anyone experienced with Moog end links?

[ptgrad2012]

Planning to buy new rear end links as it's been clunking for a while now after changing my rsb to an aftermarket one.
So far, it seems like the Moog K80867 is the way to go, but there seems to be two versions of it (with / without Allen Key hole at the end of the bolt).

all the posts out there seems to be about the older version, nothing about the new one (picture doesn't really show the end of bolt)

Just wondering if anyone here has experience with the new version?
my car is 2012 Mazda 3 sedan GX

Old version
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/mog-k80867.jpg?rep=False

new version
https://www.aftermarketsuspensionparts.com/prodimages/moog/moog-k80867/MOOG-moog-k80867-large-1.JPG

[Dynames]

I have them and they work as advertised. No issues.

I'd check your bushings before buying endlinks if clunking is the issue.

[ptgrad2012]

they were actually broken before (the zinc brackets) i had to buy another set of aluminum ones.
May I ask which ones do you have, the old or the new one?
and without the Allen key hole, was it difficult to install?

[nigvlb_]

Know a good few people running Moog endlinks on Mz3's, MS3's and other cars also. Haven't heard much bad about them.

[shift8]

they were actually broken before (the zinc brackets) i had to buy another set of aluminum ones.
May I ask which ones do you have, the old or the new one?
and without the Allen key hole, was it difficult to install?

Installation is trivial. You'll need 14mm and 17mm wrenches if I remember right, and I think it was 5mm or 6mm allen key (sorry did suspension recently and everything was 14 or 17mm nuts :))

It's simple though. Jack rear up, remove nuts from rear sway bar, remove nuts from the top and drop the whole thing down.

Reverse process to reinstall.

[ptgrad2012]

Installation is trivial. You'll need 14mm and 17mm wrenches if I remember right, and I think it was 5mm or 6mm allen key (sorry did suspension recently and everything was 14 or 17mm nuts :))

It's simple though. Jack rear up, remove nuts from rear sway bar, remove nuts from the top and drop the whole thing down.

Reverse process to reinstall.

I just got two of these https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001CA6L1O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
seems like they don't have the Allen key hole to hold down the bolt from spinning.

[js593]

After speaking with the Federal Mogul Canadian rep for my division, he said that the old style was removed due to the lack of sealing on the joint. Grease wouldn't hold up inside the joint properly and it was a real PITA to grease the upper joint.

I can confirm, these are amazing sway bar links, but i feel they lack in stability with the new style. They don't seem to be as bulky, therefor they wouldn't transfer all the weight properly when the sway-bar is really being used. (my guess is that they would break if being used under constant pressure)

Unfortunately these joints are the way they are going now. Grease less and sealed. Also, if you buy a moog product for an import, 99% chance its either built in Taiwan, or Indonesia. These are the MFG facilities for Moog Asia parts (made for all imports). They will meet Moog's certification and quality stamp, but i feel they arent really the same as the old ones.

All this being said, if you get the moog ones, shoot them with a coat of paint. Mine went rusted to shit after 3 weeks.

ptgrad2012

[Dynames]

I just got two of these https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001CA6L1O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
seems like they don't have the Allen key hole to hold down the bolt from spinning.

I ordered mine from rockauto and they are what you refer to as the 'old version'.

I used to get clunking all the time with my jbr rsb but with the Moog endlinks and the billet aluminum sway bar bushing brackets its been smooth sailing. The normal brackets are weak and can break like mine did so if the end links don't solve your problem I'd look to replace the bushings and brackets.