Switching to Mobil1 [Archive]

MajesticBlueNTO

10-08-2004, 08:47 PM

for those wondering about the \"difference\" between 0w20 and 5w20...

Viscosity is ordinarily expressed in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of the fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the more viscous the fluid. Since viscosity varies inversely with temperature, its value is meaningless unless accompanied by the temperature at which it is determined. With petroleum oils, viscosity is now commonly reported in centistokes (cSt), measured at either 40Ã‚Â°C or 100 Ã‚Â°C (ASTM Method D445 - Kinematic Viscosity).

Source: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm

thus, according to the following charts:

Typical Properties

Mobil 1 0W-20 (5W-20)
SAE Grade 0W-20 (5W-20)

Viscosity, ASTM D 445
cSt @ 40Ã‚Âº C......................................43 (47)
cSt @ 100Ã‚Âº C....................................8.4 (8.3)

Viscosity Index, ASTM D 2270............165 (153)

Pour Point, Ã‚ÂºC, ASTM D 97.................-57 (-30)
Flash Point, Ã‚ÂºC, ASTM D 92................232 (200)
Density @15Ã‚Âº C kg/l, ASTM D 4052.....0.855 (0.858)

5w20 Source (http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_Drive_Clean_Oils.asp)
0w20 Source (http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSENPVLMOMobil1_0W-20.asp)

the oils are VIRTUALLY IDENTICAL in centistoke values @100C and Density values at 15C...centistoke values are fairly close at 40C (as expected, the 5w20 is slightly higher).

Granted the 0w20 in the comparison is a pure synthetic and the 5w20 is a non-synthetic, the major difference between the two is in the pour point and flash point values. As expected, the 0w20 is able to pour at a lower temperature than the 5w20. and, as a result of being synthetic, the 0w20 has a higher flash point.

what does all that mean? it is SAFE to use the 0w20 when a 5w20 is recommened, and you don\'t have to live in siberia to use 0w20.

Xenon

10-15-2004, 01:48 AM

Moved to Engine/Drivetrain

///M

10-15-2004, 05:00 PM

Made the switch today - Mobil1 0W20 - it says that it\'s also approved for Honda and Ford 5W20 applications.

Engine feels smoother now, but I think it\'s the placebo effect at work again. :p

firstmazda

11-05-2004, 03:31 AM

What kind (and what brand) of oil does the dealer usually put in during service??

MajesticBlueNTO

11-05-2004, 08:48 AM

Originally posted by firstmazda

What kind (and what brand) of oil does the dealer usually put in during service??

Motorcraft (Ford) 5w20 semi-synthetic ...a really good oil from the Used Oil Analysis reviews on bobistheoilguy

for those that want full true synthetic: mobil1, amsoil, royal purple, redline, motul are all good.

billyfo

11-05-2004, 05:54 PM

I just went to CanTire, many ppl recommended Redline, but it\'s selling $13/L, is it worth it?

majic

11-06-2004, 03:33 PM

damn!!! that\'s 2ce as much for the 0W20 mobil1 and from what i hear it is getting the best UOA (used oil analysis) for our cars!!!

ng3

11-25-2004, 11:31 AM

I\'ve been putting in Mobil1 5w30 from 4000k... and i\'m up to 25k now... What I have noticed is that the shaking you get at idle when the engine is hot is reduced for the first 3-4k after the oil change... Then it comes back...

MajesticBlueNTO

11-25-2004, 11:55 AM

Originally posted by ng3

I\'ve been putting in Mobil1 5w30 from 4000k... and i\'m up to 25k now... What I have noticed is that the shaking you get at idle when the engine is hot is reduced for the first 3-4k after the oil change... Then it comes back...

the 30 weight will be more viscous than the 20 weight of the 5w20 or 0w20. more viscosity = slightly more friction on the moving parts when using the 5w30, which is probably why you\'re not getting the shaking at idle for the first 3-4k after the oil change.

after 3-4k, mobil1 5w30 has been known to shear down to a 20 weight equivalent, which could explain why the shaking comes back.

ZoomZoom Girl

11-25-2004, 12:15 PM

So Mobil1 0W20 would be a better option, no? I am debating whether or not to make the switch for my 16000km check-up. I\'m leaning towards synthetic oil due to the severe cold we get here in Sudbury and the higher level of lubrication, better mileage attributed to this type of oil. I read that the Mobil1 0W20 synthetic oil is the equivalent to the 5W20 Mazda puts in our cars, not the Mobil1 5W30. Is this true? Also, can we run 0W20 year round? Has anyone had success bringing this type of oil to their dealer for an oil change? If so, how much did the oil change end up costing? Lastly, is a special type of filter required and will the dealer have this on hand, or do we have to supply that too?

MajesticBlueNTO

11-25-2004, 01:56 PM

Originally posted by ZoomZoom Girl

So Mobil1 0W20 would be a better option, no? I am debating whether or not to make the switch for my 16000km check-up. I\'m leaning towards synthetic oil due to the severe cold we get here in Sudbury and the higher level of lubrication, better mileage attributed to this type of oil. I read that the Mobil1 0W20 synthetic oil is the equivalent to the 5W20 Mazda puts in our cars, not the Mobil1 5W30. Is this true? Also, can we run 0W20 year round? Has anyone had success bringing this type of oil to their dealer for an oil change? If so, how much did the oil change end up costing? Lastly, is a special type of filter required and will the dealer have this on hand, or do we have to supply that too?

yes, 0w20 would be a better option, since it is approved for Ford and Honda 5w20 applications (you\'ll see the specification numbers on the back of the bottle) and 5w30 is not. in fact, your fuel consumption will go up with 5w30 since your engine has to work a bit harder with the higher viscosity oil.

yes, you can run 0w20 all year round :) when i go in for an an oil change at the dealer, i let the service advisor know that i\'ll be supplying my own oil and tell them the location of it in the car for the tech to find it.

when you do this, subtract ~$15 (maybe less, maybe more, but flipspeed can confirm), which is the cost of the oil they would have used, from the service price.

the dealer will have the filter on-hand for the 2.3L engine so you don\'t have to supply that ...hope that helps :)

ZoomZoom Girl

11-25-2004, 02:31 PM

:D So helpful! Thank you \"Majestic Blue\" for being around to answer so many of my questions. I\'m hoping that my dealer is one of those that will do a synthetic oil change and will allow me to bring in my own. All I need to know now is how much this will cost me??? I heard around 3 times more than a standard oil change (~$30) but this can\'t be right if you supply your own oil, right? Thanks again MB.

MajesticBlueNTO

11-25-2004, 02:55 PM

Originally posted by ZoomZoom Girl

:D So helpful! Thank you \"Majestic Blue\" for being around to answer so many of my questions. I\'m hoping that my dealer is one of those that will do a synthetic oil change and will allow me to bring in my own. All I need to know now is how much this will cost me??? I heard around 3 times more than a standard oil change (~$30) but this can\'t be right if you supply your own oil, right? Thanks again MB.

no problem :)

mobil1 0w20 is around $7.69 for 1L at Canadian Tire. for the first time, you\'ll need 5 - 1L bottles as the 2.3L takes ~4.2L. ask for them to give you back the bottle that isn\'t fully used.

if the dealer is the one that provides the synthetic oil, then it\'ll be about 3 times more than a regular oil change ;)

costs:

cost of oil = you\'re looking at about $44 in oil (after taxes)

service cost = whatever your dealer charges for service minus the cost of their oil.

total cost = cost of oil + service cost :D

Mayhem

11-25-2004, 11:36 PM

Where\'s the place to buy cheapest Mobil1 0w-20? There\'s only 1 Canadian Tire near me that stocks it, and they only stock it in the 1L bottles. I\'d like to be able to buy this stuff in bulk. Anyone know where? There\'s got to be more than 1 place to buy it.

majic

11-26-2004, 12:04 AM

surprisingly when i went to walmart.. the 4L jug (or is it 4.4??) was MORE expensive than 4x1L bottles.. (8 bux each vs 33 bux) so yah.. try walmart.. superstore (loblaws might cary it as well - i know they have the 5w20)

ZoomZoom Girl

12-01-2004, 03:06 PM

Checked local stores in Sudbury. Walmart does not carry Mobil1 0W20 and Canadian Tire now has these on for $7.19 (regular price is $7.99). Of course they have the large jugs in all OTHER configurations except the 0W20. :(

chaser

12-08-2004, 11:47 PM

I took the advantage of the Mobil 0W20 sales at Cantire ($7.19 vs $7.99) last Friday and switched to 0W20 on Sat at my 1st service around 7000km. The engine is smoother now and less vibration. Pretty sure this is not a placebo effect. Shifting becomes smoother too. I don\'t think the engine oil has any +ve effect to the transmission though. ;)

///M

12-09-2004, 12:08 AM

Are they still on sale? My 24k service is due soon.

chaser

12-09-2004, 12:27 AM

no, they are not ... at least for this week ... i grabbed the last 5 \"clean\" bottles :D

mazda3ride

12-09-2004, 06:50 PM

As Autoexe mentioned, Mobil1 has 3 different types of oils.

New Vehicle
Performance Drivinga
Higher Milage

We can eliminate one right off the bat. Which of the remaining 2 would be better suited? I am going in for my 16000KM service tomorrow.

///M

12-09-2004, 06:51 PM

none of the above

get the 0W20 Honda/Ford application

mazda3ride

12-09-2004, 07:04 PM

This one?

///M

12-09-2004, 11:05 PM

pic doesn\'t work

majic

12-09-2004, 11:31 PM

yeah.. but from the tip of the cap .. it looks to be the right 0W20 :D
grey - 0w20 synth
green - ???
red - ???
blue - ???

pic was too large to attach or failed in the attaching process.. try again :p

///M

12-09-2004, 11:57 PM

lol! yup the grey one is it
0W20

ZoomZoom Girl

12-10-2004, 09:24 AM

FYI, I just brought my car in for the 16000 km maintenance check-up. The 8000 km interval cost me $33.88 with tax and this one cost me $26.98 with tax, with my supplying 5L of Mobil1 0W20 synthetic oil (cost of $41.34 with taxes at Canadian Tire)....so this service call REALLY cost me $68.32 in total. Considering Mazda in Sudbury charges $89.95+ tax for a synthetic oil change, I saved over $35 by supplying my own oil! No need for tire rotation since I just had my winter rims/tires installed 3 weeks ago. I asked the Service Manager and he told me the only difference between the 8000 km and the 16000 km check is tire rotation (????)

mazda3ride

12-10-2004, 10:44 AM

I just came back from the dealer. I supplied my own own, Mobil1 0W20. I paid $18.10 when it was all said and done.

chaser

12-12-2004, 12:51 AM

Originally posted by mazda3ride
I just came back from the dealer. I supplied my own own, Mobil1 0W20. I paid $18.10 when it was all said and done.

