Dash Lights Dim When Using Window Switches (Up - Closing Window)

[Magnitudex]

Recently I had my car just die on me, it seemed that the battery was too low to effectively start the car (when turning the key it would not start - no turning over noises nothing) Eventually I got the car started by jumping it (had to wait for 25 mins with the leads on the battery and the booster car on. I went in to get my battery replaced (previously the battery was only 2 years old), replaced the battery and now I seem to have this issue where when I rev the engine in neutral the cabin lights dim slightly and when I use the window switches it causes the dash lights to dim. You can also hear the electrical whining noise going in and out.

Here's a video of the lights dimming (https://vid.me/ip7A)

Any help would be appreciated, I initially thought that the starter wire was corroded and hence why my car would not start that day and the dead battery was just something that went along with it (since the windshield wipers, radio, lights seemed to work fine that day, while the car didn't start)

Any ideas what to do next, could it be the alternator ?

[morganc]

Voltage fluctuations are quite normal on a car. Unless you have a 'charge light' indicator flagging on your dash, then your alternator is still good. The instant the car detects 'net negative charging' (ie, no power going into batt), then a light is flagged. Maybe take some voltage measurements for us across the battery:
-Off: should be around 12.3V
-Engine on -no load: around 13.4V
-On: lots of loads (fan, defrost, all lights) should be able to hold close to 13V

I would really worry that much. I've got a 2010 with a 1 year old battery and I can cause the revs the drop (alternator loading) if I stall the window motors momentarily.

[Lumberjack]

If it was the starter the battery would be fine and all your lights would work - but the car wouldn't turn over. If it is the battery the car might turn over, or click, or nothing but you must determine "why" the battery is dead? It could be a bad battery, a bad charging system, a bad connection to name a few. A two year old battery should not die unless you have done something to prematurely kill it such as leave lights on to kill it many times. Idiot lights only tell you when it's too late and do not forewarn of problems like a gauge does but you still have to be able to interpret the information. It is normal for there to be a voltage drop when using certain electrical devices but if it didn't do it before you must ask why is it doing it now?

[Magnitudex]

Thanks for the reply, but it seems I've come across the same issue again.

Scenario: Drove car all day doing errands and shopping, finally at my last stop I park a bit uphill, turn car off and return in about 20 mins for it to not start. As soon as I turn the ignition key the entertainment dash console screen turns off, while the main dash stays on and displays a light for the Battery Light, Seat Belt Light and the usual start up lights (Engine, E-Brake, Steering, etc..). When I turn the key I only hear the gas pump momentarily when turned to the first position (which is a normal sound I usually hear) then turn further with Clutch pressed in and nothing, no turning over sound, nothing just completely quiet.
I've replaced my battery 1 month ago so my suspicion leads me to believe that I may have a short somewhere in the car where Positive and Negative may be meeting and causing the drain in power.

I'll try to get some voltage reading tomorrow once I get my hands on my friends voltage meter and **** check the ground wires on the body.

If you have any other ideas what could be the problem, I'm open to suggestions.

Btw I drive a 2007 Mazda 3 Sedan GT Manual

[Squisher]

Clean all your connections. Did you do that properly when you replaced the battery? Both terminals and wires are clean and tight? A not very loose seeming terminal or stripped one will cause unending grief. Corroded connections too, certainly move to the starter connections and main grounds if the battery is tight.

[McGuyver_3]

Any aftermarket accessories on the car? What I have seen is old boomerang systems back up batteries would crap out and start drawing the battery. We then find the booms and remove them. 99.9% of the time problem solved.
Another alternative, The new battery that you just recently installed could have a bad cell in it. Have seen this a numerous amount of times this winter at work. I would have the battery tested.
A lso like mentioned, check connections for tightness and make sure no corrosion is on it.

[Lumberjack]

It's not a short and I believe you mean drain. A short will fry the electrical system or blow a fuse or fusible link immediately. You need to check the battery connections and charging system. If the battery is dead you won't hear the car turn over... The fact that the idiot light isn't coming on for charging system leads me to believe you simply have a poor battery connection. A quick check of the battery without equipment is to turn on the headlights.


Thanks for the reply, but it seems I've come across the same issue again.

Scenario: Drove car all day doing errands and shopping, finally at my last stop I park a bit uphill, turn car off and return in about 20 mins for it to not start. As soon as I turn the ignition key the entertainment dash console screen turns off, while the main dash stays on and displays a light for the Battery Light, Seat Belt Light and the usual start up lights (Engine, E-Brake, Steering, etc..). When I turn the key I only hear the gas pump momentarily when turned to the first position (which is a normal sound I usually hear) then turn further with Clutch pressed in and nothing, no turning over sound, nothing just completely quiet.
I've replaced my battery 1 month ago so my suspicion leads me to believe that I may have a short somewhere in the car where Positive and Negative may be meeting and causing the drain in power.

I'll try to get some voltage reading tomorrow once I get my hands on my friends voltage meter and **** check the ground wires on the body.

If you have any other ideas what could be the problem, I'm open to suggestions.

Btw I drive a 2007 Mazda 3 Sedan GT Manual

[morganc]

Being even more scientific about it, you need to place an Ammeter in series with a battery lead to see what your current parasitic drain is
Then you remove and reinstall fuses one-by-one to find the source of the drain.