think new pads have about 15mm.

[r4mi5awi]

Speaking of brake pads, my car's got 23,500k and is less than a year old. Was told today that pads have 6mm left, which was fine. Driving habits aside, does that sound normal?

[Cab0oze]

Speaking of brake pads, my car's got 23,500k and is less than a year old. Was told today that pads have 6mm left, which was fine. Driving habits aside, does that sound normal?You can't really say 'driving habits aside' lol... 23k is a lot if you're zoom zooming in town where you have to stop every 30 seconds.
Also, like I said, 6mm isnt that bad, there is still plenty of life left if you tone down your driving a bit :P

[schmat66]

on the brakes im on now i have 125,000 on the front rotors, 90,000 on the rear pads and rotors and front pads... should prolly do them since my rotors are super warped and wearing down but still got like 20% left

[kankerface]

I have around the same kms and I changed my front rotors and pads and trust me they were a pain in the ass to remove lol mine were rust glued on haha it took me a while to finally bang the rotor loose from the hub.
on the brakes im on now i have 125,000 on the front rotors, 90,000 on the rear pads and rotors and front pads... should prolly do them since my rotors are super warped and wearing down but still got like 20% left

[stock3]

Buy your parts either sponsors on here or a shop, roughly cost 250+ for either front or rear. Plus at least 60 bucks for the installation at a shop. Don't go for the cheap stuff, ain't worth it putting your life and others at risk.

What do you mean by "cheap stuff". If you're talking about some cheap, no name pads from some unknown ebay seller, then I would agree, but if you're talking about aftermarket, cheaper, but still made to OEM specs pads than I would like to see some proof, especially for "putting your life and others at risk" comment.

In general, I would say that, and upon reading this some people's heads may explode :chuckle, all the racing pads that are pushed on here so heavily by sponsors and clueless members, like Hawk or EBC are actually the dangerous ones when used in a street driven vehicle. And I'm not talking about the OEM lines that these manufacturers also provide.

I would stick with any aftermarket brand that uses OEM formula and avoid anything marketed as racing.

[Cab0oze]

What do you mean by "cheap stuff". If you're talking about some cheap, no name pads from some unknown ebay seller, then I would agree, but if you're talking about aftermarket, cheaper, but still made to OEM specs pads than I would like to see some proof, especially for "putting your life and others at risk" comment.

In general, I would say that, and upon reading this some people's heads may explode :chuckle, all the racing pads that are pushed on here so heavily by sponsors and clueless members, like Hawk or EBC are actually the dangerous ones when used in a street driven vehicle. And I'm not talking about the OEM lines that these manufacturers also provide.

I would stick with any aftermarket brand that uses OEM formula and avoid anything marketed as racing.I've seen a lot of pads claim to be "OEM" or "OE Spec" or "Exceed OE standards" or whatever. I'd honestly be surprised if there was any regulation of what they are allowed to type in their ad descriptions. Even if there was, there are so many loopholes that they probably wouldn't get in trouble:
"We make our own brake pads so we are an OEM"
"OE Spec? Yeah, it is the same shape and size"
"Exceeds OE standards? Yeah! See, this obscure dyno chart shows these pads give you +10HP"

Moral of the story - I think OEM is an abused term that gets thrown around forums constantly and people don't take a minute to really think about what it means. I recently even saw a brand called OEM lol

I would also never put something on my car again (did it once) that is not from a reputable company that backs their products and cares about their image. Hawk, EBC, care about their image. They don't just make 'racing pads', although I agree people that actually use pads meant for racing and drive with that on the street are stupid.

[brucewayne]

what is bad about these racing pads? i believe i have hawk pads

[Cab0oze]

what is bad about these racing pads? i believe i have hawk pads
Hawks HPS are supposed to be street pads. HP+ not so much. They're meant to maintain their effectiveness at high temperatures and thus as a result won't perform well when they're cold. Some people (myself included) had problems with HPS in the cold as well...

[stock3]

I've seen a lot of pads claim to be "OEM" or "OE Spec" or "Exceed OE standards" or whatever. I'd honestly be surprised if there was any regulation of what they are allowed to type in their ad descriptions. Even if there was, there are so many loopholes that they probably wouldn't get in trouble:
"We make our own brake pads so we are an OEM"
"OE Spec? Yeah, it is the same shape and size"
"Exceeds OE standards? Yeah! See, this obscure dyno chart shows these pads give you +10HP"

Moral of the story - I think OEM is an abused term that gets thrown around forums constantly and people don't take a minute to really think about what it means. I recently even saw a brand called OEM lol

I would also never put something on my car again (did it once) that is not from a reputable company that backs their products and cares about their image. Hawk, EBC, care about their image. They don't just make 'racing pads', although I agree people that actually use pads meant for racing and drive with that on the street are stupid.

I was talking about reputable aftermarket manufacturers like Monroe, Raybestos, Bendix, ATE, etc. Even the cheapest line of pads from these manufacturers will not put anybody's life at risk, as the other poster claimed.

