How long should brakes last?

[johnnyh55]

My oem brakes on my 2007 GT lasted until 90 000km and I then installed aftermarket pads and rotors which were noisy so I decided to replace all 4 corners with OEM pads and rotors. That was in October 2014, now my car has a really bad vibration when braking from 90-100km/h. I think they should of lasted longer than that without warping? I am thinking maybe the local guy who installed the winter tires with his air impact warped the rotors last fall? I know at my last oil change at the mazda dealer, they told me that my right rear parking brake cable and caliper are starting to seize, maybe that could be it? If the vibration is coming from the brake pedal, how can I tell if it's the front or rear brakes that's causing it or if it's all four of them?

[Galaxy771]

I honestly doubt your mechanic warped your rotors when he impacted the wheels on. Get a brake service done or maybe take your brakes off and get some sort of lube or even anti seize on the side of the pads where they mate with the caliper and maybe a bit for the rotor where it attaches to the hub and see if that helps. As for the vibrations, check brake fluid level and see if your parking brake cable is seized. It could cause the pads to slightly be engaged to the rotor. Brake pad thickness can effect how you brake as well so make sure the pads are still in good shape.

Another thing to note is that your rotors don't have a "won't warp by this time" rating. Even hitting a bump wrong can warp your rotor or they can stay straight as an arrow forever.

[jeff7670]

The causes or your brakes warping are either you installed very cheap rotors or you brake very aggressively and frequently. Hopefully the OEM rotors I assume Mazda installed were genuine OEM. I have an 07 gt with 210 000km on it and the factory rear brakes....but mine is a highway driven manual trans.

[johnnyh55]

The causes or your brakes warping are either you installed very cheap rotors or you brake very aggressively and frequently. Hopefully the OEM rotors I assume Mazda installed were genuine OEM. I have an 07 gt with 210 000km on it and the factory rear brakes....but mine is a highway driven manual trans.

All mazda parts, rotors and pads and not the mazda value line that the dealer sells for cheaper, the good quality stuff. I dont drive aggressively or frequently but I hears that not torquing the wheels properly can contribute to this. I still take everything apart and have a look.

[js593]

You say you get vibrations at 90-100kph, is that when braking at that speed? Sounds like you have either bad tires, or something suspension is done.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

[Galaxy771]

I originally thought it might be a bad alignment but if it only happens when he brakes then it's possibly a wheel bearing I would think. Assuming it has nothing to do with the brakes that is.

[bunchi]

Vibrations while braking will be the rotors. If you hear a noise, sort of like a humming sound from the wheels when the car is moving, it's a symptom of bad wheel bearing. It gets louder as you go faster.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

[WHO]

Did you break-in the new pads properly?

Brake warping is a myth, it's simply not true in 99.9999 (and many more 9s)% of cases.
What is most likely actually the cause is uneven pad material transfer (deposition) between the pads and the discs, resulting in thickness variation, or run-out. This very small difference in the layer of pad material (not visible to the eye) on the disc is what is causing brake vibration.

The most effective way to avoid this is to strictly follow the pads' break-in procedure.

[johnnyh55]

Did you break-in the new pads properly?

Brake warping is a myth, it's simply not true in 99.9999 (and many more 9s)% of cases.
What is most likely actually the cause is uneven pad material transfer (deposition) between the pads and the discs, resulting in thickness variation, or run-out. This very small difference in the layer of pad material (not visible to the eye) on the disc is what is causing brake vibration.

The most effective way to avoid this is to strictly follow the pads' break-in procedure.

So I am trying to fix this issue before winter, the bedding procedure I followed once the brakes were installed was this one:

https://www.powerstop.com/brake-pad-break-in-procedure/

I see that the rotors that Mazda sell are not a coated rotor, I wonder if the aftermarket Wagner or Raybestos coated rotors would be better since they would withstand rust at the hub and inside the actual disk?