I paid $0.23 less while i supplied my own oil as well ...:p , at Avante :D

mazda3ride

12-13-2004, 08:25 AM

Which one?

chaser

12-13-2004, 12:11 PM

Richmond Hill

Eric

02-01-2005, 06:44 AM

I originally posted this in the \"Westone Mazda\" thread, but it makes more sense here. Sorry for the double post.

I took my car in for an early oil change at about 1600 km. I wanted to switch to Mobil1 0w20 Synthetic Oil (I had brought my own oil for the change). I was told in no uncertain terms by the Service Manager (Ramesh) that Mazda did not reccomend synthetic oil. I pointed out the part of the label on the bottle saying that this oil was approved for 5w20 Ford and Honda applications. He said that they would put it in if I wanted, but if there were any engine problems in the future Mazda would not stand by their warranty. So basically I was told I was voiding my engine warranty by using synthetic oil!

I pressed him on what he thought the synthetic oil might do to the engine, and he just repeated that Mazda did not reccomemd synthetic oil and that if something broke or wore prematurely it would be my fault.

Has anyone else run into this? I see that other delerships are doing synthetic oil changes and will even supply the oil.

I am of the opinion the Mobil1 is a superior oil and better for the engine particularily in cold weather. Westowne Mazda is forcing me down a road that could lead to shortened engine life (I keep my cars a long time).

kl7402001

02-01-2005, 09:38 AM

hey cool answers to my question ... when i first open the hood i saw that 5w20 on the cap and i said what? that must be wrong ( cus it usually 10w30 or 5w30).. i thought cus the car was made in japan they just have the wrong cap on .. i guess its new? ..

Eric

02-01-2005, 07:14 PM

As a result of my experience at Westowne, I called Mazda Canada today and asked a very personalbe and bright young lady there \"Julie\" about using synthetic oil in the Mazda3. As soon as I said the words \"synthetic oil\", she said no synthetic oil was to be used in the Mazda3. When I asked why not, she replied that it would very likely destroy the seals in the engine, potentially causing the engine to sieze. She did say that they do not have complete test data on synthetic oil, but that the safe thing to do was clearly not to use synthetic oil.

Don\'t yell at me, I am just the messenger.

MajesticBlueNTO

02-01-2005, 09:08 PM

Eric

02-01-2005, 09:31 PM

Originally posted by MajesticBlueN

once again, preposterous. the motorcraft stuff used at dealerships is semi-synthetic...so, whatever this \"bright young lady\" told you is nonsense.

Once again, I encourage you to have the conversation with Mazda Canada yourself. Given the party line from the delaership and Mazda Canada and my lack of expert knowledge in this area I will not risk my warranty. I would feel pretty exposed If I had an engine problem during the warranty period and I had been using synthetic oil. That problem may have happened anyway but if I am using synthetic I am giving Mazda an out.

Here is a quote I just found in a FAQ on the Mazda Canada website.

Can I use synthetic oil in the engine of my Mazda vehicle?

Mazda has not done any testing related to the use of synthetic oils and therefore does not recommend the use of these products. However, using this type of product does not, in itself, affect the warranty on your Mazda. As Mazda vehicles are not designed with the use of synthetic oil in mind, any negative impact on the vehicle as a result of using synthetic oil will not be covered by warranty.

I am not saying that I think that synthetic oil will damage your engine. But given what the corporate line is, and depending on what problems you have, you could be taking one heck of a chance.

Peace.

MajesticBlueNTO

02-02-2005, 10:57 AM

this is my take: what it really means is that, to mazda, synthetic users = racers ..some racers beat the snot out of their engine at SOLO-1 or events like that and expected mazda to cover it under warranty. when a teardown was done on the engine, it was shown that the oil was synthetic.

the whole thing with the seals and engine seizing is nonsense. if you check out bobistheoilguy.com, you will see that Mobil1 0w20 has been shown to be the best oil for the 6i and the 3s (both with the 2.3L engine); there\'s independent research right there.

Eric

02-02-2005, 01:15 PM

Originally posted by MajesticBlueN

this is my take: what it really means is that, to mazda, synthetic users = racers ..some racers beat the snot out of their engine at SOLO-1 or events like that and expected mazda to cover it under warranty. when a teardown was done on the engine, it was shown that the oil was synthetic.

the whole thing with the seals and engine seizing is nonsense. if you check out bobistheoilguy.com, you will see that Mobil1 0w20 has been shown to be the best oil for the 6i and the 3s (both with the 2.3L engine); there\'s independent research right there.

You are most likely right in this. I am not for one second suggesting that synthetic oil is somehow bad. I have only reported what my dealership and Mazda Canada have said to me.

Please don\'t forget that I got drawn into this discussion because I did my research, and decided to switch my car to Mobil1 as soon as possible after the break-in period. I am a fan of synthetic oil. What has however stopped me from putting it in my car is that I cannot afford to give Mazda an excuse to not fix a warranty engine problem (anything from a simple oil leak to a completely siezed engine) becuase I knowing went against their guidance. If Mazda was supportive of synthetics, or even neutral on the issue I would put it in my vehicle instantly (I have five litres sitting in my garage).

Once the warranty expires, I will quite likely put it in unless history at that time (two or three years down the road) shows that others who used the synthetic oil have indeed had problems.

However, I am still of the opinion that for my own protection in the case of an engine problem, Westowne gave me the best advice by warning me not to put it in. If there is an engine failure, Mazda gets to do the determination of whether the synthetic oil was a contributing factor. I see a small conflict of interest there.

Coaster

02-02-2005, 09:56 PM

Let\'s look at this from Mazda\'s point of view. This is their entry level car & they want to sell a ton of them. Their goal is to get it to last past the warranty period, with some safety margin, & to not have to do any repairs under warranty. Since they have designed their engines with seals that are not compatible with synthetic oil is surely done to reduce cost. Using conventional oil & with regular oil changes will easily last double the warranty mileage, so there is no incentive for them to use or design for synthetic oil. Why would any car company want to sell an entry level car with an engine that lasts 500,000 km with no rebuild. Which is possible using synthetic.

If the seals leak using synthetic oil you can bet someone will complain about it & want Mazda to fix it under warranty.

I\'ve used synthetic in some of my previous cars, one leaked like a sieve & two had minimal leaks, I always had to keep an eye on the oil level.

I\'ll probably wait until the warranty is over & then make the switch. By then I\'ll be changing my own oil anyway.

MajesticBlueNTO

02-02-2005, 11:37 PM

Originally posted by Coaster

Let\'s look at this from Mazda\'s point of view. This is their entry level car & they want to sell a ton of them. Their goal is to get it to last past the warranty period, with some safety margin, & to not have to do any repairs under warranty. Since they have designed their engines with seals that are not compatible with synthetic oil is surely done to reduce cost. Using conventional oil & with regular oil changes will easily last double the warranty mileage, so there is no incentive for them to use or design for synthetic oil. Why would any car company want to sell an entry level car with an engine that lasts 500,000 km with no rebuild. Which is possible using synthetic.

interesting...too bad the OEM stuff is semi-synthetic

Originally posted by Coaster
I\'ve used synthetic in some of my previous cars, one leaked like a sieve & two had minimal leaks, I always had to keep an eye on the oil level.

what were your previous cars (year, model)?

Eric

02-03-2005, 08:14 AM

Originally posted by MajesticBlueN

interesting...too bad the OEM stuff is semi-synthetic

MBN, you have mentioned this a few times, and I know it to be true. I dont see your point however. Mazda has specified a very good semi-synthetic oil for this vehicle. They are however saying not to use full synthetic oil. Are you suggesting that in any application where a semi-synthetic oil is recommended that it must therefore be alright to use a full synthetic? This would seem to imply that you believe that the semi-synthetic blend is identical in every way to the full synthetic, or that the full synthetic may be different from the semi-synthetic but that none of those differences could be damaging to the engine.

Is it true that all synthetic oils are chemically identical? Do we know that the \"synthetic\" in Motorcraft 5w20 semi-synthetic oil is the same \"synthetic\" in Mobil1/Redline/Royal Purple? Do we even know what percentage of synthetic there is in Motorcraft 5w20? I certainly do not, but it you or anyone else knows, I am willing to learn.

It is not clear to me that having a semi-synthetic blend with some percentage of synthetic in the crankcase is the same as having the crankcase full of pure synthetic.

Once again, I am not a chemical engineer, but in layman\'s teminology, I thnk that synthetic oil is more \"slippery\" than regular oil. That is one of the primary reasons that I would like to use it (I thnk that is would lead to reduced engine wear). I can also see that full synthetic might be more \"slippery\" than a semi-synthetic.

I can envisage a seal design that that would allow a more slippery fluid to escape but not a less slippery one. Or perhaps the slipperier oil doesn\'t cling as well to surfaces made of certain materials which might be present in the engine. Perhaps the cylinder walls don\'t have a honing pattern or roughness which is appropriate for such a slippery oil.

This is just one (vaguely) described characterictic of engine oil, which is a complex beast. Since I clearly do not know the answers to even simple questions like these, I don\'t see my way clear to go against Mazda\'s guidance on this issue.

majic

02-03-2005, 09:56 AM

backing MBN and to answer some of your questions (and more):

first link from googling \"semi synthetic oil\" (http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Why_Synthetics.aspx)

While petroleum refining is an advanced science, small amounts of contaminants, such as sulfur and reactive hydrocarbons, cannot be completely removed from petroleum, and may end up in motor oil base stocks.
first link in google search for \"synthetic vs mineral oil\" (http://www.authorized-amsoil-dealer-for-synthetic-motor-oil.com/amsoil_articles/mineral-petrolium-oil-compared-to-synthetic/)

Crude oil possesses thousands of varieties of contaminants, depending upon the oil\'s geographical and geological origins, which no amount of refining can entirely remove. Corrosive acids, paraffins and other waxes, heavy metals, asphalt, napthenes and benzenes, as well as countless compounds of sulfur, chlorine, and nitrogen, remain in the finished product.

