Help Wanted : Hi-Boost Kit Install

[RetroLite]

Hey guys just wondering if anyone is up for helping me install a hiboost turbo kit on my 2.0L. let me knkw

[Hyperion]

I sure am

[greyseason]

I would be too, id make the trip

[SomeGuy]

Where are you located?

[RetroLite]

Richmond Hill

[RTEnthusiast]

Josh (@Hyperion) is in your area and knows what he's talking about.

[Noisy Crow]

I'd be in. :)

[DLYDRVN]

I'd be down to help out too.

[Hyperion]

He's got lots of fun ahead of him.
Sorry I couldn't stay longer. Good luck with the wiring!

[RetroLite]

Any one know how to program the haltech unit? Should I even use that unit? I've noticed a few people blew their motors running just 8 psi? Anyone know why?

[Kiyomi]

Any one know how to program the haltech unit? Should I even use that unit? I've noticed a few people blew their motors running just 8 psi? Anyone know why?

needs to be tuned for your car. who knows what off the shelf tune is on that haltech unit right now.

[RetroLite]

Can I install it and drive to the tuning place?

[Kiyomi]

Can I install it and drive to the tuning place?

ummm, i wouldnt.

but its possible. especially dont get into higher rpms if u do.

[Orangevirus]

Can I install it and drive to the tuning place?

just keep it out of boost. you have a boost gauge right?

also it's going be running crappy with the larger injectors

[RetroLite]

The turbo from the kit had some left over flakes of what I think was torn up valve or piston. if I clean the turbo would it be fine as it has no free play and spins easily? I can get it spinning with compressed air

[Noisy Crow]

The turbo from the kit had some left over flakes of what I think was torn up valve or piston. if I clean the turbo would it be fine as it has no free play and spins easily? I can get it spinning with compressed air

As long as the bearings haven't been compromised and there is no damage to impeller or turbine then you should be fine. Dings or chips in the impeller or turbine will affect the balance of the assembly, which would result in excessive vibration leading to early bearing failure. That's assuming the chips don't lead to stress cracks that lead to boom.

If you drive the car before getting it tuned.... I suggest you disconnect the wastegate actuator. That will ensure that you can't accidentally go into boost.

[midnightfxgt]

The Haltech should be pre-loaded with a tune from HiBoost for the Mazda3.

No offense, but you may want to do some research on turbos and this kit in particular before installing. Buying a used kit, without knowing what to look for or how to install it is asking for trouble. That being said, the wiring on the Haltech is pretty simple. I used to have the instructions from HiBoost but am not sure if I still have.

[RetroLite]

Hey I'm wondering if anyone can help me out, why do so many people blow their engines with the hiboost kits? What would cause a boost in spike. And anyone have a picture of the boost solenoid that's from the hiboost Kit? I see no mention of it in the instructions and can't seem to find it in my kit or a picture of it.

[midnightfxgt]

Lots of guys don't blow their motors. I blew mine.....

i hooked up up the boost solenoid wrong due to instructions from the previous owner. He meant well, but provided, left and right details.... What he didn't mention was that he mounted it upside down. Lol. I have over 50,000km boosted on mine.

I can get a pic of the solenoid, and tell you what port goes where tomorrow

[RetroLite]

Alright thank you very much, would you be available to help me with the wiring? That's the final stage I am on

[midnightfxgt]

Alright thank you very much, would you be available to help me with the wiring? That's the final stage I am on

What part are you stuck on, or wiring? Tach driver, f10x etc

[RetroLite]

I have all the mechanical parts in I need to install tach driver f10x and wiring for the listed

[midnightfxgt]

Found install and wiring diagrams from 2007 that HiBoost used to provide. Email addy?

[Noisy Crow]

Something else to think about before you add a turbo: at some point you will need to pass emissions testing. I know there have been changes -- using on-board emissions sensors rather than a tailpipe test, but that probably increases the visual inspection requirement. Regardless of any philosophical arguments (e.g. if it is within the standard who cares about mods, Mazda makes a turbo version, so why can others etc.) modification of emissions-related components puts your car into the "for off road use only" part of the fine print everyone ignores.

[Orangevirus]

The turbo from the kit had some left over flakes of what I think was torn up valve or piston. if I clean the turbo would it be fine as it has no free play and spins easily? I can get it spinning with compressed air

Where did you see these flakes? on the compressor side or the hot side? There is no way any ENGINE material would make it's way to the compressor (cold side) if that is where it is located, then the pieces had to have either been sucked in the intake, or come from the compressor wheel. How bad is the shaft play back and forth / in and out? There should be a *little* side to side, but Minimal to zero in and out.

Take the compressor cover off and take a good look at that compressor wheel. If the flakes and pieces are bearing material, then I would rebuild the turbo before I run it, as it may have bearing material in the CHRA, and will cause it to fail, quite quickly.

[midnightfxgt]

Something else to think about before you add a turbo: at some point you will need to pass emissions testing. I know there have been changes -- using on-board emissions sensors rather than a tailpipe test, but that probably increases the visual inspection requirement. Regardless of any philosophical arguments (e.g. if it is within the standard who cares about mods, Mazda makes a turbo version, so why can others etc.) modification of emissions-related components puts your car into the "for off road use only" part of the fine print everyone ignores.