[Cab0oze]

I was talking about reputable aftermarket manufacturers like Monroe, Raybestos, Bendix, ATE, etc. Even the cheapest line of pads from these manufacturers will not put anybody's life at risk, as the other poster claimed.I suppose putting people's lives at risk is a relative term.
Lets say you buy cheapo pads from a reputable aftermarket manufactuer and they stop 85% as well as your OEM pads. That is still pretty good (i.e you can still stop just fine) but stopping in 85 feet vs 100 feet in a critical situation can make the difference between your car being fine, and your car being wrecked. Of course, stopping distance is also affected by tires, ABS, etc but with something that is as important as brakes you don't want to knowingly put a weaker link in the chain.

In another situation, maybe the cheapo pads DO work fine, however do to the low level of quality control maybe they will fall apart, ruin new rotors, be noisy or not last long at all.

1) You can't generalize and say anything made by a known brake component manufacturer is good. IMO people should never make recommendations unless they have first hand experience. (this would also help stop internet propagated myths)

2) Its not worth saving 10-40 bucks by buying the cheapest pads you can find that haven't been reviewed by someone reliable unless you value your car/life at less than 30 bucks.

[stock3]

Cab0oze, you're preaching to the choir. I am a firm believer in getting the higher end of the pad spectrum, not necessarily the super expensive stuff, but usually the premium line of any reputable aftermarket manufacturer.

But as you mentioned already, the aftermarket is very poorly regulated, so your comment about stopping distance equally applies to cheap, as well as expensive stuff. There is no question in my mind that the stopping distance varies from one formula to another, but since there are no true standardized tests, the only way to guarantee the OEM type performance is to buy OEM, that's it.

In the past I used some really cheap pads and some were really noisy or dusty or wore out very quickly, but I have never had a pad that would feel dangerous when stopping. All these chicken little comments about safety are just that, chicken little, or posters have an agenda to push members towards sponsors.

Also, the internet darling Hawk and EBC pads are known to have pad delamination problems. Now that's a safety issue!

[SomeGuy]

Cab0oze, you're preaching to the choir. I am a firm believer in getting the higher end of the pad spectrum, not necessarily the super expensive stuff, but usually the premium line of any reputable aftermarket manufacturer.

But as you mentioned already, the aftermarket is very poorly regulated, so your comment about stopping distance equally applies to cheap, as well as expensive stuff. There is no question in my mind that the stopping distance varies from one formula to another, but since there are no true standardized tests, the only way to guarantee the OEM type performance is to buy OEM, that's it.

In the past I used some really cheap pads and some were really noisy or dusty or wore out very quickly, but I have never had a pad that would feel dangerous when stopping. All these chicken little comments about safety are just that, chicken little, or posters have an agenda to push members towards sponsors.

Also, the internet darling Hawk and EBC pads are known to have pad delamination problems. Now that's a safety issue!

Shush you.

Cab0oze knows what he is talking about.

[geobur]

Sorry to bring this thread back from the grave but I was just at Jimmy's to get my brakes looked at, and I am going to need all new pads and rotors. I can go with the OEM parts, but I was kinda hoping to upgrade for a bit better performance braking. I was leaning towards Hawk pads but Jimmy mentioned he doesn't like them. What do most people on the forum use? If not Hawk what about Stoptech?

Also Jimmy recommended just going with the OEM rotor. But I was reading about slotted or drilled rotors that help increase braking (by removing brake-dust buildup) and increasing the life of the pads...what would people on here recommend?

[SomeGuy]

Sorry to bring this thread back from the grave but I was just at Jimmy's to get my brakes looked at, and I am going to need all new pads and rotors. I can go with the OEM parts, but I was kinda hoping to upgrade for a bit better performance braking. I was leaning towards Hawk pads but Jimmy mentioned he doesn't like them. What do most people on the forum use? If not Hawk what about Stoptech?

Also Jimmy recommended just going with the OEM rotor. But I was reading about slotted or drilled rotors that help increase braking (by removing brake-dust buildup) and increasing the life of the pads...what would people on here recommend?

Jimmy is 100% right. OEM rotors are the best. The OEM pads are great too, they have plenty of bite and stopping power. If you can get your ABS to trigger on dry pave, there is no "upgrade" to be had as you already have as much stopping power as grip allows. The only time to "upgrade" is if you're consistently braking from 100km/h+ and the brake system can't cope with the heat but that will only happen in track situations or ass hat driving.

[geobur]

Jimmy is 100% right. OEM rotors are the best. The OEM pads are great too, they have plenty of bite and stopping power. If you can get your ABS to trigger on dry pave, there is no "upgrade" to be had as you already have as much stopping power as grip allows. The only time to "upgrade" is if you're consistently braking from 100km/h+ and the brake system can't cope with the heat but that will only happen in track situations or ass hat driving.

say I planned on tracking it at some point, after other modifications I am planning, would it be worth it now to get an "upgrade"

[SomeGuy]

say I planned on tracking it at some point, after other modifications I am planning, would it be worth it now to get an "upgrade"

Stick with the OEM rotors...as for pads, I'm happy with my corksport ones especially compared to the hawk hps I had on my old car. That said, pads are cheap (relatively speaking) so you could swap if you do ever get to tracking as a good track pad has compromises for street driving (noisy, no bite, etc).

There are a lot of guys on here that would know which pads work well on the track.

[Cab0oze]

OEM > All for the average DD.