Does anyone have any tips for replacing struts

[LeonIRL]

I have a 2006 sport and I just bought these strut assemblies: ebay link (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/272368191938?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

Anyone have any tips for replacing the struts? My workshop manual hasn't arrived yet, does anyone know if the manual will give a detailed breakdown of the steps involved?

Thanks for your time.

[Reddie1337]

I have a 2006 sport and I just bought these strut assemblies: ebay link (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/272368191938?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

Anyone have any tips for replacing the struts? My workshop manual hasn't arrived yet, does anyone know if the manual will give a detailed breakdown of the steps involved?

Thanks for your time.

You're probably going to have a bad time getting the bottom of the strut separated from the spindle, but other than that, should be smooth sailing. The link kits may also be pretty rusty. Make sure to hit all the bolts with a penetrating lubricant. First step I take in doing stuff at work is spray any bolt that might have to come apart during the job, makes it WAY easier.


-Reddie

[LeonIRL]

I'll be sure to keep some WD40 handy. Thanks!

[Hyperion]

Use Seafoam lubricant. Not seafoam the engine cleaner as lube, they also make a lubricant, and it's probably the best one I've used. WD40is useless.

[Milan96]

Use Seafoam lubricant. Not seafoam the engine cleaner as lube, they also make a lubricant, and it's probably the best one I've used. WD40is useless.

Seafoams stuff is good but I've found a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid to be the best penetrating fluid by a long shot. A couple studies have actually been done on this showing how much better it is than just about every other penetrate fluid, plus it's also cheap to make a bunch of it.

[morganc]

The secret to separating the strut and knuckle is to get your car jack and a 2x4 about 16" long to jack up underneath the strut spring saddle. If you take all of the preload off of the strut, the knuckle pounds of effortlessly. Mazda (Ford's) design means that you have to try and separate an already bottomed out control arm and strut. It's dumb.




You're probably going to have a bad time getting the bottom of the strut separated from the spindle, but other than that, should be smooth sailing. The link kits may also be pretty rusty. Make sure to hit all the bolts with a penetrating lubricant. First step I take in doing stuff at work is spray any bolt that might have to come apart during the job, makes it WAY easier.


-Reddie

[LeonIRL]

Seafoams stuff is good but I've found a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid to be the best penetrating fluid by a long shot. A couple studies have actually been done on this showing how much better it is than just about every other penetrate fluid, plus it's also cheap to make a bunch of it.

I feel like this should come with some sort of disclaimer...

[LeonIRL]

The secret to separating the strut and knuckle is to get your car jack and a 2x4 about 16" long to jack up underneath the strut spring saddle. If you take all of the preload off of the strut, the knuckle pounds of effortlessly. Mazda (Ford's) design means that you have to try and separate an already bottomed out control arm and strut. It's dumb.

Thanks this is hopefully gonna make the process a lot easier, this is exactly the kind of thing I was looking for. Willing to bet even the workshop manual doesn't tell you this.

[morganc]

Yeah, the manual just says to beat away at it in the air. Be careful when you get right to the end of it popping out when you have it preloaded, it will want to pop out at you. Similarly on the way back in, you can gently jack underneath the ball joint (with a block of wood in between) and tap the side of the knuckle and the strut should make its way back in nicely. I lather the inside of the knuckle cup with anti seize before reassembly and have never had any troubles since then. Additionally, the paint on new struts causes an interference fit and some of it will chip off; using anti seize will keep them from rust welding.