Great Points, and I'll share my experiences openly so that it may help others.....

In Days Past - The tailpipe sniffer test was easy. All you needed was a tech who was willing to toss another vehicle on the rollers, and pretend it was yours. Of course this came with a price :)

Today's Test - Every Mazda3 is OBDII, so it is run off the computer. If you follow the wiring diagram, you will see that you cut the wire that will cause the missing 02 sensor to throw a CEL. So you will be left with a functioning car, and no CELs. Perfect start for the etest. The issue comes with the Readiness Sensors. I had 2 sensors "Not Ready". This means I had to leave and drive around for a day, and test the next day. Since the sensors were still "Not Ready", I get a 2yr conditional pass. What happens next time? I am not sure, but some have said that I can have another conditional, and some say after the first one, if it happens again, I will do a reg sniffer test. So I think I should be able to find away around the cash grab lol

Noisy Crow is right though - Boosting your Mazda3 makes etests a PITA.

[RetroLite]

Wow thank you for the input. This year is the first year I have to do my emissions in October but I am ready to go through the long haul if that's what it takes to get certified. I'm sure you can get a conditional every year. My gfs readiness monitor for evap wasn't ready this year and they gave her a pass. I've read on the forums just alone that monitor may take months to years to become ready. So she was told she would get a conditional next time as well

[midnightfxgt]

Don't forget to post or PM me your e-mail addy if you want the HiBoost install and wiring docs :)

[RetroLite]

dragosadragan@gmail.com

[RetroLite]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/17/uby2u9er.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/17/sy5e3a8a.jpg

Any idea what this is?

[midnightfxgt]

Bar sensor - instruction manual sent

[CxiV]

Wow thank you for the input. This year is the first year I have to do my emissions in October but I am ready to go through the long haul if that's what it takes to get certified. I'm sure you can get a conditional every year. My gfs readiness monitor for evap wasn't ready this year and they gave her a pass. I've read on the forums just alone that monitor may take months to years to become ready. So she was told she would get a conditional next time as well

Hmm I don't remember it being a conditional pass?? it's a pass if only one monitor is not ready

[mikey32235]

i would, I'm in baview and bloomington. where are u? RetroLite

[RetroLite]

Richmond Hill my phone number is 4164147502

[RetroLite]

Bayview and 19th ave

[Orangevirus]

Why does the hiboost kit need a wastegate solenoid? should it not just be a straight tie from a boost source to wastegate? that's safer

[Orangevirus]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/17/uby2u9er.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/17/sy5e3a8a.jpg

Any idea what this is?




looks like a MAP sensor to me

[loki]

looks like a MAP sensor to me

Looks more like an electric signal relay for a boost guage

[midnightfxgt]

Why does the hiboost kit need a wastegate solenoid? should it not just be a straight tie from a boost source to wastegate? that's safer

Its an option. Some opted for the remote boost controller Haltech offered. OP's kit did not have it. His has an external waste gate with a 8PSI spring (likely), so not needed.

[Orangevirus]

Looks more like an electric signal relay for a boost guage

must be a cheapo gauge then

[Kiyomi]

Hmm I don't remember it being a conditional pass?? it's a pass if only one monitor is not ready

im pretty sure you can keep getting conditional passes as long as you prove you tried to fix the problem and spend X amount of money. or nowadays, im hearing you can give a shop that repairs for emissions 100$ and they will say you spent the necessary amount to try and fix the problem. the very reason why its just a cash grab.

[RetroLite]

It is a pro sport analog boost gauge

[RetroLite]

Hmm I don't remember it being a conditional pass?? it's a pass if only one monitor is not ready

I thought it was upto two babe

[RetroLite]

Hey guys anyone available to help me with the wiring today! I'm located in Richmond Hill, phone number is 416-414-7502.

[RetroLite]

Attention Fellow TM3ers can anyone help me today with what's remaining on the turbo install which is the wiring? Please text me if you can I would appreciate the help.

[RetroLite]

Hey guys I'm just wondering where to hook up the Vacuume tubes. I have a greddy bov with a nipple on it, tial wastegate with a nipple on it, turbo housing with a nipple on it and the map sensor with a nipple on it.

[Orangevirus]

Hey guys I'm just wondering where to hook up the Vacuume tubes. I have a greddy bov with a nipple on it, tial wastegate with a nipple on it, turbo housing with a nipple on it and the map sensor with a nipple on it.

Turbo housing to wastegate

Intake manifold vacuum line to BOV.

MAP sensor to Intake manifold vacuum line.

the bov and MAP sensor needs to see vaccum and boost ( positive and negative pressure ). the wastegate needs to see ONLY boost. DO NOT hook it up to the intake manifold where it sees negative pressure.

[RetroLite]

Question, the new higher cc injectors were already soldered onto an oem harness which fits my existing plugs, I notice that the haltech unit has 4 wires for injectors coming out of it, what do I need to do here? Connect the injectors to the haltech unit?

