Coolant change/flush.

[Hotsky]

This weekend I noticed on my trip computer that the coolant temp reached high 90's where usually it's been in the 80 degree range. My '05 Mazda 3 just passed 160k mark and with summer ahead I was thinking I'm due for another coolant flush or maybe I'll do the drain and fill myself. It was only done once about 4 years ago, the place I went to took the rad out and flushed it out with water by hand. Took forever lol but I think they specialize in Rads IIRC...

Either way I want to buy the antifreeze myself and have them put it in if I don't do it myself. Is there anything recommended for Mazdas? or what would be a good product to use? I'd like to go with something rated for a bit longer than 2 years.

[silverstarmazda]

mazda fl22 is usually the go to coolant. i personally use something else but the cost is about the same from what i remembered

[Booter22]

go with the dealer stuff, always heard bad stuff about the off brand and how it can gum up the tstat and water pump. double check the manual. as the fl22 from factory had an 8 year 192 000km life, but i think after replacement it drops like a stone. so now you may still need to do it every 2 years, but you could always have the coolant ph level checked to see if its still good or bad.

[Hotsky]

Cool thanks, I guess they are available only at the dealerships.


but you could always have the coolant ph level checked to see if its still good or bad. hmm had to look that one up. Didn't know you can do that!! According to a couple sourced on you tube over 0.5 in DC-v 20 mode and coolant needs to be replaced?

Edit: Looks like I'm in luck Canadian tire has one on sale right now for $9.99 Sweet! :D

[Booter22]

Cool thanks, I guess they are available only at the dealerships.

yup

[TheMAN]

non-FL22 coolant needs to be changed every 2 years or 52k, whichever comes first
the reason for this is the additive package breaks down due to thermal cycling, metals flaking off from the casting process, and oxidation

when using a coolant concentrate, always use distilled water to prevent mineral build up in radiator/engine parts, and to increase coolant life through a great reduction of electrolysis

if cooling system has been maintained per schedule, flushing is almost never necessary unless you can noticeably see contaminants in the coolant... usually, drain and fill is all you need to do

[Hotsky]

Bought a digital multimeter today and had a chance to try it on the Mazda and wife's '09 City Golf. Mine read 0.26 wife's was 0.10 - she got the VW less than year ago so maybe it was changed just before... But I expected higher for my car. I did a partial pump and fill in the Fall (thru the reservoir) but I didn't expect it to help much.

[TheMAN]

the golf uses a long life coolant, which is probably why the reading was low
your car doesn't however

[stock3]

Personally I'm using Zerex G-05 in my 3. I fully flushed the system and refilled with G-05 over 5 years ago and 100,000km. Last spring, when I opened up the system to change the thermostat, everything was spotless inside and the old coolant looked brand new in the transparent water bottle. No silicate drop out, as it is a low silicate formula and the cooling system is in perfect order as G-05 is rated for 5 years with proper flush.
It's readily available at Napa or Walmart in either 50/50 mix or full strength, that is why I converted, as I hate to be dependent on overpriced dealer stuff.



http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv330/krzysiekz1981/My%20Car%20Stuff/2013-11-23110252_zpsa96afccf.jpg (http://s696.photobucket.com/user/krzysiekz1981/media/My%20Car%20Stuff/2013-11-23110252_zpsa96afccf.jpg.html)

[staax]

I use Zerex G-05 in my Dakota, good stuff.

But for the OP I'd just stick with the FL22 stuff... buy the concentrate and then mix 50/50 (or whatever mix is best for your area) with distilled/deionized water.

[Como]

Ya. I did a lot of research before I changed my coolant. Because my water pump was leaking a bit I was going to drain and refill anyway. Almost all information I gathered steers you to go back and buy the OE coolant.
There's a lot of info out there as to why it's recommended.

[Superchargedx]

If you are having temp issues, I would look more toward replacing the thermostat as well as the coolant!
As for coolant, defiantly stick with the FL22 as it is meant specifically for our cooling systems.... Not only for a cooling/heating reasons but also for proper lubrication!!
Keep in mind, coolant temps will behave a little differently in the more hot and humid temps also!
Hope this helps :)

[TheMAN]

FL22 was not used until mid 2007 3s
older mazdas used the dark green coolant... it's not "prestone" type stuff though, it's still a generic japanese car formulation that greatly differs from what you can buy at crappy tire... the mazda canada official replacement is the piss yellow coolant... you can substitute for a subaru coolant meant for any 90s subaru and it's should be the same dark green stuff as factory

[stock3]

Yup, FL22 is nothing special and just a regular Japanese coolant formula. Worst part is that it cannot be bought in concentrated form, only 50/50 mix, which is fine for regular radiator drain and fill, when the system was properly maintained, but when you have to flush the system, which would be recommended in OPs case, you will have to waste a lot of that expensive 50/50 mix to get the proper concentration again.

[Nova 3 GT]

I'm due for a coolant flush next year and I've been using the FL22 coolant since 2010. (It was originally filled with the japanese dark green coolant as TheMAN calls it)

I'm happy to say that there is no debris floating in the coolant tank and my water pump is still OEM untouched. I never miss a maintenance point. ;)

[TheMAN]

Yup, FL22 is nothing special and just a regular Japanese coolant formula. Worst part is that it cannot be bought in concentrated form, only 50/50 mix, which is fine for regular radiator drain and fill, when the system was properly maintained, but when you have to flush the system, which would be recommended in OPs case, you will have to waste a lot of that expensive 50/50 mix to get the proper concentration again.

FL22 is nothing close to "regular"! It is a HOAT type coolant and has much different additive package from the old style phosphate additive coolant, this is how it's able to last much longer than the old coolant
if you think green is green, you have much to learn

EDIT: you can buy concentrated FL22 from Ford

[XTOTHEL]

90 degrees is normal.

[stock3]

FL22 is nothing close to "regular"! It is a HOAT type coolant and has much different additive package from the old style phosphate additive coolant, this is how it's able to last much longer than the old coolant
if you think green is green, you have much to learn

EDIT: you can buy concentrated FL22 from Ford

What I meant by regular Japanese coolant, is that it's no different from Honda blue, Toyota pink or Subaru long life coolants. I never said it's the same as old green coolant. And these coolants still use phosphates for quick cavitation protection, hence the "H" in HOAT, as the organic inhibitors take long time to lay the protective coating.
If Fords speciality green coolant can be had in concentrated form the it is the only one out there, as all other Japanese brands only carry 50/50 mix.

[TheMAN]

not all Japanese coolants are HOAT, the Honda dark green for example is a OAT... I haven't looked at the MSDS for it yet, but it's possible it's the same as the Mazda (not Canada)/Subaru stuff
the Toyota pink coolant comes only in premix form, and Subaru's new long life coolant (the Super blue) is also in premix only

if you think Mazda is the only Japanese automaker doing this premix thing, you are wrong... they're doing this because too many idiots out there put in tap water into cooling system, greatly shortening the coolant's life, they also screw up the ratio which causes bad freeze and overheat protection