...

Equally as important, petroleum oil molecules, as contrasted to uniform-sized synthetic oil molecules, vary significantly in size, shape and length. When your engine heats up, the smaller molecules evaporate, while the larger ones tend to oxidize and become engine deposits.

...

Beyond the protection afforded an engine during these particular instances of high-operating temperatures, high-temp thermal stability moreover permits an engine oil to deliver overall extended service life, (significantly longer drain intervals), in all driving conditions, because it prevents the phenomenon of sludge and carbon formations on critical engine parts, (valves, valve guides, oil channels, lifter assemblies, piston rings, etc.), due to oil thickening, a problem commonly attributable to petroleum oil breakdown at high temperatures. As these deposits accumulate in the oil circulatory system, oil flow drops, thus accelerating engine wear. To the user of synthetics, the benefits are, (1) reduced wear of critical engine components; (2) significantly reduced sludge and varnish...a cleaner engine; (3) reduced engine drag due to uniform viscosity; and, (4) increased fuel economy due to reduced component wear.\"

...

\"In the same Popular Science article on synthetic oils, veteran race car driver Smokey Yunick was quoted: \"When you disassemble an engine that\'s been run on petroleum oil, if you examine the rings and cylinder bores with a glass you\'ll see ridges and scratches - that\'s the wear going on. With a polyol, (a variety of synthetic), when you take the engine apart everything has the appearance of being chrome-plated. In the engine we ran at Indianapolis this year we used a polyol synthetic. When we tore the engine down, you could still see the original honing marks on the bearings...no wear at all. We put the same bearings back in because the crankshaft never touched the bearings. I\'ve never seen that before.\"

from here (http://www.synlube.com/oil.htm)
semi-synthetic (synthetic blend) oil \"is usually less than 10% and sometimes as low as 2%.\"

you can read the rest of the articles and MANY others. bottom line is, just like the dealer tells you NOT to race the engine and granny it, they tell you to use THEIR oil THEIR services so that THEY can make $$ off of ya. the guy at mototuneusa (http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm) brings up a valid point (read the paragraph/sentence just prior to every \"This is a good question\" on that page)

just why would the dealer tell you something that would SEEM common sense - \'take it easy on your engine\'? b/c most ppl are scared. they just forked out 20K, 30K, 40K or more on a car and they will take it \'easy\' or they might \'damage\' the engine. why? b/c they are NOT educated about this stuff.

everyone (dealerships/car makers included) are out there to make $ off you. and the more engine rebuilds or cars can be sold to you, the more $ in their pocket. if you know the \'trade\' secrets, you\'re one step ahead of the game. you know how to take care of the car, you prolong its life and inadvertently save yourself some money :)

you\'re right. i\'m no chem.. eng either but AFWIK synthetic oil is more slippery than mineral oil but the purpose of a seal is to \'close tight\' and isolate two chambers/areas. also someone correct me if i\'m wrong but synthetic oil is made up of EXACT molecules (through synthesis hence Ã¢â‚¬Ëœsynthetic oilÃ¢â‚¬â„¢). Synthetic oil can last for many thousands of miles without any significant reduction in performance or protection characteristics, whereas the mineral oil breaks down (more info) (http://www.motoroilbible.com/two.html) and the large molecules break up into smaller ones and that is what dictates how small of an opening they can squeeze through NOT how slippery a molecule is ;) also you don\'t want the oil to cling to anything, it\'s there to coat the surfaces to provide effortless slippage and protection.

interesting article here Mobil extends OCI to 15K mi!!! (http://www.imakenews.com/lng/e_article000351473.cfm?x=b4klrks,b2DwLHtj)

summary:
o synthetic prolongs engine life
o dino/mineral oil has varied size particles. smaller ones evaporate/oxidize and deposit on engine components
o semi-synthetic != synthetic
o semi-synthetic/blend oil contains up to 10% synthetic components (rest is mineral oil) somewhere else i read it was up to 20% i can\'t find the link now.
o Avante has no issues with you using synthetic oil (AFAIK)
o oil change intervals can be increased. the extra $ you spend is offset by the fewer changes/year

HTH

Eric

02-03-2005, 11:02 AM

Warning! Long and potentially boring post, but this story does have a point.

Let me try this...

I am a sailor. I know a lot about sailboats and their gear. A possible parallel comes to my somewhat nautically twisted mind. Ropes.

Modern ropes are a lot like oil in some ways. They are something that most people never think about, that seem pretty simple but that are actually very complex chemically and in method of construction.

Ropes are described by many technical parameters, just like oil. Just a few of these are:
material of constuction, thickness, weight, slipperiness, softness, modulus (resistance to stretch), susceptibility to damage by point loading (minimum radius you can safely take the rope around), resistance to abrasion, resistance to being crushed, percentage of strength lost when the rope is spliced or knotted (different for every knot), construction of the core, construction of the cover, number of fibers in a strand, number of strands in a braid, UV sensitivity, etc... the list goes on and on.

Now, let\'s take a halyard as an example. A halyard is a rope used to raise and lower something, in this example let us say a headsail (halyards for different sails have different ideal characteristics). Three things that are very important in this halyard are high modulus (low stretch), strength and weight (the higher something goes on a sailboat the lighter you want it to be, weight up high makes the boat more tender (tippy) ).

When aramid (Kevlar) ropes appeared on the market a number of years ago. They were used with great success in the leading edge race boats of the time. Kevlar is lighter, stronger and has much lower stretch than traditional polyester (Dacron) ropes used on most pleasure boats. The result was that weekend racers flocked to their chandleries, bought vast quantities of expensive Kevlar ropes. The number of catastrophic failures was phenomenal!

What happened? Despite it\'s many desirable characteristics, and partly because of them Kevlar has a number of points that have to be taken into consideration when designing a system in which it will be used. Some of the key ones that resulted in the failures were:

Kevlar is a relatively brittle fibre. It is very poor as point loading. If you take a Kevlar around a smaller sheave (pulley) designed for polyester, you will bend it too far causing some of the fibers to break. Not only that, but the semi-circular cross section of the groove in the sheave designed for polyester rope is bad for Kevlar. Kevlar rope has a parallel core, not a braided one. this means that as you take the rope around the sheave you are applying more stretch to the outer fibers than the inner ones. Due to Kevlar\'s high modulus, this meant that almost all of the load was being taken by a thin layer of the outer strands, which were failing. A sheave designed for Kevlar has a larger radius and a flatter groove than a sheave designed for the same diameter Dacron rope.

Kevlar cannot be knotted without losing 85% or more of its strength. New splices had to be developed to work with the new fibre. Weekend sailors did not have the tools and skills and knowledge to make these splices. They just tied knots.

Kevlar is very susceptible to UV damage. in order to reduce the weight aloft (up high) some weekend racers where removing the covers of the rope where it went up the mast. Problem was that when the sails are not up, the halyard is Down close to the deck and the uncovered length is exposed to the sun.

Was Kevlar a bad rope for its day? No! It was a great rope! But it had to be used in a system that had been completely designed with it in mind from the ground up! Just dropping it into a system designed for a different rope was a recipe for guaranteed disaster.

The people selling the Kevlar rope were advising the people buying it not to just substitute it for polyester rope, but casual sailors bought it anyway because it was new and cool and they didn\'t think that all of that technical stuff really matters anyway. Besides it was stronger, lighter and had less stretch.

Is there a real parallel with synthetic oil here? I can\'t say for sure. I do know that complex devices are designed as systems. If the engineers who designed the system tell me not to substitute a particular component of that system or even if they tell me they don\'t know what will happen if I do, perhaps I should listen.

Peace.

Eric

02-03-2005, 11:19 AM

Great post majic!

Originally posted by majic
just like the dealer tells you NOT to race the engine and granny it, they tell you to use THEIR oil THEIR services so that THEY can make $$ off of ya. the guy at mototuneusa brings up a valid point (read the paragraph/sentence just prior to every \"This is a good question\" on that page)

just why would the dealer tell you something that would SEEM common sense - \'take it easy on your engine\'? b/c most ppl are scared. they just forked out 20K, 30K, 40K or more on a car and they will take it \'easy\' or they might \'damage\' the engine. why? b/c they are NOT educated about this stuff.

But adding synthetic is babying the engine. The dealer should be encouraging me. It should lead to less failures. The dealer would make more money charging people for more expensive synthetic oil changes.

everyone (dealerships/car makers included) are out there to make $ off you. and the more engine rebuilds or cars can be sold to you, the more $ in their pocket. if you know the \'trade\' secrets, you\'re one step ahead of the game. you know how to take care of the car, you prolong its life and inadvertently save yourself some money :)

HTH

I am not convinced that the dealers are that Machiavellian :). They encourage you to buy rustproofing, paint protection, etc.. which potentially prolong the life of your car.

majic

02-03-2005, 11:33 AM

Originally posted by Eric

Great postmajic!

But adding synthetic is babying the engine. The dealer should be encouraging me. It should lead to less failures. The dealer would make more money charging people for more expensive synthetic oil changes.

thanks BUT do not let the dealer pull wool over your eyes. the dealer/car manufacturer would make more money for a NEW/rebuilt engine than 10bux more for an oil change (they have oil in bulk and costs them much less than an average joe) especially when your OCI increase with fully synthetic oil!!!