[midnightfxgt]

The harness for the 2006 comes with an 8 pin connector and a three pin connector on the other side for the injector harness. Just disconnect the stock injectors and leave them aside. Plug the new injectors to the harness provided. The ONLY wire that goes to the main harness of the car is the grey/red form Haltech into the A2 wire as illustrated in the diagram below. Do not use the other wires for any other connections.



Your flying wires are:
Purple/white: Boost controller (OPTIONAL)
White wire: TPS (Optional)
Gray/shielded: O2 sensor for closed loop (OPTIONAL)
Gray/red for A2 connector (Switched 12V)
Gray/red for boost controller (OPTIONAL)


COLES NOTES - Looks like you just disconnect the stock injectors. 2005 and earlier we had to cut them, and didnt have a harness.

[RetroLite]

The 3 pin harness that's mentioned does not have anything to plug into. The harness for the injectors provided was just the oem one cut and the next connectors added to it. I have 4 wires that are the same colours mentioned in the 04-05 instructions as being the injector wires. Just hanging lose in the bundle of wires so I'm guessing I have the old harness.

[RetroLite]

Also I don't see anywhere where it says that each specific coloured wire has to hook upto a specific injector. Am I right can I just place the haltech injector wire onto any wire that's an injector wire without having to figure out which injector is which?

[midnightfxgt]

What year was Boris' car? If it was pre-2006, you are going to need some help there, as they are different, which is why the instructions, and harness were different.

No, you can not simply splice into an injector wire. You need to follow the instructions here: "The ONLY wire that goes to the main harness of the car is the grey/red form Haltech into the A2 wire as illustrated in the diagram below. Do not use the other wires for any other connections."

EDIT: From Boris' ad, it looks like he didnt have the 2006 harness: "Stock injector wiring harness with correct injector harness for the 36# injectors"

ANOTHER EDIT: Looks like Boris had a 2004 car. So he included the OEM Harness, which basically just has the connectors soldered on for the injectors. You will need to figure out the wiring. Sorry but, I cant help much, as I dont know the differences in the 2006, but it is wired differently for the Haltech for sure. You will also need the MSD 8913 Tach Driver, and not the Ford Racing one that was likely included.

-John

[loki]

how many ppl have bought this kit?

didn't another member buy this kit from boris?

[Hyperion]

how many ppl have bought this kit?

didn't another member buy this kit from boris?

This kit is 2/2 on the engine blow up streak.

[loki]

This kit is 2/2 on the engine blow up streak.

that's what I thought


but this install here seems to be going quite well

[midnightfxgt]

This kit is 2/2 on the engine blow up streak.

Boris never popped a motor, and he had it installed a long time. He grenaded a couple transmissions though.

[Hyperion]

Boris never popped a motor, and he had it installed a long time. He grenaded a couple transmissions though.

Different story same ending.

[midnightfxgt]

Different story same ending.

True. This kit is perfect for someone with a 2004/2005, or someone who has time and knowledge with a 2006+. I wish I knew more about the injector differences to offer more help.

[RetroLite]

This kit was installed onto a 2006 as the msd module was included from the previous user. I have found the connections at the ecu to be the same as the ones going into the injector harness. Same colours from ecu pinout to the injector harness. Started cutting the wires and soldering them onto the haltech harness

[midnightfxgt]

You are wiring against the manual, so I am of no help now. Good luck!

[breakfasteatre]

ABORT ABORT

[Orangevirus]

If this kit is known to pop engines.... BAD TUNE.

[midnightfxgt]

If this kit is known to pop engines.... BAD TUNE.

Unless the tune was modified by the previous owner, it is perfectly fine, and actually TOO "safe" (ie its very rich).

Last I spoke to Boris, he didnt know how to connect to the Haltech with his laptop (it can be a pain to get the correct baud settings).

[Orangevirus]

Unless the tune was modified by the previous owner, it is perfectly fine, and actually TOO "safe" (ie its very rich).

Last I spoke to Boris, he didnt know how to connect to the Haltech with his laptop (it can be a pain to get the correct baud settings).


running too rich can cause rich detonation.

[midnightfxgt]

running too rich can cause rich detonation.

Yes I know. Like I said, out of the box, this tune is fine.

[Orangevirus]

Yes I know. Like I said, out of the box, this tune is fine.

ok, well hopefully the OP gets it all sorted out.

[RetroLite]

Anyone have the 2.0L map for the haltech?

[RetroLite]

Anyone know how to tap the brake booster line for a vacuum line for the 2.0L since it is different from the 2.3L? A how to or picks would be appreciated. Can I just drill into the manifold and bore it out and put a proper fitting?

[midnightfxgt]

I don't know what size the brake booster line is... maybe 3/8"??? Anyways, you need to find a "T" or "Y" fitting, and just tap it,.

[RetroLite]

I think I'm going to drill and tap into the manifold and add a 1/8 fitting. Where can I get a vacuum/boost distributor block locally?

[Kappa]

Hmmm well maybe you guys can help me put together my megasquirt? And build a custom harness? Lol
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/23/arurevu6.jpg

This kit shouldn't be causing so many problems. Injectors should be easy to pick out just take a look around the mazda speed forums to get an idea.

