View Full Version : Soft pedal? Suggestions?
Bagmister
11-23-2015, 12:11 PM
Hi everyone.
I changed the pads on my brakes yesterday and only the pads.
Everything went well changing the pads.
My brakes (while driving) seem to go about 3/4ths the way down the whole pedal before the brakes start engaging.
The e-brake is working fine.
I can't seem to remedy this problem.
I shouldn't need to bleed the brakes as I only changed pads.
Anyone every have any similar issues? Or alternative remedies to this solution?
It's a 2013 Mazda 3 Skyactiv
I did check the fluid and there is enough in there.
I don't have any leaks on any of my brake lines (I did check)
Much appreciated ahead of time for any responses.
Noisy Crow
11-23-2015, 04:27 PM
If you pump the brake pedal does it firm up, or does it stay soft? Was this right-away after changing the pads, or did it take a bit to show up (keeping in mind you will need to pump the brakes a few times at first to push the calipers back out).
If it stays soft you probably do have air in the system. When you changed the pads, how did you compress the rear calipers? Did you have to add fluid? Did you remember to put the top back on the reservoir?
Finally, are you sure this is different from before changing the pads? Or are you just paying more attention to your brake pedal since you just mucked with the brakes?
Bagmister
11-23-2015, 04:33 PM
If I pump them then they do firm up considerably, and maintains that firmness (even while driving I have to two step the brakes to firm them up.)
I drove around a bit afterwards and even pumping up the brakes to push the calipers back out.
I didn't add any fluid, and the cap is back on the reservoir.
Compressing the rear calipers I used needle nose and turned them in slowly.
And I'm 100% certain that the brakes are behaving very different then to before I changed them.
XTOTHEL
11-23-2015, 05:21 PM
could just be the new pads breaking in, getting meshed with the rotor?
Bagmister
11-23-2015, 05:42 PM
Not sure.
When I'm idling, if I pump the brakes up it starts to sink to that same level as I described before. 3/4th the way in.
Some of the advice I got was to change all the rotors, but I thought this wasn't neasecary??
XTOTHEL
11-23-2015, 05:46 PM
The rotors will become thinner, thus further travel of the pedal even with new pads. That plus the new pads breaking into the old rotors could be why. Assuming the installation went without error.
Bagmister
11-23-2015, 05:52 PM
No errors with installation.
The fluid in the lines should compensate for that though, shouldn't it?
I double checked everything I did.. So I'm still a bit lost.
I'll probably take to the dealership so see what they say.
staax
11-24-2015, 08:25 AM
The brake fluid reservoir is full, correct?
Did you bed the brakes after installing?
And lastly when you compressed the piston, did you make sure to take the cap off the reservoir? How far did you compress the piston into the caliper?
Bagmister
11-24-2015, 11:28 AM
Reservoir is full.
I did bed the brakes.
The cap was off when I pushed the Pistons back, but I'm not sure how far k push them to be honest.
I went as far as I thought was needed.
https://onlinedoctor.lloydspharmacy.com/blob/15208/72295ed8def7bdd683259fd0b399e9d0/viagra-pills---news-picture-data.jpg
Bagmister
11-24-2015, 12:20 PM
Lmao.
Unfortunately I can't just add 100mg of viagra to the brake fluid.
I don't think it will accomplish much. Haha.
Should I just get new front rotors and see if that is the remedy? Or just wait until my appointment next week at Mazda to have them find the solution?
Lmao.
Unfortunately I can't just add 100mg of viagra to the brake fluid.
I don't think it will accomplish much. Haha.
Should I just get new front rotors and see if that is the remedy? Or just wait until my appointment next week at Mazda to have them find the solution?
If you think there is a safety risk, don't wait to have it looked at. If you're comfortable with the way they are responding now and can wait until a Mazda appt. then wait and have it checked out then.
Bagmister
11-24-2015, 09:12 PM
Hey everyone.
Thanks for the input and stuff.
I bled the brakes and this fixed the problem. There was air in the lines, and I'm
Not sure how it got there but it did.
Future note for everyone's changing pads; bleed your brakes after. Lol
Hey everyone.
Thanks for the input and stuff.
I bled the brakes and this fixed the problem. There was air in the lines, and I'm
Not sure how it got there but it did.
Future note for everyone's changing pads; bleed your brakes after. Lol
I haven't had a chance to bleed the brakes after I did the brake/rotor change. Did you do a flush or just bleed and refill to max line?
Reddie1337
12-01-2015, 10:07 PM
Hey everyone.
Thanks for the input and stuff.
I bled the brakes and this fixed the problem. There was air in the lines, and I'm
Not sure how it got there but it did.
Future note for everyone's changing pads; bleed your brakes after. Lol
@McGuyver_3
I have done hundreds of brake jobs, and have never had to bleed a brake system after the job was done. You may want to see if you have a leak somewhere, or a damaged hose. It seems extremely odd to me that you would have air in the lines from just pushing the calipers back.
Bagmister
12-28-2015, 05:28 PM
I think the issue was that I was screwing the back right piston out instead of in by complete accident.
Must've gotten air in the line by opening the seal slightly.
So I did what was mentioned below.
@McGuyver_3
I have done hundreds of brake jobs, and have never had to bleed a brake system after the job was done. You may want to see if you have a leak somewhere, or a damaged hose. It seems extremely odd to me that you would have air in the lines from just pushing the calipers back.
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