Originally posted by Eric
I am not convinced that the dealers are that Machiavellian :). They encourage you to buy rustproofing, paint protection, etc.. which potentially prolong the life of your car.

through your various posts on this topic i figured out that you are a) very gullible b) are \'careful with money\' - ala george costanza ;) c) would like to take best care of your car possible.

i think that you\'re all of the above tho ;) BUT the dealers markup EVERYTHING. check THEIR rust proofing vs Krown\'s or FX Autos or anyone elses. they usually send it to that shop and then tack on $XXX or whatever. a lot of the \'added features\' are completely useless and are just a ploy to get more money out of the unaware customer. did you read teh fine print on rust proofing? ONLY IF IT MAKES A HOLE it will be \'warrantied\' andrealistically if u take good care of the car (regular washes and waxes) you won\'t see a HOLE maybe some surface rust - NOT COVERED. did you know that most \'paint sealants\' are just glorified wax jobs? ask anyone for their opinion and you\'ll see.

why do you think you can barely get any $ off the mazda3? well it\'s selling like HOTCAKES so they KNOW if they don\'t sell \'the car that hasn\'t been produced yet\' to you they will to the next shmo who comes in and pays sticker price (no offence to anyone)

peace

Eric

02-03-2005, 11:46 AM

Originally posted by majic

through your various posts on this topic i figured out that you are a) very gullible b) are \'careful with money\' - ala george costanza ;) c) would like to take best care of your car possible.

Wow! free personality analysis over the internet. Maybe you could make money at this. :)

a) I have been called many things, but never gullible. If I am gullible, why don\'t I just buy the synthetic oil story hook line and sinker. That\'s where I started after all. I would buy careful or analytical, but not gullible.

b) I don\'t think you can say that anyone who owns a biggish boat is really \'careful with money\'.

c) I do want to take care of the car. One thing that serious sailing teaches you is \"If you take care of your equipment, it will take care of you\".

I think we can continue this without further personality analysis.

majic

02-03-2005, 11:59 AM

Originally posted by Eric

Wow! free personality analysis over the internet. Maybe you could make money at this. :)

a) I have been called many things, but never gullible. If I am gullible, why don\'t I just buy the synthetic oil story hook line and sinker. That\'s where I started after all. I would buy careful or analytical, but not gullible.

b) I don\'t think you can say that anyone who owns a biggish boat is really \'careful with money\'.

c) I do want to take care of the car. One thing that serious sailing teches you is \"If you take care of your equipment, it will take care of you\".

I think we can continue this without further personality analysis.

lol.. i think we should just end this topic b/c a few things won\'t change
0) we know synth is good :D
1) mazda will say synth is bad and you can\'t change that
2) some dealers (the better ones) would DIE for you and go that extra mile or more to make you a satisfied return customer who spreads word about their AWESOME service - in the end if there are 2 companies providing same service but on different \'quality\' levels, the one with the better customer satisfaction will profit better.
3) you (or any other user here) will switch to synth if they want to and some will take a \'chance\' with warranty and some won\'t.
4) we can beat this to death like the alternator thread, really no point. :sarc we\'ve seen each others arguments

to clarify a bit by gullible i meant, the dealers are feeding you info and you seem to take their word for it w/o MUCH questioning (wrt rustproofing and dealers wanting \'the best for your car\' etc) maybe you\'re easily swayed.. i dunno.. anyway.. didn\'t mean it in any derogatory way.

careful with money - i guess you know what to spend your money on wisely. i\'m the same way, I penny pinched for this car to pay it all off and i saved a lot in the process. you get what you pay for and if u take care of it.. as u say it\'ll take care of you.. i\'ll be a bit more careful next time :p just try not to read too much into it. l8r

if u want to continue this, PM me. thx

Eric

02-03-2005, 01:49 PM

Originally posted by majic
to clarify a bit by gullible i meant, the dealers are feeding you info and you seem to take their word for it w/o MUCH questioning (wrt rustproofing and dealers wanting \'the best for your car\' etc) maybe you\'re easily swayed.. i dunno.. anyway..
Trust me, I question anything that anyone tells me when trying to sell me a product. That goes not just for Mazda, but also the synthetic oil producers. My real point there was not what great products I thought these dealer add ons are, but if the dealer was really interested in tricking you into destroying your car as quickly as possible he would adopt a completely different stance. What good dealers are really interested in is building a good relationship with you. That is what really maximizes their profits. You are very valuable to your dealer. He will not intentinally do things that will cause him to lose your trust.

didn\'t mean it in any derogatory way.

No offense taken. Part of my personality you missed in your analysis is that I\'m pretty tolerant and thick skinned and willing to give people the benefit of the doubt. However be aware, when you start criticizing people, not everyone will be as understanding as me. :) . Best to stick to the details of the debate.

mazda3ride

03-16-2005, 07:37 PM

Mobil1 0W20 is on sale at Canadian Tire for 6.99 for a 1L bottle. Sale ends March 18th.

Nick

billyfo

03-16-2005, 08:46 PM

does the oil have expire date? I still have 3 more mths for next oil change?

I switched to Mobil 1 on Feb, it seems to increase the mileage, I don\'t know if the weather becomes warm, or my right foot doesn\'t floor the gas pedal hard enough.:D

mazda3ride

03-17-2005, 05:59 PM

I would say NO but I am not 100 %.

nifty6

07-13-2005, 02:51 PM

Originally posted by Eric

As a result of my experience at Westowne, I called Mazda Canada today and asked a very personalbe and bright young lady there \"Julie\" about using synthetic oil in the Mazda3. As soon as I said the words \"synthetic oil\", she said no synthetic oil was to be used in the Mazda3. When I asked why not, she replied that it would very likely destroy the seals in the engine, potentially causing the engine to sieze. She did say that they do not have complete test data on synthetic oil, but that the safe thing to do was clearly not to use synthetic oil.

Don\'t yell at me, I am just the messenger.

A lot of debate regarding the use of dyno oil vs synthetic
Check this out
http://tinyurl.com/d2skt
I have used this product for the last 5 years with no problems.
A friend of mine has a lawn and snow plow business and owns and operates 3 pick up trucks.
all 3 are 1999 and all have over 350,000K/M . A lot of abuse and towing etc.
He changes his own oil from day one and every month and a half.
He uses a quality dyno oil, when on sale at Crappy tire and uses Quaker State filters.
On every or sometimes at every other change he puts in a can of Molyslip, also bought at crappy tire for $10.00
No major leaks, just some oil sweating, no problems. No major or even any engine repairs so far.
Not sure if the Molyslip helped but he has to go with what might be working for him. At lot cheaper than synthetic. He also put it in his transmission and only one truck required a tranny rebuild.
Go to the above link and read the testimonals especially the Toronto Star articles.
This might be a better or equal alternative to synthetic oils.
I will be putting this in my 05 M3 at the 8000KM oil change that I will do myself.

SABIO

08-25-2005, 01:13 PM

Sorry to bring back an oldy but goody...

Mobil recommends 5W20 for our cars...

http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/motoroil/car_care/which_oil/WhichOilOption2.aspx

So under $7 is a good price for mobil 1?
Under $12 is good for Redline? and that would be the same I guess a 5w20? (the Blue Bottle)

Using Redlines race oil would not be a good idea I guess?

majic

08-25-2005, 02:04 PM

Originally posted by SABIO

Sorry to bring back an oldy but goody...

Mobil recommends 5W20 for our cars...

http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/motoroil/car_care/which_oil/WhichOilOption2.aspx

So under $7 is a good price for mobil 1?
Under $12 is good for Redline? and that would be the same I guess a 5w20? (the Blue Bottle)

Using Redlines race oil would not be a good idea I guess?

5W20 is recommended (just like the manual says) but Mobil 1 5W20 is fairly new and it\'s pretty much 0W20 (its predecessor) rebranded so that ford, mazda, et all don\'t b!7ch that we use \'non-recommended\' oil.. UOA have been quite good with the 0W20 (from mazda6tech board)

where did you find mobil 1 for less than 7 bux? last i saw 0W20 was $8.29 @ CT

SABIO

08-25-2005, 03:01 PM

I just thought CT was around $7... when on sale.. I will look into My price later today

FLIPDADY

08-25-2005, 03:11 PM

You might want to check Loblaws at Hwy. 7 and Bayview. I know they sell Mobil 1 cheaper than Crappy Tire.

billyfo

08-25-2005, 06:02 PM

0w20/5w20 don\'t have sales all the time like 5w30, etc. I don\'t know why, sometimes CT had sales for Mobil 1 5w30 but never 0w20.

from what I saw, other than CT, Walmart and PartSource, none carry 0w20

SABIO

08-26-2005, 02:04 AM

Bummer... My source can\'t get the 0w20 or 5w30... just 10w30 - 0w40 - 10w40 booooo...

Wonder if 10w30 would be good? 5w30 / 10w30 bet it makes no difference.....

well... looking at Mobils site... I can\'t really see what the difference is between the oils..

Mobil 1 0W-40

SAE Grade 0W-40
Viscosity, ASTM D 445
cSt @ 40Ã‚Âº C 80
cSt @ 100Ã‚Âº C 14.3
Viscosity Index, ASTM D 2270 187
Sulfated Ash, wt%, ASTM D 874 1.2
HTHS Viscosity, mPaÃ‚Â·s @ 150Ã‚ÂºC ASTM D 4683 3.6
Pour Point, Ã‚ÂºC, ASTM D 97 -54
Flash Point, Ã‚ÂºC, ASTM D 92 236
Density @15Ã‚Âº C kg/l, ASTM D 4052 0.855

Mobil 1 0W-30

SAE Grade 0W-30
Viscosity, ASTM D 445
cSt @ 40Ã‚ÂºC 56
cSt @ 100Ã‚ÂºC 10.3
Viscosity Index, ASTM D 2270 175
Sulfated Ash, wt%, ASTM D 874 1.2
HTHS Viscosity, mPaÃ‚Â·s @ 150Ã‚ÂºC ASTM D 4683 2.99
Pour Point, Ã‚ÂºC, ASTM D 97 -54
Flash Point, Ã‚ÂºC, ASTM D 92 234
Density @15Ã‚Âº C kg/l, ASTM D 4052 0.851

Slightly higher in the Viscosity index... Which is better.. Same Flash/Pour/Density
And the 0W40 is approved by Porsche/BMW/Mercedes Think I will go that route

Mobil 1 5W-20

SAE Grade 5W-20
Viscosity, ASTM D 445
cSt @ 40Ã‚Âº C 48.3
cSt @ 100Ã‚Âº C 8.8
Viscosity Index, ASTM D 2270 163
Sulfated Ash, wt%, ASTM D 874 1.0
HTHS Viscosity, mPaÃ‚Â·s @ 150Ã‚ÂºC ASTM D 4683 2.62
Pour Point, Ã‚ÂºC, ASTM D 97 -47
Flash Point, Ã‚ÂºC, ASTM D 92 228
Density @15Ã‚Âº C kg/l, ASTM D 4052 0.