Auto trans on a family sedan with a motor that starts out with less than a 150 horsepower then boosting it? I can't see how that ever made sense to anyone but I know nothing lol

[greyseason]

Megasquirts are the Mutha****in boss

[Orangevirus]

oh god. I hate megasquirt. putting it together first time took me about 6 hours

[RetroLite]

Hey guys I got it running but I'm having a weird noise coming from the back of the motor (the noise is only noticeable from the back of the engine not from the front)

I have included a video of the noise at idle, I have NOT driven the car yet. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BU3wXGthGGI

[Orangevirus]

Hey guys I got it running but I'm having a weird noise coming from the back of the motor (the noise is only noticeable from the back of the engine not from the front)

I have included a video of the noise at idle, I have NOT driven the car yet. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BU3wXGthGGI


sounds like an exhaust leak to me

[RetroLite]

Hey guys I'm having a huge problem, hesitation while I rev and doesn't turn on right away.

This is the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RrOcKvrGLHQ

[Kiyomi]

seems rich at idle.

[RetroLite]

What about the delay in starting? Is that normal?

[Kiyomi]

its not normal for a stock car. but u put on an aftermarket turbo kit. could be the normal startup, especially since the engine was never designed for boost. looks like it def needs a tune to be safely driven. the haltech that comes with the kit is a piggyback?

[RetroLite]

Yes a piggyback

[RetroLite]

What about the hesitation on acceleration or revving? It seems I press the throttle and it almost stalls than it begins to accelerate or rev

[Kiyomi]

Yes a piggyback

would u be able to tune closed loop 0-4000rpmish? cause if u cant, ur gonna need to find a different tuning solution as your gonna run rich all the time, and eventually end up like the last owner.
the hesitation could be a result of tuning issues. its hard to see the hesitation as ur just showing the cluster.

also, does ur gauge read differently in lambda? then im not sure what its reading. is 14.7 afr equal to 1.0 of lambda?

[RetroLite]

If I were to go with a AEM Fic which unit would I go with?

[Kiyomi]

If I were to go with a AEM Fic which unit would I go with?

it would be the same result. you would need to go standalone, or get the mazdaedit reflash software.
if your running fine in the lower rpm/idle, then you wont have to. as im not familiar with reading lambda, cant tell how the car is running, and only one small vid. need some logging to see.

fak, after looking closer at the gauage. it reads lambda and afr. ur super rich... u might want to look into mazdaedit. no psi movement on the boost? connect everything, and see what she does.

[midnightfxgt]

The vid isn't showing much. You are running very rich, and using Iridium Plugs. A straight ole cheapy copper plug won't foul as easy. They don;t last as long either, but plug changes are easy.

[RetroLite]

So what would you guys recommend? Plugs? Or a standalone? Which unit? Who can do the ecu flash? Where should I take it?

[Kiyomi]

try the plugs first as midnightfxgt said as its fairly affordable to see if it helps, i doubt it will change the afr that much. then, the cheaper solution is to get the reflash software, mazdaedit. and either get it tuned by orangevirus, mspeed, or brian at aph.

can be bought on the epifan site, or Orangevirus 's site ovtuned.com
the software works. its just a matter of tuning it properly and understanding the values it gives.
http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?74940-Mazda-ECU-tunes-potential-single-Group-buy-thread-2-0-2-5&p=1169960#post1169960 <---start reading.
and youll have to buy the tactrix cable in order for you to hook up to your ecu. or if u want to borrow my cable, there is a wait list (up to 2 months atm).
http://www.tactrix.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=17&Itemid=53

if u want to go to a full standalone unit, it could become very time consuming and pricey.

[midnightfxgt]

Standalone is way more than you need.

The Haltech ran fine for Boris (his tranny couldn't hold together tho). Unless it was connected to and played with, tune should be fine. Def start with the plugs, and find out what that CEL is. That could be a huge arrow pointing at the issue!

[RetroLite]

Awesome thank you which plugs would you recommend? Does anyone have the map for the hiboost?

[Kiyomi]

^^ Boris ran a standalone? or a piggyback? big difference. i wouldnt go as far to say the tune is fine. it has a track record of blowing motors. so obviously there is an issue.
dont re-tune your car, expect some big problems down the road. from what i heard, it took less than 2 weeks for the previous owner to blow up his motor, and it was in jimmys shop for atleast 2 months.

[midnightfxgt]

^^ Boris ran a standalone? or a piggyback? big difference. i wouldnt go as far to say the tune is fine. it has a track record of blowing motors. so obviously there is an issue.
dont re-tune your car, expect some big problems down the road.

Boris ran this exact Haltech. It never blew his motor. Someone purchased the kit apparently, and blew their motor due to not running larger injectors.... This was the story I was told. Can't blame that on the tune either.

One step colder than stock plugs, autolite are cheap at Napa usually,

[Kiyomi]

Boris ran this exact Haltech. It never blew his motor. Someone purchased the kit apparently, and blew their motor due to not running larger injectors.... This was the story I was told. Can't blame that on the tune either.

One step colder than stock plugs, autolite are cheap at Napa usually,

so its a piggyback, and only starts to take control after 3500rpm. if he cant get his afr under control in closed loop, this haltech unit wont cut it. the story i heard was that it was backfiring like a mofo because the car was just dumping fuel in the car, and running lean when in boost due to the injectors. both a tuning issue.

edit: how long did boris have it on his car. before he blew his transmission?

[midnightfxgt]

so its a piggyback, and only starts to take control after 3500rpm. if he cant get his afr under control in closed loop, this haltech unit wont cut it. the story i heard was that it was backfiring like a mofo because the car was just dumping fuel in the car, and running lean when in boost due to the injectors. both a tuning issue.

No. It controls the fuel completely. Without knowing the issues, I don't think blaming the tune is right. Boris ran it for years with no issues. So unless it was modified by the person after him, the tune works.

[Kiyomi]

No. It controls the fuel completely. Without knowing the issues, I don't think blaming the tune is right. Boris ran it for years with no issues. So unless it was modified by the person after him, the tune works.

its a piggback. how can it control closed loop fuel and ignition???? it may try and overwrite the ecu, but it cant. this is the main issue with piggybacks. the ecu tires to maintain its stock parameters in closed loop. Boris may have got away with it for a few yrs, but i also doubt that his idle/dd afr was in the 10s. usually the stock ecu is good enough to have a decent afr value at idle/cruise. but this unit/kit has problems from the stories, and from what i just saw in that short clip.

[midnightfxgt]

its a piggback. how can it control closed loop fuel and ignition???? it may try and overwrite the ecu, but it cant. this is the main issue with piggybacks. the ecu tires to maintain its stock parameters in closed loop. Boris may have got away with it for a few yrs, but i also doubt that his idle/dd afr was in the 10s.

Haltech controls the fuel completely. I can also tell you that getting these cars to have a steady idle is tough. Boris's was not steady either, it was also rich (not sure if it was this rich consistently)

[Kiyomi]

Haltech controls the fuel completely. I can also tell you that getting these cars to have a steady idle is tough. Boris's was not steady either, it was also rich (not sure if it was this rich consistently)

i doubt it. it might have commands to give fuel, but i can almost guarantee you that the stock ecu is overriding its commands and giving its own which is usually good enough to dd/cruise. every piggbyack "has" that capability in the maps. but it doesnt in reality. keeping in mind, we are talking about closed loop. i have no doubt it can change open loop settings np.
a better tuning solution like the reflasher is ideal for changes in idle,fuel,ignition,closed loop, vvti, rpm-speed limits, knock control, codes, etc because it changes the parameters of the ecu itself.

[midnightfxgt]

i doubt it. it might have commands to give fuel, but i can almost guarantee you that the stock ecu is overriding its commands and giving its own which is usually good enough to dd/cruise. every piggbyack "has" that capability in the maps. but it doesnt in reality.
a better tuning solution like the reflasher is ideal for changes in idle,fuel,ignition,closed loop, vvti, rpm-speed limits, knock control, codes, etc because it changes the parameters of the ecu itself.

Ugh.... Ok. The Haltech does NOT control the fuel completely.

[RetroLite]

I'm going to try the different spark plugs tomorrow. When that's done I can take a video what should I include in this video?

[Kiyomi]

Ugh.... Ok. The Haltech does NOT control the fuel completely.

just trying to have an informed discussion. i doubt any of us want the op to blow up his motor. if the plugs dont work and his afr is constantly 10:1-11:1, he will need to get a diff tuning solution is all. the haltech unit wont cut it for whatever reason on his vehicle as his ecu is dumping too much fuel in to compensate.

try overwriting your own haltech to dump fuel or sip fuel it in closed loop. see if it continues to dump/sip fuel in after 30mins. ;)

[midnightfxgt]

just trying to have an informed discussion. i doubt any of us want the op to blow up his motor. if the plugs dont work and his afr is constantly 10:1-11:1, he will need to get a diff tuning solution is all. the haltech unit wont cut it for whatever reason on his vehicle as his ecu is dumping too much fuel in to compensate.

try overwriting your own haltech to dump fuel or sip fuel in in closed loop. see if it continues to dump/sip fuel in after 30mins. ;)

Go cut your injector wires from the main harness. The ECU can tell them whatever it wants, it doesn't matter.

The Haltech won't cut it? Sure it will. IF the tune is bad, why not retune rather than a whole new solution??

[Kiyomi]

Go cut your injector wires from the main harness. The ECU can tell them whatever it wants, it doesn't matter.

The Haltech won't cut it? Sure it will. IF the tune is bad, why not retune rather than a whole new solution??

so, you have it hooked up by having the injector wires completely cut, and spliced in with the haltech? the haltech is solely running the injectors? if thats the case, then it should be relatively easy to fix with a retune, as it really looks like its a screwed up tune.

the reflash software might be worth your while as it has more capabilities is all. if you dont need them, then you dont need them.