But this is what is recommended... hmmmmmmmmmmm AAARRRRGGGHHHHH!!!!!

:hoho

MajesticBlueNTO

08-26-2005, 03:19 AM

Originally posted by SABIO

Bummer... My source can\'t get the 0w20 or 5w30... just 10w30 - 0w40 - 10w40 booooo...

Wonder if 10w30 would be good? 5w30 / 10w30 bet it makes no difference.....

in cold start-up conditions, a 5w30 will be less viscous than the 10w30 ...at operating temp, they\'re basically the same.

Originally posted by SABIO
well... looking at Mobils site... I can\'t really see what the difference is between the oils..

look harder :p

Originally posted by SABIO

Slightly higher in the Viscosity index... Which is better.. Same Flash/Pour/Density
And the 0W40 is approved by Porsche/BMW/Mercedes Think I will go that route

higher viscosity is better for which engine? if you\'re looking to make the engine work harder and have higher frictional loses, then select the higher viscosity oil.

0w40 is approved by porsche/bmw/mercedes because they recommend either 10w40 or 5w40 for their engines. just because they recommend a particular type of oil (that is not recommended by the manufacturer of the 3\'s engine) does not mean it will be beneficial in the 3\'s engine

Originally posted by SABIO

Mobil 1 5W-20

SAE Grade 5W-20
Viscosity, ASTM D 445
cSt @ 40Ã‚Âº C 48.3
cSt @ 100Ã‚Âº C 8.8
Viscosity Index, ASTM D 2270 163
Sulfated Ash, wt%, ASTM D 874 1.0
HTHS Viscosity, mPaÃ‚Â·s @ 150Ã‚ÂºC ASTM D 4683 2.62
Pour Point, Ã‚ÂºC, ASTM D 97 -47
Flash Point, Ã‚ÂºC, ASTM D 92 228
Density @15Ã‚Âº C kg/l, ASTM D 4052 0.

But this is what is recommended... hmmmmmmmmmmm AAARRRRGGGHHHHH!!!!!

:hoho

5w20 is recommended.... 0w20/5w20 will be best (note that the 0 weight in 0w20 is really a 5 weight with a lower pour point...basically, there is no such thing as a 0 weight, the oil companies needed something to indicate that it had a lower pour point than a 5 weight)

SABIO

08-26-2005, 03:47 AM

gee.. isn\'t this a simple topic...

ok Mr. MajesticOIL

I think I would have no probs with Mobil 1 10w30... right? :sarc

I also hear that Mobil 1 30 weight shears down to a 20 weight equivalent...(after 4k) :)

A little heavier... but still Miles better than plain old oil

addition.... Mobil 1 10w30 stats are closer to 5w20 than their 5w30.. figure that out

FLIPDADY

08-26-2005, 07:28 AM

FYI Mazda head office uses Motul 5W30 on the 3\'s they test and Motul 10W40 on the 8\'s. I\'m currently running 5W30 synthetic in my 3.

SABIO

08-26-2005, 01:23 PM

alright... the viscosity index of mobil 1\'s 10w30 is lower than their 5w20 and 5w30?

Everything thing else is pretty much the same... So i am going with Mobil 1\'s 10w30....

SABIO

08-27-2005, 01:04 AM

perfect... seems like on BITOG Esso XD3 gets rave reviews...

Mobils 5W-30 and 10W-30 have lower viscosity levels than the dealer oil and protect better (i.e no engine drag, no gas mileage loss)... so either will do...
both exceed the newest \"Energy Conserving\" requirements of ILSAC GF-3.(save gas)
If 10w30 is better and cheaper.. seems like a good choice...

but now I have to look into Esso XD3 :(

SABIO

08-27-2005, 12:43 PM

Supercenter (Loblaws) Has 4litre jugs of Mobil 1 5w30 supersyn for $25.87 1L @ $6.97

///M

08-27-2005, 02:46 PM

Does anyone know where I can buy Mobil1 0W20 in the large jugs? All the places seem only to have the grades apart from 0W20 in the large jugs. I\'ve never seen it and end up buying 4-5 small bottles every time.

SABIO

08-27-2005, 03:00 PM

On the Other forum... it was posted that 0W20 was discontinued

nifty6

08-27-2005, 03:11 PM

5W30 in summer
5w20 in winter
dyno oil

CelestSpeed3

08-27-2005, 06:49 PM

I\'ve read some used oil analysis results for the 6\'s 2.3L engine, which I believe is the same one in the Mazda3 GT. Engine wear went up when switching to a 10w30 as opposed to the recommended 5w20. I also remember reading somewhere that a 5w20 is thicker than a 10w30 in certain conditions, I\'ll have to look for the link to where I saw that. But the stock oil is decent already (semi-sythetic). I would only go to full synthetic if you race regularly. I autoX my 6 and I\'m using the dealer oil and I have not had any problems.

///M

09-01-2005, 01:27 PM

Originally posted by SABIO

On the Other forum... it was posted that 0W20 was discontinued

The 0W20 grade of Mobil1 has been replaced by 5W20, but I\'ve yet to see it for sale.

SABIO

09-02-2005, 08:33 AM

Originally posted by autoexe
The 0W20 grade of Mobil1 has been replaced by 5W20, but I\'ve yet to see it for sale.

I Have Yet To Find It..... 5w30 sure...but 5w20, stuff must rare....

I still can\'t believe Supercenter sells 4L jug of 5w30 for $25.87... thats a deal

mEtH

10-17-2005, 09:13 PM

wheres the cheapest place to pick up 0w20 in the 1 litre bottles?

jdanielsg

10-26-2005, 02:21 AM

hi guys I think everyone is forgetting a very important point.. the manual it says right there to use 5w20 which Mobil1 now produces, to make sure its ILAC or whatever certified which it is. There no mention whatsoever about semi synthetic or full syn or whatever just 5w20. So if u changed to syn 5w20 theres nothing they can do with you. Whatever the dealer or mazda says doesnt mean anything 1 coz its no on paper. Even whatever someone quoted on the website about synthetic oil is ambiguous... its says it will not cause damage but they will not cover you if there is damage its just a circular argument and I am curious why no one has quoted the manual. see manual 8-13 onwards. So legally ( which is the manual) there is nothing to say synthetic would harm your vehicle.. the dealer can yap away but it does not make a difference unless they send you a letter telling you not to use full syn. According to mazda n all the bitchy dealers out there ur suppposed to follow the manual sowe should all be good n do as we r told. Anyways Mobil1 oil is gurantted if it screws up your vehicle they are supposed to fix it. ( according to the website)

mwaters

10-29-2005, 11:11 AM

Had my oil changed this morning at Erin Mills Mazda, used Castrol Syntec 5w20 (7.99 cdn tire) and had no problems with the dealer. Got a $15 credit off their regular service for using my own oil.

jdanielsg

10-30-2005, 12:37 PM

Originally posted by jdanielsg

hi guys I think everyone is forgetting a very important point.. the manual it says right there to use 5w20 which Mobil1 now produces, to make sure its ILAC or whatever certified which it is. There no mention whatsoever about semi synthetic or full syn or whatever just 5w20. So if u changed to syn 5w20 theres nothing they can do with you. Whatever the dealer or mazda says doesnt mean anything 1 coz its no on paper. Even whatever someone quoted on the website about synthetic oil is ambiguous... its says it will not cause damage but they will not cover you if there is damage its just a circular argument and I am curious why no one has quoted the manual. see manual 8-13 onwards. So legally ( which is the manual) there is nothing to say synthetic would harm your vehicle.. the dealer can yap away but it does not make a difference unless they send you a letter telling you not to use full syn. According to mazda n all the bitchy dealers out there ur suppposed to follow the manual sowe should all be good n do as we r told. Anyways Mobil1 oil is gurantted if it screws up your vehicle they are supposed to fix it. ( according to the website)

on point to note theres no 5w20 now in canada closest is 0w20, but the US has already scrapped 0w20 and they only have 5w20 now. I asked and 5w20 is coming our way soon. ( Mobil 1)

malam

11-11-2005, 10:54 AM

Can you ask for synthetic oild at a dealer when you take your car for an oil change ? Or do all the mazda dealers use synthetic oil for Mazda3s ?
Thanks.

majic

11-11-2005, 11:42 AM

Originally posted by malam

Can you ask for synthetic oild at a dealer when you take your car for an oil change ? Or do all the mazda dealers use synthetic oil for Mazda3s ?
Thanks.

some dealers will outright tell you you\'re voiding the warranty (ask Eric) .. AFAIK, all dealers use semi-synthetic oil for our cars..

do a search.. (http://torontomazda3.com/forum/search.php) this has been discussed...

jdanielsg

11-12-2005, 09:51 PM

Originally posted by majic

Originally posted by malam

Can you ask for synthetic oild at a dealer when you take your car for an oil change ? Or do all the mazda dealers use synthetic oil for Mazda3s ?
Thanks.

some dealers will outright tell you you\'re voiding the warranty (ask Eric) .. AFAIK, all dealers use semi-synthetic oil for our cars..

do a search.. (http://torontomazda3.com/forum/search.php) this has been discussed...

These dealers r bullshiting coz, it doesnt say anywhere on your manual about synthetic or semi syn.. :)

mwaters

11-19-2005, 09:42 AM

Mobil 1 is on sale now at Canadian Tire (until Nov 25). 5W30 & 10W30 4.4L jug with a bonus 1L for $29.99.

The CT at Royal Windsor/Lakeshore also has 0W20 Mobil 1 in stock for those interested @ $8.29 per L.

Kevin@nextmod

11-20-2005, 10:52 AM

I want to ask, i just had my 3 for 2 months and now with 4300 clicks on it. I also had my oil change at 2k. My question is should i go for another oil change ? because i want to switch to synthetic while my car is somewhat new. Is there a problem with that? or should i wait to however many clicks? Or should i just go for it....?

nifty6

11-20-2005, 07:40 PM

Originally posted by Pearl_Hatch

I want to ask, i just had my 3 for 2 months and now with 4300 clicks on it. I also had my oil change at 2k. My question is should i go for another oil change ? because i want to switch to synthetic while my car is somewhat new. Is there a problem with that? or should i wait to however many clicks? Or should i just go for it....?