[RetroLite]

Yeah the haltech is the sole provider for the injector wires. End going into the ecu are cut and shrink tubed ends. Who could tune the haltech? It's such an old unit.

[midnightfxgt]

so, you have it hooked up by having the injector wires completely cut, and spliced in with the haltech? the haltech is solely running the injectors?


Correct. It's is completely controlling fuel.

[Kiyomi]

what model # is the haltech?

bring it to any good tuner with knowledge and know how of what they are doing.
ex. mspeed, Brian at Aph, onpointdyno.com (Sasha Annis).

[RetroLite]

Any recommendations around Markham area? Have to get it towed It is a f10x

[Kiyomi]

Any recommendations around Markham area? Have to get it towed It is a f10x

Brian just moved his shop over to Markham. he could probably get it done in a few hours.
416-781-8671

[RetroLite]

Awesome thank you so much I'm going to try the spark plugs first tomorrow and see how that goes, should I try the stock injectors back in and see how that works?

[Kiyomi]

Awesome thank you so much I'm going to try the spark plugs first tomorrow and see how that goes, should I try the stock injectors back in and see how that works?

no. the stock injectors will not be able to keep up while in boost and you will most likely run lean which is the more unsafe side to run on, especially boosted. it probably will help your afrs down low, but its not fixing the issue. retune should be done regardless with the aftermarket injectors.

[RetroLite]

Thank you for all your help and info tonight both Kiyomi and midnightfxgt

[Kiyomi]

np.

with that in mind, you might not have to get a tow depending on how the car runs with stock injectors and running no boost. then you could swap out the injectors at the shop.

[Orangevirus]

with a piggyback such as AEM FIC you can control fueling in/out of boost, open loop / closed loop by altering the sensor signal on one of the wires on the primary 02 sensor. It's a viable solution, but I don't recommend it. you can actually do this so that the ecu targets different AFR's that you set in the aem FIC ( but it takes lots of trial and error to find out exactly which volt corresponds to which AFR ). The AEM FIC can only retard ignition. no advance.

If you want to use the AEM FIC, I have a completely tuned 2.3L map on 8 psi for it with 440cc injectors WITH the 02 voltages that you can use as a very nice base map if your car is 2007+. and I have lots of experience using both AEM FIC 6 and FIC 8, if you need help.

Also running that rich not in boost, either you messsed the wiring up somewhere, or that tune is no go. The haltech is controlling fuel, but is it also controlling timing? Fueling is only ONE piece that you need to worry about with the tune being safe. Just because it hasn't blown an engine, doesn't mean it is safe. You won't even know if you're detonating.

The plugs won't really do anything for your AFR problem. Another thing, the stock VVT cam tables kinda suck for boost. Also even in the "open loop" these ecu's have, they will still attempt 14.7 targets if your load is not correct.


Do NOT use the stock injectors for boost. you *may* be able to get by on them with 3-4psi, but NOT 7-8. Load up some haltech software and see what it's doing.

[RetroLite]

I have a 2.0L

[midnightfxgt]

If you tow it somehwere, buy CAA now. You will get the tow (which will cost what CAA does, or more)... then you still have more free tows down the road if needed.

-John

[S.F.W.]

If you tow it somehwere, buy CAA now. You will get the tow (which will cost what CAA does, or more)... then you still have more free tows down the road if needed.

-John

The costco roadside assistance is also a good option.

[Orangevirus]

I have a 2.0L

it would work fine for a 2.0L, the just would just be slightly rich

[RetroLite]

What spacing should I gap my spark plugs to?

[Orangevirus]

What spacing should I gap my spark plugs to?

which plugs are you using?

[RetroLite]

ltr6ix-11

[midnightfxgt]

ltr6ix-11

As I said in the emails before, you don't need to gap iridiums. They are easy to break/scratch the tips, and come gapped.

[Flagrum_3]

As I said in the emails before, you don't need to gap iridiums. They are easy to break/scratch the tips, and come gapped.

+1

[Orangevirus]

Question: why are you worrying about gapping your plugs when the car isn't even running right.

[RetroLite]

It's Alive thanks to Brian at APH

[RetroLite]

Does anyone have the ecu pinout for 2007 2.0L?

[Noisy Crow]

Does anyone have the ecu pinout for 2007 2.0L?

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?118561-new-host-needed-for-wiring-diagrams&highlight=ecu

[RetroLite]

Thank you

[Kiyomi]

dyno results?

[loki]

dyno results?

I doubt the car went on the dyno, but instead they were focussed on getting it running.

There is, however, a TM3 dyno day coming up at the end of this month. Would be interesting to see this car on the dyno if it is up and running by then

http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?75757-TM3-Dyno-Day-at-APH-Sat-May-31&p=1188877&viewfull=1#post1188877

[RetroLite]

I have I dyno it's just not that impressive I need to acquire a new piggyback. Only 210 HP

[loki]

I have I dyno it's just not that impressive I need to acquire a new piggyback. Only 210 HP

what is your power goal that you hope to achieve?

[Kiyomi]

I have I dyno it's just not that impressive I need to acquire a new piggyback. Only 210 HP

... why do you need a new piggyback?

[RetroLite]

2000 rpm is messed up runs lean very lean and no power after 2200 rpm it runs fine. Couldn't find the TPS wire

[Kiyomi]

2000 rpm is messed up runs lean very lean and no power after 2200 rpm it runs fine. Couldn't find the TPS wire

then like i said previously, go for the reflash software.

[RetroLite]

Yes but how would they tune the car? Using a dyno?

[Kiyomi]

Yes but how would they tune the car? Using a dyno?

your best bet would be to dyno it with brian using the software, or datalog for Ov to tune via online.

[RetroLite]

I just need to get my hands on a cable

[midnightfxgt]

Wait... you have a functioning car, that is tunable. Instead of tuning, you would rather replace with a new piggyback? OK.

[midnightfxgt]

Couldn't find the TPS wire

Was it not A12, as per diagram?

[RetroLite]

No the haltech doesn't get a reading from a12, it's tuned on a dyno already but it only controls fuel, no ignition or crank angle sensor. Old unit.

[midnightfxgt]

Correct. The F10X is A Fuel Management. I still don;t know why you don't tune it. If you decide on a whole new solution, hopefully it works out better for you.

[Kiyomi]

it only does fuel management?...

[Noisy Crow]

Does the TriPoint FIC setup use TPS? If so, grad the TriPoint install instructions off of their website and check the ECU connections they are using for the TPC pin.

[midnightfxgt]

Does the TriPoint FIC setup use TPS? If so, grad the TriPoint install instructions off of their website and check the ECU connections they are using for the TPC pin.

Everyone else grabs it from what the HiBoost instructions call "A12" from what I have seen. Apparently that doesnt work on his car :S

[Orangevirus]

If that haltech ONLY does fueling, you're engine is on borrowed time. stock ignition tables are not boost friendly on the 2.0L. it may last, and may last for a while, but it will be knocking, and eventually you'll blow the rings / crack a ringland.

the FIC ties into : TPS (tap), cam sensor(intercept), crank sensor(intercept), fuel injectors (intercept), maf sensor (intercept) 02 sensor(tap)

[mikey32235]

So what's going on with this build

[Fack_Dude]

So what's going on with this build

Probably bent a rod. Haha

[Orangevirus]

Probably bent a rod. Haha

nah NA rods don't bend lol they just snap

[mikey32235]

Ahahahah^ but for real it would b nice to see what's going on

[RetroLite]

Update**** 113,000 Kms on the engine blowing out smoke like crazy pulled the spark plugs oil in cylinders 2,3,4 so engine is toast.

What are my options and estimated costs with those options. All help is appreciated

[loki]

3/3

[greyseason]

Get somebody to do it properly. No offense but it seems this was hacked together.

Maybe I'm wrong doe

[RetroLite]

None taken but it doesn't take a genius to install a turbo I did it proper had Brian check over it at APH when he tuned it and than I started getting it tuned with Joe at Dynotronics

[RetroLite]

I would just like to know my options and what kinda of price I would be looking at for a new engine or forged or speed3 swap

[loki]

Forged MS3 engine I'd say budget $10k

[Kiyomi]

None taken but it doesn't take a genius to install a turbo I did it proper had Brian check over it at APH when he tuned it and than I started getting it tuned with Joe at Dynotronics

there is your problem right there. u got it tuned by dynotronics. really sketchy.
u could get a used 2.3 for around 1000-1500.

[Fack_Dude]

Op. Buy a stock speed and call it the day. Then you can become a member of "I facked my motor club" and buy a new car. Haha.

[MajesticBlueNTO]

2.5 swap... There's a thread on here about it. Cheaper than a 2.3 apparently

[Orangevirus]

..........

nice.

[RetroLite]

2.5 swap... There's a thread on here about it. Cheaper than a 2.3 apparently

Can you find the thread? I bought a 2.5L thanks to Joes help from Dynotronics should be here tomorrow.

[RetroLite]

there is your problem right there. u got it tuned by dynotronics. really sketchy.
u could get a used 2.3 for around 1000-1500.

Dynotronics has been nothing but great on the phone and thru email. The engine going was my fault and I take full responsibility for it. I neglected to take the boost gauge into account when it spiked because it had been acting up that day turning on and off when it had worked for months properly before hand. I believe the fault was in the tial wastegate not opening up and letting out boost over the 6 psi the spring was for.

[MajesticBlueNTO]

Can you find the thread? I bought a 2.5L thanks to Joes help from Dynotronics should be here tomorrow.
http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=75902

[RetroLite]

Thanks everyone for the help 2.5 is in and it runs nicely

[Orangevirus]

Thanks everyone for the help 2.5 is in and it runs nicely

how much did you pay for it

[RetroLite]

$600

[Orangevirus]

$600

600 shipped? that's cheap as hell for a 2.5

[RetroLite]

Yeah! How much knock is allowable on a stock engine I am getting 2 knock while accelerating

[Aitch]

Yeah! How much knock is allowable on a stock engine I am getting 2 knock while accelerating

For $600 2 knocks are acceptable. I think there is a reason it was so cheap.