Have heard and some might want to correct me but Syn oil should not be used before 10,000KM
Do a google search

chaser

11-21-2005, 12:49 AM

Royal Purple FAQ (http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Myths.aspx)

Can I put Royal PurpleÃ‚Â® into my brand new car?
Yes. Royal PurpleÃ‚Â® currently offers many viscosity grades of API Licensed Motor Oils. (See the Royal PurpleÃ‚Â® Motor Oil Product Page or visit the API Engine Oil Licensing and Certification Website for more information). To allow for proper break in of the engine, Royal PurpleÃ‚Â® recommends waiting until the manufacturer\'s first scheduled oil change or a minimum of 2,000 miles in new gasoline engines. Allow 8,000 to 10,000 miles before using Royal PurpleÃ‚Â® in diesel engines.

Mobil 1 Myths (http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Myths.aspx)

Myth: You should break in your engine with conventional oil, then switch to a synthetic oil like Mobil 1.
Reality: You can start using Mobil 1 with SuperSyn Technology in new vehicles at any time, even in brand new vehicles. One of the myths that surrounds synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. The fact is, current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design the high-performance cars listed above, Mobil 1 can be used starting the day you drive the car off the showroom floor.

IMO, you should wait till your next oil change (around 8k to 10k) to switch to Synth oil. It shouldn\'t make a big difference to the driver or engine.

mwaters

11-22-2005, 09:16 AM

Just wait until your next scheduled change then switch to syn. You could do it now but since you just had it changed save the time/$ and get it done at 8K.

I had an early oil change as well at 1500 and switched to syn recently at 8K so I could match the recommended change intervals

jdanielsg

11-22-2005, 08:09 PM

manual says 5k to change oil or 4k something like that, anyways mobil says what 8k ? So is there a way to check if the oil is dirty if not then leave it for longer w/o voiding your warranty?

majic

11-23-2005, 12:14 AM

Originally posted by jdanielsg

manual says 5k to change oil or 4k something like that, anyways mobil says what 8k ? So is there a way to check if the oil is dirty if not then leave it for longer w/o voiding your warranty?

SHOW me where the manual says \"5k or 4k something\" that\'s bullshit.. MAZDA says every 8K.. manual says .. hmm open your eyes and flip to page 8-5.. canadians follow schedule 2 (every 8K)

the only way to tell if the oil is \'dirty\' is to do used oil analysis (UOA).. that\'s done at the lab.. usually you wait till the first scheduled oil change so that the engine can break in with dino oil..

jdanielsg

11-23-2005, 09:48 PM

Originally posted by majic

Originally posted by jdanielsg

manual says 5k to change oil or 4k something like that, anyways mobil says what 8k ? So is there a way to check if the oil is dirty if not then leave it for longer w/o voiding your warranty?

SHOW me where the manual says \"5k or 4k something\" that\'s bullshit.. MAZDA says every 8K.. manual says .. hmm open your eyes and flip to page 8-5.. canadians follow schedule 2 (every 8K)

the only way to tell if the oil is \'dirty\' is to do used oil analysis (UOA).. that\'s done at the lab.. usually you wait till the first scheduled oil change so that the engine can break in with dino oil..

I am not gonnna bother responding to ur flamy post.....

RedRaptor

11-23-2005, 10:22 PM

Originally posted by jdanielsg

Originally posted by majic

Originally posted by jdanielsg

manual says 5k to change oil or 4k something like that, anyways mobil says what 8k ? So is there a way to check if the oil is dirty if not then leave it for longer w/o voiding your warranty?

SHOW me where the manual says \"5k or 4k something\" that\'s bullshit.. MAZDA says every 8K.. manual says .. hmm open your eyes and flip to page 8-5.. canadians follow schedule 2 (every 8K)

the only way to tell if the oil is \'dirty\' is to do used oil analysis (UOA).. that\'s done at the lab.. usually you wait till the first scheduled oil change so that the engine can break in with dino oil..

I am not gonnna bother responding to ur flamy post.....

If you only had listened to any advice that you get here on this forum...then maybe his post wouldn\'t be so \"flamy\". :sarc

majic

11-24-2005, 09:05 AM

Originally posted by jdanielsg

I am not gonnna bother responding to ur flamy post.....

1) you JUST responded :sarc
2) i answered your questions didn\'t i? isn\'t that what you wanted? or did you needed some TLC with that?
3) it\'s not my fault you\'re a ****tard who talks smack, doesn\'t take people\'s advice and bitches when given advice
4) when you shoot your mouth off next time (hopefully not) please provide proof and back up your claims.. otherwise STFU

PS. please do not threat me through PMs ;)

Cardinal Fang

11-24-2005, 09:16 AM

*Sits down with bag of popcorn and soda.*

wtom

11-24-2005, 10:52 AM

Originally posted by Cardinal Fang

*Sits down with bag of popcorn and soda.*

Here you go sir, that\'ll be $30 for TM3 VIP service, please.

http://www.fmvperformance.com/forum_items/Smileys/default/popcorn2.gifhttp://www.fmvperformance.com/forum_items/Smileys/default/cheers.gif

RedRaptor

11-24-2005, 11:14 AM

Originally posted by majic
PS. please do not threat me through PMs ;)

WOW...you did that to you too? He sent threats over PM to me as well last week. :hoho

Told me to watch out or else I\'m going to get my arse beat. Eventhough the guy is like in Ottawa and I\'m in the GTA.

I don\'t know if I feel sorry for this guy or do I still think he\'s an idiot.:sarc

Cardinal Fang

11-24-2005, 11:22 AM

Gotta love courage behind a keyboard.

mwaters

11-24-2005, 12:09 PM

internet bullies are awesome! I hope someone doesn\'t threaten me with a pm ... it\'s sooo scary.:p

billyfo

11-24-2005, 06:25 PM

majic and Red, if he really threatening you, why not send pm to police, let them check its IP and location the real person, of course lock him up till 4th gen Mazda 3 come out:p

to be real, pm to TM3, and tell him to ban the IP

jdanielsg

11-24-2005, 07:51 PM

yes please people send me to the police.. whatever losers.. u guys r LAME man lame.....

wtom

11-25-2005, 12:58 PM

Why do I sense this is all due to the Senators vs Maple Leafs rivalry? :p

MZR3

11-26-2005, 06:05 PM

mazda3ride

12-29-2005, 07:39 AM

Mobil 1 5w30 is on sale at Canadian Tire for 6.99 for 1L. This is the first time I am seeing this in a Canadian Tire Store, though some have seen it before. It has a blue cap and it says for \"Newer Vehicles\" on it. Can someone please confirm that this is the one that we should be using?

wtom

12-29-2005, 11:04 AM

Originally posted by mazda3ride

Mobil 1 5w30 is on sale at Canadian Tire for 6.99 for 1L. This is the first time I am seeing this in a Canadian Tire Store, though some have seen it before. It has a blue cap and it says for \"Newer Vehicles\" on it. Can someone please confirm that this is the one that we should be using?

Hey long time no see. I picked up 0W20 (as always) gray cap. The CanTi I went to (Leslie/Sheppard) were sold out of 5W30. When I was there last night (28th, approx 6:30pm) they had 7 bottles of 0W20 remaining.

billyfo

12-29-2005, 12:30 PM

at my last oil change, I used Castrol 5w20 instead of Mobil 1 Ow20, not much difference between fuel consumption or engine smoothness, at least I don\'t feel any, but it\'s cheaper and lots of stock than Mobil 1

mazda3ride

12-30-2005, 06:50 AM

Originally posted by wtom

Originally posted by mazda3ride

Mobil 1 5w30 is on sale at Canadian Tire for 6.99 for 1L. This is the first time I am seeing this in a Canadian Tire Store, though some have seen it before. It has a blue cap and it says for \"Newer Vehicles\" on it. Can someone please confirm that this is the one that we should be using?

Hey long time no see. I picked up 0W20 (as always) gray cap. The CanTi I went to (Leslie/Sheppard) were sold out of 5W30. When I was there last night (28th, approx 6:30pm) they had 7 bottles of 0W20 remaining.

Ya I know, it has been a while. I have been very busy this past little while with wedding plans and buying a house. The wedding plans are on going but we finally purchased a house, so now I will have more time to add to my whopping 0.31 posts a day.

12-31-2005, 10:55 AM

I\'ve just switched to Mobil 1 this week for my first oil change at 5800km. Honestly, I\'m sure there is a slight difference, however, it might not be very noticeable. My friend who did his oil change on the same day but with the regular Castrol semi-synthetic commented that he felt that his car was smoother after the oil change. So I guess, if there was any difference, it must be down to new clean oil as opposed to synthetic reasons. Anyway, the good thing because of it being synthetic and suppose to last longer than semi-syn, I\'m going to bring in my car for the next service at 16000km interval instead of the usual 8000km. I\'m confident of the claim by the synthetic oil manufacturer\'s. :)

Kevin@nextmod

01-23-2006, 12:28 PM

I\'m due for my oil change. Anyone know where i can get good price on mobil 1 syn oil?
I saw CT 1L for $8.29. Prefer GTA or markham. Don\'t want to go too far. Also should I go for the 5W30? One last thing, do I HAVE to bring it back to the dealer to change it? I want to save some time (because of skoo) and just do it at a local shop.

KenYork

01-23-2006, 11:07 PM

does syn. make a difference?

Kevin@nextmod

01-23-2006, 11:43 PM

Went for my oil change today and I went to CT to buy 5 1L bottles of mobil 1 5W30. Oil was $50 +$20 labor to change it.
Car seems smoother or it might be placebo effect.

ds2chan

01-24-2006, 10:50 AM

Originally posted by Pearl_Hatch

Went for my oil change today and I went to CT to buy 5 1L bottles of mobil 1 5W30. Oil was $50 +$20 labor to change it.
Car seems smoother or it might be placebo effect.

damn, that\'s a mighty expensive oil change.. I hope it was worth it.. where did u go to get ur oil change?? u can go anywhere u want.. it doesn\'t have to be at a mazda dealership..

MajesticBlueNTO

01-24-2006, 11:54 AM

Originally posted by Pearl_Hatch

Went for my oil change today and I went to CT to buy 5 1L bottles of mobil 1 5W30. Oil was $50 +$20 labor to change it.
Car seems smoother or it might be placebo effect.

if you bought Mobil1 5w30, shoulda bought Castrol Syntec 0w30 (German Castrol - Made in Germany) which was on sale this week.

it is a far better oil than Mobil1 5w30 and one of Castrol\'s true synthetics.

RedRaptor

01-24-2006, 12:21 PM

Originally posted by ds2chan

Originally posted by Pearl_Hatch

Went for my oil change today and I went to CT to buy 5 1L bottles of mobil 1 5W30. Oil was $50 +$20 labor to change it.
Car seems smoother or it might be placebo effect.

damn, that\'s a mighty expensive oil change.. I hope it was worth it.. where did u go to get ur oil change?? u can go anywhere u want.. it doesn\'t have to be at a mazda dealership..

You think so? Mobil1 oil is high quality stuff that comes stock on Porshe and Corvettes. Its synthetic oil which will last longer (can go 10,000km easily) and it protects your engine better than regular dino oil.

As for a $20 labour charge at a Mazda dealership, don\'t forget the price includes the oil filter.

You seem to be alarmed by a lot of prices here on TM3. Do you honestly find the oil change price high? Or were you just kidding?

Kevin@nextmod

01-24-2006, 01:13 PM

Its ok I guess it was worth it. I\'m satisfied now and it does seem the car is a bit smoother at idle. Maybe I\'ll try castrol next time and see if there is a difference. But I doubt i can tell by my non professional skills.

ds2chan

01-24-2006, 01:53 PM

Originally posted by RedRaptor

Originally posted by ds2chan

Originally posted by Pearl_Hatch

Went for my oil change today and I went to CT to buy 5 1L bottles of mobil 1 5W30. Oil was $50 +$20 labor to change it.
Car seems smoother or it might be placebo effect.

damn, that\'s a mighty expensive oil change.. I hope it was worth it.. where did u go to get ur oil change?? u can go anywhere u want.. it doesn\'t have to be at a mazda dealership..

You think so? Mobil1 oil is high quality stuff that comes stock on Porshe and Corvettes. Its synthetic oil which will last longer (can go 10,000km easily) and it protects your engine better than regular dino oil.

As for a $20 labour charge at a Mazda dealership, don\'t forget the price includes the oil filter.

You seem to be alarmed by a lot of prices here on TM3. Do you honestly find the oil change price high? Or were you just kidding?

well, expensive in respect to the $32 price at the dealership with whatever cheap oil they give u.. yeah, I know the oil is better for your engine but if you\'re getting an oil change every 4 months that adds up pretty quickly.. unless you actually do drive a porshe or corvette, I personally don\'t see the big deal in using mobil1..

well, the labour charge I wasn\'t surprised of.. it was the price of 5L of oil that shot the price up.. that\'s what I was referring to (well, trying to)..

well, not alarmed just surprised.. I\'ve never shopped for car stuff before.. I never even picked up a car magazine before so I have no clue about car prices and parts and anything to do with a car.. so it\'s all new to me.. even when I first got a computer I was shocked by prices because I\'ve never even touched a computer before.. but as the years went by I grew more accustomed to the prices because I had a better idea of what things should be priced at.. I\'m sure this is the same for everybody.. my example would be u don\'t just look at a $500 price tag on something that u don\'t know anything about and think ok, this is cheap.. I don\'t know about u but my eyes would be popping out until I could shop around and find out what the standard price is..

also, pearl, where did u get ur oil changed?? did u just go to a mazda dealership?? just wondering if you decided to try some car shop down the street..

Kevin@nextmod

01-24-2006, 02:02 PM

I didnt get it done at mazda..Like of course not. The only one near me is markham mazda which i do\'nt think i\'ll ever go. I went to Motor Workshop which is 4 mins from my house. That $20 includes the filter and the labor

wtom

01-25-2006, 09:57 AM

Originally posted by ds2chan

well, not alarmed just surprised.. I\'ve never shopped for car stuff before.. I never even picked up a car magazine before so I have no clue about car prices and parts and anything to do with a car.. so it\'s all new to me..

That is why you are here, young lad. :D

UncleIstvan

01-25-2006, 12:20 PM

so here i am at the end of this tread and i might be more confused than when i started. lol

so mazda may, or may not, cover defects on the engine if you use synthetic oil....and if you do decide to use synthetic oil apparently mobile1 0W20 is the best oil to use.....although it may, or may not be discontinued....in which case it is now called Mobile1 5W20 which seems like the best choice, except that the best oil might actually be Castrol Syntec 0W30.....although some people seem to be using 5W30....

so what oil is everyone actually using?

majic

01-25-2006, 12:26 PM

Originally posted by UncleIstvan

so here i am at the end of this tread and i might be more confused than when i started. lol

so mazda may, or may not, cover defects on the engine if you use synthetic oil....and if you do decide to use synthetic oil apparently mobile1 0W20 is the best oil to use.....although it may, or may not be discontinued....in which case it is now called Mobile1 5W20 which seems like the best choice, except that the best oil might actually be Castrol Syntec 0W30.....although some people seem to be using 5W30....

so what oil is everyone actually using?

clear as mud huh? :D

mobil1 0W20 every 10K - i guess i\'ll use mobil1 5W20 once it\'s in stock and 0W20 is out

SABIO

01-25-2006, 06:38 PM

Originally posted by Pearl_Hatch

Went for my oil change today and I went to CT to buy 5 1L bottles of mobil 1 5W30. Oil was $50 +$20 labor to change it.
Car seems smoother or it might be placebo effect.

umm.. Sorry i didn\'t see this earlier... Supercenter had 4.4L jug with 1L bonus for $29..YES.. I am not lying.. 5.4L of Mobil 1 5w30 for $29

Kevin@nextmod

01-25-2006, 07:16 PM

OH.!! Its alright. But where exactly is supercentre?

Kevin@nextmod

05-08-2006, 09:37 AM

Mobil 1 on sale 5 Litres for $35 at cdn tire. Go grab em.

majic

05-08-2006, 09:54 AM

Originally posted by Pearl_Hatch

Mobil 1 on sale 5 Litres for $35 at cdn tire. Go grab em.

5W30 or 10W30 only - $29.99 for a 4.4L + 1L .. no 5W20 or 0W20..

mEtH

05-08-2006, 09:57 AM

Yah that pisses me off, why dont they have the large jugs of the 0w20/5w20 yet!!!!

Kevin@nextmod

05-08-2006, 10:04 AM

I bought a jug of 5W30 for winter use. It was pretty good for the pass winter. I\'m using Motul 5W40. Motul is much better for performance because i can feel it right away after the oil change. But too expensive.

SABIO

05-08-2006, 02:42 PM

Mobil 1 4.4L plus 1L bonus $29.99 @ Canadian Tire. (5w30 / 10w30) While supplies last. No rain checks.

Not a bad deal. If you got some C.T.C Money laying around even better.

majic

05-08-2006, 03:00 PM

Originally posted by SABIO

Mobil 1 4.4L plus 1L bonus $29.99 @ Canadian Tire. (5w30 / 10w30) While supplies last. No rain checks.

Not a bad deal. If you got some C.T.C Money laying around even better.

lol.. read the previous page (http://torontomazda3.com/forum/read.php?TID=745&page=6#86520);)

SABIO

05-08-2006, 03:14 PM

errrr. O.k You got me on this one:( busted:)

DrunknFoo

05-08-2006, 03:23 PM

Somewhat off topic but related in a sense, not sure if I really want to create a new thread but here goes....

(I wonder if I\'ll get my first b*tch slapping from majic) :p

Past few months I\'ve been driving like crazy, averaging roughly 2100-2400kms/month, these days the mileage will probably drop down to 1200-1500km/month...

With this said I\'m considering about switching over to synthetic at my next oil change, but seeing how Mazda\'s maintenance schedule is every 8k/4months, I\'ll probably be \"forced\" to go every 4 months just to keep my car within \"schedule for warrenty reasons\" Should I bother switching over to synthetic? I\'ll probably just be wasting good oil right?

Thanks

Kevin@nextmod

05-08-2006, 03:48 PM

Its not about how much you drive your car. Its about how hard you use your engine. The synthetic oil will help keep your engine life last longer and will give you a slight better performance. Also it will smooth your engine during idle.

Flagrum_3

05-11-2006, 11:59 AM

Originally posted by DrunknFoo

Somewhat off topic but related in a sense, not sure if I really want to create a new thread but here goes....

(I wonder if I\'ll get my first b*tch slapping from majic) :p

Past few months I\'ve been driving like crazy, averaging roughly 2100-2400kms/month, these days the mileage will probably drop down to 1200-1500km/month...

With this said I\'m considering about switching over to synthetic at my next oil change, but seeing how Mazda\'s maintenance schedule is every 8k/4months, I\'ll probably be \"forced\" to go every 4 months just to keep my car within \"schedule for warrenty reasons\" Should I bother switching over to synthetic? I\'ll probably just be wasting good oil right?

Thanks

Hey Foo;) I think its all relative, Mobil 1 is good for 12000k according to Mobil 1 but, you worry about the warranty....an oil change every 4 months is not a priority, the mileage is though, so you can change it at 8000k to keep Mazda happy but in the meantime your getting the best protection for your engine.
On another note if you don\'t plan on keeping your car \'longterm\' then just use the factory stuff, but if you plan on having your engine last to 300-400k+ Mobil 1 is the way to go and it is relatively inexpensive compared to other things such as what you spend on fuel and to any major engine work down the road.

Just my .91 to 1us$ cents worth

_3

.

DrunknFoo

05-12-2006, 01:00 AM

Thanks for the opinions...
I assumed Mazda is an*l about the maintenance schedule when it comes to \"which ever comes first\". So the 4months vs the 8000kms doesn\'t really matter when warrenty becomes a factor?....

majic

05-12-2006, 01:56 AM

Flagrum_3

05-12-2006, 02:46 PM

Originally posted by DrunknFoo

Thanks for the opinions...
I assumed Mazda is an*l about the maintenance schedule when it comes to \"which ever comes first\". So the 4months vs the 8000kms doesn\'t really matter when warrenty becomes a factor?....