[Hyperion]

Yeah! How much knock is allowable on a stock engine I am getting 2 knock while accelerating
That's why it was $600...... 0 knock is acceptable in my engine...

[Dave_The_BMXER]

That's why it was $600...... 0 knock is acceptable in an engine...

*fixed

**edge cases need not be discussed.

[loki]

you don't want any knock under acceleration

the engines will show KR while cruising as the car is trying to optimise fuel economy

[midnightfxgt]

Who's There?

[loki]

Who's There?

vent
vent who?
vent a rod!!!!!

[Orangevirus]

you swapped a 2.5L engine, but are you on a stock 2.5L tune? that could be the problem.

[RetroLite]

Yeah 2.5 tune on the 2.0 ecu

[Aitch]

Yeah 2.5 tune on the 2.0 ecu


http://files.sharenator.com/jackie_chan_meme-s320x160-290082.png

[Flagrum_3]

Yeah 2.5 tune on the 2.0 ecu

There in lies the problem...most probably.

[RetroLite]

How do you think the 2.0 to 2.5 miata guys are doing it? You think they magically all acquired 2.5 ecus and had the dealership reprogram them to their clusters? Doubt it

[Flagrum_3]

How do you think the 2.0 to 2.5 miata guys are doing it? You think they magically all acquired 2.5 ecus and had the dealership reprogram them to their clusters? Doubt it

How do you know their not having issues also?...Honestly! Alot of people will not admit too things...Just saying it may be the issue. Certain parameter's may not be programmable or absent with the different ECUs.


_3

[Kiyomi]

from what ive read, its not severe, but u should try and tune it out as much as you can. you dont want zoom zoom boom again.

[Orangevirus]

What year is your car again? because unless you have a 2010+ 2.0L, your ecu is nowhere near the same, and as much as you get it *close* to a stock 2.5L tune, it won't be.

That being said, 2* KR isn't engine killing KR ( on these engines ). It depends also where it's happening, what RPM?
I'm going to guess it's in the Lower to midrange WOT rpm, because you probably still running the 1rst gen cam tables which are too aggressive for the 2.5L.

[RetroLite]

What year is your car again? because unless you have a 2010+ 2.0L, your ecu is nowhere near the same, and as much as you get it *close* to a stock 2.5L tune, it won't be.

That being said, 2* KR isn't engine killing KR ( on these engines ). It depends also where it's happening, what RPM?
I'm going to guess it's in the Lower to midrange WOT rpm, because you probably still running the 1rst gen cam tables which are too aggressive for the 2.5L.

Happens at low rpm at wot also feels like the car jerks when I am just cruising. Kinda like it looses power than gains it back again constantly while just cruising. What do you suggest?

[Orangevirus]

Happens at low rpm at wot also feels like the car jerks when I am just cruising. Kinda like it looses power than gains it back again constantly while just cruising. What do you suggest?

well I wouldn't be able to tell you much without looking at a log, but my guess would be VVT or fueling, or a combination of both

[greyseason]

I suggest a new ecu.

[Hyperion]

I suggest a new ecu.
A 2.5 ecu in a 1st gen? Good luck.

[greyseason]

A 2.5 ecu in a 1st gen? Good luck.
Sorry 2.3 ecu like the other guy

[midnightfxgt]

How do you think the 2.0 to 2.5 miata guys are doing it? You think they magically all acquired 2.5 ecus and had the dealership reprogram them to their clusters? Doubt it

Instead of arguing, and getting defensive, listen to what people say. You have a history of asking questions, and doing the opposite. Look where that has gotten you.

[Fack_Dude]

Op. Sell your money pit and buy a gen 1 speed and call it a day.

[Girds]

Op. Sell your money pit and buy a gen 1 speed and call it a day.

+1

[Orangevirus]

Either buy a speed 3, or get proper tuning and ensure your parts are in proper working order, AKA the wastegate <--- that alone is an engine killer.

and I can tell you how the miata guys do it, easy. They have ECUTek for tuning, which is about the best you can get for a stock ECU and way more capable than pretty much anything else other than standalones.

[greyseason]

Either buy a speed 3, or get proper tuning and ensure your parts are in proper working order, AKA the wastegate <--- that alone is an engine killer.

and I can tell you how the miata guys do it, easy. They have ECUTek for tuning, which is about the best you can get for a stock ECU and way more capable than pretty much anything else other than standalones.

so will ECUtek work with a mazda3 computer? isnt it the same motor?

[Fack_Dude]

so will ECUtek work with a mazda3 computer? isnt it the same motor?

No, and plus the ecutek tune will cost around 1k for tune and license.

[Orangevirus]

so will ECUtek work with a mazda3 computer? isnt it the same motor?

nope not even close.

Our ECU's are mostly Mitsubishi, while the ECUTek Miatas are Denso.
1rst gens also have Denso, but it's not the same, doesn't work. ECUTek also goes specifically by the ECU hardware ID's, and if they don't match a Miata ECU.. nope.

and with ECUTek you can't self tune, (unless you buy a developer kit? I think) and you have to pay a premium to one of their affiliated "master tuners" only