In my experience with warranty issues it would be very difficult for them to make you stick to the \"time\" i.e. 4 months and to make an issue of it.Basically because there are too many variables,such as one example some people store thier vehicles, but when it comes to the mileage they have you over a barrel.The whole reason of for the 4 months is because a percentage of people do very little driving or more precisely; many cold starts and short runs which will contaminate the oil much faster then if you start the vehicle less and drive longer distances.So basically what I\'m saying is I wouldn\'t worry about the time but I will be accurate with the mileage atleast until the warranty is up.

_3

.

Shat2

05-17-2006, 05:42 AM

Originally posted by Pearl_Hatch

I bought a jug of 5W30 for winter use. It was pretty good for the pass winter. I\'m using Motul 5W40. Motul is much better for performance because i can feel it right away after the oil change. But too expensive.
where do u get the Motul? :D i tried finding it at canadian tire but they don\'t sell it, only castrol syntec and quaker state :(

FLIPDADY

05-17-2006, 07:50 AM

Originally posted by Shat2

Originally posted by Pearl_Hatch

I bought a jug of 5W30 for winter use. It was pretty good for the pass winter. I\'m using Motul 5W40. Motul is much better for performance because i can feel it right away after the oil change. But too expensive.
where do u get the Motul? :D i tried finding it at canadian tire but they don\'t sell it, only castrol syntec and quaker state :(
You won\'t find Motul at Crappy Tire.

Try a performance shop.

Kevin 5W40? Do you drive the car hard all the time?

Kevin@nextmod

05-17-2006, 09:44 AM

Originally posted by FLIPSPEED

Originally posted by Shat2

Originally posted by Pearl_Hatch

I bought a jug of 5W30 for winter use. It was pretty good for the pass winter. I\'m using Motul 5W40. Motul is much better for performance because i can feel it right away after the oil change. But too expensive.
where do u get the Motul? :D i tried finding it at canadian tire but they don\'t sell it, only castrol syntec and quaker state :(
You won\'t find Motul at Crappy Tire.

Try a performance shop.

Kevin 5W40? Do you drive the car hard all the time?
I don\'t always drive my car hard all the time but when i need to i find my car have much better performance when the engine is hot. When I used the oil from the dealership, and when the car is all warmed up, the car don\'t seem to want to move. After I used the mobil 1 5W30, it had a slight difference in performance in hot weathers. With the Motul oil, I can feel the big difference when i boot it on the highway or when i want to drive a little faster to change lanes.

As for buying the oil, you can buy it from Vincent at his shop. His shops name is Motor workshop. The information is in the review garage section. The price for 5L is $70 and that is only the oil, with no filter and without changing it for you. He will charge you probably $90 for oil change with motul. But I got hook ups from a friend so I get them slightly cheaper and i change my own oil so....ya.....

Shat2

05-25-2006, 07:54 PM

Originally posted by Pearl_Hatch

Originally posted by FLIPSPEED

Originally posted by Shat2

Originally posted by Pearl_Hatch

I bought a jug of 5W30 for winter use. It was pretty good for the pass winter. I\'m using Motul 5W40. Motul is much better for performance because i can feel it right away after the oil change. But too expensive.
where do u get the Motul? :D i tried finding it at canadian tire but they don\'t sell it, only castrol syntec and quaker state :(
You won\'t find Motul at Crappy Tire.

Try a performance shop.

Kevin 5W40? Do you drive the car hard all the time?
I don\'t always drive my car hard all the time but when i need to i find my car have much better performance when the engine is hot. When I used the oil from the dealership, and when the car is all warmed up, the car don\'t seem to want to move. After I used the mobil 1 5W30, it had a slight difference in performance in hot weathers. With the Motul oil, I can feel the big difference when i boot it on the highway or when i want to drive a little faster to change lanes.

As for buying the oil, you can buy it from Vincent at his shop. His shops name is Motor workshop. The information is in the review garage section. The price for 5L is $70 and that is only the oil, with no filter and without changing it for you. He will charge you probably $90 for oil change with motul. But I got hook ups from a friend so I get them slightly cheaper and i change my own oil so....ya.....
Hmmm does it void the warranty if i use 5w40 instead of w20? i heard from my friend that motul is alot better than mobil 1, but he drives a A4 so i don\'t know if it applies to the 3. Can i get hook ups? :p

MAZDA Kitten

05-31-2006, 10:31 AM

Euroline carries Motul

Time for me to make the switch!

vortex-5

06-19-2006, 11:49 AM

Wait a sec i thought bigger wt ratings bogged down your engine more.

I.E. 20 wt is lighter than 40wt so 20 wt should be zippier.

Please educate me on this matter.

majic

06-19-2006, 12:00 PM

Originally posted by vortex-5

Please educate me on this matter.

link 1 (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/)
link 2 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_oil)

vortex-5

06-23-2006, 03:01 PM

Let me elaborate a little on majic\'s rather meaningless contribution:

Mobil 1 5W-20
SAE Grade 5W-20
Viscosity, ASTM D 445
cSt @ 40Ã‚Âº C 48.3
cSt @ 100Ã‚Âº C 8.8
Viscosity Index, ASTM D 2270 163
Sulfated Ash, wt%, ASTM D 874 1.0
HTHS Viscosity, mPaÃ‚Â·s @ 150Ã‚ÂºC ASTM D 4683 2.62
Pour Point, Ã‚ÂºC, ASTM D 97 -47
Flash Point, Ã‚ÂºC, ASTM D 92 228
Density @15Ã‚Âº C kg/l, ASTM D 4052 0.80

Mobil 1 5W-30
SAE Grade 5W-30
Viscosity, ASTM D 445
cSt @ 40Ã‚Âº C 64.8
cSt @ 100Ã‚Âº C 11.3
Viscosity Index, ASTM D 2270 169
Sulfated Ash, wt%, ASTM D 874 1.0
HTHS Viscosity, mPaÃ‚Â·s @ 150Ã‚ÂºC ASTM D 4683 3.09
Pour Point, Ã‚ÂºC, ASTM D 97 -54
Flash Point, Ã‚ÂºC, ASTM D 92 230
Density @15Ã‚Âº C kg/l, ASTM D 4052 0.80

now the wikipedia entry points us towards the viscosity index, but that\'s a very industry dervied number that doesn\'t mean much.

The two numbers which should help you figure out is the cSt number which is defined as:

1 centistokes = 1 mmÃ‚Â²/s

so for a Mobil1 5W-20 grade:
cSt @ 40Ã‚Âº C 48.3
cSt @ 100Ã‚Âº C 8.8

and 5W-30
cSt @ 40Ã‚Âº C 64.8
cSt @ 100Ã‚Âº C 11.3

As you can see it takes more force to move the 30 grade oil thus it would be more viscous so conventional wisdom will have you believe that throwing a 40 grade oil into your engine will slow things down not make things feel more peppy.

so once again if the people running 40 grade could enlighten me on how this makes your ride zippier I\'d like to know.

majic

06-23-2006, 03:41 PM

Originally posted by vortex-5

Let me elaborate a little on majic\'s rather meaningless contribution:

if you\'d just use the ****ing search feature then you would have found this (http://torontomazda3.com/forum/read.php?TID=745), a comparison of 0w20 and 5w20 and then just a brief note on how 5w30 compares to the former..

you said \'educate me\' but didn\'t mention how much you knew so i assumed you were a dumbass.. although presumably some geeky engineer.. in your defence, i thought i linked to MBN\'s post.. but i didn\'t.. i did now, so stop crying..

most people will say the car feels more zippy with any change they make.. whether it\'s a filter or a whole exhaust system.. why? 2 reasons.. b/c it in fact makes the car perform better or b/c they want to justify $5-$1000 upgrade.. actually with the oil, they may notice improvement simply due to NEW oil that hasn\'t broken down yet..

have a good weekend :)

MajesticBlueNTO

06-23-2006, 04:40 PM

Originally posted by vortex-5

Let me elaborate a little on majic\'s rather meaningless contribution:

Mobil 1 5W-20
SAE Grade 5W-20
Viscosity, ASTM D 445
cSt @ 40Ã‚Âº C 48.3
cSt @ 100Ã‚Âº C 8.8
Viscosity Index, ASTM D 2270 163
Sulfated Ash, wt%, ASTM D 874 1.0
HTHS Viscosity, mPaÃ‚Â·s @ 150Ã‚ÂºC ASTM D 4683 2.62
Pour Point, Ã‚ÂºC, ASTM D 97 -47
Flash Point, Ã‚ÂºC, ASTM D 92 228
Density @15Ã‚Âº C kg/l, ASTM D 4052 0.80

Mobil 1 5W-30
SAE Grade 5W-30
Viscosity, ASTM D 445
cSt @ 40Ã‚Âº C 64.8
cSt @ 100Ã‚Âº C 11.3
Viscosity Index, ASTM D 2270 169
Sulfated Ash, wt%, ASTM D 874 1.0
HTHS Viscosity, mPaÃ‚Â·s @ 150Ã‚ÂºC ASTM D 4683 3.09
Pour Point, Ã‚ÂºC, ASTM D 97 -54
Flash Point, Ã‚ÂºC, ASTM D 92 230
Density @15Ã‚Âº C kg/l, ASTM D 4052 0.80

now the wikipedia entry points us towards the viscosity index, but that\'s a very industry dervied number that doesn\'t mean much.

The two numbers which should help you figure out is the cSt number which is defined as:

1 centistokes = 1 mmÃ‚Â²/s

so for a Mobil1 5W-20 grade:
cSt @ 40Ã‚Âº C 48.3
cSt @ 100Ã‚Âº C 8.8

and 5W-30
cSt @ 40Ã‚Âº C 64.8
cSt @ 100Ã‚Âº C 11.3

welcome to October 8, 2004 (http://torontomazda3.com/forum/read.php?TID=745#9272) and November 25, 2004 (http://torontomazda3.com/forum/read.php?TID=745#14437)